date stringlengths 10 10 | nb_tokens int64 60 629k | text_size int64 234 1.02M | content stringlengths 234 1.02M |
|---|---|---|---|
2018/08/29 | 414 | 1,557 | <issue_start>username_0: Since yesterday, I've been getting this error message and I have no idea what application it is. I checked all of my installed apps and can't see it.
Can you help me identify this icon?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/A2MAP.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: You must be using Xiaomi device with stock ROM. When you first switched on device, you created an online Mi account like Google account. Now this device is attached to that Mi account to avoid misuse in case of phone theft. This phenomenon is similar to [FRP](https://support.google.com/nexus/answer/6172890) implemented by [other OEMs](https://www.samsung.com/us/support/frp/) too.
Shown number `178...` is your [Mi account ID](https://account.xiaomi.com/pass/register). This error is appearing because device is unable to verify your identity online due to no internet access or something like that. Go to `Mi Account` in `Settings` and login again.
Be careful! If you are unable to login, you won't be able to access device on reboot.
See [this](https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/help/info-android-device-security-privacy-t3637290) to know a little bit about how FRP works.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You might have logged in from another device and changed the password of your google account. If it wasn't you, you can change the password again and then go to my accounts in Google and click the option log out from all devices and then sign-in in your required devices.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/08/30 | 537 | 1,913 | <issue_start>username_0: My phone is a non-rooted Motorola Moto G4 Play (XT1607). It is getting old, there's no space left, and I don't want to update the Android operating system. By mistake, I clicked "Update" and it downloaded the update, but it is not yet installed.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8gI7H.jpg)
Instead of proceeding to update, I want to delete it. I see a system app called `com.android.managedprovisioning`. Could this be it?<issue_comment>username_1: In my case, I clicked the progress bar and a pop-up message showed and made it possible to cancel. In deleting the update, try this: File Explorer>Downloaded\_rom>delete the update package there.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Follow these steps:
1-You can force close updater app:
Go to system-app-system updater then press "Force close"
2-uninstall updater app for the current user:
Note:You can restore updater app by doing "factory reset" to your phone?
```
pm uninstall -k --user 0 com.android.updater
```
**Note:**"com.android.updater" is package name of "updater" app in my phone,In your phone "updater" app may have another package name.You can find it using
[Package Name app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=vjayraj.packagename).
I hope this help you
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I used PD NDM (package disabler) app, downloaded from its own website and requests support on how to disable update to version 9 android pie.
Disable the following :
com.sec.android.soagent
com.wssyncmldm
If com.wssyncmldm is not found, please disable com.wssnps
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: On Moto Z2 Force, run this command from your PC when Android device is connected via USB in Photo transferring mode, USB debugging enabled.
`adb shell pm disable-user --user 0 com.motorola.ccc.ota`
You should not get anymore update popups.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/08/30 | 512 | 1,980 | <issue_start>username_0: I lack proper keywords to google efficiently to know how to manually remove an app. Basically I want to uninstall Chrome, but I also want to know deeper about Android system rather than rely on a third-party app like [NoBloat](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tvkdevelopment.nobloatfree&hl=en). I suspect one just need to delete `/data/app/com.android.chrome-2` folder, but I'm not sure if there is more to be removed too.
How to manually remove an app?<issue_comment>username_1: Root your phone to uninstall system apps. Those are pre-installed apps, it is integrated to the android system, so rooting is necessary if you want to remove them.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: To manually remove an app, you'll need to (manually) delete all of the following items:
* The app's package, usually in `/data/app/`. For system apps, delete `/system/app/`, `/system/priv-app/` or `/vendor/app/` instead, depending on where it resides. The folder and file name are not necessarily the same as package name for system/vendor apps, though.
* The app's installation information, `/data/system/packages.xml`. This is very complicated as an app may define resources that can be used by other apps. Be sure to remove all related keys and leave unrelated keys intact, or you can mess the files up.
Additionally, these items may be removed, but they'll be pruned if some or all items listed above are manually removed or found missing. The automatic pruning usually happens during system booting.
* The app's Dalvik cache, in `/data/dalvik-cache`, usually `.odex` or `.oat` files
* The app's data, in `/data/data/`
* The app's data in external storage, in `/sdcard/Android/data/`
* The app's "simplified information" in `/data/system/packages.list`, which will be pruned if the app is gone from `packages.xml`
Sometimes you'll see some log in `/data/system/uid_error.log` if the above items are pruned by Android.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2018/08/30 | 789 | 3,106 | <issue_start>username_0: There is busybox and there are terminal emulators that include *grep*, but they require root to run. It would be better if they could also run without root but with limited access. I only need to grep (read-only access) files in the user data storage.
### Is there a way to do *grep* text searching on Android without root?
There are many text editors already, but they only support ordinary text searching by jumping to the text position, which is not nearly as convenient as *grep*, where one gets the desired results in a list at one place.<issue_comment>username_1: You are mixing up two things:
1. Installing a binary like busybox system wide from within an app (which includes grep)
2. Running a binary
The default app based installers for busybox require root access to install busybox system-wide. This is true, however this is just because it is an app. Once the binary is installed you don't need root access.
Additionally even without root you can also install a busybox (or whatever) binary on your device:
1. You need to activate Android Debug Bridge (adb)
2. Copy the binary onto your phone (if it is not already there): `adb push busybox /sdcard/`
3. Copy the binary from the sdcard section (where it can't be executed) to different directory like `/data/local` or `/data/local/tmp`: `adb shell "cat /sdcard/busybox > /data/local/busybox`".
4. Then make it executable using `adb shell chmod 0555 /data/local/busybox`
Now you can execute it using its full path from within a terminal app or inside `adb shell`:
`/data/local/busybox grep ...`.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: If you are using Android Lollipop or above, install [Termux](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.termux&hl=en_IN), install grep (if not already installed) by typing `apt install grep`, give Storage permission to Termux from Settings app so that Internal Storage can be accessed. And that's it. Enjoy your grep. You can also install busybox the same way in Termux (it appears to come installed with Termux per user iBug) and use its utilities. Installation and usage doesn't require elevated privileges.
If you are using Android version before Lollipop, username_1's [answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/200996/96277) suggests a good way but some steps can be eliminated. Simply fetch the Android binary compatible with your processor from [here](https://github.com/Magisk-Modules-Repo/Busybox-Installer), rename it to busybox and push it into Android using [adb](/questions/tagged/adb "show questions tagged 'adb'") as:
```
adb push busybox /data/local/tmp/ # don't push it into /sdcard/ as it is both unnecessary and removes executable bit from the binary which you cannot add without having busybox's or toybox'x chmod utility.
```
You can now use busybox. You would want to setup an alias or change ENVIRONMENT variable of your shell accordingly to map that file.
Alternatiely, while I have not tried them, some grep based apps are available in Play Store and can be found [here](https://play.google.com/store/search?q=grep&c=apps).
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/08/30 | 819 | 2,991 | <issue_start>username_0: Using TWRP, I just installed new ROM (ResurrectionRemix-M-v5.7.4-20160922-libra) and OpenGApps (open\_gapps-arm64-6.0-pico-20180830) on my *Xiaomi Readmi 4c.* Both of them were flashed successfully (or at least that's what the twrp said :D), there was no error or anything.
Then I went to "reboot system" and it returned back to the TWRP menu. I cannot boot into the newly flashed ROM.
Please help me solve this problem.
Thanks<issue_comment>username_1: You are mixing up two things:
1. Installing a binary like busybox system wide from within an app (which includes grep)
2. Running a binary
The default app based installers for busybox require root access to install busybox system-wide. This is true, however this is just because it is an app. Once the binary is installed you don't need root access.
Additionally even without root you can also install a busybox (or whatever) binary on your device:
1. You need to activate Android Debug Bridge (adb)
2. Copy the binary onto your phone (if it is not already there): `adb push busybox /sdcard/`
3. Copy the binary from the sdcard section (where it can't be executed) to different directory like `/data/local` or `/data/local/tmp`: `adb shell "cat /sdcard/busybox > /data/local/busybox`".
4. Then make it executable using `adb shell chmod 0555 /data/local/busybox`
Now you can execute it using its full path from within a terminal app or inside `adb shell`:
`/data/local/busybox grep ...`.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: If you are using Android Lollipop or above, install [Termux](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.termux&hl=en_IN), install grep (if not already installed) by typing `apt install grep`, give Storage permission to Termux from Settings app so that Internal Storage can be accessed. And that's it. Enjoy your grep. You can also install busybox the same way in Termux (it appears to come installed with Termux per user iBug) and use its utilities. Installation and usage doesn't require elevated privileges.
If you are using Android version before Lollipop, username_1's [answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/200996/96277) suggests a good way but some steps can be eliminated. Simply fetch the Android binary compatible with your processor from [here](https://github.com/Magisk-Modules-Repo/Busybox-Installer), rename it to busybox and push it into Android using [adb](/questions/tagged/adb "show questions tagged 'adb'") as:
```
adb push busybox /data/local/tmp/ # don't push it into /sdcard/ as it is both unnecessary and removes executable bit from the binary which you cannot add without having busybox's or toybox'x chmod utility.
```
You can now use busybox. You would want to setup an alias or change ENVIRONMENT variable of your shell accordingly to map that file.
Alternatiely, while I have not tried them, some grep based apps are available in Play Store and can be found [here](https://play.google.com/store/search?q=grep&c=apps).
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/08/31 | 3,004 | 10,174 | <issue_start>username_0: Is it possible to create a Wi-Fi hotspot from an Android device using its Wi-Fi connection rather than Cellular data?
Without the help of any third-party application (Like Netshare), by changing some code in setting application?
**Note:**
I'm having AOSP 7.0 so there is no question of the root device.<issue_comment>username_1: You can not simply do it without root. But you can use USB and BlueTooth tethering using a Wi-Fi network. I would suggest using BlueTooth tethering if you want to share internet on other phones because it is a mess to do all that to use Wi-Fi and hotspot at same time.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: WI-FI REPEATER MODE ON ANDROID
==============================
I don't know of any straight forward tool other than Android apps (which use Wi-Fi Direct) that will let use wi-fi and hotspot at the same time. Neither it's a standard feature introduced in custom ROM's so far (AFAIK). However you can do this manually if you are comfortable with commandline usage. **But it's NOT possible without root.**
WHAT'S NEEDED
=============
* Rooted device
* Device must support [nl80211 driver](https://wireless.wiki.kernel.org/en/developers/documentation/nl80211)
All newer devices with Qualcomm MSM chipset support this AFAIK e.g. Xiaomi's Redmi Note 4 (mido) built with [MSM8953](https://www.qualcomm.com/products/snapdragon/processors/625).
Kernel must also support this driver. To confirm:
```
~# zcat /proc/config.gz | grep CONFIG_CFG80211
CONFIG_CFG80211=y
~# lshw | grep wireless=
configuration: broadcast=yes driver=wcnss_wlan multicast=yes wireless=Qcom:802.11n
```
* Device must support `managed` mode and `AP` mode at the same time.
```
~# iw phy | grep -iA2 'valid interface combinations'
valid interface combinations:
* #{ managed } <= 3, #{ IBSS, AP } <= 1, #{ P2P-client, P2P-GO } <= 1,
total <= 3, #channels <= 1
```
This means that your wireless chip supports creating at maximum 3 interfaces, one of which can be in `AP` mode, with others being in `managed` or `P2P` mode, and at maximum 1 [channel](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels) is supported. If channels value is 2, you can operate both interfaces on different channels. However using same channel is recommended to avoid interference.
Standard wi-fi interface on Android devices (usually `wlan0`) is always run in `managed` mode. We are going to create a virtual wireless interface to be run in `AP` mode.
* Linux tools: `iw`, `ip`, `iptables`, `hostapd`, `dnsmasq` etc.
You can also use `wpa_supplicant` in place of `hostapd` with slightly different configuration.
Usually these binaries come bundled with Android. However there are modifications by Google and vendors to make these tools fit for Android needs. So they may not behave as standard Linux tools and in rare cases you might need to compile them from source.
Wireless tools should be newer enough to have support for driver `nl80211`.
* Terminal emulator (Termux is a good one)
STEPS:
======
For ease of use, I have summarized all steps in a shell script with brief explanation. You can put this on your $PATH e.g. `/system/bin/android_ap` and execute it directly: `~# android_ap start`. A [Custom Quick Settings](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.quinny898.app.customquicksettings) Tile can also be [created](https://code.tutsplus.com/tutorials/create-a-custom-quick-settings-tile-for-android--cms-30318) for ease of use.
```
#!/system/bin/sh
set -e
#set -x
[ "$(id -u)" != 0 ] && echo 'Not running as root!' && exit
SSID=MyAP # set this to your desired string (avoid spaces and non-ascii characters)
PASSCODE=<PASSWORD> # set this to your desired string (8 to 63 characters)
WIFI_INTERFACE=wlan0 # set this according to your device (lshw | grep -A10 Wireless | grep 'logical name')
SUBNET=192.168.42 # must be different than WIFI_INTERFACE
AP_INTERFACE=${WIFI_INTERFACE}-AP
IP=${SUBNET}.1
DIR=/data/local/tmp/$AP_INTERFACE
USAGE()
{
echo 'Usage:'
printf '\t%s\n' "$(basename "$0") start|stop"
exit
}
STOP() {
# hope there are no other instances of same daemons
pkill -15 hostapd dnsmasq
# remove iptables rules
iptables -D INPUT -i $AP_INTERFACE -p udp -m udp --dport 67 -j ACCEPT
iptables -t nat -D POSTROUTING -s ${SUBNET}.0/24 ! -o $AP_INTERFACE -j MASQUERADE
iptables -D FORWARD -i $AP_INTERFACE -s ${IP}/24 -j ACCEPT
iptables -D FORWARD -i $WIFI_INTERFACE -d ${SUBNET}.0/24 -j ACCEPT
# delete AP interface
ip link show | grep "${AP_INTERFACE}:" && iw $AP_INTERFACE del
rm -rf $DIR
} >/dev/null 2>&1
CHECKS()
{
for binary in iw ip iptables hostapd dnsmasq; do
which $binary >/dev/null && continue
exit
done
# this check is necessary if need to use single channel
if iw dev $WIFI_INTERFACE link | grep -q '^Not connected'
then
echo 'First connect to Wi-Fi for internet sharing.'
exit
fi
if ! iw phy | grep -iqE '{.*managed.*AP.*}' && ! iw phy | grep -iqE '{.*AP.*managed.*}'
then
echo 'AP mode not supported.'
exit
fi
}
CREATE_AP()
{
if ! iw dev $WIFI_INTERFACE interface add $AP_INTERFACE type __ap
then
echo "Couldn't create AP." # :(
exit
fi
}
FIND_CHANNEL()
{
# find what channel wi-fi is using
CHANNEL="$(iw $WIFI_INTERFACE scan | grep -C5 "$(iw $WIFI_INTERFACE link | grep SSID | cut -d: -f2-)" | grep -i channel | tail -c3)"
if [ -z "$CHANNEL" ]
then
echo "Couldn't find channel info. Are you are connected to Wi-Fi?"
STOP
exit
fi
# if more than 1 channels are supported, use any frequency
[ ! -z "$CHANNEL" ] || CHANNEL=11
}
ADD_IP_ROUTE()
{
# activate the interface and add IP
ip link set up dev $AP_INTERFACE
ip addr add ${IP}/24 broadcast ${SUBNET}.255 dev $AP_INTERFACE
# routing table 97 needs to be put necessarily on Android
# because in main table, route for $WIFI_INTERFACE takes priority (ip route show)
# and all traffic goes there ignoring $AP_INTERFACE
ip route add ${SUBNET}.0/24 dev $AP_INTERFACE table 97
}
HOSTAPD_CONFIG()
{
mkdir -p "$DIR"
cat <<-EOF >$DIR/hostapd.conf
# network name
ssid=$SSID
# network interface to listen on
interface=$AP_INTERFACE
# wi-fi driver
driver=nl80211
# WLAN channel to use
channel=$CHANNEL
# ser operation mode, what frequency to use
hw_mode=g
# enforce Wireless Protected Access (WPA)
wpa=2
# passphrase to use for protected access
wpa_passphrase=$PASSCODE
# WPA protocol
wpa_key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
EOF
# you can tune other parameters such as mtu, beacon_int, ieee80211n, wowlan_triggers (if supported)
# for better performace and options such as *_pairwise for better security
}
INTERNET_SHARE()
{
# allow IP forwarding
echo 1 >/proc/sys/net/ipv4/ip_forward
# route and allow forwrding through firewall
iptables -t nat -I POSTROUTING -s ${SUBNET}.0/24 ! -o $AP_INTERFACE -j MASQUERADE
iptables -I FORWARD -i $AP_INTERFACE -s ${IP}/24 -j ACCEPT
iptables -I FORWARD -i $WIFI_INTERFACE -d ${SUBNET}.0/24 -j ACCEPT
}
DHCP_SERVER()
{
# configuration
cat <<-EOF >$DIR/dnsmasq.conf
# we dont want DNS server, only DHCP
port=0
# only listen on AP interface
interface=$AP_INTERFACE
listen-address=$IP
#bind-interfaces
# range of IPs to make available to wlan devices andwhen to renew IP
dhcp-range=$IP,${SUBNET}.254,24h
# where to save leases
dhcp-leasefile=$DIR/dnsmasq.leases
# set default gateway
dhcp-option-force=option:router,$IP
# add OpenDNS servers for DNS lookup to announce
dhcp-option-force=option:dns-server,208.67.220.220,208.67.222.222
#dhcp-option-force=option:mtu,1500
# respond to a client who is requesting from a different IP broadcast subnet
# or requesting an out of range / occupied IP
# or requesting an IP from expired lease of previous sessions
# or obtained from some other server which is offline now
dhcp-authoritative
# don't look for any hosts file and resolv file
no-hosts
no-resolv
EOF
# open listening port
iptables -I INPUT -i $AP_INTERFACE -p udp -m udp --dport 67 -j ACCEPT
# start dhcp server
dnsmasq -C $DIR/dnsmasq.conf
}
if [ "$1" = stop ]
then
STOP || true
exit
fi
[ "$1" = start ] || USAGE
# basic check
CHECKS
# stop running instances
STOP || true
# create virtual wireless interface
CREATE_AP
# find channed already used ny wi-fi
FIND_CHANNEL
# configre newly created interface
ADD_IP_ROUTE
# configure acces point daemon
HOSTAPD_CONFIG
# start hostapd
hostapd -B $DIR/hostapd.conf
# share internet from Wi-Fi to AP
INTERNET_SHARE
# run a dhcp server to assign IP's dynamically
# otherwise assign a static IP to connected device in subnet range (2 to 254)
DHCP_SERVER
echo Done.
```
SOURCES:
--------
* [Linux Wireless Modes](https://wireless.wiki.kernel.org/en/users/documentation/modes)
* [Software Access Point](https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/software_access_point)
* [create\_ap](https://github.com/oblique/create_ap)
* [Linux](http://linux-ip.net/html/routing-tables.html) and [Android](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/netd/+/master/server/RouteController.cpp) routing tables
* [hostapd.conf](https://w1.fi/cgit/hostap/plain/hostapd/hostapd.conf)
* [dnsmasq.conf](https://github.com/imp/dnsmasq/blob/master/dnsmasq.conf)
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: There is an app called [VPN Hopspot - Tethering/Wi-Fi repeater](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=be.mygod.vpnhotspot) on Google Play, it's open sourced on GitHub at [here](https://github.com/Mygod/VPNHotspot). Should work on most recent android devices powered by snapdragon SoC (root required).
Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated with this app.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/09/01 | 2,990 | 10,082 | <issue_start>username_0: 
I am talking to my kid thru WeChat, so I am familiar with the WeChat logo message notification. But I don't know what that S in a square logo is.
What application is that?<issue_comment>username_1: You can not simply do it without root. But you can use USB and BlueTooth tethering using a Wi-Fi network. I would suggest using BlueTooth tethering if you want to share internet on other phones because it is a mess to do all that to use Wi-Fi and hotspot at same time.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: WI-FI REPEATER MODE ON ANDROID
==============================
I don't know of any straight forward tool other than Android apps (which use Wi-Fi Direct) that will let use wi-fi and hotspot at the same time. Neither it's a standard feature introduced in custom ROM's so far (AFAIK). However you can do this manually if you are comfortable with commandline usage. **But it's NOT possible without root.**
WHAT'S NEEDED
=============
* Rooted device
* Device must support [nl80211 driver](https://wireless.wiki.kernel.org/en/developers/documentation/nl80211)
All newer devices with Qualcomm MSM chipset support this AFAIK e.g. Xiaomi's Redmi Note 4 (mido) built with [MSM8953](https://www.qualcomm.com/products/snapdragon/processors/625).
Kernel must also support this driver. To confirm:
```
~# zcat /proc/config.gz | grep CONFIG_CFG80211
CONFIG_CFG80211=y
~# lshw | grep wireless=
configuration: broadcast=yes driver=wcnss_wlan multicast=yes wireless=Qcom:802.11n
```
* Device must support `managed` mode and `AP` mode at the same time.
```
~# iw phy | grep -iA2 'valid interface combinations'
valid interface combinations:
* #{ managed } <= 3, #{ IBSS, AP } <= 1, #{ P2P-client, P2P-GO } <= 1,
total <= 3, #channels <= 1
```
This means that your wireless chip supports creating at maximum 3 interfaces, one of which can be in `AP` mode, with others being in `managed` or `P2P` mode, and at maximum 1 [channel](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels) is supported. If channels value is 2, you can operate both interfaces on different channels. However using same channel is recommended to avoid interference.
Standard wi-fi interface on Android devices (usually `wlan0`) is always run in `managed` mode. We are going to create a virtual wireless interface to be run in `AP` mode.
* Linux tools: `iw`, `ip`, `iptables`, `hostapd`, `dnsmasq` etc.
You can also use `wpa_supplicant` in place of `hostapd` with slightly different configuration.
Usually these binaries come bundled with Android. However there are modifications by Google and vendors to make these tools fit for Android needs. So they may not behave as standard Linux tools and in rare cases you might need to compile them from source.
Wireless tools should be newer enough to have support for driver `nl80211`.
* Terminal emulator (Termux is a good one)
STEPS:
======
For ease of use, I have summarized all steps in a shell script with brief explanation. You can put this on your $PATH e.g. `/system/bin/android_ap` and execute it directly: `~# android_ap start`. A [Custom Quick Settings](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.quinny898.app.customquicksettings) Tile can also be [created](https://code.tutsplus.com/tutorials/create-a-custom-quick-settings-tile-for-android--cms-30318) for ease of use.
```
#!/system/bin/sh
set -e
#set -x
[ "$(id -u)" != 0 ] && echo 'Not running as root!' && exit
SSID=MyAP # set this to your desired string (avoid spaces and non-ascii characters)
PASSCODE=<PASSWORD> # set this to your desired string (8 to 63 characters)
WIFI_INTERFACE=wlan0 # set this according to your device (lshw | grep -A10 Wireless | grep 'logical name')
SUBNET=192.168.42 # must be different than WIFI_INTERFACE
AP_INTERFACE=${WIFI_INTERFACE}-AP
IP=${SUBNET}.1
DIR=/data/local/tmp/$AP_INTERFACE
USAGE()
{
echo 'Usage:'
printf '\t%s\n' "$(basename "$0") start|stop"
exit
}
STOP() {
# hope there are no other instances of same daemons
pkill -15 hostapd dnsmasq
# remove iptables rules
iptables -D INPUT -i $AP_INTERFACE -p udp -m udp --dport 67 -j ACCEPT
iptables -t nat -D POSTROUTING -s ${SUBNET}.0/24 ! -o $AP_INTERFACE -j MASQUERADE
iptables -D FORWARD -i $AP_INTERFACE -s ${IP}/24 -j ACCEPT
iptables -D FORWARD -i $WIFI_INTERFACE -d ${SUBNET}.0/24 -j ACCEPT
# delete AP interface
ip link show | grep "${AP_INTERFACE}:" && iw $AP_INTERFACE del
rm -rf $DIR
} >/dev/null 2>&1
CHECKS()
{
for binary in iw ip iptables hostapd dnsmasq; do
which $binary >/dev/null && continue
exit
done
# this check is necessary if need to use single channel
if iw dev $WIFI_INTERFACE link | grep -q '^Not connected'
then
echo 'First connect to Wi-Fi for internet sharing.'
exit
fi
if ! iw phy | grep -iqE '{.*managed.*AP.*}' && ! iw phy | grep -iqE '{.*AP.*managed.*}'
then
echo 'AP mode not supported.'
exit
fi
}
CREATE_AP()
{
if ! iw dev $WIFI_INTERFACE interface add $AP_INTERFACE type __ap
then
echo "Couldn't create AP." # :(
exit
fi
}
FIND_CHANNEL()
{
# find what channel wi-fi is using
CHANNEL="$(iw $WIFI_INTERFACE scan | grep -C5 "$(iw $WIFI_INTERFACE link | grep SSID | cut -d: -f2-)" | grep -i channel | tail -c3)"
if [ -z "$CHANNEL" ]
then
echo "Couldn't find channel info. Are you are connected to Wi-Fi?"
STOP
exit
fi
# if more than 1 channels are supported, use any frequency
[ ! -z "$CHANNEL" ] || CHANNEL=11
}
ADD_IP_ROUTE()
{
# activate the interface and add IP
ip link set up dev $AP_INTERFACE
ip addr add ${IP}/24 broadcast ${SUBNET}.255 dev $AP_INTERFACE
# routing table 97 needs to be put necessarily on Android
# because in main table, route for $WIFI_INTERFACE takes priority (ip route show)
# and all traffic goes there ignoring $AP_INTERFACE
ip route add ${SUBNET}.0/24 dev $AP_INTERFACE table 97
}
HOSTAPD_CONFIG()
{
mkdir -p "$DIR"
cat <<-EOF >$DIR/hostapd.conf
# network name
ssid=$SSID
# network interface to listen on
interface=$AP_INTERFACE
# wi-fi driver
driver=nl80211
# WLAN channel to use
channel=$CHANNEL
# ser operation mode, what frequency to use
hw_mode=g
# enforce Wireless Protected Access (WPA)
wpa=2
# passphrase to use for protected access
wpa_passphrase=$<PASSWORD>CODE
# WPA protocol
wpa_key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
EOF
# you can tune other parameters such as mtu, beacon_int, ieee80211n, wowlan_triggers (if supported)
# for better performace and options such as *_pairwise for better security
}
INTERNET_SHARE()
{
# allow IP forwarding
echo 1 >/proc/sys/net/ipv4/ip_forward
# route and allow forwrding through firewall
iptables -t nat -I POSTROUTING -s ${SUBNET}.0/24 ! -o $AP_INTERFACE -j MASQUERADE
iptables -I FORWARD -i $AP_INTERFACE -s ${IP}/24 -j ACCEPT
iptables -I FORWARD -i $WIFI_INTERFACE -d ${SUBNET}.0/24 -j ACCEPT
}
DHCP_SERVER()
{
# configuration
cat <<-EOF >$DIR/dnsmasq.conf
# we dont want DNS server, only DHCP
port=0
# only listen on AP interface
interface=$AP_INTERFACE
listen-address=$IP
#bind-interfaces
# range of IPs to make available to wlan devices andwhen to renew IP
dhcp-range=$IP,${SUBNET}.254,24h
# where to save leases
dhcp-leasefile=$DIR/dnsmasq.leases
# set default gateway
dhcp-option-force=option:router,$IP
# add OpenDNS servers for DNS lookup to announce
dhcp-option-force=option:dns-server,208.67.220.220,208.67.222.222
#dhcp-option-force=option:mtu,1500
# respond to a client who is requesting from a different IP broadcast subnet
# or requesting an out of range / occupied IP
# or requesting an IP from expired lease of previous sessions
# or obtained from some other server which is offline now
dhcp-authoritative
# don't look for any hosts file and resolv file
no-hosts
no-resolv
EOF
# open listening port
iptables -I INPUT -i $AP_INTERFACE -p udp -m udp --dport 67 -j ACCEPT
# start dhcp server
dnsmasq -C $DIR/dnsmasq.conf
}
if [ "$1" = stop ]
then
STOP || true
exit
fi
[ "$1" = start ] || USAGE
# basic check
CHECKS
# stop running instances
STOP || true
# create virtual wireless interface
CREATE_AP
# find channed already used ny wi-fi
FIND_CHANNEL
# configre newly created interface
ADD_IP_ROUTE
# configure acces point daemon
HOSTAPD_CONFIG
# start hostapd
hostapd -B $DIR/hostapd.conf
# share internet from Wi-Fi to AP
INTERNET_SHARE
# run a dhcp server to assign IP's dynamically
# otherwise assign a static IP to connected device in subnet range (2 to 254)
DHCP_SERVER
echo Done.
```
SOURCES:
--------
* [Linux Wireless Modes](https://wireless.wiki.kernel.org/en/users/documentation/modes)
* [Software Access Point](https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/software_access_point)
* [create\_ap](https://github.com/oblique/create_ap)
* [Linux](http://linux-ip.net/html/routing-tables.html) and [Android](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/netd/+/master/server/RouteController.cpp) routing tables
* [hostapd.conf](https://w1.fi/cgit/hostap/plain/hostapd/hostapd.conf)
* [dnsmasq.conf](https://github.com/imp/dnsmasq/blob/master/dnsmasq.conf)
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: There is an app called [VPN Hopspot - Tethering/Wi-Fi repeater](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=be.mygod.vpnhotspot) on Google Play, it's open sourced on GitHub at [here](https://github.com/Mygod/VPNHotspot). Should work on most recent android devices powered by snapdragon SoC (root required).
Disclaimer: I'm not affiliated with this app.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/09/02 | 581 | 2,196 | <issue_start>username_0: I tried running a Python script in a terminal emulator (app) with `./script.py` and I get an error saying "permission denied". It is to run a Twitter bot even if I close the app.
So, I googled how to do this and it said I have to download a file called `python.sh`, but their link is down so I can't download it. When I google the file, I only get results for how to load `.sh` files in Python.
How I can do this?<issue_comment>username_1: You could use [UserLAnd](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=tech.ula), [GNURoot Debian](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gnuroot.debian), or [Termux](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.termux). Termux is probably the most lightweight, and also has Swipe keyboard support (have to swipe the entire input to the side to access it), and you can enable an extended keyboard that pops up over whatever keyboard you use to access arrows, Tab, Ctrl, etc. UserLAnd also has the extended keyboard and the same Swipe support, and runs a full version of Linux in a chroot environment so you can have root access using sudo or the root user.
Using Termux & UserLAnd on an unrootable Android and both are amazing. rsync is the greatest thing ever to keep project changes up to date because AFAIK it's not possible to edit the data stored in either of their filesystems directly using an Android app, but can be done using vi/vim/nano/etc inside of Termux or in UserLAnd's session (have to connect to it through SSH or VNC).
Just make sure to follow the suggestions during UserLAnd setup and grab [ConnectBot](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.connectbot) and/or [bVNC](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.iiordanov.freebVNC) -- those are currently the only supported apps to connect to it. Also, while it claims to be able to setup for a single app I have not seen any directions for that, and have no idea how it would be possible as the UI doesn't seem to have anyway to do so.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Your file permissions are not appropriate. Change it using `chmod +x path_to_file` and then run it using `file_name.py`.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/09/02 | 688 | 2,817 | <issue_start>username_0: My phone is kept always on vibrate mode. When the screen is on and I get an SMS I can see the pop up notification and that's fine. Problem is when the screen is off - SMS sender name is read out aloud " Message from [sender name]" preceded by two long vibrations
I find this highly annoying sometimes and found no setting to mute this ( to replicate screen on behavior). I don't want to activate DND mode because I want to know that I have a text message waiting to be read via vibrate buzz
Surprised to see that no one complains of this on the net so obviously no solution ( Imagine your phone is on vibrate in a meeting but your phone announces to the world message from AXAIRNF or some embarrassing contact name) I tried automation, some Xposed / Magisk modules but none worked
**Edit** These additional attempts didn't help
1. Switching off the notification of SMS app
2. Trying alternate apps such as Textra etc
3. Putting the device on low ringer / notification volume when screen is off
4. Suspecting Text-to-Speech to be the culprit, killed that service when screen is off - no luck
**Any solutions # including rooted means?**
Mia1 stock 8.1 rooted with Magisk and Xposed (had same problem on 8.0 too). [Stock Messaging app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.messaging)
---
# If you want to suggest automating, please stick to MacroDroid (don't want to add another automation app just for this). Gravity Box doesn't help. If your solution involves an alternate messaging app, it should be good at blocking spam SMS / be able to control reading of sender name(Textra already tried)<issue_comment>username_1: Some phones have a drive mode where the notifications are spoken. You might have a shortcut button from the pull down settings or go into the talkback settings and it should be near the bottom.
If not a drive mode then go into talk back settings , tap verbosity, then unselect speak when screen is off.
See if that is the answer.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: It had nothing to do with the device settings (but OS bug )
It was a macro misbehaving and reading out for *any* contact rather than chosen contacts (since the device is always on vibrate wanted audio alert for text messages from chosen few).I never suspected this since a similar macro for incoming calls was working fine
**Edit:** Shared logs with the developer who confirmed that it is an **OS bug**
>
> My code in simple terms does a look up on the number in your contacts database and then when it matches it requests the ContactsContract.PhoneLookup.DISPLAY\_NAME....your device OS has some kind of weird issue where it doesn't return a sensible name.
>
>
>
and hence it was getting triggered universally for any contact
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2018/09/03 | 545 | 2,116 | <issue_start>username_0: In previous versions of Android, in-app browsing was facilitated using WebView [(1)](https://developer.chrome.com/multidevice/webview/overview). Disabling in-app browsing system-wide could be achieved by uninstalling the WebView app [(2)](https://www.quora.com/How-do-I-turn-off-Android-WebView-in-apps).
Recently, an in-app version of Chrome, called Custom Tabs, took over the WebView app [(3,](https://developer.chrome.com/multidevice/android/customtabs) [4)](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/179613/is-it-better-to-use-android-system-webview-when-not-using-chrome-as-default-brow/179615). This meant the previous trick no longer worked.
How to disable in-app browsing has already been discussed previously [(5)](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/145745/prevent-apps-opening-links-in-chrome-custom-tabs-i-e-open-in-default-browser-d). However, the answers included uninstalling Chrome and, thereby, uninstalling Custom Tabs.
Is there a way to keep Chrome as the default browser, while also disabling in-app browsing? Clicking on links in certain apps would, then, result in the full Chrome app opening and rendering the webpage.<issue_comment>username_1: You need to know this before disabling all in-app browsing,
In-app browsing is a required component by built-in requirements in order for web functions to render properly, as described by Google:
Android WebView is a system component powered by Chrome that allows Android apps to display web content. This component is pre-installed on your device and should be kept up to date to ensure you have the latest security updates and other bug fixes.
So there may be a chance that if you disabled in-app browsing and the Android System WebView, while Chrome as the default web browser, some web components may start failing to function properly.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Considering you click the 3 dot, then "open in chrome" and it has the exact scroll position you were at... Yeh I think it's using chrome 1:1 with a modified ui
From the Google app, click more, general, open in app
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/09/03 | 275 | 1,182 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm considering buying the Oppo F9 Pro, which has a dual sim GSM slot. I currently have consumer cellular service with a nano GSM sim card. would I be able to import the Indian phone and use it here without any problems?<issue_comment>username_1: You need to know this before disabling all in-app browsing,
In-app browsing is a required component by built-in requirements in order for web functions to render properly, as described by Google:
Android WebView is a system component powered by Chrome that allows Android apps to display web content. This component is pre-installed on your device and should be kept up to date to ensure you have the latest security updates and other bug fixes.
So there may be a chance that if you disabled in-app browsing and the Android System WebView, while Chrome as the default web browser, some web components may start failing to function properly.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Considering you click the 3 dot, then "open in chrome" and it has the exact scroll position you were at... Yeh I think it's using chrome 1:1 with a modified ui
From the Google app, click more, general, open in app
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/09/05 | 437 | 1,558 | <issue_start>username_0: By default, many apps open links inside the app using an in-app browser. On Android, this is a version of Chrome, called Chrome Custom Tabs, optimised for in-app use [(1)](https://developer.chrome.com/multidevice/android/customtabs).
When in-app browsing is disabled, clicking a link results in the default browser app opening and rendering the webpage.
To disable in-app browsing on the Facebook app, users can go to Setting > Media to find a checkbox related to this behaviour [(2)](https://lifehacker.com/disable-facebooks-in-app-browser-to-use-your-preferred-1658842307).
How can in-app browsing be disabled in the Facebook Lite app? This light version does not seem to include the same checkbox as the regular Facebook app.<issue_comment>username_1: The [new update](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.facebook.lite&hl=en) (Version 172.16.31.10.117) now open links directly opened in the browser instead of in-app.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I have a solution for disabling Facebook Lite's in-app browser.
What you need is a rooted smartphone and Lucky Patcher and that's it.
1. Open Lucky Patcher.
2. Click/tap Facebook Lite.
3. Click/tap "Menu of patches".
4. Select "Change the app's components".
5. Select "Disable components (pm disable method)".
6. Scroll down and disable
* com.facebook.lite.inappbrowser.common.BrowserLiteProxyActivty
* com.facebook.browser.lite.BrowserLiteInMainProcessactivity
7. Click apply then close.
8. Launch Facebook Lite and open any link and see magic.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/09/06 | 433 | 1,584 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to fix a phone (LG G3 Stylus) that has been badly injured, so now the touchsreen doesn't work, and the only button that works is the volume-up one.
I need to backup some stuff (notes, calendar, contacts, and some apps data), so I was trying to add a Google account to sync the data.
Now I was going to do this by using an OTG cable, so I bought one (USB 3.0 A to USB C that has a USB C to micro usb adapter) to connect a mouse, but it didn't work.
Now I found [this solution](https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2786395) to control the phone with a Windows PC but it needs USB debugging activated.
Now that's the problem. How do I activate USB Debugging without the touchscreen. I read that I could get into recovery mode, but the power button doesn't work. What can I do?
EDIT 1: I found another app that allows me to control the device: Vysor. Now I still require USB Debugging enabled.
Now I tested the other OTG cable (usb 2.0) and it didn't work either. But I found something: USB debugging was already turned on, but for some reason I can't find it when I run adb devices.
Anyways there are some random touches so I am waiting until the screen unlocks.<issue_comment>username_1: Actually, we can Enable USB Debugging on Android with Broken Screen by OTG Adapter and USB Mouse or by Using ADB Commands and Fastboot.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: If you aren't seeing it in adb the try killing the adb server first with
```
adb kill-server
```
If still nothing, you may be missing adb keys files.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/09/06 | 1,586 | 5,737 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm looking for a method to automatically backup my internal storage from my Nexus 6 directly to my PC (not cloud), using WiFi, but I haven't really found a solution for it. I see most solutions use the cloud, but I hate using the cloud. I would like to have it done automatically, on a schedule so I don't ever have to bother remembering. Basically I'm trying to do a PC-like backup (like macrium reflect), but for an Android phone.
Running Nexus 6 with Pure Nexus ROM on Windows 7 Professional 64-bit<issue_comment>username_1: There is a way but it doesn't "automatically" sends/uploads your data to your PC. Using an FTP server in the [Solid Explorer](https://solid-explorer-file-manager.en.uptodown.com/android). Then if your cellphone and PC is connected to the same WIFI then you can access your files on the phone and downloading it in the PC. [This is how you do it](https://www.trishtech.com/2016/10/using-the-ftp-server-built-inside-solid-explorer-for-android/).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You could do this in a couple of ways, one of which I use and have tested successfully and the other one equally looks promising and effective. Namely these are:
1. SyncMe Wireless
2. Rsync server and client combo (requires an android sync client and PC (server side) client.
I will try to describe how these methods solve your situation
---
1. Using **[SyncMe Wireless](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bv.wifisync&hl=en)** application
>
> SyncMe is an excellent tool to copy, move, sync and backup your mp3,
> pictures and documents over **Wi-Fi**, (USB tethering, cellular VPN or
> wired network) to your computer or NAS device.
>
>
>
The biggest advantage of this tool is that nothing to be installed
on your computer. Additionally you can sync automatically as long the device is connected to the Wi-Fi by creating automated jobs. The only downside perhaps, is that it currently supports `SMB1` protocol which has been associated with some vulnerabilites and disabled in recent versions of Windows (but won't be much of a big problem since you use Windows 7)
**Prerequisites**
* **Sharing must be enabled on your computer**, the simplest way to do this on Windows is to right click the folder you wish to synchronize (the **backup directory**) select Share With and go with the instructions.
**Instructions**
* The app provides a step-step method of setting a scheduled backup and you simply need to follow the on-screen instructions:
* After download and installation, open the application, connect to your **wi-fi** network and tap on "**Add computer**" on the bottom of the screen, here it scans the IP range of the router until it detects the PC or you can manually enter computer IP:

* After a successful scan, you'll be able to see your PC name listed and input a user account (make sure its **password protected**, also turn on **password protected sharing** in advanced sharing section on your PC.
Now you need to add a sync/backup job
* Tap on the PC name and select Add sync folder:

* Here you will be presented with the following screen which will enable you to configure the origin and destination folder for the sync/backup job:

* Now select the device (**origin**) folder in this case internal storage `/storage/emulated/0` (or similar) and the computer folder (i.e **destination** folder)
* Next you need to tweak the **Copy to** parameters to suit your backup job:

* When done move to **Schedule option**, here select the automatic job back up parameters that suit you:

*Note: The app has four premium (paid) features in this app: 1) Schedule with router 2) Weekly schedule 3) Include/Exclude directories and files, new extensions and regular expressions 4)*
That should do it. Remember to run the job initially to "test" if you configured correctly.
Disclaimer: Tested and works 100%, I am not related to developer of application, and not related in any other means.
---
**2. Rsync**
Second option is using rsync, which provides a very fast method for bringing remote files into sync.
Firstly take a look at the post prior to gain a better understanding of how this works: [**Backup Android to NAS with Rsync**](https://stackoverflow.com/q/49392607/7551330)
**Prequisites**
1. Essentially here you need a Windows rsync client such as [DeltaCopy](http://www.aboutmyip.com/AboutMyXApp/DeltaCopy.jsp)or [Acrosync - Rsync GUI for Windows](https://4sysops.com/archives/acrosync-rsync-gui-for-windows/) or any other even native terminal-based rsync.
2. Android rsync client e.g [Syncopoli](https://f-droid.org/packages/org.amoradi.syncopoli/)
* Configure the virtual backup directories on the target PC, i.e setup the server and the folder using your rsync windows client.
* If its a bit confusing follow the step by step method [here](http://www.aboutmyip.com/AboutMyXApp/DeltaCopy.jsp) or [there](https://4sysops.com/archives/acrosync-rsync-gui-for-windows/)
* Setup your android rsync client by choosing origin and destination folders.
>
> Configure Syncopoli In the parameters change :
>
>
> * server address to your NAS IP
> * protocol to SSH
> * private key to the absolute path to the private key on your Android device (i.e `/storage/emulated/0/data/rsynch.key.db`)
>
>
> In the Action page, create a task :
>
>
> * Local to remote (for backup on NAS)
> * set a profile name
> * set the source folder to backup (i.e. `/storage/emulated/0`)
> * set a destination
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/09/07 | 662 | 2,565 | <issue_start>username_0: Whenever I go to my app drawer I tap "add to home screen" to a specific app.
Instead of adding to my home screen it creates a new page. Now I have a home screen and an extra page with only one app and lots of space.
How can I go to my app drawer, add an app to my home screen and avoid this problem? Below is my home screen before adding a new shortcut. It should normally add on top of these apps but instead it just creates a page to the right with the app by itself.
<issue_comment>username_1: Instead of choosing "Add to Home Screen" simply keep holding the app you wish to create a shortcut for and it will not make a new screen.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Check the settings, it might throw it onto a new page by default. Or you could circumvent it by putting them all onto one page and deleting the extra page that it creates.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I had that too.
Problem is that the little weather report on top right of your screen is actually taking up the whole space. There is no more room for icons.
Double tap or long press - I forget, the weather section and you'll see that you can crop it smaller.
Another row or two of icons will then fit on your hone screen.
Good luck to all.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: First, check if your time and weather widget are taking too much space.
To check: long press on that particular widget and you will see how much of space it is taking.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4MHSx.png)
If you are using two different widgets for time and weather, it's recommended to use one by choosing it from:
* Tap *Widgets* from lower settings appearing on your screen,
* Right swipe widgets to see more,
* Choose *Weather* from widgets and choose widget as I am using in above pic, and it uses less space.
You can also change your *App screen grid* by going to *Home Screen Settings* on the lower right of the screen (as appears in your uploaded picture).
Now, choose from menu.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vGsdd.png)
To add new shortcuts it is very useful that you do it by long pressing on any app from App drawer, dragging it and releasing it whereever you want to place that app.
Note: you can only put apps on the blank space of your Home Screen. To check space you have to long press widgets (that are on your home screen, such as Clock, Weather widget, Google Search, etc.)
Upvotes: 3 |
2018/09/08 | 588 | 2,344 | <issue_start>username_0: I cant use Google apps because of the Google Play Services. in my notification Google App wont run without Google Play Services, Which are missing from your device. How do i fix this? i cant find my Google Play Services too.but i tried to download it but then browser said that Google Play Services is intalled in my device<issue_comment>username_1: Instead of choosing "Add to Home Screen" simply keep holding the app you wish to create a shortcut for and it will not make a new screen.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Check the settings, it might throw it onto a new page by default. Or you could circumvent it by putting them all onto one page and deleting the extra page that it creates.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I had that too.
Problem is that the little weather report on top right of your screen is actually taking up the whole space. There is no more room for icons.
Double tap or long press - I forget, the weather section and you'll see that you can crop it smaller.
Another row or two of icons will then fit on your hone screen.
Good luck to all.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: First, check if your time and weather widget are taking too much space.
To check: long press on that particular widget and you will see how much of space it is taking.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4MHSx.png)
If you are using two different widgets for time and weather, it's recommended to use one by choosing it from:
* Tap *Widgets* from lower settings appearing on your screen,
* Right swipe widgets to see more,
* Choose *Weather* from widgets and choose widget as I am using in above pic, and it uses less space.
You can also change your *App screen grid* by going to *Home Screen Settings* on the lower right of the screen (as appears in your uploaded picture).
Now, choose from menu.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vGsdd.png)
To add new shortcuts it is very useful that you do it by long pressing on any app from App drawer, dragging it and releasing it whereever you want to place that app.
Note: you can only put apps on the blank space of your Home Screen. To check space you have to long press widgets (that are on your home screen, such as Clock, Weather widget, Google Search, etc.)
Upvotes: 3 |
2018/09/09 | 696 | 2,376 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to hide *bottom navigation bar* (not system wide navigation bar) or at least make it act like Chrome toolbar which shows/hides itself on scroll. I am blank on this as I couldn't find anything on hiding [Bottom Navigation bar](https://material.io/design/components/bottom-navigation.html#), except through programmatically.
This is what I'm talking about.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yOEgI.png)
I'm using a rooted OnePlus 6 with stock Android 8.1 and Xposed Framework.
As for reason for wanting this: I'd prefer to have real screen estate show something dynamic from Youtube, as part of scrolling content. That bar is in my way of using view to its maximum size.<issue_comment>username_1: **Not possible.** There isn't yet any applications or xposed modules that can do that. I also researched regarding this.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: The Xposed module [L Tweaks](https://repo.xposed.info/module/li.lingfeng.ltweaks) supports the feature of removing the bottom navigation bar of Youtube and several other apps.
1. Install L Tweaks. After installing the module, open it, then click Google.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cwNrO.png)
2. Google apps are listed with features that L Tweaks can enable/disable. Go to the bottom to find Youtube. Enable `Remove bottom bar`
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/66FlF.png)
3. Before opening Youtube, force stop it. Open Youtube, the bottom navigation bar will no longer be shown.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/u4GHR.png)
4. To access `Home`, `Trending`, and other options, swipe from the left as you do for Google .Play
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/g1wxW.png)
The module is also available in [Google Play Store](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=li.lingfeng.ltweaks) and has other features.
**Note:** The device must be rooted, and have Xposed framework installed to use the module correctly.
**Disclaimer:** I am not related to the app's developer; I am just a user.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2018/09/09 | 268 | 1,067 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm on rooted MIUI 10 8.8.9 Android 8.1
Currently there is WebView version 62.0.3202.84 installed inside /system/app/WebViewGoogle/WebViewGoogle.apk with /oat/arm and /oat/arm64 directories containing \*.odex and \*.vdex files
I've tried to just install newer \*.apk, but I get following error "Can't install system applications from unofficial channels".<issue_comment>username_1: In settings you need to enable install from Unknown sources.
Go to settings - > Additional Settings > Privacy -> Unknown sources.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Looks like MIUI's Package Installer is blocking updates of system apps, so you have to disable "Turn on MIUI optimization" in "Developer options". After that system starts using Android's Package Installer which behaves as expected and allows to update.
Note that if you want to reenable "Turn on MIUI optimization" option, you'll have to reboot your device after that for everything to work again (e.g. your device may stop receiving sms from short numbers).
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2018/09/10 | 357 | 1,459 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an old rooted HTC Desire gsm version with custom recovery installed.
Presently it is running the stock 2.3.3 android provided by htc, but this rom contains no standard apps like maps or gmail, and it has an old "market" app. The market does not update do the play store because it's too old, and it crashes at startup, so I'm stuck without any app.
I remember that years ago I successfully installed the cyanogenmod rom, but unfortunately the site is down and I cannot download it again.
I just need a very lightweight rom (possibly 2.3.7) with no frills, I don't care about nothing but:
* Gmail
* Gmaps
* Whatsapp
* A browser
What can I do to bring my old phone back to useful life? Or at least, how can I update to a working play store?<issue_comment>username_1: In settings you need to enable install from Unknown sources.
Go to settings - > Additional Settings > Privacy -> Unknown sources.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Looks like MIUI's Package Installer is blocking updates of system apps, so you have to disable "Turn on MIUI optimization" in "Developer options". After that system starts using Android's Package Installer which behaves as expected and allows to update.
Note that if you want to reenable "Turn on MIUI optimization" option, you'll have to reboot your device after that for everything to work again (e.g. your device may stop receiving sms from short numbers).
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2018/09/10 | 355 | 1,463 | <issue_start>username_0: So my Phone is a "Alcatel" and i honestly didnt know what type it is. Yesterday night. I accidentally dropped in into my running bath water, being clumsy. i quickly grabbed it and attempted to dry it off. At first it was fine and The microphone and camera wasnt working so i thought it would be okay (Ive dropped my phone in water before). SO i set it down, About maybe 2 minutes later I went to check my phone that i had plugged into my charger to see the screen not working. I could see and turn it on but the screen itself isn't working. Then next thing i know my phone died, which scared me becouse it was at 25%. I turned it off and put it in a bowl of rice, ive only checked it once sense then. I dont know what to do, im scared i damaged my phone<issue_comment>username_1: In settings you need to enable install from Unknown sources.
Go to settings - > Additional Settings > Privacy -> Unknown sources.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Looks like MIUI's Package Installer is blocking updates of system apps, so you have to disable "Turn on MIUI optimization" in "Developer options". After that system starts using Android's Package Installer which behaves as expected and allows to update.
Note that if you want to reenable "Turn on MIUI optimization" option, you'll have to reboot your device after that for everything to work again (e.g. your device may stop receiving sms from short numbers).
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2018/09/11 | 1,269 | 5,517 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a LG G7 Thin Q running Oreo. While poking around the settings, I came across "Install unknown apps."
Settings -> Apps & Notifications -> Special Access -> Install unknown apps
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/p66fM.png)
It is a list of programs that may install unknown apps. Only Messaging and Email are allowed to install unknown apps.
**Why does Android have the option for apps to install unknown apps?** It seems rather vulnerable to malware.<issue_comment>username_1: Android from early on represented an "open platform", and it helps to get a bit of context.
At time of its release the mobile platform was relatively unique with a developer toolchain that worked on Windows, Mac, and Linux. Every device could be put into 'developer mode' without the need to register the device with a central authorization server (see Apple's username_2 and later Microsoft's Windows Phone).
Distribution of apps on non-smartphones was normally done on a per carrier basis and some of that behavior persisted through 2011 with AT&T removing "unknown sources" from their phones:
<https://forums.att.com/t5/Android/quot-Unknown-Sources-quot/td-p/2814557>
and carriers continue to bundle their own apps on devices sold on their network, i.e. bloatware.
**Official developer documentation makes mention of alternative distribution:**
<https://developer.android.com/distribute/marketing-tools/alternative-distribution>
>
> As an open platform, Android offers choice. You can distribute your Android apps to users in any way you want, using any distribution approach or combination of approaches that meets your needs. From publishing in an app marketplace to serving your apps from a website or emailing them directly users, you’re never locked into any particular distribution platform.
>
>
>
So if you are a app developer, once you can afford the devices, you could in theory download the free developer tools, write the apps, test them, and deploy (corporate environment or a region unsupported by Google) without ever having to interact with Google in a official capacity.
Third party distribution apps include Amazon's App Store, Epic Games' Fortnite, and F-Droid (Open source apps).
With Android 8.0 fine grain install permissions were added so the end user now has the capability of blocking prior authorized apps without blocking others:
<https://developer.android.com/studio/publish/#publishing-unknown>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Starting Android Oreo, sideloading (installing an app from a source other than Play Store) has actually became more secure.
Previously (Naugat or below), when you used to tick "Unknown Sources" option, it actually universally allowed all apk sources (Chrome, Amazon Appstore etc). Means, the system didn't care about the source of the apk file.
Now, you need to allow individual apps which can be set as source. **And, don't worry: That allowed app won't be able to install apps in background. You will still need to hit Install button to install an app.** So, no security compromises here. You'll just have peace of mind while hitting Install button. If you've allowed Amazon Appstore only, then you can be sure that you won't be installing a malicious apk which was downloaded in background by an advertiser app.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Android has been providing this feature for quite some time. They do not enable the feature by default because it bypasses some of the security principles of the operating system.
When you are installing from the Google Play Store you do not need this feature enabled. The Google Play Store will do various other security checks over the apps APK and make sure there are no blatant security holes.
One case for this is when you are backing up applications on your device. You can create backups of your apps for offline storage. Then you can install directly from that .apk file that you saved off later with this enabled. Or if you are a developer you can keep different versions available for easy installation later or to keep other versions of that software around.
Typically it is not advised to just turn some of this feature on and just go downloading .apk files found out on the web as they might not be kind. But there are hosting sites for apps out there. Turning this feature on, lets you download from those sources.
FortNite was a recent example of a game that was released outside the Google Play Store and you needed to turn this feature on and bypass security. The main reason is sound; Google takes 30% of the profits when you use their services. Due to the popularity of the game, Google decided to do a security audit of the servers for the game when it launched and brought to light several critical security loopholes in their system that would allow for silent installs of terrible apps as well as some other features that it was bypassing. Which I think was smart on Googles part because even though it wouldn't have been in their court to resolve the issue, fingers would have been pointing their way.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: To be able to install through additional platforms such as [f-droid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.droid.f.fdroid), where there are a number of pieces of free software. These are usually open source and ad-free, meaning that you can also contribute to them if you so desire.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/09/13 | 308 | 1,295 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm creating an Android application that basically detects the vibration of a car on streets and saves the data in a file that I'll analyze later. But I'm curious to know if there's such a thing as an "accelerometer accuracy" on different phones.
If there is, is it possible to measure the accelerometer quality of a specific phone? What are the parameters I should be paying attention when I want a phone with a very good accelerometer sensitivity and accuracy?<issue_comment>username_1: The quality of the sensor is mainly determined by the used sensor chip.
For a lot of devices you can find the info which sensor chip is used for providing the accelerometer/gyroscope sensor data. E.g. you can find it in a tear-down article of the device.
With that info you can review the technical data-sheet of the used chip(s) and compare them or ask the electronic tinker scene on the net for their thoughts or recommendations.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you want to know what sensor is inside your phone, you should download Cpu-Z. It provides information about all hardware inside your phone and gives the name of the chips. So you can google for more information.
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cpuid.cpu_z>
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/09/14 | 1,027 | 3,325 | <issue_start>username_0: I have nearly the same problem as [Set Open DNS in Android 5.0.1](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/109844/set-open-dns-in-android-5-0-1?newreg=08ac8fdfbb7341fea7e27f4f64642016)
and the answer helped me.
Although I just want to change the DNS for blocking porn, what values for the following fields should I enter?
* IP Address
* Gateway
* Network Prefix Length
I have HTC mobile with 5.1 Android version.<issue_comment>username_1: You should use OpenDNS Family shield which blocks porn and malicious websites.
```
Dns1: 172.16.31.10
Dns2: 172.16.17.32
```
If your ISP blocks other DNS's, try a secure connection (use Port 443):
```
Dns1: 172.16.31.10:443
Dns2: 172.16.17.32:443
```
If you're phone has root access I recommend using a paid app called OverrideDNS which encrypts your DNS queries like DNSCrypt and makes you forget about all DNS issues that you might have, it also works on cellular data.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: To answer this, we need to understand some basics of networking and particularly how Internet Protocol works. This is a brief description of each field:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MkQWN.jpg)
IP Address:
-----------
This is the base of modern day networking. Every device recognizes other device (on same network or on other network) by its address, called IP Address. Usually IP addresses are assigned by DHCP server running on a network e.g. the one that runs on a Wi-Fi router. DHCP server assigns a unique IP from the available pool to each device that connects.
So you need to get this value from your router. When configuring IP statically, you may use the same IP that was already assigned to your device when connected as DHCP client. However you should also configure router to assign that specific IP only to your device again when the lease is expired.
Gateway:
--------
Gateways are special IP addresses that serve as the entry and exit points when the router directs traffic from one network to the other. On one side of Wi-Fi router is the local/private network to which all of your mobile phones and PC's are connected. While on the other side there is internet; the public network. So your router has two gateways; the public IP assigned to your router by ISP and the second one is usually the first IP of private network. So if 192.168.1.0 is the network address of you local network and - say - 192.168.1.15 is the IP address assigned to your phone, 192.168.1.1 should be the gateway.
Network Prefix Length:
----------------------
This basically defines the maximum number of IP addresses (hosts) a network can have. A 24-bit netmask (255.255.255.0) length means the network can have maximum 254 hosts (232 - 24 - 2). First (192.168.1.0) is the network address and last (192.168.1.255) is the broadcast address. Remaining (192.168.1.1 to 192.168.1.254) can be assigned to hosts, including gateway.
Following is the DHCP settings of the Wi-Fi router my phone is connected to.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ix1vD.png)
---
**Further Reading:**
* [How to configure DNS properly?](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/205740/218526)
* [How DNS works on Android](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/218209/218526)
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/09/14 | 1,182 | 4,127 | <issue_start>username_0: There is a virus in my android phone named `com.wgjvp.idck` and I tried every possible solution to remove it but couldn't find any solution.
What I did:
1. I hard-reset(factory-reset) my phone twice but this virus suddenly comes out.
2. Installed `Security-Master` but that also unable to resolve this
problem
This virus creates a pop-up over ads due to which I am unable to perform anything.
Even after successfully `uninstalling` this app when I lock it and open it, this virus is present already.
Two things takes place:
1. After `uninstalling' this app, it automatically gets installed.
And
2. USB-Debugging gets checked every time automatically.
This virus also switches-off the phone at certain interval. In setting inside apps virus name displayed as `com.wgjvp.idck` though on home screen the name is `Nolcans`.
I think possible solution could be disabling the developer option permanently or doing something due to which it should not be easily gets checked. and second is to block a particular app from installing in my phone with particular bundle-id or app-id like `com.abc.xyz` but I don't know how to do that.
So what should I do to completely remove this Trojan horse virus from my phone? Thanks!<issue_comment>username_1: You should use OpenDNS Family shield which blocks porn and malicious websites.
```
Dns1: 172.16.31.10
Dns2: 192.168.127.12
```
If your ISP blocks other DNS's, try a secure connection (use Port 443):
```
Dns1: 172.16.31.10:443
Dns2: 192.168.127.12:443
```
If you're phone has root access I recommend using a paid app called OverrideDNS which encrypts your DNS queries like DNSCrypt and makes you forget about all DNS issues that you might have, it also works on cellular data.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: To answer this, we need to understand some basics of networking and particularly how Internet Protocol works. This is a brief description of each field:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MkQWN.jpg)
IP Address:
-----------
This is the base of modern day networking. Every device recognizes other device (on same network or on other network) by its address, called IP Address. Usually IP addresses are assigned by DHCP server running on a network e.g. the one that runs on a Wi-Fi router. DHCP server assigns a unique IP from the available pool to each device that connects.
So you need to get this value from your router. When configuring IP statically, you may use the same IP that was already assigned to your device when connected as DHCP client. However you should also configure router to assign that specific IP only to your device again when the lease is expired.
Gateway:
--------
Gateways are special IP addresses that serve as the entry and exit points when the router directs traffic from one network to the other. On one side of Wi-Fi router is the local/private network to which all of your mobile phones and PC's are connected. While on the other side there is internet; the public network. So your router has two gateways; the public IP assigned to your router by ISP and the second one is usually the first IP of private network. So if 192.168.1.0 is the network address of you local network and - say - 192.168.1.15 is the IP address assigned to your phone, 192.168.1.1 should be the gateway.
Network Prefix Length:
----------------------
This basically defines the maximum number of IP addresses (hosts) a network can have. A 24-bit netmask (255.255.255.0) length means the network can have maximum 254 hosts (232 - 24 - 2). First (192.168.1.0) is the network address and last (192.168.1.255) is the broadcast address. Remaining (192.168.1.1 to 192.168.1.254) can be assigned to hosts, including gateway.
Following is the DHCP settings of the Wi-Fi router my phone is connected to.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ix1vD.png)
---
**Further Reading:**
* [How to configure DNS properly?](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/205740/218526)
* [How DNS works on Android](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/218209/218526)
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/09/14 | 442 | 1,832 | <issue_start>username_0: If I want to resize partitions or restore a backup later, how do I make sure that `/proc/dumchar_info` reflects the changes?
As far as I can tell, `dumchar_info` is not related to the MBR and EBRs, since it has more info.<issue_comment>username_1: I cant find a dumchar\_info file on my device, but usually using `proc/partinfo` gives you the physical start locations and lengths of each partition, not including the preloader partition. Hypothetically if you resized the DATA partition to an extra 1 Gig, you would need to adjust the entire partition scheme after the new ending length position, you could readjust the size of only the next partition if you leave enough space for it to actually be used.
You would need to update any changes to the scatter file, the new starting positions of each partition and the new sizes.
Backup and restore, you can just backup the entire emmc and restore it again using SP Flash Tool.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: `/proc/dumchar_info` is provided by the `dumchar` driver, which reads the partitioning info from a header file generated during the build process and compiled in when the kernel is built. This header file is also used by other components, like the preloader, possibly bootloader, and both regular and recovery kernels. This means unless you can rebuild said components with a new header file, the partitioning is quite literally hard-coded.
A scatter file is related, in that it's generated from the same source. You can use the information from `/proc/dumchar_info` (together with some assumptions) to generate a scatter file.
For more information on partitioning on MediaTek devices that don't use GPT, see [here](http://www.lieberbiber.de/2015/07/04/mediatek-details-partitions-and-preloader/#partitions).
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2018/09/14 | 441 | 1,529 | <issue_start>username_0: I try to execute `chmod` on a file with Termux, but it sends back an error which I'm unable to solve.
My phone is not rooted. If you can help me I would be most grateful to you for this! Here is the command and the error:
```
$ chmod +x /sdcard/meta-install.sh
chmod: changing permissions of 'meta-install.sh': Operation not permitted
```
Thanks!<issue_comment>username_1: Android does not allow you to create executable files within the `sdcard` (internal storage, mounted in userspace) partition without root.
A workaround would be to execute the file as `bash meta-install.sh`, assuming it is a bash file. (Alternatively `sh meta-install.sh` to run it using `sh` as the shell).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Filesystem on Android's internal memory (called External Storage) is `SDCardFS` (successor of FUSE) which imposes a mask mode (fix permissions) on all files and directories. It's an emulated/virtual filesystem, not the real one. You can only change permissions with `chmod` from `/data/media/` which is the real filesystem (ext4 or f2fs). But `/data/media/` is only accessible to root user.
**Further Reading:**
* [What is /storage/emulated/0?](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/205494/218526)
**Related:**
* [Is it possible to change file permissions on Android's internal storage?](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/208927/218526)
* [How to remount sdcardfs to allow setting file permisions / ownerships?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/199526/218526)
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/09/16 | 459 | 1,645 | <issue_start>username_0: I lost my phone abroad. I want to use Google's 'find my phone/erase my phone' function to wipe all my Google data (account on my phone) remotely. HOWEVER, I can't figure out how to prevent this from erasing all the data/media in my Google drive/Google Photo's. Obviously I only want the account erased from the phone, and NOT my cloud data...Am I worrying for nothing? I'm quite hesitant to erase my phone now...Anyone with knowledge on this issue?
Thanks in advance!<issue_comment>username_1: Android does not allow you to create executable files within the `sdcard` (internal storage, mounted in userspace) partition without root.
A workaround would be to execute the file as `bash meta-install.sh`, assuming it is a bash file. (Alternatively `sh meta-install.sh` to run it using `sh` as the shell).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Filesystem on Android's internal memory (called External Storage) is `SDCardFS` (successor of FUSE) which imposes a mask mode (fix permissions) on all files and directories. It's an emulated/virtual filesystem, not the real one. You can only change permissions with `chmod` from `/data/media/` which is the real filesystem (ext4 or f2fs). But `/data/media/` is only accessible to root user.
**Further Reading:**
* [What is /storage/emulated/0?](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/205494/218526)
**Related:**
* [Is it possible to change file permissions on Android's internal storage?](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/208927/218526)
* [How to remount sdcardfs to allow setting file permisions / ownerships?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/199526/218526)
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/09/16 | 495 | 2,044 | <issue_start>username_0: I would like to use [t-igra](https://stackoverflow.com/users/5256040/t-igra)'s [SwipeLock+](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.t_igra.swipelockplus) app, but it requires device administrator permissions.
Google Play Store lists the following permissions:
* receive data from Internet
* view network connections
* full network access
* run at startup
* draw over other apps
* prevent device from sleeping
* install shortcuts
Are any of these a security risk?<issue_comment>username_1: Maybe. Only give permission to apps that You have sure about its security and privacy.
Even apps on play store can take malicious intentions.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: To answer your title, device administrator by itself is not a risk as it does not give extra privileges beyond what is mentioned in app manifest. See [What permissions are granted to an app with device administration privileges?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/165605/131553)
Permissions are classified as *normal, signature and dangerous*.
See [permission overview for more details](https://developer.android.com/guide/topics/permissions/overview#dangerous-permission-prompt). Note that these keep changing with Android versions. *Create shortcuts* for instance is a normal permission
More important than this classification is to know why those permissions are needed by the app. Last four mentioned by you are required by the app to be a lock screen app. As for the first three, I don't know why they are required and it's best to ask the developer (note that reasons are not given in the app description). If you aren't satisfied with the reply don't install or install and block access using a firewall.
I am not implying developer here is posing a risk for you but you should know why it is required - as you care and therefore are asking. For example, here is [another screen lock app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.iglint.android.screenlock) that doesn't need *receive data from internet*
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/09/17 | 241 | 934 | <issue_start>username_0: Whenever I try to flash TWRP I get
>
> Custom binary blocked by FRP Lock.
>
>
>
I'm trying to flash with Heimdall.<issue_comment>username_1: I rebooted into the firmware and went
* Settings
* Software information
* Click Build Options 5 times
Then I went to
* Settings
* Developer Options
* OEM Unlock
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: On recent Android devices, when you have Factory Reset Protection, which is enabled automatically when you setup a Google account, custom binaries (the files that are not signed by the OEM) are blocked (custom recoveries, boot, etc) for security reasons as one can bypass that lock and gain access to your data.
So disabling OEM lock in the Developer Settings, which opens the bootloader to non-signed binaries, should let you flash any custom binary.
EDIT:
To recover your device, simply flash it with a stock firmware uing Heindall or Odin.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/09/17 | 260 | 1,040 | <issue_start>username_0: I started downloading a game using Wi-Fi, the game was about 1.5GB . When almost 800 MB was done I closed Wi-Fi. The download paused. Will I be able to continue from 800 MB when I connect to Wi-Fi again. Or from the beginning?<issue_comment>username_1: I rebooted into the firmware and went
* Settings
* Software information
* Click Build Options 5 times
Then I went to
* Settings
* Developer Options
* OEM Unlock
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: On recent Android devices, when you have Factory Reset Protection, which is enabled automatically when you setup a Google account, custom binaries (the files that are not signed by the OEM) are blocked (custom recoveries, boot, etc) for security reasons as one can bypass that lock and gain access to your data.
So disabling OEM lock in the Developer Settings, which opens the bootloader to non-signed binaries, should let you flash any custom binary.
EDIT:
To recover your device, simply flash it with a stock firmware uing Heindall or Odin.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/09/18 | 642 | 2,228 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm in the process of putting a large amount of music ~1.5TB (in many folders) into a samba share on ubuntu. I'm wondering what a good application to stream this to android would be, currently I can access the samba share with es file explorer, but I don't think it will be good for playing albumbs. Testing it out, it could play individual tracks quite well, but I could find no play all option for a folder in any of its play options. I don't need album art or search by artist, just want to be able to play all songs in a folder quickly/flexibly. Thanks in advance for any tips.<issue_comment>username_1: There are a couple of good samba network music players available on market. For starters you can take a look at [Soumi: Network Music Player](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.techsoftpl.musicplayer&hl=en)
Its keys features include..
>
> * Plays music from shared folders on local SMB/CIFS network, e.g Windows share, WiFi drive, NAS, USB drive attached to router, etc.
> * Plays music from FTP, FTPS, SFTP, and WebDAV servers
> * Browsing and instant searching by artist, album, genre, and title
> * Find, browse and **play music by folder**
>
>
>
*Note; It offers In-app purchases for certain features*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/T5PTd.jpg)
Other potential candidates include [Kodi](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.xbmc.kodi) (which I personally use but is a bit tricky to setup and consumes a bit more battery power) or [BSPlayer](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bsplayer.bspandroid.free) which also allow playback of media files directly via Wi-Fi from your network shared drives/folders.
Another option is using DNLA or UPnP (only downloadside is you need to setup a media server at the other end. In that case you can use DLNA players like Bubble uPnP or Plex.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: [https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.threecats.sambaplayer&hl=en≷=US](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.threecats.sambaplayer&hl=en&gl=US)
username_2/this so far is the best network player (android)
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/09/18 | 586 | 1,855 | <issue_start>username_0: >
> Would I install Android Studio on my PC that have Window 7 and 2 GB RAM?
>
>
><issue_comment>username_1: No. You need at least 3 GB RAM. [Source](https://developer.android.com/studio/#Requirements).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: 8 GB RAM recommended
--------------------
2 GB of RAM isn't enough for any of the platforms. 3 GB RAM is the minimum plus 1 GB for Emulator = 4 GB minimum. However 8 GB RAM is recommended.
From [Android Studio Requirements](https://developer.android.com/studio/#Requirements):
Windows
-------
* Microsoft® Windows® 7/8/10 (32- or 64-bit)
* **3 GB RAM minimum, 8 GB RAM recommended**; plus 1 GB for the Android Emulator
* 2 GB of available disk space minimum,
* 4 GB Recommended (500 MB for IDE + 1.5 GB for Android SDK and emulator system image)
* 1280 x 800 minimum screen resolution
Mac
---
* Mac® OS X® 10.10 (Yosemite) or higher, up to 10.13 (macOS High Sierra)
* **3 GB RAM minimum, 8 GB RAM recommended**; plus 1 GB for the Android Emulator
* 2 GB of available disk space minimum,
* 4 GB Recommended (500 MB for IDE + 1.5 GB for Android SDK and emulator system image)
* 1280 x 800 minimum screen resolution
Linux
-----
* GNOME or KDE desktop
* Tested on Ubuntu® 14.04 LTS, Trusty Tahr (64-bit distribution capable of running 32-bit applications)
* 64-bit distribution capable of running 32-bit applications
* GNU C Library (glibc) 2.19 or later
* **3 GB RAM minimum, 8 GB RAM recommended**; plus 1 GB for the Android Emulator
* 2 GB of available disk space minimum,
* 4 GB Recommended (500 MB for IDE + 1.5 GB for Android SDK and emulator system image)
* 1280 x 800 minimum screen resolution
**Note:** Probably works with Ubuntu's default Unity desktop which is based on Gnome but Google only says "Gnome" or "KDE" so this needs to be tested.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2018/09/19 | 240 | 905 | <issue_start>username_0: I’m trying to get my kids android devices to be on do not disturb mode when they’re at school.
Schedule based works fine but also effective on holidays which is I wanted.
Any ideas?<issue_comment>username_1: have you tried using an app like `Tasker`?
Here's a [reddit link](https://www.reddit.com/r/tasker/comments/75zlpw/turn_onoff_do_not_disturb_based_on_location/) with a possible solution for your query.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: There is a free app called IFTTT (If This Then That). It lets you set up a trigger and an action that happens when the trigger fires. You could set the school as a geofence trigger, and "Set to do not disturb" as the action. Unfortunately, this app on its own will not stop them from simply turning off 'Do not disturb' manually. You will need some other parental control that stops them from messing with the settings.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/09/19 | 291 | 1,029 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Samsung galaxy smart phone. Whenever I download apps such as,Ubber and Facebook it tells me that my storage is full. I have cleared up cache memory but still there is no difference. What can I do?<issue_comment>username_1: * Uninstall some Apps
* Delete some data (e.g Photos, Videos)
* Install a cleaner that has a Deep-Cleaning Feature
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: [Disk usage](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.diskusage&hl=en) - view whats really eating up your storage
[SD maid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.thedarken.sdm) - file cleaner
[Files Go - by google](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.nbu.files) - leave it installed and it will automatically remind you what unused files to delete
[Google Photos](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.photos) - backup every photo and select free up storage to delete already backed up images and videos
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/09/20 | 1,120 | 4,217 | <issue_start>username_0: Whatsapp is ubiquitous and is commonly used despite the long scary list of permissions it seeks ( see [Help understanding Whatsapp's permissions](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/71802/131553) )
Privacy and security conscious people would like to avoid it and use alternate means like Telegram but there are a huge bunch of people who are blind to the concerns and merrily use it
I am forced to use it, since I have a friends and relatives who are comfortable with this and won't consider switching - some got introduced to smartphones using this, for some others it is convenience of usage and the most common refrain is *I have nothing to hide* :-(
So my question boils down to **How do I use Whatsapp without exposing my contacts and private photos to Whatsapp (read Facebook)?**
This is a self answered question sharing one way and you are welcome to post other ways if you find<issue_comment>username_1: Requisites
==========
* Download **Shelter** - an open source app from [F-droid](https://f-droid.org/en/packages/net.typeblog.shelter/) or [GitHub](https://github.com/PeterCxy/Shelter). Quoting the developer, use cases
>
> * Run “Big Brother” apps inside the isolated profile so they cannot access your data outside the profile
>
>
> + “Freeze” (disable) background-heavy or seldom-used apps when you don’t need them. This is especially true if you use apps from Chinese companies like Baidu, Alibaba, Tencent.
> + Clone apps to use two accounts on one device
>
>
>
* Create a dummy gmail account to be populated with only Whatsapp contacts
* Device with work profiles (post Lollipop all have them) unless you used a Magisk or Xposed module to disable this
Methodology
===========
1. Export your contacts to your dummy Gmail account. Follow instructions [here](https://support.google.com/contacts/answer/1069522?hl=en) or any other way, like this [Export telegram and whatsapp contacts to vcf?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/132876/131553)
. Delete all non Whatsapp contacts from this account (you don't want Whatsapp / Facebook to see ALL your contacts , right?)
2. Add this account to your phone from Settings → Google → Account ( will vary , but you can search)
3. Install Shelter
4. Click on the app to see two panes *Main* (where all your apps are listed) and *Shelter* where you will see contacts , Google Play Store. Go to Main and long press on Whatsapp and choose *Clone to shelter (Work Profile)*
5. Go to shelter tab and set up Whatsapp as if it is a new account and when it asks for contacts point it to the dummy Gmail account created having Whatsapp contacts
6. Delete all Whatsapp contacts from your main account and if you wish uninstall or Freeze or disable Whatsapp
**Note:** Open whatsapp from within the shelter (work profile) not from the app drawer. If you open from outside you will find Whatsapp having access to contacts and gallery. Once you install whatsapp *it is completely limited to the storage dedicated to the work profile* and cannot see storage outside the work profile
**Profit** Your contacts and photos are separated ! and Whatsapp will not see at least your future non whatsapp contacts / pictures
On a side note, even with root and mighty Xposed module like [XprivacyLua](https://forum.xda-developers.com/xposed/modules/xprivacylua6-0-android-privacy-manager-t3730663) , a successor to Xprivacy, contacts by **group cannot be separated** ; in other words you can only choose all / starred/ non starred contacts to be visible per app but you can't say hide my Whatsapp contacts ( For more details see [Para 18](https://github.com/M66B/XPrivacyLua/blob/master/FAQ.md#FAQ18))
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: * OnePlus users: I've verified WhatsApp works with Parallel Apps feature, which allows you to run certain apps on a minimal profile.
* Pixel, Samsung, etc: The Island app allows you to run a fake "work" profile simultaneously.
They don't have access to your contacts, but they see your storage. You can use the apps like a normal app. Only issue is if you give it access to your contacts immediately, it will run into a glitch. Say no the first time and it will work fine.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/09/21 | 761 | 2,855 | <issue_start>username_0: After doing some research, it mention that the bootstrap in this url (<http://termux.net/bootstrap/>) must be download and install before one can use Termux.
So, how do I install the bootstrap? or do I put the bootstrap files into a particular folder in the phone before install Termux? or something else I need to do? or are there alternative methods to get Termux installed and running without connecting to the Internet?
(Note: The phone is not connect to the Internet. The phone need to have Termux installed with all prerequisite packages, such as bootstrap.)<issue_comment>username_1: If you want to install that bootstrap package without internet, you need root access.
The easiest way I've found is with Titanium Backup. You can install Termux on another device, bootstrap it then back it up with TB, and transfer the TB backup to the offline device and restore. It's also convenient for batch deploy.
**If you want to manually install the bootstrap package** via a shell (another Terminal Emulator or ADB shell), here's a possible method (I haven't tested it myself, but I think it's mostly correct). As said before, manual installation also requires root access.
First download the ZIP of the correct architecture and create these directories:
```
/data/data/com.termux/files/home
/data/data/com.termux/files/usr
```
And extract the ZIP completely to `/data/data/com.termux/files/usr`.
Then create some symbolic links because they're required for Termux to work. The instruction to creating those symbolic links are stored in `SYMLINKS.txt` and you need to process that.
Well, putting Unicode characters in such a text file isn't a good practice because it makes it hard to parse. Maybe you can try this tool ([Meta Sandbox](https://meta.stackexchange.com/a/315753/350567), [CodePen](https://codepen.io/ibug/pen/qMvKdM)) on a desktop browser. First click "Run Code Snippet" to enable it. Paste the content of `SYMLINKS.txt` to the text box, click `Convert` and run the output as shell commands. Make sure you're running those `ln` commands in `/data/data/com.termux/files/usr`.
Finally, correct the permissions, ownerships and SELinux contexts. Run the following commands. You can use the "vanilla" toolset in `/system/bin` for this job. They perform well here.
```
ROOT=/data/data/com.termux/files
UID=$(stat -c %u $ROOT)
chown -R $UID.$UID $ROOT
chmod -R 0755 $ROOT/usr/bin $ROOT/usr/libexec
```
If you're running Android 7 (API 24) or up, run this command in addition:
```
chcon -R u:object_r:app_data_file:s0:c512,c768 $ROOT
```
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Termux was unable to install the bootstrap packages
I had the same error and I was connected to internet. I had to go into settings and put Termux on internal shared storage and finally got it to install
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/09/21 | 733 | 2,577 | <issue_start>username_0: I am trying to issue this command
```
adb shell "su -c echo 'boot-recovery' > /cache/recovery/command"
//OR//
adb shell "echo 'boot-recovery' > /cache/recovery/command"
```
outputs the same: `/system/bin/sh: can't create /cache/recovery/command: Permission denied`
I granted root permission for adb and i can run other commands with root normally like `touch` for example
I tried the command both ways when the file did and did not existed.
I tried checking for the existence of the file:
```
adb shell "if [ -f /cache/recovery/command ]; then echo "file found"; else echo "error"; fi"
```
it returned `error` even though the file does in fact exist
**The Goal is** to add a few lines to the recovery queue so the run the next time the device boots into recovery
Please correct me, I'm not so good at android command line, do I need to use a different command to achieve this goal?
**More info:** Android 8.1 (RR oreo) ... Magisk SU ... TWRP 3.2 *(But need this to be compatible with as many android versions, recoveries, and su binaries as possbible .... **I hope lol**)*<issue_comment>username_1: ```
adb shell 'su -c "echo \"boot-recovery\" > /cache/recovery/command"'
adb shell 'su -c "'"echo "boot-recovery" > /cache/recovery/command"'"' #Alternative
adb shell "su -c \"echo 'boot-recovery' > /cache/recovery/command\"" #Another alternative
adb shell 'su -c "'"echo "'"boot-recovery"'" > /cache/recovery/command"'"' #yet another alternative
```
That should work. I'm not sure why. [This answer](https://stackoverflow.com/a/42082956/4720957) from codeforester might help you out if you're looking for a reason.
My take is that, in:
```
adb shell "su -c echo 'boot-recovery' > /cache/recovery/command"
```
adb shell launches a non-interactive shell, the double quotes are expanded , leaving
```
su -c echo 'boot-recovery' > /cache/recovery/command
```
However, in this, only echo `'boot-recovery'` gets to be run with root privilege and the resulting output falls back to shell user (id=2000) which doesn't have the privilege to write into cache directory, hence the error.
Quoting everything after `-c` passes whole `echo 'boot-recovery' > /cache/recovery/command` instruction to `su` executable, and so, that does work.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: For me, this worked:
```
adb shell "su -c 'boot-recovery > /cache/recovery/command'"
```
You start with a double quote before `su -c`. Then single quote for the command, a single quote after the command and close with a double quote.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/09/22 | 557 | 2,062 | <issue_start>username_0: I just got a new 'phone running Android 8.10 Oreo, and I can't find the schedule power off/on anywhere.
Has the feature been removed? If not, where can I find it; I realize that this might vary by device, but there can only be afew places to look ... ?<issue_comment>username_1: This hasn't been a stock Android feature. Some sources including this [Missing "Scheduled Power On/Off" option in Android 5.0.2 on Swipe Elite Plus phone](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/196553) talk of it being on Lollipop but I jumped that version so can't comment
For sure, it's not a stock feature from 6.0 to 8.1. You can use some [automation](/questions/tagged/automation "show questions tagged 'automation'") app to schedule power off not power on
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I found it on my Nokia 3 TA-1020 with Android 8.0.0 through the Search feature in Settings: "Scheduled power on & off" which leads to "Scheduled power on & off". I have found no other way of getting to that item.
Update (21-Dec-2018): After updating to Android 8.1.0, that search doesn't work anymore. It seems that feature has now been removed. Pity.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I have just upgraded to Android 8.1 some days ago, and the "Scheduled power on and off" feature has been moved under "System" in the settings (as the whole settings menu has been reordered). Note, that the search also finds it for me. (type "scheduled").
So the feature is in place but does not work anymore, or at least my phone stopped to switch on since upgraded the Android version. Only the switch-off is actually working for me.
If you find the feature, I am curious whether both the power on and off will work for you.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9Uc1i.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: you will find schedule power on off mode in settings right under Developer option. if your developer option is not activated then you can activate it by tapping on Build noumber 6/7 times.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/09/23 | 340 | 1,513 | <issue_start>username_0: This error seldom occur for system apps but sometimes it occur while open an application that newly installed and that app doesn't start.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/N3MjI.png)
Question isn't about specific app or process but exact reason and possibilities of this error occurrence.<issue_comment>username_1: From a software standpoint, there are many types of errors.
All errors should have the ability to be handled as to let the application remain running, but sometimes there are errors that are uncaught. The developer is responsible for catching the errors or handling things to not allow errors to occur. However, there are some things that a developer is not able to foresee, so they slip past.
These uncaught errors can crash the application. They can range from any number of things, such as database access, file reading, values not being properly checked, etc. The program ends up trying to do something it is not capable of doing, and simply crashes.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: As per the answer above, Uncought errors are a major cause but also corrupt cache can be another issue. Sometimes after installing rom while not resetting, even system apps can crash. Try clearing cache through recovery or doing a complete factory reset on some cases.
On the case of app errors, they can only be solved programmatically. Contact the developer to let them fix it.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/09/25 | 487 | 1,993 | <issue_start>username_0: I used an Android Virtual Device (AVD) for some while and got some pictures on it, that I want to have outside of the AVD.
The problem is, that I don't know a way to get the picture out of it, since the folders on my laptop, that the AVM was running on, only contain compressed images of the whole system.
Does anyone know, if the picture might be stored as a `.jp`g file somewhere on my laptop (probably in `$HOME/android-sdk-linux/`) or if there is a way to export the picture?
I thought about just taking a screenshot of it, since they are saved as `.jpg` files on my laptop, but I don't know, if it might compromise the quality.
Thank you in advance!
More information, that could be helpful:
OS: Linux Mint, Kernel version 4.4.0-135-generic
AVD type and Android version: Nexus 5, Android 6.0
Emulated CPU: Intel Atom (x86\_64)<issue_comment>username_1: From a software standpoint, there are many types of errors.
All errors should have the ability to be handled as to let the application remain running, but sometimes there are errors that are uncaught. The developer is responsible for catching the errors or handling things to not allow errors to occur. However, there are some things that a developer is not able to foresee, so they slip past.
These uncaught errors can crash the application. They can range from any number of things, such as database access, file reading, values not being properly checked, etc. The program ends up trying to do something it is not capable of doing, and simply crashes.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: As per the answer above, Uncought errors are a major cause but also corrupt cache can be another issue. Sometimes after installing rom while not resetting, even system apps can crash. Try clearing cache through recovery or doing a complete factory reset on some cases.
On the case of app errors, they can only be solved programmatically. Contact the developer to let them fix it.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/09/25 | 564 | 1,891 | <issue_start>username_0: My LG G3 phone (phone is rooted; OS is [Android Fulmics](https://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g3/development/rom-fulmics-rom-3-0-tweaks-hub-ota-v30b-t3304556)) is recognised by my laptop when I plug it in. The laptop is running Ubuntu 18.04 and I can easily copy data from and to my phone.
I have recently installed the Android Debug Bridge (ADB) (`sudo apt-get install android-tools-adb`). Then, I wanted to reach my device and typed `adb devices`.
When functioning properly, [it **should** return something like this](https://wiki.ubuntuusers.de/adb/):
```
* daemon not running. starting it now on port 5037 *
* daemon started successfully *
List of devices attached
5200d6fd904b2200 device
```
But when I tried it, it returned this:
```
List of devices attached
* daemon not running. starting it now on port 5037 *
* daemon started successfully *
```
So, `List of devices attached` appeared **first** and no device was listed.
When I type `adb devices` again, I get this:
```
List of devices attached
```
I have also tried to use `sudo adb devices` instead of `adb devices` but the results were the same.
When the ADB would work, I would try to use it for data recovery purposes as [described here](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/200469/271628). Maybe the `pull` command can do what I want.<issue_comment>username_1: [This](https://stackoverflow.com/a/14251564/8713892) has solved my problem. I could not turn on USB debugging because the phone was connected to my computer. You have to unplug the phone first, start the USB debugging and plug it back in. Then, `adb devices` worked.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: For one plus 6 I had to switch off developer mode
-> connect USB to phone
-> switch on developer mode
-> switch on debugging mode
-> a prompt appears to allow pc to connect
-> select yes
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/09/25 | 359 | 1,358 | <issue_start>username_0: When I search something in google, I get a suggestion from google about its meaning and details in Hindi Language. I don't know whether it is based on some geo location or something. I neither know Hindi nor wanted to learn it.
Is there some ways in which I could turn this feature off? I don't know why google is suggesting something to me which I don't even know.
What I have already done:
1. Went to My Account
2. Under Language and input , selected English ( UK ) and My mother tongue ( Malayalam )
3. Saved the preference.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gnqwI.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Is this issue you face on the browser's site? Or app? You could always change the language from bottom...guess you've already tried this but wth hope your issue gets resolved soon 
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: 1. Please open Google app
2. Tap to more button (right)
3. Tab to settings
4. Tab to search language
5. Select or change your search language
Exuzme, I speaking English is weak .
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Open google website. At the bottom you will see setting.
Go to setting / search setting / region setting / change it to United States. Then you will not get Hindi version.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/09/26 | 699 | 2,504 | <issue_start>username_0: i installed `android-x86-4.2-20130228` as a live but does'nt read my partition of my hardisk
i tried with **Paragon UFSD Root Mounter** but not work good in 4.2.2 and **es explorateur** does'nt read any partition<issue_comment>username_1: i think that you could mount your partition from your hard disk with the mount command.
Usually all partitions are avalaible in `/dev/block/`.
So you could check what is mounted by typing "mount" in a terminal emulator app or through adb (computer).
After that, u could comparring the partitions names with an `ls -al /dev/block/` command.
After that u could have a better idea of wich partition name is your hard disk.
Usually, and depending on how you have connected your hard disk to your android-X86 (SD or USB or by other method(s)), the partition block have "mmc" is it name.
Finally, you could mount your partition with theses followed command:
```
mkdir /hard-disk-partition
mount -t FAT32 -o rw /dev/block/partitionname /hard-disk-partition
-t argument is used to define the partition filesystem
-o argument is used to define the access type
```
`-r` is for read only
`-rw` is for read and write
`-rwx` is for read, write, and execute
I think that `-t` and `-o` arguments are sufficients for your usage.
Ah, and before i forget, it's possible that you have to install an "all-in one toolbox" like Busybox or Toybox, because maybe that some applets commands aren't installed on your Android system (`/system/bin` and `/system/xbin/`), it will be usefull if u have to use commands like egrep, sed or awk for exemple.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Peace be with you!
I have tried a lot search on Google and then at last I successfully done it.
Now I tell you how to do it.
Let's begin!
1)Open the terminal
2)Give following commands
su
mkdir /mnt/windows
ntfs-3g /dev/block/sdax mnt/windows
Note: x is the number of your drive which can be 1,2 or 3 etc.
3)Now open File manager named Super File Manager.
If you have not installed then install using the link below:
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.superfilemanager.esexplorer.exfileexplorer>
4)Go to settings, scroll down and check Root Explorer
5) Navigate back from the settings and there a tab will appear named /Root .Click this tab and find /mnt directory there.Open it and find folder named window within this directory.
Open it also and there you will find your ntfs drive of windows environment.
Tell me if any problem!
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/09/27 | 515 | 1,667 | <issue_start>username_0: How to install TWRP after Magisk?
=================================
I have a OnePlus 6 running Oxygen OS 9.0 and I managed to install Magisk by obtaining the stock boot image and using the magisk manager app to patch it to include magisk, then I flashed the patched boot.img using fastboot and ADB.
The reason I did it this way is that every time I tried to boot with twrp.img in order to flash twrp.zip, I would run into a screen saying Qualcomm CrashDump Mode and TWRP wouldn't boot.
Now I want to install TWRP and I was wondering if there is any way of doing it by using Magisk, so I wouldn't have to boot twrp.img.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: Had a similar issue. The problem is that regular twrp (current version 3.2.3) does not work with Oxygen OS 9.0.
The solution is to use blu\_spark twrp, which does work. You can find the download here:
<https://forum.xda-developers.com/devdb/project/?id=27466#downloads>
(twrp-3.2.3-x\_blu\_spark\_v9.86\_op6.img and twrp-3.2.3-x\_blu\_spark\_v9.86\_op6.zip)
linked to from the main Oxygen OS 9.0 oneplus 6 thread on xda-developers:
<https://forum.xda-developers.com/oneplus-6/how-to/official-oxygenos-5-1-5-ota-oneplus-6-t3794232>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: **There is different method from Android 9 and later.**
For Android 9 and 10 devices, ensure to disable dm\_verity by flashing an empty vbmeta before flashing magisk patched boot. Some devices most especially those using Unisoc chipset require that you generate your custom signed vbmeta.
*Sorry, I don't know more but only this difference about Android 9 or newer.*
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/09/28 | 562 | 2,352 | <issue_start>username_0: **The info**
Android version: 8.1.0
Phone: BQ Aquaris X Pro.
The phone ships with almost-stock Android. I am using Nova Launcher (not sure if important)
**The situation**
I have a Bluetooth headset on my motorbike's helmet wich supports both Bluetooth connection with the smartphone, and direct connection with another headset, but not simultaneously. So if I turn on my headset while my phone's Bluetooth is on, it connects automatically to my phone, before it connects to my partner's headset.
Until now, I was just fine disabling Bluetooth on my phone when needing to pair with another headset. But I just got an smartwatch, and every time I disable Bluetooth on my phone, when I enable it again, the watch connects to my phone and starts a painfully long a-gps updating process.
**The question**
How do I tell my phone not to connect to the headset automatically?<issue_comment>username_1: In the Bluetooth settings for the headset, try selecting disconnect. This should disconnect it, until you connect again manually (I think). If that doesn't work, try switching off 'phone audio' in the Bluetooth settings for that device; but I'm not quite certain if you need to reenable that every time you want to use it.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Unfortunately, there is no explicit setting "do not autoconnect" for a Bluetooth device (wish there were). However, there is a workaround (as mentioned in username_1's answer):
* In Settings, open the list of Bluetooth devices, and click on the cog icon next to a device.
* The detail screen should show a list of all types of connections the device supports, such as "Phone calls", "Media audio" etc. (these represent the supported [Bluetooth profiles](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Bluetooth_profiles)).
* Now disable *all* profiles.
* The phone will no longer auto-connect to that device, though it will still remain paired.
* The setting will persist even after restarting the phone or switching the other device on/off.
If you do want the phone to connect, open the list of Bluetooth devices, and tap on the device (not on the cog). It will then reconnect, with default profiles. This setting will also persist, use steps above to disable autoconnect again.
*Tested on Android 12, but probably works on other versions, too.*
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/09/29 | 754 | 2,796 | <issue_start>username_0: I was stumbling upon the "Smallest width" settings. It seems increasing this value will make everything show up smaller on the screen and vice versa.
What does it mean and what's its function?<issue_comment>username_1: Here is the relevant excerpt from <https://developer.android.com/training/multiscreen/screensizes>.
>
> The "smallest width" or "minimum width" screen size qualifier allows
> you to provide alternative layouts for screens that have a minimum
> width measured in density-independent pixels (dp or dip).
>
>
> By describing the screen size as a measure of density-independent
> pixels, Android allows you to create layouts that are designed for
> very specific screen dimensions while avoiding any concerns you might
> have about different pixel densities.
>
>
> The smallest width qualifier specifies the smallest of the screen's
> two sides, regardless of the device's current orientation, so it's a
> simple way to specify the overall screen size available for your
> layout.
>
>
> Here's how other smallest width values correspond to typical screen
> sizes:
>
>
>
> ```
> 320dp: a typical phone screen (240x320 ldpi, 320x480 mdpi, 480x800 hdpi, etc).
> 480dp: a large phone screen ~5" (480x800 mdpi).
> 600dp: a 7” tablet (600x1024 mdpi).
> 720dp: a 10” tablet (720x1280 mdpi, 800x1280 mdpi, etc).
>
> ```
>
> Remember that all the figures for the smallest width qualifier are
> density-independent pixels, because what matters is the amount of
> screen space available after the system accounts for pixel density
> (not the raw pixel resolution).
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: The propery `smallest width` is inversely proportional to the PPI setting (called `ro.sf.lcd_density`) that is specified in the file `/system/build.prop`. Meaning higher numbers for `smallest width` correspond to lower numbers for `ro.sf.lcd_density`.
The property `ro.sf.lcd_density` specifies the UI 'density': for lower numbers, it will render the same UI element using fewer pixels, making it smaller.
The upside of rendering the UI smaller is that it's just like using a higher resolution (or lower DPI setting) on a desktop computer: you have more space to put everything because smaller things means you can fit more of those things on your screen.
The downside is that the smaller UI makes it harder to read for people having difficulties reading small fonts or discerning small details.
Another downside is that your touches need to be very precise to hit the smaller UI elements. Unfortunately the resolution of the hardware touch-sensors doesn't scale along, so very precise touches are not that easy to achieve consistently, thus putting a lower limit to `ro.sf.lcd_density` for what you can comfortably use daily.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/09/29 | 779 | 2,869 | <issue_start>username_0: So I am using Vivo V7 on an airtel 4g data connection and every time I try to open apps like swiggy or foodpanda I get a message saying "there was a problem" "please try again later. However when I open these apps on a wifi they work fine. What is going wrong here??<issue_comment>username_1: Here is the relevant excerpt from <https://developer.android.com/training/multiscreen/screensizes>.
>
> The "smallest width" or "minimum width" screen size qualifier allows
> you to provide alternative layouts for screens that have a minimum
> width measured in density-independent pixels (dp or dip).
>
>
> By describing the screen size as a measure of density-independent
> pixels, Android allows you to create layouts that are designed for
> very specific screen dimensions while avoiding any concerns you might
> have about different pixel densities.
>
>
> The smallest width qualifier specifies the smallest of the screen's
> two sides, regardless of the device's current orientation, so it's a
> simple way to specify the overall screen size available for your
> layout.
>
>
> Here's how other smallest width values correspond to typical screen
> sizes:
>
>
>
> ```
> 320dp: a typical phone screen (240x320 ldpi, 320x480 mdpi, 480x800 hdpi, etc).
> 480dp: a large phone screen ~5" (480x800 mdpi).
> 600dp: a 7” tablet (600x1024 mdpi).
> 720dp: a 10” tablet (720x1280 mdpi, 800x1280 mdpi, etc).
>
> ```
>
> Remember that all the figures for the smallest width qualifier are
> density-independent pixels, because what matters is the amount of
> screen space available after the system accounts for pixel density
> (not the raw pixel resolution).
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: The propery `smallest width` is inversely proportional to the PPI setting (called `ro.sf.lcd_density`) that is specified in the file `/system/build.prop`. Meaning higher numbers for `smallest width` correspond to lower numbers for `ro.sf.lcd_density`.
The property `ro.sf.lcd_density` specifies the UI 'density': for lower numbers, it will render the same UI element using fewer pixels, making it smaller.
The upside of rendering the UI smaller is that it's just like using a higher resolution (or lower DPI setting) on a desktop computer: you have more space to put everything because smaller things means you can fit more of those things on your screen.
The downside is that the smaller UI makes it harder to read for people having difficulties reading small fonts or discerning small details.
Another downside is that your touches need to be very precise to hit the smaller UI elements. Unfortunately the resolution of the hardware touch-sensors doesn't scale along, so very precise touches are not that easy to achieve consistently, thus putting a lower limit to `ro.sf.lcd_density` for what you can comfortably use daily.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/10/02 | 1,981 | 7,239 | <issue_start>username_0: Related, but different than, [these](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/44385/is-there-a-list-that-explains-the-risks-involved-with-each-granted-application-p?rq=1) two [questions](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/169781/dangers-of-ad-modules-in-apps), I'd like to know if the usual ad blockers on Android do anything to prevent user tracking from ad modules. Those questions are several years old by now and things have changed substantially.
If I use Ad Block Plus (with no whitelist), AdAway, uBlock Origin within Firefox, or other popular ad blockers, do these do anything for the ad modules in the OS/APK from sending private data to the ad networks and/or app developer?
Presumably, a HOSTS based blocker would prevent at least some data exfiltration like this, but I'm not up to speed how the other blockers work.
If it matters, I'm currently using OctOS L, based on 5.1.
Tangentelly, on a desktop browser, there are tracking prevention tools like Disconnect, Ghostery, Privacy badger, and various cookie management mechanisms that I use in conjunction with an ad blocker.<issue_comment>username_1: ### It depends.
Some ad blockers block the display of the app, and ad blocker addons for browsers are mostly of this type.
Some other ad blockers, as [noted by Izzy](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/202282/does-an-adblocker-defeat-the-tracking-part-of-the-ad-module-or-just-the-display#comment258679_202282), alters your `hosts` file and blocks the connection between your local apps and the ad servers. This kind of blockers effectively disconnects your device from the ad services and usually disables ad modules from tracking you.
The one I like is [Lucky Patcher](https://www.luckypatchers.com/). It disables ad-related Activities with `pm disable`, and fully stops relevant code from executing. This is, I believe, the most effective and safest way, since some ad providers may try to track you even if it can't connect to its server.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: **tl:dr;**
* Tracking can be done by an app without showing ads. By merely blocking ads you are not preventing tracking
* Hosts based ad blocking is better than browser ad blocking, since it does **not reveal PII** (Also see [Izzy's comments](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/202282/does-an-adblocker-defeat-the-tracking-part-of-the-ad-module-or-just-the-display/202312?noredirect=1#comment258895_202312)) Browser based adblockers **can track** as shown, so it is a privacy risk
* To prevent tracking , ad blocking needs to be in conjunction with other methods of plugging Privacy breach or PII breach. The only tool available is Xposed module [XprivacyLua](https://repo.xposed.info/module/eu.faircode.xlua) for Android 6.0 to 8.1. It is a successor of [Xprivacy module](https://repo.xposed.info/module/biz.bokhorst.xprivacy) that runs on earlier Android versions
---
>
> I'd like to know if the usual ad blockers on Android do anything to prevent **user tracking** from ad modules
>
>
>
What is *user tracking* ? This needs to put in context first. It can be anything that *fingerprints* an user for instance (Also, see [this article from Izzy's blog](https://android.izzysoft.de/articles/named/identifiers-1)
**Network Information**
* WiFi you are connected to (SSID)
* Country network identifier, telecom operator you are connected to,
**Device Information**
**Device information – [Build Properties](https://developer.android.com/reference/android/os/Build)**
* Device build user, build type, build time, build tags, build serial, build radio, build manufacturer, build ID
* Advertising Client ID
* Google Services Framework (GSF) ID
* In case of web browsing *more* information – see [Browser leaks](https://browserleaks.com/) and [Webkay](http://webkay.robinlinus.com/)
* **Analytics** (Fabric/Crashlytics, Facebook app events, Firebase Analytics, Google Analytic, Mixpanel, Segment)
This list is illustrative and not exhaustive . For instance, SIM information, IMEI information, Sensors on the device etc may also be used. For more details on other privacy elements see [XprivacyLua Github](https://github.com/M66B/XPrivacyLua)
Now, coming to specifics in your question . As you rightly surmised Hosts file based ad blockers just do that, block access to listed domains and are more effective than browser based adblockers as you can see from [iBug’s answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/202294/131553) and [Izzy’s comments](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/202282/does-an-adblocker-defeat-the-tracking-part-of-the-ad-module-or-just-the-display?noredirect=1#comment258679_202282)
So if your primary aim is to block ads is the way to go compared to browser based plugins, which *may* leak PII information (It **does leak** in the case of Ad Block Plus, haven't tested others)
But the question to be asked is *Am I stopping being tracked?* for which the answer is emphatic **NO** , unless you use tools in addition to prevent privacy breach and this is where XprivacyLua comes in
>
> If I use Ad Block Plus (with no whitelist), AdAway, uBlock Origin within Firefox, or other popular ad blockers, do these do anything for the ad modules in the OS/APK from sending private data to the ad networks and/or app developer?
>
>
>
**NO**, in the case of Adblock plus
I am not discussing the relative merits partly because I haven’t used them all and partly because it is secondary to the thrust of my answer. However, I installed Ad Block Plus and restricted exposure of elements that facilitate fingerprinting, as an example
Screenshot below shows the actual values and the values exposed to the outside world to prevent breach. For instance the first shows the operator information as `40445` (no secret here) and what is revealed is `00101` and the last shows while I am using a Xiaomi device , make is not revealed ( I have chosen specific portions of log (needs Pro version) which anyway don't reveal too much). So Adblock plus is revealing all your build properties!
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8hnXz.jpg)
(Click to enlarge)
In addition it is also revealing your **Android ID, advertising ID, GSF ID** as you can see from the notification
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3mOk3.jpg)
(Click to enlarge)
So, you set out to block ads and while doing that revealed information that can be used to fingerprint you :-(
To sum up you need a wholistic approach to guard your privacy and the best available for that is XprivacyLua
Please note that while this module is very powerful, it has certain limitations like restricting access only if the app uses Java Code and not native code or restricting tracking on browsing if Webview is used and not a browser like Chrome. That said, it’s the best weapon in the arsenal to protect privacy. In addition to the *hooks* (restrictions) provided by the developer others have contributed custom hooks and being open source you can write / modify your own hook. To top it, the developer is ever available and responsive on the XDA threads
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/10/02 | 299 | 1,138 | <issue_start>username_0: Some networks charges high in cellular data...so disability of background data is great money saver.<issue_comment>username_1: >
> Step 1 Open Settings and tap Data usage.
>
>
> Step 2
> Scroll down to view a list of your Android apps sorted by data usage (or tap Cellular Data usage to view them). Tap an app to check out detailed usage statistics. This is where you can restrict background data for individual apps.
>
>
> Step 3
> Tap the app(s) you don’t want to connect to mobile data and select Restrict app background data.
>
>
>
[Reference Link](https://ting.com/blog/ting-tip-for-android-control-which-apps-use-background-mobile-data/)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I could not find a single setting to Disable or Restrict every app's background Data Usage, I can find setting to restrict All Background Data and one to Disable Data altogether, using only Wifi now.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: You should see the data restriction if you're on Android Pie, if you want to set restrictions on earlier versions you can use apps like NetGuard to restrict data to apps.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/10/03 | 748 | 2,896 | <issue_start>username_0: Obviously, I have inadvertently changed some setting, but can’t figure out what.
I use K9 with 6 accounts, none of which have previously used encryption (I would prefer to – my correspondents wouldn’t). Suddenly all of them, when I try to compose an email have a red padlock at the top right and a tooltip appears at the bottom saying
>
> “Cannot connect to crypto provider; check your settings or click crypto icon to retry”.
>
>
>
On the individual account settings, and also on global settings, the Cryptography tab shows :
* OpenPGP App - None
* Show unencrypted signatures – unchecked
* Autocryptography Mutual Mode – unchecked.
I cannot find any other cryptography options and do not remember changing any. What *might* have caused it (a very slim chance, but I can think of nothing else) is that it first occurred when I used FireFox Focus, which is privacy oriented and always runs in private mode, to share a link to a web page. Perhaps that changed some setting?
Well, it doesn’t really matter how it happened, but now I cannot send any mail without this error message.
How can I disable cryptography in K9?<issue_comment>username_1: This is a bug reported four months ago and unresolved as you can [see here](https://github.com/k9mail/k-9/issues/3420). The context is different but the error message is the same. One solution that worked for somebody is
>
> Workaround is to manually start the cryptoprovider (OpenKeyChain), then reopen k9 and tap on the lock sign, then sending works for me...
> The problem is the operating system preventing openkeychain to start automatically or being started by k9
>
>
>
This happened to me too recently (and I didn't know this was a bug). I backed up K9 and Open Keychain using Titanium Backup, uninstalled both, restored only K9 and it worked. Much latter, restored Open Keychain and set it up globally and per account and all fine
~~If either of these solutions don't work, you may well add your experience in the bug tracker and post resolution or what worked for you~~
OP has resolved the problem as [per comments](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/202304/k9-suddenly-wants-to-encrypt-all-mail-and-wont-send-any#comment258700_202305) and requested this to be added to help others
>
> I just exported all settings, uninstalled & re-imported....exporting settings & unchecking `global settings` when importing did the trick (I will have to go over those manually now)
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I had this problem, of not being able to send any message, encrypted or not, while OpenKeychain was installed. I tried a bunch of settings, and what seemed to work was uninstalling OK, waiting a few days to a week, then reinstalling OK. I imported all the necessary keys, and so far I'm able to send both unencrypted and encrypted messages.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/10/04 | 563 | 2,526 | <issue_start>username_0: Can I ask If what will be the effects if I will Disable my Built-in android launcher and replace with the launcher that I have downloaded??<issue_comment>username_1: It wouldn't show again unless you enable it. It won't cause any critical problems if you disable it.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: A smartphone is capable of performing several functions using a single device. That includes calls, messages, photo, video, internet, social media etc. So, if a manufacturer releases a phone, it should have these default features. That means, after device power on you can see phone app for call utility, camera app for photo, video capture, default keyboard for typing words. If anyone is missing, it would affect device functionality. Likewise, all applications arrangement/displaying app is called **launcher**. These are the basic apps required for functioning and they are called **system apps**.
Android also allows you to install other apps that provides similar functions as I have mentioned above. They are called **user apps**.
For example, your device comes up with launcher app, and you can install Nova launcher app from play store. When such similar apps installed, you need to set a default app for use. to do that, go to Settings->Apps->Default apps->home app. set the one you required. It will also asks you to set default launcher while pressing home button after installation.
* system apps has options in settings: DISABLE and FORCE STOP
* user apps has options in settings :UNINSTALL and FORCE STOP
+ DISABLE is used disable app function. App icon will be removed from launcher. it will not affect other apps. Also, you cannot disable every system app.
+ FORCESTOP to stop currently running app
+ UNINSTALL remove app from device.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: As long as you don't uninstall it, you should be good:
* if you need to factory-reset the device, the launcher would be enabled again automatically. If you'd delete the app, you wouldn't have a launcher after a factory-reset and thus "sit in the dark" – and it would be quite tricky for a normal user to get out of that nasty situation.
* the launcher you've installed should take over from the one that came with the device. If you're satisfied with that, there's no need to keep the pre-installed launcher enabled.
* just make sure you do it in the opposite order as your question mentions it: first install the new launcher, then disable the pre-installed one :)
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/10/04 | 961 | 3,475 | <issue_start>username_0: I run a LineageOS device with MicroG, but since the default messaging app is not able to be disabled I need to remove it everytime I flash an update file. This is becoming more and more tedious as more apps I need to remove on update increase.
How do you write a script that removes these apps whenever you flash so the removal changes persists? Something like addon.d but that is for backing up apps.
Edit : Both answers are correct, the one I posted and the one by Death Mask Salesman. I accepted the one by Death Mask Salesman because it is relevant to the question, however the one I posted solved my problem.<issue_comment>username_1: I tried `pm disable` , `pm hide` , and `pm block` – but all of them spew out error messages. But when I tried `pm disable-user` it works! And the changes persists after reflashing, so that's great! I don't need to write a script after all!
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: As an alternative to the other answer, I bring a more definitive approach, based on `addon.d` and targeted at system apps deletion.
Remember that, unlike the `pm` based method, which can be reversed at will, apps deleted with this approach can only be reobtained by commenting out the appropriate lines in the debloater script and reapplying the OTA update.
---
Introduction
------------
Any shell script in the `/system/addon.d` directory is executed right after an OTA update has been applied. The order of execution depends on the integer at the beginning of a file's name, since scripts are evaluated in increasing order.
---
The code
--------
The removal of a system app is simply a matter of issuing `rm -rf` on the app's parent directory. We can thus write a script so that these removals are carried out seamlessly after each update.
If, for example, we want to remove the stock `Email` app, our script will look like
```
#!/sbin/sh
rm -rf "/system/app/Email"
```
Here, the `#!/sbin/sh` is a mandatory line that instructs TWRP about which program will evaluate the script. Do not remove it.
`rm -rf` is a command used to forcibly remove whatever follows it in a recursive fashion. Thus, `rm -rf "/system/app/Email"` removes the `/system/app/Email` directory and everything inside it, thereby deleting the Email app altogether.
To add more apps to the list, simply append more `rm -rf` statements as per the example, replacing `/system/app/Email` with the path of the app you want to remove.
---
Finalizing
----------
Once you're done writing the script, you'll need to copy it to `/system/addon.d`. In order to be executed, its name should begin with an integer, followed by a hyphen. For the sake of this answer, I'll call it `99-debloat.sh`, which makes it be evaluated after the other addon scripts.
After that, you'll likely need to change the script's permissions and ownership. To change the permissions, use
```
chmod 755 /system/addon.d/99-debloat.sh
```
To alter the ownership, use
```
chown 0.0 /system/addon.d/99-debloat.sh
```
---
A full example
--------------
The method described in this answer is the one I myself use; I'll add my personal `99-debloat.sh` script here for reference.
```
#!/sbin/sh
app="/system/app"
priv_app="/system/priv-app"
rm -rf $app/Calendar
rm -rf $app/Email
rm -rf $app/FM2
rm -rf $app/PicoTts
rm -rf $app/Stk
rm -rf $priv_app/FlipFlap
rm -rf $priv_app/Gallery2
rm -rf $priv_app/Snap
rm -rf $priv_app/WeatherProvider
```
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2018/10/04 | 932 | 3,274 | <issue_start>username_0: Device: LG Q6 M700DSK
OS: Android Oreo (8.1)
Root status: Unrooted
Q: Is factory resetting from recovery or settings better? (LG Q6)
On my device you can factory reset the device from the settings and from the recovery mode (power+vol-down and when on lg logo quickly let go of power and hold it again, it will give you an option to reset), is there a difference between the two? Is resetting from recovery better?<issue_comment>username_1: I tried `pm disable` , `pm hide` , and `pm block` – but all of them spew out error messages. But when I tried `pm disable-user` it works! And the changes persists after reflashing, so that's great! I don't need to write a script after all!
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: As an alternative to the other answer, I bring a more definitive approach, based on `addon.d` and targeted at system apps deletion.
Remember that, unlike the `pm` based method, which can be reversed at will, apps deleted with this approach can only be reobtained by commenting out the appropriate lines in the debloater script and reapplying the OTA update.
---
Introduction
------------
Any shell script in the `/system/addon.d` directory is executed right after an OTA update has been applied. The order of execution depends on the integer at the beginning of a file's name, since scripts are evaluated in increasing order.
---
The code
--------
The removal of a system app is simply a matter of issuing `rm -rf` on the app's parent directory. We can thus write a script so that these removals are carried out seamlessly after each update.
If, for example, we want to remove the stock `Email` app, our script will look like
```
#!/sbin/sh
rm -rf "/system/app/Email"
```
Here, the `#!/sbin/sh` is a mandatory line that instructs TWRP about which program will evaluate the script. Do not remove it.
`rm -rf` is a command used to forcibly remove whatever follows it in a recursive fashion. Thus, `rm -rf "/system/app/Email"` removes the `/system/app/Email` directory and everything inside it, thereby deleting the Email app altogether.
To add more apps to the list, simply append more `rm -rf` statements as per the example, replacing `/system/app/Email` with the path of the app you want to remove.
---
Finalizing
----------
Once you're done writing the script, you'll need to copy it to `/system/addon.d`. In order to be executed, its name should begin with an integer, followed by a hyphen. For the sake of this answer, I'll call it `99-debloat.sh`, which makes it be evaluated after the other addon scripts.
After that, you'll likely need to change the script's permissions and ownership. To change the permissions, use
```
chmod 755 /system/addon.d/99-debloat.sh
```
To alter the ownership, use
```
chown 0.0 /system/addon.d/99-debloat.sh
```
---
A full example
--------------
The method described in this answer is the one I myself use; I'll add my personal `99-debloat.sh` script here for reference.
```
#!/sbin/sh
app="/system/app"
priv_app="/system/priv-app"
rm -rf $app/Calendar
rm -rf $app/Email
rm -rf $app/FM2
rm -rf $app/PicoTts
rm -rf $app/Stk
rm -rf $priv_app/FlipFlap
rm -rf $priv_app/Gallery2
rm -rf $priv_app/Snap
rm -rf $priv_app/WeatherProvider
```
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2018/10/04 | 1,467 | 6,024 | <issue_start>username_0: Authenticated Apple devices can charge at up to 2100mA x 5V. Apple-non-fast-charging and non-Apple devices are relegated to much slower 500mA x 5V charging. Thus, while my OnePlus One phone itself supports a 5V charging current of up to 2000mA, it is not possible to charge at higher than 500mA.
Does a method exist to increase the available "Extra Operating Current (mA)" from 0 to the max value possible? I am interested in both OSX and Android related solutions.
Related but not helpful post [here](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/43314/nexus-7-charges-very-slowly-even-with-2-amp-chargers).<issue_comment>username_1: Sorry for that. You can't.
Apple has pretty much built a lot of standards on its own, and Apple devices communicate in their own way. So your Mac is happy to recognize an iPhone or iPad, but never an Android phone.
Maybe get a good charger for your OnePlus One?
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: IMHO theoretically it should be possible because usually power delivery via USB means that source and drain mutual agree on the maximum power consumption.
But what happens if drain (the phone) just ignores the agreement (or does not agree at all) and just consumes the power? AFAIK the OSX computer will deliver it, because usually the power is just available and I never heard of any computer that actually measures the power consumption on the USB port (if somebody has different info on that topic just correct me). You just have to make sure to use the correct USB port because otherwise you may damage the port if the phone tries to consume more power than the USB port physically can provide.
There you may want to try special USB cables (or an adapter) that only connect the power lines but not the data lines. Using such a cable the Android device may think that it is connected to a power plug instead of a computer and uses a higher charging rate. Depending on the phone charging type the USB data cables may need a certain resistor connected to ground or +5V - this is the way some phone identify special fast charger.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: **I can confirm that for my MacBook Pro, charge current is increased above 500mA when using a POWER ONLY cable.**
My understanding is that if the phone is connected via a POWER & DATA cable, the 'consumer' negotiates with the host for how much current is passed over the cable. When the negotiation asking for higher current is not successful, the available current is reduced to the standard (USB 2.0 defined) 500mA amount at 5V.
In the case of the POWER ONLY cable, no negotiation can take place and thus, the maximum usable current is provided by the host to the client or 'power consumer'.
*Some observations...*
* When running on battery power (±80% state of charge), my early 2015 13" MacBook Pro (2x USB 3.0 ports) was able to charge my OnePlus One (±60% state of charge) at a maximum current of about 1750mA.
* No change in charging current was observed when the laptop was connected to the mains or powered by the internal battery.
* No change in charging current was observed when switching from one USB port to the other.
* During the phone's charging process, keeping the screen ON resulted in an average charge current of about 700mA. When the screen was kept OFF, the average charge current increased to about 1750mA as previously mentioned.
* As the phone battery reached a higher state of charge, the charge current was gradually reduced. At 67% state of charge, the maximum current was 1650mA. Note that this is consistent with the general behavior of lithium ion batteries. The battery controller will reduce the charge current in order to reduce the stress the battery's chemistry experiences during repeated cycling.
* According to another answer, using a thunderbolt-powered USB hub in combination with a POWER & DATA cable seems to achieve higher charging currents as well. This, however, requires an additional dongle which is a solution I did not prefer.
* The following is taken from an answer to [Why is charging from computer using USB slower than using an outlet?](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/82683/275871)
>
> The reason your android device draws less power from your USB connection than from a wall adapter is because of the USB specification. This can be side-stepped by shorting the data wires in in the USB cable, which will switch the phone or tablet into wall mode where it can draw the full available current. The amount of current available will vary considerably from PC to PC.
>
>
> The reason the specification exists in the first place is that the voltage to the computer's USB ports is usually supplied via the motherboard by a single loop connection which services all of the USB ports at once. Being only a few microns thick, this circuit is not able to deliver the same current as a dedicated charging wire. It is highly improbable that you will 'burn out your motherboard' by trying to draw the full available current through this circuit (although it is theoretically possible if your computer was a total P.O.S. to begin with). What is more likely to happen is that you will exceed the manufacturer's design specification, thereby denying sufficient power to any other USB devices you have connected, and/or other internal circuits which can cause the PC to crash. This is the very same reason it is recommended you use powered USB hubs.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: <NAME>, the YouTuber with the Swiss accent, has a great [explanation/demonstration](https://youtu.be/dw3MehLAyWU) of how QC chargers use USB data lines to tell a charger/host to change voltage thereby increasing or decreasing charge current, enabling balance between charging speed and battery health.
In USB-C as specified in version 1.3 this functionality migrated to a dedicated serial line. Apple, having often followed their own path, should now be falling into line with official specifications.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/10/05 | 1,330 | 5,569 | <issue_start>username_0: My wife has an iPhone, she goes to hamburger and "create new label".
I have a Google pixel, I don't have this feature. Or do I, and I'm just being blind?<issue_comment>username_1: Sorry for that. You can't.
Apple has pretty much built a lot of standards on its own, and Apple devices communicate in their own way. So your Mac is happy to recognize an iPhone or iPad, but never an Android phone.
Maybe get a good charger for your OnePlus One?
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: IMHO theoretically it should be possible because usually power delivery via USB means that source and drain mutual agree on the maximum power consumption.
But what happens if drain (the phone) just ignores the agreement (or does not agree at all) and just consumes the power? AFAIK the OSX computer will deliver it, because usually the power is just available and I never heard of any computer that actually measures the power consumption on the USB port (if somebody has different info on that topic just correct me). You just have to make sure to use the correct USB port because otherwise you may damage the port if the phone tries to consume more power than the USB port physically can provide.
There you may want to try special USB cables (or an adapter) that only connect the power lines but not the data lines. Using such a cable the Android device may think that it is connected to a power plug instead of a computer and uses a higher charging rate. Depending on the phone charging type the USB data cables may need a certain resistor connected to ground or +5V - this is the way some phone identify special fast charger.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: **I can confirm that for my MacBook Pro, charge current is increased above 500mA when using a POWER ONLY cable.**
My understanding is that if the phone is connected via a POWER & DATA cable, the 'consumer' negotiates with the host for how much current is passed over the cable. When the negotiation asking for higher current is not successful, the available current is reduced to the standard (USB 2.0 defined) 500mA amount at 5V.
In the case of the POWER ONLY cable, no negotiation can take place and thus, the maximum usable current is provided by the host to the client or 'power consumer'.
*Some observations...*
* When running on battery power (±80% state of charge), my early 2015 13" MacBook Pro (2x USB 3.0 ports) was able to charge my OnePlus One (±60% state of charge) at a maximum current of about 1750mA.
* No change in charging current was observed when the laptop was connected to the mains or powered by the internal battery.
* No change in charging current was observed when switching from one USB port to the other.
* During the phone's charging process, keeping the screen ON resulted in an average charge current of about 700mA. When the screen was kept OFF, the average charge current increased to about 1750mA as previously mentioned.
* As the phone battery reached a higher state of charge, the charge current was gradually reduced. At 67% state of charge, the maximum current was 1650mA. Note that this is consistent with the general behavior of lithium ion batteries. The battery controller will reduce the charge current in order to reduce the stress the battery's chemistry experiences during repeated cycling.
* According to another answer, using a thunderbolt-powered USB hub in combination with a POWER & DATA cable seems to achieve higher charging currents as well. This, however, requires an additional dongle which is a solution I did not prefer.
* The following is taken from an answer to [Why is charging from computer using USB slower than using an outlet?](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/82683/275871)
>
> The reason your android device draws less power from your USB connection than from a wall adapter is because of the USB specification. This can be side-stepped by shorting the data wires in in the USB cable, which will switch the phone or tablet into wall mode where it can draw the full available current. The amount of current available will vary considerably from PC to PC.
>
>
> The reason the specification exists in the first place is that the voltage to the computer's USB ports is usually supplied via the motherboard by a single loop connection which services all of the USB ports at once. Being only a few microns thick, this circuit is not able to deliver the same current as a dedicated charging wire. It is highly improbable that you will 'burn out your motherboard' by trying to draw the full available current through this circuit (although it is theoretically possible if your computer was a total P.O.S. to begin with). What is more likely to happen is that you will exceed the manufacturer's design specification, thereby denying sufficient power to any other USB devices you have connected, and/or other internal circuits which can cause the PC to crash. This is the very same reason it is recommended you use powered USB hubs.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: <NAME>, the YouTuber with the Swiss accent, has a great [explanation/demonstration](https://youtu.be/dw3MehLAyWU) of how QC chargers use USB data lines to tell a charger/host to change voltage thereby increasing or decreasing charge current, enabling balance between charging speed and battery health.
In USB-C as specified in version 1.3 this functionality migrated to a dedicated serial line. Apple, having often followed their own path, should now be falling into line with official specifications.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/10/08 | 1,409 | 5,880 | <issue_start>username_0: I saw similar questions but there was no generic answer to the issue.
Is there a way to determine what is turning my BT ON? I don't have rooted phone (but can ADB)
I got Samsung Galaxy S5 with Android 6.0.1.
What I did:
1. Turned off BT scanning for "fine localization"
2. Revoked permission to change phone settings to ALL apps that had one (including g services)
3. Disabled all BT scanning related things that I have found.
How to find what is turning BT on?<issue_comment>username_1: Sorry for that. You can't.
Apple has pretty much built a lot of standards on its own, and Apple devices communicate in their own way. So your Mac is happy to recognize an iPhone or iPad, but never an Android phone.
Maybe get a good charger for your OnePlus One?
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: IMHO theoretically it should be possible because usually power delivery via USB means that source and drain mutual agree on the maximum power consumption.
But what happens if drain (the phone) just ignores the agreement (or does not agree at all) and just consumes the power? AFAIK the OSX computer will deliver it, because usually the power is just available and I never heard of any computer that actually measures the power consumption on the USB port (if somebody has different info on that topic just correct me). You just have to make sure to use the correct USB port because otherwise you may damage the port if the phone tries to consume more power than the USB port physically can provide.
There you may want to try special USB cables (or an adapter) that only connect the power lines but not the data lines. Using such a cable the Android device may think that it is connected to a power plug instead of a computer and uses a higher charging rate. Depending on the phone charging type the USB data cables may need a certain resistor connected to ground or +5V - this is the way some phone identify special fast charger.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: **I can confirm that for my MacBook Pro, charge current is increased above 500mA when using a POWER ONLY cable.**
My understanding is that if the phone is connected via a POWER & DATA cable, the 'consumer' negotiates with the host for how much current is passed over the cable. When the negotiation asking for higher current is not successful, the available current is reduced to the standard (USB 2.0 defined) 500mA amount at 5V.
In the case of the POWER ONLY cable, no negotiation can take place and thus, the maximum usable current is provided by the host to the client or 'power consumer'.
*Some observations...*
* When running on battery power (±80% state of charge), my early 2015 13" MacBook Pro (2x USB 3.0 ports) was able to charge my OnePlus One (±60% state of charge) at a maximum current of about 1750mA.
* No change in charging current was observed when the laptop was connected to the mains or powered by the internal battery.
* No change in charging current was observed when switching from one USB port to the other.
* During the phone's charging process, keeping the screen ON resulted in an average charge current of about 700mA. When the screen was kept OFF, the average charge current increased to about 1750mA as previously mentioned.
* As the phone battery reached a higher state of charge, the charge current was gradually reduced. At 67% state of charge, the maximum current was 1650mA. Note that this is consistent with the general behavior of lithium ion batteries. The battery controller will reduce the charge current in order to reduce the stress the battery's chemistry experiences during repeated cycling.
* According to another answer, using a thunderbolt-powered USB hub in combination with a POWER & DATA cable seems to achieve higher charging currents as well. This, however, requires an additional dongle which is a solution I did not prefer.
* The following is taken from an answer to [Why is charging from computer using USB slower than using an outlet?](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/82683/275871)
>
> The reason your android device draws less power from your USB connection than from a wall adapter is because of the USB specification. This can be side-stepped by shorting the data wires in in the USB cable, which will switch the phone or tablet into wall mode where it can draw the full available current. The amount of current available will vary considerably from PC to PC.
>
>
> The reason the specification exists in the first place is that the voltage to the computer's USB ports is usually supplied via the motherboard by a single loop connection which services all of the USB ports at once. Being only a few microns thick, this circuit is not able to deliver the same current as a dedicated charging wire. It is highly improbable that you will 'burn out your motherboard' by trying to draw the full available current through this circuit (although it is theoretically possible if your computer was a total P.O.S. to begin with). What is more likely to happen is that you will exceed the manufacturer's design specification, thereby denying sufficient power to any other USB devices you have connected, and/or other internal circuits which can cause the PC to crash. This is the very same reason it is recommended you use powered USB hubs.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: <NAME>, the YouTuber with the Swiss accent, has a great [explanation/demonstration](https://youtu.be/dw3MehLAyWU) of how QC chargers use USB data lines to tell a charger/host to change voltage thereby increasing or decreasing charge current, enabling balance between charging speed and battery health.
In USB-C as specified in version 1.3 this functionality migrated to a dedicated serial line. Apple, having often followed their own path, should now be falling into line with official specifications.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/10/08 | 741 | 2,252 | <issue_start>username_0: There are three [sets of numbers and letters in the Samsung firmware zip names](https://www.theandroidsoul.com/samsung-galaxy-s7-firmware/) I'm seeing,
* `G930FXXU2EREM_G930FOJV2ERE8_TUR.zip`
What do the different sets mean,
* `G930FXXU2EREM`
* `G930FOJV2ERE8`
* `TUR`
---
[*For older Samsung ROMs which used a shorter convention see this question.*](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/183326/7425)<issue_comment>username_1: The first part G930FXXU2EREM is the "serial" for this ROM.
The second part G930FOJV2ERE8 is the "serial" for "previous" ROM (i.e. before an OTA update).
TUR is a region code, this case it's Turkey.
So you can think it's:
```
{to}-{from}-{region}.zip
```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The info of this exact firmware is shown [on this page](https://updato.com/firmware-archive-select-model?record=BD0DDAB96C8311E89F15FA163EE8F90B).
As written, `G930FXXU2EREM` is the PDA version, and `G930FOJV2ERE8` is the CSC version. PDA represents the "core" OS build, while CSC - "Consumer Software Customisation" or "Country Specific Code" (didn't find an official explanation of the acronym) - represents the region-specific customizations. The two, along with "Phone" (baseband), provide tailored experience for the region (`TUR`) such as available language, preloaded apps, optimized cellular performance and battery consumption, etc.
As for the naming convention of the string itself, I've explained that in [a previous answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/183328/150986) of mine, but it needs to be expanded to cover new fields in modern Samsung devices. Let's take your string `G930FXXU2EREM` for example:
* `G930F` is obviously the model number;
* `XX` is for country/region (XX itself means Europe or international);
* `U2E` is the bootloader version, which you should never attempt to downgrade (this is in turn explained [here](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/180313/explain-dont-downgrade-warnings-when-flashing-stock-firmware/180315#180315));
* `REM` are the release date and version (within same month): `R` for year (Q for 2017, R for 2018, etc.), `E` for month (A for January, E for May, etc.), and `M` for within-month revision.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2018/10/09 | 793 | 3,202 | <issue_start>username_0: I am aware that on Windows this is very much possible. But is it possible on Android (latest OS with all the security updates)? Can you install a virus/malware/spyware by just clicking on an image? Suppose the image is sent via WhatsApp/any other messenger?<issue_comment>username_1: As of today, no malware for Android, or one of the popular messengers that exploits images, is publicly known, so you can open images and be fairly certain that nothing bad will happen. All the warnings I saw in the past were just fakes or originated by ["scareware"](https://nakedsecurity.sophos.com/2013/05/31/android-malware-in-pictures-a-blow-by-blow-account-of-mobile-scareware/) (security scanners which give you false malware reports).
Theoretically it would be possible, [here's a scientific paper with a proof of concept](https://www.blackhat.com/docs/eu-14/materials/eu-14-Apvrille-Hide-Android-Applications-In-Images-wp.pdf) from 2014 "Hide Android Applications in Images" by Apvrille/Albertini if you want to know the details. There are also multiple articles which are easier to read about the paper, such as this [blog entry](https://www.expressvpn.com/blog/android-users-find-malware-in-image-files/). But again, as of today, no malware is knowm that utilized or utilizes images on Android.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Your comment about Windows is probably referring to WMF images, which aren't exactly 'normal' image files. They can contain actual natively executable code, including being able to make some very low-level calls directly into the graphics drivers. Most other image formats only contain actual image data (and usually some metadata about things like what color correction to do, what time the image was created, etc).
In theory, it's still possible to exploit normal image files though. There have been a number of vulnerabilities over the years in various image handling libraries that could be used as starting points for actual ACE exploits (though the full exploit is likely to be platform specific). These all just required an image to be processed by the library (so, displayed in an application that uses the vulnerable library).
However, it's a pretty unlikely attack vector for any realistic malware. Coding an image that can exploit these issues and doesn't immediately arouse suspicion (either due to the size of the file, ro the lack of any content) is pretty hard, and given that these bugs tend to get patched very quickly, probably wouldn't be worth the effort long-term.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: No, this is not possible (as far as is currently known).
The exploit you are referring to is perhaps the
[Windows Metafile vulnerability](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_Metafile_vulnerability).
There was also [Microsoft Windows Explorer - '.png' Image Local Denial of Service](https://www.exploit-db.com/exploits/30619/).
These were all Windows exploits.
A search on the [Exploit Database Archive](https://www.exploit-db.com/)
for "android image" has not found any exploits,
while a search for "windows image" has found several.
So no worry for Android - these image exploits are specific to Windows.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/10/13 | 833 | 3,316 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm using my Samsung Tab 2016 P580 for taking lecture notes. I used the Samsung Notes app, and now, my device is running out of storage. Furthermore, I can't access the notes from my PC.
I have a 32GB storage card that can't function as Internal storage. I am looking to back up my notes and I do not have a rooted device.
Do you have any idea how to solve the problem?<issue_comment>username_1: As of today, no malware for Android, or one of the popular messengers that exploits images, is publicly known, so you can open images and be fairly certain that nothing bad will happen. All the warnings I saw in the past were just fakes or originated by ["scareware"](https://nakedsecurity.sophos.com/2013/05/31/android-malware-in-pictures-a-blow-by-blow-account-of-mobile-scareware/) (security scanners which give you false malware reports).
Theoretically it would be possible, [here's a scientific paper with a proof of concept](https://www.blackhat.com/docs/eu-14/materials/eu-14-Apvrille-Hide-Android-Applications-In-Images-wp.pdf) from 2014 "Hide Android Applications in Images" by Apvrille/Albertini if you want to know the details. There are also multiple articles which are easier to read about the paper, such as this [blog entry](https://www.expressvpn.com/blog/android-users-find-malware-in-image-files/). But again, as of today, no malware is knowm that utilized or utilizes images on Android.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Your comment about Windows is probably referring to WMF images, which aren't exactly 'normal' image files. They can contain actual natively executable code, including being able to make some very low-level calls directly into the graphics drivers. Most other image formats only contain actual image data (and usually some metadata about things like what color correction to do, what time the image was created, etc).
In theory, it's still possible to exploit normal image files though. There have been a number of vulnerabilities over the years in various image handling libraries that could be used as starting points for actual ACE exploits (though the full exploit is likely to be platform specific). These all just required an image to be processed by the library (so, displayed in an application that uses the vulnerable library).
However, it's a pretty unlikely attack vector for any realistic malware. Coding an image that can exploit these issues and doesn't immediately arouse suspicion (either due to the size of the file, ro the lack of any content) is pretty hard, and given that these bugs tend to get patched very quickly, probably wouldn't be worth the effort long-term.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: No, this is not possible (as far as is currently known).
The exploit you are referring to is perhaps the
[Windows Metafile vulnerability](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_Metafile_vulnerability).
There was also [Microsoft Windows Explorer - '.png' Image Local Denial of Service](https://www.exploit-db.com/exploits/30619/).
These were all Windows exploits.
A search on the [Exploit Database Archive](https://www.exploit-db.com/)
for "android image" has not found any exploits,
while a search for "windows image" has found several.
So no worry for Android - these image exploits are specific to Windows.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/10/13 | 796 | 3,143 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Nokia 6 and whenever I try to unlock my device I am facing error.
The command
```
sudo fastboot oem unlock
```
The result
```
(remote: oem unlock is not allowed)
```
Any suggestions?<issue_comment>username_1: As of today, no malware for Android, or one of the popular messengers that exploits images, is publicly known, so you can open images and be fairly certain that nothing bad will happen. All the warnings I saw in the past were just fakes or originated by ["scareware"](https://nakedsecurity.sophos.com/2013/05/31/android-malware-in-pictures-a-blow-by-blow-account-of-mobile-scareware/) (security scanners which give you false malware reports).
Theoretically it would be possible, [here's a scientific paper with a proof of concept](https://www.blackhat.com/docs/eu-14/materials/eu-14-Apvrille-Hide-Android-Applications-In-Images-wp.pdf) from 2014 "Hide Android Applications in Images" by Apvrille/Albertini if you want to know the details. There are also multiple articles which are easier to read about the paper, such as this [blog entry](https://www.expressvpn.com/blog/android-users-find-malware-in-image-files/). But again, as of today, no malware is knowm that utilized or utilizes images on Android.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Your comment about Windows is probably referring to WMF images, which aren't exactly 'normal' image files. They can contain actual natively executable code, including being able to make some very low-level calls directly into the graphics drivers. Most other image formats only contain actual image data (and usually some metadata about things like what color correction to do, what time the image was created, etc).
In theory, it's still possible to exploit normal image files though. There have been a number of vulnerabilities over the years in various image handling libraries that could be used as starting points for actual ACE exploits (though the full exploit is likely to be platform specific). These all just required an image to be processed by the library (so, displayed in an application that uses the vulnerable library).
However, it's a pretty unlikely attack vector for any realistic malware. Coding an image that can exploit these issues and doesn't immediately arouse suspicion (either due to the size of the file, ro the lack of any content) is pretty hard, and given that these bugs tend to get patched very quickly, probably wouldn't be worth the effort long-term.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: No, this is not possible (as far as is currently known).
The exploit you are referring to is perhaps the
[Windows Metafile vulnerability](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_Metafile_vulnerability).
There was also [Microsoft Windows Explorer - '.png' Image Local Denial of Service](https://www.exploit-db.com/exploits/30619/).
These were all Windows exploits.
A search on the [Exploit Database Archive](https://www.exploit-db.com/)
for "android image" has not found any exploits,
while a search for "windows image" has found several.
So no worry for Android - these image exploits are specific to Windows.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/10/14 | 626 | 2,661 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to listen to online videos with my mobile phone in my pocket, but there is always something to touch the screen and interrupt the stream.
The only solution I know is to download and save the broadcast or video on my phone before listening to it with a video player app which can be screen locked.
The issue is that I don't want to download any YouTube video before listening to it, so I'd like to find a way that can keep screen locked while playing a video.<issue_comment>username_1: There is no way you can play a video on YouTube and lock your phone or minimize the app (in case you are using its mobile app) unless you subscribe to YouTube Premium. <https://www.youtube.com/premium>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You can try to use an alternative to the default YouTube app, a popular choice being [NewPipe](https://newpipe.schabi.org/ "NewPipe"). Although I haven't tested this myself yet, one of the listed features is being able to play videos in the background - even just the sound, without having to waste battery by displaying something you dom't actually care about.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Firefox for Android had that ability. Due to Google making some requirements, it was disabled, but there's an addon which you can install in a second and that's all you need to continue playing YouTube in the background or when the screen is locked.
1. Download [Firefox for Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.mozilla.firefox&hl=en)
2. Install [Video Background Play Fix addon](https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/video-background-play-fix/).
Firefox should be able to continue playing videos after you have installed the addon and enabled it. Just to ensure that if your phone has a background activity manager (which kills background apps), you should whitelist Firefox so that it continues to work in the background.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: There is a solution, if you want to listen YouTube song even when your android phone is locked. To do that you have to use chrome browser in android phone. Open YouTube in chrome browser and request as Desktop Site and search for the song which you want to listen then minimise it. The song will be paused then, from the notification you can tap on the play(▶). By doing this you will be able to listen YouTube videos in your phone even if it is locked.
I hope this will help you.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Try [Youtube Vanced](https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/apps-games/app-youtube-vanced-edition-t3758757). You can listen to any video while your phone's screen is locked.
Upvotes: -1 |
2018/10/16 | 654 | 2,768 | <issue_start>username_0: I use google calendar and one of my calendars within google calendar does not sync to my android phone. The calendar shows in google calendar, and syncs correctly with my desktop software (Fantastical for Mac). On my phone, I can see the calendar under Settings > Accounts and Calendar folders, but the calendar is greyed out. So the phone know that the calendar is there, but is not downloading the events. Does anyone know how to 'activate' this? (NB I have quite a few calendars withing Google calendar. Is there an upper limit?)
Thanks
(PS Device = Blackberry Keyone).<issue_comment>username_1: There is no way you can play a video on YouTube and lock your phone or minimize the app (in case you are using its mobile app) unless you subscribe to YouTube Premium. <https://www.youtube.com/premium>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You can try to use an alternative to the default YouTube app, a popular choice being [NewPipe](https://newpipe.schabi.org/ "NewPipe"). Although I haven't tested this myself yet, one of the listed features is being able to play videos in the background - even just the sound, without having to waste battery by displaying something you dom't actually care about.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Firefox for Android had that ability. Due to Google making some requirements, it was disabled, but there's an addon which you can install in a second and that's all you need to continue playing YouTube in the background or when the screen is locked.
1. Download [Firefox for Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.mozilla.firefox&hl=en)
2. Install [Video Background Play Fix addon](https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/video-background-play-fix/).
Firefox should be able to continue playing videos after you have installed the addon and enabled it. Just to ensure that if your phone has a background activity manager (which kills background apps), you should whitelist Firefox so that it continues to work in the background.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: There is a solution, if you want to listen YouTube song even when your android phone is locked. To do that you have to use chrome browser in android phone. Open YouTube in chrome browser and request as Desktop Site and search for the song which you want to listen then minimise it. The song will be paused then, from the notification you can tap on the play(▶). By doing this you will be able to listen YouTube videos in your phone even if it is locked.
I hope this will help you.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Try [Youtube Vanced](https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/apps-games/app-youtube-vanced-edition-t3758757). You can listen to any video while your phone's screen is locked.
Upvotes: -1 |
2018/10/16 | 741 | 3,067 | <issue_start>username_0: Recently purchased a Oneplus One second hand from eBay.
It was factory reset by previous owner, and it has since been factory reset by me a couple of times.
I have setup Google Photo's today and it's pulled in all my photo's like it should. However, it has also resurfaced all the previous owners photos and is currently backing them up to my Google Photos account!
When i look at the info on the images, it seems it's dragged them in from 'storage/emulated/0'
I wouldn't normally be bothered by something like this but these photo's contain enough information for some serious fraud/identity theft!
I have pictures of addresses, passports, credit cards, tax bills ....
How is this possible? Surely a factory reset should wipe all data?
For clarity, the phone is running stock Android 5, but is rooted (supersu) and running TWRP (both installed by previous owner).<issue_comment>username_1: There is no way you can play a video on YouTube and lock your phone or minimize the app (in case you are using its mobile app) unless you subscribe to YouTube Premium. <https://www.youtube.com/premium>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You can try to use an alternative to the default YouTube app, a popular choice being [NewPipe](https://newpipe.schabi.org/ "NewPipe"). Although I haven't tested this myself yet, one of the listed features is being able to play videos in the background - even just the sound, without having to waste battery by displaying something you dom't actually care about.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Firefox for Android had that ability. Due to Google making some requirements, it was disabled, but there's an addon which you can install in a second and that's all you need to continue playing YouTube in the background or when the screen is locked.
1. Download [Firefox for Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.mozilla.firefox&hl=en)
2. Install [Video Background Play Fix addon](https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/video-background-play-fix/).
Firefox should be able to continue playing videos after you have installed the addon and enabled it. Just to ensure that if your phone has a background activity manager (which kills background apps), you should whitelist Firefox so that it continues to work in the background.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: There is a solution, if you want to listen YouTube song even when your android phone is locked. To do that you have to use chrome browser in android phone. Open YouTube in chrome browser and request as Desktop Site and search for the song which you want to listen then minimise it. The song will be paused then, from the notification you can tap on the play(▶). By doing this you will be able to listen YouTube videos in your phone even if it is locked.
I hope this will help you.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Try [Youtube Vanced](https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/apps-games/app-youtube-vanced-edition-t3758757). You can listen to any video while your phone's screen is locked.
Upvotes: -1 |
2018/10/18 | 1,324 | 5,334 | <issue_start>username_0: I enabled google backup on my galaxy S8 this morning. Photos synced in a few minutes, but all other items ("App data", "Call history", "Contacts" etc) have a message under them reading "Waiting to back up".
Under what conditions does the google backup start for these other items?
* The phone is connected to Wi-Fi
* The battery full battery
* All OS updates are installed (or those that I've been prompted to)
* No power-saving features are enabled
* Tried attaching to recharger
* Tried rebooting
* Tried disabling/re-enabling backup
Is there something else I'm missing? Perhaps there is a setting somewhere to control *when* backup should be performed?<issue_comment>username_1: I have a few suggestions, it can depend on a few different other phone factors but it's worth trying these;
1) turn the "back up to google drive" off, close the settings application and switch the device off then back on and re-enable the sync
2) if you are using a wifi try using a mobile network/phone hotspot as an alternate wifi source
3) i've had it before when the google account needs to be signed out and in again to re-authorise the connection
4) depending on the manufacturer/android version, sometimes each section needs to be turned on to enable sync
5) again depending on the version, some have security features when the time & date has to be updated and location turned on (I haven't come across this one personally)
i hope one of these helps!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: **TL;DR**
In general it should be enough to leave your phone on charge, with Wi-Fi available overnight to trigger backup.
Unfortunately, bug reports from users indicate that google have had issues for some time with backups not being scheduled. We might guess that these issues have either not been prioritised, have been too difficult to fix, have been fixed and reoccured due to poor quality code or whatever.
---
**Google cloud backup has been broken since 2016**
My best guess is that my particular problem is a bug from 2016 that is still to be fixed (see [this post](https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/phone-by-google/ZK3EkGkvuLA)). The answer in the linked post from a google employee says,
>
> We have been investigating why some devices are rarely (or never)
> attempt to back up and have identified a bug within the backup
> scheduler. We're working on fix for upcoming Google Play Services
> release. We are not sure yet if this is the only issue, so will
> continue the investigation.
>
>
>
There are no further updates.
**Meeting backup criteria (excluding the condition that bugs need to be fixed)**
Regarding my question about what conditions will allow backup to continue, the same answer from the google employee provides some useful information:
>
> Meeting backup criteria
>
>
> Our main backup mechanism (K/V Backup)
> covers call history, device settings and a small subset of apps and
> will upload over any network connection and without requiring the
> phone to be idle and charging. However, our newer mechanism (Auto
> Backup for Apps) covers SMS and apps (~25% covered) is restricted to
> the device being on Wifi, idle and charging. The reason for that was
> that we theoretically can get up to 25MB of data to backup per app and
> that would not have a terribly positive effect on your data usage (for
> those who don't have the luxury of an unlimited data plan). We are
> working resolving this, in all likelihood by:
>
>
> a) providing an option in settings to be more aggressive to backup,
> e.g. allowing it even when the device is not charging (but on Wifi)
>
>
> b)
> allowing manual trigger of a backup in settings
>
>
> c) providing warnings
> when backups haven't happened for a number of days
>
>
>
It seems that neither the bug fixes nor the proposed improvements have materialised, and so we might conclude that google gives cloud backup relatively low priority. Or I guess it could be that the backup code is horrific and takes an inordinate amount of time to modify and debug. Your guess is as good as mine.
On my new phone most items eventually got backed up (after about 24 hours). Now only *Contacts* are waiting for backup, so obviously something still isn't right, but for best results you could do worse than:
* Make sure you're device is on Wi-Fi
* Make sure that the charger is connected
* Make sure your phone is idle
This last point is a little ambiguous. I imagine it to mean that you shouldn't be actively using your phone for some unspecified amount of time, but it's not clear to me whether stuff running in the background using CPU might affect the "idle" determination.
Without any better information available, you would imagine that leaving your phone on charge, with Wi-Fi available overnight ought to be enough to trigger backup.
**Untested workaround**
For those who feel sufficiently motivated, a workaround (one that I have not attempted myself) is to use adb to force a backup:
```
adb shell
bmgr run
bmgr backupnow --all
```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: As I just discovered, on a Note 8, screen lock seems to disable backup - including greying out the "backup now" button. Disable screen locking and everything works. Re-enable locking, and no backup. Kind of strange.
Upvotes: 3 |
2018/10/18 | 605 | 2,164 | <issue_start>username_0: The `adb pull /system/media/audio` command works on one of my phones to copy the folder to my PC, it copies the folder's contents recursively.
However, on my other phone the USB connector is broken, and the phone cannot get a USB data connection. The phone is not rooted and it's impossible to root without losing data. The apps *FolderSync*, *ES File Explorer* and *ASTRO File Manager* can't see the */system* folder: they see */* as empty.
My plan was (1) to use a file manager to copy the contents of */system/media/audio* to */sdcard/audio*, and then (2) to use *FolderSync* to copy */sdcard/audio* to Google Drive. Step (1) doesn't work, I haven't found any app so far which is able to see */system*. Also running ADB over TCP would require rooting the phone, which is not possible (because I don't want to lose data and settings).
Is there a way to copy */system/media/audio* from this phone to my PC?<issue_comment>username_1: Setup an FTP server. I used [this app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.theolivetree.ftpserver). I set the login to anonymous, HOME directory to root (/) and started the server. I logged in to the server using my PC (used Linux; Windows natively supports FTP access too - try the answer [here](https://superuser.com/a/88572/423702) from Ashok). If you get into issues in using your File explorer to access FTP server, then simply fire up your browser and access the URL directly. It would be like `ftp://IP_ADDRESS:PORT`. Make sure to remain within the same Wi-Fi.
At first, I logged in successfully (Code 200) but naturally didn't see anything in FTP server (an unprivileged user). But I edited the URL to directly jump into /system/ and it did load successfully, all without root too. My URL was `ftp://192.168.0.18:9999/system/`.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: What about using Termux and copy those files like this?
```
cp -R /system/media/audio /sdcard/system_audio
```
and then you can pull `system_audio` from your storage as usual.
For most ROMs, you'll want to grant storage permission tovTermux first:
```
termux-setup-storage
```
and tap "Grant".
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/10/18 | 426 | 1,459 | <issue_start>username_0: My android tablet has 4.4.2 kitkat. The option 'move to sd card' is missing from all apps. The internal memory is 2GB and the sd card is 16GB. Is there any way to move apps to sd card? My tablet is rooted.<issue_comment>username_1: Setup an FTP server. I used [this app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.theolivetree.ftpserver). I set the login to anonymous, HOME directory to root (/) and started the server. I logged in to the server using my PC (used Linux; Windows natively supports FTP access too - try the answer [here](https://superuser.com/a/88572/423702) from Ashok). If you get into issues in using your File explorer to access FTP server, then simply fire up your browser and access the URL directly. It would be like `ftp://IP_ADDRESS:PORT`. Make sure to remain within the same Wi-Fi.
At first, I logged in successfully (Code 200) but naturally didn't see anything in FTP server (an unprivileged user). But I edited the URL to directly jump into /system/ and it did load successfully, all without root too. My URL was `ftp://192.168.0.18:9999/system/`.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: What about using Termux and copy those files like this?
```
cp -R /system/media/audio /sdcard/system_audio
```
and then you can pull `system_audio` from your storage as usual.
For most ROMs, you'll want to grant storage permission tovTermux first:
```
termux-setup-storage
```
and tap "Grant".
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/10/20 | 487 | 1,804 | <issue_start>username_0: I would like to install whatsapp on my Huawei android tablet but get the message (as others have ) stating ' your device is not compatible'.
Searching the internet it seems that you can bypass things and get it installed. However it seems the only way to do it is to all apps from unknown sources. My problem is I am not happy in what you appear to be doing ie withdrawing security and allowing apps from unknown sources.
Does anyone know if it really is safeand will not allow the tablet to add peculiar and potentially other unwanted app
thanks<issue_comment>username_1: Setup an FTP server. I used [this app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.theolivetree.ftpserver). I set the login to anonymous, HOME directory to root (/) and started the server. I logged in to the server using my PC (used Linux; Windows natively supports FTP access too - try the answer [here](https://superuser.com/a/88572/423702) from Ashok). If you get into issues in using your File explorer to access FTP server, then simply fire up your browser and access the URL directly. It would be like `ftp://IP_ADDRESS:PORT`. Make sure to remain within the same Wi-Fi.
At first, I logged in successfully (Code 200) but naturally didn't see anything in FTP server (an unprivileged user). But I edited the URL to directly jump into /system/ and it did load successfully, all without root too. My URL was `ftp://192.168.0.18:9999/system/`.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: What about using Termux and copy those files like this?
```
cp -R /system/media/audio /sdcard/system_audio
```
and then you can pull `system_audio` from your storage as usual.
For most ROMs, you'll want to grant storage permission tovTermux first:
```
termux-setup-storage
```
and tap "Grant".
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/10/20 | 836 | 2,756 | <issue_start>username_0: For custom ROMs like LineageOS, the more specific device names are used. So e.g. the Xiaomi Redmi Note 5 is called [whyred](https://download.lineageos.org/whyred) or Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge goes [hero2lte](https://download.lineageos.org/hero2lte). Having some experience in Android and custom ROMs, I don't know how to find out device names based on the colloquially used device names (Redmi Note 5 -> whyred).
Neither in specs on e.g. shop sites, nor in the device info. Let's look at the device info of a Xiaomi Redmi Note 5 Pro:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/P4BQP.jpg)
I only see `M1803E7SG` as the model name here but does not match the device name used for custom ROMs. Especially on Xiaomi, it's a big mess to get rich in different models or editions. Sometimes a single model is not equal across different regions.
For `M1803E7SG`, I found [this article](https://www.notebookcheck.net/Test-Xiaomi-Redmi-Note-5-Smartphone.313368.0.html) which says:
>
> For reference, our review unit is the M1803E7SG. This is also known a the Redmi Note 5 AI Dual Camera. It is neither the Redmi 5 Plus, which is listed as the Redmi Note 5 on Xiaomi's Mi website, nor is it the Redmi Note 5 Pro either. All three devices are powered by a Qualcomm Snapdragon 636 SoC, but they feature different camera hardware and memory options among other differences.
>
>
>
So, is this a flashable device for TWRP/LineageOS? I'm really confused now and would like to see the device name for this smartphone.<issue_comment>username_1: For simplicity, you can either find the device codename from the [official Xiaomi forum](http://en.miui.com/thread-644392-1-1.html) (which I believe is constantly updated). You can also use a third-party tool [Device ID](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.redphx.deviceid) to get your device codename:

Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Xiaomi specific
===============
Dial `*#*#64663#*#*` and use `1 Check version info`. Near *Camera information* you can see the codename.
Vendor unspecific
-----------------
You could use Device ID as xavier\_fakerat already suggested. But I also found [aida64](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.finalwire.aida64) which seems more verbose as you can see much more details about the device instead of only seeing the Device ID. But if you're really just want the codename, the Device Id app works well.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: If you have access to a terminal (either adb or a terminal app) then just run:
```
getprop ro.product.device
```
or you can run `getprop` by itself to get all sorts of good information
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/10/21 | 844 | 3,054 | <issue_start>username_0: Few days ago my phone has started overheating and burning through the battery like crazy. I don't use it too much, and it used to last 1.5-2 days, now it's dead in 6 hours.
I've installed [System monitor lite](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cgollner.systemmonitor.lite%20System%20Monitor%20Lite) and it's showing that several of my cores are constantly at extremely high usage (over 80%), and various regular applications like Gmail and LinkedIn are shown spiking the CPU up to 20% each. I expected a single app to be doing something stupid, and after seeing which one it is, it would be simple to just remove it, but that's not the case. It turns out that a bunch of regular apps that I haven't opened in days are going crazy.
Here are some screenshots:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZeLwQ.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6ZNHo.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/n1Vuf.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nSb8a.png)
So, any suggestions besides doing factory reset?
The phone in question is Xiaomi Redmi Note 4 running original MIUI without root.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<issue_comment>username_1: looking like you are on Chinese variant of RN4 with mediatek deca-core processor
If you feel like your phone is using too much cpu power than it is not the case [image showing cpu usage of asus zenfone max pro m1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyUOo.jpg)][1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyUOo.jpg)
here you can give a look at my device cpu usage. all 8 cores are working on a high frequency but still i am getting a great battery backup. so definitely it is not looking like a issue in cpu.
u can try resetting your device or can take help from a xiaomi care.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: A couple of things:
* Applications that show running processes are only able to show the user processes (meaning no kernel processes)
* Android gives more priority to the application in the foreground (the one you are currently seeing). When you open the the task manager, the other processes are being capped. The measuring you are trying to do influences the results.
If you can provide more details by measuring externally with one of these:
1. **Try installing Android Studio**:
2. **Post the Log Cat results**: 
3. **Or use the Android Debug Bridge** ([adb](https://developer.android.com/studio/command-line/adb)) with `adb logcat` – you can view your Android device’s log.
With one of these you can actually profile your running Android phone over a USB connection.
I don't think anyone can give you a complete direct answer without some more information, except if maybe they had the exact same model number and issue.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/10/22 | 531 | 2,114 | <issue_start>username_0: In old Android versions, I would commonly go to view my battery percentage in the options to make sure that none of the apps running in the background were burning out the battery. In Android Pie, however, this is gone from the battery screen in settings. It used to be at the bottom of the settings screen, but it is no longer there.
Has this moved somewhere else in Android Pie? I can't find it.<issue_comment>username_1: looking like you are on Chinese variant of RN4 with mediatek deca-core processor
If you feel like your phone is using too much cpu power than it is not the case [image showing cpu usage of asus zenfone max pro m1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyUOo.jpg)][1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyUOo.jpg)
here you can give a look at my device cpu usage. all 8 cores are working on a high frequency but still i am getting a great battery backup. so definitely it is not looking like a issue in cpu.
u can try resetting your device or can take help from a xiaomi care.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: A couple of things:
* Applications that show running processes are only able to show the user processes (meaning no kernel processes)
* Android gives more priority to the application in the foreground (the one you are currently seeing). When you open the the task manager, the other processes are being capped. The measuring you are trying to do influences the results.
If you can provide more details by measuring externally with one of these:
1. **Try installing Android Studio**:
2. **Post the Log Cat results**: 
3. **Or use the Android Debug Bridge** ([adb](https://developer.android.com/studio/command-line/adb)) with `adb logcat` – you can view your Android device’s log.
With one of these you can actually profile your running Android phone over a USB connection.
I don't think anyone can give you a complete direct answer without some more information, except if maybe they had the exact same model number and issue.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/10/23 | 233 | 908 | <issue_start>username_0: I'd like to try out the dark screen mode on my Galaxy J7 max but the option has been greyed out and I was wondering why. Any clues? This option is found under Accessibility>Vision
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9pYaX.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: If you turn on the talk back feature, dark screen will work but if you turn talk back off, dark screen stops working. I think this is because it was only made for the purpose of privacy for people who have bad vision and need talk back.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: 1. Make sure that your device is updated to at least Android 10.
2. Slide down the notification and settings shade.
3. Depending on how you've organized your system settings in the pulldown menu, you may need to swipe over a screen to see the dark mode setting (it has a moon icon).
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/10/23 | 1,023 | 4,139 | <issue_start>username_0: When traveling internationally, it's often a good idea to put the phone in Airplane Mode before departure, activate wi-fi as needed, and leave the phone in Airplane Mode until returning to one's home country where calls/messages/data are charged at reasonable rates.
When on wifi, the phone can still receive notice that a system update must be performed, soon, with no user choice in the matter. It can even download and install this update over wifi. However, as part of the update process, the phone apparently disables Airplane Mode, connecting to a local tower to receive messages and whatever else might have been pending, potentially racking up a big bill in the process, which the user did not agree to or want.
Leaving the phone in a Faraday cage during the update, which might block transmissions to cell towers, would cause the update to fail until it is taken out, because wifi is required for downloading the update.
**Why does the phone exit airplane mode during forced updates, and is there any way to avoid that?**
---
*Edit, responding to [criticism](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/203023/can-airplane-mode-be-maintained-during-a-system-update/213539?noredirect=1#comment273418_213539) that trying to maintain Airplane Mode during a system update is not a sufficiently clear or concrete objective:*
There are multiple reasons why one might want to keep a phone in airplane mode. In addition to the cost factor noted above, if a destination does not have compatible cellular signals, a phone out of Airplane Mode may quickly drain its battery searching for towers, especially if the user doesn't know that the phone takes itself out of airplane mode without notice. In some zones, there are also restrictions on cellular transmissions ([example](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_States_National_Radio_Quiet_Zone)) which do not necessarily apply to low-power wi-fi connectivity, such as on-board some commercial aircraft.
There are multiple different reasons why a person might be in a setting where it's important to maintain Airplane Mode but still wish to use the device for offline and/or Wi-Fi capabilities. This question is about how to do that even when the phone maker is pushing a system update.
I would expect "How do I do this for reason X?" "How do I do that for reason Y?" and "How do I do the same thing for reason Z?" to all be closed as duplicates of this same question.<issue_comment>username_1: If you want to block communication with your mobile network provider there is a second option: You just have to make sure the MNO can not identify your devices.
You can easily achieve that by **removing the SIM card from your device**.
This does not work of course in case you have a phone with eSIM and you use the eSIM (as the eSIM can't be removed physically from your device).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Turn off your Data and turn on "Flight Mode", now if Flight Mode gets reset you still have Data turned off (and Update won't reset that, because there would be a flood of complaints).
I have always done my updates over Wi-Fi using the settings to select that option. Using the Towers to Update would be expensive (for me).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/g637nl.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wyzdal.jpg)
I updated Android recently. No Data usage, and a big savings by only using Wi-Fi. Only turn on Data if you must use it. Of course it depends on where you are and how much open Wi-Fi is available.
Rather than "activate Wi-Fi as needed" you need to get into the habit of "active Data as infrequently as possible" and leave Wi-Fi on (so when you hit an open Network you'll be pinged that you have something).
Remember not to use your passwords on strange unknown Networks, Google has single-use passwords if you are desperate and double authentication to ensure that it is you on your phone and not someone else, elsewhere. More about that is a different question, almost certainly a dupe.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/10/23 | 734 | 3,024 | <issue_start>username_0: I have LG Rebel 2. It has started to crash and go right back to my home screen when I play 1 or 2 of my games, like SimCity BuildIt crashes on loading screens even though I'll only have one app running at a time.
What is causing this?<issue_comment>username_1: To answer the question, an application in an android phone crashes due to *low RAM* (random-access memory) which holds the processes of the certain app. If it runs low, then it forces the app/game to close to preserve other processes (the important ones especially the system processes).
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Base off of your description, it appears to be a RAM issue.
While 1GB RAM is usable for some games (from personal experience), some games will crash on the loading screen due to too little memory (I've experienced it with other games as well).
The best way to stop this is to lower the quality settings, if possible. Try Low or Very Low to use less RAM.
If that fails, try an app hibernating app like [Greenify.](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.oasisfeng.greenify) (This app works on non-rooted phones, but needs root in order to be more efficent). This will reduce the amount of background apps, freeing up more RAM.
If the above fails, try getting a better phone. There are a lot of phones on the market with 2GB RAM or more at the moment.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: according to your description, there may be several reasons:
1. Your Android phone has **too much cache**, and when the phone is too cached, the app will run slower and crash.
2. There are **too many running programs in the background** of your Android phone. The closed app just exits the desktop and is still running in the background.
3. The application is **not compatible with the system**. A low version of the app is not compatible with the phone's system, or the phone system version is too low that cannot play the game, which will cause a crash.
4. **Missing data package**. Crash is also caused by the lack of data packets when running the game. This can happen if the packet .obb file is deleted by mistake. Like most game of Gamaloft, if you lost .obb file, it will crash.
If you don't plan to change a mobile phone, you need to **clean your phone often**:
1. Navigate to Settings on your phone. Setting>>Apps>>Choose the app you don’t like>> uninstall or force stop.
2. Navigate to Settings on your phone. Setting>>Storage>>Cached Data.
3. Use **Agile File Manager** to free up your storage. It can simply delete cached files, along with miscellaneous files that are larger than 10 MB. The Boost option can closes apps you’re not using that are still running in the background.
4. The last thing to say is that for Android phones, restarting the phone can solve more than half of the problems. When your device has been running for a long time, and if it is a low-end phone. Rebooting the phone will erase all blocked apps and fix freezes and crashes on apps on Android devices.
Upvotes: -1 |
2018/10/24 | 1,150 | 4,164 | <issue_start>username_0: Until recently I had multilingual typing enabled on my keyboard. It was possible to swipe in German and English at the same keyboard without changing languages. The spacebar had "English - German" written on it.
Somehow it got accidentally turned off. Maybe by some gesture on the spacebar?
Now I can't figure out how to turn that feature on again.
The toggle used to turn it on in the keyboard settings is disabled and can't be turned on.

The hint says that multiple languages have to be enabled. But where can that be done?
On the languages screen there are already two languages. Unfortunately they are also separate keyboards and I always have to switch with the globe button.
<issue_comment>username_1: Based on the answer provided here [gboard disable multilingual typing](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/202155/gboard-disable-multilingual-typing), do the following:
Go to Settings> Languages & input> Virtual keyboard> Gboard> Languages. Select a language for example English, then enable Multilingual typing. Also select the other language you want to appear on the keyboard (in my case French)

Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Likely reason is that the second language you want is not installed in *language preferences*
* To do that go to System → Language and input →
language →
preference → add language (the one you want to be displayed on keyboard). If it is already there, remove and add ( You can tap and hold a language to change the order or remove language from the 3 dots menu on top right)
* Now check as in first screenshot (of your question ) to see if multi lingual option is shown ( it should be). Enable the option and tick the language.
* Long press or slide on space key to reveal option as shown and select the bilingual switch ( it is Telugu in first snapshot and TE in second ). Your keyboard should show as desired both languages. If it doesn't reboot and check
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yH5Kc.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wWOFj.png)
(Tap to enlarge)
**Edit** This didn't work for OP. Maybe the Gboard settings has *Show Language switch key* disabled (Language & input →Virtual keyboard →Gboard → Preferences →Show language switch key) . Enable that. Also see in this connection <https://android.stackexchange.com/a/165509>
**Edit2** OP found the setting to be enabled but problem continues so - 1. Update Gboard if available 2. If not, go to settings and from app info of Gboard clear cache and see if that helps; next, clear data of app ;also disable and enable app
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: This seems to be an incompatibility or bug in newer versions of Gboard. The issue was solved for me by uninstalling all updates for Gboard.
Go to system preferences -> "apps and notifications" -> "all apps" -> "Gboard". Choose the 3 dot icon on top right and select "uninstall all updates".
This downgraded Gboard to version `7.5.12.211120321-release` where it works. It doesn't work for me in the current
Gboard stable release (version `7.6.13.215505041-release`) nor in the current beta release (version `7.7.5.218156409-beta`).

Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: I tried switching to "German (Germany)" from "German (Austria)" in "Settings > System > Languages & Input > Virtual keyboard > Gboard > Languages" and it worked! Gboard version 7.8.7.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/22ZmI.png)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: I fixed this option by disabling Show emoji-switch key under Settings app > Languages & input > Virtual keyboard > GBoard > Preferences. Turn this off and the language icon will show up.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cUIls.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/10/26 | 744 | 2,508 | <issue_start>username_0: I am trying to root my Xiaom mi a2 phone. But i am stuck on changing the active partition. When i enter "fastboot set\_active b" it doesnt execute the command. Instead i get a list off all available commands which doesnt contain an option to change the active partition.
Console-Output
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jiCaz.png)
I am following this tutorial: [Tutorial](https://www.thecustomdroid.com/install-twrp-recovery-root-xiaomi-mi-a2-a2-lite/)<issue_comment>username_1: I tried a lot of things, nothing worked until i came across this:
[minimal-adb-and-fastboot-tool-for-windows](https://www.thecustomdroid.com/minimal-adb-and-fastboot-tool-for-windows/)
Now i was able to set the active partition and install the root. I got no errors and everything seemed fine but i still had no root access. I found this tutorial: [guide-how-to-root-xiaomi-mi-a2-magisk](https://forum.xda-developers.com/mi-a2/how-to/guide-how-to-root-xiaomi-mi-a2-magisk-t3831586) and it worked for me.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: First you need the actual fastboot, e.g. 1.4.3 (from [link in the other answer](https://www.thecustomdroid.com/minimal-adb-and-fastboot-tool-for-windows/)).
Then the correct command is:
```
fastboot --set-active=a
```
or:
```
fastboot --set-active=b
```
In the help (fastboot help) you can read in fastboot version 28.0.3:
```
--slot Specify slot name to be used if the
device supports slots. All operations
on partitions that support slots will
be done on the slot specified.
'all' can be given to refer to all
slots.'other' can be given to refer to
a non-current slot. If this flag is not
used, slotted partitions will default
to the current active slot.
-a, --set-active[=] Sets the active slot. If no slot is
provided, this will default to the
value given by --slot. If slots are
not supported, this does nothing.
This will run after all non-reboot
commands.
```
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: Well, the fastboot you are using is outdated.
You need to install the latest platform-tools from Android SDK which has the latest fastboot binaries.
This [link](https://dl.google.com/android/repository/platform-tools-latest-windows.zip) will always give you the latest ADB & fastboot for Windows.
For more information, here is [how to install ADB and fastboot on Windows](https://www.cyanogenmods.org/forums/topic/install-adb-fastboot-windows-drivers/).
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/10/27 | 1,770 | 5,796 | <issue_start>username_0: Recently, I purchased a used Nexus 5. I would like perform a full reset, so I’m trying to flash the factory image using Google’s official [instructions](https://developers.google.com/android/images).
However, I keep getting the message `FAILED (remote: 'Bogus size sparse and chunk header')` for the `Writing 'userdata'` step.
Am I doing something wrong, or is something wrong with the instructions or image from Google?
(Possibly) relevant info:
* I'm running macOS Mojave 10.14 (18A391) on my computer.
* I'm using fastboot from the Android SDK Platform-Tools version 28.0.1, installed using Android Studio 3.2.1.
* I tried the two most recent images of Android version 6.0.1 (M4B30X and M4B30Z), both give the same issue.
The full output of the flashing process can be seen here:
```
$ ./flash-all.sh
Sending 'bootloader' (3124 KB) OKAY [ 0.310s]
Writing 'bootloader' OKAY [ 0.516s]
Finished. Total time: 0.923s
rebooting into bootloader OKAY [ 0.108s]
Finished. Total time: 0.108s
Sending 'radio' (45489 KB) OKAY [ 1.640s]
Writing 'radio' OKAY [ 3.130s]
Finished. Total time: 4.867s
rebooting into bootloader OKAY [ 0.104s]
Finished. Total time: 0.104s
extracting android-info.txt (0 MB) to RAM...
--------------------------------------------
Bootloader Version...: HHZ20h
Baseband Version.....: M8974A-2.0.50.2.30
Serial Number........: ***redacted***
--------------------------------------------
Checking product OKAY [ 0.100s]
Checking version-bootloader OKAY [ 0.100s]
Checking version-baseband OKAY [ 0.100s]
extracting boot.img (8 MB) to disk... took 0.037s
archive does not contain 'boot.sig'
archive does not contain 'dtbo.img'
archive does not contain 'dt.img'
archive does not contain 'odm.img'
archive does not contain 'product.img'
archive does not contain 'product-services.img'
extracting recovery.img (9 MB) to disk... took 0.033s
archive does not contain 'recovery.sig'
archive does not contain 'super.img'
extracting system.img (996 MB) to disk... took 7.816s
archive does not contain 'system.sig'
archive does not contain 'vbmeta.img'
archive does not contain 'vendor.img'
mke2fs 1.44.3 (10-July-2018)
Creating filesystem with 7137786 4k blocks and 1785856 inodes
Filesystem UUID: aab8dc10-d114-48a0-b9dc-c7ebdd24c79d
Superblock backups stored on blocks:
32768, 98304, 163840, 229376, 294912, 819200, 884736, 1605632, 2654208,
4096000
Allocating group tables: done
Writing inode tables: done
Creating journal (32768 blocks): done
Writing superblocks and filesystem accounting information: done
mke2fs 1.44.3 (10-July-2018)
Creating filesystem with 179200 4k blocks and 44832 inodes
Filesystem UUID: 2d2b45ab-678b-43ba-8b3c-83827764dbc8
Superblock backups stored on blocks:
32768, 98304, 163840
Allocating group tables: done
Writing inode tables: done
Creating journal (4096 blocks): done
Writing superblocks and filesystem accounting information: done
Sending 'boot' (9154 KB) OKAY [ 0.510s]
Writing 'boot' OKAY [ 0.776s]
Sending 'recovery' (10012 KB) OKAY [ 0.564s]
Writing 'recovery' OKAY [ 0.832s]
Sending 'system' (1020665 KB) OKAY [ 36.364s]
Writing 'system' OKAY [ 69.147s]
Erasing 'userdata' OKAY [ 14.079s]
Sending 'userdata' (4272 KB) OKAY [ 0.360s]
Writing 'userdata' FAILED (remote: 'Bogus size sparse and chunk header')
Finished. Total time: 133.541s
```<issue_comment>username_1: I encounter the same problem today :)
flash-all script failed when writing userdata
I have managed to solve this issue by manually continue the flashing process:
```
1) extract image-hammerhead-m4b30z.zip
2) cd to the extracted folder
3) run the following commands (one by one)
fastboot erase userdata
fastboot flash userdata userdata.img
fastboot erase cache
fastboot flash cache cache.img
fastboot reboot
```
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: it's too late for this post, but I'm answering for anyone else finding this post
refer to this link <http://www.gandalfk7.it/2019/03/24/fastboot-too-old-and-error-cannot-generate-image-for-userdata/>
you must update your os platform tools and execute `sh flash-all.sh` after updating the platform set the PATH in your directory as this reference says
do these steps and like the link said and you will make it!
```
- download the newer platform-tools from https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.
- Decompress them with #unzip platform-tools_r28.0.2-linux.zip
a new platform-tools folder will be created
then in your folder where you have unzipped the factory default
- edit flash-all.sh and add this line on top:
export PATH=/home/YOURUSER/Downloads/platform-tools:$PATH
- in this way the script will search for executables in that folder, using the newer ones.
```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Heads up to anyone that finds this happening on a Nexus 7. Same problem except there's a secondary problem after explicitly specifying platform tools. Force flashing userdata doesn't allocate all the remaining space for userdata. Solution is to resize it afterward before first boot. If you try to resize after first boot you will get stuck in a boot loop and have to reflash everything.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/10/29 | 577 | 2,205 | <issue_start>username_0: How can I use multi window or another gesture to edit to Google keep notes at the same time. I'm on Android 7.0 Nougat. I know I can use multi window, although I would appreciate it if someone could kindly let me know how to being the second window up, but I don't know if you can have the same so, such as keep, in both windows, so as to achieve my goal.
Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: I encounter the same problem today :)
flash-all script failed when writing userdata
I have managed to solve this issue by manually continue the flashing process:
```
1) extract image-hammerhead-m4b30z.zip
2) cd to the extracted folder
3) run the following commands (one by one)
fastboot erase userdata
fastboot flash userdata userdata.img
fastboot erase cache
fastboot flash cache cache.img
fastboot reboot
```
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: it's too late for this post, but I'm answering for anyone else finding this post
refer to this link <http://www.gandalfk7.it/2019/03/24/fastboot-too-old-and-error-cannot-generate-image-for-userdata/>
you must update your os platform tools and execute `sh flash-all.sh` after updating the platform set the PATH in your directory as this reference says
do these steps and like the link said and you will make it!
```
- download the newer platform-tools from https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools.
- Decompress them with #unzip platform-tools_r28.0.2-linux.zip
a new platform-tools folder will be created
then in your folder where you have unzipped the factory default
- edit flash-all.sh and add this line on top:
export PATH=/home/YOURUSER/Downloads/platform-tools:$PATH
- in this way the script will search for executables in that folder, using the newer ones.
```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Heads up to anyone that finds this happening on a Nexus 7. Same problem except there's a secondary problem after explicitly specifying platform tools. Force flashing userdata doesn't allocate all the remaining space for userdata. Solution is to resize it afterward before first boot. If you try to resize after first boot you will get stuck in a boot loop and have to reflash everything.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/10/30 | 720 | 2,339 | <issue_start>username_0: In Android Studio, I can successfully do a clean build, but every time I try Run, I see the "Select Deployment Target" window say Initializing ADB, but then in Connected Devices I see .
I can create a Virtual Device, but after creating it I can't see it in the Connected Devices window. If I go to Android Virtual Device Manager I can see the new device and several others I have created.
I can open terminal and run adb connect 192.168.1.229 (my device's wifi IP) and get a connection. Then I can run adb devices and see it listed. But still the Connected Devices does not show it.
The idea.log repeats the following:
```
2018-10-29 18:36:00,808 [st Monitor] WARN - #com.android.ddmlib - Unable to open connection to: localhost/192.168.1.43:5037, due to: java.net.ConnectException: Operation timed out
2018-10-29 18:36:00,808 [st Monitor] WARN - #com.android.ddmlib - Connection attempts: 12
2018-10-29 18:36:00,825 [st Monitor] INFO - #com.android.ddmlib - adb restarted
2018-10-29 18:37:17,045 [st Monitor] WARN - #com.android.ddmlib - Unable to open connection to: localhost/192.168.1.43:5037, due to: java.net.ConnectException: Operation timed out
```
I have no idea why it is trying 192.168.1.43 and there does not seem to be a server running there. Is this a setting I have to change?
Attempted fixes:
* kill the adb server
* restart Android studio
* restart laptop
* upgrade Android Studio and reinstall with default settings rather than keeping my old ones
System Details:
* OSX 10.13.6
* Android Studio 3.2.1
* Android Debug Bridge version 1.0.40 Version 4986621<issue_comment>username_1: I think I have the same problem,I found the key is my localhost's IP has changed,so android studio can't connect to the right IP.
Just edit /etc/hosts input this:
127.0.0.1 localhost
and restart Android studio,the problem resoved.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: For posterity the answer was that localhost had been reassigned. I discovered this by typing "ping localhost" at the terminal. The solution was to add a line in etc/hosts, as Chappie said. I have still not been able to figure out what caused it to be reassigned, nor how. Warning that reassigning your localhost could cause some programs to cease working correctly.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/10/30 | 2,564 | 8,948 | <issue_start>username_0: *This was posted on MSE originally.*
Please note that my only training in programming of any kind is in the context of mathematics, specifically group theory. Thus, please use minimal technical language.
The Problem:
------------
>
> I'm trying to get [GAP](https://www.gap-system.org) on my Android phone.
>
>
>
(I'm using a ZTE Blade V8. I doubt that matters.
**Update:** I'm using a Samsung Galaxy A40 these days.)
What I have so far:
-------------------
I found on the [GAP forum](https://mail.gap-system.org/pipermail/forum/2012/003823.html) that someone called Matan Ziv-Av compiled a version of GAP for Android that can be found [here](http://my.svgalib.org) (and more specifically [here](http://my.svgalib.org/android/)).
[This](http://my.svgalib.org/android/gap.announce.html) explains something I don't understand.
I have downloaded the latest file, last updated in 2015 (so it's gap4r6), but, upon opening it with RAR, I have been unable thus far to run the programme.
Here is a screenshot of the file I think I need to click on to get started:
(Click image to enlarge it)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/acswP.jpg)
I can't seem to get it working.
Please help :)
Edit:
-----
Using Termux with the file in the screenshot above, I got this:
(Click image to enlarge it)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/muG6V.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Since GAP is open-source you can download the sources and compile them on device in termux or another terminal emulator (though other terminal emulators don't provide the compilation tools AFAIK).
There are quite detailed compilation instructions in the "README.buildsys.md" file in the gap source directory, have a look at that for some more details.
Here are the steps I did to compile it (after opening a termux shell), lines starting with "#" are comments and are hence suppose to help you understand what the following line(s) does.
```
# Install programs needed to compile gap
pkg install make clang m4
# Install some optional dependencies that probably enhance your gap experience
apt install readline-dev libgmp-dev
# Download sources
wget https://www.gap-system.org/pub/gap/gap-4.10/tar.gz/gap-4.10.0.tar.gz
# Extract sources and change to that folder
tar -xf gap-4.10.0
cd gap-4.10.0
# Create a build folder to keep source directory clean
mkdir build
cd build
# Configure the package, if you want special features you probably want to change this line
../configure
# Compile the package
make
# Run GAP!
./gap
```
Please let me know if you run into any errors (I might have missed some dependencies) or if I should explain something in more details.
Also note that you have to compile and run gap from termux's folder structure (`/data/data/com.termux/files/`), android doesn't allow executable files in the shared storage (like the external and internal sdcard).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This is how I got it to run.
I'm using the download from here [GAP for Android](http://my.svgalib.org/android/gap.announce.html)
Preparations:
In termux type `termux-setup-storage` when prompted to give termux storage permission select allow. This is to give access to the sdcard in termux.
1. Make sure your connected to the internet.
2. In termux, type `pkg install wget` press enter.
3. Now to download the file type `wget my.svgalib.org/android/gap4r5-1.tar.gz` then hit enter.
4. Extract the file type `tar -zxf gap4r5-1.tar.gz` hit enter.
5. Type `cd gap4r5` hit enter.
6. Now we need to make a couple of changes to the script for it to run on termux. We will copy it to the sdcard Download file to be able to edit it. type `cp gap.sh /storage/emulated/0/Download/` hit enter.
7. Now open the file gap.sh in a text editor, I used [Notepad++ for Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.woop.notepad). This file is in your Download folder.
8. Edit line #1 to look like this `#!/data/data/com.termux/files/usr/bin/bash`
9. Edit line #23 to look like this `GAP_DIR="$( cd "$( dirname "${BASH_SOURCE[0]}" )" >/dev/null && pwd )"` **Its very important on this line to have the spaces exactly where they are and nowhere else.** then save the file. (Thanks for this line goes to <NAME> at this post [Getting the source directory of a Bash script from within](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/59895/getting-the-source-directory-of-a-bash-script-from-within))
10. Go back to termux and type `cp /storage/emulated/0/Download/gap.sh .` (the period at the end is important) and hit enter.
11. Now you are ready to start using the program. to run the program make sure you are in the folder gap4r5 and type `./gap.sh`. (To get to this folder when you start termux type `cd gap4r5` or wherever you are in termux type `cd` hit enter and type `cd gap4r5` and hit enter).
Good Luck!
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: **2023-08 Update**
Only use Termux from [F-Droid](https://f-droid.org/en/packages/com.termux/) or the [github repository](https://github.com/termux/termux-app/releases) as the version from Google Play store is no longer supported.
Be aware that Termux may be unstable on Android 12+, as `Android OS will kill any (phantom) processes greater than 32 (limit is for all apps combined) and also kill any processes using excessive CPU`. See [README section for details and links to workarounds](https://github.com/termux/termux-app#readme)
**0. Uninstall Google Play Store Termux**
* If Termux was installed from Google Play Store, save important data off of device. (If you don't have any important data, skip this step).
* Delete the Google Play Store version of Termux
**1. Install F-Droid**
When Termux updates, it will be easier to manage from F-Droid so first install F-Droid
* In your mobile browser go to <https://f-droid.org/>
* Click on "Download F-Droid"
* Install F-Droid by clicking on the downloaded package. Note if Android prompts you to "Open with", choose 'Package installer'
If you are having difficulty installing F-Droid, follow Step 2 to see if your browser is enabled to "Install Unknown Apps" and allow.
**2. Give Install permission to F-Droid**
* Go into Settings -> Search (magnifying glass icon)
* In search bar type in "Install Unknown Apps"
* Tap on "Install unknown apps *Apps > Special app access*"
* On the "Special access" / "Special app access" screen scroll down to "Install unknown apps" and click
* On the "Install unknown apps" screen look for F-Droid and click
* For the "F-Droid" app, enable "Allow from this source"
**3. Install Termux from F-Droid**
* Open F-Droid
* Tap the green search action button in the lower right.
* Type in "Termux"
* Tap on the one that reads "Termux Terminal emulator with packages" Note on the app store page there should be 'Versions' expandable which should have 0.118.0 or higher.
* Install Termux
You should now have Termux in your list of available apps.
**4. Launching and upgrading Termux packages**
* Launch Termux
Linux distributions support package management so the easiest way to install is via a package manager. Termux uses one as well which is documented in the [wiki](https://wiki.termux.com/wiki/Package_Management).
Following the wiki use the command highlighted in grey:
* $`pkg upgrade`
Answer with 'Yes' to upgrades unless there is a known conflict with an existing installed package.
**4a. Check if the software package already exists**
As building from source takes storage space and knowledge it is best to check if what you are looking for already exists as a package.
Running the command in Termux:
* $`pkg search gap`
Listed out
>
> gap/stable 4.12.2 aarch64
>
>
> Gap is a system for computational discrete algebra, with particular emphasis on Computational Group Theory
>
>
> gap-packages/stable 4.12.2 all
>
>
> Packages for gap
>
>
> gap-static/stable 4.12.2 aarch64
>
>
> Static libraries for gap
>
>
>
**5. Install software package**
Run the command
* $`pkg install gap`
and enter 'Yes' you want to install. Should install gap at a cost of around 204 MB.
**6. Run software package**
Run `gap` as in other Linux/Unix-like environments
* $`gap`
**7. Leave Termux**
Termux when you swipe away will maintain the session and have a status bar notification telling the user that it is still running to keep its state.
Removing the notification requires stopping Termux from running. To end Termux just execute
* $`exit`
**Notes**
Termux behaves similar to a Linux/Unix-like system but out of the box you are limited to storing things within Termux app itself.
Do check the [Termux Wiki](https://wiki.termux.com/wiki/Main_Page) to get familiar. If needed there are other [Development environments](https://wiki.termux.com/wiki/Development_Environments) available for Termux.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2018/10/30 | 273 | 1,020 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently formatted the sd-card as internal on my Android 7.1.2 (LineageOS 14.1).
Now the camera app is showing an error message that it can't access the sd-card anymore. The error message is: "couldn't access sd card".
I can't find the setting to change the storage folder of the camera app.
Does anybody have an idea how to fix that?<issue_comment>username_1: Meanwhile I found the solution. In the app settings I had to delete the app data and cache.
That set the settings back to default which solved the issue.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Encountered the same issue on MIUI 172.16.31.10 stable, solved by allowing the *usage access* permission for the camera app. [(source)](https://xiaomi.eu/community/threads/couldnt-access-sd-card-error-in-camera-solved.54376/)
edit: and you do it by opening the Settings app, enter passwords and security, privacy, special application access, usage access, choose the (native) camera app, and permit usage access.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/10/30 | 873 | 3,410 | <issue_start>username_0: I use an ambient sound app through headphones while I sleep. This usually works quite well, except for the occasional night where i get woken up because Android has decided to drop the volume and display a message to the effect of "Listening at high volume for a long time can damage your hearing." I haven't managed to transcribe the exact wording yet because I'm usually grumpy and attempting to get back to sleep when it happens. I'm fairly certain that it can be displayed more than once per reboot cycle, as it was displayed last night despite my having used the phone this way numerous nights over the past couple weeks. (`uptime` currently shows 13 days.)
FWIW, I'm probably risking permanent hearing damage by doing this, but that seems a better bet than the certain negative effects (acuity, mood, cancer) of chronic sleep deprivation.
Is there a way to disable this "feature", with or without root?<issue_comment>username_1: According to the article [How to Automatically Disable the High Volume Warning without Root](https://www.xda-developers.com/how-to-automatically-disable-the-high-volume-warning-without-root/), the warning is implemented on devices due to European legislation which stipulates that:
>
> all electronic devices capable of media playback sold after February 2013 must have a default output volume level of a maximum 85 dB. Users can choose to override the warning to increase the volume to a maximum of 100 dB, but in doing so the warning must re-appear after 20 hours of music playback.
>
>
>
(The warning should only appear if your device is using an European ROM)
It is possible to disable the warning by following the methods below:
1. **On rooted devices**
If you have the Xposed framework installed, there are several modules (VolumeSteps+ (image on the left), NoSafeVolumeWarning, GravityBox (image on the right), etc) that offer the option to disable the warning.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNUa9.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aJnaf.png)
2. **On non-rooted devices**
The article above describes methods for disabling the warning using Tasker & AutoTools
either at boot or periodically. It also has a link to download the Tasker's scripts.
In other forums, the app [Hearing Saver](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jakebasile.android.hearingsaver&hl=en_ZA) is purported to work on non-rooted devices.
You can also go to Settings --> Apps --> Your\_App --> Notifications --> enable `Block Notifications`
Note: I don't use Tasker that is why I have not included the process decribed in the article. However, those who are more knowledgeable with it can include the steps.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: On Samsung Galaxy S9, go to Settings, Sounds and vibration, Volume, and then click on the menu button on the top right-hand corner. The only option is the Media volume limiter. Default is turned off and the Custom volume limit is about 2/3 of the way but grayed out. Turn the setting to On and you can now slide the volume all the way up to the max.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: My fix for the volume has been to superglue the volume up button so it is always turning volume up. Then root the phone and remove the code in the kernel that activates the warning.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/10/31 | 1,141 | 4,254 | <issue_start>username_0: By battery insertion I mean current flowing on the battery pins, **not** the micro USB port.
**Description**
The phone in question is a Samsung Galaxy Xcover 4, the **bootloader** is **unlocked**, and I have **root access**. Its intended purpose is as a kiosk device that will be sealed inside an external hard plastic enclosure. This means that the power button is unavailable for booting the phone. The phone is powered directly from the wall by means of a custom-made battery eliminator PCB, and I need the micro USB port for host mode UART communication, which means it will never be charged/powered via the micro USB port.
**What has been attempted so far**
As mentioned, the device is rooted, so I've tried modifying the BOOT partition image and flashing an updated one. The modifications I've been looking at pertains to the program
```
/init
```
in the root directory. and its associated
```
/init.rc
/init.samsungexynos7570.rc
/...
```
files. For example, I was able to make the phone boot upon receiving charge via the USB port by overwriting the contents of the file
```
/system/bin/lpm
```
with the script
```
#!/system/bin/sh
echo b > /proc/sysrq-trigger
```
because /system/bin/lpm is referenced in a service specified in the charging section of /init.rc. I was also able to make it boot via USB port charging by removing the existing "on charge" triggers in the init.\*.rc files, and simply adding
```
on property:ro.bootmode=charger:
trigger late-init
```
For more details about what I did, see [this link](https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/help/galaxy-xcover-4-boot-charge-help-t3823667). But this is **not a solution for me** because I want to make it boot simply by powering the battery pins, not the micro USB port (which is preoccupied with being in host mode, so it definitely can't be charged).
**Further thoughts**
However, since modifying the /init.rc file changed its behaviour even while "off" (i.e. it now boots upon micro USB charging as opposed to not), this seems to tell me that the phone is never really completely off when "off", and that the /init program is constantly running as long as there is enough charge on the battery pins (please derail this thought train asap if this is completely wrong). Which would mean the kernel and the /init program should start automatically when there's sufficient charge on the battery pins. So my thinking was to simply add something along the lines of
```
trigger late-init
```
or
```
start
```
(where *my\_service* for example could be the lpm script I mentioned above) in an early init trigger stage, so that it would boot simply by virtue of the /init program running. But so far I've had no luck.
Does anyone know whether something like this would possible? Thanks for your time.<issue_comment>username_1: I soldered the pins of my Nexus 7 2012 Gen 1 and the device did start up. The soldering simulates an always-pressed power-on button.
However, I tried the same with the Nexus 7 2013 Gen 2 and it turned itself off again because the button was always pressed. So I needed to solder a capacitor and a resistor in series to simulate a short button press. This worked for me, but the software solution would be more elegant.
I could measure only a few uA when the battery is plugged in so I can't imagine a part of the bootloader powering up on the mentioned devices. My idea is now to solder the power supply directly to the micro USB port as for data only 2 pins (USB2.0) are used. USB Pins: <https://www.giga.de/downloads/microsoft-windows/tipps/usb-anschluss-farben-stecker-bedeutung-und-erklaerung/> (German)
Then the device will start up with the lpm script or the `fastboot oem off-mode-charge 0` change.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Buy a USB-C hub with power delivery (PD), then you can charge and use all the USB's out there, or HDD/SSD.
I've done this for a Samsung Galaxy A30s and I use one on my Chromecast with Google TV, and as long as the file is under 4GB (FAT32) like music or movies, but struggling with not getting 4K and there's no 6 channel movie player to get because I think Google hasn't connected 6 channels to other than "Streaming services", not even VLC?
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/11/01 | 794 | 3,199 | <issue_start>username_0: I have installed [Advanced Download Manager](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dv.adm) (ADM), but when I try downloading a file from Chrome, it downloads the file with its Chrome download manager.
How to set-up ADM to intercept the download link on Chrome?<issue_comment>username_1: Normally ADM should be able to intercept downloads automatically provided its service is running in the background.
* You can check if the setting is active here: ADM Settings → Automation → Autostart service (**tick box**).
* Secondly make sure it is activated for both mobile and wi-fi networks ADM Settings → Automation → Only via wi-fi (**untick**)
* Also here, you need to fine tune the settings for download interception such as enabling the option when battery is low, and excluded the app from battery optimisation.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: In addition to the recommendations made in [other answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/203520/218526), do note a few things:
* ADM can intercept downloads from within its own browser, not from other apps, except from those which are looking for a browser/downloader app.
* Apps which depend on Android's [activity resolver](https://developer.android.com/guide/components/intents-filters#Resolution) (to show chooser dialog or *"Complete action using"* by sending an [implicit intent](https://developer.android.com/guide/components/intents-filters#Types)) can forward downloadable links to ADM (and other apps which register [preferred activities](https://developer.android.com/reference/android/content/pm/PackageManager.html#getPreferredActivities(java.util.List%3Candroid.content.IntentFilter%3E,%20java.util.List%3Candroid.content.ComponentName%3E,%20java.lang.String)) as downloaders).
Apps can also [query](https://developer.android.com/reference/android/content/pm/PackageManager.html#queryIntentActivities(android.content.Intent,%20int)) available activities for a certain intent (action, path and/or mime) type and then send explicit intent to an app chosen by user. E.g. Firefox looks for system's preferred activities for a given URL and mime type and maintains its own download preferences for all mime types.
ADM - in its `AndroidManifest.xml` file - registers itself for `android.intent.action.VIEW`, category `DEFAULT`/`BROWSABLE`, scheme `http`/`https`, all mime types and a long list of file extensions. So do other apps like MiXplorer and Firefox itself. Therefore they appears as eligible candidates when (an app through) OS looks for a downloader/browser.
* Xposed module "Download Redirection" can intercept all downloads which are forwarded by apps to Android's Download Manager (`com.android.providers.downloads`).
* But for apps which use their internal downloader, links need to be shared to ADM or copied to clipboard so that ADM can intercept them.
---
**RELATED:**
* [Alternative “File Open” - how ”ResolverActivity” works?](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/210168/218526)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Share download links to ADM and it will start download in ADM. You can do so by long pressing on download button and selecting share link option.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/11/01 | 792 | 3,000 | <issue_start>username_0: At some point in the last year I noticed that my Android device (HTC 10, Android 8.0.0) WiFi would turn on even when I had it turned off. I found out there is a permission called `CHANGE_WIFI_STATE`, which allows apps to enable/disable WiFi on my device.
I don't want this to happen. I want to be in full control of the WiFi state, for several reasons including the desire to avoid using bad WiFi without forgetting the access point name and key.
Is there **any** way I can achieve this without uninstalling the guilty apps? Ideally, I'd like to revoke access to the `CHANGE_WIFI_STATE` permission for all apps present and future, but I would be OK with doing it per-app too.<issue_comment>username_1: You can use Android's native permission manager (appops) to debar apps from using that permission. While you can use appops command using adb, it can become a pain because you need a PC to get that job done, unless you have root access. As an alternative, there are third-party GUI frontends for appops in Play Store, of which, I use [App Ops - Permission Manager](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=rikka.appops). It can work with both rooted and non-rooted phone, although, it would still be relatively painful in non-rooted mode.
The app shows tutorial at initial startup, to setup the mode to grant it the requisite privilege. After that, you just find your app in the list, and toggle that permission listed with the title "[Connect and Disconnect from Wi-Fi](https://i.stack.imgur.com/365aF.jpg)".
Under App Ops app's settings, you can setup a template (allowing or debarring a permission) which would apply on all the newly installed apps.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Go to settings -> permissions -> modify system settings and disable all apps' access to the same.
In your device you might find this setting at slightly different location.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: The possible problem might be that the protection level of permission became lower. The category of CHANGE\_WIFI\_STATE permission moved from "Dangerous" to "Normal". The [link](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/frameworks/base/+/53e5a05378919c4b4ac04d9dee745ecfda008393%5E1..53e5a05378919c4b4ac04d9dee745ecfda008393/) for Google Git. This means that permission to change the state of WIFI is granted automatically to application, and app doesn't need to ask for permission during running time to turn it on or off.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Although you mentioned using Android 8 *(You can get unofficial LineageOS on your HTC 10 device - at the expensive cost of failing SafetyNet verification - so you can choose android 9, 10 and even 11)*, the following applies on Android 9 and up:
Since Android 9, the setting for allowing or denying apps access to change wifi state is found under: **Settings** > **Apps & Notifications** > **Special app access** > **Wi-Fi control**.
You would have to deny access one by one, manually.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/11/01 | 920 | 3,512 | <issue_start>username_0: If I either connect my camera using a USB cable via OTG or insert the SD card in an OTG reader connected to the phone, Android creates automatically two folders: an `Android` folder and a `Lost.Dir` folder.
The problems are -
1. That as long as these two folders are on the camera (a Pentax K50), this latter thinks that the SD is not properly formatted and asks me if I want to format it or otherwise I cannot use it again. And indeed if I delete the two folders using my PC, I can then start using the card again. Obviously, I cannot format it.
2. That I cannot delete these folders on the phone without reliably preventing Android from recreating them. Also, the two folders remain on the SD even if I properly eject the OTG storage.
3. That I am going on a trip and I won't be having a PC with me to use to remove the folders.
Given all of the above, how can I then transfer the photos from my camera to the smartphone?<issue_comment>username_1: The `Android` folder is used to keep data about your apps. Deleting it from the internal storage or external storage (when used as adoptable storage) will cause the loss of your apps' data.
`LOST.DIR` is a folder used to place recovered files during boot. It is usually empty. Deleting this folder is safe.
In your case, you can delete both folders without creating any issues. Delete the folders, then disconnect the SD card as mentioned by [@Chrisii](https://android.stackexchange.com/users/7951/chrisii). It is a process that you will have to accomplish every time because the folders will be re-created by the Android OS when the SD card is connected.
---
References:
* [All you need to know about LOST.DIR folder on Android devices](https://thesundaycoder.blogspot.com/2014/06/all-you-need-to-know-about-lostdir.html)
* [What is the use of an Android folder? What happens if I delete this folder?](https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-use-of-an-Android-folder-What-happens-if-I-delete-this-folder)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Create two **0-byte files** on the SD Card with these names (case-sensitive):
```
LOST.DIR
Android
```
Optionally, you can make them both read-only and hidden (even though Linux won't follow these rules) so that when you browse the card within Windows, you won't see them. When connecting to an Android device, instead, it will fail to create the folders because of the empty files with the same name (you'll see the 0-byte files, though).
---
Powershell one-liner to create the necessary files (simply change the drive letter `H:` in `$drive = "H:"` with yours):
```
PS C:\> $drive = "H:"; ("$drive\LOST.DIR", "$drive\Android.") | % { if (Test-Path $_) { Remove-Item -Path $_ -Force }; (New-Item -Path $_ -ItemType File -Force).Attributes = "Hidden", "ReadOnly" }; if (Test-Path "$drive\System Volume Information") { Remove-Item -Path "$drive\System Volume Information" -Recurse -Force }
```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Some Android phones remove the folders if you unmount the SD card before removal. The unmount setting is usually found in storage settings or in the file explorer. The folders will only be removed if they are empty and not in use. (e.g. there are no orphaned, lost, or corrupted files that lost dir is holding on to.)
If this does not work, then your version of Android probably doesn't provide a way to not create them and you are stuck with manually deleting the folders and nothing short of modding your device will change that behavior.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/11/02 | 355 | 1,255 | <issue_start>username_0: Some friends of mine want to use WhatsApp to send me messages from time to time. But, I don't want to install the app (or I don't want to have it running all the time). Can I configure something within WhatsApp or another service to forward the messages from WhatsApp to an e-mail address via SMS?
Even a solution that requires me to configure a program on my own server would suffice.<issue_comment>username_1: There is no such solution available. But you can install whatsapp and turn off notification - from app settings.
If you want to use whatsapp like email on pc. Try using whatsapp web.
<https://web.whatsapp.com>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You can bridge WhatsApp to Matrix using mautrix which can be bridged to other serives like email. It is unfortunatley quite the hacky setup:
1. Have a [Synapse](https://github.com/matrix-org/synapse) or another Matrix server
2. [Run an Android VM to run WhatsApp](https://github.com/tulir/mautrix-whatsapp/wiki/Android-VM-Setup)
3. [Run the mautrix bridge](https://github.com/tulir/mautrix-whatsapp/wiki/Bridge-setup)
4. Run another bridge, e.g. [this one](https://github.com/kamax-matrix/matrix-appservice-email), to bridge to email or wherever desired.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/11/03 | 495 | 1,943 | <issue_start>username_0: I noticed the main place to download modules is here
<https://github.com/Magisk-Modules-Repo>
some in the links section link the source which just loops back to the same page. So are all the modules hosted on github itself open source? as i see what looks like the contents of each module there.
I suppose some modules might be posted on XDA that aren't on github and i know not all Xposed modules on Xda or repo.xposed.info aren't open source.
Appreciate all help.<issue_comment>username_1: Github does not equal open source. Because a Magisk module is on Github it does not mean it is open source
You can have both open and closed projects hosted on Github and Magisk is no exception as you can see from this [XDA post by Magisk developer](https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=68987141&postcount=7) (though instructions pertaining to Magisk are outdated)
There are projects hosted on Github with a portion of the code which is closed source and is offered as paid or pro version, for example code of
[FairEmail](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.faircode.email) is available on Github but the pro version features are not open source. Though I am not aware of any such Magisk module with pro component
Though this [SO](https://stackoverflow.com/q/16933385/10193147) question is old, it gives pointers to better understand
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I asked somewhere else. The response was.
If the Module has a LICENCE file listed in the github listing it's open source.
Magisk modules generally have their code publicly available (if it's not on GitHub you can just open the zip and read the code). There might be included binaries and apps that don't have the code available, of course.
Don't mistake publicly available code for open source. It's not the same thing... A Magisk module doesn't have to be open source for you to be able to see what it does.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/11/03 | 431 | 1,758 | <issue_start>username_0: If I perform below steps,
1. I root Android phone,
2. From third party apps available on Play Store, I change 16 digit Android device id(Let say from **aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa** to **bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb**)
3. And then again unroot the phonne.
Will unrooting the phone also change Android device id again or it will remain bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb only?
Thanks in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: Unrooting your phone doesn't reverse the changes you made to `/system`. These changes are reversed only when you flash a stock / custom ROM. Of course, apps that you had installed earlier which had root privileges will not work
To sum up, your changed ID will remain till the next factory reset
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: First of all, tweaking that 16 digit Android ID doesn't require root access. You can change that ID using ADB alone. Since Android 5.0, this should work just fine.
```
adb shell settings get secure android_id # returns the current Android ID
adb shell settings put secure android_id YOUR-16-DIGIT-ID # to change the ID with your new 16 digit ID
```
The Android ID is stored inside data partition. It is set on first boot after factory reset and remains until you factory reset again. It has got nothing to do with rooting and unrooting your device. So, if you changed that ID using some app and unrooted your phone later, that ID would persist until factory reset.
**Note**: since Android 8.0 each app sees android\_id which is unique to that app. It is not the same android\_id that you would see from settings command. See relevant [documentation](https://developer.android.com/reference/android/provider/Settings.Secure.html#ANDROID_ID) for more info on this.
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/11/03 | 251 | 905 | <issue_start>username_0: I do love to listen to music while watching text YouTube videos, but I can't because YouTube can't be muted.
I use the respect audio focus in [Musicolet](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=in.krosbits.musicolet&hl=en) Music Player.
I have tried App Volume Control but it did nothing!<issue_comment>username_1: You can play video in browser instead of youtube app. In browser you can mute the audio.
If your browser launched youtube app when clicked on video link, you need to copy the url and paste it inside the search box - youtube video will load in browser.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You can try a couple alternative apps. They have some advanced features that the official youtube app lacks.
NewPipe: <https://f-droid.org/en/packages/org.schabi.newpipe/>
Skytube: <https://f-droid.org/en/packages/free.rm.skytube.oss/>
Upvotes: 2 |
2018/11/03 | 2,551 | 9,706 | <issue_start>username_0: Is there a way how to offline safely synchronize directories between sd card on Android which is not rooted and PC with Ubuntu?
*Safely* = using secured connection between the devices (for example using ssh).
*Offline* = without Internet access, but the PC and smartphone are connected through LAN.
*Synchronize directories* = a process which transfers data between smartphone and PC in a way that at the end of the process, both devices contain exactly same data in selected directories (preferably, but not necessarily, excluding filtered files). The process is able to detect deleted data so it doesn't copy file which was originally on both devices and later deleted on one of them.
**My systems**
* Android 6.0.1 (not rooted)
* Xubuntu 18.04 64 bit PC
**What I already tried/checked (without success)**
*Unison*
* <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.danielroggen.unison>
* Problem: requires rooted device.
*Unison for Android*
* <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nerdysoftware.unison>
* Not secure - from application description: "No SSH access is necessary - clients connect directly via socket. Because Unison clients connect to your device over a direct socket connection instead of over SSH, the server should only be run when your Android device is connected to a trusted network, like a home WiFi. Running the server on other networks could expose files on your device to untrusted parties."
* Also seems to use older version of Unison (this application requires exactly same versions on server and client to allow data transfer).
*Rsync*
* <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.letscorp.rsyncwrapper>
* [Not quite designated for two-way syncing](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/2936627/two-way-sync-with-rsync).
*SSHDroid*
* <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=berserker.android.apps.sshdroid>
* For using SSH with another software (see bellow)
* Cannot write/modify SD card using the ssh connection. I went to settings -> Applications -> SSHDroid -> Permissions: storage is enabled. There I opened context menu -> all permissions: reading SD card available. Modification/deleting data on SD card available. In other words, I checked the application has permission to modify the SD card: it has.
*SSHFS with SSHHelper*
* <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.arachnoid.sshelper>
* Same problem as SSHDroid. I checked permissions.
*SSHFS with SimpleSSHD*
* <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.galexander.sshd>
* Same problem as SSHDroid. I checked permissions.
**What I already tried (with mixed/partial success)**
*Combination: Unison (on PC) + some SSH server (Android) + SSHFS (on PC)*
* In case I could find working SSH server; use SSHFS to mount remote Android device locally and then use Unison for synchronization.
* Results:
+ When the SSH is actually rw, then it works, but it's so slow that it's impractical - it must ask for every single file and directory over the network. Of course, other apps (like Unison) must do that too, but they don't ask for every single file sequentially (not: client send request for single file - latency - server checks and sends response - client receive response and go to next file).
+ Unison requires permission to rename files; it always creates temporary files and directories and when everything is downloaded and double-checked, then old files (if any) are deleted and new files renamed. So if renaming is not allowed, it doesn't work.
*SSH/SFTP Server - Terminal*
* <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.xnano.android.sshserver>
* This *actually* works but has two problems;
+ It requires entering password several (>10) times when mounted as sshfs (I tried trivial one and and made sure it's not typo) and doesn't support ssh keys. I was able to solve this problem with a hack: `zenity --password | sshfs user@host:/ "$PWD/data" -o reconnect,password_stdin`, but I'm not sure how secure it is.
+ This ssh is unbelievably *slow*. Much slower when compared with SSHDroid and SSHHelper (not only with sshfs, but also when I simply connect using ssh and terminal; typing and responses are really, really slow). Maximum speed is 2 MB/s, but most of the time it's ~500kB/s.
+ Cannot rename files (permission error) so it makes it unusable with Unison (on PC).
*Syncthing*
* <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nutomic.syncthingandroid>
* Problem: cannot modify SD card (on non-rooted systems) and [devs are not going to fix this anytime soon](https://github.com/syncthing/syncthing-android/issues/1017).
* The only solution is to use [obscure](https://github.com/syncthing/syncthing-android/wiki/Frequently-Asked-Questions#what-about-sd-card-support), hard-to-reach deep directory structure: `/storage/XXXX-XXXX/Android/data/com.nutomic.syncthingandroid/files`.
* But for this particular directory, it works. It's speed is about 5 - 10 MB/s and I suspect that it's being throttled down by SD card itself (or Android). For now, I'm using this solution, but the directory is really inconvenient.
* Smaller problems:
+ It doesn't support following symlinks and until someone (other than current devs) [implement it](https://github.com/syncthing/syncthing/issues/1776#issuecomment-311612569), it's not going to be supported.
**What problem I'm trying to solve**
I "just" want to synchronize data on file level (some pdfs, images, etc.) between my PC and Android smartphone. I use multiple devices (desktop, laptop, etc.) and use Unison (note: I do not insist on this app) to synchronize data between them. Because I switch environment quite offten, I need it to work on one button press and to be fast as possible (which, for example, Unison does greatly). Because I work on different environments, I need to cover my cases: sometimes I'm without Internet access. Other times I'm connected to untrusted network.
This is also reason why I cannot use cloud (like Dropbox): it's slower than two devices communicating directly and sometimes I'm without Internet connection so I cannot synchronize even when the devices are connected on same network.
The reason why I want to sync with SD card is simply because it has bigger capacity so my files fits.<issue_comment>username_1: At the end, I settled with [Syncthing](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nutomic.syncthingandroid). So, how does it fulfil my requirements:
**Safely**
It uses encryption. I didn't analyse how secure it is, so this is more matter of trust, but at least it shouldn't send data unencrypted.
**Offline**
Works exceptionally well. Local LAN detection seems reliable and is able to connect clients directly. I use it also at work (Windows-to-Windows and Windows-to-Linux) to share data with co-workers without exposing them to 3rd-party companies, it's fast and reliable. (Tens of gigabytes are transferred pretty quickly, so it seems the only bottleneck is the local network.)
**Synchronize directories**
Works well, but at the end, I decided to synchronize two-ways only one subdirectory instead of all data. It seems like Android likes to modify my files without my consent (especially media files), so except certain working directory, I block any changes done by the Android. It's inconvenient, but it's not issue with Syncthing.
Another problem is when synchronizing big files (thousands of megabytes and more), but again, it seems like issue with my device, but after a few system crashes, Syncthing eventually manages to transfer the data. (Later edit: it seems this issue really happens only on my Android device. Syncing single ~25GB file with a co-worked, Windows-to-Windows was without any problems.)
**Pros**
* Reliable across platforms.
* You just configure it and it works in background. If you're used, for example, to Dropbox, it's similar, except you don't share your data with 3rd party company. And it's actually faster (ymmv), because it synchronizes data between clients directly, not with server.
* The application can be configured through browser. You can enable access from outer device (I recommend to enable password in this case!!!) which allows you to configure Android Syncthing through your desktop browser (you just need to find out IP address of your phone), which is really convenient.
**Cons**
* As already mentioned in question, only directory on SD card, which can be synced, is `/storage/XXXX-XXXX/Android/data/com.nutomic.syncthingandroid/files`. It's really inconvenient, but I got used to it, somehow.
* Linux desktop version [doesn't handle symlinks](https://github.com/syncthing/syncthing/issues/1776). I solved it by using mount `bindfs --resolve-symlinks --no-allow-other "srcDir" "shareDir"`.
**Notes**
I miss option to review data changes before they're synchronized, but this is matter of preference and application design, not an issue. And as stated in question, I couldn't find reliable Unison implementation on Android.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I used to plug in the mobile and mount the directories using simple-mtpfs
```
mkdir /mnt/phone
simple-mtpfs -o enable-move /mnt/phone
```
I could then use unison directly between appropriate directories
It worked great for many years over 3 different phones.
Additional I was hoping to use unison for android, but it cant create a lock file on the sdcard which it wants to use for its one phone files. (Mistakenly thinks there is one, and asks to delete it)
Only problem is the plug on my current phone is so loose I can't get a file transfer connection, only power charging. Which is why I am here looking for a network solution.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/11/04 | 477 | 2,136 | <issue_start>username_0: The organization I work at has added the option of using Android For Work (AFW) aka Android Enterprise (AE). Under this setup I have two profiles: private and work. These are completely separate spaces, so apps installed in one profile aren't available in the other, and files are kept separate. Even Android's *share* functionality is separate, so I can't share a file I received at work to my private profile.
The only thing that I've seen that is somewhat shared is the phone app. When I search for a contact, I get results from both work and private profiles.
The question is, is there any way to view my work and private calendars together? While the profiles are separate, there is only one me, so I would like to be able to see all my schedule constraints in one place. Is there any way to do this?<issue_comment>username_1: You can share your work calendar with your private id or share your private calendar with work id. This way you can see both calendar together.
This applies if it is google calendar for both work and private use.
Please let us know if you have some other configuration in calendars.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I have a Microsoft Exchange account for work and I use Outlook on Windows. I have a Android work profile calendar app on my phone. I used the following steps and was able to see my personal calendar events on my work profile calendar app on android phone.
1. On PC, go to Google calendar in browser. Click on Settings for the personal google calendar that you want to add to your work profile app.
2. Under "Integrate Calendar" copy the URL that said "Secret Address in iCal format". You can use public link for public calendars.
3. In Outlook on Windows PC, choose Open Calendar -> From Internet. Paste this URL and click "ok"
4. Sync Android work profile calendar app. It should start showing events from this new calendar added just now.
I cannot yet change the colour of this new calendar in the Android app (setting different colour in Outlook doesn't help). It would be ideal to see them in different colours, but I'll live with this.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/11/05 | 385 | 1,466 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm observing a strange behaviour on my phone out of the blue. Yesterday, the left side of my screen stopped working properly. I started having a hard time clicking anything next to the left edge, typing the keyboard or pressing buttons on the left.
I enabled *Developer Options > Input > Show touches*, and I was able to observe that when I try to tap the left side of the screen, the screen appears to detect two taps on opposing sides of a column, as if the whole column of pixels were damaged. The phone hasn't suffered any hits or gotten wet. This is just out of nowhere.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4LvvP.png)
I've uploaded a video of this to make it clearer [here](https://youtu.be/esXL2sjUexw).
This is an Xperia Z3, D6603, running Android 5.1.1.
Has anyone encountered something like this? I've tried restarting the phone to no avail.<issue_comment>username_1: It some time happens when some of the apps in the background are going through connection or network problems and they are third party they start behaving badly and they start making your phone to hang and make waste touches
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: This is a hardware problem. The screen sensor is faulty. The actions most likely to solve the problem:
1. Factory reset
2. Cleaning of the screen ribbon cable
3. Replacement of the screen.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2018/11/05 | 2,399 | 8,872 | <issue_start>username_0: I ran into this weird situation, where:
1. I backed up my WhatsApp to local storage, inside the `Databases` folder
2. Then I changed my WhatsApp number (to another new SIM)
3. Format my HTC Phone (HTC One E9+ Dual SIM).
4. Copy back all WhatsApp folder back to the Internal Storage
5. Re-install WhatsApp, but, all it asks me is this (below)

Upon "Skip", nothing, no chat restored.
I have already renamed the database file as per [Restoring your chat history](https://faq.whatsapp.com/en/android/20887921/) to `msgstore.db.crypt12` and also kept the same file with the name `msgstore.db.crypt`. But, it simply, doesn't even detect it & asks nothing as backup found/restore.
Any guess/idea?<issue_comment>username_1: If your backup was made when you had a different phone number than the one you currently have, you will not be able to restore it.
As found on <https://faq.whatsapp.com/en/android/20887921/#restore>
>
> Restoring or transferring a backup
>
>
> WhatsApp will ask you to restore your chats and media from a backup once you verify your number. Simply
> tap RESTORE when prompted to. If WhatsApp doesn't detect a backup, it
> could be because:
>
>
> * You aren't logged into the same Google account.
> * You aren't using the same phone number that was used to create the backup.
> * Your SD card or chat history is corrupted.
> * A backup file doesn't exist on the Google Drive account or locally on your phone.
>
>
> Note: The easiest way to
> transfer data to a new phone is by using Google Drive. If you want to
> use a local backup, you'll need to transfer the files to the new phone
> using a computer, file explorer or SD Card. If your data isn't stored
> on the /sdcard/WhatsApp/ folder, you might see "internal storage" or
> "main storage" folders.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I had problems with this too, and today finally it worked. I'm not sure which of the following additional steps did the trick, so I'll list both:
1. I copied the *entire* WhatsApp folder over from the old phone to the new one *(apparently the asker already did this)*.
2. After installing WhatsApp, I gave the app all possible permissions *before* running it: under Settings/Apps, select WhatsApp, tap Permissions, and then select all permissions listed under "denied" and tap "allow" (you can revoke the permissions again after the backup is succesfully restored).
After doing this, running WhatsApp and confirming my phone number, I was finally prompted to restore the local backup. Before that, I had selected "give permission" in the popup from the screenshot above, then approved the permissions it asked for, but apparently this is only for the Google Drive restore. It looks like restoring a local backup only works if the permissions are already present?!
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: [username_2's answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/224855/44325) works.
With respect to this website, I will add icing above the cake for others with a similar problem
**- referencing to the asker step one to five -** the right sequence should be:
1. (2) I changed my Whatsapp Number (to another new SIM). Link: [Change WhatsApp number](https://faq.whatsapp.com/en/android/27585377/?category=5245246)
2. (1) I backed up my Whatsapp to local storage, inside the `Databases` Folder
3. (3) Format my HTC Phone (HTC One E9+ Dual SIM).
4. (4) Copy back all Whatsapp Folder back to the Internal Storage
5. *Here, I use the solution number (2) from username_2*
The option to restore from local data will pop up, just hit OK and done, continue like usual
For those with new phones:
3. In the new phone, I install WhatsApp just so I know where to paste the copied data
4. Uninstall WhatsApp. Even though it gave a warning that all data will be erased, it didn't erase my copied data.
5. *Same with above*
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Disclaimer: this solution is offered to those who as myself found this post via googling for "whatsapp not restoring local backup", I have not changed my number.
I've tried giving permissions before Whatsapp starting as advised in other answer, but to no success, restarted my phone - again no success. But then I noted "Whatsapp" folder as seen by android file manager contains only "Media" folder, whereas to my Linux mounted drive I copied all folders, which gave me a clue. **I copied all "whatsapp" previous phone folder to some folder on the "new" phone via laptop and copied from there to "whatsapp" folder via internal android file manager app.** Then Whatsapp found backup. Looks in my case the issue might have been with Linux-Android USB link.
**ADDED:
Android 11 release issue and solution:**
WhatsApp is now in `[Internal storage]/Android/media/com.whatsapp/WhatsApp/Databases` - that you can check for yourself after installing it on a new phone (install first - not run yet, then copy files from old phone over to new one in that new folder, then start WhatsApp on new phone).
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_5: **Android 11 release issue and solution:**
In my case, after backing up the WhatsApp folder via USB and restoring it using the same method to the new phone, I discovered that WhatsApp was unable to find the backup in the path `/data/media/0/WhatsApp` (which is mapped to USB on my Android 11 Pixel 4a as "Internal Storage").
Moving the folder instead to `/data/media/0/Android/media/com.whatsapp/WhatsApp` did the trick for me. No permission changes were necessary. I did this via a root shell on a custom ROM, but it should also be possible on a regular phone to simply recreate the folder structure using the USB connection:
* Force close WhatsApp
* Go into app settings and clear WhatsApp's storage
* Via USB, create `Android` folder if it's missing
* Create `media` subfolder if it's missing
* Create `com.whatsapp` subfolder if it's missing
* Copy your `WhatsApp` folder to the `com.whatsapp` subfolder
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_6: Update: (July 6th, 2023):
-------------------------
**New, Easier, Better Way To Transfer Your WhatsApp to A New Phone.**
**For Android:**
*What you need:*
1- Android OS Lollipop 5.1, SDK 23 or above, or Android 6 or above installed on both your old and new Android phones.
2- Use the same phone number as your old phone on your new phone.
3- Your new phone must not be registered on WhatsApp until you start the migration on your old phone.
4- Your phones must be close to each other.
5- Both of your phones should be connected to a power source.
6- Both of your phones need to have WiFi enabled. They don’t need to be connected to a network.
7- Certain device permissions are required to initiate the transfer. Precise location permissions are required by the device in Android 12 and below, but WhatsApp does not collect your precise location.
*On Old Phone:*
1- Open WhatsApp on your old phone.
2- Tap More Options > Settings > Chats > Transfer chats > Start.
3- Accept requested permissions
4- prepare to scan the QR code that will be shown on your new phone.
*On New Phone:*
1- Download and then open WhatsApp on your new phone.
2- Go through the setup.
3- Tap Accept terms and conditions.
4- Verify your phone number.
5- Tap Start on Transfer chat history from old phone.
6- Accept requested permissions and then you’ll see a QR code.
7- On your old phone scan the QR code shown on your new phone.
8- Accept the invitation.
*Notes:*
1- While your chat history is transferring, a percentage bar will track the progress.
2- Keep both phones unlocked and don’t leave WhatsApp.
3- Messaging is paused during the chat history transfer.
4- You can Cancel the process at any time.
5- Once the import is complete, tap Done.
**For iPhone:**
It is similar, and you can get detailed steps for both on the [WhatsApp website](https://faq.whatsapp.com/209942271778103/?cms_platform=android&helpref=platform_switcher) if you cannot figure it out yourself.
**Source:** ***WhatsApp.com***
---
OLD Stuff:
Disclaimer: This is based on my personal experience and it is NOT official. If you like to use it, do it at your own risk.
In addition to all the previous answers, and if WhatsApp ignored the local backup after canceling the google drive backup, one can try this:
When WhatsApp asks for google drive backup:
1- Close WhatsApp.
2- Put the phone on flight mode.
3- Run WhatsApp again.
4- When asks for google drive Skip.
5- Now Local backup should be recognized.
6- Reconnect to the Internet.
7- Go on and restore the local backup.
It is important that you use the same phone number to restore, so either:
1- Change the phone number on the old phone before the backup. or,
2- Use the old phone number to restore then change it on the new phone.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/11/05 | 2,398 | 8,967 | <issue_start>username_0: I have Samsung Galaxy S7 on Android 8.0 Oreo. I have recently noticed that once I select a word in Chrome, I get an option "Dictionary" that would take me to this app. This is the icon of the app:

I can't uninstall this app, thus this means that this is an app by default/built-in.
I want to change the dictionary. By this, I mean when you select one word in a webpage, there is this popup that comes up with the last option dictionary. The built-in dictionary is quite poor for certain languages, and I'm using dictionaries quite a lot.
Ideally, I'd like to use [GoldenDict](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mobi.goldendict.android), but any other dictionary would be fine.
Is there any way of using another dictionary from the contextual menu of a web page in Chrome?<issue_comment>username_1: If your backup was made when you had a different phone number than the one you currently have, you will not be able to restore it.
As found on <https://faq.whatsapp.com/en/android/20887921/#restore>
>
> Restoring or transferring a backup
>
>
> WhatsApp will ask you to restore your chats and media from a backup once you verify your number. Simply
> tap RESTORE when prompted to. If WhatsApp doesn't detect a backup, it
> could be because:
>
>
> * You aren't logged into the same Google account.
> * You aren't using the same phone number that was used to create the backup.
> * Your SD card or chat history is corrupted.
> * A backup file doesn't exist on the Google Drive account or locally on your phone.
>
>
> Note: The easiest way to
> transfer data to a new phone is by using Google Drive. If you want to
> use a local backup, you'll need to transfer the files to the new phone
> using a computer, file explorer or SD Card. If your data isn't stored
> on the /sdcard/WhatsApp/ folder, you might see "internal storage" or
> "main storage" folders.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I had problems with this too, and today finally it worked. I'm not sure which of the following additional steps did the trick, so I'll list both:
1. I copied the *entire* WhatsApp folder over from the old phone to the new one *(apparently the asker already did this)*.
2. After installing WhatsApp, I gave the app all possible permissions *before* running it: under Settings/Apps, select WhatsApp, tap Permissions, and then select all permissions listed under "denied" and tap "allow" (you can revoke the permissions again after the backup is succesfully restored).
After doing this, running WhatsApp and confirming my phone number, I was finally prompted to restore the local backup. Before that, I had selected "give permission" in the popup from the screenshot above, then approved the permissions it asked for, but apparently this is only for the Google Drive restore. It looks like restoring a local backup only works if the permissions are already present?!
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: [username_2's answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/224855/44325) works.
With respect to this website, I will add icing above the cake for others with a similar problem
**- referencing to the asker step one to five -** the right sequence should be:
1. (2) I changed my Whatsapp Number (to another new SIM). Link: [Change WhatsApp number](https://faq.whatsapp.com/en/android/27585377/?category=5245246)
2. (1) I backed up my Whatsapp to local storage, inside the `Databases` Folder
3. (3) Format my HTC Phone (HTC One E9+ Dual SIM).
4. (4) Copy back all Whatsapp Folder back to the Internal Storage
5. *Here, I use the solution number (2) from username_2*
The option to restore from local data will pop up, just hit OK and done, continue like usual
For those with new phones:
3. In the new phone, I install WhatsApp just so I know where to paste the copied data
4. Uninstall WhatsApp. Even though it gave a warning that all data will be erased, it didn't erase my copied data.
5. *Same with above*
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Disclaimer: this solution is offered to those who as myself found this post via googling for "whatsapp not restoring local backup", I have not changed my number.
I've tried giving permissions before Whatsapp starting as advised in other answer, but to no success, restarted my phone - again no success. But then I noted "Whatsapp" folder as seen by android file manager contains only "Media" folder, whereas to my Linux mounted drive I copied all folders, which gave me a clue. **I copied all "whatsapp" previous phone folder to some folder on the "new" phone via laptop and copied from there to "whatsapp" folder via internal android file manager app.** Then Whatsapp found backup. Looks in my case the issue might have been with Linux-Android USB link.
**ADDED:
Android 11 release issue and solution:**
WhatsApp is now in `[Internal storage]/Android/media/com.whatsapp/WhatsApp/Databases` - that you can check for yourself after installing it on a new phone (install first - not run yet, then copy files from old phone over to new one in that new folder, then start WhatsApp on new phone).
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_5: **Android 11 release issue and solution:**
In my case, after backing up the WhatsApp folder via USB and restoring it using the same method to the new phone, I discovered that WhatsApp was unable to find the backup in the path `/data/media/0/WhatsApp` (which is mapped to USB on my Android 11 Pixel 4a as "Internal Storage").
Moving the folder instead to `/data/media/0/Android/media/com.whatsapp/WhatsApp` did the trick for me. No permission changes were necessary. I did this via a root shell on a custom ROM, but it should also be possible on a regular phone to simply recreate the folder structure using the USB connection:
* Force close WhatsApp
* Go into app settings and clear WhatsApp's storage
* Via USB, create `Android` folder if it's missing
* Create `media` subfolder if it's missing
* Create `com.whatsapp` subfolder if it's missing
* Copy your `WhatsApp` folder to the `com.whatsapp` subfolder
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_6: Update: (July 6th, 2023):
-------------------------
**New, Easier, Better Way To Transfer Your WhatsApp to A New Phone.**
**For Android:**
*What you need:*
1- Android OS Lollipop 5.1, SDK 23 or above, or Android 6 or above installed on both your old and new Android phones.
2- Use the same phone number as your old phone on your new phone.
3- Your new phone must not be registered on WhatsApp until you start the migration on your old phone.
4- Your phones must be close to each other.
5- Both of your phones should be connected to a power source.
6- Both of your phones need to have WiFi enabled. They don’t need to be connected to a network.
7- Certain device permissions are required to initiate the transfer. Precise location permissions are required by the device in Android 12 and below, but WhatsApp does not collect your precise location.
*On Old Phone:*
1- Open WhatsApp on your old phone.
2- Tap More Options > Settings > Chats > Transfer chats > Start.
3- Accept requested permissions
4- prepare to scan the QR code that will be shown on your new phone.
*On New Phone:*
1- Download and then open WhatsApp on your new phone.
2- Go through the setup.
3- Tap Accept terms and conditions.
4- Verify your phone number.
5- Tap Start on Transfer chat history from old phone.
6- Accept requested permissions and then you’ll see a QR code.
7- On your old phone scan the QR code shown on your new phone.
8- Accept the invitation.
*Notes:*
1- While your chat history is transferring, a percentage bar will track the progress.
2- Keep both phones unlocked and don’t leave WhatsApp.
3- Messaging is paused during the chat history transfer.
4- You can Cancel the process at any time.
5- Once the import is complete, tap Done.
**For iPhone:**
It is similar, and you can get detailed steps for both on the [WhatsApp website](https://faq.whatsapp.com/209942271778103/?cms_platform=android&helpref=platform_switcher) if you cannot figure it out yourself.
**Source:** ***WhatsApp.com***
---
OLD Stuff:
Disclaimer: This is based on my personal experience and it is NOT official. If you like to use it, do it at your own risk.
In addition to all the previous answers, and if WhatsApp ignored the local backup after canceling the google drive backup, one can try this:
When WhatsApp asks for google drive backup:
1- Close WhatsApp.
2- Put the phone on flight mode.
3- Run WhatsApp again.
4- When asks for google drive Skip.
5- Now Local backup should be recognized.
6- Reconnect to the Internet.
7- Go on and restore the local backup.
It is important that you use the same phone number to restore, so either:
1- Change the phone number on the old phone before the backup. or,
2- Use the old phone number to restore then change it on the new phone.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/11/06 | 560 | 2,141 | <issue_start>username_0: This should be simple, but apparently, it is not.
I want to make a full backup of my Xiaomi MI A2 (ROM, App, Data, All) to my Windows PC via USB.
If there is a problem (boot loop, crash, anything), I want to restore the entire backup to it so that it stays EXACTLY the same as before the backup (same ROM, same apps, same data, anyway, all the same), like a **time machine**.
How to do this?<issue_comment>username_1: Flash (or temporarily boot) a custom recovery like TWRP, and you'll be able to make a Nandroid backup. It typically includes the boot image, the system image and your internal data (excluding Pictures, Musics, Downloads etc.).
When you restore a Nandroid backup, everything goes back to the exact state before the backup.
You won't be able to back up the boot image and the system image easily otherwise.
You can read more at the [tag wiki](https://android.stackexchange.com/tags/nandroid/info) of our [nandroid](/questions/tagged/nandroid "show questions tagged 'nandroid'") tag.
**Note**: Even booting temporarily into TWRP requires an unlocked bootloader (if it's previously locked). If you haven't previously unlocked it, be aware that doing so wipes out all data on your phone, including your internal storage where your pictures, musics and downloads reside.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If TWRP is not an option for you (locked bootloader, unsupported device etc), you may want to check out Helium. Helium is a no-root adb-based solution similar in principle to TWRP. It transfers (bi-directional) apps and also the critically important app data. There are two installs, the app on your android and the companion program on your PC.
If (big if, I know) you know where all your files are, you could just use an ftp server on your android to push to and pull from PC.
Check out [Where Android apps store data?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/47924/where-android-apps-store-data) if you'd like to go that route. And if you're new to FTP, there's a good tutorial at <https://www.guidingtech.com/use-ftp-server-file-transfer-android/>
Hope this helps.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/11/07 | 301 | 1,100 | <issue_start>username_0: My Xiaomi A2 Lite flashlight illuminates whenever I get a phone call. How can I disable this feature?
I tried looking at Settings > Apps & Notification > Phone > Phone > App notification > Incoming calls. Unfortunately there is no "Flash while ringing" option there.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gu5nw.png)<issue_comment>username_1: Try this:
1. Go to Settings.
2. Tap on System Apps.
3. Tap on Phone Section.
4. Choose Incoming Call Settings.
5. Now disable “Flash when ringing” option.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Try this:
Open Phone App → click the three horizontal bars in the bottom left corner → Settings.
Alternatively, go to *Settings → App Settings Section → System Apps → Call settings*. You should now be in call settings. Now go to *Incoming calls settings → Flash while ringing*.
If you require pictures, you can follow the introduction and #3 in the [10 Best Xiaomi Redmi Devices Call Settings Tips & Tricks](https://www.guidingtech.com/xiaomi-redmi-call-settings-tips-tricks/) article.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/11/08 | 524 | 2,001 | <issue_start>username_0: While I never had problems before with my Android phone, suddenly one day when I was connecting my phone to the PC via USB it stopped working. Both my PC and my phone didn't detect each other. Strangely enough, it can still charge with the USB cable connected.
I tried the following with no results:
* I supposed the cable was wrong so I bought a brand new one, but still both the PC and the Android phone refused to detect each other.
* Checked in every port of my PC (I tested the functionality of the ports with a normal USB stick, and they work perfectly).
* Enabled USB debugging option in the phone.
* Tried to update USB drivers through Device Manager. The problem here is that it doesn't even show any Android device or at least an unknown device connected to the USB port, so I can't even force the search for new drivers.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1KJ7L.png)
* I also tested both cables with two other Android phones I have (suspecting it was the fault of the phone), but still no results.
I'm using Windows 7 64-bit, and my phone has Android 5.0. I tested with a Samsung, and LG, and a Huawei but neither worked.
Do you have any idea or advice on how to solve this?<issue_comment>username_1: Try this:
1. Go to Settings.
2. Tap on System Apps.
3. Tap on Phone Section.
4. Choose Incoming Call Settings.
5. Now disable “Flash when ringing” option.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Try this:
Open Phone App → click the three horizontal bars in the bottom left corner → Settings.
Alternatively, go to *Settings → App Settings Section → System Apps → Call settings*. You should now be in call settings. Now go to *Incoming calls settings → Flash while ringing*.
If you require pictures, you can follow the introduction and #3 in the [10 Best Xiaomi Redmi Devices Call Settings Tips & Tricks](https://www.guidingtech.com/xiaomi-redmi-call-settings-tips-tricks/) article.
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/11/08 | 560 | 2,102 | <issue_start>username_0: I can connect to TWRP (3.2.3-0) with `adb` but `fastboot devices` does not list any and `fastboot continue` (while my phone is booted into TWRP) only prints:
```
$ fastboot continue
< waiting for any device >
```
I can rule out a driver problem since I have used `fastboot` successfully with the same combination of phone, cable and PC.<issue_comment>username_1: You are confused about `fastboot`. It is not another `adb`. There is no fastboot server (in TWRP) which accepts connections. Rather it is a step/mode in the boot process of Android. Think of it as GRUB. You need to reboot your phone while the `fastboot` command is waiting for your device.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: ADB and fastboot are two different protocols. **Android Debugging Bridge** works in ROM or in Recovery mode, when adbd (adb daemon) is running on phone.
**Fastboot** is one of the most commonly used Firmware Update Protocols. It works in **bootloader mode** which is also called **download mode** or emergency download mode (**EDL**) by some vendors. Some devices have both modes where EDL provides more primary access as compared to fastboot. Some OEM's use different tools for firmware flashing such as **ODIN**, **nvFlash**, **QPST/QFIL** etc.
Bootloader mode is usually accessible by rebooting in bootloader mode from recovery or ROM, or by pressing Vol+ key when device is booting. Similarly EDL is accessible using different combinations of Vol+, Vol- and Power key.
Bootloader is one of the very first pieces of software that is loaded in booting process. **GRUB** is the most common one used on Linux PCs. On Android embedded devices, the most commonly used bootloader by SOC vendors is **ABOOT**. To know further about bootloaders, boot process and what we can do in adb/fastboot mode, have a look at given links:
* [Boot Process: Android vs. Linux](https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/info-boot-process-android-vs-linux-t3785254)
* [ADB & Fastboot](https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/help/adb-fastboot-commands-bootloader-kernel-t3597181)
Upvotes: 1 |
2018/11/08 | 514 | 2,094 | <issue_start>username_0: All of the normal permissions are listed [here](https://developer.android.com/guide/topics/permissions/overview#normal_permissions), but it does not say anything about root permissions. I can't find the names of individual permissions anywhere else either so I am asking here.<issue_comment>username_1: From my understanding and past experience programming Android apps in rooted phones, getting root permissions in an app is to have access to everything.
Once a phone is rooted, you, the user, have access to the entire file system[1](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/249/60737), which allows anything to happen with it, including apps modifying their own permissions[2](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/29402/60737).
Android is built on Linux, which means that `su`, or the root user, is the master user. Root user has the ability to do anything they want[3](https://mediatemple.net/community/products/dv/204643890/an-introduction-to-the-root-user). Apps granted root permission can add, modify, or delete things as they please throughout the file system. Along with that, they have access to the APIs that control the hardware of the phone, which means that they are capable of doing anything without your knowing, among other things [(reason 3)](https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/security-reasons-never-root-android/).
**TL;DR** Root has access to everything and can do anything.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Root (superuser) is **not an app**, it is a user that runs various processes in the Linux kernel (upon which Android framework runs). The permissions you listed are applicable only for **system apps and third-party apps**. When an app is granted superuser access, it does its things as the root user (UID 0). Barring some SELinux policies, there is no restriction for the most powerful user in the device.
Do note that app permission model of Android is controlled by system user (user 1000), and system user is not at par with superuser, so latter can override anything which other users are capable of doing.
Upvotes: 0 |
2018/11/10 | 616 | 2,657 | <issue_start>username_0: My android phone has weak buttons, so I don't use them frequently. I even change my volume from the settings!
But to take a screenshot, I need to press the volume down button *and* the power button. I have a Motorola Moto E4 Plus running Android 7.1.1.
Is there any other way to take screenshots? I don't want to root my phone.
NOTE: This question is not a duplicate as this is asking specifically ***without buttons*** and so helps those who can not use their physical buttons.<issue_comment>username_1: Another way to take screenshot without hardware inputs (physical buttons) would be to do so with software inputs (on-screen buttons). I remember using a software to capture images and videos of my phone a few years ago.
Samsung Galaxy comes with gesture software that is embedded to the OS that a user can slide edge of one's hand across the screen to take screenshots; but I am not sure if it is available to Motorola phones as it seemed like an extention that Samsung added to the Android.
You should be able to find a number of screen capture applications if you search for "screen capture" in Play Store. They usually display a floating icon or a notification bar icon that you can touch to capture screenshots.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Tasker app can do this without root.
Install Tasker. Setup a Task named Capture Screenshot and add the following actions:
1. Display → Status bar → Set: Collapsed.
2. Task → Wait → MS: 500
3. Display → Take Screenshot → File:`%DATE-%TIMES` → tick Insert in Gallery.
4. Optional: since Tasker doesn't visibly show whether it took a screenshot or not, you can configure your task to show a toast or a notification that screenshot has been taken. Both toast and notification can be added from Alert section.
5. Set an icon for the task.
For the ease of use I suggest you attach this task to a quick setting tile. Tasker offers three tiles. You can access them and add them into your enabled tiles through the quick settings editor (the pencil icon in your quick settings) and drag the 'unset' named tile to visible tiles.
After that, go into Tasker, click three dots lines, select Action and under Quick Settings Tasks replace the entry named unset with the name of the task you just created. Make sure you change it only for the entry you dragged into visible tiles.
From now on, whenever you would tap that quick setting tile, it would collapse the notification bar, wait for 500ms, than capture a screenshot.
In practice, Tasker responsded with an automatic delay of at least 3 seconds when tapping the tile. I have no solution for this delay though.
Upvotes: 1 |