date stringlengths 10 10 | nb_tokens int64 60 629k | text_size int64 234 1.02M | content stringlengths 234 1.02M |
|---|---|---|---|
2016/09/17 | 492 | 1,858 | <issue_start>username_0: While trying to root Samsung Galaxy Tab 4 (SM-T337A), it now says
>
> System software not authorized by ATT has been found on your phone
>
>
>
Downloading the firmware through Odin didn't help.
Aside from taking it to the nearest AT&T or Best Buy, is there a way to fix this by myself?<issue_comment>username_1: If you are rooted theres an app called "Battery calibrarion" which may help you.
What i didnt extract from your text: do you still use the original battery that came with a phone or one you bought somewhere else?
If you still use the original one,i recommend to buy a new one since batteries loose a certain percentage of their power after a long time.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: >
> Is there a way to calibrate the battery level in such a way that the indicator gives correct resp. *useful* values again?
>
>
>
**No** . Battery calibration is a myth and you can see this question for more. While the context of question is different, it answers why it is a myth
[Bought a new battery, do I need to calibrate it?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/131545/131553)
* Li Ion batteries don't suddenly die ( unlike Ni Cd batteries ); their performance degrades **both** in terms of charge holding capacity and the performance or life per charge. Two years of usage is not really an indicator of battery life - it depends on a host of other things like how heavily it is used, how it has been charged etc. My gut feeling is that it has lived it's life and it's time more to replace the battery with a new one
* HTC and some Nexus devices have a way of fixing wonky battery readings using *battery reset logic*, but Samsung devices don't have this feature, so to fix it battery replacement is the first step. If the problem persists ( unlikely ) you may need to get it get it checked up
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/09/18 | 4,172 | 16,318 | <issue_start>username_0: With Android 6.0, [a bunch of permissions and permission groups have been removed](https://developer.android.com/sdk/api_diff/23/changes.html):
### Groups gone
While on a first glance this doesn't seem important (isn't it rather a way to organize permissions?) – thinking twice reveals a major importance here: Starting with Android 6 (and with the Playstore even before that), if an app update requests a permission from a group where it already held one from in a previous installed version, this "new permission" is not brought to the awareness of the user. With Android 6, it is even granted automatically then. Also keep in mind that the user (with "native Android capabilities") can only revoke access to entire groups, not to single permissions – so fewer groups mean less flexibility, up to a uselessness of the entire feature.
According to the link mentioned above, the following groups have been removed:
`ACCOUNTS`, `AFFECTS_BATTERY`, `COST_MONEY`, `DISPLAY`, `MESSAGES`, `NETWORK`, `PERSONAL_INFO`, `PHONE_CALLS`, `SCREENLOCK`, `SOCIAL_INFO`, `SYSTEM_CLOCK`, `SYSTEM_TOOLS`, `USER_DICTIONARY`, `WALLPAPER`
### Permissions gone
Less permissions covering more ways to access personal data mean a nightmare for privacy. Concerning accounts, I've raised this question already: [Android 6+ and account permissions: where have they gone to?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/157350/16575) As we found out there, what before was dealt with by the no longer existing `USE_CREDENTIALS` permission, now got moved to contacts (not sure whether read or write): so if you wish to "login with Google" (or any other account holder), you need to give the app full access to your contact list! The popup on the screenshot there ("Allow Stack Exchange to access your contacts?") popped up immediately on tapping the "Login with Google" button.
So next to most account permissions (except for `GET_ACCOUNTS`, all of them are gone), which are dealt with in my other question already linked, the following permissions have been removed:
`ACCESS_MOCK_LOCATION` (now one has to configure a single app handling the MOCK\_LOCATION I've seen mentioned?), `CLEAR_APP_USER_DATA`, `GET_TOP_ACTIVITY_INFO`, `HARDWARE_CONTROLS`, `HARDWARE_TEST`, `INJECT_EVENTS`, `INTERNAL_SYSTEM_WINDOW`, `READ_HISTORY_BOOKMARKS`, `READ_PROFILE`, `READ_SOCIAL_STREAM`, `READ_USER_DICTIONARY`, `SET_ACTIVITY_WATCHER`, `SET_ORIENTATION`, `SET_POINTER_SPEED`, `STATUS_BAR`, `SUBSCRIBED_FEEDS_READ`, `SUBSCRIBED_FEEDS_WRITE`, `VOICEMAIL`, `WRITE_HISTORY_BOOKMARKS`, `WRITE_PROFILE`, `WRITE_SMS`, `WRITE_SOCIAL_STREAM`
### What does that mean for users and their privacy?
This is my main concern here. Unfortunately (one could almost say "as expected"), there was no official statement made on that – or I had already been aware of those changes a while ago. I hope some of our members who happen to be developers as well have deeper insight, and can help us out with some explanations and advice:
* have those groups/permissions simply be removed (or did some simply got renamed/replaced by others)?
* how is the data previously covered by them protected now?
* what are the implications for users and their privacy, and what can we do about it?
+ concerning the "do about it": sure there's root, XPosed and Xprivacy (how does the latter cope with those changes?) – but I also mean "the average user" without root here.<issue_comment>username_1: *As I said up above (somewhere) The new permissions system is a drain that shows that a new idea is not often a good idea.*
### Be warned! This may take a little bit to read, since I'll be talking about the history of android, and more! Go and grab a drink!
You good? Alright, dig In.
The origins of the new permission system
----------------------------------------
When Google began working on a way to forcibly grant and deny permissions on-the-fly, it was Android 4.3. It was a buggy mess, so they hid it. It can still be used, however, by creating a shortcut to the app ops settings menu. This menu was very similar to the current apps menu, but tapping an option immediately brings up the permissions options. You also had to discover the permissions before you could toggle them, and it was a buggy mess since apps wondered what the balls is going on because you disabled something, and inconveniently crashed. Yay.
The system was removed once modders had found it (so it was removed in 4.4),1 but made its return in Marshmallow. It looked really good - you could finally choose if things like Facebook could grab your location (though it did ask nicely). Even some Google apps, like Hangouts, aren't safe from your decisions. But then we hit the issue - the system is still broken, just in a new way: the permissions were heavily tweaked.
You want Stack Exchange to login via Google? It needs contacts permissions (though The devs at SE fixed that on their end).2 Want To upload images onto Facebook? It needs to see all your files. Why? **Compression**. Permissions are now **granted in groups,** where asking for your Google account also allows apps to see every contact on the device. I doubt that was intended, but the removal of most permissions meant that the had to simplify the playing field; most removed permissions were just [shoved into super-general groups](https://gist.github.com/andhie/70098e17ded91eee19e9).
Some of the permissions have been removed because of new SDK's. `GET_ACCOUNTS` Now triggers a new SDK which allows for Google sign-in, but falls back to doing it via contacts permissions if an app does not support it. That explains that one (including how the SE app was finally fixed), but some of the others don't get that treatment. AFAIK, Apps can just casually read the dictionary regardless through the keyboard. Most other permissions username_2 mentions seem to correlate with modified groups: Most fit into the 'Modify system settings' Godmission (permissions separate from the main ones) and 'usage access'. Some others are handled by apps themselves.
So, Anything not given a new home was killed off. Sometimes, this made sense (we only need `GET_ACCOUNTS` to trigger the SDK) While other times, it made you want to put a bullet into your phone: oh yeah, I'll just let you access my contacts, you seem fine. Sure, access my calls and waste my money. (Hopefully no one is *that* dumb. Hopefully.)
At first, I thought yay! Simplification! But it allows seemingly legitimate apps to do illegitimate stuff A LOT easier. Your Minecraft hack tool which wants your Google account is probably also robbing your contacts. And selling them.
This is then compounded by the Lockdown system for permissions, that allowed you to fine-tune app permissions. It's great, but it doesn't work. At all. It also is inaccurate (it e.g. says that Stack Exchange reads my SMS'. No, no it doesn't) and is just plain awful.
But what does that mean for my privacy?
---------------------------------------
I personally think one of two things:
1. The new permissions system was designed to allow simple, quick changes for the purpose of security. Permissions are now granted in groups, which explains why some are removed: Google thought that leaving them under one big header was a good idea (and for the end-user, I see why: controlling each individual permission could get tedious.) Of course, like communism, it was only good *on paper*; in reality, it's a shamble that they don't want to admit to. Fair enough.
2. However, they could be doing this to force more apps to use Their SDK to break alleviate suspicious permissions (Don't blame them) and therefore make more money. It's proved they are doing so (and are trying to make Android **less** open-source) which disgusts me.
So for the end-user, it's like a little bit of iOS - by which I mean something that looks good, but is crap. But can it be fixed? Kinda.
The "Work-arounds."
-------------------
### Method 1- Xprivacy (ROOT NEEDED BOI)
Xprivacy does work on Marshmallow, according to its devs, of course. It requires messing with all sorts of fiddly bits on MM now, and there is [verified boot](http://www.androidauthority.com/verified-boot-warnings-in-android-6-0-marshmallow-650368/). Which is a pain, since you'll probably get a red or yellow warning, which may prevent boot. (Depending on your luck, and how much messing you have done.) But if you can get Xprivacy working, its easy enough.
Due to the 'Wont boot FULL STOP' attitude N will apparently take, it may even be more of a nightmare to get working on that.
*2017 EDIT - Xposed devs are working on getting around all of this (yay!) If i find the post on XDA, I'll link it*
### METHOD 2 - Go full Lockdown on everything.
This is really fiddly, but allows for maximum control (as far as that's possible). You grant app permissions when absolutely needed, then make a mad dash to turn them back off again. Probably will be easier once Nougat drops on more devices, so multi-window can be used.
### METHOD 3 - Don't upgrade (which I'm dubbing the "username_2 solution")
If you did look up when I told you to, you may have noticed what username_2's method is: You simply refrain from upgrading to Marshmallow or Nougat. Boo-Hoo, I know, but neither are game-changing, really. Give it.... Six months, and most the crap for N will be on the play store, if you really want it. So, the username_2 solution means sticking with the definitely capable 5.1.1 or lower. I can live, and so can you.
### METHOD 4 - NUKE IT FROM ORBIT.
(Just to please the masses. FYI, this would be impossible.)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pFFYf.jpg)
Or, ignore it. Your call.
---
**EDIT** username_2 found a link to a [Stack Overflow question](https://stackoverflow.com/a/32161417/4992064 "SO question here") That explains that Credentials, *Like Logins for Signing in on various apps*, fall under a 'normal permission' ([protection-level](https://developer.android.com/reference/android/R.styleable.html#AndroidManifestPermission_protectionLevel) "normal") – i.e. any app can access them without you knowing. Luckily, some apps and logins will let you remove this through their account managers, Depending on how malicious the Dev is trying to be.
**EDIT 2** I forgot to say you can remove apps from accounts :) I'll be using The Google accounts and Facebook app accounts systems as examples, as they are the most used.
### Google accounts
1. Head to accounts.google.com or open the Google play settings (varies by device, usually a cog with a g in it)
2. Find apps/Connected apps/connected apps and services (again, Varies)
3. Find what you want to remove, and click 'remove'
DONE!
### Facebook
1. Login on the site
2. Head to account settings > apps
3. Find the target app, and click/tap remove.
Done!
Hope that helps! If not, just drop a comment, you know the drill. I'll be working on it anyways. **Done, but still let me know if I missed something!**
---
1 There were different attempts made by Google to "hide it better", and different versions of AppOps frontends brought it back then for 4.4 and 5.0, but no further
2 Apparently, apps can voluntarily use a new SDK that allows Google sign-in without the contacts permission. See [here for details](https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/285589/how-does-the-new-sign-in-system-work-for-the-android-app/).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Summing up my own findings – which might overlap with [Dan's answer](/a/159690/16575):
### Origin
Google started on the new permission system with Android Jellybean 4.3. Official intention (revealed later on) was to give users some control on what permissions an app should have access to ("permission on demand") – instead of the "All-or-Nothing" existing at the time (if you didn't like an app having a certain permission: either live with it, or don't install it). The AppOps interface was hidden, but soon revealed, hidden again (Kitkat/4.4), revealed again, and the same a third time with LP/5.0, after which it was protected in a way hard to circumvent.
### Current state
Finally, AppOps surfaced with Marshmallow/6.0. But instead of giving users fine-grained permission control, permissions are fine-drained and control is rather raw; if you e.g. want your travel app to be able of adding your bookings to your calendar, but not to read your other calendar entries: no way. Either you forbid calendar access, or you allow it. Similar for other permissions – as AppOps only deals with groups.**1**
Furthermore, a lot of permissions have either been removed completely, or assigned to [Protection Level](https://developer.android.com/reference/android/R.styleable.html#AndroidManifestPermission_protectionLevel "Android Permissions: Protection Level") "normal" – so they are automatically granted and cannot be revoked by the user. This is e.g. the case for the `INTERNET` permission, but also for `USE_CREDENTIALS` (so any app with this permission can use any of your accounts without your explicit approval!) or even `BLUETOOTH_ADMIN` (pair your Droid with any BT device in reach). For a detailed list, see [this Gist](https://gist.github.com/andhie/70098e17ded91eee19e9 "Marshmallow Permission Level").
Also, new protection levels have been added: `appop` for permissions the user has explicitly to grant via the new "on demand" system, `pre23` for permissions automatically granted if an app targets a version below MM (i.e. before "runtime permissions" where introduced), `preinstalled` for apps that shipped with the ROM (unclear how Android differentiates that from `system`, which was renamed to `privileged`), plus 3 more.
### Current state summed up
Basically, we're worse off now:
* number of permissions has been drastically reduced, meaning less granular protection
* many permissions have been moved to protection-level normal (and thus out of reach of AppOps)
* AppOps (runtime permission) is rather cosmetical due to its missing granularity and leaving out essential permissions
* apps can request additional permissions with an update. If they already hold a permission in the same group, the user is not notified ("does not require any special additional permission" text sounds familiar?). With the number of permission groups reduced as well, it even got easier to "sneak something in".
So in most cases this means the same as before MM: If you don't like an app having a certain permission, don't install it.
### How to deal with it from a user's perspective?
Multiple of the items in the following incomplete list can apply simultaneously. Make your pick:
* Don't update beyond LP if you don't like that (and can live with sticking to LP). That's what I do, until this mess has been cleaned up.
* Don't install apps if you don't want to give them access to what they request.
* When installing an update, don't trust that "no additional permissions" hint. Check in detail before you apply the update. This is not as easy as it used to be, as normally you don't see next-to-each-other which perms an app already has and how they differ from those requested by the update. In the Playstore app, you still get the complete list when scrolling to the end of an app's page and hit the "permission details" link. Do not ignore the "Others" section at the end of the list, as it includes things like `INTERNET`, `BLUETOOTH_ADMIN`, and other "surprises".
* to protect your device from rogue apps accessing the internet, consider using a [Firewall app](https://android.izzysoft.de/applists/category/named/network_admin_firewall#group_377 "Firewall apps at username_2OnDroid"). There are good ones not even requiring root and being FOSS, like [Netguard](https://f-droid.org/repository/browse/?fdid=eu.faircode.netguard "NetGuard noroot firewall at F-Droid").
* if root is an option, and installing the XPosed framework is as well (both available for MM, but installation might get quite tricky with N), use a [permission manager](https://android.izzysoft.de/applists/category/named/security_permissions#group_1028 "Permission Checkers at username_2OnDroid") like *Xprivacy* for granular permission control.
---
**1:**Obviously, the user shouldn't be "overstrained". Still, there could be an "advanced mode" to deal with it.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/18 | 1,697 | 7,125 | <issue_start>username_0: The [Developer documentation](https://developer.android.com/guide/topics/manifest/permission-element.html#plevel) writes on the protection level "signature":
>
> A permission that the system grants only if the requesting application is signed with the same certificate as the application that declared the permission. If the certificates match, the system automatically grants the permission without notifying the user or asking for the user's explicit approval.
>
>
>
This was as I always knew it. But it seems to somehow contradict what the same documentation writes about [WRITE\_SETTINGS](https://developer.android.com/reference/android/Manifest.permission.html#WRITE_SETTINGS), which is marked as "Protection level: signature":
>
> If the app targets API level 23 or higher, the app user must explicitly grant this permission to the app through a permission management screen.
>
>
>
Does that mean the behavior towards this has changed with Marshmallow – and a non-system app using a different signature can still access functionality covered by it, provided the user agrees? Also, with the new "mentality" of automatically granting permissions of a group where the user already has another permission granted: is this permission also granted automatically then (like with all permissions of the protection level "dangerous") – or is the difference here that it always requires the user's agreement, no matter what?
---
**Note 1:** there were a lot of changes towards how permissions are dealt with in Android 6+. To not make a "too broad" question, I've tried to split it up; so for the other parts, please also see: [Permission system changes with Android 6.0: What are the implications for us users?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/157905/16575) and [Android 6+ and account permissions: where have they gone to?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/157350/16575)
**Note 2:** This definitely *is* of relevance to the end user, as it's about his/her data – and cross-checking permissions for possible implications should be part of the installation or rather app selection process. I'm *not* asking from the perspective of a developer on how to deal with that when writing an app (though that might be interesting at well ;)<issue_comment>username_1: SHORT ANSWER
YES
---
LONG ANSWER
from [permission documentations](https://developer.android.com/guide/topics/security/permissions.html#normal-dangerous)
Permission groups
All dangerous Android system permissions belong to permission groups. If the device is running Android 6.0 (API level 23) and the app's targetSdkVersion is 23 or higher, the following system behavior applies when your app requests a dangerous permission:
If an app requests a dangerous permission listed in its manifest, and the app does not currently have any permissions in the permission group, the system shows a dialog box to the user describing the permission group that the app wants access to. The dialog box does not describe the specific permission within that group. For example, if an app requests the READ\_CONTACTS permission, the system dialog box just says the app needs access to the device's contacts. If the user grants approval, the system gives the app just the permission it requested.If an app requests a dangerous permission listed in its manifest, and the app already has another dangerous permission in the same permission group, the system immediately grants the permission without any interaction with the user. For example, if an app had previously requested and been granted the READ\_CONTACTS permission, and it then requests WRITE\_CONTACTS, the system immediately grants that permission.
---
Please Watch This About 23+ Practices
[BEST PRACTICES AND CHANGES FOR API 23 +](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f17qe9vZ8RM)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: No, the meaning of protection level of "signature" is not changed in Android 6.
We can 'git blame' the file PackageManagerService.java and check function [grantSignaturePermission](https://github.com/android/platform_frameworks_base/blame/marshmallow-release/services/core/java/com/android/server/pm/PackageManagerService.java#L8608). The basic logic didn't change since Android Lollipop. The following logic was added in Android 6:
```
if (!allowed && (bp.protectionLevel
& PermissionInfo.PROTECTION_FLAG_PRE23) != 0
&& pkg.applicationInfo.targetSdkVersion < Build.VERSION_CODES.M) {
// If this was a previously normal/dangerous permission that got moved
// to a system permission as part of the runtime permission redesign, then
// we still want to blindly grant it to old apps.
allowed = true;
}
if (!allowed && (bp.protectionLevel & PermissionInfo.PROTECTION_FLAG_INSTALLER) != 0
&& pkg.packageName.equals(mRequiredInstallerPackage)) {
// If this permission is to be granted to the system installer and
// this app is an installer, then it gets the permission.
allowed = true;
}
if (!allowed && (bp.protectionLevel & PermissionInfo.PROTECTION_FLAG_VERIFIER) != 0
&& pkg.packageName.equals(mRequiredVerifierPackage)) {
// If this permission is to be granted to the system verifier and
// this app is a verifier, then it gets the permission.
allowed = true;
}
if (!allowed && (bp.protectionLevel
& PermissionInfo.PROTECTION_FLAG_PREINSTALLED) != 0
&& isSystemApp(pkg)) {
// Any pre-installed system app is allowed to get this permission.
allowed = true;
}
```
From the above code, we can see,
* if the permission is specified with "signature|pre23" and the app target sdk version is less then 23, it will get this permission, because this permission was moved to system permission in Android 6.
* if the permission is specified with "signature|preinstalled" and the app is pre-installed system app, it will get the permission
* if the permission is specified with "signature|installer" or "signature|verifier" and the app is installer and verifier, it will get the permission.
**Conclusion**: the signature protection level didn't change its meaning in Android 6. If a permission has signature protection level with other flag, such as pre23, preinstalled, intaller or verifier, it has new meanings.
---
The following explains the confusion about WRITE\_SETTING permission in the question:
The documentation on [WRITE\_SETTING](https://developer.android.com/reference/android/Manifest.permission.html#WRITE_SETTINGS) is incorrect about protection level. If you look at the Android source code at [frameworks/base/core/res/AndroidManifest.xml](https://github.com/android/platform_frameworks_base/blob/marshmallow-release/core/res/AndroidManifest.xml#L1580):
```
```
you can see the protection level is **signature|preinstalled|appop|pre23**.
A non-system app using a different signature can access functionality because of the protection level of **appop**, which means the user can choose if this permission is on or off.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/09/18 | 384 | 1,472 | <issue_start>username_0: I am using Micromax android one. Till now my phone upgraded from 4.4.4 (KitKat) to 6.0.1(Marshmallow). But since my hardware configuration was getting low to get ready for N, How can I change my hardware configuration? I also want to know what hardware configuration required for Android Nougat.<issue_comment>username_1: It seems like you're using a first-gen Andriod one device.
Google has said in an official statement that'll they will **not** be updated to Nougat.
Your next best option is to try out a custom rom like Cyanogenmod 14 for your device.
PS: Do this only if you're confident that you will not brick your device.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Despite people saying certain levels of hardware are *required* for Android version bla.bla.bla, they're not. Look how older phones like HD2, Galaxy Nexus and Nexus 4 received Nougat treatment - it might not be smooth, but in the latter 2 cases are definitely usable.
The thing you'll be missing without official support is the proprietary drivers, which third-party devs won't be able to provide. If your processor is older (e.g. Snapdragon 800/801), you'll also miss out on newer features like Vulkan. But fret not, as Android still reserves a bit of backwards compatibility - devs can always work it so that it runs on legacy drivers and APIs.
As an Android One device you shouldn't be worried much - just wait for N-based custom ROMs to drop.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2016/09/18 | 425 | 1,828 | <issue_start>username_0: I'd like to know how the backend/permissions work for Android(I'm using v4.1.2 on a s3 mini).
On android, I'm capable of running GUI applications which have different UID/GID-s on the system as seen in ps/top output.
On a linux desktop, all applications you run as your user, unless you use sudo/su to run software as someone else.
So how does android run GUI apps without throwing up permission denied errors and asking for password from the start?
I've looked around on search results and haven't found anyone discussing this.<issue_comment>username_1: because all application processes are forked from zygote, which is running with root, it could su to any uid while forking
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Android uses (or *abuses*, depending on your point of view) the Unix user and permissions system for something other than separating different people on the same computer. Instead, it uses them to isolate apps from each other. Each installed package (app) has its own Unix user ID created. The files belonging to that app are owned by that Unix user, and can't be accessed by other Unix users. When an app is started, the *zygote* process (which is like GNU's *init*) ensures that it switches to the correct Unix user before running any of the app's code. That way, apps can't read or write files owned by other apps. If they try to do so, they'll get the kind of "permission denied" errors you're asking about.
The GUI really has nothing to do with filesystem permissions, because it's not a file on the filesystem. Only the Android system itself can write to the framebuffer directly: all apps go through *Surface Flinger*, the GUI compositor, to present their GUIs to be drawn on the screen. This doesn't go through the Unix permission system at all.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2016/09/18 | 221 | 779 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to root my Verizon note 5 what's the best way to without messing up my phone or regretting it? I have done it before and regretted doing it. I want the apps and I want to like my phone too<issue_comment>username_1: Unfortunately there is no root currently available for Verizon variants of the note 5. This is due to a completely locked down boot-loader and anti root protection from Samsung Knox.
It is conceivable that there will never be a root for this particular phone.
Source: <http://www.xda-developers.com/root-twrp-available-for-samsung-galaxy-note-5/>
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: ACTUALLY, you can root the Note 5. I found a very convincing video. Check out the link.
<https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=epLA2EjGXTg>
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/19 | 440 | 1,643 | <issue_start>username_0: My phone is rooted and has USB debugging enabled because I do some development on it. In a moment of pre-caffeinated mental weakness, I plugged it into a cheap Chinese power bank. The phone promptly stopped responding to touch input until I hard-rebooted. This reminded me that [malicious chargers are apparently a thing](https://media.blackhat.com/us-13/US-13-Lau-Mactans-Injecting-Malware-into-iOS-Devices-via-Malicious-Chargers-WP.pdf).
My google-fu hasn't shown any in the wild, I have no other symptoms, and Malwarebytes is giving me the all-clear... so I'm not particularly worried.
Generally speaking though, how would you go about detecting a malicious charger?<issue_comment>username_1: You can't. The only real world way to detect if a charger is malicious is to plug it into a device that it could possibly infect. Yes, I'm sure with some forensics equipment you could technically check for this kind of thing, but it just isn't practical.
Instead, only charge your device with chargers you can trust. If you see a USB charging port, or any kind of device that is supposed to charge your phone and you aren't sure what the other side is connected to (such as in airports where there are USB ports) don't use it.
It's more of a game of paranoia than detection. I wish there was a better alternative as much as you do.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Go to `hak5.org` and purchase their malicious cable detector. It costs $40-50. (I didn’t let the link connect so you can have the peace of mind that you are not unknowingly downloading malware by clicking a link on your mobile device).
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/09/19 | 1,542 | 5,201 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to add `/data/bin` to variable `PATH` at startup in order to have it available for any other app.
In Ubuntu I use the file `/etc/environment`, I cannot find anything similar in Android.
I discovered that `adb shell` detects `/data/bin` existence and adds it to `PATH`, the system doesn't seem to do the same at boot though.<issue_comment>username_1: Edit the file: `/system/etc/bash/bashrc` and **export** your environment variable there..
Actually, the default environment variables are predefined in the ramdisk's file: `init.environ.rc`. (You may unpack the boot.img to edit it and repack & flash it)..
You may also modify those system variables in the *bashrc* file itself..
Also check the `/system/etc/mkshrc` file..
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: >
> I discovered that `adb shell` detects `/data/bin` existence and adds it to `PATH`, the system doesn't seem to do the same at boot though.
>
>
>
It's because `adb shell` starts a [shell](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unix_shell) process (Android's default is [MirBSD Korn Shell](http://www.mirbsd.org/mksh.htm)) which reads its configuration file `/etc/mkshrc` and can easily change environment variables. But apps inherit their environment from `zygote`, so we need to set variables before `zygote` starts.
Edit `/init.rc` file or any other `.rc` file or create your own. Append or prepend directories to Android's default `PATH`:
```
# /system/etc/init/path.rc
on init
export PATH /data/bin:/sbin:/system/sbin:/system/bin:/system/xbin:/odm/bin:/vendor/bin:/vendor/xbin
```
---
DETAILS:
--------
On Linux distros `/etc/environment` is evaluated by PAM (a set of libraries called modules) which is a centralized authentication mechanism used by privilege granting and administering programs like `login`, `su`, `sshd`, `passwd`, `useradd` etc. First process `init` - after starting system services - drops us to a login shell or display manager (which starts a display server like X.Org to show GUI), running on a virtual terminal. When logging in a user, shells and display managers are configured to read and set environment from different files like `passwd`, `login.defs`, `profile`, `bashrc` `xsessionrc` etc. usually found in `/etc` or user's `HOME` directory. This environment is inherited by CLI utilities as well as GUI programs which run in desktop environment, including terminal emulators. Applications which attach to terminals also set `TERM`.
However on Android there is no concept of `getty`, `login`, text terminal logins and traditional X window system. There are no user sessions and hence no login files. `init` starts `zygote` which loads Android's Java framework, and after starting services in `system_server`, it forks virtual machines in which apps run. So the first thing we see (after animation ends) is an app; System UI (lock screen) or Home/Launcher app hosted by SurfaceFlinger - Android's display server. Mainly environment of all these programs is set in `init`'s `.rc` files through `export` [command](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/master/init/README.md#commands). `/init.environ.rc` ([1](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/rootdir/init.environ.rc.in)) exports variables like `ANDROID_ROOT`, `ANDROID_DATA`, `ANDROID_STORAGE` and others. Or programs set some variables themselves e.g. `logd` sets `TZ` ([2](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/logd/main.cpp#427)) to ensure correct timestamps in `logcat`, and `adbd` sets `EXTERNAL_STORAGE` ([3](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/adb/daemon/main.cpp#196)).
Commonly used variables for Java framework are defined [here](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/frameworks/base/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/core/java/android/os/Environment.java#33). `PATH` is set by `init` on boot ([4](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/init/init.cpp#574)) and is part of Bionic libc definitions ([5](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/bionic/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/libc/include/paths.h#41)). CLI shell utilities like `su` ([6](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/extras/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/su/su.cpp#121)) and `run-as` ([7](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/run-as/run-as.cpp#208)) also define `PATH`, `HOME`, `LOGNAME`, `USER`, `SHELL` etc. `DOWNLOAD_CACHE` is set in `/init.rc` ([8](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/rootdir/init.rc#250)) and `ANDROID_ROOT` is set by `zygote` ([9](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/frameworks/base/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/core/jni/AndroidRuntime.cpp#1082)) itself.
Shell specific configuration files like `bashrc` or `mkshrc` are read only if you use `adb shell` or a terminal emulator app.
---
**FURTHER READING:**
* [[INFO] TERMINAL, SHELL & DISPLAY SERVER on LINUX, ANDROID & WINDOWS](https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/info-terminal-shell-display-server-t3756163)
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/09/20 | 1,602 | 5,416 | <issue_start>username_0: Steps I took:
1. Downloaded Samsung drivers and installed
2. Downloaded Odin v1.85
3. Booted up tablet and pressed "Volume Down" button, ran Odin and began download
4. Turned off tablet when I shouldn't have...
When I boot it up, I get a message which reads, "Firmware upgrade encountered an issue. Please select recovery mode in Kies & try again."
5. Connected the tablet to laptop, started Kies but it does not connect
Ran it again in Odin mode and KNOX warranty is voided. Also doesn't connect.
Is there a reliable way to reinstall stock firmware?<issue_comment>username_1: Edit the file: `/system/etc/bash/bashrc` and **export** your environment variable there..
Actually, the default environment variables are predefined in the ramdisk's file: `init.environ.rc`. (You may unpack the boot.img to edit it and repack & flash it)..
You may also modify those system variables in the *bashrc* file itself..
Also check the `/system/etc/mkshrc` file..
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: >
> I discovered that `adb shell` detects `/data/bin` existence and adds it to `PATH`, the system doesn't seem to do the same at boot though.
>
>
>
It's because `adb shell` starts a [shell](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unix_shell) process (Android's default is [MirBSD Korn Shell](http://www.mirbsd.org/mksh.htm)) which reads its configuration file `/etc/mkshrc` and can easily change environment variables. But apps inherit their environment from `zygote`, so we need to set variables before `zygote` starts.
Edit `/init.rc` file or any other `.rc` file or create your own. Append or prepend directories to Android's default `PATH`:
```
# /system/etc/init/path.rc
on init
export PATH /data/bin:/sbin:/system/sbin:/system/bin:/system/xbin:/odm/bin:/vendor/bin:/vendor/xbin
```
---
DETAILS:
--------
On Linux distros `/etc/environment` is evaluated by PAM (a set of libraries called modules) which is a centralized authentication mechanism used by privilege granting and administering programs like `login`, `su`, `sshd`, `passwd`, `useradd` etc. First process `init` - after starting system services - drops us to a login shell or display manager (which starts a display server like X.Org to show GUI), running on a virtual terminal. When logging in a user, shells and display managers are configured to read and set environment from different files like `passwd`, `login.defs`, `profile`, `bashrc` `xsessionrc` etc. usually found in `/etc` or user's `HOME` directory. This environment is inherited by CLI utilities as well as GUI programs which run in desktop environment, including terminal emulators. Applications which attach to terminals also set `TERM`.
However on Android there is no concept of `getty`, `login`, text terminal logins and traditional X window system. There are no user sessions and hence no login files. `init` starts `zygote` which loads Android's Java framework, and after starting services in `system_server`, it forks virtual machines in which apps run. So the first thing we see (after animation ends) is an app; System UI (lock screen) or Home/Launcher app hosted by SurfaceFlinger - Android's display server. Mainly environment of all these programs is set in `init`'s `.rc` files through `export` [command](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/master/init/README.md#commands). `/init.environ.rc` ([1](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/rootdir/init.environ.rc.in)) exports variables like `ANDROID_ROOT`, `ANDROID_DATA`, `ANDROID_STORAGE` and others. Or programs set some variables themselves e.g. `logd` sets `TZ` ([2](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/logd/main.cpp#427)) to ensure correct timestamps in `logcat`, and `adbd` sets `EXTERNAL_STORAGE` ([3](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/adb/daemon/main.cpp#196)).
Commonly used variables for Java framework are defined [here](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/frameworks/base/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/core/java/android/os/Environment.java#33). `PATH` is set by `init` on boot ([4](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/init/init.cpp#574)) and is part of Bionic libc definitions ([5](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/bionic/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/libc/include/paths.h#41)). CLI shell utilities like `su` ([6](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/extras/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/su/su.cpp#121)) and `run-as` ([7](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/run-as/run-as.cpp#208)) also define `PATH`, `HOME`, `LOGNAME`, `USER`, `SHELL` etc. `DOWNLOAD_CACHE` is set in `/init.rc` ([8](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/rootdir/init.rc#250)) and `ANDROID_ROOT` is set by `zygote` ([9](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/frameworks/base/+/refs/tags/android-9.0.0_r47/core/jni/AndroidRuntime.cpp#1082)) itself.
Shell specific configuration files like `bashrc` or `mkshrc` are read only if you use `adb shell` or a terminal emulator app.
---
**FURTHER READING:**
* [[INFO] TERMINAL, SHELL & DISPLAY SERVER on LINUX, ANDROID & WINDOWS](https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/general/info-terminal-shell-display-server-t3756163)
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/09/20 | 1,312 | 4,542 | <issue_start>username_0: See this pic, and why 4:3 AR has more MP than 16:9? This is my Moto G4 Plus's default camera app.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mdWDGm.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: The aspect ratio has nothing to do with megapixels. Part of a 4:3 image are removed to get a 16:9 resolution, that is why a 16:9 image has less pixels.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qnC2j.gif)
The purple rectangle is your 4:3 picture, and the green rectangle is the 16:9 picture cropped out of 4:3 by the software. 2 megapixels are just removed from an original photo.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: [Glossary of Digital Photography Terms](http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/glossary-digital-photography-terms) :
>
> **Megapixel:** A megapixel contains 1,000,000 pixels and is the unit of measure used to describe the size of the sensor in a digital camera.
>
>
> **Aspect Ratio:** Aspect ratio refers to the shape, or format, of the image produced by a camera. The ratio is derived by dividing the width and height of the image
>
>
>
You can think of *aspect ratio* as *size* of picture and *Megapixel* count ( in relation to aspect ratio) as the *area* or *number of pixels* contained in that aspect ratio
Camera sensors in Android phones are *rectangular* . Android camera sensors are usually at default 4:3 ratio and in this they capture maximum Megapixels.
16:9 is **not** bigger than 4:3 area wise and this setting facilitates capturing photos which is more aesthetic in certain situations. 16:9 is actually a *smaller* area than 4:3 hence results in *lesser* pixels ( it is cropped by software). The sensor resolution is the same in both cases, it is just that 16:9 has lesser pixels due to cropping
[Picture Source](http://www.allaboutsymbian.com/features/item/18899_How_to_understand_camera_phone.php)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YhweB.jpg)
That explains the difference in Megapixel count
Aside, the first two settings (with higher Megapixel count) are for the *rear* camera and the other two for *front* camera. The Megapixel count is lesser for front camera since it's resolution of lower ( invariably the case with mobile phones)
**When to choose 4:3 or 16:9?**
4:3 ratio is better for quality and prints, whereas 16:9 is more suited for landscape / wide screen viewing on phone or casting to a TV. A 4:3 aspect ratio means that for every 4 inches of width in an image, you will have 3 inches of height. In mathematical terms, that comes out to the screen being **33% wider** than it is high. A 16:9 aspect ratio means that for every 16 inches of width in an image, you will have 9 inches of height. Unlike the 4:3 aspect ratio, a 16:9 aspect ratio is **78% wider** than high - [Source](http://www.steves-digicams.com/knowledge-center/how-tos/digital-camera-operation/the-difference-between-a-169-aspect-ratio-and-43-aspect-ratio.html)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: It all depends on the aspect ratio of the photographic sensor included with the device. Sensors come in all sorts of sizes and aspect ratios. Common aspect ratios include 16:9, 4:3, and 1:1.
If the sensor's aspect ratio is 4:3, then 16:9 images will not use the entire sensor. Similarly, if a sensor's aspect ratio is 16:9, then 4:3 images will not use the entire sensor. The other current answers, although both partially incorrect, include excellent images demonstrating why this is the case for 4:3 sensors, and you can create a mental image of why this is also true for 16:9 sensors.
Your device apparently has a 4:3 aspect ratio sensor. If you prefer higher-resolution photographs with a 16:9 aspect ratio, you will have to buy a different device, preferably one with a 16:9 aspect ratio sensor.
Generally speaking, something close to 4:3 aspect ratio is preferred for prints, but something close to 16:9 aspect ratio is preferred for viewing on smartphones, tablets, and modern widescreen televisions. This is because, historically, printing was more commonly performed at aspect ratios *closer to* square (with 3:2 being very common), whereas digital screens have gotten much squatter over the years due to manufacturers making them closer to the aspect ratio found in movie theatres over the last half-century (much to the dismay of those of us who prefer 4:3 aspect ratio for computer screens!).
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/09/20 | 1,637 | 6,029 | <issue_start>username_0: So one night I got crazy and installed tons of apps that have background processing on my galaxy tab 8.0, they were draining its battery really fast. Android itself suggested to limit some of them to improve my battery life on the notifications tab, I tapped on that notification and limited some of them.
Now 2 weeks later I've found that my individual alarm app that I use doesn't ring anymore, I need to get access to that limiting feature again to see if I have limited my alarm app or not, but I don't seem to find it anywhere in the settings. Googling doesn't help either because it only finds those articles that are advertising some background process limiting app indirectly.
I know uninstalling and reinstalling my alarm app or some other usual routines can fix the problem, but I need to know what exactly is causing its alarms to not go off to prevent it in the future, I can lose my job if I oversleep again.
Update : I've found out that it's a Samsung feature called "App optimisation", I'm guessing tab 8.0 isn't supposed to have that feature, so they have removed its shortcut from the settings, but not the actual feature from the os, and they forgot to disable the notification alert whenever there are a lot of apps with background processing, so that's why I had access to this feature earlier.
Now my question is, are there any other ways to access "app optimisation" other than through settings under the battery tab? Because it's not there for me.
Update #2:It alerted me again so I took a screenshot before closing it.I haven't found any other way to get access to this feature yet.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/M8GJa.png)<issue_comment>username_1: The aspect ratio has nothing to do with megapixels. Part of a 4:3 image are removed to get a 16:9 resolution, that is why a 16:9 image has less pixels.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qnC2j.gif)
The purple rectangle is your 4:3 picture, and the green rectangle is the 16:9 picture cropped out of 4:3 by the software. 2 megapixels are just removed from an original photo.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: [Glossary of Digital Photography Terms](http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/glossary-digital-photography-terms) :
>
> **Megapixel:** A megapixel contains 1,000,000 pixels and is the unit of measure used to describe the size of the sensor in a digital camera.
>
>
> **Aspect Ratio:** Aspect ratio refers to the shape, or format, of the image produced by a camera. The ratio is derived by dividing the width and height of the image
>
>
>
You can think of *aspect ratio* as *size* of picture and *Megapixel* count ( in relation to aspect ratio) as the *area* or *number of pixels* contained in that aspect ratio
Camera sensors in Android phones are *rectangular* . Android camera sensors are usually at default 4:3 ratio and in this they capture maximum Megapixels.
16:9 is **not** bigger than 4:3 area wise and this setting facilitates capturing photos which is more aesthetic in certain situations. 16:9 is actually a *smaller* area than 4:3 hence results in *lesser* pixels ( it is cropped by software). The sensor resolution is the same in both cases, it is just that 16:9 has lesser pixels due to cropping
[Picture Source](http://www.allaboutsymbian.com/features/item/18899_How_to_understand_camera_phone.php)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YhweB.jpg)
That explains the difference in Megapixel count
Aside, the first two settings (with higher Megapixel count) are for the *rear* camera and the other two for *front* camera. The Megapixel count is lesser for front camera since it's resolution of lower ( invariably the case with mobile phones)
**When to choose 4:3 or 16:9?**
4:3 ratio is better for quality and prints, whereas 16:9 is more suited for landscape / wide screen viewing on phone or casting to a TV. A 4:3 aspect ratio means that for every 4 inches of width in an image, you will have 3 inches of height. In mathematical terms, that comes out to the screen being **33% wider** than it is high. A 16:9 aspect ratio means that for every 16 inches of width in an image, you will have 9 inches of height. Unlike the 4:3 aspect ratio, a 16:9 aspect ratio is **78% wider** than high - [Source](http://www.steves-digicams.com/knowledge-center/how-tos/digital-camera-operation/the-difference-between-a-169-aspect-ratio-and-43-aspect-ratio.html)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: It all depends on the aspect ratio of the photographic sensor included with the device. Sensors come in all sorts of sizes and aspect ratios. Common aspect ratios include 16:9, 4:3, and 1:1.
If the sensor's aspect ratio is 4:3, then 16:9 images will not use the entire sensor. Similarly, if a sensor's aspect ratio is 16:9, then 4:3 images will not use the entire sensor. The other current answers, although both partially incorrect, include excellent images demonstrating why this is the case for 4:3 sensors, and you can create a mental image of why this is also true for 16:9 sensors.
Your device apparently has a 4:3 aspect ratio sensor. If you prefer higher-resolution photographs with a 16:9 aspect ratio, you will have to buy a different device, preferably one with a 16:9 aspect ratio sensor.
Generally speaking, something close to 4:3 aspect ratio is preferred for prints, but something close to 16:9 aspect ratio is preferred for viewing on smartphones, tablets, and modern widescreen televisions. This is because, historically, printing was more commonly performed at aspect ratios *closer to* square (with 3:2 being very common), whereas digital screens have gotten much squatter over the years due to manufacturers making them closer to the aspect ratio found in movie theatres over the last half-century (much to the dismay of those of us who prefer 4:3 aspect ratio for computer screens!).
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/09/20 | 284 | 1,063 | <issue_start>username_0: Is there a Google Now voice command to toggle auto screen orientation (e.g. "Ok Google, enable screen rotation")?
I know there are commands to toggle Bluetooth or Wifi, but is there a command to change the screen orientation?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes. You have to use Google Now launcher and the latest update of google now
source: <http://www.clintonfitch.com/2016/02/how-to-enable-screen-rotation-in-google-now/>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: After some investigation I could not find a voice command. But this can be archived by using a combination of Tasker and the AutoVoice Tasker plugin.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: * There isn't an *official* Google Now commands list
* See this [recent reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/Android/comments/4qebru/ok_google_explore_over_150_google_now_voice/) post, where the OP has created this [web site](http://ok-google.io/) dedicated to known Google Now commands and their variations.
* There is **no command** for changing screen automation
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2016/09/21 | 323 | 1,220 | <issue_start>username_0: I have unlimited mobile data on my phone. but i want to cast to the chromecast. But i cant find a way to do that using my current knowledge.
the setup require .
data streaming using mobile data in mobile
and casting using wifi from mobile.
i tried to connect to guest mode. but that allows only limited apps allowed by chromecast to cast to the device.
is there anyother options.<issue_comment>username_1: Yes. You have to use Google Now launcher and the latest update of google now
source: <http://www.clintonfitch.com/2016/02/how-to-enable-screen-rotation-in-google-now/>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: After some investigation I could not find a voice command. But this can be archived by using a combination of Tasker and the AutoVoice Tasker plugin.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: * There isn't an *official* Google Now commands list
* See this [recent reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/Android/comments/4qebru/ok_google_explore_over_150_google_now_voice/) post, where the OP has created this [web site](http://ok-google.io/) dedicated to known Google Now commands and their variations.
* There is **no command** for changing screen automation
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2016/09/21 | 297 | 1,133 | <issue_start>username_0: My Samsung Galaxy S6 with Android 6.0.1 always dims the screen when hitting 5% remaining battery. This is very bad in bright sunlight because the screen gets so dark that it's impossible to use the phone and pure guesswork to brighten it again. This “feature“ seems to override both auto and manual brightness setting. It also happens irrespective of power saving mode on/off. How can I stop it from doing this?<issue_comment>username_1: I believe you are looking for Power Saver Mode. This is under the *Settings > Battery*.
There is usually an option to turn on Power Saver Mode altogether or adjust what it does.
See
<http://www.samsung.com/us/support/answer/ANS00038729/>
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Samsung Galaxy Phones do dim their phones once it reaches the low level of battery. You may try this: <http://www.samsung.com/ie/support/skp/faq/1056771>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: That feature is built into the kernel. You would need an unlocked boot loader and a custom recovery. Then you could flash a different kernel or custom rom to achieve this.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2016/09/21 | 547 | 2,112 | <issue_start>username_0: I got a notification this morning on my Nexus 6p informing me that the Android 7.0 Nougat update was ready to download and install on my phone. The troubling thing about this was the following text:
>
> Future security updates may be downloaded and installed automatically, possibly using cellular data.
>
>
>
I don't want any updates to download and install over cellular, *ever*. I am very frugal on my data usage, and normally have cellular data turned off - I turn it on only when I specifically need it. The wording of the above text is just enough to make me wonder exactly to what lengths Android 7 is going to go to try to download security updates, and what control I am going to have over it, to the point that I'm not going to just allow it to perform this update without knowing more. However, so far at least documentation on this seems to be hard to come by.
Is it possible to disable security updates over cellular? I usually have a WiFi connection so it's not like I'm going for days with old software. If not, will there be some kind of warning so if I am on cellular at the time I can prevent it from downloading until I get to WiFi?
Will Android 7.0 Nougat turn on mobile data even when I have it off just so it can download updates, or is turning off cellular data sufficient to prevent it from doing so?<issue_comment>username_1: Android won't download updates weather OS or app updates over Mobile network on less you say so or have the option turned on.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: This issue already been raised to dev team.
Check ["System update using cellular data"](https://issuetracker.google.com/issues/37130318) thread for more details.
>
> They said its fixed and fix will be pushed in future builds
>
>
>
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uzvMj.png)
But someone already mentioned that its not fixed yet (check date).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5P1pS.png)
Keep following that thread.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/09/21 | 2,291 | 7,580 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been suffering through this for a couple weeks now, hoping that an update would fix it, but now I don't know who to turn to. So, I develop apps for android and iOS. Typically I just test on my own phone, which is a Galaxy S7 Edge. When I got it, I looked up how to access developer mode and did that. I then turned on USB debugging, however, when I hooked up my phone, my Android Studio could not find the device.
I looked at my options under the "Use USB for..." menu and picked 'Software installation'. My Android Studio found my device and I started using it to test apps. It worked great, so I didn't ask any questions, until a couple weeks ago, after a security update I started getting a weird error. Every time I was connected to my computer and I set my usb mode to Software installation, after about 30 seconds it would change to File Transfer mode on its own.
I cannot be in Software installation mode for more than a minute at any given time, and when I am in File Transfer mode, my Android Studio won't register my phone as a debugging device. I downloaded the most recent update today, but that didn't fix my issue. I Googled the issue, but I can't find anyone who seems to have had this problem. Has anyone had this problem? Does anyone have a clue how to fix it?
Tl;dr: My phone cannot stay in Software installation mode long enough for me to download an app from Android Studio to test. I'm using 6.0.1<issue_comment>username_1: When you say you're setting the mode under "Use USB For", do you mean the one that should show up as a notification, or the one in Developer Options?
If you mean the notification, check the one in Developer Options, in stock Android, there's an option in the Networking subsection labeled "Select USB Configuration"
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Sorry, not an answer but rather some information, too much to put into comments. perhaps this could help someone determine what could be hapening.
Scenario **Windows 7**, **AS 2.1.2**, **Genymotion 2.8** (but initially using a 2.6 device API 22). Working fine for a few hours (*actually a bit of a lie as had tablet plugged in as well but need to start somewhere in the viscous circle*). Started **ADM** (Android Device Monitor) (better/easier feedback). Still OK (i.e just genymotion device visible).
**1)** Plugin in Lenovo A10-30 API 24 with **MTP** enabled but **NOT USB Debug**. All fine.
**2)** Switch to charging. No change in AS or ADM.
**3)** Turn on USB Debug. Immediately disconnects Genymotion Device and tries but fails to connect tablet (and less frequently, I think the Genymotion device). Log ADM extract :-
```
[2016-10-27 13:47:19 - DeviceMonitor] Adb connection Error:An existing connection was forcibly closed by the remote host
[2016-10-27 13:47:20 - DeviceMonitor] Connection attempts: 1
[2016-10-27 13:47:21 - DeviceMonitor] Adb connection Error:An existing connection was forcibly closed by the remote host
[2016-10-27 13:47:22 - DeviceMonitor] Connection attempts: 1
[2016-10-27 13:47:24 - DeviceMonitor] Connection attempts: 2
[2016-10-27 13:47:27 - DeviceMonitor] Adb connection Error:An existing connection was forcibly closed by the remote host
[2016-10-27 13:47:28 - DeviceMonitor] Connection attempts: 1
[2016-10-27 13:47:30 - DeviceMonitor] Adb connection Error:An existing connection was forcibly closed by the remote host
[2016-10-27 13:47:31 - DeviceMonitor] Connection attempts: 1
[2016-10-27 13:47:32 - DeviceMonitor] Adb connection Error:An existing connection was forcibly closed by the remote host
[2016-10-27 13:47:33 - DeviceMonitor] Connection attempts: 1
[2016-10-27 13:47:35 - DeviceMonitor] Adb connection Error:An existing connection was forcibly closed by the remote host
[2016-10-27 13:47:36 - DeviceMonitor] Connection attempts: 1
[2016-10-27 13:47:38 - DeviceMonitor] Adb connection Error:An existing connection was forcibly closed by the remote host
[2016-10-27 13:47:39 - DeviceMonitor] Connection attempts: 1
[2016-10-27 13:47:40 - DeviceMonitor] Adb connection Error:An existing connection was forcibly closed by the remote host
[2016-10-27 13:47:41 - DeviceMonitor] Connection attempts: 1
[2016-10-27 13:47:43 - DeviceMonitor] Adb connection Error:An existing connection was forcibly closed by the remote host
[2016-10-27 13:47:45 - DeviceMonitor] Connection attempts: 1
[2016-10-27 13:47:46 - DeviceMonitor] Adb connection Error:An existing connection was forcibly closed by the remote host
[2016-10-27 13:47:47 - DeviceMonitor] Connection attempts: 1
[2016-10-27 13:47:49 - DeviceMonitor] Connection attempts: 2
```
Adroid Monitor in AS shows the following message frequently (Genymotion devices shows Disconnected) :-
```
01-01 00:00:00.000 0-0/? E/Internal: An existing connection was forcibly closed by the remote host
```
**4)** After about **5 minutes** turn **USB Debug** off on Tablet.
Aprrox 3 minutes later, after :-
```
[2016-10-27 13:54:07 - DeviceMonitor] Adb connection Error:An existing connection was forcibly closed by the remote host
[2016-10-27 13:54:08 - DeviceMonitor] Connection attempts: 1
```
***Genymotion device is now re-connected.***
---
**6)** Turn **MTP** on (File Transfers on on Tablet), USB Debug still off.
Other than the windows dialog, nothing changes (AS and ADM show Genymotion device as connected).
**7)** Turn **USB Debug** on on the Tablet (from developer options)
Basically the same happens again. So I stop USB debug on Tablet and wait.
**8)** **Revoke USB debugging authorisation** on the Tablet and try **USB Debug** again. Allow it always.
Same Again. So stop USB Debug on Tablet and wait another 3 minutes or so for the Genymotion device to reconnect.
**9)** **Stop** the Genymotion device. So nothing is connected.
**10)** Turn **USB Debug** on on the Tablet. Tablet connects OK.
**11)** **Start** Genymotion device connects OK and tablet still connected.
**12)** Plug in an an **HTC Sensation XL (Android 4.0.3)** same again but disconnects both the Tablet and the Genymotion device. Disconnect the HTC phone and wait the obligatory 3 minutes or so. Both reconnect.
**13)** Stop the Genymotion device (tablet still connected) and try connecting the HTC phone. HTC phone connects and the Tablet remains connected.
**14)** Start the Genymotion device, it connects and the other 2 (Tablet and Phone) remain connected.
>
> A thought, is it due to the Genymotion virtual device? Perhaps a virtual device must be the last to be connected. Perhaps you may
> be using an AVD if so perhaps try disabling that and see what happens
> (I can't use AVD I think due to having an AMD chip).
>
>
>
**Updated 23/11/2016**
In brief I don't think that Genymotion is the issue but perhaps Android Studio.
Today I purchased another Tablet, an Onix 10.1 Quad Core. Pretty similar spec to the Lenovo. The main difference being a smaller screen (1024x600).
However, I have been experiencing similar issues connecting to it. That is the dreaded *"An existing connection was forcibly closed by the remote host"*.
It appears to be even harder to get connected than the Genymotion devices.
My last successful attempt was made after numerous failed attempts and was when I closed and then restarted Android Studio. Hence why I now suspect that AS is perhaps the cause. If I look into this further I may update this with my findings.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I had this error on my Verizon S7. The fix was to go to applications, and force stop KNOX. This allowed me to use adb from regular file transfer.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/09/22 | 930 | 3,297 | <issue_start>username_0: To do a demo of my application to a group of persons, I need to cast my Android desktop to a TV.
Someone borrowed me a device that looks like [this one](https://www.amazon.fr/Chromecast-Incredibly-Useful-Guidelines-Smart/dp/1523903325/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474546418&sr=8-3&keywords=chromecast) (probably not exactly the same version). However, it apparently requires a Wifi network to be used to cast some content.
Is there some other chromecast devices that would not require any Wifi connection to be used?<issue_comment>username_1: NO you need wifi. or create a hotspot with your phone and connect it to that
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Chromecast needs *some* sort of connection in order to receive the media to display. Wi-Fi is the main option via a wireless router or a personal hot-spot. Google also sells an [Ethernet adapter](https://store.google.com/product/ethernet_adapter_for_chromecast) that you can plug into your wired network.
Usually Chromecast requires Internet connectivity to function, but it is possible to trick it into working on a hot-spot that lacks Internet connectivity. This work-around requires 2 Android devices for initial set-up, and the [LocalCast app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.stefanpledl.localcast&hl=en&gl=us). The steps are described [here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dayDQ.jpg) and [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/LifeProTips/comments/38sb3v/lpt_use_chromecast_without_internetmobile_data_by/crxfse8).
Quote:
>
> * Gather two devices
> * One must be an Android cell phone with mobile capability. The second can be any device that is capable of local media
> * open "settings" on cell phone
> * open "more networks"
> * select "mobile hotspot"
> * turn on "mobile hotspot"
> * go into "mobile hotspot" settings by selecting the 3 vertical dots in the upper-right corner
> * select configure hotspot
> * type in a name you would like to call your mobile hotspot network or leave the default name
> * scroll down to choose a password for this network
>
>
> Now we must switch the Wi-Fi network that the Chromecast is paired to.
>
>
> * ensure that the second device (the one you wish to cast from) is connected to the same network that the Chromecast is paired to (the
> pairing was done when you first setup your Chromecast)
> * open the Chromecast app (if using iOS or Android) or open Chrome if using Linux, Windows, or MacOS
> * From the app choose the name of the Chromecast or from Chrome select the Chromecast icon in the upper-right of the screen, and then
> choose the name of the Chromecast
> * Select "Wi-Fi"
> * Select the name of the network you are on (this will drop-down a menu with other networks)
> * Select the name of the mobile hotspot network you created and enter password
> * This will successfully switch the network that the Chromecast looks to connect to
>
>
> Now we will open LocalCast app and cast the video we desire. And
> lastly we will go back to the cell phone and turn off "mobile data"
> and leave on "mobile hotspot"
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Apparently ezCast allows to do that (chrome with no Wifi available), it setup its own Wifi network.
<https://forum.iezvu.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=407>
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/23 | 755 | 3,109 | <issue_start>username_0: I currently own a Galaxy Note 7 which is running the stock ROM (from T-Mobile) and has *not* been rooted, yet.
The only major reason I have not rooted the device is that doing so will consequently block access to Samsung Pay, which is a sacrifice I am not willing to make. I understand why this restriction exists, but I still wish there was a way I could "have my cake and eat it too."
After looking at the teasers for the new Galaxy Gear 3, one of the things I noticed that piques my interest most is its support for Samsung Pay, but I am not entirely sure how it works.
A quick search seems to indicate that the Gear S2 model requires pairing with a Samsung phone to utilize it. However, with the Gear S3 now offering built-in LTE support, it can theoretically function fully with or without your phone on hand. In fact, this appears to be one of the new models major selling points.
So tl;dr: If I was to buy the Gear S3 and root my phone after, could I continue to utilize Samsung Pay on just the Gear itself without issues, or would this also block Samsung Pay from running on the Gear as well?<issue_comment>username_1: According to the official web page... LTE watches work after an initial pairing with your smartphone & Samsung Pay works after initial set up with your phone and then you only get 5 payments with the watch without a phone before it needs to reconnect and re pair with your phone.
source: <http://www.samsung.com/us/explore/gear-s3/?cid=ppc->
1\* 4G LTE standalone connectivity only available on Samsung Gear S3 frontier version, a companion for compatible Android smartphones, sold separately. Standalone connectivity requires initial pairing of Gear S3 frontier with compatible phone and separate qualifying wireless plan. Standalone functionality limited if paired phone is not powered on or connected to a wireless network. Network coverage not available everywhere. Consult carrier for details.
2\* Make up to five payments on your Gear S3 without a Galaxy smartphone nearby after initial setup. Reload payment capability by connecting to a Galaxy smartphone via Bluetooth. Only compatible with select cards, carriers and Samsung devices; see the Samsung Pay Support page <http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/app/samsung-pay#compatibility> for compatibility information.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I currently have an S5 and a Gear S2 with Samsung Pay. While my S5 is not rooted, I cannot even get Samsung Pay for my S5. However, I'm using it with my Gear S2. So, I'm not sure how things will tie together, but I'd like to know this, as well. I want to get away from AT&T ROMs and load something custom. Simultaneously, I'd like to have Samsung Pay. Based on the fact that my current phone doesn't have the app, but the watch does, I think it might work with a rooted phone. The pairing and 5 payment limit refers to the watch communicating with the Gear App (and Samsung Pay portion of that) on your phone. It does not mean Samsung Pay on your watch needs to talk to a Samsung Pay app on your phone.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/23 | 527 | 2,187 | <issue_start>username_0: I have rooted my LYK-4503 from kingroot and then I uninstall the app and now I am not able to open google play store and I am not able to download or update any app... Please help me<issue_comment>username_1: According to the official web page... LTE watches work after an initial pairing with your smartphone & Samsung Pay works after initial set up with your phone and then you only get 5 payments with the watch without a phone before it needs to reconnect and re pair with your phone.
source: <http://www.samsung.com/us/explore/gear-s3/?cid=ppc->
1\* 4G LTE standalone connectivity only available on Samsung Gear S3 frontier version, a companion for compatible Android smartphones, sold separately. Standalone connectivity requires initial pairing of Gear S3 frontier with compatible phone and separate qualifying wireless plan. Standalone functionality limited if paired phone is not powered on or connected to a wireless network. Network coverage not available everywhere. Consult carrier for details.
2\* Make up to five payments on your Gear S3 without a Galaxy smartphone nearby after initial setup. Reload payment capability by connecting to a Galaxy smartphone via Bluetooth. Only compatible with select cards, carriers and Samsung devices; see the Samsung Pay Support page <http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/app/samsung-pay#compatibility> for compatibility information.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I currently have an S5 and a Gear S2 with Samsung Pay. While my S5 is not rooted, I cannot even get Samsung Pay for my S5. However, I'm using it with my Gear S2. So, I'm not sure how things will tie together, but I'd like to know this, as well. I want to get away from AT&T ROMs and load something custom. Simultaneously, I'd like to have Samsung Pay. Based on the fact that my current phone doesn't have the app, but the watch does, I think it might work with a rooted phone. The pairing and 5 payment limit refers to the watch communicating with the Gear App (and Samsung Pay portion of that) on your phone. It does not mean Samsung Pay on your watch needs to talk to a Samsung Pay app on your phone.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/23 | 493 | 2,007 | <issue_start>username_0: Android 4.1 was jellybean. Also 4.2 and 4.3. And then, 4.4 emerged - as KitKat. After that, it bounced right up to 5.0 Lollipop!
How does this 'versioning' system work? What makes a 'new version with the same name' like 4.1 and 4.2, and what makes a 'new version with a new name' like KitKat?<issue_comment>username_1: The first digit denotes a major, milestone release. Typically this indicates new features or rewrites to filesystems, system applications, security/performance etc.
Minor releases, the digit behind the period, are patches to the major versions where things like bugfixes and security loopholes are fixed.
The [Android versioning page](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Android_version_history) on wikipedia has the full monty on the changes between each iteration.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: The names and numbers are decided by Google's marketing department. It's got nothing to do with the developers, who don't even know the name or number until shortly before it's announced: they use an internal name to talk about the release while they're working on it.
The numbers aren't real "major" and "minor" numbers like you get on most software. You'd expect minor releases to be compatible, but in fact they often introduce new features (for example, Bluetooth LE support was introduced in 4.3). Google supplies security updates on a monthly schedule, much more frequently than the marketing version changes.
Application compatibility is dealt with in an entirely different way: every time the Android API is changed, the *API level* changes. Each Android version (whether it's a new name or not; whether it's a new "major version" or not) has an API level. The Android developer site has [some information on API level numbers](https://developer.android.com/guide/topics/manifest/uses-sdk-element.html#ApiLevels) and how they relate to the marketing names/numbers. It's not intended for end-users but it's quite readable.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2016/09/23 | 245 | 964 | <issue_start>username_0: Text message notifications like WhatsApp sometimes wake me up during nighttime. Turning off my phone isn't an option since I need the alarm, and turning off notification volume (or silent mode) just sets me up for trouble since I will forget to bring it back up, missing important texts.
Is there a way to disable text messages between 10 PM and 8 AM?<issue_comment>username_1: Try [Tasker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.dinglisch.android.taskerm)
It lets you modify notifcations and alarms based on a selection of conditions - in your case, you can set the notification volume based on current time.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: In Android 5.0 and up there's a Do Not Disturb mode which you can set for a specific time frame/days of week/and select exceptions too. It is under Settings - Sound & notification (on my N6), or Settings - Sounds and vibration (on my Galaxy S7 Edge)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2016/09/23 | 444 | 1,404 | <issue_start>username_0: There is a box-chart that showed the list of android devices out in use, and the relative popularity of each.
I'm not sure if this is Google Developer provided, or by some 3rd party, but I'd like to relocate this chart of hardware popularity.
Does anyone know the chart I'm referring to?<issue_comment>username_1: Antutu, the popular benchmarking software records the make and model of each phone it benchmarks, and releases a [quarterly list of top 10 most popular smartphone](https://www.google.com.sg/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.antutu.com/en/view.shtml%3Fid%3D8254&ved=0ahUKEwjCsLrf2qbPAhVFI5QKHTWuARkQFggcMAE&usg=AFQjCNGbv9mGLglBkHpaWts5AOFjZ2xiNQ&sig2=rVOuYfFjEc0OI5UcmNQq4Q) by relative percentage.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Many third-parties do this statistical work. [Here](https://opensignal.com/reports/2015/08/android-fragmentation/)'s one I can find that's relatively new (Aug. 2015) and in English (Chinese groups do it too but I'd not bother looking for it because people here likely can't read). It's also interactive.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Here are some Android phone model charts:
[Unity mobile Android hardware stats (include Chinese manufacturers)](http://hwstats.unity3d.com/mobile/device-android.html)
[AppBrain Top Android phones](http://www.appbrain.com/stats/top-android-phones)
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/09/23 | 440 | 1,405 | <issue_start>username_0: I used TWRP to backup whole system and copy the backup to my computer. I would like to gain access to a single file. Is there a way I can do this without flashing the whole image? I'm not sure which backup it was in exactly so this could be a very lengthy process and was wondering any tips?<issue_comment>username_1: Antutu, the popular benchmarking software records the make and model of each phone it benchmarks, and releases a [quarterly list of top 10 most popular smartphone](https://www.google.com.sg/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.antutu.com/en/view.shtml%3Fid%3D8254&ved=0ahUKEwjCsLrf2qbPAhVFI5QKHTWuARkQFggcMAE&usg=AFQjCNGbv9mGLglBkHpaWts5AOFjZ2xiNQ&sig2=rVOuYfFjEc0OI5UcmNQq4Q) by relative percentage.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Many third-parties do this statistical work. [Here](https://opensignal.com/reports/2015/08/android-fragmentation/)'s one I can find that's relatively new (Aug. 2015) and in English (Chinese groups do it too but I'd not bother looking for it because people here likely can't read). It's also interactive.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Here are some Android phone model charts:
[Unity mobile Android hardware stats (include Chinese manufacturers)](http://hwstats.unity3d.com/mobile/device-android.html)
[AppBrain Top Android phones](http://www.appbrain.com/stats/top-android-phones)
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/09/24 | 160 | 615 | <issue_start>username_0: We are connecting Android Smartphone to my laptop, may see "USB Device Not Recognized" in taskbar, but data cable for smartphone is good. Please help! I am use smartphone GT-I8262 and Jelly Bean Version 4.1.2.<issue_comment>username_1: Try to install Kies as Samsung sets need PC suit to connect or if it not works then download adb installer and execute it while connecting your device
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Try change USB cable and connect to computer to make sure connection works properly. If you doesn't work well, you can buy USB cable at cellphone store.
Upvotes: -1 |
2016/09/24 | 273 | 1,000 | <issue_start>username_0: On my S6 with Android 6.0.1, one of the contacts in the default SMS app has a mute symbol (strike-through speaker) displayed next to the name. For this contact, new text messages don't trigger a notification. How do I change this? I've looked through all options in the message app and in the contact app and didn't find anything.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rI3z8.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: In the thread, click the contact name, this will take you to the "notification" setting for the contact.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VLkOO.png)
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Had the same problem. Took me a bit to figure it out.
Go to messages, tap on the thread for that contact, tap on their name in the top left corner, this will take you to conversation settings, turn notifications on.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/09/24 | 786 | 3,039 | <issue_start>username_0: Can I flash a modem file of a phone to another model? If we can't flash the modem file can you tell me what hardware or software the modem file depend so that it is different for different phone?
You might be wondering why I want to flash modem file even if everything is working fine is that I got volte by using this [method](http://forums.yuplaygod.com/threads/how-to-get-volte-in-yuphoria-yu5010-yu5010a.42275/).
As login is required to view the link I will explain how I got volte. I download the firmware of yuphoria 5010a which is mostly similar to my phone's specifications. And also downloaded the stock rom of yuphoria 5010a. After that I flashed firmware, rom on my phone using fastboot. I then updated the volte patch which the phone manufacturer released for that phone and installed it and I got volte working on my device.
But the only downside was that I am only able to use volte with 32 bit rom not the 64 bit rom.
Also can you tell me how to clone or backup my entire device (including the critical file such as modem, boot,etc) so that while I would be doing lot of fiddling I can restore my device to its current state without losing anything including the volte which I obtained by flashing the modem file?
My Device : Yu Yuphoria
(5010)
ROM : MIUI 8.1(android 5.1)<issue_comment>username_1: **No, you can't** flash firmware designed to work with one android device to another one.
There are some bizzare situations where this does work because devices have identical hardware (Coolpad F1 and Micromax A310), but this is very unlikely to happen and you shouldn't try it.
As for a device backup, you can make a nandroid backup using CWM or TWRP and copy it to your computer.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: >
> If we can't flash the modem file can you tell me what hardware or software the modem file depend so that it is different for different phone?
>
>
>
**Modem** itself is hardware, so which modem file (firmware) is to be used depends on modem. Usually it's embedded with SoC - the central chip which contains CPU, RAM and other critical components. So if two phones have same modem, there are chances the same firmware works for both. Most of the times same modem means same SoC - it's [Snapdragon 410](https://www.qualcomm.com/products/snapdragon-processors-410) on your device.
Modem has its own processor called baseband (BP), totally isolated from Android OS which runs on Application Processor (AP) - the one we usually call CPU. In userspace telephony stack (Java) talks to RILD (native vendor specific binary blob) which depends on Linux kernel for communication with modem. Kernel has special implementation from OEM/SoC vendor to create communication channel between AP and BP.
Additionally the firmware may also contain software related to other components interacting with BP like Digital Signal Processor (DSP), SIM card and SIM reader etc. So all of the relevant details must be exactly identical on both phones for same firmware to work.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/25 | 243 | 890 | <issue_start>username_0: I have acquired an Jio sim and I am using a Redmi 3s prime. But I don’t know which one is the primary 4G sim slot in the phone. Is it the nano one or the micro one? Or can i choose any one of them? Please help. Thanks<issue_comment>username_1: The **Redmi 3S Prime** uses a **hybrid SIM slot** which means it accepts *one Micro-SIM* and *another Nano-SIM or microSD card for storage*.
Unfortunately, this means that users will have to choose between a second SIM and a microSD card.
***Coming to your question*** : Use any slot for 4G. It is recommended from my side, use the micro-sim slot for the primary sim.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The Redmi 3S Prime supports hybrid dual-SIM (Micro-SIM + Nano-SIM) slot with the second SIM slot also capable of functioning as a microSD slot. However either slot can be used for 4G.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/25 | 915 | 2,966 | <issue_start>username_0: I just flashed a new firmware and when the phone starts, it shows the android logo and restarts. It's stuck in a boot loop. How can I fix this?<issue_comment>username_1: Factory reset solves this issue most of the times. Use hard ware keys to get in reset menu and factory reset your phone.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: This is a very common issue. You can **solve** it **by wiping out** the system of device.
***Steps for wiping:***
**1.** Use the Volume keys in order to navigate through the recovery menu.
**2.** Select “advanced” and choose “wipe dalvik cache”.
**3.** Return to main menu.
**4.** Then select “wipe data factory reset”.
**5.** Return and this time choose “wipe cache partition”.
**6.** Return and select “reboot system now”.
**7.** Your handset should start in Android OS now.
This will hopefully, solve your problem. **It worked me** as well.
**In case you can't boot into recovery**, you can physically hard reset by following this [Link](http://sony-xperia.mobi/eng/sony-xperia-z2/231-how-to-do-a-hard-reset-and-reboot-a-sony-xperia-z2-physical-hard-reset-button-sony-xperia-z2.html)
**For advanced solution**, you can follow this [Link](http://xda-university.com/as-a-user/how-to-recover-from-a-bootloop)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: The following steps are pretty much guaranteed to unf\*\*k up your phone no matter how badly messed up it is. I speak from experience.
1. Turn off phone by pressing [hard reset button](http://sony-xperia.mobi/eng/sony-xperia-z2/231-how-to-do-a-hard-reset-and-reboot-a-sony-xperia-z2-physical-hard-reset-button-sony-xperia-z2.html).
2. Use flashtools to flash a stock ROM. Download the ftf file from here (I recommend downloading 4.4.2 as its easiest to root and you likely will be flashing something else anyway).
3. Root your device using any method.
4. Install custom recovery using app such as TWRP manager or Flashify.
5. Check if you can install custom recovery **and boot into it.**
6. If yes, use it to flash ROM of your choice and you are done. If no, proceed to step 6.
7. Follow these instruction if you can't enter recovery.
N.B. Here is the missing [download link](https://mega.nz/#!NoVSlK5T!CPJDueW8nXiHEv-jjqo7U-CrrEa1nE2JTE8mWjn3NEs) for fix recovery.zip. Also the directions forget to mention after typing `su root` a message will have popped up on your phone you must allow.
<http://forum.xda-developers.com/xperia-z2/general/mm-6-0-1-twrp-recovery-t3364871>
8. You now have TWRP working. Use it to flash latest ROM.
Additional tips:
1. enable allow installations from unknown sources
2. enable usb debugging
3. charge phone to 100% before beginning
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: It's possible you could have a corrupt image. Make sure you get an MD5 or similar for your image. Make sure if you are flashing a new rom that you are wiping Data, Cache, Dalvik-Cache, and System manually before flashing a new ROM.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/25 | 1,178 | 5,387 | <issue_start>username_0: Some android apps are can remember whether they were installed on the same device earlier. Suppose you uninstalled an app a year ago. After one year if you install that same app again, that app will be able to recognize that it was installed before on the same phone.
This technique is used by online applications to permanently ban users from ever creating a new account again if they have been banned from using the service once. When such users create a new account by reinstalling the application later, these apps are able to detect their "first time presence" and send this information to servers so that user can be banned again.
How they do it even after clearing their data and uninstalling them completely? It means they keep some file somewhere in the phone, which is not deleted after uninstall. How do I disable this detection?<issue_comment>username_1: There are multiple ways to identify a unique device or its user:
1. **Keep a file in some (non-default) directory**: You already said this; apps can often write to the internal storage of a device. This method is easy, works offline and is not the easiest to spot (place the file in some *system-like* directory and nobody will bother deleting it).
2. **Keep track of a devices unique `ANDROID_ID` (unique per fresh installation)**: this method is simple but requires internet access, at least on the first use. It's not very intrusive and does not persist in case of a factory reset. It's also unique per user. [See this information](https://developer.android.com/reference/android/provider/Settings.Secure.html#ANDROID_ID).
3. **IMEI**: Very intrusive, unchangeable but requires a SIM-capable device. The IMEI is unique for each device, cannot be changed and doesn't follow the user, meaning that if you sell your device, the new owner will be greeted with a screen telling him that the app was already on the phone.
4. **Follow a user's Google account**: This is pretty much the same as the `ANDROID_ID` approach but requires explicit permission (Android 6.0+) from the user to access. Apps that take advantage of the Google account ecosystem (e.g. highscores and achievements in games) can thus follow a specific user and gain more information than just whether the app has been installed or not.
2, 3 and 4 require a network connection and a server on the side of the developer.
Upvotes: 6 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: It is not connected to storage, but to the cloud. That is how it remembers even though you deleted your data. In order to switch this off, go to your device's settings app, tap accounts google under personal (tap account you want if you have multiple accounts), then switch off the apps you don't want to auto-sync.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: There is a SharedPreferences class - <https://developer.android.com/reference/android/content/SharedPreferences.html> - that some apps use to store preference data. This data is not deleted when the app is uninstalled. If the app is later reinstalled, any previously saved SharedPreferences keys are still available to it.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: username_1's answer covers it best, but there is another point to think about. It would clearly be a "**dark pattern**" but this identification could also be done through *fingerprinting* certain user data - this can be viewed as a variant on his first point ("keep a file") but it would be harder to detect and less convenient to avoid.
How resilient this is would depend on the data chosen. The most obvious method would be looking at contact details and using some form of fingerprint of this; an alternative might be use of photo timestamps and other metadata. Clearly these change over time so whatever method was used would need to still give a close answer after modification (so it differs from a traditional hash function). Also there is no guarantee that a user doesn't simply wipe the tracked data, but in many cases people will prefer not to do this.
You may wish to look at browser fingerprinting to get a sense of how this works, even though it is going to be somewhat different because phone hardware is typically more uniform than PC hardware. That said, the addition of certain phone details *may* help narrow the fingerprint down a bit.
Where this approach breaks down in particular is if a user switches phones and takes their details with them to a new phone - in this case (unless phone details are going into the fingerprint) the new phone might be detected as already having had an installation, as the question asked. However it seems quite likely that in a scenario where an app is trying to ban a user, this might actually be a desired outcome (rather than banning the specific phone itself)
**Please note:** In no way am I saying this is correct or "good" as a way to operate if you're writing apps, but it seems reasonable to discuss it as it is only through discussion that people will figure out whether they're concerned enough to do something about it and what that might be.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: There's another possibility - use of **persistent cookies** with a very large "time to expire". i guess that's how multiple apps from same developer used to share credentials traditionally, when stored credentials via the accounts feature was not so open/known to the public.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/09/25 | 533 | 2,297 | <issue_start>username_0: What is the difference between the Google Play store and the Amazon app store?<issue_comment>username_1: Basically Google Play is your 'default' app store, and Amazon is just a 3rd party store. Google Play can install apps automatically, and gets the benefits of Google Play Services while Amazon can't - But Amazon has the famous 'free app of the day'(Amazon Underground) - So... My opinion is to just keep both :D
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Actually, the Amazon App store is NOT a third-party app store. It comes as a system app for tablets. The most common devices that the Amazon App store is installed as the main app store is the Kindle Fire devices. Either one can be a FIRST party app store but with phones, it is usually the play store.
I recommend you use the Google Play Store because there are way more apps than the Amazon App store.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: If you are targeting Kindle Fire tablets and the Kindle phones, you should release your app through Amazon app store because it is the default app store on those devices and will give you exposure when users search apps. If you are only targeting Android devices, Amazon app store is not a must-do. It is just another distribution channel. It has some promotional features that you may want to take advantage of such as the Free app of the day/week etc. Some white label Android tablets also uses Amazon app store as their default app store.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: Google Play Store is the official app distribution method on Android devices with Google ecosystem. It is not provided for installation on devices that did not come with it pre-installed. This app store is restricted to authorized partners that have passed Google's [GMS certification](http://www.hatchmfg.com/what-are-the-gms-license-and-certification-for-android-devices/).
Amazon Appstore is the official app distribution method on Amazon's own devices such as Fire tablets and Fire TV. This app store is also provided by Amazon [for free](https://www.amazon.com/gp/mas/get/android/ref=get_appstore) so that it can be installed and used on other non-Amazon devices running Android.
Both these app stores allow you to install and apps, and keep them up-to-date.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/09/26 | 625 | 2,296 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a ZTE Blade A1 with pre-installed malware. I'm only able to identify and remove some of it. So, I want to delete everything on the phone and install a custom ROM. Unfortunately, I cannot find any ROMs which explicitly support the ZTE Blade A1.
I've decided to try putting CyanogenMod on the device (or possibly something else), as it *does* support older versions of the ZTE Blade. My plan is as follows:
1. Create a backup of the existing ROM using ROM Manager
2. Run the device in recovery mode (using the default Android system recovery - CWM or TWRP do not explicitly support the Blade A1, so I won't risk using them)
3. Use the fastboot commands `fastboot -w` and `fastboot update rom.zip` to install the custom ROM
4. Restart the phone, and if it has stopped working, repeat steps 2 - 3 using the backed-up ROM from step 1
I've read up on using custom ROMs, but have found a lot of conflicting information. So, my question is: *Will this replace the pre-installed OS with a custom ROM? Is there a risk the phone won't be restored to its original state?*
**Update:** I haven't been able to confirm whether the phone can be irreversibly bricked by installing a custom ROM. However, if anyone comes across this question wanting to remove malware from the ZTE Blade A1, I have posted a solution [here](http://benlambell.blogspot.com.au/2016/10/how-to-remove-zte-blade-a1-bloatware.html).<issue_comment>username_1: I had exactly the same problem with my ZTE blade A1. Although I was able to find a stock ROM that suited the phone and contained no adware(or at least less aggresive).
I'd say you give it a try.
This is the link(I downloaded the first option):
<http://chinagadgetsreviews.blogspot.it/2016/05/download-latest-android-lollipop-51_77.html>
I must say that I wasn't sure about installing it since I didn't know the source, although i had no other option. My phone was already bricked :S.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: To answer your question installing a new custom rom will erase the phone and yes their is a custom rom available and working here is the link Downloaded this rom <http://forum.flymeos.com/thread-6638-1-1.html> to root of sd card.I installed and works great any question on installing just ask
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2016/09/26 | 652 | 2,383 | <issue_start>username_0: I know google photos is giving unlimited storage (for 16MP photos and 1020p videos). I have uploaded around 5000 photos and videos, but I cannot find the storage I have used.<issue_comment>username_1: It is available in google drive as well as from within the photos app.
**Photos App**
1. Open photos app.
2. From the side menu, tap on settings
3. Tap on Back up & sync
4. Here you'll find backup account details with the storage analytics.
---
**Google Drive**
1. Visit [drive.google.com](http://drive.google.com)
2. Click on the gear symbol at the top right. That's the settings
3. Under settings you'll find storage which should give you a fair
estimate on how much storage space you've used and how much is
remaining
If you need a breakdown of which google app is using how much storage,
1. Visit [drive.google.com](http://drive.google.com)
2. To the bottom left you'll have a notificiation that says - x GB / Y
GB used.
3. Click on it and it gives you a breakdown where in you should be able
to see how much data google photos is taking up.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Check here:
<https://drive.google.com/settings/storage>
There under "Total storage" you can see your used storage, and below when you click on "View details" you can see the details:
```
Storage details
XX.XX GB used
Drive X GB
Gmail X GB
Google Photos X GB
```
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: How to find storage requirements of your free Google Photos:
1. got to <https://takeout.google.com/>
2. pick only Photos for download
3. select parameters of the archive
4. wait for the process to finish (you will also get email)
You will then see the size of the archive(s) before downloading. As a bonus, you have now complete backup of your Google Photos.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: Firstly update photos app on playstore then,
Go to google photos app - - click on profile icon - - click on account storage option - - click on upload size - - there on the top you will xx storage out of 15gb used!!
Best luck!!
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: In Dec 2022, you can now visit:
-------------------------------
<https://photos.google.com/quotamanagement/large> ("Only photos & videos that count towards your Google Account storage will appear here")
and
<https://photos.google.com/unsupportedvideos>
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/26 | 1,029 | 3,796 | <issue_start>username_0: I tether my internet with my phone.
I connect with my laptop to it.
If I keep my VPN client (NordVPN) activet, internet does not work.
NordVPN support says to configure VPN in Settings > VPN.
However, I want to use many VPN servers so manually setting each there is not possible.
NordVPN frontend has a nice map where you can choose which VPN server to use.
Internet works with VPN in my phone but not in my laptop when it is using the tethered source.
**Differential condition**: NordVPN Android application does not keep VPN active all the time
* complication: Client laptop cannot get internet in USB tethering when VPN is active in the phone
I forwarded this thread (26.9.2016, 3.10.2016 and 4.10.2016) to the NordVPN support and stated a deep wish to get a manual about using NordVPN internet from phone with your Debian laptop.
Feel free to ask me more details about the test configuration if needed.
Questions of the tech support
1. *Does [Android NordVPN] disconnect when you are browsing or not launching at all?* It disconnects itself when browsing internet.
2. *Can you give more information about our application not keeping connection at all time. How often you are getting disconnect and on what event it disconnects ( i.e. when you lock your phone or when it fall in sleep for not using it).* It occurs daily. It occurs when I lock my phone.
Phone: Oneplus 2
Phone OS: 3.1 OxygenOS
Laptop: Asus Zenbook UX303UA
Laptop OS: Debian 8.5 64 bit
Laptop Linux kernel: 4.6 of backports
VPN client in Android: NordVPN (tried many locations)<issue_comment>username_1: How to Tether NordVPN internet from Android to Laptop?
------------------------------------------------------
Answer from NordVPN support of ID #555274
>
> Unfortunately, when you are using VPN your device automatically becomes unreachable to any other devices due to safety so sadly you won't be able to use usb tether while VPN is active.
>
>
>
I asked further why this is going to be changed in NordVPN.
Why it cannot be guaranteed at the moment?
>
> Unfortunately, it's technically impossible to make a device to be
> reachable when it uses VPN. Maybe someday someone will find how to
> make unreachable device to become reachable when VPN is active but for
> know there is no solution.
>
>
>
I think this is not right because you can create a virtual machine which handles the ports for you.
Please, see
* My Apple threads but applicable in Linux [How to Mimic Location of Slave VPN for Primary VPN?](https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/239363/15504) since you cannot split the tunneling as observed in the thread [How to Do Split Tunnelling with Slave ppp0 VPN + 2nd VPN?](https://unix.stackexchange.com/a/286220/16920)
**Differential solution**:
Same security policy is used with `openvpn` terminal application in Debian OS.
So it can be easier to test it first there and understand the situation better.
Differential condition: NordVPN Android application does not keep VPN active all the time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> When you lock your phone the internet might disconnect for few seconds
> because of battery save feature on phone. However it should reconnect
> when you unlock your phone.
>
>
>
I think the battery save explanation is sound here.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you are rooted you can use tethernet, hot-spot on the vpn then tethernet then connect to pc/laptop, you can't do Android to Android tho. it's worked on HTC m8, m9, 10, u11, u11+ & u12+ . I would look on xda if you are not rooted. <https://forum.xda-developers.com/oneplus-2/general/guides-how-to-guides-beginners-t3146568>
Hope this helps
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/26 | 559 | 2,100 | <issue_start>username_0: My question might sound stupid, but I want to backup my contacts, so even when I lost the phone or deleted the contacts, or factory reset the phone, I can still have the contacts. I never backup contacts before, so pls offer a detailed guide, thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: 1. open dialer/contacts
2.choose import/export by clicking on top right corner
3.click Export to .vcf file
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Use google contacts sync. to backup online, so your contacts will be safe there.
Read more at
<https://www.google.com/sync/index.html>
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I recommend one of these two free Android apps, both of which I find easy to use:
1. [Red Rock Backup Contacts](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=no.uia.android.backupcontacts), which exports to Google CSV, Outlook
CSV, or a custom CSV, and has no builtin restore (You can easily
restore using [Google Contacts](https://www.google.com/contacts/)).
2. [OBSS MCBackup](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.globile.mycontactbackup) exports to [vCard](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vcard)
(one file per contact) and does have builtin restore.
Both of these apps export files that can be imported into most contact managers (not just Android ones).
You'll want to export the files created by these apps somewhere off your phone. For that, you have two options:
1. Use either of these apps to email the exported contacts to yourself.
2. Use a USB cord to get the contacts on your computer. Steps:
1. Use one of the above apps to export the contacts onto your phone's SD card.
2. Restart the phone to deal with [a bug](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/46321) in Android.
3. Plug your phone into a computer with a USB cable.
4. Open your phone's storage in your file manager (eg. Windows Explorer or Finder)
5. Copy the backup files to your computer. For OBSS MCBackup, you want the folder com.vcast.mediamanager/contacts. For Red Rock Backup Contacts, the file you want is called Backup.Contacts.\*.csv by default.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/26 | 395 | 1,621 | <issue_start>username_0: Unlocking a phone with okay google is useful. However, how can I lock it again using okay google. It's very handy being able to talk to my phone whilst working on the laptop but in the interests of battery power locking it again would help. Particularly if I'm using bluetooth and the phone is in my pocket. Time out is set to 15 seconds but a lot can happen in 15 seconds.<issue_comment>username_1: Unfortunately there's no command for this. Google needs to see the use for this and add it obviously
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: As it stands the Google Assistant which is activated by the OK Google command does not give you the functionality to lock your phone, if you ask it, the Google Assistant will tell you as much.
However there are ways round this, there is an article from [MakeUseOf](https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/lock-unlock-android-phone-voice-google-assistant/)
which details how to do this, it does require the installation of an app and pairing it up with a custom command that you set in the Google Assistant.
My personal set up for screen locking is to lock immediately.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: If you want a native (i.e., officially from Google) solution, you can install and use the [Voice Access](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.accessibility.voiceaccess) feature, which can also be turned on via Okay Google. Note that Voice Access allows much more interactions where Okay Google does not (permissively speaking).
While Voice Access is active, saying "lock (the) screen/phone" will lock the phone.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/09/26 | 276 | 1,048 | <issue_start>username_0: In Google Keep, is it possible to convert a normal list into a checkbox list? Equivalently, is it possible to unhide check boxes?<issue_comment>username_1: I couldn't find a way to do this on the Android app, but you can go to <https://keep.google.com/> for the web version, click on the note, click on the 3 dots and click "show checkboxes". When the Android app syncs, it will also have the checkboxes.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: To add checkboxes: open the note, click on the + symbol at the bottom left corner and click "Checkboxes""
To remove checkboxes: open the note, click on the 3 vertical dots on the top right corner and click "Hide Checkboxes"
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Just open the note and click on little + under the list on the left side and then select *Checkboxes*.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Yes you can do it in android phone...!
1. Select the desire text
2. Cut it
3. Activate the checkbox back again
4. Paste the text
The easy way...!
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/27 | 274 | 1,050 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to know if its possible to divert calls from my current phone to a different phone using different numbers.Anybody got help?<issue_comment>username_1: I couldn't find a way to do this on the Android app, but you can go to <https://keep.google.com/> for the web version, click on the note, click on the 3 dots and click "show checkboxes". When the Android app syncs, it will also have the checkboxes.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: To add checkboxes: open the note, click on the + symbol at the bottom left corner and click "Checkboxes""
To remove checkboxes: open the note, click on the 3 vertical dots on the top right corner and click "Hide Checkboxes"
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Just open the note and click on little + under the list on the left side and then select *Checkboxes*.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Yes you can do it in android phone...!
1. Select the desire text
2. Cut it
3. Activate the checkbox back again
4. Paste the text
The easy way...!
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/28 | 406 | 1,439 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Note4 which was shipped from the UAE (but I don't live in UAE). The current version of the device is 6.0.1 and I want to downgrade it to 4.4.4 (the stock version). I am having some trouble selecting the right firmware and was hoping if someone could help.
I came across this: <http://www.sammobile.com/firmwares/database/SM-N910C/XSG/> but I don't know which version to choose. My phone's baseband version (N910CXXU1DPC1) is not listed here.
Can I choose any 4.4.4 version and hope it will work on my phone ?<issue_comment>username_1: I couldn't find a way to do this on the Android app, but you can go to <https://keep.google.com/> for the web version, click on the note, click on the 3 dots and click "show checkboxes". When the Android app syncs, it will also have the checkboxes.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: To add checkboxes: open the note, click on the + symbol at the bottom left corner and click "Checkboxes""
To remove checkboxes: open the note, click on the 3 vertical dots on the top right corner and click "Hide Checkboxes"
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Just open the note and click on little + under the list on the left side and then select *Checkboxes*.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Yes you can do it in android phone...!
1. Select the desire text
2. Cut it
3. Activate the checkbox back again
4. Paste the text
The easy way...!
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/29 | 581 | 2,203 | <issue_start>username_0: Does anyone know, or know how to determine, the dimensions of the Samsung Galaxy S7 screen in points?
The reason I ask is because I'm trying to test the responsiveness of a website on the Samsung Galaxy S7, by using Chrome's built-in responsiveness checker. It has preset settings to test different devices, but the Samsung Galaxy S7 is not one of them. The tool *does* allow me to enter a custom screen dimension (see attached image). Unfortunately I can't figure out what dimensions to enter for the Samsung Galaxy S7--it's not asking for the resolution and it's not asking for the physical dimensions in inches/centimeters. The displayed dimensions for each device seem to correlate to the device's dimensions in points, (see [this page](https://www.paintcodeapp.com/news/ultimate-guide-to-iphone-resolutions) for my rationale). I may be misinterpreting something though.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GbldE.png)<issue_comment>username_1: After some more research, I found my answer: 360 x 640, which are the same dimensions as the Galaxy S6, which are the same dimensions as the few preceding Galaxy S models.
But I still don't know what these dimensions are called. I found three different websites, each giving them a different term:
* [design.google.com](https://design.google.com/devices/): "width x height in dp"
* mydevice.io/devices: "CSS width and CSS height"
* viewportsizes.com: "viewport size"
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The metric 360 x 640 is in dp (device-independent pixels) and it is the dimension of the viewport at a 1x base size. This is not the same as the resolution, or physical pixel size. This is because the S7 has an XXXHDPI density factor of 4x, which means every graphic must be scaled x4 when exporting assets for this device. The resolution in actual pixels is 1440 × 2560, but one pixel on this device = 4px on a MDPI (medium-density) device, such as the Samsung Galaxy Ace (which has a viewport size of 360 x 640 dp AND a resolution of 360 x 640px).
See Google Material.io -- it lists the device metrics for many Android devices.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/09/29 | 208 | 697 | <issue_start>username_0: My Huawei P9 lite vibrates when it goes to sleep after a short period of inactivity. How can I turn off the vibration?<issue_comment>username_1: **How To Turn Off Huawei P9 Vibration:**
1. Go to Settings
2. Select on Sound
3. Select Vibration Intensity
**Otherwise I think your device is infected with a virus**
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Try using the [Do Not Disturb](https://www.google.com.sg/amp/www.greenbot.com/article/2995581/android/take-control-of-notifications-with-android-marshmallows-do-not-disturb-feature.amp.html) or silent hour mode of Android.
You will be able to set the window in which the phone will vibrate.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2016/09/29 | 197 | 823 | <issue_start>username_0: I have added my gmail account in my lenovo vibe p1 option m mobile phone but I am not getting any option to remove the account from the mobile. I searched in settings->Accounts but no such option is given. Please help<issue_comment>username_1: Go to Settings - Accounts - Google, this should put on a menu with your account at the top and all the sync options under it. Tap the 3-dot overflow menu in the upper right corner and select Remove Account.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Go to setting > google > tap the account u want to remove > then tap the recent page button (square shape ) 3 times then remove option will be shown !
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: to see the REMOVE ACCOUNT option, you need to long press the menu button on the phone. it will do the trick.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/29 | 272 | 1,172 | <issue_start>username_0: I checked my phone after class and I noticed that a new app was installed. I keep automatic updates off at all times so I have no idea how this application came to be on my phone. It is called rooms and has the android logo as its thumbnail. I have uninstalled the application numerous times and it just automatically installs again each time. I have tried researching the application and I've come up with nothing. When I click on the app, it tells me to insert my device into my Gear VR. So my question has two parts: First, is this a legitimate application that others have heard of? And second, is there a way I can remove it? Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: I found this advice on another chatroom:
Disabling "Facebook app installer" and "Facebook app manager" in app manager made this unwanted garbage stop harassing my precious S7.
it helped me.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you have root you can uninstall this apps by type in the terminal *pm list packages* and use grep to filter so like that *pm list packages | grep -i facebook* you can uninstall it by typing *pm uninstall [package name]*
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/29 | 507 | 1,809 | <issue_start>username_0: I hope this isn't as niche as it looks. In Android 6 apparently there's no way to disable mobile data using Tasker alone. So, I'm trying to disable mobile data via Secure Settings, using the "mobile data" setting. It gives out an error when the task runs. I have given both Tasker and Secure Settings pretty much all permissions I could find in settings. Still no go. Ideas?<issue_comment>username_1: Unfortunately, Secure Settings doesn't work well on Android Marshmallow due to lack of platform compatible updates. That been said, you can toggle mobile data using command-line approach in Tasker.
Action: Code → Run Shell:
* *Command*: `svc data disable`
Replace `disable` with `enable` to enable mobile data.
* tick *Use Root*.
Tasker community at Reddit has compiled a useful list of all the Secure Settings actions' command-line alternatives. You can find the list [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/tasker/comments/4goz99/how_to_replace_some_secure_settings_actions_with/?ref=share&ref_source=link).
An alternative to command-line based approach is to use an another automation app in parallel or with Tasker, such as [MacroDroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.arlosoft.macrodroid) and [Automate](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.llamalab.automate). Both the apps can toggle mobile data, given root access is granted to them.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I use [Toggle Data 5.0](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cygery.toggledata&hl=en) on CM13 (third party distribution for the Samsung S4, [ResurrectionRemix](http://www.resurrectionremix.com/)). [XDA Developers link](http://forum.xda-developers.com/android/apps-games/app-toggle-data-5-0-widget-to-toggle-t2937936). It works well.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/30 | 656 | 2,133 | <issue_start>username_0: I would like to by Tecno W3 smart phone (Android 6.0 Marshmallow).
I googled to know its GPU. Some websites said it's **Mali-400 GPU** such as:
1. <http://bestmobs.com/tecno-w3/>
2. <http://naijaquest.com/tecno-w3-specs-features-reviews-and-price-official/>
And other websites said it's **Mali-400MP2 GPU** such as:
1. <http://www.androidphonesinnigeria.com/tecno-w3-full-specifications-features-price/>
2. <http://www.droidafrica.com/tecno-w3-brings-android-60/>
The official website of the phone does not give any information about the GPU nor the part number of the CPU IC.
How can I know the real GPU when I test the phone at the shop? Is there an android test code? Thank you very much,<issue_comment>username_1: Unfortunately, Secure Settings doesn't work well on Android Marshmallow due to lack of platform compatible updates. That been said, you can toggle mobile data using command-line approach in Tasker.
Action: Code → Run Shell:
* *Command*: `svc data disable`
Replace `disable` with `enable` to enable mobile data.
* tick *Use Root*.
Tasker community at Reddit has compiled a useful list of all the Secure Settings actions' command-line alternatives. You can find the list [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/tasker/comments/4goz99/how_to_replace_some_secure_settings_actions_with/?ref=share&ref_source=link).
An alternative to command-line based approach is to use an another automation app in parallel or with Tasker, such as [MacroDroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.arlosoft.macrodroid) and [Automate](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.llamalab.automate). Both the apps can toggle mobile data, given root access is granted to them.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I use [Toggle Data 5.0](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cygery.toggledata&hl=en) on CM13 (third party distribution for the Samsung S4, [ResurrectionRemix](http://www.resurrectionremix.com/)). [XDA Developers link](http://forum.xda-developers.com/android/apps-games/app-toggle-data-5-0-widget-to-toggle-t2937936). It works well.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/30 | 325 | 1,255 | <issue_start>username_0: One day my Samsung stopped charging, as to my battery was swelling up. The following day I bought a new battery and it is still giving me the same problem. It does not charge or show any sign that it is working. Does anyone know a solution? I've tried many that I've viewed on youtube, but still doesn't work.<issue_comment>username_1: 1. Battery swelling up is an indication of battery in terminal stages . It's good that you decided to replace with a new battery
2. If the new battery is not charging, possible reasons:
a) It could be a rip off battery
b) battery charging is prevented by a transparent plastic foil on the terminals which is preventing contact. Examine carefully and peel it off . See this for a similar issue with S3 batteries
[Phone only works with busted battery](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/150460/131553)
C) there is a genuine problem with hardware
First eliminate b) then check for a) by borrowing a battery and if both are ruled out, your problem is C) for which only service center can fix
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Your USB port maybe damaged. It's very cheap and easy to replace. I did on mine after the phone had trouble charging, and it worked great afterwards.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/09/30 | 559 | 2,242 | <issue_start>username_0: I am a bit confused by my Android TV:
* There is an app called Mirroring. When I start it, it asks me to use a thing called Miracast.
* On my phone (Huawei) there is an app called MirrorShare. It was the only mirroring-related app, so I decided to try it.
* After starting it, with my surprise, my TV got displayed as a compatible device. I connected to it and it seemed to work: my phone's screen (with **A LOT** of delay) got mirrored on my TV.
* In the TV settings there is also an entry called "Google Cast". So why is it now Google Cast and not "Miracast" or whatever it's called?
* I searched for Google Cast on Play Store and I found the official app by Google.
* I installed it. Even this time, the TV got detected, but when I tried connecting, I noticed the delay of the screen was **A LOT LESS**, for example, Asphalt 8 was pretty playable.
* I searched on the Internet for all these terms, and another word I saw everywhere was "Chromecast".
What is the difference between these technologies? Are some of these different ways to call the same thing? Wasn't Chromecast that little item you stick behind your non-smart TV to see Netflix or YouTube on it?<issue_comment>username_1: Google Cast and Miracast are 2 different technologies and protocols.
Miracast primarily allows wireless screen mirroring, and support is usually built-in in the OS in modern Android devices and Windows 8.1+.
Google Cast additionally allows transferring external multimedia stream to the remote screen without decoding it on the mobile device, but support for this depends on the application.
Miracast is often branded with proprietary label, most probably, in your case MirrorShare is Miracast.
Chromecast may refer to either the Google Cast protocol or a dongle which allows to use Google Cast on the TV without built-in support.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you play a movie in your phone and use Miracast, the TV will get sound and image as if you plug in a HDMI cable on it, but your phone have to play the movie as well. But if you choose Chromecast, you can lock your phone but still having the movie played in the TV.
Miracast can work without Wi-Fi, but Chromecast can't.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/01 | 680 | 2,553 | <issue_start>username_0: Can I use Jio SIM in the second slot of my Redmi 3s Prime phone? The second SIM slot is a nano type SIM slot. Please clear my doubt as soon as you can.<issue_comment>username_1: Not all dual SIM phones have 4G + 4G support.
It is mostly 4G + 2G(or sometimes 3G).
It is not predetermined which SIM slot will be able to use the 4G bands and which won't.
Usually when a dual SIM phone is booted for the first time with two SIM cards, on the setup screen it asks the user to select which SIM card would be used for mobile data. Whichever is selected becomes the primary data SIM slot and is subsequently used for 4G LTE or 3G whichever the phone supports. The second slot in most phones either cannot use data or even if it does, cannot use the 4G or 3G bands- whichever the phone supports and the first SIM slot can use.
In case of hybrid dual SIM phones with single SIM does not arise as there is only one SIM card in use, and the device will automatically use whichever SIM slot is occupied as it's primary data SIM and will switch to 4G if available.
There is no official confirmation of Redmi 3S Prime being a 4G + 4G phone. Seeing how it is a budget phone, it is most likely 4G + 3G/2G.
If you are booting the device for the first time after inserting both the SIM cards (doesn't matter if Jio SIM is in second SIM slot, you can select the Jio SIM when prompted to select which SIM you want to use for data and it'll work.
If you inserted the Jio SIM in the second slot after having already booted the device, it probably won't work. What you have to do in this case is reset the phone, and when you see the setup screen, select the slot in which you have put the Jio SIM, and you'll be good to go.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Jio4GVoice app automatically reads the first SIM slot.So put the Jio Sim in the first slot if you are using an LTE device. If you are using a voLTE device, you can use either of the SIM slots.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I have seen in some internet videos that jio works in second sim slot of redmi 3s after changing certain network and access point settings. But in some videos,internet is working but calling is not possible. When i tried on my own redmi 3s, I too could not get a volte sign and so could not make a call. However,we can install jio4gvoice app and call using that app without any problem.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Yes, you can use on sim slot 2, only if it supports 4G too. I am now using in my second slot in my Galaxy E5 4G mobile.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/01 | 370 | 1,521 | <issue_start>username_0: I just recently updated to marshmallow on my Oneplus X, ever since I did that I've been getting notification that "Unfortunately, Google Play Services has stopped." I've done tons of research and tried many things like clearing the cache, force stopping it, uninstalling updates, rebooting my phone, messing with the wifi. Even after all of that it won't go away. The message is popping up every 2-3 seconds and is really making it hard for me to do anything. Is there anything else I can do or should I get help??<issue_comment>username_1: You do not need to 'disable' the entire Google+ app. Your Play Services can stop working due to several other reasons.
First - Install the latest [Google Play Services .apk file!](https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/google-play-services/)
Second - If installing that doesn't fix, clear the Google Play Services cache. The Google Play Services app in your phone acts like a framework for all the Google and Google Play apps installed in your phone. You can try cleaning up its cache and see if that would fix the issue. This worked with one of our team members! Read these quick and easy steps :
1. Go to Settings > Apps.
2. Scroll to All apps and then scroll down to "Google Play Services"
app.
3. Open the app details and tap on the "Force stop" button.
4. Then, tap on the "Clear cache" button.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I was facing this same issue. Its resolved now.
Just uninstall google + and reboot.
It will work.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/01 | 947 | 3,850 | <issue_start>username_0: Somehow my default keyboard got changed. I used to be able to go to Settings -> Language and Input and then there was something that would let me change the keyboard. Now under "Keyboard and input methods" I only see "Virtual keyboard" and "Physical Keyboard". When I select the former it lists all the keyboards I have installed and enabled, but doesn't show me which one is the selected keyboard. If I tap any of the keyboards it takes me to the settings for that keyboard, which doesn't provide me with any way to make that keyboard the default. Long pressing does the same thing. There is nothing helpful under the menus. If I tap on "Manage keyboards" it shows me all the keyboards installed, and a mini-slider showing if each is enabled or not and allowing me to change. But again, nothing to set the default!
How do I change the default keyboard in Android N?
Update: Apparently Google doesn't even know how to do this - I contacted chat support and the agent wasn't able to help me!<issue_comment>username_1: It appears that some keyboards offer something under their keyboards (e.g. a special key) to switch keyboards. However others, such as the Google Keyboard do not.
However, what I have discovered is that whenever the on-screen keyboard is up, no matter which keyboard it is, there is a new virtual button at the bottom right of the screen with the icon of a keyboard. When I tap this icon a dialog box pops up to change the keyboard.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rmtKx.png)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I just figured out how to do the same thing on the Google keyboard while searching for the same thing. Hold down the little globe icon to the left of the Spacebar and it will list all available keyboards.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KGfo4.png)
Click to enlarge
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Press and hold spacebar. A pop up will appear after that where you can choose your default keyboard.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: TL,DR: try reinstalling your keyboard app
If you're like me and none of the three other solutions worked (keyboard button, globe button, or holding spacebar) Try uninstalling and reinstalling your keyboard app. With mine part of the first time set up included it bringing up the default keyboard selection. I can't get to settings disable it now but that doesn't really matter...
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: OK I had to go to my apps under Google play and click Gboard. Then I got a wizard that allowed me to set gbaord as default. Samsung default keyboard sucks. Gboard is better.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: Whenever you can input text, a "Select keyboard" notification should appear:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KwBzo.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLvpE.jpg)
Select keyboard notification / default keyboard (click images for larger variants)
Clicking on that will bring you to a screen with all of your enabled keyboards for selection (second screenshot). Selecting one of these options will set it as the default keyboard anytime your keyboard appears.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_7: Spacebar trick didn't work for me and there was no globe icon on my Samsung keyboard.
I searched for my keyboard of choice (G Board) in the Play Store, opened it and select it as my default from there.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_1: I had the same problem. I installed Gboard and it would then let me turn off Samsung Keyboard. After that, I was able to set the other keyboard I've used for a long time as the default
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/02 | 1,041 | 3,769 | <issue_start>username_0: I have bought Lenovo k4 note and have recently upgraded to Marshmallow. So I've 16 GB of internal memory out of which the Android 6.0 inbuilt memory app inside storage and USB setting, says 5.37 GB is OS occupied. 9.46 GB out of 10.63 GB is used. Further break down are as follows:
* Apps 5.29 GB
* Images 105 MB
* Videos 8 KB
* Audio 588 KB
* Other 488 MB
* Cached Data 183 MB
Which totals to 6.066 GB.
So now subtracting 6.066 GB from 9.46 GB I get 3.394 GB which I can't understand where it went.
Still after going inside file manager and clicking the view hidden files these are what I get:
* Android 2.17 GB
* Download 278.01 MB
* Shareit 200 MB
* WhatsApp 136 MB
* Pictures 74 MB
* Books 52 MB
* DCIM 29 MB
Which comes to around 3 something GB and still 3 GB are missing.. so.. around 6 GB of files are not showing.. I am unable to find the files that are taking up space. Can anyone help please.<issue_comment>username_1: It appears that some keyboards offer something under their keyboards (e.g. a special key) to switch keyboards. However others, such as the Google Keyboard do not.
However, what I have discovered is that whenever the on-screen keyboard is up, no matter which keyboard it is, there is a new virtual button at the bottom right of the screen with the icon of a keyboard. When I tap this icon a dialog box pops up to change the keyboard.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rmtKx.png)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I just figured out how to do the same thing on the Google keyboard while searching for the same thing. Hold down the little globe icon to the left of the Spacebar and it will list all available keyboards.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KGfo4.png)
Click to enlarge
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Press and hold spacebar. A pop up will appear after that where you can choose your default keyboard.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: TL,DR: try reinstalling your keyboard app
If you're like me and none of the three other solutions worked (keyboard button, globe button, or holding spacebar) Try uninstalling and reinstalling your keyboard app. With mine part of the first time set up included it bringing up the default keyboard selection. I can't get to settings disable it now but that doesn't really matter...
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: OK I had to go to my apps under Google play and click Gboard. Then I got a wizard that allowed me to set gbaord as default. Samsung default keyboard sucks. Gboard is better.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: Whenever you can input text, a "Select keyboard" notification should appear:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KwBzo.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLvpE.jpg)
Select keyboard notification / default keyboard (click images for larger variants)
Clicking on that will bring you to a screen with all of your enabled keyboards for selection (second screenshot). Selecting one of these options will set it as the default keyboard anytime your keyboard appears.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_7: Spacebar trick didn't work for me and there was no globe icon on my Samsung keyboard.
I searched for my keyboard of choice (G Board) in the Play Store, opened it and select it as my default from there.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_1: I had the same problem. I installed Gboard and it would then let me turn off Samsung Keyboard. After that, I was able to set the other keyboard I've used for a long time as the default
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/02 | 328 | 1,248 | <issue_start>username_0: I use Termux on my Fairphone 2 and I want to speed up working with it. What slows me down is not having an up arrow key that I can use to access the last command in my bash history. I can do `!!` `!7` and so on, but most of the time I don't want to actually repeat the commands, I just want to do something similar. I know some keyboard shortcuts to work with my bash history but they require a `ctrl` key, which none of my keyboards have. I use
* AnySoftKeyboard
* Hacker's Keyboard
* AOSP Keyboard
None of them have up arrow or `ctrl` keys
At the moment, I select and copy text by touching, but this is still slow.
How can I access my previous commands more quickly?<issue_comment>username_1: See the [Termux help page](https://wiki.termux.com/wiki/Touch_Keyboard) for how to input arrow keys using the VolumeUp button, VolumeDown for Ctrl and some additional shortcuts!
Volume Up+W → Up arrow key
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Volume UP + Q to add Ctrl, esc, tab, alt Keys on Termux
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: You said you use Hacker's Keyboard. If you turn the device into landscape mode Hacker's Keyboard does indeed have all four arrow keys along with ctrl & alt.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/10/02 | 1,102 | 3,659 | <issue_start>username_0: A while ago, I asked [a question](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/138223/convert-android-app-ebook-to-pdf) which has been deleted by Community
>
> Some Android apps are in fact ebooks. For example, [Learn Lisp](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tdt.learnlisp&hl=en&referrer=utm_source%3Dgoogle%26utm_medium%3Dorganic%26utm_term%3Dlearn%20lisp%20app&pcampaignid=APPU_14_RR7RVsXRHMXne4XNkqgE)
>
>
> Is it possible to convert android app ebook to pdf or some other document file types? Are there apps to
> do that?
>
>
>
[<NAME>.](https://android.stackexchange.com/users/44325/andrew-t) commented that:
>
> For this particular app: get the APK, open it with zip viewer, and
> browse the `/assets` folder; they're in HTML files. I can't answer if
> there's an automated way to convert it to PDF because the content
> structure will not be the same for other apps.
>
>
>
[Firelord](https://android.stackexchange.com/users/96277/firelord) commented that
>
> @AndrewT. good approach. You can add certain tweaks and I think it
> would make a good answer, well at least for some apps, if not for all.
> In Android, download busybox, get the APK, and then do `unzip -l APK_PATH | grep -E "FILETYPE$"`. If there exists a file with your
> extension, its path in APK would be listed. If the developer went to
> lengths to change the extension and hide the file, then this would
> fail.
>
>
>
My questions are:
* How can I get the APK file of an app after installing it from Google Play?
* Once I find the APK file of an app, can I copy it out of my android phone to my Ubuntu laptop and then extract the hidden document file in the apk file? Or do I have to extract on my android phone?
Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: >
> How can I get the APK file of an app after installing it from Google Play?
>
>
>
Multiple ways, but the easiest one, I suppose, is to install a [backup type app](https://play.google.com/store/search?q=app%20backup&c=apps) such as [App Backup Restore](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mobi.infolife.appbackup). Take the backup of the the target app and its APK would be saved inside a directory under the default storage (*/sdcard*).
>
> Once I find the APK file of an app, can I copy it out of my android phone to my Ubuntu laptop and then extract the hidden document file in the apk file? Or do I have to extract on my android phone?
>
>
>
An APK is an archive (MIME type: application/zip). You can copy it to your laptop alike any multimedia file.
As for the extraction of the contents, there are [multiple apps on Play Store](https://play.google.com/store/search?q=archive&c=apps) which supports extracting a ZIP file, so it is up to you to extract the app on Android or in your PC to explore its contents.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Connect your phone to your desktop with usb. make sure your desktop have the adb utility and a suitable driver for your phone is installed.
1. `adb start-server` ; `adb devices´ ##make sure device is connected.
2. `adb shell pm list packages|grep -i "keyword"` ##get the package full name, eg,my phone will get "package:com.sonyericsson.music" by running in powershell>> adb shell pm list packages|grep -i music
3. define the package's path "package:/data/app/com.sonyericsson.music-2/base.apk" by shell>> `adb shell pm path com.sonyericsson.music`
4. find the base.apk file in your working dir after running in shell>>`adb pull /data/app/com.netease.cloudmusic-1/base.apk`.
As the other guys say the apk file is actually a zip file, the extracting procedure seems easier.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/10/03 | 649 | 2,340 | <issue_start>username_0: I did a factory reset recently, and when I installed the latest version of Play Store and Google Play Services on my Android 6.0.1 device from [APKMirror](http://www.apkmirror.com/), it keeps showing `Unfortunately, Google Play Services has stopped`. Well, I have CWM13 ROM installed on my device, the app settings doesn't have the "Clear Cache" option, so I can't fix it in the common way.
Any ideas guys? Thx in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: >
> How can I get the APK file of an app after installing it from Google Play?
>
>
>
Multiple ways, but the easiest one, I suppose, is to install a [backup type app](https://play.google.com/store/search?q=app%20backup&c=apps) such as [App Backup Restore](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mobi.infolife.appbackup). Take the backup of the the target app and its APK would be saved inside a directory under the default storage (*/sdcard*).
>
> Once I find the APK file of an app, can I copy it out of my android phone to my Ubuntu laptop and then extract the hidden document file in the apk file? Or do I have to extract on my android phone?
>
>
>
An APK is an archive (MIME type: application/zip). You can copy it to your laptop alike any multimedia file.
As for the extraction of the contents, there are [multiple apps on Play Store](https://play.google.com/store/search?q=archive&c=apps) which supports extracting a ZIP file, so it is up to you to extract the app on Android or in your PC to explore its contents.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Connect your phone to your desktop with usb. make sure your desktop have the adb utility and a suitable driver for your phone is installed.
1. `adb start-server` ; `adb devices´ ##make sure device is connected.
2. `adb shell pm list packages|grep -i "keyword"` ##get the package full name, eg,my phone will get "package:com.sonyericsson.music" by running in powershell>> adb shell pm list packages|grep -i music
3. define the package's path "package:/data/app/com.sonyericsson.music-2/base.apk" by shell>> `adb shell pm path com.sonyericsson.music`
4. find the base.apk file in your working dir after running in shell>>`adb pull /data/app/com.netease.cloudmusic-1/base.apk`.
As the other guys say the apk file is actually a zip file, the extracting procedure seems easier.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/10/03 | 745 | 2,696 | <issue_start>username_0: Having recently gotten a drone with a camera, I find myself wanting to drop the SD card into my device to grab / share some raw photos / images, intended of just screen shots. The problem that I am having is that my android device is encrypted, and is asking to encrypt my drone's as card every time it is inserted.
On insert - I am prompted with the message ( would you like to encrypt this device ) to which I answer NO, the next toast message is SD card unmounted.
Every time I click mount, I am again prompted to encrypt the card, and if I click no it is automatically unmounted.
>
> The card is a standard FAT32 format - how can I mount the card and view my footage without reformatting / encrypting the card?
>
>
>
I am running an LG G4 (VS986) running Android 6.0.<issue_comment>username_1: >
> How can I get the APK file of an app after installing it from Google Play?
>
>
>
Multiple ways, but the easiest one, I suppose, is to install a [backup type app](https://play.google.com/store/search?q=app%20backup&c=apps) such as [App Backup Restore](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mobi.infolife.appbackup). Take the backup of the the target app and its APK would be saved inside a directory under the default storage (*/sdcard*).
>
> Once I find the APK file of an app, can I copy it out of my android phone to my Ubuntu laptop and then extract the hidden document file in the apk file? Or do I have to extract on my android phone?
>
>
>
An APK is an archive (MIME type: application/zip). You can copy it to your laptop alike any multimedia file.
As for the extraction of the contents, there are [multiple apps on Play Store](https://play.google.com/store/search?q=archive&c=apps) which supports extracting a ZIP file, so it is up to you to extract the app on Android or in your PC to explore its contents.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Connect your phone to your desktop with usb. make sure your desktop have the adb utility and a suitable driver for your phone is installed.
1. `adb start-server` ; `adb devices´ ##make sure device is connected.
2. `adb shell pm list packages|grep -i "keyword"` ##get the package full name, eg,my phone will get "package:com.sonyericsson.music" by running in powershell>> adb shell pm list packages|grep -i music
3. define the package's path "package:/data/app/com.sonyericsson.music-2/base.apk" by shell>> `adb shell pm path com.sonyericsson.music`
4. find the base.apk file in your working dir after running in shell>>`adb pull /data/app/com.netease.cloudmusic-1/base.apk`.
As the other guys say the apk file is actually a zip file, the extracting procedure seems easier.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/10/04 | 2,615 | 9,517 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a significant music collection on my computer, which I am still frequently adding to. While the songs I've downloaded in the last several years are all DRM free (either downloaded for free or on iTunes post-DRM), I have many songs from the iTunes-DRM era. I use an iPhone as my phone almost exclusively for this reason (to use DRM-laced songs). Recently I have become disillusioned with iPhones and am considering switching to one of the new Google Pixel phones. However, my biggest hangup is still being able to store all my music on my device.
Now that Apple Music is available for iPhone, I was thinking it might be possible to access all my music on an Android phone--but I can't figure out conclusively if this will work. I have checked [this official Apple page](https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT205397):
>
> From your own collection
>
>
> To add music that you imported from CDs, or bought from the iTunes Store or other sources, use iTunes on a Mac or PC. Make sure that you have the latest version of iTunes.
>
>
> 1. Open iTunes.
> 2. Sign in to the iTunes Store with the same Apple ID that you use on your Android phone for Apple Music.
> 3. Turn on iCloud Music Library and wait for iTunes to finish updating your library.
>
>
> Any music that you add to iTunes after you turn on iCloud Music Library will be available in Apple Music on your Android phone.
>
>
>
However, I would like to avoid having to upload all my music to the iCloud Music Library (don't want to have to deal with that when I really just want to offload music straight from my computer to my device using a USB cord).
**Can I transfer songs from my computer (Mac) to an Android phone that has Apple Music (or maybe some other software?) using a wired connection, *without* having to upload everything to iCloud? If so, will this work even for iTunes-DRM-laced songs?**
If iCloud is the only option, I will probably cave and do this, but only if it will work with *all* my songs (from iTunes-DRM, iTunes-non-DRM, non-iTunes), and if I don't have to pay to store my songs on iCloud (again, I don't need to be able to access them from anywhere, just my computer and a single Android phone).
Similar questions have been asked before, but are all out of date (3-6 years old).:
* [Android and iTunes](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/1351/android-and-itunes)
* [Can I play DRM music from iTunes on my Android?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/6062/can-i-play-drm-music-from-itunes-on-my-android)
* [How do I get this iTunes song on an Android device?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/55199/how-do-i-get-this-itunes-song-on-an-android-device)<issue_comment>username_1: *Warning: this answer has been proven* ***not*** *to work with DRM protected songs. [This answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/160109/) helps with that.*
Yay! You can!
==============
You will need to consult here to be able to use android's MTP function on your Mac: [android.com/filetransfer](http://android.com/filetransfer "Here.")
Here is how:
1. Plug your Phone in via MTP, and open a window leading to it's music folder/ where you want the music to go.
2. Open **another** window and go [Your username] > iTunes > iTunes Music (also called iTunes Media)
(If it ain't there, check in iTunes where the music is saved, OR go into its advanced preferences and check if 'Copy files to iTunes Media folder when adding to library' is checked.)
3. Copy and paste it to your device, like a boss.
Hope that helps! IF you are having trouble playing it, use VLC media player. Its very good when it comes to format support.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Of course, it's trivial to transfer the non-DRM music. There are [lots of apps](https://play.google.com/store/search?q=sync%20music%20itunes&c=apps&hl=en) on Google Play that effectively sync iTunes with Android in an iTunes-iOS way. Personally, I really like [iSyncr](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jrtstudio.iSyncrLite) used together with [Rocket Player](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jrtstudio.AnotherMusicPlayer&hl=en). It can also be done manually via [Android File Transfer](https://www.android.com/filetransfer/). The problem, however, comes with the DRM music.
I've been in exactly the same situation as you. I made the move from iOS to Android, and had a bunch of old iTunes DRM music in my iTunes library that I wanted to sync to my Android devices.
### There is absolutely no way to playback the iTunes DRM files on Android
I've tried this personally, and I can confirm that at the time of writing (October 2016) there is absolutely no way to do it. iTunes DRM music will **only** play on Apple software. The Apple Music Android app *might* stream your uploaded music, but only if you're a **paid** subscriber. Apple Music doesn't let you do **anything** unless you get a paid plan. That's the first thing the app asks you to do when you open it, and there's really no other functionality to the app unless you do that. And even if you *were* a paid subscriber, I'm not sure what sort of offline or internal storage functionality the app would give you. It's really a *streaming* app.
### You need DRM-free files
Please note: These methods all have annoying flaws about them. I'm sorry, but I'm really not aware of any better ways. I have searched quite thoroughly.
### Option1 : Burn to a virtual CD and reimport
This is probably the easiest and most reliable way to do it. (Unless you have dozens of albums, in which case, yes, it's a lot of manual work.) [Emulate a burnable CD](https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/30790/153510). Use iTunes to burn the songs do the virtual disk. The [software](http://www.macupdate.com/app/mac/33355/virtual-cd-rw) will burn it very fast since it's virtual. It will instantly be mounted as a virtual CD on your macOS. You can then import the songs to iTunes again, DRM-free. This is also very fast. I used Apple Lossless format while reimporting, because I have OCD about not losing quality. I have tried this on Yosemite and it 100% works. Here's an [alternative for Windows users](https://superuser.com/q/126571/507566) (haven't tried it myself, though.) If, somehow, emulation doesn't work for you, then I guess you could use a **re**writeable actual physical CD. That would be much slower, though.
### Option 2: Delete and redownload from iTunes (may not always work.)
[According to Apple](https://discussions.apple.com/thread/7387027?start=0&tstart=0), you can delete the DRM songs from your iTunes library and download them again from the iTunes store. This is supposed to give you non-DRM copies of the songs. However, I've found that this doesn't always work. I just tried it with one song that I bought 10 years ago, and the downloaded file was DRM. Also, it was 128 kbps even though I would have gotten twice that bitrate had I purchased the same song today. Thanks, Apple! Also, if trying this, make sure you have a **backup** of your songs before deleting them. Previously purchased items are not always available for redownload.
### Option 3: Pay Apple to remove the DRM (ugh)
According to some of the answers to this [question on Ask Different](https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/33855/how-can-i-remove-drm-from-my-itunes-music-without-transcoding), you can pay Apple for some services to remove the DRM. I'm not sure if this works anymore, though. Also it just *feels* bad to have to pay again for music you've already bought and paid for.
### Option 4: Remove DRM with (paid) app
There's another way that will (unfortunatley) cost you money too.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HGLKq.png)
The app is called TunesKit, and can be purchased from [here](http://www.tuneskit.com/apple-music-converter-for-mac.html). I've tried the free trial version, and it worked fine. Unfortunately, the limitations with the free trial mean that you'll need the paid version for it to be of any real use.
In the past, there were free apps to do what that app does. I haven't been able to get any of those apps to work as of today. I haven't found any currently working free apps that remove iTunes DRM. If anyone knows of any, then please let me know.
### Option 5: Download again from non-DRM source
One final option is to simply redownload your music from a non-DRM source and delete the old DRM music. For example, I had some music from General Fuzz, an artist who licenses his music under the Creative Commons license. I had already paid for his music through iTunes (as a way to support him), so I merely used BitTorrent to download his music again, legally. Of course, it's likely that the vast majority of your music is *not* licensed under such a license. However, you have already paid for the music. If your personal morals, the laws in your jurisdiction and your computer knowledge allows you to do this safely, then you may consider simply redownloading the music through BitTorrent. I personally wouldn't have any ethical objections to downloading music I'd already paid for in this fashion, but do consider the laws of your juridsiction.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: You can sync your iTunes music files from your windows or mac through an app called *AirSync by doubleTwist* - available in [Google Play](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.doubleTwist.androidPlayerProKey) store.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/05 | 592 | 1,990 | <issue_start>username_0: I can turn it into an IP Webcam fairly easily using a myriad of apps + iSpy on the desktop.
However, even with 2 gigabit wifi, framerate seems unreasonably poor. Therefore, I would like to plug in my USB cable and stream it (DisplayLink can stream 4k over USB, so it must be possible in theory)
This would save me from spending hundreds of dollars on yet another camera. 4k video is supported by my Samsung S6, and that would be amazing to be able to use as a webcam.<issue_comment>username_1: I finally found a way using USB debugging support on the Android. The steps are quite involved, but here they are: <http://www.dev47apps.com/droidcam/connect/>
Careful, your phone can overheat when doing this for awhile. Also keep in mind that 4k is not supported, just 1080p. Both on Wifi & on USB the framerate alternates between super fast (>30fps), and super slow (<4fps) in both OBS & iSpy. Not sure why. I think it's the app since native video recording works.
I'm going to do native recording and use a clapping trick to sync audio between an external mic and the internal one from here on out.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: You can use [Iriun 4K Webcam for PC and Mac](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jacksoftw.webcam) (gratis for basic features) to use your Android phone's camera as a wireless or USB webcam in Microsoft Windows, macOS 10.12+ and Ubuntu 18.04+.
It supports resolutions up to 4K. (Max resolution depends on the phone).
---
Samsung Galaxy S9 with Android 10:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yeZZA.jpg)
Windows 7 SP1 x64 Ultimate (go to <https://iriun.com/> to get the program):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qnbgk.png)
The instructions are straightforward:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LHLVm.png)
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/10/05 | 680 | 2,944 | <issue_start>username_0: I was looking into how to do batch backups through individual adb backup/restore commands (to have separate .ab files per package/application/data/etc.) (I'm aware of the Helium (Carbon) desktop app as an option for this - would be interested in writing my own script for fun anyway).
The reason for wanting to create individual .ab files vs a large one is I want to be able to have partial backup/restore functionality for just individual packages, and not have to do, for example, 50 apps all at once.
The main obstacle at the moment is that every time a backup/restore occurs, user input has to be given when the prompt comes up - is there a way around this to be able to use adb backup/restore for multiple individual packages through something like a shell script?
Thanks!<issue_comment>username_1: So, it would appear that there's no built in and (at least seemingly) intended way for us to do this.
Instead, this is possible through the `adb shell sendevent` command - this can emulate touch input from a computer with the adb tools (and any relevant drivers) installed, provided the phone has provided adb access to that specific machine.
Events can be recorded using `adb shell getevent` and replayed with `adb shell sendevent`. A user could then record the accepting button presses, and save a script that replays them. Of course, this introduces issues such as when there's a screen overlay (e.g. from red shift lighting apps) preventing pressing of the button, if something else appears (maybe a chat bubble, etc.), and any other number of obstructions, so it's a workaround at best.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can try using `adb shell input tap` where x and y are the coordinates of where you would like to tap on the screen (can show coords in Developer Options). I was able to use this code to restore an individual backup:
```
#$1 is backup file
adb restore ${1} &
sleep 2
adb shell input touchscreen tap
wait
```
I found it useful to sleep for a couple seconds after the restore command, but it may not be necessary.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: this seems particularly odd, but in that expected google evil way. From my own incomplete but growing understanding of things- you can convert the restore file to a tar file by changing the first 24 bytes. So then the question is, would a simple tar extraction in a particular way (remounting something or other rw temporarily?) accomplish the same thing the adb restore is doing? Of course the source is theoretically all there. I was planning on trying things out eventually and seeing if they seem to work good enough to justify not caring enough to dig through that source. Yes, this is a pretty crappy answer, but it seems worthwhile as a placeholder until a little adb shell script with tar invokage or the like takes its place, which is what I presume the original questioner and I would like to see.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/05 | 808 | 3,264 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm wondering how can I customize android operating system in my smartphone? I have LG L90 D410 smartphone. It has Android KitKat 4.4.2.
Like we customize Windows 7 (for PC) by slipstreaming it using RT Se7en Lite or nLite software. We decide which software or updates we want to add or remove to/from the installation disc (iso file). Similarly we have nokia theme studio s40 for customizing symbian s40 nokia phones.
In the same way, do we have any Windows based software which can customize/configure Android operating system so that I can decide what apps will be bundled in the KitKat and what built-in apps (unnecessary factory apps) that I no longer need can be removed to save space and avoid cluttering. Is there any GUI based software available in the market which can enable us to tweak the android phone the way I want and put full hold on it?
**EDIT**
Ok guys; I am willing to root my phone from very beginning but don't know how and where to start on. My phone's warranty has already been expired so no need to worry about it. But you didn't tell me about any software or appropriate article though which I can start the process. I already knew the phone needs to be rooted before any tweaking. But how to and what's next. Any subject oriented stackexchange post will be very helpful too.<issue_comment>username_1: Unless you've rooted your device,you can't absolutely remove built-in apps on your android phones,but you can simply disable them through settings>apps.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: No, you can't remove the stock apps from your phone, you'll have to root it first.
But when you do, you'll be able to not only remove apps you don't want or need, but even always use the newest Android version (even if it isn't even officially supported from your device), install new, custom operating systems and much more like restricting permissions from apps you don't want to give them but still use them. I'd recommend it to you, although many manufacturers don't like that and void the warranty if you root your phone.
How exactly to do that is device-specific, you'll have to do some googling. And, if you decide to root, *always* make a full backup first! This way if you accidentally break anything, you'll be on the save side.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Check out this XDA Developers subforum: <http://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-l90>
That's the general discussion forum for your phone, and you can find lots of fun stuff there including mods, themes, guides to root and do other things, custom ROMs, kernels, and more. If you want to play with or change your operating system or its features in any way, XDA is the place to keep a lookout in. But make sure you read posts **thoroughly** to make sure that you know what you're doing and so that you don't end up breaking or bricking your phone.
As for your specific request, [this thread in the L90 forums](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2732311) will get your phone rooted quick and easy as long as you follow the instructions well. Make sure you get ADB and download all the files prior to starting the process, and also, please don't jump into it without *making a backup*.
Good luck!
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2016/10/05 | 235 | 722 | <issue_start>username_0: My Samsung tablet 10.1 GT-P7510 is running Android 4.0.4.
I have root access to the device.
What is the best way to install python on my device.
I have tried [QPython - Python for Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.qpython.qpy&hl=en) however the pip console does not show any text as I type into it.
Thank you for your time in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: I installed the hackers keyboard and and now I can type into the pip console which is visible.
Silly me.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can try SL4A.
Which can help you to run python on Android. <https://github.com/kuri65536/sl4a/releases/download/6.1.1/sl4a-r6.1.1-arm-debug.apk>
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/05 | 1,506 | 5,579 | <issue_start>username_0: On my Android phone, how can a user add a [bookmarklet](http://www.howtogeek.com/189358/beginner-geek-how-to-use-bookmarklets-on-any-device/) to my Chrome bookmarks, *without needing to use another device, and without copying and pasting?*
I have a bookmarklet on my website that I want *other people* to add to their bookmarks, so I'm looking for a straightforward method.
Bookmarklets are bookmarks, but of which contain Javascript code instead of a regular web link.
Bookmarklets can be added to Chrome on the PC very easily in many ways.
* However, on Android, if the bookmarklet is displayed as a link on a
page, it cannot be "dragged to the bookmark bar" as with a PC.
* If I try to open it in a new tab, the address bar will not contain the
Javascript, so the user can't use the bookmark button.
* Tapping the link to the bookmarklet will not put the code in the address bar either.
* The only way I've been able to add a bookmarklet on my
phone has been to tap and hold on the link, then tap "Copy link
address", then edit a *pre-existing* bookmark's link and pasting in
the bookmarklet code, then renaming said bookmark. But that's a pain, and trying to explain it to non tech savy folks isn't happening.
Is there a more simple method?
Note that I have a particular bookmarklet that even when added on my PC, does NOT sync to my Phone's bookmarks. I believe it may be due to the length (It's over 9000 characters!). This is why I need an easy method for users to save this bookmarklet.<issue_comment>username_1: You can add (and execute) bookmarklets entirely in Android Chrome.
The caveat: it takes more work than just drag-and-drop in the desktop counterpart.
### Save a bookmarklet (Android Chrome)
1. Long tap the desired bookmarklet
2. Select *Copy link address*
3. Go to Menu (three dots) and tap the Star (bookmark)
4. BEFORE IT DISAPPEARS, tap **EDIT**! (at the bottom)
5. Erase everything in the **URL** field, and type `javascript:`
* *Side note:* If the url of the page is really, really long, you might want to long tap the url contents: the keyboard will appear, and then start typing immediately.
6. Long tap at the right of the `javascript:` and then tap `PASTE`
7. If you did it right, the begginning of URL should look somewhat like:
>
> `javascript:(function(){lots-of-code-here...`
>
>
> *(The `:` is still in `javascript:`)*
>
>
>
8. Change the **Name** to something useful (you'll use it later, see below)
9. Optional: Pick the destination **Folder** where you want your bookmarklet stored.
10. When done, press the back button.
11. You might want to test the bookmarklet. Read below:
### Execute a bookmarklet (Android Chrome)
From [How-To Geek](https://www.howtogeek.com/189358/beginner-geek-how-to-use-bookmarklets-on-any-device/) (the link you sent):
>
> In mobile Chrome, you’ll need to launch the bookmarklet from the location [address] bar. Open the web page you want to run the bookmarklet on, tap your location bar, and start searching for the name of the bookmarklet. Tap the bookmarklet’s name to run it on the current page.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: Here is an easy solution.
1. Save the bookmarklet on Chrome on your desktop give it a name, say, BM1
2. Turn sync on the chrome browser in both desktop and mobile Chrome browsers. When the sync is on, all the bookmarks and bookmarklets gets transferred to the mobile phone as well.
3. Now, this should make our bookmarklet accessible in the mobile chrome browser. Here is how to execute the bookmarklet: Type the name of the bookmarklet BM1 in the search bar. And, google chrome will give you suggestion based on what you type on the address bar and there will be your bookmarklet. Now, simply click the bookmarklet once you see it.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: If I understand your question correctly, you want to:
1. Let users add bookmarklets from your own website in Chrome for Android. To achieve this, you could use JavaScript to add a bookmark from here:
<https://gist.github.com/oilvier/70abd45d1f2ffc98b568>
If this does not work, you could use JavaScript to copy the bookmarklet into the user's clipboard. Not really the solution you're looking for, but it removes one step in the user guide mentioned below.
2. Let users add bookmarklets from any website:
1. Long press on the bookmarklet and select "Copy URL"
2. Press on the 3 dot menu on the upper right and touch the star.
3. 1. At the bottom, there is a small popup where you touch "Change"
2. If the popup disappeared too fast, repeat step 3 which brings you to the "Change bookmark" screen too.
4. Long press on the text field below URL and then choose "Insert"
5. Hit the arrow pointing to the left.
Solution (2) is very similar to your current solution, but you don't need a desktop or a pre-existing bookmark as it creates a new one. 5 easy steps for average users, especially if you use screenshots to help them understand where to touch.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Chrome Android doesn't let you run Bookmarklets the traditional way, But, there is a workaround, you can call Bookmarklet from the address bar,
First, you have to manually create a Bookmarklet by editing it,
For example, `javascript:alert('foo');` and name it.
Then, on the page you want to run this, search for the bookmarklet name in the address bar, and click on it.
Below Tutorial might be helpful.
<https://paul.kinlan.me/use-bookmarklets-on-chrome-on-android/>
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/05 | 1,188 | 4,321 | <issue_start>username_0: I need to import [that file](https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwPIpgeJ2AdnUGUzVGJuak5abDg/) to google drive.
The problem is I can t download it right now, and the file will probably be deleted in few hours as marshmallow for galaxy tab S is out.<issue_comment>username_1: You can add (and execute) bookmarklets entirely in Android Chrome.
The caveat: it takes more work than just drag-and-drop in the desktop counterpart.
### Save a bookmarklet (Android Chrome)
1. Long tap the desired bookmarklet
2. Select *Copy link address*
3. Go to Menu (three dots) and tap the Star (bookmark)
4. BEFORE IT DISAPPEARS, tap **EDIT**! (at the bottom)
5. Erase everything in the **URL** field, and type `javascript:`
* *Side note:* If the url of the page is really, really long, you might want to long tap the url contents: the keyboard will appear, and then start typing immediately.
6. Long tap at the right of the `javascript:` and then tap `PASTE`
7. If you did it right, the begginning of URL should look somewhat like:
>
> `javascript:(function(){lots-of-code-here...`
>
>
> *(The `:` is still in `javascript:`)*
>
>
>
8. Change the **Name** to something useful (you'll use it later, see below)
9. Optional: Pick the destination **Folder** where you want your bookmarklet stored.
10. When done, press the back button.
11. You might want to test the bookmarklet. Read below:
### Execute a bookmarklet (Android Chrome)
From [How-To Geek](https://www.howtogeek.com/189358/beginner-geek-how-to-use-bookmarklets-on-any-device/) (the link you sent):
>
> In mobile Chrome, you’ll need to launch the bookmarklet from the location [address] bar. Open the web page you want to run the bookmarklet on, tap your location bar, and start searching for the name of the bookmarklet. Tap the bookmarklet’s name to run it on the current page.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: Here is an easy solution.
1. Save the bookmarklet on Chrome on your desktop give it a name, say, BM1
2. Turn sync on the chrome browser in both desktop and mobile Chrome browsers. When the sync is on, all the bookmarks and bookmarklets gets transferred to the mobile phone as well.
3. Now, this should make our bookmarklet accessible in the mobile chrome browser. Here is how to execute the bookmarklet: Type the name of the bookmarklet BM1 in the search bar. And, google chrome will give you suggestion based on what you type on the address bar and there will be your bookmarklet. Now, simply click the bookmarklet once you see it.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: If I understand your question correctly, you want to:
1. Let users add bookmarklets from your own website in Chrome for Android. To achieve this, you could use JavaScript to add a bookmark from here:
<https://gist.github.com/oilvier/70abd45d1f2ffc98b568>
If this does not work, you could use JavaScript to copy the bookmarklet into the user's clipboard. Not really the solution you're looking for, but it removes one step in the user guide mentioned below.
2. Let users add bookmarklets from any website:
1. Long press on the bookmarklet and select "Copy URL"
2. Press on the 3 dot menu on the upper right and touch the star.
3. 1. At the bottom, there is a small popup where you touch "Change"
2. If the popup disappeared too fast, repeat step 3 which brings you to the "Change bookmark" screen too.
4. Long press on the text field below URL and then choose "Insert"
5. Hit the arrow pointing to the left.
Solution (2) is very similar to your current solution, but you don't need a desktop or a pre-existing bookmark as it creates a new one. 5 easy steps for average users, especially if you use screenshots to help them understand where to touch.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Chrome Android doesn't let you run Bookmarklets the traditional way, But, there is a workaround, you can call Bookmarklet from the address bar,
First, you have to manually create a Bookmarklet by editing it,
For example, `javascript:alert('foo');` and name it.
Then, on the page you want to run this, search for the bookmarklet name in the address bar, and click on it.
Below Tutorial might be helpful.
<https://paul.kinlan.me/use-bookmarklets-on-chrome-on-android/>
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/07 | 1,274 | 4,721 | <issue_start>username_0: There are many old/partial/... threads about this where I find none of them satisfactory and sufficient.
I want to turn all notifications off of my Android Facebook app.
It has not been possible before, so I did not have the app.
I will uninstall the app if there is no solution for the task.
I have browsed all Facebook settings but they do not have anything about turning all notifications off.
I would like to find also System specific block for Facebook App i.e. do not allow it it to show me any notifications.
It would be great if you can do this without third party appplications.
Phone: Oneplus 2
OS: OxygenOS 3.1 (Android 6)<issue_comment>username_1: You can add (and execute) bookmarklets entirely in Android Chrome.
The caveat: it takes more work than just drag-and-drop in the desktop counterpart.
### Save a bookmarklet (Android Chrome)
1. Long tap the desired bookmarklet
2. Select *Copy link address*
3. Go to Menu (three dots) and tap the Star (bookmark)
4. BEFORE IT DISAPPEARS, tap **EDIT**! (at the bottom)
5. Erase everything in the **URL** field, and type `javascript:`
* *Side note:* If the url of the page is really, really long, you might want to long tap the url contents: the keyboard will appear, and then start typing immediately.
6. Long tap at the right of the `javascript:` and then tap `PASTE`
7. If you did it right, the begginning of URL should look somewhat like:
>
> `javascript:(function(){lots-of-code-here...`
>
>
> *(The `:` is still in `javascript:`)*
>
>
>
8. Change the **Name** to something useful (you'll use it later, see below)
9. Optional: Pick the destination **Folder** where you want your bookmarklet stored.
10. When done, press the back button.
11. You might want to test the bookmarklet. Read below:
### Execute a bookmarklet (Android Chrome)
From [How-To Geek](https://www.howtogeek.com/189358/beginner-geek-how-to-use-bookmarklets-on-any-device/) (the link you sent):
>
> In mobile Chrome, you’ll need to launch the bookmarklet from the location [address] bar. Open the web page you want to run the bookmarklet on, tap your location bar, and start searching for the name of the bookmarklet. Tap the bookmarklet’s name to run it on the current page.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: Here is an easy solution.
1. Save the bookmarklet on Chrome on your desktop give it a name, say, BM1
2. Turn sync on the chrome browser in both desktop and mobile Chrome browsers. When the sync is on, all the bookmarks and bookmarklets gets transferred to the mobile phone as well.
3. Now, this should make our bookmarklet accessible in the mobile chrome browser. Here is how to execute the bookmarklet: Type the name of the bookmarklet BM1 in the search bar. And, google chrome will give you suggestion based on what you type on the address bar and there will be your bookmarklet. Now, simply click the bookmarklet once you see it.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: If I understand your question correctly, you want to:
1. Let users add bookmarklets from your own website in Chrome for Android. To achieve this, you could use JavaScript to add a bookmark from here:
<https://gist.github.com/oilvier/70abd45d1f2ffc98b568>
If this does not work, you could use JavaScript to copy the bookmarklet into the user's clipboard. Not really the solution you're looking for, but it removes one step in the user guide mentioned below.
2. Let users add bookmarklets from any website:
1. Long press on the bookmarklet and select "Copy URL"
2. Press on the 3 dot menu on the upper right and touch the star.
3. 1. At the bottom, there is a small popup where you touch "Change"
2. If the popup disappeared too fast, repeat step 3 which brings you to the "Change bookmark" screen too.
4. Long press on the text field below URL and then choose "Insert"
5. Hit the arrow pointing to the left.
Solution (2) is very similar to your current solution, but you don't need a desktop or a pre-existing bookmark as it creates a new one. 5 easy steps for average users, especially if you use screenshots to help them understand where to touch.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Chrome Android doesn't let you run Bookmarklets the traditional way, But, there is a workaround, you can call Bookmarklet from the address bar,
First, you have to manually create a Bookmarklet by editing it,
For example, `javascript:alert('foo');` and name it.
Then, on the page you want to run this, search for the bookmarklet name in the address bar, and click on it.
Below Tutorial might be helpful.
<https://paul.kinlan.me/use-bookmarklets-on-chrome-on-android/>
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/07 | 283 | 1,075 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently bought a Samsung A510FD(Android v5.1.1) and attempted to root it but failed and this messaged appeared on my screen: RECOVERY IS NOT ENFORCING.I was then unable to shut my phone down.By force shutting down my phone with (power off button + volume down button) would cause it to on again.I tried connecting my phone to my computer via USB but my computer wouldn't detect it as well as Odin. Please help me ASAP!<issue_comment>username_1: **Solved**
I rooted my S5 Neo G903W using CF-Autoroot and stuck on boot screen with the red message.. SEAndroid not enforcing...
I simply installed TWRP recovery and formatted "Daliv-Cache" & "Cache" and able to boot.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: To my experience, the non-SEAndroid enforcement is just a warning, after installing Cyanogenmod on my S4 I had that error every boot, and it still worked.
Try flashing the stock firmware if you cannot get it to boot, perhaps your rooting method is broken.
In case you don't already know, that warning trips one of the warranty bits
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/10/07 | 945 | 3,531 | <issue_start>username_0: Using the calendar app, Google calendar or any other calendar app, I can share any one event as text. Is it possible to share/export several events at once? A whole day? Some days? The entire calendar?
Not sure if this matters but I'm using S6 Edge+<issue_comment>username_1: It seems like by using Google Calendar app, an edit can happen on specific event and multiple event editing is not supported.
Below are the steps mentioned in [official page](https://support.google.com/calendar/answer/37161?co=GENIE.Platform%3DAndroid&hl=en&oco=1) of Android cal. app
* Open the Google Calendar app Google Calendar.
* Open **the event you want to add people t**o.
* Tap Edit Edit.
* Tap Invite people.
* Type the name or email address of the person you want to invite.
* Tap Save.
Of course you can invite multiple guests/people to a specific event, but editing multiple event (to share it) does not seems possible at this time via Google Calendar app.
But if you are using Google calendar on Computer, it seems it is possible to share the whole calendar. You can read the instructions for this on the [official page](https://support.google.com/calendar/answer/37082?hl=en), but below are the basic steps.
* Open Google Calendar on a computer.
* On the left, find Drop-down menu My Calendars. You may need to click to expand it.
* Find the calendar you want to share and click the arrow next to it.
* Menu on hover over calendar name
* Select Share this Calendar.
* Under Share with specific people, add the email address of the person you want to share with.
* For Permission Settings, choose an option in the drop-down menu. Learn more about these options below.
* Click Add person, if they aren't already added.
* Click Save.
If you shared your calendar with an individual email address, they'll see your calendar in their "Other calendars" list. If you shared your calendar with an email group , they'll see the calendar in their "Other calendars" list once they click on the link in the email invitation from Google Calendar.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: [Super Backup](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.idea.backup.smscontacts) can export calendar events in xml. Or you can try [Davdroid](https://davdroid.bitfire.at/configuration) app.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: This is a workaround but does the job
* Log in to [gcal2excel](https://app.gcal2excel.com/exporter#advanced) using your Gmail. It is a free service for first month, with professional features . After the first month you can continue free in [basic mode](https://www.gcal2excel.com/plans/), which likely suffice for the requirements you mentioned ( example below uses Mozilla, you can use Chrome too)
* Select options to filter ( in the screenshots below I have selected Holiday list and not other details for obvious reasons ) and in export file formats choose`html`
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QcOwVm.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kjplSm.jpg)
* Email or download the `html` file, open with inbuilt html viewer or [any html viewer](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=in.vineetsirohi.htmlreader), copy and paste into your [text editor of choice](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.byteexperts.texteditor)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NLVxtm.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/10/07 | 670 | 2,696 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been using my Lenovo A328 for less than a year, when its battery started suddenly dropping its charge from ~80% to 15%, then even to 3% and less and the phone switched off. I've now replaced the battery, but after several charge/discharge cycles it started to behave very similarly. Here's its typical charge history:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/f2KsZ.jpg)
Click to Enlarge
Since the battery has been replaced very recently, I conclude that it's not the battery's fault. But what else can be the reason? The phone lies in my pocket most of the time, and I occasionally take it to make some calls or use GPS or WiFi. It doesn't seem to be a heavy use, and even if it were, I'd expect battery meter to show a smoother charge curve.
Can it be an OS fault (but I did upgrade firmware to latest version, without any difference)? Or does my device need to be repaired?<issue_comment>username_1: There are three things at play :
* IC in the battery that communicates battery parameters to the OS - not a culprit since you changed the battery recently
* Hardware issue- unlikely, since you report it happening at random battery percentage values
* Drivers in the OS, that read the values from the battery and amongst other things, display the battery percentage. This seems to be the culprit as you can see from the complaints in [Lenovo forum](https://forums.lenovo.com/t5/A-Series-Smartphones/A328-battery-draining-suddenly-while-the-phone-is-not-in-use/td-p/1818012). First post goes in length and after detailed investigation points the conclusion that the battery is fine but the problem lies with OS - system not showing the real amount of energy the battery still has, the reported values are much lower than actual leading to the device being shut down for prolonging battery life ( *deep discharge* is bad for Li Ion batteries)
This problem ideally should have been ruled out after firmware upgrade, but if the upgrade did not address the root cause ( as is evident from multiple complaints), firmware upgrade didn't help.
I guess you can complain to the company and add your voice in the forum
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I don't know what version of Android you are running but if I click 'Battery' and then the picture of the battery I can see exactly what has been using my battery. (I found leaving a dictionary application open even after pressing the power off button really drained the battery.)
Charging hardware could also be a problem. Are you sure it isn't your charger? (They do stop working.) Alternatively, is there a problem inside your phone?
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/08 | 738 | 2,996 | <issue_start>username_0: I sync'd my PC-based Outlook contacts with my Sony Xperia XA, using MyPhoneExplorer. It tells me 3526 contacts are sync'd, and in checking the phone with ContactsOptimizer, it reports the same number. When I open the Contacts app, it does not show some of my contacts! I discovered this, because the first one I looked for was my own - not there!
However, when I called my phone from my house phone ... my contact entry came up! Picture and everything! And when I clicked "View Contact Entry", it showed me the whole thing - perfectly! But I go back into the Contacts app ... not there!
This happens for a relatively small (but significant!) number of contacts that I could see so far - in other words, not just one ... at least 10 I counted.
I tried Settings->Apps->Media Storage->Clear Data and reboot ... clears the picture data, for sure, but not Contacts!
PLEASE somebody help me get sane again! How can the contact be in the phone, but not show in Contacts?! I can't find any specific way to rebuild the Contacts app's database - only to CLEAR DATA, which I don't want.
PLEASE ... help me get sane again:-)<issue_comment>username_1: There is a feature in Google Contacts that allows the user to display only a part of the contacts or all contacts. It is possible that you have yours set to customise.
In the Google Contacts app,
Go to *Settings* > *Contacts to Display* > Enable *All contacts*
I hope this fixed it!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: From the surface clues, I thought the index was corrupt. Not the issue at all. Being a newbie to the Android, I was unaware of all the myriad features of the beast:-)
A lot more digging found the "problem". Namely, I use lots of category designations in my Outlook contacts. MyPhoneExplorer does a 100% correct job of transporting all these ... BUT, turns out the Android contacts app in its FILTER option treats these in a bizarre way. Namely, if you try ...
Contacts->->Filter->Display contacts->Local
... you see that ALL the existing categories are checked ... BUT, the very bottom one ("All other contacts") is NOT CHECKED. The result is that all contacts WITH categories get displayed, and any without a designated CATEGORY are NOT displayed.
Simple solution (discovered after a week of hell:-)) ... just check the "All other contacts" box, and PRESTO! Now I see everything.
Post-script: whoever designed this "Display contacts" feature has it backwards! The default should be to show ALL contacts, with option to the user to narrow the selection by UNCHECKING various boxes.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Goto Contact ==> Settings ==> Contacts to Display ==> Enable all options ==> Restart your mobile.
These options will be having to display contacts from SIM1, SIM2, gmail and etc. While displaying contact, do not forget to select All.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: In my case I had to enable "Display contacts without Telephone number" and reboot my device.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/08 | 320 | 1,249 | <issue_start>username_0: I use a Lenovo P1 mobile. I was able to connect the mobile to the PC through the USB charging cable which came with the box. As soon as I connect the USB to the PC, a notification would show in my mobile "USB Setting(not exactly sure)". I used to click on the notification and I was able to change the setting from "Charge only" to "MTP (Media Transfer". Thus, I was able to add my file to the Mobiles(songs, lectures etc).
Recently, after updating my Phone to Android 6.0.1; I am unable to do so.
I have tried searching for the USB settings manually, but to no avail.
I would appreciate if you would help me.<issue_comment>username_1: You need to turn on the developer options in your phone (settings)
Then under developer options you can set the USB transfer options.
They moved it under developer options.
Hope this helps :-)
Tom
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Go to "Settings" first and then tap on "About Phone", hit "Build Number" till you can see the "Developer options" and then you can turn on USB debugging and manage your files.
Here I read an article about it: <http://wccftech.com/enable-developer-options-in-android-6-marshmallow/>, you can find detailed answers here.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/08 | 818 | 3,522 | <issue_start>username_0: I once had to locate my phone from my ex-boyfriend's cell phone. Now he is constantly locating my whereabouts with Android Device Manager. I have removed my device from his list of devices on his account. However, my device still shows up when I go to "find my phone". I do not have access to his cell phone or computer as he has moved 2000 miles away. I have tried everything I can think of online. Please help.<issue_comment>username_1: It's a really simple solution: change your Google password. This will lock him out of your Google account.
If he never had access to your Google account and he is tracking you from another Google account you are signed into on the phone, go into settings -> accounts and remove the offending account that gives him access to you phone's location.
If neither of these solutions work, you can disable the Android Device Manager for your device entirely. Go to settings -> security -> Android Device Manager -> Remotely Locate this Device / Allow remote lock and erase. This is a foolproof way of fixing the issue, but will remove your ability to use the Android Device Manager entirely and is a new setting added in Marshmallow, so you may not have it. The first 2 options, however should fix this.
As a side note, the fact that he is still tracking you with this against your will could give you legal grounds for stalking depending on where you live.
>
> Definitely add something about 2-step and make sure *not* to hook it up to phone number.
>
>
>
This is definetly something to be added, and I'll start out by explaining what it is since while it is thrown around as commonplace today, not many people really understand what it is. 2 factor authentification adds a second layer to the sign in process that makes it significantly harder to log in if you are not the account's holder. After entering the correct password, the application sends a message to the account holder with a second one time use code to log in. This code prevents others from logging in as you. However, this isn't terribly secure as the usual route of sending the message is with a text which can be easily intercepted. Instead, use `Google Authenticator`, which stores the second code in your phone. I won't go into the specific of why this is more secure. Just know that it is. It's an app you can download that will guide you through the process of setting it up. The second code will always be inside that app. When you need to sign in to a computer for the first time, it will ask for the second code. Open the app and type in the second code the phone is currently listing. Note that it changes every 20 seconds, so if you don't have enough time to type it in and hit enter, wait for the timer to reset.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: I would go a step further than the great answer by @Ethan\_Z...
1) Change your Google Password and enable [2-Step verification](https://www.google.com/landing/2step/) and [sign out all other sessions](https://www.quora.com/How-do-you-sign-out-of-Google-on-all-devices)
2) Backup your device
3) Delete all Google accounts from the phone
4) Perform a full factory reset
5) Setup the phone again like a new device and do NOT restore apps automatically from the Play Store during the Setup Wizard unless you absolutely sure what each and every app is
Unless your devices is rooted, this will virtually guarantee that you will no unauthorized person is able to track your device via ADM or other means.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/10/09 | 1,579 | 4,726 | <issue_start>username_0: I was just curious as I don't understand the MTK preloader that much. Considering if a wrong one is flashed, then you are left with unrecoverable brick (correct me if I'm wrong). So, it seemed odd to me that it would be kept in the same flash as other partitions like system, data, cache, etc.
I have tried checking some partitions directly from the phone which seem to indicate that it might be sharing the same flash memory as other partitions, but the scatter files that I have seem to indicate otherwise. I also did some search on XDA Developers, but it left me even more confused.
Any help will be appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: It's present in the **Boot ROM**, not a directly visible partition in the eMMC.
Source: **[MediaTek details: SoC startup](https://sturmflut.github.io/mediatek/2015/07/02/mediatek-details-soc-startup/)**
The Boot ROM will be embedded inside the processor chip in generic chipsets. ([read more](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/15665052/what-is-the-difference-between-a-bootrom-vs-bootloader-on-arm-systems)) (no idea about MTK)
Further Technical details on working of Preloader: **[MediaTek details: Partitions and Preloader](https://sturmflut.github.io/mediatek/2015/07/04/mediatek-details-partitions-and-preloader/)**
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Preloader is most certainly a partition visible in a smart device's partition index/filesystem. This partition is present on virtually every Lenovo device manufactured today. It is not embedded in the processor chip, but rather is located within the eMMC SD internal storage. So to answer your original question, yes, the MTK preloader is in
the same eMMC flashable storage card as /system, /boot, /data, etc.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Preloader is present in eMMC.
`/dev/block/mmcblk0` is located in eMMC as linear `address.mmcblk0` starts with mbr, not including preloader. You can easily check by putting this `mmcblk0` in **eMMC raw tool** and by clicking *Load partition structure* button.
But preloader is located as logical address.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Yes, it is stored on the same storage as the rest of the partitions, except in its own partition. Think of it like three partitions or regions:
1. Boot0: holds your preloader
2. Boot1: from my personal experience, usually holds nothing
3. EMMC: is like an extended partition (a partition that holds more partitions) and holds your system, data, cache, etc.
---
You can use SP Flash Tool to check this yourself by making a readback of the different regions and inspecting them with a hex editor.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: You can buy special dongles or flash boxes such as Infinity CM2 and read the firmware. This way, you will be able to dump the firmware in factory format and do some debugging.
Usually, the preloader file is located in boot0 or recently in Boot1.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: The eMMC has what's called "hardware partitions" or **regions** that the full flash memory pool is divided into by the memory controller.
These regions operate at a lower level than the usual logical/software partitions we're used to, like the ones that might be listed in a [GUID partition table](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GUID_Partition_Table). So when you read from something like `/dev/mmcblk0`, you're already being limited to the **user region**, and won't see the preloader.
What other regions are there? New specs mandate different regions, but on my device there are four: user, rpmb, boot1, and boot2.
The preloader is in boot1 and/or boot2 region. Your system may have it as `/dev/mmcblk0boot0` and `/dev/mmcblk0boot1`.
My boot1 looks like:
```
│00000000 43 4F 4D 42 4F 5F 42 4F 4F 54 00 00 01 00 00 00 │◆│COMBO_BOOT......│
│00000010 00 10 00 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF │▒│................│
```
[Mediatek headers](https://wiki.postmarketos.org/wiki/MediaTek) start at 0x1000:
```
│00001000 4D 4D 4D 01 38 00 00 00 46 49 4C 45 5F 49 4E 46 │▒│MMM.8...FILE_INF│
│00001010 4F 00 00 00 01 00 00 00 01 00 0C 05 10 0F 20 00 │▒│O............. .│
```
And the actual preloader code is just below:
```
│000010F0 00 00 00 00 05 00 00 EA 80 21 10 00 88 DF 10 00 │▒│.........!......│
│00001100 00 00 27 00 A8 65 27 00 00 00 20 00 F0 1D 25 00 │▒│..'..e'... ...%.│
│00001110 C4 61 9F E5 00 40 86 E5 00 00 A0 E3 00 10 A0 E3 │▒│.a...@..........│
│00001120 00 20 A0 E3 00 30 A0 E3 00 40 A0 E3 00 50 A0 E3 │▒│. ...0...@...P..│
```
The boot ROM ("brom") is separate from the preloader and does not exist in writeable flash, but in read-only memory. Its main job is to read the boot0 region from eMMC to RAM, authorize it, and transfer control to it.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/10/09 | 1,472 | 4,220 | <issue_start>username_0: I've tried every thing to remove this.Help!<issue_comment>username_1: It's present in the **Boot ROM**, not a directly visible partition in the eMMC.
Source: **[MediaTek details: SoC startup](https://sturmflut.github.io/mediatek/2015/07/02/mediatek-details-soc-startup/)**
The Boot ROM will be embedded inside the processor chip in generic chipsets. ([read more](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/15665052/what-is-the-difference-between-a-bootrom-vs-bootloader-on-arm-systems)) (no idea about MTK)
Further Technical details on working of Preloader: **[MediaTek details: Partitions and Preloader](https://sturmflut.github.io/mediatek/2015/07/04/mediatek-details-partitions-and-preloader/)**
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Preloader is most certainly a partition visible in a smart device's partition index/filesystem. This partition is present on virtually every Lenovo device manufactured today. It is not embedded in the processor chip, but rather is located within the eMMC SD internal storage. So to answer your original question, yes, the MTK preloader is in
the same eMMC flashable storage card as /system, /boot, /data, etc.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Preloader is present in eMMC.
`/dev/block/mmcblk0` is located in eMMC as linear `address.mmcblk0` starts with mbr, not including preloader. You can easily check by putting this `mmcblk0` in **eMMC raw tool** and by clicking *Load partition structure* button.
But preloader is located as logical address.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Yes, it is stored on the same storage as the rest of the partitions, except in its own partition. Think of it like three partitions or regions:
1. Boot0: holds your preloader
2. Boot1: from my personal experience, usually holds nothing
3. EMMC: is like an extended partition (a partition that holds more partitions) and holds your system, data, cache, etc.
---
You can use SP Flash Tool to check this yourself by making a readback of the different regions and inspecting them with a hex editor.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: You can buy special dongles or flash boxes such as Infinity CM2 and read the firmware. This way, you will be able to dump the firmware in factory format and do some debugging.
Usually, the preloader file is located in boot0 or recently in Boot1.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: The eMMC has what's called "hardware partitions" or **regions** that the full flash memory pool is divided into by the memory controller.
These regions operate at a lower level than the usual logical/software partitions we're used to, like the ones that might be listed in a [GUID partition table](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GUID_Partition_Table). So when you read from something like `/dev/mmcblk0`, you're already being limited to the **user region**, and won't see the preloader.
What other regions are there? New specs mandate different regions, but on my device there are four: user, rpmb, boot1, and boot2.
The preloader is in boot1 and/or boot2 region. Your system may have it as `/dev/mmcblk0boot0` and `/dev/mmcblk0boot1`.
My boot1 looks like:
```
│00000000 43 4F 4D 42 4F 5F 42 4F 4F 54 00 00 01 00 00 00 │◆│COMBO_BOOT......│
│00000010 00 10 00 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF │▒│................│
```
[Mediatek headers](https://wiki.postmarketos.org/wiki/MediaTek) start at 0x1000:
```
│00001000 4D 4D 4D 01 38 00 00 00 46 49 4C 45 5F 49 4E 46 │▒│MMM.8...FILE_INF│
│00001010 4F 00 00 00 01 00 00 00 01 00 0C 05 10 0F 20 00 │▒│O............. .│
```
And the actual preloader code is just below:
```
│000010F0 00 00 00 00 05 00 00 EA 80 21 10 00 88 DF 10 00 │▒│.........!......│
│00001100 00 00 27 00 A8 65 27 00 00 00 20 00 F0 1D 25 00 │▒│..'..e'... ...%.│
│00001110 C4 61 9F E5 00 40 86 E5 00 00 A0 E3 00 10 A0 E3 │▒│.a...@..........│
│00001120 00 20 A0 E3 00 30 A0 E3 00 40 A0 E3 00 50 A0 E3 │▒│. ...0...@...P..│
```
The boot ROM ("brom") is separate from the preloader and does not exist in writeable flash, but in read-only memory. Its main job is to read the boot0 region from eMMC to RAM, authorize it, and transfer control to it.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/10/10 | 362 | 1,426 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an issue with the `LG G5`. I bought it like 3 weeks ago and used it very carefully. Now just while using the `fingerprint scanner` went away. it said restart the phone. After restart even the `option` is gone.
The same issue is reported here as well but no solution:
<http://forums.androidcentral.com/lg-g5/683019-fingerprint-options-missing.html>
Can anyone help me please?
Thanks<issue_comment>username_1: So here is how solved it:
`I returned the product and got my money back! This issue is for real as a lot of ppl have reported it`
The power button will soon stop working btw as its actually the whole fingerprint+power button that is low quality!
It only costs like 10 bucks on ebay but LG couldnt get a quality one!!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Turn your phone off. Hold down the volume button then hold down the power button along with it until a bar code appears on your screen. Restart your phone and the fingerprint option should be back. Do it twice if it didn't work tge first time.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I have checked all forums for a way to fix my lg G5 fingerprint option that just dissapeared, i came across something, if you go into settings>general>lock screen>choose "none" exit and reset your phone once it starts up go back to settings>lock screen> and miraculously you should be able to activate your fingerprint option again
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/10/10 | 680 | 2,413 | <issue_start>username_0: I have already re-installed the google app, factory reset my phone, but I still can't find more options fron the 'Ok Google detection' page.
This is what I see:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aRGpP.jpg)
Click image for larger version
My Phone: Sony Xperia C3 Dual
Android version: 5.1.1 (lollipop)<issue_comment>username_1: Please update your default System language as English(US). It must work as Ok Google now supports only that. Go through this link ["OK Google from any screen missing!"](https://productforums.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/websearch/xGiV6D4PMS8)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Not all phones support hotword detection being on all the time (i.e. "OK Google" from any screen). The phone needs a lower-power co-processor, to avoid running down the battery by keeping the processor running at full power all the time just processing sounds. It's up to the system integrator (the people who compile Android for the phone) to set whether this option is enabled or not. [From other users' reports on Google Product Forums](https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/websearch/GQZIgwPVU6A), it *looks like* the Xperia C3 doesn't support this, and Sony removed it in the update to Lollipop.
Most likely you could get this working with a custom ROM, but the cost would be that it would run down your battery - which is presumably why Sony removed the functionality in the first place.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: You could flash OpenGApps nano over stock ROM, but it made Play services force close.
So, I tried flashing [deodexed stock ROM](https://mega.nz/#!thNXGZpJ!XbpF4Tr5Mx72wsQrHfom7USrr6T0sKpzsjBq5dTfmdc) and flashed OpenGApps over it, it worked.
*which means it doesn't require a custom ROM.*
Since you have Xperia C3 **DUAL** you should flash [this patch](http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3892287&d=1475393819) after deodex ROM.
To install a custom recovery without having to format your phone you can root using KingRoot and install *my modified* XZLockedDualRecovery and you can then flash SuperSU through recovery.
Using KingRoot and XZLDR installers requires enabling USB Debugging from developer options.
Sorry can't post more than two links.
For further instructions message me on fb.com/megaahmadf
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/10 | 714 | 2,597 | <issue_start>username_0: Suppose I had this conversation with someone on WhatsApp, consisting of several messages going back-and-forth. Now, I would like to forward that exchange to someone else...
1. on WhatsApp
2. via a plain-textu representation (which still makes it clear who says what, and isn't just a concatenation of the text)
3. via some reasonable structural represntation, doesn't matter exavtly which (e.g. XML, HTML, markdown, RDF, email-like quoting etc.)
Which of these options is feasible, and how?
PS - I use a Doogee X5 phone with Android 5.1, in case it matters.<issue_comment>username_1: Please update your default System language as English(US). It must work as Ok Google now supports only that. Go through this link ["OK Google from any screen missing!"](https://productforums.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/websearch/xGiV6D4PMS8)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Not all phones support hotword detection being on all the time (i.e. "OK Google" from any screen). The phone needs a lower-power co-processor, to avoid running down the battery by keeping the processor running at full power all the time just processing sounds. It's up to the system integrator (the people who compile Android for the phone) to set whether this option is enabled or not. [From other users' reports on Google Product Forums](https://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/websearch/GQZIgwPVU6A), it *looks like* the Xperia C3 doesn't support this, and Sony removed it in the update to Lollipop.
Most likely you could get this working with a custom ROM, but the cost would be that it would run down your battery - which is presumably why Sony removed the functionality in the first place.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: You could flash OpenGApps nano over stock ROM, but it made Play services force close.
So, I tried flashing [deodexed stock ROM](https://mega.nz/#!thNXGZpJ!XbpF4Tr5Mx72wsQrHfom7USrr6T0sKpzsjBq5dTfmdc) and flashed OpenGApps over it, it worked.
*which means it doesn't require a custom ROM.*
Since you have Xperia C3 **DUAL** you should flash [this patch](http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3892287&d=1475393819) after deodex ROM.
To install a custom recovery without having to format your phone you can root using KingRoot and install *my modified* XZLockedDualRecovery and you can then flash SuperSU through recovery.
Using KingRoot and XZLDR installers requires enabling USB Debugging from developer options.
Sorry can't post more than two links.
For further instructions message me on fb.com/megaahmadf
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/10 | 468 | 1,663 | <issue_start>username_0: When the Pixel C was released, we were told that [it does not support HDMI-out over its USB-C port, but that it might be enabled later](http://www.computerworld.com/article/3012782/tablets/pixel-c-deep-dive-review-a-terrific-tablet-that-tries-to-be-more.html).
However, on Google's own store, they offer [a USB-C to HDMI adapter](https://store.google.com/product/usb_type_c_to_hdmi_adapter), and the page indicates that you can "enjoy it" with the Pixel C.
So... does anyone know if the Pixel C got the update to support HDMI-out or not?<issue_comment>username_1: **It doesn't; none of the Pixel devices support - it's a Google Store goof up**
* I was helping a friend on the purchase decision of Pixel XL and lack of USB C - HDMI was a major drawback. Just to confirm we contacted Google support and they confirmed it doesn't support HDMI
* Seeing your question, I contacted them again, since there are plenty of references to *lack* of support and only Google Store confirming it supports, which is an oddity. They verbally confirmed that it is a Store site issue and followed up on mail, confirming that they are working on fixing the error. Screenshot below
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7KgzY.jpg)
You may also wish to confirm by calling them up from the *contact us* on the store web site
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I know this is a bit old now but just stumbled upon this thread. I have tried the USB-C to displayport cable with my pixel C (after seeing "Enjoy it with Pixel C" on the google store) and it doesn't work.
Upvotes: 3 |
2016/10/11 | 393 | 1,576 | <issue_start>username_0: I keep getting this dialog that says "Screen Overlay detected" that basically tells me to turn of the screen overlay in order to proceed with the change in the permission settings of the apps. I have gone to settings and turned off all of the screen overlays but I keep getting this problem.
I would really love it if anyone could help me by telling me what to do so I can be able to make changes in the permission of my apps! Please Help!
Thank you.<issue_comment>username_1: **It doesn't; none of the Pixel devices support - it's a Google Store goof up**
* I was helping a friend on the purchase decision of Pixel XL and lack of USB C - HDMI was a major drawback. Just to confirm we contacted Google support and they confirmed it doesn't support HDMI
* Seeing your question, I contacted them again, since there are plenty of references to *lack* of support and only Google Store confirming it supports, which is an oddity. They verbally confirmed that it is a Store site issue and followed up on mail, confirming that they are working on fixing the error. Screenshot below
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7KgzY.jpg)
You may also wish to confirm by calling them up from the *contact us* on the store web site
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I know this is a bit old now but just stumbled upon this thread. I have tried the USB-C to displayport cable with my pixel C (after seeing "Enjoy it with Pixel C" on the google store) and it doesn't work.
Upvotes: 3 |
2016/10/11 | 365 | 1,504 | <issue_start>username_0: On my phone, a OnePlus 3 running Marshmallow, I have Titanium Backup configured to run automatic backups twice a week. When it runs, it gets stuck. The notification displays "Skipping 96% - Wi-Fi access points." This notification sticks around until I force quit Titanium Backup or reboot the phone, and I presume that the backup never completes.
Google searches have revealed nothing that appears relevant. Any ideas what's wrong?<issue_comment>username_1: You need to create a filter to exclude the 2 WiFi Access Points.
In Titanium Backup, Goto Menu > Filters (under General) > Create Label (At the bottom right) > Add/Remove elements > Select all and then Uncheck the 2 WiFi Access Points at the bottom of list and Save (check mark at top right)
Click Load/Save filter to save it as a filter
In scheduled backups, edit and select the Filter name and save
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Had the same problem (on CM13 after an upgrade from CM12), exactly as you wrote.
When I first ran TB, I refused it the right to turn Wi-Fi on/off (in Privacy Guard). When I granted TB this right again, backup of the Wi-Fi access point data worked fine.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Just had this issue... Opening the shade menu (or the notification drawer, or the pull-down settings page, or some other name...) and disabling WiFi forced Titanium Backup to re-ask about permission to disable/enable WiFi. Granting it seems to of permanently solved the issue.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/12 | 172 | 684 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Mobicel Matrix. After some time using it the screen does not respond to touch. After i click on power it lights up and asks me to draw my pattern, but nothing happens as i draw it, then it goes back to sleep.
I tried a hard factory reset but i'm stuck at clicking the Options/Menu touch button [=] as it does nothing.
Please Help.<issue_comment>username_1: Try removing the battery aside for a while, reinsert it and try again. If that doesn't work, it's probably an issue with the touch screen.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: If your usb debug is activated you can use ADB commandes to rest you phone ( adb reboot-bootloader )
Upvotes: -1 |
2016/10/12 | 142 | 511 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to know if Hisilcon Kirin 650 is a heterogenous or a homogenous processor!!
(working all 8 cores or 4 by 4, not in the same time )
Please answer to my question !!<issue_comment>username_1: Try removing the battery aside for a while, reinsert it and try again. If that doesn't work, it's probably an issue with the touch screen.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: If your usb debug is activated you can use ADB commandes to rest you phone ( adb reboot-bootloader )
Upvotes: -1 |
2016/10/12 | 605 | 2,260 | <issue_start>username_0: One of the main Google Calendar's functions is to remind people their events, with a scheduled sound alarm. The problem is that this sound, [I know how to change it](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/109447/how-can-i-get-google-calendar-to-play-a-sound-notification-for-an-event), only lasts for 1 second, so I don't hear it. Instead, when they call me, the sound lasts for very long until they hang up the phone, so I realize I'm being called. I would like if the alarm sound lasted longer, how to do it?
By the way, I have the same problem with Google Keep reminders.
I imagine some people like short sounds because they don't want to get disturbed, and they probably get reminded when they check their phones and see the notification. I want to know if it's possible to make it work like I specified, a longer loud sound like a call.<issue_comment>username_1: Go to "My Files" and then copy any MP3 or sounds that sound longer to be your reminder. Then go to "device storage", look for the "notifications" folder, and paste it there.
Now, go to your S-Planner and open "Settings". Now, you'll see your MP3 as the choice in the notifications tone options. Now, you can have a longer reminder tone.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I am using Xiaomi's Redmi Note 7 and even *after multiple attempts* I could not implement [username_1's answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/175635/44325) since it is not allowed by MIUI.
I had to settle with having another app that rings an alarm according to my Google Calendar.
'**Event Alarm Reminder for Google Calendar**' by <NAME> syncs with Google Calendar and rings an alarm that lasts longer (can be customized).
This is the only app that worked well with MIUI for me. Added bonus is that it has a decent-looking UI.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I have both Google Calendar and Samsung Calendar installed. They seem to coexist fine, and Samsung Calendar has what you need:
Go to Settings > Calendar Settings > Alert style and set it to "Strong". You can then customise the sound, but you have a large choice of long and loud alert sounds.
It's pretty simple but you can also see it here:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6Q5cAo8ezw>
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/13 | 362 | 1,425 | <issue_start>username_0: I already use the Android Gmail app. I installed Google Inbox and was receiving double notifications. Inbox offered to stop receiving Gmail app notifications. I agreed to this.
Then, I no longer wanted Google Inbox so I uninstalled it. Gmail notifications did not turn back on. I checked settings, apps, Gmail, notifications checkbox (yes), but still no Gmail notifications.<issue_comment>username_1: Settings - Accounts - select Google - make sure sync for Gmail is turned on.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Go to settings > <EMAIL> > Notificatons > select All
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: For android 7.0
1. Go to "Settings" icon in the top right corner.
2. Select "Notifications".
3. Click on the Gmail icon.
4. Click on the Info icon (looks like i).
5. Click on your account (most likely your email address).
6. Click on "Notifications" and select "All"
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: So all of the above options definitely work. However, this is the only thing that worked for me.
Go to Settings > Apps > click the top-right corner and select "Special access" > Optimize battery usage > then where it says "Optimized apps", click that and select "All apps". Scroll down until you find Gmail and make sure it is turned OFF.
As soon as I shut mine off, I instantly received at least 20 emails on both of my Gmail accounts. Hope this helps somebody.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/10/13 | 1,696 | 6,085 | <issue_start>username_0: So, yeah. I told a friend I would root his phone for him... and I went and soft-bricked it. Haven't told him yet, because I'm hoping I can fix it before long, but I'm running out of options (and time).
**Side note:**
I followed this guide when trying to root:
www.reddit.com/r/MotoG/comments/22mimr/the\_guide\_to\_rooting\_the\_motog\_with\_a\_howto/
and got until unlocking the bootloader when I realized that instead of being a guide for the Moto G4, it was a guide for the Moto G on android 4.x.x.
So I did flash the wrong logo.bin, but hopefully that was the only issue created there. I got the correct one elsewhere and all was working fine.
**End side note**
So I moved to how-to-geek's tutorial here:
<http://www.howtogeek.com/115297/how-to-root-your-android-why-you-might-want-to/>
I got twrp installed, booted in recovery and loaded SuperSU (version below)
SR1-SuperSU-v2.78-SR1-20160915123031
Now it's softbricked. Kind of just hangs on the boot screen.
I can get into the bootloader and twrp, but that's about all I can do at the moment. I've tried reseting the cache and dalvik cache, and have tried formatting the device with no luck.
My next step is that I'm installing vanilla firmware from:
<http://rootjunkysdl.com/files/?dir=Moto%20G%204th%20Gen%20XT1625>
and I plan to try to flash that when It's all done. I'm unsure if that's safe, but don't have many other options.
If you know *anything* I can try, please reply. Any help is *greatly* appreciated<issue_comment>username_1: Proper research would have prevented this, in the future if you need information on rooting a device, go to a REPUTABLE source like XDA or a similar forum and make sure the information is specific to your device AND the current Android version. Lollipop, Marshmallow, and now Nougat are changing the way rooting is being done.
All retail/unlocked Moto devices running Marshmallow have an extra step that is required when flashing to force a systemless root installation by the SuperSU install script.
After successfully flashing TWRP and booting it, go to `Advanced` - `Terminal` and enter:
```
echo SYSTEMLESS=true>>/data/.supersu
```
And press Enter, then exit. The spelling and spacing must be exact or it won't work. Then go to the main menu of TWRP and flash SuperSU normally, you should see the script specifically state it is doing a systemless install and patch the boot image (and in your case, cleanup an old standard root installation).
* [Source](http://forum.xda-developers.com/moto-g4/how-to/how-to-root-g4-fix-bootable-attempted-t3417592)
Please use only the referenced version from my thread (yes, I am the original author of that source thread), they are tested and working to both root the device, and cleanup a failed root.
Be aware on the first boot after this procedure, the device will boot loop twice, do not be concerned, this is normal, then it will boot normally after that.
And since you did not do a nandroid backup before rooting (shakes head), you may need to flash back to stock via fastboot before this procedure will work. The image for your device is available [here](https://motorola-global-portal.custhelp.com/app/standalone/bootloader/recovery-images). Remember that you cannot flash this in TWRP, you MUST flash each partition manually with fastboot and this will return the device to out of the box condition.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Be aware: The Amazon lockscreen ads & bloatware on the Moto G4 (XT1625) can NOT be removed. Nor can the phone be rooted.
It is possible to unlock the bootloader, and TWRP can be loaded, either in RAM (temporarily) or flash (non-volatile). But the additional SuperSU.zip root package can NOT be loaded, doing so will soft-brick the phone.
After the soft-brick, I was able to reload a Motorola XT1625 factory image on it, after which all the Amazon stuff and associated lockscreen ads are actually gone. However, the phone will then keep pestering you about downloading the latest "system update". When you agree to that, all the Amazon stuff will be back (while still being the same Marshmallow V6.01 version as before the update). When you don't agree to the system upgrade, it will pester you for the update from here to eternity, which is actually even worse torture than the lockscreen ads.
To top it all off: The update message nag can NOT be removed.
So my end conclusion about this phone, after having worked on this for several days with just about every method tried as described on the internet, is that this phone can NOT be de-Amazoned. At least not with the methods as they are known today.
The problem seems to be in the update software channel which is set for “AMZ”. This causes system updates forced on the phone to be of the Amazon kind. The only way to fix that is to get the software channel setting set for a generic code. However, there is no working method available on the internet today to accomplish that, believe me.
So to summarize: Spend the extra $50 and get the generic G4 model without the advertising crap. That is what I have done now; I have returned it and successively bought the ad-free version for $50 more. Because that is the good news: The Moto G4 X1625 is a VERY good phone, it is worth the extra $50.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Exactly the same thing happened to me, didn't backup and everything just like you. I realized that the rooting `SYSTEM LESS` root guide I was following did not work for Android 7.
I was following this guide here that did not specified to make sure you are in Android 6 before rooting. Everything worked except the rooting part where I got soft bricked. [Link to Install TWRP in Moto G4](https://devs-lab.com/how-to-root-moto-g4-moto-g4-plus.html#How_to_Install_TWRP_Recovery_in_Motorola_Moto_G4_Plus)
If you managed to install TWRP you can follow this guide here [XDA Moto G4](https://forum.xda-developers.com/moto-g4-plus/development/rom-npjs25-93-14-4-deodexed-debloated-t3587180)
I was able to unbrick my phone, moto g4 XT1625
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/14 | 800 | 2,509 | <issue_start>username_0: Why would I get permission denied using adb to copy a directory to a subdirectory on my phone, when I could copy to its parent directory and both have the same permission?
I tried this from my PC to my Nexus 5 running 6.0.1 (Oct 5):
```
adb push Dir /sdcard/Dir/Subdir
```
It failed with
```
Permission denied
```
This has worked before, with no changes I'm aware of.
I launched adb shell and ran
```
ls -l
```
to get permissions for /sdcard (storage/emulated/0), /sdcard/Dir and /sdcard/Dir/Subdir:
```
drwxrwx--x root sdcard_rw
```
I then:
```
cd /sdcard/Dir/Subdir
mkdir XYZ
```
Got
```
mdkdir: XYZ: Permission Denied
```
Tried:
```
su
mkdir XYZ
```
Again, permission denied
I then tried another push
```
adb push XYZ /sdcard/Dir
```
This worked and copied all of the files.
Why would it work to /sdcard/Dir and not to /sdcard/Dir/Subdir, when both have the same permissions? Why would permission be denied for root?<issue_comment>username_1: As it appears in [this comment](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/159953/adb-permission-denied-to-push-files-to-subdirectry#comment204615_159953), the file permissions and access control to SubDir differs from what ideally should be.
The problem:
```
# ls -l on /data/media/0/Dir
dwrxrwxr-x root root
```
The user group should have been *media\_rw* instead of *root*.
The solution is to change to appropriate group or make the directory writable by others.
```
chmod 777 /data/media/0/Dir/SubDir # making SubDir writable by others
chgrp media_rw /data/media/0/Dir/SubDir # Alternatively, changing group from root to media_rw
```
**Note:** you may need to install Busybox or Toybox to have and use chmod and/or chgrp.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: There's a similar problem reported in [adb push ... Permission denied](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/110162/adb-push-permission-denied) where I ended up pushing the file to `/sdcard/` and then used `adb shell` to then copy the file to the sub-directory I needed it to be in.
For completeness:
Let's assume I have an expansion file `test.obb` file I want to install on a local physical Android device, and my package name of the app is `app.example.test`.
I pushed the file using `adb push` e.g.
`adb push test.obb /sdcard/`
`adb shell`
```
cd /sdcard/Android/obb/app.example.test/
cp /sdcard/test.obb .
ls -la
```
I can now see the obb file is in the folder it needs to be in.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/14 | 829 | 3,533 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to have a bookmark shortcut on my Home screen to launch a web app I use regularly. The only way I found to achieve this is using the **Add to Home screen** from the Chrome browser menu when I'm on the site. However, this does not let me edit the actual URL the bookmark will point to.
This is a problem because said web app automatically appends the current date to the end of the URL when it's loaded. When I add the shortcut to the Home screen, the link will then actually open the app to display data from the day on which I created the shortcut. I'll always have to open the date picker and navigate to the current date to start using the app.
I'd like to edit the Home screen bookmark shortcut's URL to remove the date added to its end, so it always opens to the current day. Can I achieve this without third-party software?
I'm using an unrooted Sony Xperia Z5 Compact running Android 6.0.1.
* Some sources say to create a standard bookmark in Chrome, where the URL can be edited, then long-press it in the bookmarks manager and choose to add it to the home screen from the context menu. This context menu entry does not appear to exist anymore in current versions of Chrome.
* Some sources say to look for a Bookmarks widget that allows to choose a Chrome bookmark to display. This widget doesn't appear to exist anymore in Android 6. The only bookmarks widget I have displays the entire bookmarks folder.
* The website in question loads too quickly for me to be able to cancel before the URL is modified. I tried many times.<issue_comment>username_1: I havent been able to find an intuitive way to modify a desktop shortcut's URL, but I have found a workaround for the problem.
* Put your phone in airplane mode and disable WiFi to turn off all internet access
* Open the Chrome browser
* Type in the URL you are trying to set a shortcut for
* Press enter and the browser will alert you that you are currently in an offline status
* On Chrome, click the settings (hamburger) button
* select add to desktop
You will now have a shortcut on your desktop that refelcts the URL that you have just entered into Chrome
Turn off airplane mode and you're golden.
This applies to Android Marshmallow 6.x as well as Nougat 7.x. It may also apply to older versions as well
Upvotes: 7 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Okay, this was my solution for Firefox haha:
Search online for a link shortener. (Edit: The one I linked previously is no longer active.)
Use it to create a link, then press and hold on the link to open a drop down and create a bookmark from that. Then, you can press and hold that bookmark and click "Add Page Shortcut".
---
Now that I did this, I think another solution would be to bookmark the wrong URL and then just edit the bookmark and repeat the "Add Page Shortcut" action above.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Inspired by the airplane mode by @username_1, the following is my way.
Add any URL you like to home screen
-----------------------------------
Turn on airplane mode, type in your desired URL in your browser, and add to home screen.
In this way no redirection happens and the url is intact.
Check (original) URL of a home screen bookmark
----------------------------------------------
Turn on airplane mode, which prevents redirection. Then connect your phone with your computer via a USB cable. Run browser on the computer and turn on USB debugging. The USB debugging page shows the URL of opened pages on your phone.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/10/15 | 172 | 574 | <issue_start>username_0: I use pattern lock on my Lenovo A7700 running Android 6.0 Marshmallow, but today I forget my pattern.
How can I unlock my phone?<issue_comment>username_1: You'll need to perform a hard reset, but this will remove all your personal data. You could have a look [here](http://www.hardreset.info/devices/lenovo/lenovo-a7000/)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: There is a way to keep data, but you have to install a custom recovery.
Refer: <https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/software-hacking/remove-lockscreen-recovery-t3530008>
Upvotes: -1 |
2016/10/15 | 449 | 1,362 | <issue_start>username_0: I was re-ordering objects on the quick settings When I noticed two icons that I do not recognise:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iMr9fm.jpg)
To clarify, it's `HotKnot` and `BroadCastTile` That I am questioning.
Whats odder is that they are **not** in the Quick settings menu (Even if I add them)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dpSlrm.jpg)
What are they for, and how can I use them?<issue_comment>username_1: HotKnot is a kind of wireless communication like Bluetooth or NFC.
BroadcastTile is for creating your custom Quick Setting. See [here](https://medium.com/@kcoppock/android-m-what-s-that-broadcast-tile-for-d1cd3a477a5f#.8r6ozdnft).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: `HotKnot` - The technology allows the capacitive touchscreens of smartphones to interact – a feature that can be used for quick data transfer/sharing, in a similar way to NFC.
Source: [link](https://blog.chinavasion.com/index.php/34848/what-is-hot-knot-and-how-to-use-it/)
`BroadCastTile` - It is just a customizable tile, you can add a custom tile if you know the constraints.
Source: [link](https://medium.com/@kcoppock/android-m-what-s-that-broadcast-tile-for-d1cd3a477a5f#.n3oelvatq)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2016/10/15 | 515 | 2,228 | <issue_start>username_0: My car has Bluetooth for making / receiving calls. It also allows media playback if I switch to Bluetooth instead of USB. I use my phone for sat nav so I'd like to be able to hear the audio telling me which direction to go and of any traffic problems. The issue is that it routes that audio to the car and I can only hear it if I switch the stereo to Bluetooth media, as if I was going to play songs from the phone. That means I either can't listen to music on my USB or I can't hear the sat nav. Is there a way to get my phone to play the audio back through its speakers in n steal of through the Bluetooth but still allow phone calls through Bluetooth?<issue_comment>username_1: This seems to be the setting -- go to Maps' Settings (tap the three lines in the left top corner to open a pane, then tap Settings there), there go to "Navigation Settings" and turn off "Play voice over Bluetooth" switch.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: On my Samsung Galaxy S4 (Lollipop) using Samsung Music (recently updated, but this was the case when I bought the car, before the Lollipop update, and immediately after that update as well), with a 2015 Ford Fiesta (basic Sync Bluetooth audio and controls), this is the default. When I'm playing music, either Verizon Navigator or Google Maps directions (if set to give voice directions) pauses music playback to speak through the car's sound system. Even if I'm listening to FM radio, the broadcast is interrupted for directions. If I'm on a phone call, the directions voice is mixed, much softer than the voice of the person I'm speaking to (but still there).
Other phone initiated sounds (notification, for instance) also pause music, though keyboard sounds don't. Car initiated sounds (low fuel warning, service required warning) pause playback as well.
If this isn't happening with your phone and your car's Bluetooth, I'd start with checking your phone's general settings, then those of your navigation app, and finally those of your car's Bluetooth and sound system. It's got to be in there somewhere.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Go to Bluetooth settings, click on the gear icon beside the car name, uncheck audio.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/15 | 468 | 1,901 | <issue_start>username_0: I am using moto g4 plus, Im trying to connect my moto with ma laptop through. My phone got latest android 7.0 update but now also same issue is there. Please suggest some way.
**USB** but its not getting connected.This allow me to charge through the usb. But im tried the most of the method to connect .Please anybody can help me ..
I am also an android developer so my phone allow me to connect with android studio and deploy the app in my phone but it not allowing me to explore the folders on sd card or phone memory through explorer.<issue_comment>username_1: Do you have drivers installed? Check for MTP USB drivers.
Also you may need to have a look [here](http://support.bell.ca/Mobility/Smartphones_and_mobile_internet/Motorola-Moto-G.how_to_change_the_usb_connection_options_on_my)
As your phone only shows photo, it's because the USB settings is set to PTP.
To see phone content on PC, pull down notification bar on phone when phone is connected and switch from PTP to MTP mode.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Try this. First turn on developer options. To do this open settings and locate the 'about phone' and tap this then scroll to build and tap this 7 times then click the back button and go back to settings. With your phone connected to the computer locate 'Developer options' and tap it. From here scroll down to 'Select USB Configuration' and tap it. Tap 'MTP(Media Transfer Protocol)' even though it may already be selected. This should automatically open the dialog box on the computer with the phone's drive listed.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: My MotoG4 loses its USB Brains all the time.
Developer Options>Select USB Configuration.
Even though its already set top MTP (media Transfer Protocol) it really isnt. Toggle the USB Configuration to PTP and back to MTP a couple of times that usually fixes it.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/15 | 654 | 2,280 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Sony Xperia Z3 Compact and I am trying to install Cyanogenmod 12.1.
I followed [the guide](https://wiki.cyanogenmod.org/w/Install_CM_for_z3c) on the Cyanogenmod Wiki for my device.
The process went smoothly initially but it fails at 40-50% completion with the message: "Install failed. Can't install this package on top of incompatible data.....E:Failed to install /sideload/package.zip..."
I've tried:
* Performing a factory reset
* Flashing an older version of Cyanogenmod
But I receive the same message when I try to flash.
When I restart the phone, it hangs indefinitely on the Sony loading screen and doesn't boot.
**How can I resolve this issue and successfully flash Cyanogenmod?**
EDIT:
I installed TWRP 3.0.2.1 and it start to reboot the phone in loop, but I manage to install 3.0.2.0 version. I was trying this time to install from usb memory, but it faild to error 7:
<https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx_77SKdWXozZ1NVUDIwOEFSZGM>
I manage to get terminal open and I found out that I have linux version 3.4.0-cm-g28a6663<issue_comment>username_1: Usually just wiping /data from the recovery and/or installing the package again *immediately* after first failure should get you through.
However if it doesn't, then you might want to ditch Cyanogen Recovery (that comes with the boot.img you flashed) and use TWRP. Find some [here](http://forum.xda-developers.com/z3-compact/development) at XDA-Developers - basically any one that integrates TWRP should work, because you will be substituting it with CM's boot.img later when flashing, but it's advised that you choose one that's built for the same Android version you were on before flashing.
This sounds a bit hard to swallow and it is, but it's essential flashing skills and you will need it. With TWRP you can also put the package in internal storage and flash it from there, instead of relying on your PC to do a sideload.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I don't know should I delete this message or answer to it, but I got it solved. I had to install elder version of CM12.1(20160918) and I got it to install with TWRP( Which is pretty nice bootloader). Then in the android I just updated the software to newer one and it works now.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2016/10/15 | 793 | 2,848 | <issue_start>username_0: When I connect the internet and open any app, a pop-up ad appears randomly.
Ads are still showing, although I did factory reset the phone (all installed apps removed) as well. I also tried to remove the malware app with Avast. Avast detected the issue as well. But couldn't able to remove as well. I uninstalled the malware app which Avast detected. The malware apps installed automatically with another name after uninstalling it.
How can I get rid of that annoying issue?
Some screenshots of that issue have attached here.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WbIDR.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Jhhk5.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: If you have **root** your phone you could use **AdAway** app, that blocks most of the ads
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Your phone is infected by malwares. If you check your app list, you'll notice that there are unusual apps with sometimes weird names.
To get rid of that, all you have is to uninstall them. There is two methods:
*DISCLAIMER: Do it at your own risk, I won't be held responsible if anything goes wrong.*
1. First the root method: You have to root your phone and then using adb shell, uninstall the apps - a bit tricky and risky as well. You need to install ADB server on your PC (search for Minimal ADB and Fastboot).
Open it and tape the following:
`adb shell`
```
`su`
`mount -o remount, rw /system`
`cd /system/app`
`ls (this list all apps on your phone)`
```
Then:
```
rm "app_name"
```
*You must tape the exact app name + .apk or .odex*
Do this to all unwanted apps.
You may encounter with apps that can't be removed (operation not permitted), then you need BusyBox installed (Google for that). just let's know, we'll try to help.
2. The second method, less tricky but always risky, is to download [Debloater](http://forum.xda-developers.com/android/software/debloater-remove-carrier-bloat-t2998294), open the USB debugging mode, connect your phone to your computer. You'll see all the installed applications. Just check those you want to remove.
Et voilà.
DON'T REMOVE AN APP IF YOU'RE NOT SURE ABOUT, YOU MAY BRICK YOUR PHONE.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Since a factory reset didn't fix the issue, the malware responsible for this has embedded itself into the operating system. There is only one solution now. You will have to flash the stock firmware.
Instead of making *another* "how to flash a custom ROM" question, I found an straight forward article that should help you though it.
<http://lifehacker.com/how-to-flash-a-rom-to-your-android-phone-30885281>
The ROM you are flashing is provided by the manufacturer of the phone and you should be able to find it on their website.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2016/10/16 | 1,862 | 7,455 | <issue_start>username_0: I'd like to use the MyPhoneExplorer application to sync my Android smartphone with Windows over USB.
This requires first installing a driver for the phone and the ADB application.
However, the official driver seems only available as part of the Huawei HiSuite bloatware: <http://consumer.huawei.com/minisite/HiSuite_en/index.html>
Can someone confirm that there's simply no official driver from Huawei, and the alternative is either installing that bloatware, or find a non-official (possibly virus-carrying) driver somewhere?
Thank you.<issue_comment>username_1: Ex Honor 6 user
Confirmed. There is no other way except installing Hi Suite or risking unknown driver. Tried unsuccessfully with several trusted *universal drivers*
This is my conclusion after I searched in several forums like XDA, Huawei forums ( trawling is a problem as they are in Chinese and one had to depend on Google translate) and Facebook sites of Huawei users. My search was motivated by unconfirmed posts that HiSuite send user information to its servers- bloatware I could live with. I was left with no option but install HiSuite
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You can install manually the **Google USB driver** that comes with the **SDK** for **Android** developing, it works to use adb on several **Android** phones, when you're in the process to install it, Windows might tell that the driver might not work properly, but it doesn't care.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: As @Gulbahar said, there is no way except installing the HiSuite or relying on unofficial drivers.
What I did and worked was installing HiSuite, restart my pc, and without connecting my phone to HiSuite for privacy concern, uninstalled HiSuite software. Happily when I uninstalled HiSuite it did not uninstalled the driver :).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Here is the [official way](http://consumer.huawei.com/en/support/faqs/detail/index.htm?id=6630) to install the driver. It is suggested to connect the phone as a virtual USB-device and install drivers from it. Worked fine for me.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Drivers are not distributed as standalone package in order to increase market penetration of the HiSuite software. It's quite popular marketing strategy: you can get what you want only in bundle with something you don't actually want, but need to get the primary item is big enough to make you buckle in and get the whole package.
Nevertheless, you can circumvent the bundling yourself:
* download the HiSuite installer.
* open the installer .exe with 7zip and extract its content preserving internal folder structure (a trick that works on most installers)
* find something that looks like the driver
* run/install it, preferably on a disposable system first, to prove it's what you want.
In HiSuite version 5.0.1.300 it was \$\_OUTDIR\Driver\all\DriverSetup.exe. Works with P8 Lite and Mate 7.
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_6: I was looking for those lately, sorry for Golden Shovel award, but if I found this thread then maybe someone else will find this helpful.
Download installer for this HiSuite. Unpack it, like archive (I use 7-zip). It asks for file replace, just 'yes' it (it is because installer format, don't worry). If you order your Windows to look for driver inside this unpacked folder it will find it, but from catalog tree you should know what's what.
Bang, you have driver without installing crapware.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_7: If you just want to directly access your Honor (I've got an Honor 6A) phone, go to "Settings", "About Phone", press 7x "Build Number" - the phone tells you, that "You're now a developer!".
Go to the new "Developer Options", activate "USB Configuration" an choose MTP or PTP. After that I could access the internal phone memory and the SD card directly via Explorer in Windows - without installing HiSuite or any Drivers or something special. Without these steps I only got a HiSuite Installer Option and no access to the phone's memory.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_8: Perhaps it is because my phone is brand new (Nova) but when plugged into windows 10 it asks if for charging or file transfer. If you chose the latter you can access the phone and memory card.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_9: Actually, there is a solution, so follow the guide below:
Step One
1. download "HiSuite" from this link:
<https://consumer.huawei.com/minisite/HiSuite_en/>
2. extract the compressed file then extract "Hisuite\_8.0.1.302\_OVE.exe" file using 7-zip.
Step Two
To install the Android USB driver on Windows 10 for the first time, do the following:
1. Connect your Android device to your computer's USB port.
2. From Windows Explorer, open Computer Management.
3. In the Computer Management left pane, select Device Manager.
4. In the Device Manager right pane, locate and expand Portable Devices or Other Devices, depending on which one you see.
5. Right-click the name of the device you connected, and then select Update Driver Software.
6. In the Hardware Update wizard, select Browse my computer for driver software and click Next.
7. Click Browse and then locate the folder you just extracted from ".exe" file
8. Click Next to install the driver.
Good luck.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_10: Not really an answer to the above question but I found this question when trying to find ways to transfer files without needing HiSuite. I wanted to comment on an existing, related answer but in some step of brilliance on the part of I fail to understand you need less reputation to answer than to comment.
If you just want to access the files go to Settings -> About Phone and tap on the Build No. 7 times. You should get a message (a toast) informing you you're now a developer. Search for enabling developer mode on your phone specifically if you're lost. As username_7 said in his answer you can select the file transfer protocol but in my case I also had to enable USB Debugging for the internal storage to show up in my file manager. Why this isn't default behaviour escapes me.
Hope this helps someone because it stole 40 minutes of my life.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_11: The trick is to make android OS connect you before Hisuite bloatware kicks in.
Go to settings > developer options > under select USB configuration > select MTP. then connect your USB.
When you unplug the USB, Huawei will reset it back to charging, hence forcing you again to use it. so you'll have to change the developer options configuration every time you need to connect your USB. This way worked for me on the EMUI 10.1.0.286
I have a mate 20 pro that have been driving me crazy since the EMUI 10 update. Hisuite is ONE of the issues where Hisuite is forced on us now instead of a regular file transfer. Since I was previously able to connect my phone using USB and use it as storage, or backup, etc. Not anymore.
I did have no choice but to install it and give them a copy of my life, i will email the privacy department and request that they delete my details. That's what their website says to do!!!
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_12: I didn't get it to work so in the end I used [adb tools from google](https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools)
download, unzip, in the unziped folder in the path name: select all and replace with "cmd", hit enter, `adb push C:\folder\yourfile.txt /data/local`
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/16 | 639 | 2,517 | <issue_start>username_0: How do they check it, in order to decide whether the phone is in warranty or not?
I am referring to the majority of the phone manufacturers who void the warranty of their phones 'as soon as they are rooted'.<issue_comment>username_1: Varies as per OEM
* Most devices need bootloader to be unlocked before rooting. OEMs like Motorola insist on a formal request to be made on their website for obtaining boot loader unlock code. The moment you make the request, your warranty is void whether you unlocked the bootloader / rooted or not
**Edit:** Since you own a Motorola device, more details
* When you request for bootloader unlock code, you have to identify your device serial number, which means database is available with service center to check against your serial number. Motorola clearly warns you that requesting for unlock code = rooting, whether you root or not and void warranty
+ If you do unlock bootloader and **do not take** steps to prevent this warning from showing up (involves flashing a custom boot logo file) , this image will show up everytime you boot.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SSaiim.jpg)
* Even if you lock bootloader again by applying a bootloader lock code, in bootloader mode it will show
`DEVICE IS LOCKED. STATUS CODE : 2'
whereas the status code for unlocked devices is `1`
So be *very sure* about unlocking bootloader, the service center guys can easily find out !!
* For Samsung devices it is very easy to read the *Knox* status. If that is tripped, your warranty is void ( exceptions apply in some geographies)
* Some devices display *Modified / Custom* status in the device properties or in diagnostics ( this to Andy for pointing that out)
* It is reasonable to expect that OEMs who void warranty on rooting would have a root status shown in the device diagnostics. Just in case there isn't, they can use [Root Checker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.joeykrim.rootcheck&hl=en) apps, or check using [Terminal Emulator](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/13349). Use of third party apps I guess would be more of an exception, since inbuilt tools would do the job
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Install [Root Checker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.joeykrim.rootcheck) app or connect it to computer and check its firmware.
You can connect it to computer through Mobogenie and check it's root status
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/16 | 424 | 1,642 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm currently using a custom Android 6.0 ROM on my Samsung Galaxy Note 3 SM-N900. I need to put suhide in my device and it need systemless SuperSU to be installed, Google didn't help me at all. Any of you guys know how to?<issue_comment>username_1: Sometimes the need for a systemless installation of SuperSU is not detected by the installation script, to force this to occur follow the following steps.
1. Start TWRP 3.0 or higher on the device
2. Go to Advanced - Terminal
3. In the terminal, enter `echo SYSTEMLESS=true>>/data/.supersu`
4. Press `Enter`
5. Exit to the TWRP main menu
6. Flash the current SuperSU as per normal
When flashing SuperSU, you should see in the TWRP recovery log screen mentions of system-less installation and patching of the boot image.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If you are using stock Android 6 and newer you can only have systemless root because of security restriction. So if you root your phone running stock Android 6, you will have systemless root.
Because you are using a Samsung phone it might be a bit more tricky. It could be that your custom rom has it's own su installation in the system partition. Then it's not systemless. To have a systemless root installation it's required to install su in the boot image. This requires your device's bootloader to allow flashing the boot image.
On most devices you can somehow flash the boot image by unlocking the bootloader.
For more information about what systemless root is have a look [here](http://www.howtogeek.com/249162/what-is-systemless-root-on-android-and-why-is-it-better/).
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2016/10/17 | 1,130 | 2,465 | <issue_start>username_0: When I attempt to connect to my phone via adb it tells me my public key's fingerprint is this:
[](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/25625571/read-the-computers-rsa-key-fingerprint-from-andorid)
But on my computer, [per this post](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/25625571/read-the-computers-rsa-key-fingerprint-from-andorid), my public key's fingerprint is
```
will@linux:~$ awk '{print $1}' < ~/.android/adbkey.pub | openssl base64 -A -d -a | openssl md5 -c
(stdin)= 3c:be:86:c7:68:f4:36:7f:f9:d7:29:92:2d:d0:3b:0d
```
which is different, and also much shorter than the fingerprint displayed on the phone (32 characters long vs 64 for the one displayed on the phone). Does android now use a different method of generating the fingerprint than the one in the linked thread?
I'm running android 5.0.1 with adb 1.0.36, revison 7.0.0\_r1.
This is the full public key for reference:
>
> <KEY>
> will@linux
>
>
><issue_comment>username_1: Check the user ID you run your `adb` server under. If it's different from `will` - you would need to compare your fingerprint with the key in that other user's home dir.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: With try-and-error (actually on first attempt, which shows it was not pure lack): your fingerprint shown on android device is one that can be created using `sha256` hash-function, that is `awk '{print $1}' < ~/.android/adbkey.pub | openssl base64 -A -d -a | openssl sha256 -c`.
Adb enhanced security (`sha256` much better and modern than `md5`).
```
$ cat test.pub | openssl base64 -A -d -a |openssl sha256 -c
(stdin)= bc:67:e2:fc:24:0b:69:17:c2:34:cd:16:49:0d:8a:f0:af:d7:28:1a:1e:75:6c:d0:20:65:1f:77:94:a5:0a:53
```
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/10/18 | 430 | 1,311 | <issue_start>username_0: I am downloading the file in PC browser so I can easily capture the download link by entering into Downloads Tab & click "copy link address"
In Android, I know by long press on **Download button**, it gives menu so I can use "copy link address" to capture the address.
but **not all sites** display download address in Download tab, I mean **Link address of download button & downloading file are not same**.
so How to capture downloading address in androids OS?
Android OS is 4.2.2
Browser: chrome 30.0.1599.82<issue_comment>username_1: Check the user ID you run your `adb` server under. If it's different from `will` - you would need to compare your fingerprint with the key in that other user's home dir.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: With try-and-error (actually on first attempt, which shows it was not pure lack): your fingerprint shown on android device is one that can be created using `sha256` hash-function, that is `awk '{print $1}' < ~/.android/adbkey.pub | openssl base64 -A -d -a | openssl sha256 -c`.
Adb enhanced security (`sha256` much better and modern than `md5`).
```
$ cat test.pub | openssl base64 -A -d -a |openssl sha256 -c
(stdin)= bc:67:e2:fc:24:0b:69:17:c2:34:cd:16:49:0d:8a:f0:af:d7:28:1a:1e:75:6c:d0:20:65:1f:77:94:a5:0a:53
```
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/10/18 | 589 | 2,063 | <issue_start>username_0: A can of worms were opened all because I was logged out of Snapchat. I got new a phone about a month ago called the Samsung Galaxy A9 Pro. It was only sold in China and Hong Kong. When I got it it worked like anyone other Android phone, but it came with root already on it with some program called Team Win Resource Project. After discovering it had root, I got some rooted apps for it. Then, a friend wanted to log on Snapchat so he logged me out but he couldn't log on. I tried to log on and it still wouldn't work. Eventually I discovered I couldn't log on because I modified the root folder. So I tried to unroot it with SuperSU and that took me to the TWRP screen after I rebooted it. I didn't know how to get past that screen, but a video I watched showed me how to fix it (or so I thought) by installing the original firmware. After doing so, I didn't have any Google services and the play store was replaced by the Samsung store. I tried installing the Google Play store with the play services and play services framework, which only slowed down my phone ("unfortunately, play services/play services framework stopped working"). I uninstalled all play services and now I have absolutely no clue what to do or where to go to get Google Play back. Please help me.<issue_comment>username_1: Check the user ID you run your `adb` server under. If it's different from `will` - you would need to compare your fingerprint with the key in that other user's home dir.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: With try-and-error (actually on first attempt, which shows it was not pure lack): your fingerprint shown on android device is one that can be created using `sha256` hash-function, that is `awk '{print $1}' < ~/.android/adbkey.pub | openssl base64 -A -d -a | openssl sha256 -c`.
Adb enhanced security (`sha256` much better and modern than `md5`).
```
$ cat test.pub | openssl base64 -A -d -a |openssl sha256 -c
(stdin)= bc:67:e2:fc:24:0b:69:17:c2:34:cd:16:49:0d:8a:f0:af:d7:28:1a:1e:75:6c:d0:20:65:1f:77:94:a5:0a:53
```
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/10/19 | 537 | 2,035 | <issue_start>username_0: I am getting this message when trying to get onto Google Play store. What does this mean and how can I correct this?<issue_comment>username_1: It looks like this error is related to G Suite (formerly known as Google Apps). Your account administrator most likely disabled Play Store recently. If you are not an admin and cannot ask the admins to re-enable Play Store, your only option is to add a personal Google account to your phone, and switch to that account in the Play Store as described [here](http://android-fix.com/google-play-problems/27-df-charta-01.html).
>
> To get rid of the error [DF-CHARTA-01] one can always add a new
> account to his Android-phone, then go to Google Play menu and switch
> Google Play to use the latter. To do so one has to follow the steps:
>
>
> 1. Open Google Play;
> 2. Tap Settings;
> 3. You will see the name and email address associated with the account you are using;
> 4. To select a different account, scroll down Selector;
> 5. Select the account you want to use and tap on it.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I bought two Samsung Galaxy Sky phones for my twin sons' birthday gifts and they said they could not connect to Google Play store. The message after touching the icon was:
>
> error retrieving information from server [DF-CHARTA-01]
>
>
>
This is how I fixed it:
I had created for each son a Gmail account, but I realized today that when they played with their phones last night they each also added their school Gmail account, which then became default email associated with Play Store. So,
1. I went to Google play and tapped the 3 horizontal lines in the Search box next to words "Google Play" .
2. Then just looked at top of bar and saw his school account (*which was our last name @ our school board address*).
I touched that, then saw the gmail account name that I created for them show up underneath, and touched that and that finally worked.
Keep in mind **to not use a school associated Gmail account.**
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/10/19 | 363 | 1,483 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to increase my ability to remain anonymous, or at least make it harder to track me. I want to remove Google Play completely from a Samsung Galaxy S4 running Android 5.0.1.
Android works fine without Google Play. I've been running Cyanogenmod without it for a few years. Besides a few [dysfunctional/crappy apps that crash because there's no Advertising ID](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/145592/69677), everything works fine.
I also don't play games or use their app store. When I find something I want, I build it from sources and install it over `adb`. Or I write it myself since I have a development background.
I tried to remove and disable all the Google Play stuff through Settings, but nothing has worked to date. Usually the option to remove or disable is not available (its greyed out). Or if I disable it, then the phone ignores my wishes and immediately re-enables it.
How do I remove Google Play services?<issue_comment>username_1: Replace with Other Play stores and Make it default. Then Users can easily Uninstall It.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I think your best solution would be to root the phone and then you can uninstall all the system apps you don't want.
To root the Samsung you could install TWRP custom recovery; boot into it (Home + Vol Up + Power) and choose to root the phone.
You could go a step further if you wish by installing cyanogenmod which does not come with Google apps by default.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/10/20 | 298 | 1,138 | <issue_start>username_0: So here is my problem: I cant get in to fastboot mode on my **lg k8 us375** android m 6.0.
Here is what I'm doing:
1. adb and fastboot are installed on pc (windows)
2. I have developer options and OEM bootloader unlock enabled
3. In terminal `adb devices` shows my phone
4. I enter `adb reboot-bootloader` but it does not say "fastboot mode" on screen like I have read it is supposed to. It just restarts my phone.
( note I have tried variations like `reboot_bootloader`; same result )
So my question is am I doing it wrong or is fastboot not on this phone. Or is it hidden somehow?<issue_comment>username_1: Replace with Other Play stores and Make it default. Then Users can easily Uninstall It.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I think your best solution would be to root the phone and then you can uninstall all the system apps you don't want.
To root the Samsung you could install TWRP custom recovery; boot into it (Home + Vol Up + Power) and choose to root the phone.
You could go a step further if you wish by installing cyanogenmod which does not come with Google apps by default.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/10/20 | 1,729 | 6,247 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an audio file recorded in 5.1 surround sound. I'd like to play this from my Android Device.
The issue I have is the various Android devices I have (tablets/phones) all contain the standard 3.5mm jack, which I *think* means stereo only! I'm not after a simulated surround sound, I need access to the outputs! Maybe it's possible via the USB?
My exact requirement (if it helps) is to end up with 4 outputs. Front-left and front-right as a stereo pair and back-left and back-right as a stereo pair (I don't need the sub-channel). However, being able to somehow split the signal so each goes to its own speaker is also fine, I can worry about the rest. The focus is on how the Android device can provide this signal(s).
The device I want to connect to is [External Sound Card With USB 5.1](https://web.archive.org/web/20161012014903/http://www.myxlshop.co.uk/j-s-external-sound-card-with-usb-51.html) (note it's USB input). Maybe with the new USB DAC input?<issue_comment>username_1: In stock Android, it's not possible to have more than two audio channels (stereo) via USB as documented [here](https://source.android.com/docs/core/audio/usb#androidSupport).
The 3.5mm jack, as well as Bluetooth, do not support more than 2 channels either (although enhanced aptX (Bluetooth) does support 5.1 surround sound, it's not yet supported by Android).
You can connect an external sound card, it may even work but you won't have 5.1 output through your Android's USB port which means you could only have virtual surround sound on an external sound card.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: There are many ways you can get the audio out.
**Through wire:**
1. Head phone jack - you clearly said it can deliver only two channel audio.
2. USB - You can use an OTG adapter and plug in a 5 channel USB sound card and get the 5 channel audio out.
3. USB Type C may have this support native.
**Wireless:**
1. Bluetooth - if the A2DP profile is supported (will be supported from v2.0 onwards) you can stream audio in stereo - again not good enough for you.
2. Screencast protocols like Miracast or DLNA might support as it can be considered as a HDMI connection over Wi-Fi. These should support 5 channel audio.
Of course for all these you have to have a player which has appropriate codec support (usually AC3).
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: You could try this app: [USB Audio Player PRO](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.extreamsd.usbaudioplayerpro).
The developer claims to have built its own USB audio driver and thus supports multi-channel streams:
[USB audio driver in USB audio player/recorder pro and audio evolution mobile](https://www.extreamsd.com/index.php/technology/usb-audio-driver).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Others have suggested that USB audio only supports stereo (2-channel) audio streams, and that 5.1 could be achieved using 3rd party applications. The reference to it only supporting stereo is outdated (Android 5.0, 2014). This limitation is no longer present. The Android USB Audio HAL supports up to 8 channels (7.1).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Multichannel support exists, but from what I can tell, it's not necessarily standardized. I still can't confirm to what extent it is supported, but my limited understanding suggests that only external devices designed with Android in mind would be able to work with multi-channel support, and would otherwise either not recognize the extra channels, or just duplicate it over to those channels.
It's a shame that Android doesn't have a way to actually manage audio streams or channels, but it seems that has more to do with the way external sound devices are implemented more than anything.
<https://source.android.com/devices/audio/usb>
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: Via normal miniplug stereo output, you should be able to feed into a Dolby-enabled system which separates the encoded extra channels from the stereo output. That's not true discrete multichannel, but it sounds OK to me on my home stereo.
I"m also looking to try to get this from an Android in an outdoor portable music situation, hopefully via Bluetooth.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: I don't know what possibilities were available back in 2016 when this question was first posted, but today I managed to get multi-channel audio working on my Android 12 TvOS tvbox with a USB 7.1 channel external soundcard.
I used the docs from <https://source.android.com/docs/core/audio/implement-policy> and edited `/vendor/etc/usb_audio_policy_configuration.xml` to add a multi-channel output to the config. (As shipped, the config only supported stereo.) I basically copied some info from the HDMI policy. Here's a diff showing what I changed. Note that you'd need root access to make these changes on your box.
```
--- /tmp/usb0.xml 2023-04-04 08:53:35.572497487 +0100
+++ /tmp/usb1.xml 2023-04-04 09:18:15.012439753 +0100
@@ -21,6 +15,11 @@
+
+
+
@@ -38,7 +37,7 @@
+ sources="usb_device output,usb_multi output"/>
```
For reference: I have an H96 Max V58 tvbox, and used this StarTech USB soundcard. <https://www.startech.com/en-us/cards-adapters/icusbaudio7d>
Also note: this soundcard also has SPDIF input and output. The SPDIF out carries the front left/right channels too, same as the analog output. That turns out to work perfectly for my purpose. I'm using Edifier S350DB for my front speakers; this is an active speaker set with 2 bookshelf speakers and a subwoofer and I'm using TOSlink optical cable for the connection. My original setup was
```
(back of room) (front of room)
Projector
|
HDMI
|
TVbox ---> SPDIF -> front speakers
```
Now it's
```
(back of room) (front of room)
Projector
|
HDMI
|
TVbox
|
USB ---> SPDIF -> front speakers
|
RCA -> rear speaker amp
```
I added a simple stereo amp and pair of passive bookshelf speakers for the rear surround channels, and use this with Kodi (version 20) set to use a 4.0 speaker configuration. In 4.0, the rear channels are actually coming out the output labeled "center/sub" on the StarTech box.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/10/20 | 1,498 | 5,499 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Reliance LYF mobile phone and want to enable the developer mode.
I looked for all options in the settings but haven't found anything to enable developer mode.
Is the developer mode option available on it?<issue_comment>username_1: In stock Android, it's not possible to have more than two audio channels (stereo) via USB as documented [here](https://source.android.com/docs/core/audio/usb#androidSupport).
The 3.5mm jack, as well as Bluetooth, do not support more than 2 channels either (although enhanced aptX (Bluetooth) does support 5.1 surround sound, it's not yet supported by Android).
You can connect an external sound card, it may even work but you won't have 5.1 output through your Android's USB port which means you could only have virtual surround sound on an external sound card.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: There are many ways you can get the audio out.
**Through wire:**
1. Head phone jack - you clearly said it can deliver only two channel audio.
2. USB - You can use an OTG adapter and plug in a 5 channel USB sound card and get the 5 channel audio out.
3. USB Type C may have this support native.
**Wireless:**
1. Bluetooth - if the A2DP profile is supported (will be supported from v2.0 onwards) you can stream audio in stereo - again not good enough for you.
2. Screencast protocols like Miracast or DLNA might support as it can be considered as a HDMI connection over Wi-Fi. These should support 5 channel audio.
Of course for all these you have to have a player which has appropriate codec support (usually AC3).
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: You could try this app: [USB Audio Player PRO](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.extreamsd.usbaudioplayerpro).
The developer claims to have built its own USB audio driver and thus supports multi-channel streams:
[USB audio driver in USB audio player/recorder pro and audio evolution mobile](https://www.extreamsd.com/index.php/technology/usb-audio-driver).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Others have suggested that USB audio only supports stereo (2-channel) audio streams, and that 5.1 could be achieved using 3rd party applications. The reference to it only supporting stereo is outdated (Android 5.0, 2014). This limitation is no longer present. The Android USB Audio HAL supports up to 8 channels (7.1).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Multichannel support exists, but from what I can tell, it's not necessarily standardized. I still can't confirm to what extent it is supported, but my limited understanding suggests that only external devices designed with Android in mind would be able to work with multi-channel support, and would otherwise either not recognize the extra channels, or just duplicate it over to those channels.
It's a shame that Android doesn't have a way to actually manage audio streams or channels, but it seems that has more to do with the way external sound devices are implemented more than anything.
<https://source.android.com/devices/audio/usb>
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: Via normal miniplug stereo output, you should be able to feed into a Dolby-enabled system which separates the encoded extra channels from the stereo output. That's not true discrete multichannel, but it sounds OK to me on my home stereo.
I"m also looking to try to get this from an Android in an outdoor portable music situation, hopefully via Bluetooth.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: I don't know what possibilities were available back in 2016 when this question was first posted, but today I managed to get multi-channel audio working on my Android 12 TvOS tvbox with a USB 7.1 channel external soundcard.
I used the docs from <https://source.android.com/docs/core/audio/implement-policy> and edited `/vendor/etc/usb_audio_policy_configuration.xml` to add a multi-channel output to the config. (As shipped, the config only supported stereo.) I basically copied some info from the HDMI policy. Here's a diff showing what I changed. Note that you'd need root access to make these changes on your box.
```
--- /tmp/usb0.xml 2023-04-04 08:53:35.572497487 +0100
+++ /tmp/usb1.xml 2023-04-04 09:18:15.012439753 +0100
@@ -21,6 +15,11 @@
+
+
+
@@ -38,7 +37,7 @@
+ sources="usb_device output,usb_multi output"/>
```
For reference: I have an H96 Max V58 tvbox, and used this StarTech USB soundcard. <https://www.startech.com/en-us/cards-adapters/icusbaudio7d>
Also note: this soundcard also has SPDIF input and output. The SPDIF out carries the front left/right channels too, same as the analog output. That turns out to work perfectly for my purpose. I'm using Edifier S350DB for my front speakers; this is an active speaker set with 2 bookshelf speakers and a subwoofer and I'm using TOSlink optical cable for the connection. My original setup was
```
(back of room) (front of room)
Projector
|
HDMI
|
TVbox ---> SPDIF -> front speakers
```
Now it's
```
(back of room) (front of room)
Projector
|
HDMI
|
TVbox
|
USB ---> SPDIF -> front speakers
|
RCA -> rear speaker amp
```
I added a simple stereo amp and pair of passive bookshelf speakers for the rear surround channels, and use this with Kodi (version 20) set to use a 4.0 speaker configuration. In 4.0, the rear channels are actually coming out the output labeled "center/sub" on the StarTech box.
Upvotes: 1 |