date stringlengths 10 10 | nb_tokens int64 60 629k | text_size int64 234 1.02M | content stringlengths 234 1.02M |
|---|---|---|---|
2015/12/29 | 1,247 | 4,494 | <issue_start>username_0: I've a OnePlus One with unlocked bootloader, modified TWRP v2.8.6, [unofficial MultiROM](http://forum.xda-developers.com/oneplus-one/development/mod-multirom-v26-t2835738) v32k, [MultiROM Manager](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tassadar.multirommgr) v1.186, Cyanogen OS 12 as primary and several Android 5.1 secondary ROMs. I don't have any non-Android secondary ROM.
I created a Android backup script in my PC which requires me to boot into a particular ROM of mine for backup to take place. This is not an XY problem and hence I need not to discuss anything about the flexibility of backup. I must boot into a particular secondary ROM (say S1).
At present, I'm using [automation](/questions/tagged/automation "show questions tagged 'automation'"), Tasker precisely, which using time trigger launches MultiROM and uses combination of `input tap` commands to navigate to S1's entry and taps it to boot into it. As you may have guessed, this approach is mundane and is bound to fail should the user deliberately or inadvertently touches any soft/hard button or interacts with UI of the active app during which the series of input commands are in use.
I'm absolutely aware about [AutoInput](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.joaomgcd.autoinput), [Xposed Additions Pro](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.spazedog.xposed.additionsgb.pro) apps and [screen pinning of an app](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/118731/how-do-i-screen-pin-an-app-in-android-lollipop-using-command-line), where the former two allows independently disabling soft/hard keys for an active app. AutoInput can even simulate recorded touches. However, none of them can disable input from touchscreen, with touch input being the biggest cause of failure with current solution.
Being unable to find out a way to block touch input on-the-fly, I decided to figure how MultiROM Manager app causes a device to boot into a particular ROM. It was a hopeless journey to begin with, given that the keywords *viz.* command, multirom, adb, boot, secondary, primary ROM, are found wherever MultiROM is mentioned. Since even advanced web search didn't benefit me, I decided to peek into the output of [logcat](/questions/tagged/logcat "show questions tagged 'logcat'") and see whether it gives me something useful. Once again, nothing of any good use.
I found myself left with the choice to contact <NAME> (*Tassadar*, the original developer of MultiROM) for the solution or peek into the source code of the app. Deciding to go with the latter choice, during my exploration I stumbled upon these lines in [MultiROM.java](https://github.com/Tasssadar/MultiROMMgr/blob/master/MultiROMMgr/src/main/java/com/tassadar/multirommgr/MultiROM.java#L281)
```
public void bootRom(Rom rom) {
String name = (rom.type == Rom.ROM_PRIMARY) ? INTERNAL_ROM : rom.name;
Shell.SU.run(**"%smultirom --boot-rom='%s'", m\_path, name**);
}
```
Being through with [libsuperuser](https://github.com/Tasssadar/MultiROMMgr/tree/master/MultiROMMgr/src/main/java/eu/chainfire/libsuperuser) already, I took an educated guess that `Shell.SU.run("%s/multirom --boot-rom='%s'", m_path, name)` most likely corresponds to the command run in a shell with superuser privilege.
And, this is the end of the story since I've checked all the locations under $PATH and none of them contains the binary named `multirom`.
So, **how do I boot into a particular ROM now?**<issue_comment>username_1: Download the `Nexus Root Toolkit` from [here](http://www.wugfresh.com/nrt/). It has options to restore any Nexus device back to its factory settings, including bricked or boot looping devices, under the `Flash Stock + Unroot` button. You should select the option `Current status` of `Soft-Bricked / Bootloop`. The toolkit will walk you through, step by step, restoring your Nexus to working condition.
You may lose any data stored on the device.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3K5tM.png)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: username_1's answer is very good but try the following first and then follow his advice if these solutions fail.
1. Boot into stock recovery (guide [here](http://www.robschmuecker.com/how-to-boot-into-recovery-mode-nexus-7/ "Recovery Guide")) and wipe the cache partition then reboot.
2. If that fails, boot into recovery in the same way and wipe the data partition.
Upvotes: 0 |
2015/12/30 | 468 | 1,810 | <issue_start>username_0: My Motorola Ultra is running 4.4.4 and I've been holding off on upgrading to the next one since I don't want to lose any possibility of getting root. However, this morning when the notification popped up, I accidentally selected "Don't remind me, just update at this time", the time being noon tomorrow. When it tries to start the update, is there anyway I can stop it?<issue_comment>username_1: It looks like there's no option to disable a in-progress update. Android upgrade is done by system ui. It will keep trying to download the incremental upgrade packages. After the download is finished, it will ask you to install the upgrade. And reboot upon your confirmation. You can decide not to install upgrade when it's prompting confirmation.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I've already found this hopeful answer:
>
> I just spoke to Google directly. The Nexus 5 under settings, apps has
> something called Google Play services. Not store. If you uncheck the
> notification box in Google Play services and restart the phone the
> notification for the Android system updates will stop in the
> notification bar. Worked like a charm!
>
>
> From: [How do I skip an Android system update and stop its notifications?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/100991/how-do-i-skip-an-android-system-update-and-stop-its-notifications)
>
>
>
Moreover, if your devise had been rooted, you should be able to install [`Disable Services`](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=cn.wq.disableservice) and find the `SystemUpdateService` under `Google Services` Framework. Disable it.
As you have device with Android Kitkat please read also that article: <https://www.droidmen.com/how-to-stop-downloading-of-android-os-update-in-android-phone/>
It should work.
Upvotes: 2 |
2015/12/30 | 377 | 1,431 | <issue_start>username_0: I am currently using a Samsung Galaxy Xcover 3 (Model Number - SM-G388F) running KitKat 4.4.4. I would like to have some of these songs on my computer and phone, and this means that I need to find the download location.
Places that I have looked:
* `/data/data` = Empty (no folders inside the `/data` folder)
* `/sdcard/Android/data/` = No folder for the correct Geometry Dash games
* Nowhere visible on the root of the internal SD card
*I am having trouble trying to find the application data location for any of my applications*
Where do the custom songs download with custom levels in Geometry Dash get stored on the phone?
If it's relevant, the version of Geometry Dash is 2.011.<issue_comment>username_1: You'll need root access to find the folder.
Steps:
1. Root your phone
2. Install an application like ES File Explorer that has the root explorer function.
3. Go to `/data/data/com.robtopx.geometryjump/files`
4. Paste song, name of song must be song ID (Newgrounds)
Note: If you don't see the folders after `/data/data`, then either the file explorer doesn't support root explorer or your device is not rooted.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I know you've already got an answer, but...
You could just search the song name in Newgrounds, which is where the songs are from, and then just click the giant yellow button that says "Download this song!"
::vv
Upvotes: 0 |
2015/12/30 | 1,646 | 6,065 | <issue_start>username_0: I am continually getting prompts for installing apps, such as Clean Master and or 9 apps on my Android phone. I turned off the option "Install apps from unknown sources" in security settings but then a message would popup saying "Install blocked" every time, as shown in the screenshot below.
So, how to stop these annoying prompts?
(Click image to enlarge)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yGJKT.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: You're better off with [Izzy's advise](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/132951/stop-android-from-displaying-unknown-sources-prompt-on-app-install#comment166574_132951) and find and weed out the app trying to install that Clean Master app. Anyhow, there you go with an another solution.
When you attempt to sideload an apk using UI or any app that attempts to install an apk and isn't granted the permission [android.permission.INSTALL\_PACKAGES](http://developer.android.com/reference/android/Manifest.permission.html#INSTALL_PACKAGES), Package Installer app comes into action and its activity `PackageInstallerActivity` is launched. The setting for unknown sources (install\_non\_market\_apps) under Settings Storage's database is [checked and based on that](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/packages/apps/PackageInstaller/+/lollipop-release/src/com/android/packageinstaller/PackageInstallerActivity.java#525), you're either shown that prompt (dialog) or the permissions and the install button.
Even if you manage to find a hack that disables that prompt from being shown, Package Installer would still be launched and the UI would look awkward since only app's label and white space would be visible to you, which would do naught but create confusion.
For rooted Android
==================
The solution I ended up with is to get rid of the activity `PackageInstallerActivity`. You can use [Elixir 2](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bartat.android.elixir) to disable that activity.
Launch it → Application → tap [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MRQgU.jpg) → System applications → Package Installer → find and disable the said activity
You can also use [adb](/questions/tagged/adb "show questions tagged 'adb'") in this case
```
adb shell su -c pm disable com.android.packageinstaller/.PackageInstallerActivity # Disables the activity
adb shell su -c pm enable com.android.packageinstaller/.PackageInstallerActivity # Use it to enable the activity
```
Now whenever you or an app attempt to sideload an apk which requires launching the Package Installer app, you may either get a toast like in the following image or an app registered to open/explore an apk would be launched or be suggested by system.
(Click image to enlarge)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5pXEX.png)
If the toast becomes noisy, hide it using [EnhancedToast](http://repo.xposed.info/module/de.defim.apk.enhancedtoast)[1](http://forum.xda-developers.com/xposed/modules/app-enhancedtoast-t2625433) or [UnToaster](http://repo.xposed.info/module/com.egingell.untoaster)[2](http://forum.xda-developers.com/xposed/modules/xposed-untoaster-xposed-t2624523). Since they are Xposed modules, you would need Xposed Framework appropriate3 for your Android version.
**Note** that disabling that activity wouldn't affect the ability of Play Store to install an app, neither would it affect `adb install` because the underlying package manager is intact.
You can use [automation](/questions/tagged/automation "show questions tagged 'automation'") here too. Example, whenever your preferred file manager is active on screen, enable that activity so that you can continue to sideload an apk, should you decide to, and keep it disabled for any other on-screen active app.
For non-rooted Android
======================
You (KitKat or Lollipop users) can hide/block the whole Package Installer app. You definitely need [adb](/questions/tagged/adb "show questions tagged 'adb'") for that.
```
adb shell pm block com.android.packageinstaller # for KitKat
adb shell pm hide com.android.packageinstaller # for Lollipop
```
The biggest inconvenience here is that you won't be able to uninstall an app using Settings app because it uses Package Installer's activity named `UninstallerActivity` and `UninstallAppProgress`. Attempt to removal of an app using Settings app would cause the latter to crash.
Every time you intend to remove an app using Settings app or sideload an apk using UI, you must unhide/unblock Package Installer app.
To unblock/unhide, do
```
adb shell pm unblock com.android.packageinstaller # for KitKat
adb shell pm unhide com.android.packageinstaller # for Lollipop
```
**Note** that hiding/blocking that app wouldn't affect the ability of Play Store to install an app, neither would it affect `adb install` because the underlying package manager is intact.
---
1: [XDA: EnhancedToast](http://forum.xda-developers.com/xposed/modules/app-enhancedtoast-t2625433)
2: [XDA: UnToaster](http://forum.xda-developers.com/xposed/modules/xposed-untoaster-xposed-t2624523)
3. Xposed Framework: [Android 4.x](http://repo.xposed.info/module/de.robv.android.xposed.installer), [Android 5.x and 6.x](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=3034811)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I have a Chinese pad/phone that has built in system Trojans. The pad/phone was unusable with constant pop ups. I rooted it and it's was a bit better.
Malwarebytes was the only scanner that found 3 trojans.
All 3 were system trojans. I tried lots of ways to fix the problem nothing worked.
The main culprit was system the pad/phone has two system icons. One is the normal Cog. The other is a green droid.
By disabling the green droid system almost every problem gone.
Thanks to this post i installed Elixir 2. I disabled every thing in system that i don't use and it's now 99% better.
Upvotes: 0 |
2015/12/30 | 692 | 2,742 | <issue_start>username_0: Out of my newly bought Class 10 16GB microSD card I am getting only 14.71GB. Is this normal?<issue_comment>username_1: Gigabytes are base 10, but Android uses Gibibytes (base 2)
See: <http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i=16GB+to+GiB>.
This is needed because binary data is written in base 2, but SI units are base 10.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Also, all disks have 'bad sectors' which are not reported in the user available space.
Another thing that takes up space in a drive is the file structure inherent in the device itself.
A good way to understand this is to measure the exterior front wall of your house, then go from room to room, measuring the inside dimensions, omitting the interior walls and total up THOSE dimensions. Not the same, are they?
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Adding on to @username_1's answer, the binary-metric confusion is definitely one reason you encounter these kinds of differentially reported storage counts. Another thing is the formatting / file system overhead involved.
Normally, larger the SD card, larger will be the lost available storage due to the storage space required by the file system data structures like allocation tables, etc.
Android uses FAT32 or VFAT for SD cards by default, and, yes, this formatting does cause a significant loss in available storage.
Note also that newer Android devices or devices with modified kernels can support other file systems on the SD card such as ext4, NTFS or exFAT. All of these file systems have larger overheads compared to the FAT32/VFAT default, and ext4 and NTFS the highest among these.
As @Edgar posted, this can be thought of as the difference between the volume of a container measured internally and externally. The file system overheads account for the thickness, and the other part involves a different system of units used for measurement.
Put together, the decimal(metric)-binary confusion, file system overheads and also manufacturing issues cause this difference between advertised and reported storage capacity.
About manufacturing defects, I'm quoting from the accepted answer to [this](https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/252593/how-can-i-securely-delete-the-contents-of-a-thumb-drive-so-data-cant-be-recover) Unix&Linux SE question:
>
> Typically a part of flash storage is faulty, and is marked so during manufacturing. There are also other bits that can go wrong (becoming unchangeable, unsettable, or unclearable), these parts must be marked faulty as well during the lifetime. This information is stored in a reserved space, on the same chips as your data. This is one of the several reasons a 4GB thumb drive is not showing 2^32 bytes capacity.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 1 |
2015/12/30 | 506 | 2,053 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Huawei P8 Lite to which I added an SD card.
Using Windows Explorer, I'm not sure where to copy multimedia files so that the files will be found by eg. VLC.
The "SD Card" item contains the following directories:
```
.backup
Android
backup
DCIM
HuaweiBackup
LOST.DIR
```
Thank you.<issue_comment>username_1: Principially everywhere (except for `LOST.DIR`, `Android` and directories starting with a dot like `.backup`). Apart from that, you might wish to apply some "logic". Defaults are often:
* `Music`: for your music files (have sub-directories below that if you like)
* `Video`: for your video files
* `Pictures`: for photos etc.
* `Books`: for eBooks
Note that your Android device's camera stores its photos/videos below `DCIM`. The [media-scanner](/questions/tagged/media-scanner "show questions tagged 'media-scanner'") will find your media files everywhere, unless you hide a directory and its contents by placing a `.nomedia` file into it. Several media players (and I assume VLC belongs into this category) also allow you browsing directories manually, independent from the device's media library.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can copy your files to anywhere you want on your SD Card except the folders generated by the device like `LOST.DIR`, `Android`, and any other folder beginning with a dot like `.backup`. By default, any android device will search for multimedia files in all folders in the SD Card and recognize them using the system's **MediaScanner**. There is no specific folder, where you should copy to.
So for example, you can create these four folders in the root of your SD Card, and copy your files to them:
1. Music
2. Videos
3. Photos (sometimes people also like to put their photos in DCIM folder)
4. eBooks
Of course, you can name these folders anything you want and even create new ones as you like... If it happens that your device couldn't recognize any of your newly added files, just reboot your device and check them again, but that rarely happens.
Upvotes: 0 |
2015/12/31 | 563 | 1,900 | <issue_start>username_0: I noticed recently that WhatsApp automatically backups messages. I get a popup every now and then when I am using WhatsApp which says "*Backing up messages*". I don't want WhatsApp to backup my messages. I went into the WhatsApp settings and clicked '*Chats and calls -> Chat backup*' and it says:
```
Local: 3:00am
Google Drive: Never
```
Google Drive settings shows that my settings are set to '*Never back up to Google Drive*'.
With that said, how do I prevent it from backing up locally?<issue_comment>username_1: There's no way to do that. WhatsApp updates its backup at 4 am(for me, can vary) everyday locally for easy recovery of chats.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Quoting from WhatsApp FAQ [How do I restore my chat history](https://www.whatsapp.com/faq/en/android/30003558)
>
> If your device is plugged into your computer at night, low on storage space or is set to sleep with no background data; WhatsApp will not be able to backup your chat history.
>
>
>
I presume freeing up storage space is your reason for not wanting to back up. To do that
* [How do I delete WhatsApp back up?](https://www.whatsapp.com/faq/en/android/30030306) says
>
> Your Chat History Backup files are saved in the `/sdcard/WhatsApp/Databases/ folder`.- You cannot open these folders outside of WhatsApp.- Make sure you have a file manager to be able to delete these files...
>
>
> 1. Launch your File Manager.
> 2. Tap on the WhatsApp folder, a list of all WhatsApp sub-folders will appear.
> 3. Tap and hold the Databases file.
> 4. Select Delete.
>
>
>
* [Wcleaner for WA](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=vAlmaraz.miniApp.WCleaner). App description amongst other features claims (not tested by me )
>
> Now you can delete or save WhatsApp backups (It is highly recommended not to delete latest backup)
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2015/12/31 | 1,407 | 5,388 | <issue_start>username_0: Some apps don't allow screenshots so how can I still take a screenshot?
It is my phone and I should be able to do whatever I want with it so why is there even a feature to disallow screenshots?
Android 5.0.1<issue_comment>username_1: Apps which are set with LayoutParams.FLAG\_SECURE flag do not allow screenshots (or videos recording) to be taken. It is of-course your phone but the app belongs to its owner (and he can rightfully wish to prevent users from capturing something sensitive in nature). You're barred from taking a screenshot only for those screens that have the above flag set. However you can still take a screenshot by projecting your phone on the PC screen and capturing it. That way, the device has no idea that screenshot is taken.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Note: this answer is a bit outdated as of August 31, 2022. Will try to update it soon.
======================================================================================
### Why apps prevent screen capturing, and how to disable the restriction
Some apps present sensitive data (e.g. banking apps) or copyright-protected content (e.g. video streaming apps). App developers can opt to use the Android platform’s `[FLAG\_SECURE](https://developer.android.com/reference/android/view/WindowManager.LayoutParams#FLAG_SECURE)` setting to prevent the screen from being captured, recorded, or shown on “non-secure displays” such as the recent apps view. There are a couple of ways to disable this flag:
1. [Smali Patcher](https://forum.xda-developers.com/apps/magisk/module-smali-patcher-0-7-t3680053) module for Magisk. [Magisk](https://github.com/topjohnwu/Magisk) is officially supported on Android versions 4.2–12.0.
2. [DisableFlagSecure](http://repo.xposed.info/module/fi.veetipaananen.android.disableflagsecure) module for Xposed. [Xposed](https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=3034811) is officially supported on Android versions 5.0–8.1.
The Smali Patcher method requires you to connect your phone to a PC and run a Windows program to actually generate the module. Note that Magisk on Android 4.2 does not support MagiskHide.
The Xposed method has a big caveat: many banking apps use Google’s SafetyNet platform for checking device integrity, and prevent the application from being used on devices that have Xposed installed. This renders the module useless in SafetyNet-enabled apps, and there is currently no way to hide Xposed from SafetyNet.
**Use these modules with caution, as they disable the flag *system-wide*.**
### Taking a screen capture of your phone on your PC
If you can’t or don’t want to disable `FLAG_SECURE` on your phone, you can also use [scrcpy](https://github.com/Genymobile/scrcpy). It lets you mirror your phone’s display to your computer, and then you can just use a screenshot software of your choice on your computer to capture the phone’s screen. This requires you to turn on ADB debugging from your phone’s development settings, but beware that some apps restrict their functions when they detect that development settings are enabled. Scrcpy works on Android versions 5.0–12.0.
Upvotes: 6 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Following on from 'user's' answer, using a program such as Droid@screen [droid at screen](http://droid-at-screen.org/download.html) will allow you to project your phone screen to the PC, and then screenshot it via the PC Prnt Scrn button.
UPDATE:
Android screen mirror is a better and faster screen mirror
<https://github.com/adakoda/android-screen-monitor>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: You can use [Scrcpy](https://github.com/Genymobile/scrcpy) or [Vysor](https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/vysor/gidgenkbbabolejbgbpnhbimgjbffefm) app and project your android screen to computer screen and then take screenshot on your PC.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_5: In some banks you must log in first and disable security measures in regards to mobile applications. I did it with my bank.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: There's also [Smali Patcher](https://forum.xda-developers.com/apps/magisk/module-smali-patcher-0-7-t3680053) program for Windows which creates custom Magisk module for your device and has option to disable `FLAG_SECURE` system-wide.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_7: Just for those guys who came here by error in Chrome Incognito mode
**Can't take screenshot due to error policy**
There is a special flag `Incognito screenshots` that can be accessed via
```
chrome://flags
```
The default value is disabled but if you enable it, you are done. Screenshots are allowed.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/13Mwv.jpg)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_8: I've found a workaround: from the app that is blocking screenshots press the Home button/gesture and then the Recents button/gesture so you can see the app you want to screenshot; you can then screenshot with the normal button shortcut or the on-screen "screenshot" button (and the resulting screenshot will not be blacked-out).
This worked for an over-zealous app which didn't want me screenshotting a specific screen but not for a well-made app (i.e. a browser in incognito mode), so it's almost certainly an exploit that might be patched rather than intended behaviour. Tested on android 9 and 12.
Upvotes: 1 |
2015/12/31 | 734 | 2,549 | <issue_start>username_0: I have rooted my **Huawei P8-Lite ALE-L21** with `superuser.zip`. After successful root I tried to change superuser app. So, I have installed *KingoUser.apk* and after that I have clicked on `superSu app -> settings -> switch superuser app`. It didn't work. So, I installed *Link2SD* app and converted KingoUser as a system app. Now, when I launching SuperSu or KingoUser, some warning message pops up and says that the su binary needs to be updated.
There is no way to flash my phone cause Huawei haven't released my build version as a stand-alone flash file.
How can I unroot my phone now ?<issue_comment>username_1: **Part 1 Unrooting Your Device**
You can unroot your phone from SuperSu itselef
*Go to SuperSu > Setting > Fullunroot.*
**Part 2: Replacing KingUser**
You can download the ready to use script for replacing it with SuperSu [Here](http://zidroid.com/how-to-get-ride-and-replace-kinguser-with-supersu-app/)
1. Download Zip file from site
2. Extract it in External Sdcard
3. Launch Terminal Emulator
4. Type `su` and give the superuser acess
5. Type `sh /sdcard/mrw/root.sh`
6. Script will automatically delete all Kinguser files amd will make SuperSu as system app
7. Update SuperSu binary
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I don't think the question matches its title. However, this answer is for people who might arrive here in search for an answer to the question asked in the title...
how to **delete system app using zip file**.
First, see [this answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/156337) where I explain how to create a ZIP file for flashing `.apk` files. Follow that explanation but use an `updater-script` like this:
```
mount("MTD", "system", "/dev/block/platform/mtk-msdc.0/by-name/system", "/system");
delete_recursive("/system/app/SomeApp");
unmount("/system");
```
Where `SomeApp` is the directory containing the `.apk` for the app that you want to delete (use an `adb shell` to acertain this path).
One could, however, just use `adb shell` to do it (but this doesn't answer the question asked):
```
$ adb shell
shell:/ $ su
root:/ # mount -o remount,rw /system
root:/ # rm -r /system/app/SomeApp
rppt:/ # reboot
```
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Be careful! If you rashly attempt to install SuperSU after rooting with KingoRoot, your device would be bricked even if you uninstalled KingoRoot. KingoRoot will NOT completely remove itself when you uninstall it. The ONLY way to remove KingoRoot completely is to flash the stock ROM.
So, no, don't.
Upvotes: 0 |
2015/12/31 | 612 | 2,092 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to know that how to check it out..
I have rooted my phone 3 times and unrooted also . my phone is in warranty so I want to know it<issue_comment>username_1: **Part 1 Unrooting Your Device**
You can unroot your phone from SuperSu itselef
*Go to SuperSu > Setting > Fullunroot.*
**Part 2: Replacing KingUser**
You can download the ready to use script for replacing it with SuperSu [Here](http://zidroid.com/how-to-get-ride-and-replace-kinguser-with-supersu-app/)
1. Download Zip file from site
2. Extract it in External Sdcard
3. Launch Terminal Emulator
4. Type `su` and give the superuser acess
5. Type `sh /sdcard/mrw/root.sh`
6. Script will automatically delete all Kinguser files amd will make SuperSu as system app
7. Update SuperSu binary
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I don't think the question matches its title. However, this answer is for people who might arrive here in search for an answer to the question asked in the title...
how to **delete system app using zip file**.
First, see [this answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/156337) where I explain how to create a ZIP file for flashing `.apk` files. Follow that explanation but use an `updater-script` like this:
```
mount("MTD", "system", "/dev/block/platform/mtk-msdc.0/by-name/system", "/system");
delete_recursive("/system/app/SomeApp");
unmount("/system");
```
Where `SomeApp` is the directory containing the `.apk` for the app that you want to delete (use an `adb shell` to acertain this path).
One could, however, just use `adb shell` to do it (but this doesn't answer the question asked):
```
$ adb shell
shell:/ $ su
root:/ # mount -o remount,rw /system
root:/ # rm -r /system/app/SomeApp
rppt:/ # reboot
```
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Be careful! If you rashly attempt to install SuperSU after rooting with KingoRoot, your device would be bricked even if you uninstalled KingoRoot. KingoRoot will NOT completely remove itself when you uninstall it. The ONLY way to remove KingoRoot completely is to flash the stock ROM.
So, no, don't.
Upvotes: 0 |
2015/12/31 | 617 | 2,335 | <issue_start>username_0: I wanted to ask what would happen to an app (for example, Flappy Bird) that gets deleted from the Play Store. However, I still have it on my mobile.
I am changing my phone and plan to sell the old one. If I delete the app from my old phone's storage, will I still be able to install it from the Play Store, and will it exist in My Apps and Games at my account in Play Store?<issue_comment>username_1: You will not be able to download the app once it is removed from Play Store, which means you can't install on new phone (and will not be available in your account "My Apps and Games", since it is not available on Play Store). So it doesn't matter whether your phone is old or new- even on your current phone, if you uninstall it , you can't install from play store, if the app is removed from Play Store
>
> Availability
>
>
> Some apps and games can be removed from Google Play by a developer or for policy reasons. If an item has been removed, it won't be available for download.
>
>
>
**Source**: [Google Play Help - I can't find an app or game](https://support.google.com/googleplay/answer/113411?hl=en)
That is not the end of world. For starters, you can consider taking a backup of the game apk (of course, no updates from Play Store). Many ways to do this are suggested here - [How to take backup of all installed APKs from Phone to PC?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/20606/how-to-take-backup-of-all-installed-apks-from-phone-to-pc)
Alternatively, apps and games removed from Google Play Store, may well be available on:
* **Alternate sources** (possibility of getting updates): see [What are the alternative Android app markets?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/216/what-are-the-alternative-android-app-markets)
* **Internet**: download apk from internet and install (not recommended since you have no way of knowing for sure that the apk is free of malware or adware)
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: You can transfer the apk file to your computer and then transfer it back to your new phone.
Or if you are going to have both phones together for sometime then just use the app MyAppSharer to send the apk from your current phone to the new phone.
Here's a [link](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.yschi.MyAppSharer) to the app.
Upvotes: 2 |
2015/12/31 | 1,349 | 5,237 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently uninstalled and installed WhatsApp on my Samsung Galaxy S2, and it started to restore my chats. I'm fine with my chats but after being done with the chats, it automatically started to restore the old media too, which would cause my phone to download data of 2 GB.
I want to stop it, but I can't find how to stop it. It used to restore only messages before having the Google Drive backup.<issue_comment>username_1: I think you should try to follow these steps;
1. Uninstall WhatsApp.
2. Download the APK from WhatsApp's official site.
3. Sign out Google account from your phone.
4. Install WhatsApp. Now, it may ask you to restore chats and media from the SD card.
5. Click OK, you may get your chats and media restored, whichever is on your SD card.
6. Done.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: I'm having the same problem. So far, the only working solution that I discovered is to disconnect WhatsApp from your Google Drive (during the restoration).
In a browser, go to your **Google Drive** → **Setting** (the gear icon) → **Manage Apps** → look for **WhatsApp Messenger** → click ***Option*** next to it → click ***Disconnect From Drive***.
The media restoration will stop.
If you don't want to restore your media, you don't need to use Google Drive. Disconnect WhatsApp from it (like shown above) before you begin to reinstall WhatsApp and it will restore your chat history (no media) from your local backup, which is located in *../WhatsApp/databases/* directory in your phone.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: You could simply delete WhatsApp, then delete your Google account from your phone. So that when you install WhatsApp, it won't download the media but the chats only. Then link your account again and it won't download the media.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Google Drive stores WhatsApp media backup files in hidden mode following this change in the Drive.
Delete or stop backups:
1. Using a computer, go to <https://drive.google.com>.
2. In the top right, click the gear icon > Settings.
3. On the left, click Manage Apps.
4. Find "WhatsApp" in the list. Note: If your backup is large, WhatsApp might take a few minutes to display.
5. Click Options > Delete Hidden App Data.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Delete the media after it has been restored. Media is located in `WhatsApp\Media`.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_6: Open Google Drive on your phone. Gear button > Settings > Backups. There you'll find WhatsApp backup with the date mentioned. Tap on it and it shows details of the backup. Use the gear button beside it and delete that backup folder. That's it. Give your WhatsApp a force stop and open. You're done ✓
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_7: So disconnecting WhatsApp from Google Drive didn't exactly work out because my chats were also in that Google Drive backup.
However, here is how I was successful in restoring only the chats. (No media).
1. Install WhatsApp and verify the number.
2. Make sure your data connection is active. WiFi should be OFF.
3. Click on restore backup (Entire backup, including Media).
4. It will restore the chats first.
5. Then it prompts that the media will be downloaded over WiFi. Click yes (or next) and it takes you to your profile name and then you have all your chats.
6. At this point, go to Google Drive and disconnect WhatsApp from the Setting - Manage apps. (Settings - Data and Privacy - Apps and Services - Apps with access to your account, Third-party apps with account access)
7. Connect WiFi, or force it to try to resume with data.
8. It would try to restore the media but it would fail.
9. It would ask you if you want to skip it. Might have to try to dismiss the reconnect prompt first.
10. Click skip.
There you go. Only chats were restored. No media. It will prompt that media won't be restored anymore.
You can then reconnect aka relink the Google backup again in the WhatsApp settings.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_8: Easy.
1. Restore your WhatsApp as normal, also restoring the media.
2. On PC, go to Google Drive > Backups > right-click on selected WhatsApp backup, and choose "Turn off backup". Google Drive will prompt you either to delete the backup file in the drive, but you may choose to cancel, so it stays there.
3. Go to your phone and force stop WhatsApp.
Now the media restoring will show fail status.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_9: First of all, don't open WhatsApp. Make your device's internal storage full. It will ask you to try again or cancel (automatic cancel).
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_10: Go to Google settings app → Connected apps → check where WhatsApp is, then disconnect it.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_11: It's very simple and 100% working:
1. Click Restore your messages and wait for loading all the messages
2. After the chat has been loaded, turn off the internet connection. Restoring media will now pause.
3. Go to Settings > Permissions > WhatsApp, and turn off the permission of storage.
4. Open WhatsApp. It will tell you to set the permission on. You have to close that pop-up window.
5. They will ask you to skip the restoration, and it skipped, but all messages will be loaded.
That's it.
Upvotes: 1 |
2015/12/31 | 429 | 1,773 | <issue_start>username_0: Verizon is my service provider. I have a folder on my phone called VZMedia under device storage. Within this folder are more than 10 recordings. The file format of these recordings are .amr. These recordings come in two types. first, some of these recordings are phones calls I have recently made. Second, some of these recordings are of noise around me. for example in some of the recordings I can hear conversations I've had with friends or a TV program I have on while I am at my apartment. the folder continues to be populated with new records every couple weeks. I reached out to Verizon and they said that folder and what it is doing is not associated with them. My guess is one of the apps I have maybe be the cause of this. But this seems like a serious breach of my privacy. I Google search has yielded no help with this issue.<issue_comment>username_1: This is funny, because they have an article about it, related to the S6
<http://www.verizonwireless.com/mobile-living/tech-smarts/how-to-record-audio-smartphone/>
The phone apparently has a pre-installed app for audio recording which may be malfunctioning
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Found several messages about this. I believe it has nothing to do with the voice recorder, as it uses a different format than AMR.
The one consistency i've seen with people experiencing this problem is that they're all using the 'Message+' app for text messaging. It's got a microphone icon next to the input box and it's possible to accidentally activate it.
Go to settings
Applications
App manager
Message+
then
Permissions
You should see on/off switches for microphone, camera, etc.
Turn the Microphone and location switches to 'OFF'
This should eliminate the problem.
Upvotes: 1 |
2015/12/31 | 382 | 1,460 | <issue_start>username_0: So I'm kinda stranded after accidentally wiping out my whole internal storage.
I'm trying to install a temporary ROM e.g CM on it via USB OTG on TWRP.
My phone doesn't have an OS on it. I have no PC with me since I'm on holiday.
I tried downloading the 200 meg CM and found a flash disk lying around.
However it has the Xbox fuse file system on it, which TWRP is not picking up. All I have access to is my Android tablet.
So I'm trying to find some sort of file manager that allows the disk to be formatted. Any leads?<issue_comment>username_1: This is funny, because they have an article about it, related to the S6
<http://www.verizonwireless.com/mobile-living/tech-smarts/how-to-record-audio-smartphone/>
The phone apparently has a pre-installed app for audio recording which may be malfunctioning
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Found several messages about this. I believe it has nothing to do with the voice recorder, as it uses a different format than AMR.
The one consistency i've seen with people experiencing this problem is that they're all using the 'Message+' app for text messaging. It's got a microphone icon next to the input box and it's possible to accidentally activate it.
Go to settings
Applications
App manager
Message+
then
Permissions
You should see on/off switches for microphone, camera, etc.
Turn the Microphone and location switches to 'OFF'
This should eliminate the problem.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/01 | 537 | 2,242 | <issue_start>username_0: I have Huawei Honor 3c. Android v4.4. When I open my contacts list I get the Headers but no content. It may take 4-10 minutes before this refreshes. Once I get the list selecting an individual contact repeats the delay. In some cases once I get the contact selecting "dial" repeats the process yet again.And many times i'm getting the error `Unfortunately Contacts has stopped working`
I've been selectively uninstalling apps to see if one of these has caused the problem. Previously when I had this issue the only advice huawei could give me was to reset my phone to factory defaults. This worked but then the pain returns once system updates occur and apps are installed. Any suggestions? Are there any tools available the show CPU and/or memory utilization so I can see who the hogs are? This might give me a better indication of which processes are sucking up all the resources.<issue_comment>username_1: This is very likely to be caused by a bug in an update, but check with other people who have the same phone to be sure. Assuming you want to keep your system updated, I suggest you move to another contacts app like [Contacts+](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.contapps.android&hl=en), which offer more options than the stock contacts app.
You might use [CleanMaster](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cleanmaster.mguard&hl=en) to see which apps are causing the phone to go slow.
Meanwhile, I would suggest contacting Huawei (if you haven't done so already) so they will fix this issue in a later update.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I constantly had this happening. I tried all suggestions. The problem seemed to be with the stock phone app., as when I downloaded the Truephone app from Playstore it by-passed the 'contacts stopped' window and it works perfectly. So try downloading Truephone.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: In "Contacts Storage" internal app, I uninstalled updates and now it works fine. Remember to take a backup of all your contacts before doing so, as it would erase its internal database (cache).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I had the same issue. I uninstalled the true caller app then it started working properly.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/01 | 1,034 | 3,357 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to root Lenovo vibe p1ma40 with Lollipop 5.1 this particular device since last couple of day, without any success. So I need your help to do this, or not this particular device but it would be good if there will be generic solution for root of android device.
Below is list of techniques that I've already tried :
1) KingoRoot, and other apps - seems they are under development for this particular device.
2) SP Flash Tool([link](http://www.cyberkey.in/how-to-root-lenovo-vibe-p1m/)) - device go to charging mode after step-8.
3) Fast boot([link](http://www.techolaty.com/33952/how-to-root-lenovo-vibe-p1m.html)- METHOD 1) - command **fastboot boot recovery.img** gives error as - FAILED (remote: download for partition 'boot' is not allowed)
**or** - command **fastboot flash recovery recovery.img** gives error as - FAILED (remote: download for partition 'recovery' is not allowed)
4) New Flashing Commands([link](http://www.androidpolice.com/2015/11/15/psa-unlocking-the-nexus-6p-bootloader-requires-the-new-flashing-command-likely-to-become-common-for-many-devices-in-the-future/)) - command **fastboot flashing unlock\_critical** gives unknown command error.
Any help would be highly appreciated, Thanks in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: For [the technique 2 that you have listed](http://www.cyberkey.in/how-to-root-lenovo-vibe-p1m/), you have to install the [**USB VCOM drivers** in your computer](http://thetechnolyte.blogspot.gr/2014/04/installing-vcom-drivers-in-windows-81.html) so that [SP Flash Tool](http://spflashtool.com/) can detect your phone and to enter Download Mode via the USB VCOM port.
>
> This action will add the following drivers in to the operating system:
>
>
> **MediaTek DA USB VCOM Port**
>
> **MediaTek PreLoader USB VCOM Port** – for transferring the firmware to your device
>
> **MTK USB DEBUG Port**
>
> **MTK USB Modem Port**
>
> **MTK USB Port** – for transfering PreLoader to your device (and recovery in case of bad or corrupt firmware)
>
>
> Source:
> <http://laurentiumihet.ro/technology/windows-10-mtk-vcom-usb-drivers-for-32-64-bit-drivers-installation-tutorial/>
>
>
>
This should definitely work and [help you root your phone](http://www.cyberkey.in/how-to-root-lenovo-vibe-p1m/).
---
For [your technique 3 (using fastboot)](http://www.techolaty.com/33952/how-to-root-lenovo-vibe-p1m.html), I think you get the error:
>
> FAILED (remote: download for partition 'recovery' is not allowed)
>
>
>
Because you need to unlock the bootloader to flash the recovery.
This varies a little bit for different phones.
The most common command to unlock bootloader is:
>
> fastboot oem unlock
>
>
>
Before doing this, do this: (this might be required sometimes)
1. Go to settings -> About Phone -> Tap on "Build Version" until it shows developer, may be 7 times.
2. In Settings -> Developer Options -> **Enable OEM Unlock**.
After doing this, still if you're unable to unlock the bootloader or flash recovery using fastboot, I would recommend you to seek further help from the [Lenovo Forums](https://forums.lenovo.com/).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: No need of any other methods. Just use kingroot. Its best. It didn't work for me for about 3 times. 4th time it worked.
Use latest kingroot app
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/01 | 895 | 2,772 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Leagoo Lead 3 running Android 4.4 KitKat. After factory resetting it, I'm no able to add my Google account.
The error I receive is
>
> Couldn't sign in
>
> There was a problem communicating with Google servers. Try again later.
>
>
>
Googling it, I find that the `hosts` file in `/system/etc` needed to be modified to comment out `xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx android.clients.Google.com`, but I don't have this line.
Also, I checked HTTP traffic with Fiddler and I just have this :
>
> "200 HTTP Tunnel to 172.16.58.3:443" with body 0
>
>
>
It seems to be a good Google IP.
I don't know what to check now. Any help will be appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: For [the technique 2 that you have listed](http://www.cyberkey.in/how-to-root-lenovo-vibe-p1m/), you have to install the [**USB VCOM drivers** in your computer](http://thetechnolyte.blogspot.gr/2014/04/installing-vcom-drivers-in-windows-81.html) so that [SP Flash Tool](http://spflashtool.com/) can detect your phone and to enter Download Mode via the USB VCOM port.
>
> This action will add the following drivers in to the operating system:
>
>
> **MediaTek DA USB VCOM Port**
>
> **MediaTek PreLoader USB VCOM Port** – for transferring the firmware to your device
>
> **MTK USB DEBUG Port**
>
> **MTK USB Modem Port**
>
> **MTK USB Port** – for transfering PreLoader to your device (and recovery in case of bad or corrupt firmware)
>
>
> Source:
> <http://laurentiumihet.ro/technology/windows-10-mtk-vcom-usb-drivers-for-32-64-bit-drivers-installation-tutorial/>
>
>
>
This should definitely work and [help you root your phone](http://www.cyberkey.in/how-to-root-lenovo-vibe-p1m/).
---
For [your technique 3 (using fastboot)](http://www.techolaty.com/33952/how-to-root-lenovo-vibe-p1m.html), I think you get the error:
>
> FAILED (remote: download for partition 'recovery' is not allowed)
>
>
>
Because you need to unlock the bootloader to flash the recovery.
This varies a little bit for different phones.
The most common command to unlock bootloader is:
>
> fastboot oem unlock
>
>
>
Before doing this, do this: (this might be required sometimes)
1. Go to settings -> About Phone -> Tap on "Build Version" until it shows developer, may be 7 times.
2. In Settings -> Developer Options -> **Enable OEM Unlock**.
After doing this, still if you're unable to unlock the bootloader or flash recovery using fastboot, I would recommend you to seek further help from the [Lenovo Forums](https://forums.lenovo.com/).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: No need of any other methods. Just use kingroot. Its best. It didn't work for me for about 3 times. 4th time it worked.
Use latest kingroot app
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/01 | 556 | 1,947 | <issue_start>username_0: By mistake I deleted the .EXT folder (which contains a file "su") from the system/bin folder of my Android device.
Is it possible to use ADB to replace this folder?
I have a copy of the Bin folder and would like to Push this to my Android device with ADB push or ADB sideloader.<issue_comment>username_1: There is only one file in that directory so you can rather do this:
```
adb shell su -c mount -o rw,remount /system # remounts the system partition in read-write mode
adb shell su -c mkdir /system/bin/.ext # creates the directory .ext under /system/bin/
adb push LOCAL_PATH/.su /system/bin/.ext/ # replace LOCAL_PATH with the path where your .su file resides in PC
```
If you still insist on pushing the folder, then create a new directory in PC and move `.ext` directory inside it. (We're doing this because adb pushes only the content of a directory). Afterwards, do:
```
adb shell su -c mount -o rw,remount /system
adb push LOCAL_PATH/NEW_DIR /system/bin/ # LOCAL_PATH/NEW_DIR is the path to the new directory you just made in PC
```
For both the cases: it appears that directory has full read-write permission from everyone, given the attributes `rwxrwxrwx`. However, make sure to change the attributes for `.su` to `rwxr-xr-w`. Do:
```
adb shell su -c chmod 755 /system/bin/.ext/.su
```
See [Can't remount /system in rw](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/60446/96277) if my remounting instruction doesn't work.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: let's say you want to push entire C:\framework dir into /system/framework
put yourself in parent dir C:
```
adb push framework /system/
```
done
framework dir will be created automatically, so don't enter i.e. "adb push framework /system/framework/" or it will create a framework subdir
also assume `adb` is in path
of course you need read write permission, so in case of read only /system precede
```
adb remount
```
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/01/02 | 1,378 | 5,177 | <issue_start>username_0: I am trying to root my moto g 3rd gen.
I am following this guide:
<http://theunlockr.com/2015/09/09/how-to-root-the-motorola-moto-g-3rd-gen/>
I am completely stuck on Step 7: installing SuperSu on the device.
**What I did:**
* Unlock booting
* Start via command `adb reboot recovery`
* Get past no command screen
* select zip browsing the file system
* push the zip using the command: `adb sideload C:\...etc\...zip`
**The Zip I am using is this one:**
<https://download.chainfire.eu/696/SuperSU/UPDATE-SuperSU-v2.46.zip>
**The Result:**
```
Finding update package...
Opening update package...
Verifying update package...
E: failed to verify whole-file signature
E: signature verification failed
Installation aborted
```
What can I do from here? Are there better ways to root this particular device? How do I get around this error?<issue_comment>username_1: It seems Moto G 3rd Gen is **very tricky** to root. I spent 2 days trying countless things and having countless problems every step of the way. I drove myself insane with it, however at the end, it worked and my Moto G 3rd Gen is rooted now.
For everyone else experiencing problems with rooting this device here is some info on what to do:
**1. Bootloader Unlock**
This first step of the process is already pretty tricky.
To achive it you need to closely follow the steps on this page:
<https://motorola-global-portal.custhelp.com/app/standalone/bootloader/unlock-your-device-a>
Keep in mind:
The instructions on this page are potentionally (perhaps intentionally) misleading as to trip up unexperienced users. Some things to keep in mind:
1. on Win CMD you don't actually need to type the $ chars displayed in the instructons on this page. Its best to read some basics about handling cmd before doing this, like how to navigate in cmd.
2. you need to install Android SDK and JAVA and than run the program ADB in CMD prompt using admin. This is the path: C:\Users\Username\AppData\Local\Android\sdk\platform-tools\adb
3. You need to install USB drivers. You can find Moto G 3rd Gen Drivers here: <https://motorola-global-portal.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/88481>
4. You need to enable Developer Options on your device by tapping 9 times on "about this phone" in settings.
5. You need to enable OEM unlocking in developer options.
6. You need to enable USB debugging in developer options.
7. You need to be logged in in Motorolla Care in order to get a key, you will need to unlock bootloader, otherwise the form returns a 500.
**2. Installing TWRP**
This step is what ultimately tripped me up. The trick here is, that after installation of TWRP the system restores the old recovery program you want to replace and you always return to square one.
In order to make this one work we need to apply a little bit of trickery.
1. Download TWRP img file and put it somewhere in your windows filesystem
2. Connect your Moto G with USB and start adb in cmd as admin
3. execute this command: `adb reboot bootloader`
4. When the phone reboots into bootloader mode, execute this: `fastboot flash recovery recovery.img` make sure to replace "recovery.img" with the path to your file and the right name of the file. After this one is done, the next step is crucial, otherwise all progress will be lost.
5. Remove your USB cable from the phone
6. Boot straight into recovery without any reboots. To do use the volume keys to select booting mode, select with power button.
7. You should boot into TWRP interface, which is a touch interface with rectangles to click on. If you land on "no command" screen or "system recovery" DOS style screen, you probably need to repeat the installation of TWRP and try to avoid it being automatically replaced / restored to default by the system (this seems to be happening on reboot).
8. In TWRP click Install. Choose SuperSu.zip from your phone file system and install it. Once this is all finished reboot your device, it should be rooted. Use root checker app to check your root status.
Useful tutorial:
<http://theunlockr.com/2015/09/09/how-to-root-the-motorola-moto-g-3rd-gen/>
Only problem with this tutorial is, it doesn't mention that TWRP will be deleted by the system if you reboot. So you need to adjust that part of the tutorial as described here.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I totally understand the situation here as *I just faced it and came out from it.*
The think is simple!
Note many devices will replace your custom recovery automatically during first boot. To prevent this, use Google to find the proper key combo to enter recovery. After typing **fastboot reboot**, hold the key combo and boot to TWRP. Once TWRP is booted, TWRP will patch the stock ROM to prevent the stock ROM from replacing TWRP. If you don't follow this step, you will have to repeat the install.
[This is the official twrp site which you should consider](http://teamw.in/devices/androidone.html)
Read the above link carefully. Note again that you must click the key combo before your android recovery boots, otherwise you have to install the recovery again and again.
Hope I cleared your doubt. Thanks all.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/02 | 1,854 | 6,801 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm using **Sony Xperia Z3 compact** running Lollipop 5.1.1.
My proximity sensor is really faulty (Works only when I press hard on the top left corner of the phone).
I'm sure it's the proximity sensor because I used test apps and I can see it's detecting proximity all the time (unless I press hard on the corner).
Obviously, my biggest problem with that is that my screen goes dark when I make a call (Because the proximity sensor think the phone is near my ear). Trying to use the power button to turn on the screen didn't work so I set the power button to hangup calls (Otherwise I had to wait for the other side to hang up!).
I've seen many (many!) posts about this issue and tried all the apps who claimed to turn off the proximity sensor and non worked (including using the service setting at `*#*#7378423#*#*`) :
* KeepScreen
* Screen On Call
* Screenbl - Screen On/Off Sensor
* Smart Screen On Off
* Disable Proximity Sensor
* Proximity Fix
* Proximity Screen Off Lite
* On Call Proximity
I gave them all admin permissions and whatever they asked, but they all failed... The proximity sensor is just too strong for them I guess...
My only hope is to find an actual dialer app that has an option to ignore the proximity sensor (Used to be a popular option in the past). The Xperia Z3 compact default dialer does not have this option, nor the following dialers I've tried (At least I couldn't find that option):
* Turedialer
* DW Contacts & Phone & Dialer
* Dialapp: KitKat Dialer
* Reactiv Phone Dialer
* Contacts+
* KK Phone (KK Dialer, Lollipop)
* Ready Contacts + Dialer
* pixelPhone Pro
The only app I've found to have this option and it actually worked really well was: **Viber**, but unfortunately Viber cannot be used as a regular dialer but only as viber-to-viber dialer or viber-out dialer (like Skype credit).
So please, if you know of a dialer which you're sure has the option to ignore proximity sensor (or: *'keep screen on during call'* as it sometimes called), please share it with. Any other original ideas will be welcomed as well.<issue_comment>username_1: Using Tasker:
Profile name: Screen on
**Conditions:**
1. Call Any, \*
+
2. Proximity Sensor
**Tasks**
1. Menu (any title, any settings. This is to turn the screen on to show a menu. You can also use *Pop-up* if you want, though it may not work)
2. Display Timeout (To keep screen on immediately after menu has popped up. Set it to any suitable time you wish to)
This worked for me, and lights up the screen during call. It is tough to replicate your problem because I don't have it myself, but you can try it out.
Edit: If you're considering rooting, I guess many apps will work. Also, please check if you have the option of : **Turn on** and **Stay on**. They aren't available on my phone but may be available on yours. Or maybe you *will* need root access for that.
This is what I mean:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/C4jxS.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You could try this solution to *keep screen on during call* using [MacroDroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.arlosoft.macrodroid) automation app (Root not required)
To get an idea of how it works, **settings required, testing/ troubleshooting**, see my [answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/133394/131553).
Additional setting for this solution is from main panel of app *Settings*→*Trigger Options*→ *Proximity Sensor Trigger*→*Enable Work with Screen off*
Your macro would look like this (gets activated once the call is active )
**Trigger**:
*Proximity Sensor* → select *Far* (can be tried with *near* also)
**Action**:
*Screen On/off* →*Screen on*
**Constraints**:
*Call State* →*In call* (Macro runs when you are in call)
**Disclaimer:**
1. Tested on Huawei Honor 6, running Kitkat
2. @Firelord had confirmed, it is not working on his Lollipop version. Don't know if it is Lollipop / ROM / Device related. In the MacroDroid forums, reference is made in one post only to not working satisfactorily on *Moto G* but confirms working fine on *Samsung S5*, both running Lollipop. Request OP to confirm, whether it works or not on his device
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I'm sure some of the solutions that were mentioned here will work for other people but unfortunately, the only solution that worked for me was a hardware solution. I took my phone to a lab and they pressed the screen to the back of the phone with some extra glue. After 24 hours the phone was good as new. As a programmer I was disappointed that no software solution could solve my problem, but I still feel obligated to share my solution.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: Have you tested the Proximity sensor on the device, as this sounds like it may be related.
Try the following.
Menu > Settings > About phone > Diagnostics > Test Device > Tap Ear Proximity
If this fails, make sure to remove any covers or Screen protectors and then test again, if it does work, then the Proximity sensor was being covered or obstructed.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Yeesss! I had the same problem and plan to waste my phone!
Macrodroid help me to resolve issue with proximitity!
Proximity sensor - always tell - NEAR. And i can`t finish a call or input digit - screen was locked.
Remedy is - install Macrodroid and create macros
Trigger: Proximity Sensor → select Near
Action: Screen on
Thats all!
My phone working fine now!!!!!!
Beeshyams, thank you very match for your cool mind and big heart!
p.s I can swith off screen by botton!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: I have actually been having this issue since i bought this phone in February and i have been to lazy to take it back. I decided to call sony after my phone irritated me beyond explainable today and he asked me to go into
- Settings
- About phone (if it is your first time in there click agree)
- Diagnostics
- You then need to select the test tab
- Scroll down all the way to the end and select 'ear proximity'
- Now it will tell you to place your hand over the sensor and if it vibrates it means your sensor is fully functional. If it vibrates from the moment you select ear proximity then your SENSOR IS FAULTY :(
He told me that if i bought it out wright i have to send it to sony for about 14 days so they can see what is wrong with it and if it is repairable... Never again will i make the mistake of buying anything other than apple.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: The only way I managed to work around this issue with Macrodroid was to:
* put the trigger to volume button (up)
* put the action to reject call.
So when I make/receive a call, I can end it with volume up button.
Works on Z3 Compact.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/01/02 | 245 | 988 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to add a new line in checkbox note items in Google Keep app using Android Keyboard (AOSP); but instead, a new checkbox item is added when I do :
* double tap on shift key → enter
* drag from shift key to enter
* long press enter key
I can accomplish the purpose nicely in PC (Google Keep Chrome Extension) with Shift+Enter combination; but how to in Android !?<issue_comment>username_1: Android (AOSP) keyboard:
When you hit the shift key (the one for the capital letters), automatically the key for the smiley (that is at the bottom right) becomes the key to start a new line.
SwiftKey Keyboard: (when keyboard of the letters (alphabetical)).
(from the keyboard of the letters .(a b c ..) simply hold for a moment the key for the smiley, at the bottom right.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: This is not possible at the moment.
Only thing I can think of is to use a clipboard app and copy-paste a soft linebreak into Google keep.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/01/02 | 844 | 3,292 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently bought a new Alba 10" tablet, along with a 32GB microSD card to boost the storage.
My problem is that the SD card isn't functioning as I would expect.
**The expected behaviour**
1. If I insert the card when the tablet is already switched-on I see a *"Preparing SD card"* notification message, which subsequently disappears.
2. If I remove the card when the tablet is already switched-on I get an *"SD card removed unexpectedly: Unmount SD card before removing to avoid data loss"* notification message.
3. The card appears in the tablet's built-in file browser (and other apps I've tried) as a 29.79GB SD card and it appears to work normally (creating/deleting files and folders etc).
**The unexpected behaviour**
When the SD card is present the *Settings->Storage* screen only shows the tablet's internal storage, exactly the same as when the card is not present. This has a few undesirable effects:
* I can't unmount the card to avoid the notification mentioned in "expected" behaviour 2, above.
* I can't change the default write disk. This means that I can't, for example, save photos from the camera app directly to the card.
* I can't move any apps to the SD card.
**Some other points that may or may not be relevant**
* The tablet is running Android 5.0.1 and doesn't appear to have any major customisations.
* The card is a Samsung EVO 32GB microSDHC, bought from a reputable retailer and delivered in sealed packaging, so I'm about as sure as I can be that it's not counterfeit.
* I've tried the card in my PC and it appears to behave normally. I've also tried reformatting it on the PC before retrying in the tablet, with no change in the tablet's behaviour.
**And here are my questions...**
* Is the described behaviour truly unexpected or is it my own expectations that are wrong?
* If this is known behaviour then is there some way to make the SD card show up on the *Settings->Storage* screen?
* If this isn't known behaviour then is there anything else I should try in an attempt to diagnose and/or fix the problem?
* Does it really matter if the problem can't be resolved? Is it likely to be safe to use the card purely as file storage, even if it can't be made to appear on the *Settings->Storage* screen?<issue_comment>username_1: The immediate red-flag is that you are using a Samsung EVO SD card. There have been a huge amount of counterfeits being reported, even from retailers like Best Buy and Target. It even made it on XDA, which explains pretty thoroughly what to look for: [Fake Samsung EVO 64GB SD card - XDA](http://forum.xda-developers.com/general/accessories/fake-samsung-evo-64gb-micro-sd-cards-t2852818)
It doesn't seem, however, that it would affect your Settings app in that manner. I have a few unbranded tablets that handle storage terribly, and I think it's definitely the manufacturer's fault.
If you like Vanilla Android tablets like I do, I would recommend the Dell Venue line of tablets, they are Intel core and handle games and Bochs emulator very well.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: What I do in my situation is **switch off** my device from power menu. wait for a minute or two insert the card and reboot the device. and my phone or tablet whichever device recognize it normally.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/02 | 363 | 1,366 | <issue_start>username_0: How do you save Instagram picture to Android gallery?<issue_comment>username_1: Instagram does not provide any options to download images or videos to the phone. However, you can use third party applications like "Instasave for Instagram" for doing this.
App Link: <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=dstudio.tool.instasave&hl=en>
1. Go to Play Store and Install Instasave application
2. Open Instasave app
3. Press home button and open Instagram App
4. Find image that you want to download
5. Click on Menu button (three dots)
6. Copy Share URL
7. Open Instasave app and you will see your image/video
8. Click on Download icon.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: *IF* you have a rooted device + xposed framework then check out the [instaprefs](https://www.xda-developers.com/instaprefs-xposed-module-instagram-features/) xposed module which adds extra functionality including saving assets:
* <https://www.xda-developers.com/instaprefs-xposed-module-instagram-features/>
>
> ❗️❗️❗️ ***WARNING**: If your device does not have root/magisk/xposed-framework already installed then be aware that trying to install them on incompatible hardware/software versions might BRICK your device and will most likely void your warranty! I would recommend **NOT** using your daily driver device for experimentation.*
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/03 | 971 | 4,155 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a contact that is shown twice in the contacts list. The copies are not from different accounts (so they cannot be joined), they are not two different entries in the same account(so they cannot be merged in Google contacts online), it is exactly the same contact. If I edit one, the other gets also edited.
* I have tried joining them on the phone, it says "contacts joined" but nothing happens. The two copies are still there.
* I have tried deleting the contacts, but when I delete one of them then I cannot access the remaining copy in the list as tapping on it shows the message "the contact does not exist".
* Another strange thing is that one of the copies does not belong to any account at all. When displaying one account contacts only (eg Google contacts, Whatsapp, etc.) it shows only one copy (the same for all accounts containing the contact, it is a joined contact).
* Finally, it is worth mentioning that this happened after installing Whatsapp and this contact has two mobile numbers associated so it appears twice in contact list inside Whatsapp. I do not mind having the same person twice in Whatsapp, but I would like to have only one copy in my contacts list on the phone.
What can I do?
**Edit:** I have removed my Whatsapp account from Settings->Accounts and the duplicated contact has disappeared. As soon as Whatsapp synchronises again, it appears again.
I have also noticed that it is the only contact with two mobile numbers and each of them has its own Whatsapp account so that there are two different entries in the contact list inside Whatsapp. I have other contacts with two mobile numbers but only one of them is associated to a Whatsapp account and appears only once in both Whatsapp and Phone contact lists.
is it then a Whatsapp bug? is there someone else with the same problem?<issue_comment>username_1: Somewhere in Settings you can see **Contacts to display**
Now it shows different options like Show All Contacts, Device Contacts, SIM Contacts, Whatsapp Contacts and of all accounts that you have. Simply select your desired option as mine was to show SIM Contacts.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Due to the lack of details like screenshots, multiple apps I would be answering it as a what's app case
**Principle**: The basic principle is that every name has only one contact number storage space if you're storing it in sim card but if you're storing it in phone memory then only it would support multiple numbers to a single name.
What's app assigns every contact a single number just as in sim storage.
Now if under contact settings/display you select to show all contacts I.e Phone, sim,whats app, email, gtalk etc then you will end up with multiple name display so far that you need to choose a single location where would you Store your contacts (settings menu is standard on all Android phones but only the appearance may vary due to the OEM flavour on top of Android)
-Normally i save all new contacts in sim to have it safe just in case there's system failure and it's formatted and later copy it to the memory card.
-After that I hide the sim contacts display, all other's app contacts display in phone , merge duplicates with this I avoid duplicate display of contacts from each and every app installed and get a summarised display.
**Note**
1. While saving contacts with same name and multiple no on sim card just add a identifiable suffix like name.1 so on so forth.
2. Later once you hide and merge duplicates then you won't get multiple names to worry and what's app would take all the names from sim card so you will get the names as you saved.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Open WhatsApp, goto Settings and un-check "Show all contacts" check-box.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I was getting the same issue in my mobile.
Now I find the below solution for this issue. I am using Mi Note 3.
>
> Go to setting.
> Go to System apps.
> Go to contacts.
> Click on Display preferences.
> Click on Configure contact list and select your google account. (If you want to see only whatsaap contacts then select whatsapp)
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/04 | 626 | 2,653 | <issue_start>username_0: I've found duplicate posts, but they are outdated. The solutions no longer work as some of the apps have been deprecated, and things have changed since 2013. My phone is NOT rooted, I have a HTC ONE M8, running Android 6.0.
I'm in the Middle East (but my Google account is based in the USA since I live there), and I'm trying to download an app that is only available here in the Middle East. However, when I search for the app in my play store, I'm finding only the USA equivalent, which doesn't have the features I need while I'm here. I'm physically not in the USA though, and my sim card is a local one from the Middle East so when I access the play store its weird how I'm still getting US based apps.
I've tried changing my country in payments.google.com > settings, and erased all data of my play store and play services, went back in and its still showing me results for the USA. The only thing that makes sense to me is that somewhere in my google account it still has my country/region as USA. How can I change this? Would creating another account be a good idea? I just don't want to have to sign out of my google account, but if its the only way I guess I'll try that.
If the best solution is creating a google account, I've actually gone ahead and done that, but how do I switch accounts? I don't want to lose any data in the process of switching accounts.<issue_comment>username_1: The best solution I found for this issue which also works for things like getting Netflix content for other regions, is to use a VPN service.
I personally use VPN Unlimited at the moment though there are plenty of others available. However, for the vast majority of these you are required to pay some sort of subscription (luckily I got mine on an offer of lifetime usage for $29.99).
I am in the UK and all I need to do with this app is open it, select a server in the region of choice and then turn on the VPN service and for all intents and purposes any website or app that looks for a region thinks I am in the same region as my chosen server (I usually use one in the US).
I am sure there may be cost free versions available but I suspect they will be at some performance cost such as limited download usage or bandwidth but its worth looking into.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: You could try just downloading the APK file and try installing the app that way.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: There were two ways I was able to solve this. I preferred to use the APK method, but the other method was to create a google account in that country and add it. APK method was cleaner.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/04 | 1,318 | 5,161 | <issue_start>username_0: I travel a lot and having a constantly reliable Internet connection is high on my priority list. Tethering from my phone is often times spotty. Different carriers are good in some areas and poor in others. To further complicate things, sometimes even a good connection can randomly hike packet loss rates and response times.
I'm searching for a solution. Something with much more reliability and consistency to tether my laptop to. I'm willing to pay for multiple carriers. I figure I can set something up with multiple sims that supports multipath tcp and then use a VPN connection to a AWS EC2 instance I setup and control.
So what I'm looking for is a dual active sim device that supports simultaneous LTE on both sims. So the first part of the question is what hardware device supports this?
According to Wikipedia there's a [multipath TCP networking layer for Android](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multipath_TCP). Is this standard in the latest version of Android or is this something I have to manually install?
I figure Android is a good way to accomplish this goal, but in the event that the hardware just isn't available, is there a non-Android solution that would accomplish the same thing while being as portable as a phone? I've seen professional units that accomplish this but they're bulky and have external power requirements that wouldn't fit in my pocket.<issue_comment>username_1: Android's multipath TCP networking layer is only able to use WiFi and Cellular concurrently and can't use multiple of the same connections at once (as far as I know).
However. You can use a mobile WiFi Router from Huawei for example. To get a seamless LTE and WiFi over LTE connection. The Huawei router is very fast and as big as my phone so very easy to carry. It offers about 8 hours of coverage but they have models that are slightly bigger that offer 20 hours.
This way you can use for example Samsung's download boost to use LTE and Wifi at the same time to get double the speeds/reliability. I would suggest you get sim cards from 2 major **different** providers for extra reliability so if one is under maintenance/has low coverage you can rely on the other.
I hope this helped if you have more questions feel free to ask.
\*If you want to double your speed you might also want to look into NIC teaming I think this only works on windows / pc's though
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Google's **Project Fi** is a carrier tailor-made for traveling so you don't need an additional hotspot. It's basically what you're describing above. Fi is less expensive than almost any other US carrier you'll find, aggregates signal from 4 different carriers, doesn't charge extra for international data, and supports voice calling and LTE data in 135 countries. For Project Fi, you'll need a Nexus 5X, Nexus 6P, or Pixel; the Nexus 5X is the cheapest (you can pick one up [from Fi](https://fi.google.com/buy-devices?did=5x&) for $250 unlocked, with no contract).
Calling & texting is cheap and works from almost anywhere in the world—[see the list of 135 countries here](https://fi.google.com/about/rates/)—and data comes from US carriers T-Mobile, Sprint, and US Cellular & UK network Three for $10 per GB. Using your phone as a hotspot is free (data costs the same $10/GB), and they'll even send you up to 10 free data-only SIM cards for your tablets (Android or iPad) and phones (Android or iPhone).
All in all, you might want to consider picking up a Nexus 5X for your travels; my 6P with Fi worked great during a recent trip to Canada.
[Project Fi Website.](https://fi.google.com/about/)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/m9rHY.png)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I would suggest the best solution is speedify for the original poster as this service enables multiple internet connections, including LTE/4G, 3G, Wifi etc to be combined.
The original question caught my interest as I had the same issue with variable mobile coverage whilst on the move. In my example, I'm travelling up and down from Southampton to London Waterloo in the UK daily, I wanted better internet than one operator can provide. South West Trains do offer a free WiFi service which I am told bonds the 4 UK operators, however this is shared among all the passenger so can be unusable at peak times but is OK off peak.
I have awarded the bounty to Joost as they directly answer the original poster's question however I would believe that my answer provides the most flexible solution.
**Update**
For my solution, I'm actually now using Speedify (speedify) - see my write up here: <https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/235813/how-to-use-bluetooth-pan-and-wifi-simultaneously-in-osx/272551#272551>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Support for the Multipath TCP ([RFC8684](https://www.rfc-editor.org/rfc/rfc8684.html)) is [available](https://multipath-tcp.org/pmwiki.php/Users/Android) for some slightly older Android phones, but it requires that the device be rooted. It allows for simultaneous use of WiFi and Celllular connections by TCP connections.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/04 | 2,699 | 9,355 | <issue_start>username_0: I leave my phone (Samsung Galaxy 4 GT-I9506, Android 5.0.1 lollipop) charging on my table when going to sleep. It reaches full after some hours often. It is so annoying when the display becomes bright after battery reaching full, awakening me.
I know the thread [How to prevent brightness from going to full when the battery low popup appears?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/120088/9897) about the prevention of bright display when the battery goes low. The rooted device seems to be the only choice to change the default behavior. I have unsuccessfully installed *CyanogenMod* in the device a few times. I am open about other ways to root this device and change its default behavior.
Settings > Display does not have any features by which you can alter the brightness mode. It would be great to customize the brightness in different modes, etc when the battery is low. In the link, the user did not want to consume extra battery with display when the battery was extremely low.
I installed Firelord proposed, Tasker, where I am working the automation. I probably need to root my phone for sufficient change.
---
How can you prevent brightness when battery reaches full in Android?<issue_comment>username_1: As suggested by @username_2, you could try with tasker or use MacroDroid
Automation is the preferred option, or rather only option in this case. Many apps are available. I prefer using [MacroDroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.arlosoft.macrodroid) , since it is free (upto 5 macros) and easy to learn. To understand how MacroDroid works and the **settings** required for your Android version, see my [answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/120088/how-to-prevent-brightness-from-going-to-full-when-the-battery-low-popup-appears)
**Note** This is not tested on Lollipop as I am on KitKat but should work. Ensure appropriate settings for lollipop are made
Your macro would look like this
**Trigger**:
*Battery Level* → *increases to* → (choose percentage preferred by you on sliding scale or 100 %)
**Actions**:
* *Brightness* →*0* (*Choose On sliding scale- doesn't require root*)
* *Wait before next action* → set to 10 seconds (recommended to separate previous and next actions ensuring both happen)
* *Dim Screen* →*Dimmer On* → 10% (*Choose On sliding scale- doesn't require root, if the earlier action is not good enough for you* - this is akin to "screen filter" apps like [Darker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mlhg.screenfilter))
**Constraints**:
*Time of Day* →*Start Time* 2200 →*End Time* 0600 (assuming that's your sleep time)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You may come close but cannot prevent that behavior unless there is a setting unbeknownst to you or the device is rooted. No matter what [automation](/questions/tagged/automation "show questions tagged 'automation'") app you use, the brightness would be set to maximum whenever the battery level reaches 100% and in a matter of few milliseconds, it would revert to whatsoever you want it to be. My solution takes care of that problem. Originally posted [here](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/133506/96277).
The file named `max_brightness`, a file under `/sys`, hence a part of Linux kernel and directly managed by it, appears to be the key to the solution. I found that setting the brightness limit in that file is one of the best ways to tackle the issue.
I noticed that once your custom maximum brightness is set, neither Android nor an app was able to set brightness beyond that custom level unless they changed the content of that file, which often an app has no reason to and none of them changed either. Besides, the file is owned by root and is part of group root, so any app or even system\_server would require root privilege to make changes into that file.
Finding that file is bit tricky. In my MTK device with Android 4.2, that file appears to be under `/sys/devices/platform/leds-mt65xx/leds/lcd-backlight/`.
In my Qualcomm device with Android 5.0.2 and above, the file appeared to be in `/sys/devices/mdp.0/qcom,mdss_fb_primary.168/leds/lcd-backlight/`.
I assume that the best way to find that file is to run a search query (setup [adb](/questions/tagged/adb "show questions tagged 'adb'") for that), such as:
(Requires [busybox](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=stericson.busybox))
```
adb shell su -c 'find /sys/ -type f -iname "max_brightness"'
```
In my Qualcomm device, the output it gives is:
```
/sys/devices/f9924000.i2c/i2c-2/2-0068/leds/red/max_brightness
/sys/devices/f9924000.i2c/i2c-2/2-0068/leds/blue/max_brightness
/sys/devices/f9924000.i2c/i2c-2/2-0068/leds/green/max_brightness
**/sys/devices/mdp.0/qcom,mdss\_fb\_primary.168/leds/lcd-backlight**/max_brightness
/sys/devices/qcom,camera-led-flash.81/leds/torch-light/max_brightness
/sys/devices/msm_sdcc.1/leds/mmc0::/max_brightness
/sys/devices/msm_sdcc.2/leds/mmc1::/max_brightness
/sys/devices/01-qcom,leds-d300/leds/led:flash_torch/max_brightness
/sys/devices/01-qcom,leds-d300/leds/led:flash_0/max_brightness
/sys/devices/01-qcom,leds-d300/leds/led:flash_1/max_brightness
/sys/devices/01-qcom,leds-e200/leds/kpdbl-lut-2/max_brightness
/sys/devices/01-qcom,leds-e200/leds/kpdbl-pwm-3/max_brightness
/sys/devices/01-qcom,leds-e200/leds/kpdbl-pwm-4/max_brightness
/sys/devices/01-qcom,leds-e200/leds/button-backlight/max_brightness
```
The location where `lcd-backlight` is mentioned was the only one that made sense to me and this is how I found the file in my device. Don't you worry asking about others. I attempted changing the brightness of the screen and looked for the changes in the file named `brightness` (also located under those said locations). None of them reflected the correct output other than the one at `/sys/devices/mdp.0/qcom,mdss_fb_primary.168/leds/lcd-backlight`.
Only for demonstration, try setting a limit in `max_brightness`
```
adb shell su -c 'echo LIMIT > PATH_TO_MAX_BRIGHTNESS' # in my case PATH_TO_MAX_BRIGHTNESS is /sys/devices/mdp.0/qcom,mdss_fb_primary.168/leds/lcd-backlight/ and set LIMIT to a value less than 30 (not limited to).
```
Now try maxing the brightness by using brightness slider or a third party app and you would notice that the brightness of your screen doesn't exceed beyond a certain point even when slider or the app's configuration appears to be at maximum. The brightness for that "certain point" would certainly be less than the default one you are used to.
**Note** that the maximum value in max\_brightness is often found to be 255 and the brightness ranges from 0-255. Often, not always true, that is. And *fear not from setting the limit to 0. It would cause the screen not to lit until you revert the changes or restart the device.*
Find a limit which would not disturb you in your sleep.
---
Automation
==========
For [automation](/questions/tagged/automation "show questions tagged 'automation'"), use any automation app that can run a command with root privilege and when the context of your preferred trigger is met. I recommend a time based trigger.
Some working examples:
* In [Tasker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.dinglisch.android.taskerm), setup a profile with your preferred context, create a task and use the action: Code → Run Shell:
+ Command: `echo LIMIT > PATH_TO_MAX_BRIGHTNESS`
+ check Use Root
* In [MacroDroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.arlosoft.macrodroid), setup your preferred trigger and for action install [Secure Settings](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.intangibleobject.securesettings.plugin), choose it → Actions → Run Command:
+ Command: `echo LIMIT > PATH_TO_MAX_BRIGHTNESS`
+ check Use Root
* In [Automate](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.llamalab.automate), as part of your flow, when setting up an action for your trigger, select *Shell command superuser* under Apps and do:
+ Command Line: `echo LIMIT > PATH_TO_MAX_BRIGHTNESS`
Make sure to install all the permissions the flow require.
* In [DroidAutomation](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wakdev.droidautomation.free), setup your trigger and under task, select Root → Execute a command line and type: `echo LIMIT > PATH_TO_MAX_BRIGHTNESS`
As you would've guessed, you would have to setup two profiles for every app. One to setup a limit and the other to set the maximum brightness to the default you're used to.
---
I would like you to **keep this under consideration** (even though you got a hint at the beginning) that using a 100% battery trigger would defeat the purpose of this answer, which is to override the changes Android want to make. As an example, if you setup LIMIT to 0 whenever the battery reaches 100%, what would happen is your Android would lit the screen to maximum as usual and in few milliseconds (you read correctly) your automation app would run and set the limit. Your sleep may get interrupted in those milliseconds.
The workaround is to set up the battery level to 99 or less for full battery charge.
That said, I wouldn't be surprised if you avoid rooting considering that that the biggest compromise you would be making in using an answer with non-root approach is of not accounting those pesky but only milliseconds.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/05 | 304 | 1,060 | <issue_start>username_0: In Facebook Messenger in the web browser or the messenger app, there is a thumbs up sticker button out by default. People I know changed it to some other icons by default, but I can't ask them how.
I don't see any option for it, yet somehow it was changed. After you change it, it will say
>
> set the emoji to .
>
>
>
Can anyone tell me how to change it?<issue_comment>username_1: Using Facebook Messenger, at the conversation window, go to:
**Details (top-right) --> Emoji --> Pick your Emoji.**
There's no option to change Emoji using the web version yet.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Bt8j.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Tslv.png)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Mine doesn't show the option of the I either - you have to go into a chat and click the persons name at the top - there it will give you the option to change color text and emoji :)
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/05 | 388 | 1,330 | <issue_start>username_0: From a youtube.com page open in Firefox, is there a straight-forward way to open the video using the YouTube app?
Firefox version 43.0<issue_comment>username_1: This may be a solution. You can make the video open in the YouTube app when you press the little Android icon in the right corner of the address bar while you're on the site!
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_1: Well I have another answer. There's an extension on Firefox called [Open Native App](https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/android/addon/open-native-app/), which as the name suggests, opens things in their native apps.
From its "About this add-on"
>
> A simple extension I created after getting frustrated with my device opening native links in Firefox rather than it's native app. Creates a menu option in your Firefox menu called "Open in Native App" which will trigger the Android intent app chooser for the link currently open.
>
>
> This is confirmed working for the following:
>
>
> * Play Store (play.google.com)
> * YouTube (youtube.com)
> * IMDB (imdb.com)
> * Wikipedia (wikipedia.org)
> * Foursquare (foursquare.com)
>
>
> Not working for:
>
>
> * Tumblr (tumblr.com)
> * Google+ (plus.google.com)
> * Facebook (facebook.com)
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/01/05 | 529 | 1,965 | <issue_start>username_0: My current Android phone Samsung Galaxy S4 (GT-I9506, Android 5.0) has much outdated software and OS. I would like to get much faster update cycle. The current Android and Samsung support cannot provide it. Therefore, I am thinking about rooting my device and possibly this way speeding up the update cycle.
I have installed CyanogenMod in my unrooted device unsuccessfully a few times. I think the failure may be due to the unrooted device. I think you cannot get the full control of the device without the rooting and thus insufficient updates in your device.
Can a rooted Android device have more regular update cycle? However, I am not sure if rooting can make the update cycle worser because of possible loss of the main developers' support in the device and OS.<issue_comment>username_1: This may be a solution. You can make the video open in the YouTube app when you press the little Android icon in the right corner of the address bar while you're on the site!
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_1: Well I have another answer. There's an extension on Firefox called [Open Native App](https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/android/addon/open-native-app/), which as the name suggests, opens things in their native apps.
From its "About this add-on"
>
> A simple extension I created after getting frustrated with my device opening native links in Firefox rather than it's native app. Creates a menu option in your Firefox menu called "Open in Native App" which will trigger the Android intent app chooser for the link currently open.
>
>
> This is confirmed working for the following:
>
>
> * Play Store (play.google.com)
> * YouTube (youtube.com)
> * IMDB (imdb.com)
> * Wikipedia (wikipedia.org)
> * Foursquare (foursquare.com)
>
>
> Not working for:
>
>
> * Tumblr (tumblr.com)
> * Google+ (plus.google.com)
> * Facebook (facebook.com)
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/01/05 | 530 | 2,127 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an HP Stream 7 that I'm not using here (since I've bought my Asus T100), and I was thinking about putting an Android to run, instead of the Windows OS. I know that is possible, but my question is: is it viable? Has someone already tested this using the same model? Does it have any problems with drivers, or something that Android does not recognize? If it works, I'll definitely give it a shot.<issue_comment>username_1: After a little bit of work, I was able to run an Android live version at the HP Stream 7. Unfortunately, it's a little bit buggy, mainly because there is no drivers available for the device. I will make some researches on, to see what I can find. Thanks for the answer
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Drivers are the largest issue, trying this. LUbuntu (ubuntu lite) or XUbuntu (runs x11 gui manager, even lighter) BUT, you'll need to know the CPU type on your tablet. Most all 'nix' software is ported to run on x386 (aka Intel Atom) processor. The ARM architecture is more of a challenge. NOOBS the standard Raspberry Pi image, gives you a 50/50 chance.! IMHO Some of the ARM xuntu distributions would probably run fine. You'll have to read on those OS and Platforms. The new Allwinner Tech ARM CPU's are forcing their way into being the ARM standard. you'll then have to worry about drivers, & not be afraid of downloading and installing APK files... good luck, keep us posted. I have a couple allwinner white box tablets, that bricked themselves, it would be nice to have them run "something" , even if it's a remote video cam to watch the kid go in/out of the house!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: It's months later, I can add a new ponderance to your problem and the solution.
All Android OS on any device is really a Java Virtual Machine.
Download for Linux, Windows, Mac.... the Android SDK you can build from almost any version, to almost any hardware. You will have to read, read, read.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: no you cant, its just impossible. Drivers are a huge problem as android os needs not available on the stream 7
Upvotes: -1 |
2016/01/05 | 435 | 1,810 | <issue_start>username_0: I have failed to install CyanogenMod a few times in my Samsung Galaxy 4 (GT-I9605, Android 5.0.1 lollipop) in unrooted device. I still want to get CyanogenMod in my device so I am thinking to root my device and start the installation process 3rd time.
Is CyanogenMod easier to install in rooted device than unrooted?<issue_comment>username_1: Well, AFAIK you need a custom recovery, so that you can flash the ROM from the .zip file. You can maybe flash a custom recovery using PC software, but there are tools that rely on root access to do such things on-the-fly without requiring a PC.
I usually install CM using .zip files through recovery, and I need root to be able to flash custom recovery on my phone.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You usually cannot install a new or custom ROM without a rooted device that I am aware of. The nature of the process to install a new ROM pretty much means you have to have root for the installation to perform the required actions involved.
This is especially true for mainstream commercial devices such as the Samsungs, LGs, HTCs etc as they root protect their devices for security and to prevent people messing with their own customisations to the Android OS.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Both yes and no. You need custom recovery to flash CyanogenMod. If you have root with the non-recovery method, you can install the ROM manager from the Play Store, which makes the installation of a custom recovery rather simple.
From there, you just download the CM zip and flash it. Note that the ROM manager does have install ROM as a feature, so you can install from zip and it should automatically reboot to recovery and flash (but I think it works with CWM only, as I have TWRP and it just reboot).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/05 | 390 | 1,682 | <issue_start>username_0: When the user inserts the sim card and activates, can the cellular network provider detect what phone the user uses?
Like say Motorola Droid.
Or at least the phone is a smartphone or not?<issue_comment>username_1: Well, AFAIK you need a custom recovery, so that you can flash the ROM from the .zip file. You can maybe flash a custom recovery using PC software, but there are tools that rely on root access to do such things on-the-fly without requiring a PC.
I usually install CM using .zip files through recovery, and I need root to be able to flash custom recovery on my phone.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You usually cannot install a new or custom ROM without a rooted device that I am aware of. The nature of the process to install a new ROM pretty much means you have to have root for the installation to perform the required actions involved.
This is especially true for mainstream commercial devices such as the Samsungs, LGs, HTCs etc as they root protect their devices for security and to prevent people messing with their own customisations to the Android OS.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Both yes and no. You need custom recovery to flash CyanogenMod. If you have root with the non-recovery method, you can install the ROM manager from the Play Store, which makes the installation of a custom recovery rather simple.
From there, you just download the CM zip and flash it. Note that the ROM manager does have install ROM as a feature, so you can install from zip and it should automatically reboot to recovery and flash (but I think it works with CWM only, as I have TWRP and it just reboot).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/05 | 666 | 2,511 | <issue_start>username_0: I've recently started trying to dabble in custom ROMs, or even just trying to boost an old phone with a newer version of Android, but there doesn't seem to be a conclusive place online to find out what ROMs are supported by what phones (and how to root any given phone), what ROMs are available out there in the world in general, it all seems a bit... messy!
So here's my example for my question: I have an [Obi S453](http://gadgets.ndtv.com/obi-fox-s453-2082), how can I find out what ROMs I might be able to install?<issue_comment>username_1: This site offers a fairly comprehensive coverage to the questions asked by you:
* [Where can I find stock or custom ROMs for my Android device?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/17152/where-can-i-find-stock-or-custom-roms-for-my-android-device)
* [How do I root my Android device?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/1184/how-do-i-root-my-android-device)
* [How do I update Android on my device?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/13510/how-do-i-update-android-on-my-device)
Coming to your device in particular, it appears there is lack of developer support to create custom ROMs as a quick search (not comprehensive ) did not provide any evidence. Even the OEM, it looks like has not come out with any plans to update to Lollipop, whereas most popular phones have the next version Marshmallow rolled out or in the process of rolling out.
Possible reasons for lack of developer support, in general, could be (i am not a developer, so guessing):
* Chipset being not developer friendly
* Not a popular phone compared to low cost "budget phones"
* Kernel and chip set information not "open source"
* Difficulty in porting custom ROM from another ROM
* OEM not coming up with a improved versions of phone
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You find out by checking your model number (my case is SM-G800F). Then you go to the custom ROM and look at the "name" of the build. Mine would be kminilte, which would support even other phones very similar to mine.
You can Google your model number to see. Alternatively, the ROM download page usually contains the market name (so S5 mini and kminilte in small text).
If a device is not supported, you can download a version of a phone very similar to yours. Then either risk and test if it works, or edit the ROM for support on your phone (called porting). There are many guides on porting and rebuilding a ROM similar to your phone.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/05 | 242 | 1,063 | <issue_start>username_0: I know this is supposed to be a feature but it's just plain annoying at this point. Anytime I plug in my headphones, it will automatically open up whatever my primary music player is (PowerAmp right now) and start playing the first audio file it finds.
I seem to remember there was an option in the phone's settings to change this but I can't find it. Checked "Xperia Connectivity" and "Sounds and Notifications".
Suggestions?<issue_comment>username_1: It's the Smart Connect app. You can simply toggle it off under the Events tab.
Smart Connect starts up any app or action that you have associated with specific accessory such as Headphones.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I found the solution. It ended up not being in Smart Connect as @username_1 suggested; though I did check that and find everything disabled.
The issue was a setting within PowerAmp itself that was turned on called "audio on headset connect". I disabled that and it fixed my problem.
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions!
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/06 | 640 | 2,724 | <issue_start>username_0: I am trying to solve something here.
I am trying to figure out a way to control an android device with an external touchscreen display. The android device would either be a Samsung Galaxy Tab A or a Galaxy Alpha. I have seen many connectors that allow you to display the screen from a tablet onto a tv or monitor but no easy way on controlling it using the larger screen (probably due to the video output on the tablet not supporting touch signals?). I have seen a few threads on various blogs that can just about manage this but they seem to be out of date and I can't see why this isn't easier.
Ideally, the external monitor needs to be larger than 20 inches and be a capacitive touch screen rather than a resistive type. I am using this as a control surface for music production and performance and sadly, the screen size on available tablets isn't big enough.
I would really appreciate any kind of input. I hope I'm not being a complete idiot and that this is really easy to do. Please let me know either way. Thanks
\*Edit: Ideally, I would like to be able to use the tablet without the external screen as normal when I want. The extra screen size would be an added, optional extra.<issue_comment>username_1: If both devices are Samsung they have a brand specific app called SideSync which will allow you to link the two devices via a WiFi network. It's available via the play store or direct from Samsung.
I currently have an S6 edge, a galaxy tab S and a Samsung Smart tv and can control the phone or tablet via the tv and the also the phone via the tv or tablet.
Not too sure if you can control the tv or tablet via the phone as I've had no reason to try.
I have never come across an app which works in the same way if any of the devices aren't a Samsung but I've used this app with my current setup and with the old setup of S4, Tab 2 and older Samsung Smart tv I've owned over the last 12-18 months with no issues.
I hope this answers your question.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Touchscreens are basically two devices. The image to the monitor is usually fed from the tablet via mhl or hdmi. The touch functionality is via usb to the Android tablet or phone from the monitor. You need a dock of some description which provides mhl/hdmi out and also usb into the tablet, unless your tablet has separate ports for these, in which case you would need a usb otg adaptor cable and an hdmi/mhl cable. If the tablet supports HID (human interface device) input it should work to some degree as it would see it as a mouse or touch pad. Since android 4, support for multitouch has improved so it might work. If I get it working I will let you know.
Good luck
username_2
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/06 | 297 | 979 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to root an unlocked Nexus 2013 Wifi. TWRP and CWM are unable to mount /data, /cache, or /system in recovery mode. TWRP reports internal storage of 0 MB. The system boots normally outside of recovery mode.
A soft-bricked restore with WUG didn't fix it. I've tried manually flashing TWRP and CWM with fastboot in VMWare Ubuntu, WUG in VMWare Windows 7, and in OS X, but the issue persists.<issue_comment>username_1: I was able to get the partitions mounted by using the TWRP recovery image [posted here](http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-7-2013/nexus-7-2013-qa/mount-recovery-t3064562), I then followed the simple [rooting instructions here](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/37760/how-do-i-root-my-nexus-7).
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: On TWRP (not sure bout CWM), only Data is mounted by default. You have to mount it with the mount option. Be sure to enable MTP (mount point) just in case
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/06 | 2,393 | 7,910 | <issue_start>username_0: Smartphones seem to die after two years of usage, as if they knew that you just have paid the last instalment.
The common reason seems to be the failure of internal memory.
I'm desperately trying to have my phone escaping from this cruel destiny.
The idea I initially had seemed simple, but the web didn't seem to share my optimism.
This is the idea:
- create ext4 partitions in sd card
- mount at boot sdcard partitions to `/data` and `/cache` (and maybe `/preload` and `/efs` if they ever get written)
I'd like to know what's wrong with this idea and why it cannot work, but the main question is:
Can I stop writing to internal memory for good?
I've seen all the apps out there (app2sd, link2sd, DirecoryBind, s2e , you name it) and all of them seem to relocate subdirectories, never the main `/data` .
Any help will be highly appreciated.
Thank you!<issue_comment>username_1: Eureka!
Here is how I've done it:
SD card partition and format
============================
Unsure about which partitions I would have been able to relocate, I decided to recreate my sd card with the exact same layout of my Samsung Galaxy S III internal memory.
`USERDATA` is the last partition and there is a good reason for it:
my sd card size is greater then the internal memory and the best option has been to widen `USERDATA` till the possible furthest sector.
The following work has been done in my linux pc:
```
parted /dev/sdb mklabel gpt \
mkpart BOTA0 ext2 8192s 16383s \
mkpart BOTA1 ext2 16384s 24575s \
mkpart EFS ext2 24576s 65535s \
mkpart PARAM ext2 65536s 81919s \
mkpart BOOT ext2 81920s 98303s \
mkpart RECOVERY ext2 98304s 114687s \
mkpart RADIO ext2 114688s 180223s \
mkpart CACHE ext2 180224s 2277375s \
mkpart SYSTEM ext2 2277376s 5423103s \
mkpart HIDDEN ext2 5423104s 6569983s \
mkpart OTA ext2 6569984s 6586367s \
mkpart USERDATA ext2 6586368s 60749824s
```
Good, partitions created.
Now, still mimicking my Android device, I format partitions accordingly:
```
# /efs
mkfs.ext4 /dev/sdb3 -E root_owner=1001:1000
# /system
mkfs.ext4 /dev/sdb9 -E root_owner=0:0 -L system
# /cache
mkfs.ext4 /dev/sdb8 -E root_owner=1000:2001
# /preload
mkfs.ext4 /dev/sdb10 -E root_owner=0:0
# /data
mkfs.ext4 /dev/sdb12 -E root_owner=1000:1000
```
The sd card is ready, now I can "backup" files from emmc to the appropriate sd card partition, taking care to preserve file attributes.
Edit `fstab`
============
In the not too old versions of Android, `fstab` file seems to be always located at `/`.
Files in `/` are stored in the `BOOT` partition (`boot.img`);
it's time to learn to edit the `boot.img`.
Here are two very helpful tutorials that will get you going:
[HOWTO: Unpack, Edit, and Repack Boot Images](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=443994)
[Android boot.img manipulation](http://k.japko.eu/boot-img-manipulation.html)
a little hint:
~~Do edit the ramdisk in your Android device.
I spent three days in frustration trying to do so in my pc, I guess is a matter of "endianness".~~
When editing the ramdisk, do sort `name-list`(standard input) for `cpio`.
I spent three years in frustrating randomly recurring failures.
---
My `fstab` before:
```
/dev/block/mmcblk0p3 /efs ext4 noatime,nosuid,nodev,journal_async_commit,errors=panic wait
/dev/block/mmcblk0p9 /system ext4 ro,noatime wait
/dev/block/mmcblk0p8 /cache ext4 noatime,nosuid,nodev,journal_async_commit,errors=panic wait
/dev/block/mmcblk0p10 /preload ext4 noatime,nosuid,nodev,journal_async_commit wait
/dev/block/mmcblk0p12 /data ext4 noatime,nosuid,nodev,noauto_da_alloc,journal_async_commit,errors=panic wait,check,encryptable=footer
```
My `fstab` after:
```
/dev/block/mmcblk0p3 /efs ext4 noatime,nosuid,nodev,journal_async_commit,errors=panic wait
/dev/block/mmcblk1p9 /system ext4 ro,noatime wait
/dev/block/mmcblk1p8 /cache ext4 noatime,nosuid,nodev,journal_async_commit,errors=panic wait
/dev/block/mmcblk1p10 /preload ext4 noatime,nosuid,nodev,journal_async_commit wait
/dev/block/mmcblk1p12 /data ext4 noatime,nosuid,nodev,noauto_da_alloc,journal_async_commit,errors=panic wait,check,encryptable=footer
```
All I have changed is the block number (from 0 to 1).
I couldn't dare yet to relocate `EFS`, someone said that somehow you may brick the device playing around with that, still studying the subject; I do know that Android keeps writing `EFS` (I'm monitoring it).
Conclusions and further queries
-------------------------------
This is how I relocated the most of my internal storage data to my external sd card.
Things are slightly sluggish, as expected, but Android seems to be in perfect working order;
I can always invest in a faster sd card in the future.
I did all of this with my Samsung Galaxy S III stock ROM, you will obviously have to adapt to your circumstances.
When I finally installed CyanogenMod 13 (we don't want stock firmware, do we!?) things were a bit different.
With a wiped `/data`, CM is spending some time at boot populating `/data` and at a certain point it just give up, reboot and goes to recovery mode.
After several attempts I gave up and relocated `/system` in internal memory, now everything is fine.
I do know that `/system` is mounted as read only, but I noticed that emmc lifespan is defined as amount of read/write cycles, maybe suggesting that, unlike hard drives, reading is as detrimental as writing.
If that's the case I'd be most grateful if someone could tell me why in CM I cannot successfully relocate `/system`.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: @username_1 you have raised a very good concern. Having some embedded knowledge, I can give some idea about this:
When you switch ON a device, it is programmed to boot from specific memory location. This memory location is *hardwired* to internal memory.
Usually in *demo* embedded devices, we have a small switch which we can use to switch between different BOOT devices - it may be internal, external, even serial port.
But in *production* or commercial devices, this switch will be removed.
So, it is next to impossible to boot directly from external memory.
I wish some companies can provide a option(like switch) to boot from external memory even if internal memory goes wrong.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I have been successfully able to boot from SD card on QMobile Z8 by:
* Replicating eMMC partition table by partitioning SD card on a Ubuntu machine using `parted` and `fdisk`
* Flashing factory firmware images to these newly created partitions using `dd`
* Modifying **fstab.qcom** & **init.tegra.rc** files in kernel (`boot.img`) and **recovery.fstab** and **uneventd.rc** files in TWRP recovery to initiate mounting and booting from SDCard instead of internal memory
It was successful after some experiments. I think this method should be applicable to any device with similar configuration. However, files to be edited may vary from device to device.
If you want to put only apps' external data to SD card and not the whole partition, you can edit **fstab** in **boot.img** and **storage list** in **framework-res.apk** on Android 5 and older.
For more details: [[HOW TO] BOOT FROM SD CARD [SUCCESSFULLY] on QMobile Z8 with BRICKED/DEAD eMMC](https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/help/how-to-boot-sd-card-qmobile-z8-bricked-t3712171)
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/06 | 1,505 | 4,337 | <issue_start>username_0: I have OnePlus One with CyanogenMod 12 from factory and I decided to update to CM 13 (nightly build).
To achieve this I did the following from OSX:
1. Unlock the bootloader (fastboot oem unlock)
2. Boot TWRP (fastboot boot twrp-2.8.6.0-bacon.img)
3. From TWRP I installed CM 13 (cm-13.0-20160105-NIGHTLY-bacon.zip) and GAPPS (open\_gapps-arm-6.0-pico-20160105.zip)
4. I also installed the latest Cyanogen Recovery (cm-13.0-20160105-NIGHTLY-bacon-recovery.img)
5. For some reason, I felt like leaving things as they were, and I relocked the bootloader (fastboot oem lock)
Now, I cannot unlock the bootloader anymore in order to do things like install/boot a custom recovery tool (like TWRP)
Running 'fastboot oem unlock' just reboots the device in recovery mode, but the bootloader remains locked:
```
$fastboot oem device-info
...
(bootloader) Device tampered: true
(bootloader) Device unlocked: false
(bootloader) Charger screen enabled: false
(bootloader) Display panel:
(bootloader) console_enabled: 0
(bootloader) exec_console_unconsole: 0
```
A solution would be appreciated, but I am also curious why it behaves like this after a manual lock.
As suggested by @Firelord, there seems to be a solution for Windows users here: <https://forums.oneplus.net/threads/important-bootloader-wont-unlock-after-relock.324398/><issue_comment>username_1: In my search, I came across an interesting [thread](http://forum.xda-developers.com/oneplus-one/development/mod-reset-unlock-tamper-bit-t2820912) that was related, but in order to install their script, you need to have a custom recovery tool installed or to be able to boot into it (e.g. fastboot boot recovery.img).
I had the stock Cyanogen Recovery tool and I couldn't boot into TWRP because of my actual problem (cannot unlock bootloader anymore), so I dug inside their [script](http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2859187&d=1405749374) and used the content meant to reset the **lock** and **tamper** bits of the bootloader.
Now I could run the commands manually if I had **root access** and luckily, in CM 13 ROM, you can enable it from 'Developer options' menu.
Here are the commands I used after enabling root access for ADB:
```
adb root # restart the adbd daemon with root permissions
adb shell # run remote shell interactively
dd bs=1 count=1 skip=1048080 if=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot 2>/dev/null | xxd | cut -c 10- # print the lock bit state (00 - locked, 01 - unlocked)
echo -ne "\x01" | dd bs=1 count=1 seek=1048080 of=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot # set the lock bit to unlocked(01)
dd bs=1 count=1 skip=1048084 if=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot 2>/dev/null | xxd | cut -c 10- # print the tamper bit state (00 - untampered, 01 - tampered)
echo -ne "\x00" | dd bs=1 count=1 seek=1048084 of=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot # set the tamper bit to untampered(00)
```
Result:
```
$fastboot oem device-info
...
(bootloader) Device tampered: false
(bootloader) Device unlocked: true
(bootloader) Charger screen enabled: false
(bootloader) Display panel:
(bootloader) console_enabled: 0
(bootloader) exec_console_unconsole: 0
```
---
I guess the tamper bit is changed the first time you unlock the bootloader (fastboot oem unlock) and after you lock it back (fastboot oem lock) it won't allow you to re-unlock.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If `xxd` and `cut` do not exist in locations available in $PATH (as it was in my case), prefix `busybox` in those commands.
```
# print the lock bit state (00 - locked, 01 - unlocked)
dd bs=1 count=1 skip=1048080 if=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot 2>/dev/null | busybox xxd | busybox cut -c 10-
# set the lock bit to unlocked(01)
echo -ne "\x01" | dd bs=1 count=1 seek=1048080 of=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot
# print the tamper bit state (00 - untampered, 01 - tampered)
dd bs=1 count=1 skip=1048084 if=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot 2>/dev/null | busybox xxd | busybox cut -c 10-
set the tamper bit to untampered(00)
echo -ne "\x00" | dd bs=1 count=1 seek=1048084 of=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot
```
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/07 | 1,298 | 3,910 | <issue_start>username_0: I understand [what Android permissions mean](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/38388/what-do-android-application-permissions-mean) and I have a specific question about two telephony permissions.
I've been using [XPrivacy](https://github.com/M66B/XPrivacy) for a while and noticed that many apps that ostensibly have nothing to do with the low-level telephony features, nevertheless make repeated calls to [`getSimOperatorName()`](http://developer.android.com/reference/android/telephony/TelephonyManager.html#getSimOperatorName()) and [`getNetworkOperatorName()`](http://developer.android.com/reference/android/telephony/TelephonyManager.html#getNetworkOperatorName()). MyFitnessPal Calorie Counter is one such app.
What need would ordinary apps have to call these methods?
For example, why would MyFitnessPal care I'm using AT&T or Verizon, when the app could be running just fine on a Wi-Fi only device?<issue_comment>username_1: In my search, I came across an interesting [thread](http://forum.xda-developers.com/oneplus-one/development/mod-reset-unlock-tamper-bit-t2820912) that was related, but in order to install their script, you need to have a custom recovery tool installed or to be able to boot into it (e.g. fastboot boot recovery.img).
I had the stock Cyanogen Recovery tool and I couldn't boot into TWRP because of my actual problem (cannot unlock bootloader anymore), so I dug inside their [script](http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2859187&d=1405749374) and used the content meant to reset the **lock** and **tamper** bits of the bootloader.
Now I could run the commands manually if I had **root access** and luckily, in CM 13 ROM, you can enable it from 'Developer options' menu.
Here are the commands I used after enabling root access for ADB:
```
adb root # restart the adbd daemon with root permissions
adb shell # run remote shell interactively
dd bs=1 count=1 skip=1048080 if=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot 2>/dev/null | xxd | cut -c 10- # print the lock bit state (00 - locked, 01 - unlocked)
echo -ne "\x01" | dd bs=1 count=1 seek=1048080 of=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot # set the lock bit to unlocked(01)
dd bs=1 count=1 skip=1048084 if=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot 2>/dev/null | xxd | cut -c 10- # print the tamper bit state (00 - untampered, 01 - tampered)
echo -ne "\x00" | dd bs=1 count=1 seek=1048084 of=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot # set the tamper bit to untampered(00)
```
Result:
```
$fastboot oem device-info
...
(bootloader) Device tampered: false
(bootloader) Device unlocked: true
(bootloader) Charger screen enabled: false
(bootloader) Display panel:
(bootloader) console_enabled: 0
(bootloader) exec_console_unconsole: 0
```
---
I guess the tamper bit is changed the first time you unlock the bootloader (fastboot oem unlock) and after you lock it back (fastboot oem lock) it won't allow you to re-unlock.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If `xxd` and `cut` do not exist in locations available in $PATH (as it was in my case), prefix `busybox` in those commands.
```
# print the lock bit state (00 - locked, 01 - unlocked)
dd bs=1 count=1 skip=1048080 if=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot 2>/dev/null | busybox xxd | busybox cut -c 10-
# set the lock bit to unlocked(01)
echo -ne "\x01" | dd bs=1 count=1 seek=1048080 of=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot
# print the tamper bit state (00 - untampered, 01 - tampered)
dd bs=1 count=1 skip=1048084 if=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot 2>/dev/null | busybox xxd | busybox cut -c 10-
set the tamper bit to untampered(00)
echo -ne "\x00" | dd bs=1 count=1 seek=1048084 of=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot
```
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/07 | 1,181 | 3,476 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Moto G 3rd generation, and updated it with latest Android version (24.11.25). After the Update the icons for some APP disappeared.
I think it were all the applications i had moved to my SD card.
The APP is not showing on my desktop neither on the menu that shows all applications, but its still installed, because i can open the APP from its page on play store and it is on the list of installed applications on the config page.
How can i restore the icons to these apps?<issue_comment>username_1: In my search, I came across an interesting [thread](http://forum.xda-developers.com/oneplus-one/development/mod-reset-unlock-tamper-bit-t2820912) that was related, but in order to install their script, you need to have a custom recovery tool installed or to be able to boot into it (e.g. fastboot boot recovery.img).
I had the stock Cyanogen Recovery tool and I couldn't boot into TWRP because of my actual problem (cannot unlock bootloader anymore), so I dug inside their [script](http://forum.xda-developers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2859187&d=1405749374) and used the content meant to reset the **lock** and **tamper** bits of the bootloader.
Now I could run the commands manually if I had **root access** and luckily, in CM 13 ROM, you can enable it from 'Developer options' menu.
Here are the commands I used after enabling root access for ADB:
```
adb root # restart the adbd daemon with root permissions
adb shell # run remote shell interactively
dd bs=1 count=1 skip=1048080 if=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot 2>/dev/null | xxd | cut -c 10- # print the lock bit state (00 - locked, 01 - unlocked)
echo -ne "\x01" | dd bs=1 count=1 seek=1048080 of=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot # set the lock bit to unlocked(01)
dd bs=1 count=1 skip=1048084 if=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot 2>/dev/null | xxd | cut -c 10- # print the tamper bit state (00 - untampered, 01 - tampered)
echo -ne "\x00" | dd bs=1 count=1 seek=1048084 of=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot # set the tamper bit to untampered(00)
```
Result:
```
$fastboot oem device-info
...
(bootloader) Device tampered: false
(bootloader) Device unlocked: true
(bootloader) Charger screen enabled: false
(bootloader) Display panel:
(bootloader) console_enabled: 0
(bootloader) exec_console_unconsole: 0
```
---
I guess the tamper bit is changed the first time you unlock the bootloader (fastboot oem unlock) and after you lock it back (fastboot oem lock) it won't allow you to re-unlock.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If `xxd` and `cut` do not exist in locations available in $PATH (as it was in my case), prefix `busybox` in those commands.
```
# print the lock bit state (00 - locked, 01 - unlocked)
dd bs=1 count=1 skip=1048080 if=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot 2>/dev/null | busybox xxd | busybox cut -c 10-
# set the lock bit to unlocked(01)
echo -ne "\x01" | dd bs=1 count=1 seek=1048080 of=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot
# print the tamper bit state (00 - untampered, 01 - tampered)
dd bs=1 count=1 skip=1048084 if=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot 2>/dev/null | busybox xxd | busybox cut -c 10-
set the tamper bit to untampered(00)
echo -ne "\x00" | dd bs=1 count=1 seek=1048084 of=/dev/block/platform/msm_sdcc.1/by-name/aboot
```
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/07 | 1,305 | 4,241 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a new Redmi 2 Pro and I am unable to sign in to my google account.
I have `Android 4.4.4 KTU84P` version and `MIUI 77.00.99`.
I'v already tried to login with other google accounts, I disabled 2-step-verification and DisplayUnlockCaptcha. I Cleared data/cache of play store, account manager, service framework. All tries were unsuccessful.
I can login to my gmail through the browser on my phone.
The error message: **Couldn't sign in/There was a problem communicating with Google servers/ Try again**.
Apps used to sign in: `Google Account Manager 4.4.4-1227136` and `Google Play store version 5.4.12` (these apps are initially installed on the phone)
Steps to sign in on the phone:
1. Add google account -> Existing account -> user+password -> error message
2. Start Google Play Store -> Existing account -> user+password -> error message
**UPDATE**
After a long night search, I found out that the phone came with a vendor specific ROM, namely `77.00.99.00`. The official version looks like `7.1.0.0`. So, I'm thinking to flash the ROM. I have no idea what else is installed beside the official package.<issue_comment>username_1: 1.- Root your device (of course)
2.- Editing the file
You will need a proper editor
On your device open your browser and go to: www.ghisler.com/android.htm
Download and Install Total Commander for Android... and open it
OR DOWNLOAD BELOW
3.- Browse with Total Commander to root/etc
(hint: on the right side of the screen there's a shortcut to system folder.. look for etc/ and you will find it)
Long tap on "hosts" > edit file > Totalcmd-Editor
Open etc/hosts and edit the file. Just put # before 172.16.58.3 android.clients.google.com.
4.- SAVED
Edited file should look like this:
127.0.0.1 localhost
172.16.58.3 android.clients.google.com
========================================
remember: based on my own observation it should be look like this:
127.0.0.1(just one space)localhost
172.16.58.3(just one space)android.clients.google.com
=======================================================
5.- Turn OFF your device.
6.- Got it on Recovery Mode
7.- Factory reset, wipe data.
8. Reboot your device.
9. Once the phone reboots, input your google account information when the phone asks for it.
10.- Sync to your account and contacts
METHOD 2:
1. Make sure you have a ROOT ACCESS on your Device.
2. Install Root Explorer, Run App, Grant SU Access.
3. Browse root / etc... at the top of your screen you will see mount R/O and mount R/W...
4.Tap mount R/W
5.Look for host file, long press it and open with text editor.
6. just Add # (pound sign) on the first number.
like this:
172.16.58.3(just one space)android.clients.google.com
=======================================================
SAVE IT and Reboot.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Actually the problem was with the ROM, Gearbest replaced the official one with a buggy one. I flashed the `latest stable global ROM MIUI 7.1.1.0` with a little trick described by **Bilhouse** in the miui global forum [here](http://en.miui.com/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=115492&page=11#lastpost.)
The steps are as follows:
1. downloaded the `Latest Stable Global ROM` from [here](http://en.miui.com/a-234.html) for `Redmi 2 version 2014813`
file: wt88047\_global\_images\_V7.1.1.0.KHJMICK\_20151209.0000.6\_4.4\_global
2. downloaded the `China ROM` for mobile version `2014811`, I used the one mentioned in this post [here](http://en.miui.com/forum.php?mod=redirect&goto=findpost&ptid=94587&pid=1844478). file name wt86047\_images\_5.4.3\_4.4\_cn\_94aabfc129
3. from the China ROM I copied `NON-HLOS.bin` file and replaced the one in the Global ROM - if you don't do this than you wont have a functional network module and you wont be able to connect to any network.
4. Flashed the ROM with `fastbool` as described in my first link.
5. At my first try of flashing, I encountered an error massage: **mismatching image and device** in fastboot, which I solved by changing the name of the folder from `wt88047...` to `wt86047...` after this I was able to flash the ROM and tired again but this time the folder name should start as ti was originally wt88047...
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/07 | 488 | 1,797 | <issue_start>username_0: I just bought one of [these](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00MTB017K):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FkmCT.jpg)
It was fairly cheap so, unsurprisingly, in "Settings" I don't see any way to select "developer mode".
How can I go about enabling developer mode (USB debugging) to install apps via ADB?<issue_comment>username_1: If its an Android Wear watch (and it seems so) there is no options on the watch directly. It depends on the phone it is paired with, and all the options are available on your phone.
I have a Moto360 and I also don't have any developer options on my watch. If you plan to develop for Android Wear, you need to install everything on your phone, which will push all needed resources to your watch.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You should follow the steps mentioned here: [Creating and Running a Wearable App](http://developer.android.com/training/wearables/apps/creating.html).
It's quite similar to the phone : go to **Settings -> About**, then tap on the **Build Number** seven times. It will enable the **Developer Options** where you can enable **ADB Debugging**.
If you can't connect your watch to your computer via USB, you can always enable the Bluetooth debugging following these steps : [Debugging over Bluetooth](http://developer.android.com/training/wearables/apps/bt-debugging.html)
1. Enable **Debug over Blutooth** on Developer Options on the watch
2. Enable **USB Debugging** in the Android Wear app settings on your phone
3. Execute these adb commands :
```
adb forward tcp:4444 localabstract:/adb-hub
adb connect localhost:4444
```
If the second command fails, try replacing *localhost* with *127.0.0.1* .
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/07 | 399 | 1,679 | <issue_start>username_0: I have multiple personal Google calendars (all under the same email address), and I have an Exchange calendar for work.
I'd like to use the Google Calendar app for my personal calendars and alerts, and then use the Business Calendar app for my work calendar. I have widgets set up for each app, running okay.
Here's the rub: If I open Google Calendar, and disable display of my work calendar in there, it also disables it in the Business Calendar app. And vice versa.
So my question is: can you have multiple calendar apps on the same device without them interfering with each other?
Nexus 6p, running Android 6.0.1 Marshmallow<issue_comment>username_1: There is a simple way to do it- only keep the account you want to use with a calendar app setup in Accounts (like your personal calendar). Then open a browser to view your other calendar there. It's not a great solution but simple, especially if you make a shortcut to that webpage on your phone's home screen. (Note: if both are gmail accounts, don't use Chrome if you have signed in as both accounts there. Use another browser or your phone's default internet app.)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: This may not be the solution to your problem, but this is what I do to choose which calendar(s) to display on the app.
I see that you use Business Calendar app, which I am also using. Under "Calendars & Task lists" setting you are able to "favorite" your calendar(s) to be displayed at the bottom by tapping on the star(s) on the right. Once done, I just have to tap on the bottom buttons (those favorite) to switch between my personal and business calendars.
Hope this helps.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/07 | 727 | 2,448 | <issue_start>username_0: I would like to know if is it possible to connect my smartphone to a pc via USB without charging it?
It would be very useful to be able to disable charging (but still allow USB tethering, ADB debugging, file transfer etc).
Thanks a lot.<issue_comment>username_1: You can try these solutions, which directly address what you are trying to achieve (may not work on all devices)
* adb commands from [ADB Useful Commands](https://sites.google.com/site/adbusefulcommands/)
>
> Adb shell echo 0 > /sys/class/power\_supply/battery/charging\_enabled (1 to disable; 0 to enable)
>
>
>
* adb [setprop-persist](https://www.codeaurora.org/cgit/quic/le//platform/system/core/)
* [Disable USB charging](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/54902/disable-usb-charging/)
If these methods don't work or you want to explore more possibilities, see methods below, which can offer you clues
* **On your Device:**
* As suggested by [Firelord](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/133661/how-to-connect-samsung-j7-via-usb-but-disable-charging#comment167945_133661). Be aware that you would need time in identifying the right file to change values to fool the system. Naming of files related to this is apparently not standardised. One of the answers in the link is mine so I am talking from experience.
* You could also see this for another way it has been done <https://stackoverflow.com/questions/11698979/how-to-change-android-usb-connect-mode-to-charge-only>
* **On your PC:** You have not mentioned your PC configuration, but these have been successfully tried add may give you pointers
* <https://serverfault.com/questions/8130/configure-usb-port-to-only-act-as-power-source-charger>
* <https://stackoverflow.com/questions/11698979/how-to-change-android-usb-connect-mode-to-charge-only>
* **Modifying the connector hardware** (recommended since earlier two options ate Android and Windows version dependent but you would need to try doing the opposite these methods are opposite to your need)
* <http://www.instructables.com/id/VGA-to-USB-power/>
* <http://www.instructables.com/id/USB-Condom>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Yup, you should be able to use the adb command. Or use an app I just released to disable usb charging in Android phone. Has not been tested on Samsung j7 though.
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.bramantya.stopcharging&hl=en>
It needs root access.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/08 | 1,214 | 4,820 | <issue_start>username_0: **When online**
When I am connected to Wi-Fi, I am able to say "Okay Google" from any screen and it will automatically start a voice search for me and look up whatever I say. I am also able to manually start a voice search by tapping the microphone button at the top of my homescreen on the right side of the Google search bar, and my phone will search for anything I say. Lastly, when I am using the on-screen keyboard to type I can hit the small microphone button in the corner and speak whatever I want to type (which it will instantly change to text, but I have to hit the "x" with my finger to make it stop).
**When offline**
When I go offline (not connected to Wi-Fi or data), however, things start getting weird. I can bring down the white pull-down menu for voice search by saying "Okay Google," but after I am finished talking it will stay stuck loading on "Recognizing" for a while, until finally it will say "Can't Reach Google at the moment" (see image 2).
After messing around with things for a while, I finally got it so that when I am offline and hit the microphone button on the keyboard, I can speak my sentence and then after an absurdly long wait it will translate it into text (I don't know if this is normal or just my phone).
**What I've tried/what my specs are**
I have a Moto-X (second gen.). My OS is fully updated (as far as I'm aware – Android 5.1.1), and I have the most recent version of the Google app (version 5.7), the most recent Google Now Launcher app (version 1.3.large), and the most recent version of the Google+ app in case that matters (version 6.9).
In my Settings>Language & input>Google Keyboard, it is set to "English (US)."
Settings>Language & input>Google voice typing, it is set to "Automatic" and inside that the "Languages" is set to "Default language: English (US)."
Settings>Language & input>Google voice typing>Offline speech recognition, I have "English (US)" installed.
**My Question**
Why do the Google offline voice commands not work when I am offline and how do I make it work?
\*Answers as to why the keyboard text-to-type takes forever when offline are appreciated to but they're not my main concern for this question. Thanks! :)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FnjKH.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7xmXP.png)
Screenshots - Click to enlarge
**EDIT:** As of October 2016, I got a new phone (the Moto G4 Plus) and it has the exact same problem. All the symptoms are identical and I cannot use the voice commands unless I have Internet connection, and the offline voice-to-text is really slow (still not my main concern). It has the most recent version of Marshmallow (Android 6) installed.
**EDIT 2:** Occurs on Android 7 now as well. But I found out it was the Google App, not the phone or OS specifically. (see answer below)<issue_comment>username_1: There are two apps involved in this case. First one is Voice-To-Text engine app. Other one is Google app.
The app you start by hitting the mic on keyboard is the former one. It normally relies on Internet to work, however, can be made to work offline too. I can't explain the reason of the long wait though. Maybe it tries to connect to internet first and then, when it fails, it switches back to working offline method.
The app that you start by saying *Ok Google* is the latter one in this case. It also uses Voice-To-Text engine in the background, however, it uses the input it receives from your microphone, directly to start a Google search. Which is impossible to perform when offline, and therefore, it fails.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Okay, over a year later I have finally figured out what is going on. My carrier apparently uses "MQTT protocol," which means they need the Cellular Data option on to send texts (however, they have their own app set up to make sure that sending texts doesn't count toward your monthly data allotment).
**The problem is that when the Cellular Data option is turned on, the Google app thinks that it should have Internet connection even when it doesn't.** In my case, I don't pay for any data but I have to keep the "Cellular Data" option always on, as previously mentioned. But this makes the Google app not recognize that the phone is offline, and so internally it doesn't switch over to its "offline mode" and that's why the Offline Commands don't work and it doesn't recognize speech. I tried turning off my Cellular Data (while not connected to wifi) and the offline features worked as expected.
This means that I am not able to use Google's offline features, though, unless I turn off Cellular Data. And when I turn that off I won't be able to receive texts. So I can't have both :(
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/08 | 520 | 2,136 | <issue_start>username_0: I have managed to install TWRP using Odin on my Samsung Galaxy Note 2 (GT-N7100). Installed TWRP version `twrp-2.8.7.0-t03g.img.tar`. It is showing External Sdcard (0MB).
Why is that so? Can anyone help me out?<issue_comment>username_1: There are two apps involved in this case. First one is Voice-To-Text engine app. Other one is Google app.
The app you start by hitting the mic on keyboard is the former one. It normally relies on Internet to work, however, can be made to work offline too. I can't explain the reason of the long wait though. Maybe it tries to connect to internet first and then, when it fails, it switches back to working offline method.
The app that you start by saying *Ok Google* is the latter one in this case. It also uses Voice-To-Text engine in the background, however, it uses the input it receives from your microphone, directly to start a Google search. Which is impossible to perform when offline, and therefore, it fails.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Okay, over a year later I have finally figured out what is going on. My carrier apparently uses "MQTT protocol," which means they need the Cellular Data option on to send texts (however, they have their own app set up to make sure that sending texts doesn't count toward your monthly data allotment).
**The problem is that when the Cellular Data option is turned on, the Google app thinks that it should have Internet connection even when it doesn't.** In my case, I don't pay for any data but I have to keep the "Cellular Data" option always on, as previously mentioned. But this makes the Google app not recognize that the phone is offline, and so internally it doesn't switch over to its "offline mode" and that's why the Offline Commands don't work and it doesn't recognize speech. I tried turning off my Cellular Data (while not connected to wifi) and the offline features worked as expected.
This means that I am not able to use Google's offline features, though, unless I turn off Cellular Data. And when I turn that off I won't be able to receive texts. So I can't have both :(
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/08 | 1,611 | 6,005 | <issue_start>username_0: I am using Micromax Canvas Nitro A310; recently, I bought a new USB cable and it seems its not doing the job as required.
My phone is not getting charged as it was before. Either it takes too long or the battery indicator not change to even 1% after being plugged on for 2-3 hours.
I am using **[Ampere](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gombosdev.ampere)** app to check current and voltages with different USB cables and found that the one which I bought recently is showing very low current observations (230-250mA).
Need to know what are the normal ratings.<issue_comment>username_1: The voltage and current rating of your battery won't be the problem. It will be the quality and rating of the cable you are using.
Different qualities of cable will handle different amounts of current and this is what will allow your battery to charge at different rates (assuming a suitable charger is used).
The fastest type of cable would be a USB 3.0 compatible one as these are designed to handle much larger currents by default. At this time a standard Android device is likely to require at least a USB 3.0 compatible cable so that it can handle enough current to charge your device at a reasonable rate. You also want to buy a reasonable quality one and not just any old cheap variety.
Based on the battery your device is shipped with (Li-Ion 2500 mAh battery), you want a cable that is capable of handling at least 2.0A (2000mA) - the more the better as the device will draw what it needs and certainly no more than your charger can supply.
The other thing to check is that your battery is not "dying" and not holding charge.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Firstly one needs to understand [C-rate or charge rate](http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/what_is_the_c_rate). Quoting from the linked article
>
> C-rate is a measure that governs at what current a battery is charged and discharged. At 1C, a battery rated 1,000mAh charges at a current of 1,000mAh. In an ideal world the battery would be fully charged in 60 minutes. At 1C, the same battery discharges at 1,000mA.
>
>
>
1. Li-Ion or Li-PO (both have same charge/discharge characteristics) -typically charged between 0.5 C to 0.8 C, more often closer to 0.8 C (as a thumb rule, depends on a lot of other factors like charging algorithm,"quick charging" ,OEM specific charging protection methods etc)
2. Next, one has to account for charging efficiency which is typically 90% for Li-Ion chargers, so effective charging rate would be about 0.7C (=90% of 0.8 C)
3. Your device battery is 2500mAh as per information on net, so the charging rate in mA =0.7\*2500= 1750 or less = 900 mA ( =90% of 0.5C\* 2500) if your charger is charging at 0.5C (**Edit** OP has confirmed in comments that his charger is 1A rated, so the charging rate appears to be 0.5 C)
4. This is the current your app should show using standard 2A,5V wall charger (rare to find lesser rated chargers these days)
5. USB charging is much slower as [USB 3.0](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB) give only 900 mA and USB 2.0 gives 500mA (refer linked Wikipedia)
6. Current drawn for charging is NOT uniform. Li-Ion batteries go through three stages of charging of battery charging [Figure 1 of Charging Li-Ion batteries](http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries)- Constant Current, Saturation Charge (current decreases), Ready (almost zero current). If you plot current drawn using your app while charging a battery from 10% or lower to 100%, you would observe this. So this had to be borne in mind while measuring. As a typical example of this graph plotted on charging my phone see [this](https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/6406/charging-a-smartphone-battery-while-using-it)
**tl:dr;**
So much for theory, coming to your question:
1. *Need to know what are the normal ratings* Explanation above should have made it clear that there is no normal or standard rating being dependent on C-rate, battery capacity, charging efficiency, charging algorithm, source of charging and in which stage of charging it was measured
2. It is not clear from your question whether the readings are obtained while charging from a wall charger (definitely very bad if that is the case ) or from USB charging from laptop (bad)
3. USB cable purchased seems to be a suspect. While buying USB cables go in for shorter and thicker USB cables (they offer less resistance to current) compared to longer and thinner cables as normally available (offer more resistance to current and hence slower charging). You can always test the current using your app before buying. Alternatively Google for *24/28 awg micro USB* cable and purchase that. I would suggest latter option, though more expensive but lasts across many phones you may own over a period of time (A robust Blackberry cable purchased ten years ago is still doing good)
4. To estimate charging time required considering all the factors enumerated, use the [Battery Charge Time Calculator](http://www.csgnetwork.com/batterychgcalc.html)
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: First of all, I would like to thank everyone who helped me understanding what can be the problem exactly; I am posting it as an answer because this is what solved my issue.
The problem was neither with the charger nor with the USB cable. The real culprit was an *extension cord* which was offering very high resistance probably.
Since my socket is at a certain height, i was using an extension cord to extend my USB. I observed readings from both ends, keeping extension cord and then removing it. I found huge difference in the current ratings. It came as 230 mA and 770mA respectively.
Now, I am using a home made mobile holder while charging and removed the extension completely from the circuit. Everything seems to be working as expected.
Hope this helps someone else who is encountering same issues using extension cables.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/08 | 1,664 | 6,413 | <issue_start>username_0: Apps like Llama let you use location-related properties (such as Wi-Fi network visibility) to trigger automation actions such as putting the phone on silent, but they do this by running as a background service and polling for Wi-Fi networks or directly for location.
The Google Play Services library contains a geofencing facility, which allows apps to define geofences and to be started in response to (the phone) entering or leaving those geofences.
Since Google Play Services already needs to run and update my location for things like Google Now and Location History to work, I'd like to be able to use this to have it automate things on my phone, without having an extra service in memory all the time and running periodically. Is there a way I can set this up on my phone? Perhaps there's an app like Llama but using Google Play Services geofences instead of Wi-Fi, or a way to configure Tasker so that it only runs when triggered by a geofence I define. (I've never used Tasker.)<issue_comment>username_1: The voltage and current rating of your battery won't be the problem. It will be the quality and rating of the cable you are using.
Different qualities of cable will handle different amounts of current and this is what will allow your battery to charge at different rates (assuming a suitable charger is used).
The fastest type of cable would be a USB 3.0 compatible one as these are designed to handle much larger currents by default. At this time a standard Android device is likely to require at least a USB 3.0 compatible cable so that it can handle enough current to charge your device at a reasonable rate. You also want to buy a reasonable quality one and not just any old cheap variety.
Based on the battery your device is shipped with (Li-Ion 2500 mAh battery), you want a cable that is capable of handling at least 2.0A (2000mA) - the more the better as the device will draw what it needs and certainly no more than your charger can supply.
The other thing to check is that your battery is not "dying" and not holding charge.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Firstly one needs to understand [C-rate or charge rate](http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/what_is_the_c_rate). Quoting from the linked article
>
> C-rate is a measure that governs at what current a battery is charged and discharged. At 1C, a battery rated 1,000mAh charges at a current of 1,000mAh. In an ideal world the battery would be fully charged in 60 minutes. At 1C, the same battery discharges at 1,000mA.
>
>
>
1. Li-Ion or Li-PO (both have same charge/discharge characteristics) -typically charged between 0.5 C to 0.8 C, more often closer to 0.8 C (as a thumb rule, depends on a lot of other factors like charging algorithm,"quick charging" ,OEM specific charging protection methods etc)
2. Next, one has to account for charging efficiency which is typically 90% for Li-Ion chargers, so effective charging rate would be about 0.7C (=90% of 0.8 C)
3. Your device battery is 2500mAh as per information on net, so the charging rate in mA =0.7\*2500= 1750 or less = 900 mA ( =90% of 0.5C\* 2500) if your charger is charging at 0.5C (**Edit** OP has confirmed in comments that his charger is 1A rated, so the charging rate appears to be 0.5 C)
4. This is the current your app should show using standard 2A,5V wall charger (rare to find lesser rated chargers these days)
5. USB charging is much slower as [USB 3.0](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB) give only 900 mA and USB 2.0 gives 500mA (refer linked Wikipedia)
6. Current drawn for charging is NOT uniform. Li-Ion batteries go through three stages of charging of battery charging [Figure 1 of Charging Li-Ion batteries](http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries)- Constant Current, Saturation Charge (current decreases), Ready (almost zero current). If you plot current drawn using your app while charging a battery from 10% or lower to 100%, you would observe this. So this had to be borne in mind while measuring. As a typical example of this graph plotted on charging my phone see [this](https://engineering.stackexchange.com/questions/6406/charging-a-smartphone-battery-while-using-it)
**tl:dr;**
So much for theory, coming to your question:
1. *Need to know what are the normal ratings* Explanation above should have made it clear that there is no normal or standard rating being dependent on C-rate, battery capacity, charging efficiency, charging algorithm, source of charging and in which stage of charging it was measured
2. It is not clear from your question whether the readings are obtained while charging from a wall charger (definitely very bad if that is the case ) or from USB charging from laptop (bad)
3. USB cable purchased seems to be a suspect. While buying USB cables go in for shorter and thicker USB cables (they offer less resistance to current) compared to longer and thinner cables as normally available (offer more resistance to current and hence slower charging). You can always test the current using your app before buying. Alternatively Google for *24/28 awg micro USB* cable and purchase that. I would suggest latter option, though more expensive but lasts across many phones you may own over a period of time (A robust Blackberry cable purchased ten years ago is still doing good)
4. To estimate charging time required considering all the factors enumerated, use the [Battery Charge Time Calculator](http://www.csgnetwork.com/batterychgcalc.html)
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: First of all, I would like to thank everyone who helped me understanding what can be the problem exactly; I am posting it as an answer because this is what solved my issue.
The problem was neither with the charger nor with the USB cable. The real culprit was an *extension cord* which was offering very high resistance probably.
Since my socket is at a certain height, i was using an extension cord to extend my USB. I observed readings from both ends, keeping extension cord and then removing it. I found huge difference in the current ratings. It came as 230 mA and 770mA respectively.
Now, I am using a home made mobile holder while charging and removed the extension completely from the circuit. Everything seems to be working as expected.
Hope this helps someone else who is encountering same issues using extension cables.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/08 | 357 | 1,239 | <issue_start>username_0: In most Linux systems Netcat is installed by default. Is any Netcat-like application installed by default in Android OS?<issue_comment>username_1: Not natively. You first need to install a Terminal application like "Termux" <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.termux&hl=en> then "Busybox" <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=stericson.busybox&hl=en>. Here is some info on all of the tools included in the Busybox package <https://www.busybox.net/downloads/BusyBox.html>
There are also several other Netcat style applications available from the Google Play store - <https://play.google.com/store/search?q=netcat&c=apps&hl=en>
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: In recent Androids (e.g. Nougat and later), you don't need to install busybox for running netcat; it is enough to get a terminal and then type:
>
> `toybox nc [options]`
>
>
>
and you will have the usual netcat functionality.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: There is a simple GUI app anyone can use without prior knowledge in netcat.
[<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nikedlab.netcat&hl=en][1]>
It also has port scanning facility with filtering ports and timeout.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/09 | 487 | 1,738 | <issue_start>username_0: The title says most of it. I have a key pair setup on kgpg running under Kubuntu 12.04 Linux on my notebook. My smartphone (Galaxy S3) has no SD card slot.
I want to be able to transfer files between my notebook and my smartphone. Since I don't have a card reader for the phone yet, I figured I could do it using email or dropbox.
But both of those ways expose the files to other people and I would prefer they were encrypted.
The first file I want to send is my password vault from my notebook and although it's encrypted itself, I really need to be sure it's locked tight before it gets anywhere near the Internet.<issue_comment>username_1: Not natively. You first need to install a Terminal application like "Termux" <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.termux&hl=en> then "Busybox" <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=stericson.busybox&hl=en>. Here is some info on all of the tools included in the Busybox package <https://www.busybox.net/downloads/BusyBox.html>
There are also several other Netcat style applications available from the Google Play store - <https://play.google.com/store/search?q=netcat&c=apps&hl=en>
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: In recent Androids (e.g. Nougat and later), you don't need to install busybox for running netcat; it is enough to get a terminal and then type:
>
> `toybox nc [options]`
>
>
>
and you will have the usual netcat functionality.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: There is a simple GUI app anyone can use without prior knowledge in netcat.
[<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nikedlab.netcat&hl=en][1]>
It also has port scanning facility with filtering ports and timeout.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/09 | 804 | 2,934 | <issue_start>username_0: Here is the sound on YouTube: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-H5ZOVelLEw>
*The sound video was uploaded by a person who has the same problem as me, though he has a smartphone of another model. In general, there are not few people asking the question but the solution still has not been found. I would like to place the links to the people's questions but I don't have enough reputation to put more than 2 links here.*
I checked the /system folder and **/system/media/audio/ui** folder particularly and found the sound fallbackring.ogg only in the latter. But this is not the sound produced by the volume buttons (as I have learnt it is an input call sound playing when the Bluetooth is turned on and used).
Then I have found the page [http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2378177](https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2378177) where the screen unlock system sound is replaced. The sound is situated in **/system/framework/framework-res.apk**. So I copied the framework-res.apk file and all the .apk files from /system/priv-app (as in the folder there are .apk files whose names sound like system: SystemUI.apk, Settings.apk, IputDevices.apk and etc. on my smartphone) to my PC, converted them to ZIP and searched there for any .ogg, .mp3 and .wav files. I have found some .ogg and .mp3 system sounds but not the volume button system sound and I have also found files like open.wav, open\_bluetooth.wav, success.wav and failure.wav but I managed to play them with VLC media player neither on Windows nor on Linux and, still, their names have nothing in common with the volume button.
So here is my small investigation. Could someone, please, give me a tip where the annoying beep sound can be kept? Or, maybe, is it produced with hardware of the smartphone? I will appreciate any help.<issue_comment>username_1: Not natively. You first need to install a Terminal application like "Termux" <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.termux&hl=en> then "Busybox" <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=stericson.busybox&hl=en>. Here is some info on all of the tools included in the Busybox package <https://www.busybox.net/downloads/BusyBox.html>
There are also several other Netcat style applications available from the Google Play store - <https://play.google.com/store/search?q=netcat&c=apps&hl=en>
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: In recent Androids (e.g. Nougat and later), you don't need to install busybox for running netcat; it is enough to get a terminal and then type:
>
> `toybox nc [options]`
>
>
>
and you will have the usual netcat functionality.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: There is a simple GUI app anyone can use without prior knowledge in netcat.
[<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nikedlab.netcat&hl=en][1]>
It also has port scanning facility with filtering ports and timeout.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/09 | 423 | 1,490 | <issue_start>username_0: Today I tried to play a video but my media volume was on zero.
I used the volume button on my phone but it did not increase the media volume. I then went to the settings --> sound --> media but I could not change the media volume from zero.
The reason i could not change the media volume was because media volume slider was grayed out... So I could touch or change it in any way.
It's a very unintuitive problem and many others seem to have it if you [Google](https://www.google.com/search?q=volume+stuck+on+mute+zero+site%3Aandroid.stackexchange.com&rlz=1Y3TXLS_enUS533US533&oq=volume+stuck+on+mute&aqs=chrome.0.69i59j69i57j0l2.14772j0j4&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#safe=off&q=volume+stuck+on+mute+Android).<issue_comment>username_1: The problem seems to be somehow caused by an app. If you close the right app the media volume slider becomes unstuck.
If you are having trouble finding the right app, look for any app having to do with sound.
If you still can't, find the specific app keep closing apps until the media volume becomes unstuck.
Alternatively you can close all your apps and that should guarantee unlocking the media volume.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Mine wasnt caused by an app. My Do Not Disturb was accidentally set to do not disturb for anything. Changing the settings worked.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: Sorted mine the now. It was DPT delivery app that caused it.
Media slider button now working.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/09 | 1,162 | 4,286 | <issue_start>username_0: I'd like to reformat / reset my verizon Samsung S4 (SCH-I545, baseband \*\*OF1, Android 5.0.1). After doing a number of tests and experimentation, I believe that there is a malicious binary sitting in /system which is causing me to follow a random Russian porn Instagram account. I'd like to get rid of whatever is causing the auto-follow (it's not even good porn), so I thought a hard reset / reformat would be ideal... HOWEVER, I believe that a factory reset does not touch /system. Is there a recommended approach with a non-rooted phone to essentially start with a blank slate?
The phone itself was never rooted, but it did come refurbished a year or so ago from Verizon. Since it's running a OF1 baseband, I believe rooting it is out of the question? If it's possible to root, that might solve a lot of problems.<issue_comment>username_1: I'm not sure why you are certain that malware has written to /system. As pointed out by @username_2, no 3rd party should have been able to write to it. This partition is protected at all costs by your system, which is also what makes rooting so difficult on your device. **In practice however**, there is a rather high chance an exploit was found and not made public (regarding recent news kindly pointed out in the comments by @Izzy).
A google search lead me to believe [that there is in fact a way to root your phone](http://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-s4-verizon/general/root-of1-t3249971) (please regard the edit below). This would probably be the easiest method to solve your problem. Once rooted, either re-flash your stock ROM or any custom one, as you wish. This gives you a completely fresh and new /system partition, removing any malware that was mysteriously able to write to it.
Another option might be to go to a service center and ask if they could possibly reinstall the firmware without rooting the device.
**EDIT:** I was able to dig up an [xda thread](http://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-s4-verizon/general/root-of1-t3249971) that deals with rooting a previously unrooted S4 from Verizon with your firmware version. [There is a youtube video about it here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NGQC03U-Lg).
**HOWEVER**, [some reports indicate that this does not actually work and will brick your device.](http://androidforums.com/threads/how-to-root-verizon-galaxy-s4-with-lollipop-5-0-1.916971/page-2) What to do is up to you, but **be careful** and don't blame me if anything goes south.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: The easiest way to fix it (without even voiding warranty because we will be flashing an official firmware image) consists of a few small and easy steps:
(Assuming you have already installed Samsung's USB drivers)
I take no responsibility for damaging, bricking or otherwise damaging you or your phone, but that's how I flashed since a few years now and it never failed me, even when I was at the glimpse of a hard-brick.
1. Get your firmware image: SamMobile has you covered on nearly all the Samsung firmware images. Get the latest image from [Sammobile](http://www.sammobile.com/firmwares/database/SCH-I545/) for your device by creating an account and downloading the `.tar.md5` file. (Don't change the extension, even though you can open the `.tar` like usual, it prevents [Odin](http://dl.sammobile.com/Odin3_v3.10.7.zip) from verifying the checksums)
2. Get Odin from [Sammobile](http://dl.sammobile.com/Odin3_v3.10.7.zip).
3. Boot your phone to download mode by shutting it down and then holding `HOME + Volume-Down + Power` until you are greeted by the bootloader. Then press `Volume-Up` to confirm that you want to install a firmware.
4. Open Odin and select the `.tar.md5` as `PDA` or `AP`, leave everything else untouched (uncheck `Re-Partition` just in case! It can mess with your storage layout and is usually not needed)
5. Connect your phone to your PC (if you haven't already) and make sure it's recognized by Odin.
6. Hit the `Start` button
7. Wait until your phone automatically reboots and you are done. No factory reset is needed, the `/system` partition will be checksum-exact with the one in the firmware image.
(All images with a solid, non-grayed out KIES logo are exact with the one available form Samsung's KIES software)
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/09 | 1,119 | 4,235 | <issue_start>username_0: After discovering the hard way that ~~rooting~~ ~~modifying `/system`~~ looking at `/system` the wrong way breaks updates, I've decided to drop all of the power-user stuff and just go the sanctioned route—no custom recovery system or rooting or *anything*; just pure, stock Android. To that end, I set about ~~performing a factory reset~~ [`[unrooting]`](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/unrooting/info), so to speak.
These are the steps I've followed:
1. [Acquire the `platform-tools` for your computer's operating system.](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/42484/44848) Extract them and add the resulting directory to your `$PATH`.
2. [Download a stock-Android image](https://developers.google.com/android/nexus/images), making sure that the model identifier matches that of your device, but that the version is *not* the latest (this is necessary for step 8). Verify the image using the hash included in the table, then extract it. Fire up a shell if you haven't already, and change to the extracted directory.
3. Unlock the bootloader (`fastboot oem unlock`).
4. Reinstall Android (`./flash-all.sh`). Be sure to catch the device before the last reboot by holding down the boot-to-recovery key combination as soon as the script prints `rebooting...` after writing the cache image (this saves you having to reboot again for the next step).
5. Lock the bootloader (`fastboot oem lock`).
6. Reboot. Wait for Android to…do whatever it does when you boot a new version for the first time.
7. Go through the initial device setup. (I personally connect to a Wi-Fi network, and then skip everything else to save a bit more time).
8. Check for, download, and install an Android OS update. Wait some more while that happens.
9. Observe the following on the device's screen, with the text `Error!` in white beneath it:
10. Bring up the recovery menu and choose `View recovery logs`, then `/cache/recovery/last_log`. Scroll to the bottom and look for an indication of why the update failed. Transcribe the most relevant lines, along with the version and build ID of the image from step 2.
My device is a Nexus 5, purchased in November of 2013 from the Play Store. So far, I've tried this using Android 6.0.0/MRA58K and Android 5.1.1/LMY48M, which produced the following in the recovery logs:
6.0.0/MRA58K:
```
failed to stat "/cache/saved.file": No such file or directory
script aborted: "/system/priv-app/SetupWizard/oat/arm/SetupWizard.odex" has unexpected contents.
```
5.1.1/LMY48M:
```
Remounting and verifying system partition files...
script aborted: assert failed: sha1_check(read_file("/system/fonts/NotoSansTC-Regular.otf"), some_hash)
```
In both cases, the problem seems to be a file under `/system` with contents that aren't equal to the ones the update installer is expecting. This is exceptionally frustrating, given that my procedure *specifically* calls for official stock-Android images, retrieved from none other than Google's website and verified using the hashes they publish (and yes, I make sure to use TLS).
Did I miss a step? What's going wrong here? And how do I get back onto the blessed path and be once again deemed worthy to receive the long-sought-after over-the-air updates?<issue_comment>username_1: Reverting back to original rom requires a full format as partitions as well as their attributes are usually different on different ROMs. This will solve your problem with the advent of a possible change in the device's info such as IMEI or similar. Another setback is the reduction in memory from formatting, especially if your partitions contained a lot of user data during the format.
Suggestion: repeat your steps again, but this time make sure to mount your /system partition and format it as well, unmount it after (it should automatically unmount).
Now. Let the flashing begin...
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I don't have an explanation for you, but try more versions in general, and build MRA58N in particular.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/09 | 2,315 | 9,095 | <issue_start>username_0: The device won't power on. The screen and status light show no indication of activity when pressing or holding the power button (or any button / pairwise combination of buttons for that matter).
The Nook HD+ (model BNTV600) has been unused for at least six months. It would not power on, so I presumed that the battery was simply dead and left it plugged in overnight to charge but would still not power on the next day. I suspect that it is not charging. When initially connected to a charger the light shows green for three seconds and shows orange/amber for three seconds and then remains off (there is a brief flicker orange/amber -> green at the transition between colors).
The device was functioning normally before storage. I've tried charging with two different Nook HD+ -> USB cables and two different USB AC adapters and the behavior is all the same.
Is this device completely dead? Are there any tricks to get this thing to charge / power on?<issue_comment>username_1: Li Ion batteries have a protection circuit that kicks in when the discharge falls below a certain level. The device may have been kept in storage for long, with a low battery level. Batteries **"self-discharge"**, at a slow rate but in your case, it drained out faster , since the initial charge current may have been low (guessing).
Whatever be the actual reason, the Battery refuses to charge, since the protection circuit has kicked in. This hypothesis is corroborated by the attempt to charge but failing as indicated by transition of coloured lights. It requires certain current to be applied to it before charging can happen. This is called **"Boosting"**. [How to awaken sleeping Li-ion](http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/low_voltage_cut_off) explains it and suggests ways
In case you don't have access to such chargers (I haven't found one where I stay), the best bet would be to visit a service center to see if they have and in all probability replace the battery
**Edit**
Here's an article [How to fix a dead Li-Ion battery](http://kraaima.com/fix-dead-li-ion-samsung-battery/) which suggests a way to "jump start" the Battery (do read the warnings) and if you decide to try this method, please update outcome (method involves stripping a USB cable and connecting it with right polarity to the battery directly for a while)
All the best
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Since the device showed brief activity (the six seconds which the status LED was illuminated) I set the owner of the Nook on a mission to force a trickle charge to the device. Using the factory cable and USB power adapter plugged Belkin Conserve Power Switch to easily interrupt the power (a surge protector could work as well) they found that it was possible to give the device a minimal charge so that it would permit normal "unattended" charging.
The procedure that worked for them was:
1. Apply power
2. Interrupt power at the point the status LED would transition to amber
3. Wait some seconds before re-applying power and repeating (we don't recall how long it was exactly only that it was the minimum amount of time before the same illumination pattern could again be elicited; somewhere around 5 seconds)
After 15-20 minutes of this the device finally displayed the charging icon on the screen and has been functioning and charging as expected since.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I had issue with Nook HD going green for a few seconds then amber for a few seconds then nothing.
As stated above its because the battery went flat after sitting for too long w/o charger.
If you only have one charger you can try the plugging in, green to amber then you, un-plug, wait a second or two, replug and repeat cycle, or try another charger.
I tried the plug unplug for about 10 times then tried the wall-wart from a Samsung tablet and it stayed amber.
Lesson learned: keep the sucker charged up! Even new Samsung tablet will discharge over time if not kept charged.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I had similar symptoms with my Nook HD+ : when plugged into charger the indicator light turned green, then orange, but only for a second, then went dark. When left on charger for many hours, the indicator would start blinking red. Nothing worked, until I read technical details in this post:
<https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2796915>
The bottom line: *if the battery voltage drops below 1.8 V, the stupid control chip assumes the battery is "bad" and refuses to pass the charging current; consistent with the observed symptom*s. This gave me an idea on how to fix this:
**Step 1**: Open the Nook by prying the front panel to get access to mounting screws, then unscrew the back panel.
**Step 2**: Locate the battery cable composed of three red, three black, one blue, and one yellow wires.
**Step 3**: Locate the gold test points on circuit board *under* the wires: "VBAT" under the red wires, "BAT-" under the black wires.
**Step 4**: You have to trick the control chip into "thinking" that the battery is still "good". For this, you'll need an external voltage source. I used my homemade adjustable DC power supply setting it to 2.5 V. I guess, any voltage between 1.8 - 3.7 should work.
**Step 5**: Connect the *positive* lead from the external power source to the "VBAT" test point, connect *negative* (or ground) lead to the "BAT-" test point.
**Step 6**: Plug your Nook into charger and wait a few seconds: the indicator light will now stay solid orange meaning the charging current is passing through. Yay! You should disconnect the external DC source; it's no longer needed.
Here are helpful pictures:
<https://www.dropbox.com/sh/mmr2gdfpalaw4w4/AAA7leNYExGbPunGciLDP8Vna?dl=0>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: Don't need to do any of the above, certainly don't open the device. Find a Mac USB port, I've seen MacBook Pro USB port recommended online. I don't have one of those but I do have an old Mac Mini Power PC so I switched that on and plugged the Nook HD+ USB cable into one of its USB ports and bingo! Fired up and the charging symbol appeared on the screen of the Nook and it is now charging. Find yourself a Mac or a friend with a Mac.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: Thanks for the tip on using a MAC power connector. My Nook has not been used in a while and the battery was below 10% when I first tried to charge it. It never seem to recover and I could not power it on or perform a hard reset. I ended up plugging it into a multi port (USB) MAC connector for an MAC Book Pro. BAMMMM. It almost immediately came a live and I was able to power it back on under normal procedures.
One last point. While the Nook is still plugged in you should do a reboot; otherwise, it will revert back to a zombie mode when unplugged. This too can be corrected by simply plugging the device back in and again powering it on, then rebooting.
I’m back in business. Thanks again ... great tip and would recommend it to any one with a similar issue.
PS: If you do not have a MAC power supply or the proper USB based connection for one, then try and go to an Apple store to see if they can do you a “solid”. You might want to can ahead and ask and/or make an appointment.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: I had the same problem with my nook. I don't have a Mac but that gave me an idea. I have a portable phone charger so I plugged it up and low and behold it came back to life!!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_8: I tried a number of different wall chargers and PC ports to charge mine with no luck. Tried the trickle charge trick by repeatedly connecting/disconnecting and did it for over 30 minutes with no luck there either.
What did work was using a battery backup like people use to charge their cell phones. I happened to have a little one I got for free at a work conference. It outputs 5V/1A. I immediately got the Nook to start recharging when I plugged in this little battery on the first try with no screwing around or disassembly needed.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_9: Another success with MacBook (not pro).
2 ea. Nook HD, 3 ea. cables, multiple power supplies all failed with the green, amber, red, dark LED and no charging symptom.
Both charged fully overnight when using the cable in the MacBook USB port.
Unfortunately, after charging successfully from the Mac, they still won't charge from the power supplies directly.
I now have a very large charger (the MacBook) for these very small tablets.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_10: Okay, got it going. Do not open the tablet or get fancy ideas. What I did was simple but took patience. I plugged it in and it turned from green to amber after 5 seconds. Did that several times at 10 second intervals then left it plugged in on amber for 15 minutes to go do something. Came back, it was still amber but charging. Tried doing a few more greens to amber each time it aent amber but was charging. Left it alone 5 minutes and it blinked then went green all by itself. Now charged up and thanks for everyone's ideas.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/10 | 262 | 1,058 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to send an SMS with Messenger on my new Nexus 5X running Lollipop, but sending always fails with `Can't send message on card 1, error 21`. Receiving SMS and making phone calls works fine. What's going on?<issue_comment>username_1: Most likely **the destination phone number is formatted wrong**, which can happen particularly when importing contacts via third-party tool.
In this particular case, I used *My Contacts Backup* for iOS to export my contacts to VCF, then imported from Gmail. In the process, some numbers were wrongly formatted as `+61 0 4xx` when they should be just `+61 4xx`, causing the highly uninformative error message above. (The `21` error code actually comes from the operator's network, and has nothing to do with Android as such.) Removing the extra `0` solved the problem.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If above mentioned methods are not working, you may try installing 3rd party SMS applications (eg., EvolveSMS) instead of Google messenger. Hope it helps.
Upvotes: -1 |
2016/01/10 | 208 | 865 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been able to use Google Maps as normal at home (strong WiFi; 2 bars in 3G) with no problems for ages. Suddenly it says it is in Offline mode so won't plan a route; tapping the message bar does nothing. I understand that offline mode is now available, but why should that disable online mode? How can I get it back online?<issue_comment>username_1: You may have accidentally turned off the permission required by Google Maps to access internet.
Applies to rooted Lollipop+ devices: go to Settings -> Privacy -> Privacy guard -> look for Google Maps and grant it the permissions you want.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: It's not the version, and permission to access Internet is on. I think it may have been a temporary glitch: after an hour, it was back to normal & has been ever since, so hopefully problem solved.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/10 | 433 | 1,418 | <issue_start>username_0: Xposed have 3 different versions: arm, arm64 and x86
Which one should I use for Nexus 5X?<issue_comment>username_1: If you have custom ROM please define it. And if you are using stock ROM you probably have ARM. Or just download cpu-z from play store and find it there.
Hope that was helpful, Nik
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: The LG Nexus 5X is the first device with Android 6.0(.1) so it's running SDK23.
X86 is only for x86 processors, which except for the ASUS Zenfone, no one is using.
ARM is for usual 32-bit ARM processors (and 32-bit ROMs). This was the standard about 1/2 to 1 year ago.
ARM64 is the newest generation of 64-bit ARM processors and ROMs supporting this architecture. I suspect your phone is 64-bit capable (at least the processor is).
1. Head over to the official Xposed thread on XDA:
<http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=3034811>
2. Download the appropriate Xposed version (xposed-vxx-sdk23-arm64.zip)
3. Copy it to your device.
4. Flash it using a custom recovery.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Go ARM, not ARM32, so far all the Armv8 phones I have use 32 boot loaders, 32 bit Roms, and etc, a lot of them dont even have the memory to utilize 64, I believe Armv8 is more of a performance tweak, with a future capability to go 64. I could be wrong, but you KNOW Armv7 software will definitely work.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/10 | 351 | 1,396 | <issue_start>username_0: Any way that I can securely wipe free internal storage on Android? I am not talking about secure deleting, but just wiping whatever is possible to recover.<issue_comment>username_1: There are several apps claiming to help you out with this, see my [Secure Wipe](https://android.izzysoft.de/applists/category/named/security_datawipe#group_457) app list. They support different sub-sets of actions (e.g. only wiping free space versus "secure deleting files", or only working on SD card) – so make sure to read their descriptions. [Secure Eraser](http://www.appbrain.com/app/com.aiuspaktyn.secureeraser) might work for your case.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: The most reliable method is to manually copy large non-sensitive files (such as Linux images or the LibreOffice Installer Setup File) to the partition that you wish to erase the free space from, delete and repeat it around THREE to FIVE times. Ensure the files you copy fill up the drive as much as possible, i.e. start copying small files when the large ones are too big to fit in the last remaining MB / KB of free space.
If you don't want to mess around finding files to write, you can use a utility called Dummy File Creator: <http://www.mynikko.com/dummy/>
This will allow you to create files of a specific size containing random data (ensure the Random File Content option is selected).
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/01/10 | 398 | 1,611 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Sony Xperia Z with Android 5.1.1, and I'm trying to get events from calendars I subscribed to on Google Calendar's web interface to show up on my stock calendar app. Specifically, some of the calendars I subscribed to don't show up in the app. I tried checking if they were disabled but they aren't even in the calendar list on the sidebar.
Using [this app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=tk.drlue.icalimportexport) I was able to find that the calendar subscriptions I wanted actually exist on my device but are listed with "0 events," even though their events show up on Google Calendar's web interface.
I have tried rebooting my device, checking that all calendars are enabled both in the stock calendar app and in settings, and manually syncing from settings.
How can I get the calendar events to sync and show up?<issue_comment>username_1: I finally managed to fix this.
If anyone else has this problem:
* Go to Settings > Apps > All and clear data and cache for Calendar and Calendar Storage
* Go to Settings > Accounts > Google, choose the menu and re-sync all
* Wait for sync
* Open the Calendar app and set it up again
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: It's either a sync issue like the previous answer OR you might have multiple Google accounts on your phone and Google Calendar is only showing calendar events for your default Google Account.
In your app settings make sure that the tag group for ICal is set set to sync.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gMkCY.png)
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/11 | 332 | 1,285 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a couple of profiles defined in Tasker that I would only like to enable while traveling abroad. As Tasker cannot recognize the state "traveling abroad", I would like to set this state manually which should then disable all the profiles related to this meta profile "traveling abroad".
I envision this in Tasker:
* Category: Traveling abroad (switch off/on)
+ Profile 1 (switch off/on)
+ Profile 2 (switch off/on)
+ Profile 3 (switch off/on)
+ ...<issue_comment>username_1: Disabling a profile constitutes as an action so you need to do something in a task only. Tasker supports toggling the status of profiles from a task.
Create a new task and use this action: Tasker → Profile Status
* Name: name of the profile to be toggled
* Set: On/Off/Toggle
When would you or how would you like to run this task is upon you to decide. You can setup a location profile, a time trigger or perhaps, bind the task into a widget (1x1) to toggle all those profiles from a single touch on a shortcut.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You can create a Profile that is always active when it turned on, then use the %pactive variable state in the other profiles so that they are only able to be active when the main profile is.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/11 | 427 | 1,602 | <issue_start>username_0: I have this circle with dots that showing up on my apps. Where did it come from and how do I get rid of it?
I've attached some screenshots:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gpb5s.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/n9qIg.png)
It sort of floats on top of it. I can move it around but it doesn't seem to respond to anything.
Disclaimer: I wrote the [app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=air.AsciiArtMaker) shown but I don't know where this came from and I don't see it on other apps.<issue_comment>username_1: That icon is definitely the same than the toolbox one, if it's not for that, then the only logic explanation is that something was activated on the Accessibility options, is the only place now where all this hidden features should be enabled, so I'm guessing the OP should have unintentionally turned on one of this settings, OP, were you playing on the Accessibility menu by any chance? If so, do you remember what you were doing?
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: It's either **Floating Toolbox (Floating Launcher)** which is a shortcut application or the **Samsung Galaxy S5/S6 Toolbox**. These
`Floating Toolbox` apps gives you access to your apps from anywhere by pressing the Floating button.
Here is a link to the Floating toolbox app:
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.toolbox.shortcuts>
You should be able to disable / uninstall them from settings -> application manager.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/12 | 694 | 2,637 | <issue_start>username_0: I've installed CyanogenMod 12.1 ([stable branch](https://download.cyanogenmod.org/?device=ghost): `cm-12.1-20151117-SNAPSHOT-YOG7DAO1K9`) on my phone (MotoX, 1st gen) using Clockwork Recovery, including the version of [OpenGApps](http://opengapps.org/?api=5.1&variant=nano) recommended on [CM wiki](http://wiki.cyanogenmod.org/w/Google_Apps), and [SuperSU](https://download.chainfire.eu/696/SuperSU/). There are three issues i've noticed - putting them all here in case they're related...
1. App install from Play Store triggers soft reboot
2. `Android is upgrading, Starting apps` message on every boot
3. Can't copy files to device: `The device has either stopped responding or has been disconnected`
I've searched around but advice seems pretty thin.
UPDATE: I've checked `adb logcat` during install, and found that this seems to happen shortly prior to reboot:
`F/PackageManager( 5905): java.io.FileNotFoundException: /data/system/users/0/package-restrictions.xml: open failed: ENOENT (No such file or directory)`
Having checked for the file I can confirm it's not there. Is there a replacement I can add in order to resolve this? I've noticed that any new users created do have this file, though it doesn't seem possible to copy it across, even with root.
UPDATE2: Somehow i have files located in `/data/media/0/0/0/0/0/clockworkmod`: `.recovery_version` and `philz-touch_6.sav`
When I format in preparation for reinstall these files cannot be removed. I've also tried using root and adb shell to delete with no success. As a result apps seem to persist across OS reinstalls.
I think the best thing to try now is a manual reformat of the data partition...<issue_comment>username_1: That icon is definitely the same than the toolbox one, if it's not for that, then the only logic explanation is that something was activated on the Accessibility options, is the only place now where all this hidden features should be enabled, so I'm guessing the OP should have unintentionally turned on one of this settings, OP, were you playing on the Accessibility menu by any chance? If so, do you remember what you were doing?
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: It's either **Floating Toolbox (Floating Launcher)** which is a shortcut application or the **Samsung Galaxy S5/S6 Toolbox**. These
`Floating Toolbox` apps gives you access to your apps from anywhere by pressing the Floating button.
Here is a link to the Floating toolbox app:
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.toolbox.shortcuts>
You should be able to disable / uninstall them from settings -> application manager.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/12 | 890 | 3,722 | <issue_start>username_0: I am using android, and the I have used my google contacts to sync to this, when trying to delete an account, it shows "You can not delete contacts from read only accounts, but you can hide them",
When I search the net, I have seen answers like 'clear the contacts and dialer app and again sync'
and doing so every time I lost the call history.
So now if I want to delete a contact in my phone, I first go to google contact and delete from there and again sync.
So if we want to delete an contact from contacts in google do we need to delete this from google contacts and again sync?
How can I delete a contact in google contact from android phone?
and if we hide the contact in phone, where can I see hidden contacts?
thanks,<issue_comment>username_1: as far as I know, these "read only accounts" relate to other accounts you have set up in Android (e.g. Facebook, WhatsApp, Viber, etc.). These accounts are (usually) synced by default when you set them up and the respective contacts are displayed in your contacts. You have several options to manage these contacts:
1. in Android under contacts go to settings and select "Contacts to display" - here you can chose which account to include in your contacts list. You can also chose a mix of them under "Customize"
2. to manage 'read only' accounts, you may go online to your respective services (e.g. Facebook, WhatsApp, Viber, etc.) and add/modify/delete the contacts there.
3. the best way to manage your Google accounts, at least for me, is still to edit them directly in your contact list at gmail.com.
Hope this helps a bit.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I got fed up working around it, I just deleted whatsapp add (in my case its what was linked) then deleted the contact and added it with the right info I wanted to be saved. then just reinstalled the whatsapp app and that's it
be aware when you are adding this person again to your contact list it may prepolute old info like G+ account so i deleted anything but the email and the phone number to make sure I keep the right info
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: If you click on the contact itself and delete the link accounts attached once you do that back out and delete like normal and the contact should be deleted finally.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: If you want to delete the contact:
1. Tap on a contact you want to delete
2. Tap the overflow icon on the top-right (like when you want to edit the details)
3. Choose "View linked contacts"
4. Tap on "Unlink", and then "Unlink" again
5. After that, go back and you can safely delete your contact without losing those that you didn't want to lose
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: As username_1 said, most of the **read only** contacts come from third party apps that access your contacts to identify your friends (like WhatsApp, Viber, etc.,). These contacts are automatically created by such apps and they may or may not show up in your contacts list.
If you want to delete the read only contact, you have to either delete the main contact (not the linked one) or you have to uninstall the app.
If you want to delete the read only contact just because they show up as duplicates, you can try merging the contacts.
There are third party apps to merge multiple duplicates at once if the function isn't inbuilt.
Hope this helps.
**Edit:**
I encountered a situation where there were multiple read-only contacts, but no original contact. Not sure what caused this situation. The only way I got rid of them is by clearing the *Contacts Storage* app's data. Use this as a last resort. Also make sure you have a backup of contacts before clearing. It will also clear your call history.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/12 | 972 | 4,036 | <issue_start>username_0: Phone: GT-I9100
A: 4.1.2
I tried to move Apps from my phone to the SD card with root permissions enabled.
I missed the point that the SD card was running out of space during the process. A warning did not take place.
Afterwards the Apps seem to have been disappeared, but the Phone storage is still clogged with only 200 MB free. I thought that I could perhaps reinstall the broken apps to make them available again and move them again when the SD-Card is cleaned properly. But this seems unviable because the phone claims about missing space every time I try to fetch the app from the store.
If I enter the setup section for memory it takes eternal to sum up the memory consumption for the different categories (apps, pics/videos, audio, downloads and so on)
Questions:
Is it a valid assumption that due to the failed move to SD card the apps got rendered disfunctional but are still lingering on the phone memory? How can I verify that and what to do then?
What might prevent the phone to calculate the memory usage in finite time?
<issue_comment>username_1: as far as I know, these "read only accounts" relate to other accounts you have set up in Android (e.g. Facebook, WhatsApp, Viber, etc.). These accounts are (usually) synced by default when you set them up and the respective contacts are displayed in your contacts. You have several options to manage these contacts:
1. in Android under contacts go to settings and select "Contacts to display" - here you can chose which account to include in your contacts list. You can also chose a mix of them under "Customize"
2. to manage 'read only' accounts, you may go online to your respective services (e.g. Facebook, WhatsApp, Viber, etc.) and add/modify/delete the contacts there.
3. the best way to manage your Google accounts, at least for me, is still to edit them directly in your contact list at gmail.com.
Hope this helps a bit.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I got fed up working around it, I just deleted whatsapp add (in my case its what was linked) then deleted the contact and added it with the right info I wanted to be saved. then just reinstalled the whatsapp app and that's it
be aware when you are adding this person again to your contact list it may prepolute old info like G+ account so i deleted anything but the email and the phone number to make sure I keep the right info
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: If you click on the contact itself and delete the link accounts attached once you do that back out and delete like normal and the contact should be deleted finally.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: If you want to delete the contact:
1. Tap on a contact you want to delete
2. Tap the overflow icon on the top-right (like when you want to edit the details)
3. Choose "View linked contacts"
4. Tap on "Unlink", and then "Unlink" again
5. After that, go back and you can safely delete your contact without losing those that you didn't want to lose
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: As username_1 said, most of the **read only** contacts come from third party apps that access your contacts to identify your friends (like WhatsApp, Viber, etc.,). These contacts are automatically created by such apps and they may or may not show up in your contacts list.
If you want to delete the read only contact, you have to either delete the main contact (not the linked one) or you have to uninstall the app.
If you want to delete the read only contact just because they show up as duplicates, you can try merging the contacts.
There are third party apps to merge multiple duplicates at once if the function isn't inbuilt.
Hope this helps.
**Edit:**
I encountered a situation where there were multiple read-only contacts, but no original contact. Not sure what caused this situation. The only way I got rid of them is by clearing the *Contacts Storage* app's data. Use this as a last resort. Also make sure you have a backup of contacts before clearing. It will also clear your call history.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/12 | 281 | 1,098 | <issue_start>username_0: My Galaxy note 5 is not connecting to my PC, it is charging, but never shows up on the PC. can this be fixed?<issue_comment>username_1: Go to settings->storage->USB connection mode
Connect to pc and change it
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Beeshyams is correct. However, what is missing is how to change it to MTP mode. So far the only way I have found is to activate developer options and scroll to USB Configuration and select MTP. It's not sticky and you will need to set it each time you want to connect to a PC.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Settings --> MORE --> Edit Quick Settings --> Scroll way down to Storage, and select it. Then, when you plug in the USB cable, a dialog pops up *on the phone* asking if you want to allow access (um, choose "allow") I just copied a pic from my Note5 this way.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Be sure to use the supplied USB cord (Samsung) which came with the phone...
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Settings-->Developer Options --> USB config --> select \* MTP (Media Transfer Protocol)
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/13 | 441 | 1,697 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm having this problem since I was trying to upgrade Aptoide from 6.5.X to 7.X.
* I was trying to upgrade Aptoide from inside Aptoide: Installation failed.
* I was trying to `adb install` or `pm install` it, got the same response:
`Failure [INSTALL_FAILED_CONFLICTING_PROVIDER]`
* So I removed the older Aptoide version and got the same response exactly except for several times where I got `Failure [INSTALL_FAILED_INVALID_URI]`.
* I tried upgrading my CM version (My device is OnePlus One with the latest official COS12.1), didn't help, same response.
I checked the list of packages, and there were no conflicts with the name in `android:authorities` in `AndroidManifest.xml` and there were also no special characters in that file (I used apktool to decompile the APK and look at the files).
I have no idea what I'm doing wrong but I don't want to mess with the package and there's nothing I know I can change in my phone's configuration that would fix that.
Any ideas?<issue_comment>username_1: If it's a third-party app (which third-party apps are installed as .apk) you should go to *Settings* > Applications > and then enable *Unknown resources* it 'Allows installation of non-market apps'
I hope that helped and worked
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Figured it all out!
Apparently Aptoide-dev was installed but somehow only for the guest user.
All I had to do was switching to the guest user, going to Settings -> Apps and remove the Aptoide-dev package.
Going back to my profile did some weird stuff (I can't switch between apps, it'll probably work after restart) but I managed to install Aptoide finally.
Thanks.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/13 | 1,064 | 4,335 | <issue_start>username_0: An app is showing ads frequently on my device. I can't find it in the app collection. I also tried Settings -> Device Administration but didn't get it there. Then I looked for it in Xender (app like ShareIt) and got it there . Its name is Shuffle but can't uninstall it even from there.<issue_comment>username_1: you will have to flash the firmware (reload the software). you can try turning on the phone immediately after it starts to boot, press and hold volume down button. it will start the phone in safe mode. try uninstalling the app there, if unsuccessful, you will have to reload the firmware.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: There will be application named '**android communication**' with android icon uninstall it.Actually I was having the same problem then this shuffel app made one mistake of poping notification which helped me to get its app info and as I got app info it was easy just uninstall it.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: YOU CAN TRY
(1ST PROCESS) "SETTINGS>APPS>(LOOK FOR AN UNIDENTIFIED APP)>UNINSTALL".
```
IF 1ST PROCESS NOT WORK,YOU CAN TRY SAFE MODE(HOLD POWER BUTTON,AND WHEN POWER-OFF OPTIONS WILL COME,HOLD "POWER-OFF" OPTION.),THEN TRY 1ST PROCESS.
```
SORRY FOR MY POOR ENGLISH.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I had recently encountered the same issue...I tried to uninstall it from Settings>apps...but couldn't do it cuz it was disabled. Then I installed an app called "uninstaller" from play store...Upon selecting the blank app to uninstall, it said something like.."can't uninstall as the app is enabled in device administrators"..I had to deselect that blank app in Settings>device administrators.. and then I could able to uninstall that annoying blank app. Problem solved.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: It worked for me when I went to device administrators
Why not factory reset it it will probably go away
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_6: I had a similar same problem and solved it this way:
1. Go to Settings → Device Manager → uncheck unknown app
2. Go to Setting → Apps → uninstall the first unnamed app from the list
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_7: When I turned on my Hudl 2 I got a white screen that popped up displaying an ad. so I went to settings and found a app with no image or name. I couldn't uninstall it . So I found a app called uninstaller from the Play store and downloaded it. I opened up the app and that blank app was at the top of the list I clicked on it and I couldn't install it because it was ticked on device administrator so I unticked it and I could uninstall it
By the way you don't need an uninstaller.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_8: Settings>Device Administrator... Then deselect the "ghost" app and it will allow for you to uninstall through application manager as other apps do. Basically it snuck in and gave itself administrative properties, not allowing for it to be removed. I refuse to factory reset my device, lol
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_9: Just install 360 Security from play store and go and clean your phone. That app detects com.media malware and asks you to deactivate your administrator ... deactivate that and you can automatically uninstall that malware.
* I think 360 Security is best for your phone but you need to avoid ads
* Don't allow it to remove app cache, otherwise it removes your uc downloads and other apps' data.
* Don't download apps from untrusted websites
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_10: I had trouble with "movie HD" app on android
besides not actually having movies to watch, it constantly showed ads even if it was not running.
When I tried to uninstall it the normal way I could not because uninstall was greyed out.
I finally got rid of it by using "AppMgr III" app that showed it had administrator protection. it showed me where to uncheck that and then I was able to uninstall movie HD and ads are finally gone!
YAY for appmgr III, BOO for movie HD
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_11: App Mgr III really works, was so easy. All I did was click on the ad app and deactivated it, boom, no more endless pop-up ads.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_12: Just download superuser apk from Google, then go to delete option. You will find all applications, you can even uninstall built-in apps.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/13 | 530 | 1,960 | <issue_start>username_0: All the guides that I can find online refer to the Windows-only "Odin" software. I also found an open-source alternative "Heimdall" but the Samsung S6 is not supported (and apparently it's not compatible with the .tar.gz file format).
I have installed WinXP on a VirtualBox virtual machine, and then I installed the Samsung USB drivers and the Windows Odin software. I then made sure to route all Samsung USB devices to this virtual machine, but still neither Windows nor Odin sees the phone - neither in its normal operating mode nor in its "Odin" download mode.
Chainfire's CF-Autoroot also uses Odin, which means I'm still stuck at the above problem. I also tried running Odin in Linux (using `wine`) but again it couldn't see the phone, and I didn't expect it to work anyway).
I have not been able to find a description of how to root the S6 (or any Samsung) directly in Linux, or via virtual machine. Is that simply not possible? Do I really need to install my old WinXP license on a physical computer?<issue_comment>username_1: There is a cross-platform version of Odin called JOdin. It can run in a web browser, or locally after downloading the JAR file. Either one requires Oracle Java 8 to be installed first.
Web version: <https://builds.casual-dev.com/jodin3/>
Offline version: <https://builds.casual-dev.com/index.php?dir=JOdin3%2F> '
The offline version is started with `$ java -jar /path/to/JAR/JOdin3CASUAL-r1035-dist.jar`.
Both versions work well - but now I run into the next problem which is that [the PIT file can't be obtained](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/134198/jodin-we-could-not-obtain-the-pit-file-we-tried-but-it-didnt-work).
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I know this is old, but you need to make sure you present the USB device to your VM ;) (at least if you still want to do this from a VM) --- At least for anyone finding this off of the googles
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/13 | 445 | 1,502 | <issue_start>username_0: Here is this weird drawer/app I am getting when I swipe on bottom left corner of my screen.
I tried to uninstall it, but can't find it in the list.
I believe it is some malware/adware, as it shows random keywords in the search box (in screenshot, it is showing india vs australia). This app came out of nowhere without being preinstalled. I have another phone of same brand/model which is without this creepy app.
I am using Xiaomi Redmi 2
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/toVEm.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: There is a cross-platform version of Odin called JOdin. It can run in a web browser, or locally after downloading the JAR file. Either one requires Oracle Java 8 to be installed first.
Web version: <https://builds.casual-dev.com/jodin3/>
Offline version: <https://builds.casual-dev.com/index.php?dir=JOdin3%2F> '
The offline version is started with `$ java -jar /path/to/JAR/JOdin3CASUAL-r1035-dist.jar`.
Both versions work well - but now I run into the next problem which is that [the PIT file can't be obtained](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/134198/jodin-we-could-not-obtain-the-pit-file-we-tried-but-it-didnt-work).
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I know this is old, but you need to make sure you present the USB device to your VM ;) (at least if you still want to do this from a VM) --- At least for anyone finding this off of the googles
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/13 | 660 | 2,537 | <issue_start>username_0: I used an iPad some years ago and it had an option to choose different images in portrait and landscape mode. I am on a Samsung Galaxy Tab Pro 10.1 with Cyanognmod and I also use a OnePlus 2. I am using Nova lauchner.
My question is:
Is it possible to set different images for portrait and landscape orientation? (It is okay to use different apps than Nova Launcher)
I hope this is the right StackExchange sub"forum" for this question.
Thanks for answering,
<NAME>inger<issue_comment>username_1: You can use an [automation](/questions/tagged/automation "show questions tagged 'automation'") app here.
[Automate](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.llamalab.automate)
===============================================================================
Setup a flow like this:
(Click image to enlarge)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qRNpb.png)
Location of relevant blocks:
* Interface → Screen Orientation?
* Settings → Wallpaper image set
After setting it up, make sure to install the permission it asks for - set wallpaper.
This worked in my COS12 and PA build of Android 5.1 but somehow failed in Android 5.1 nightly build of Vanir ROM.
---
[Tasker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.dinglisch.android.taskerm)
=====================================================================================
Try the [trial version](http://tasker.dinglisch.net/download.html), before buying from Play Store.
* Profile: State → Display → Display Orientation →Portrait
* Task: (Actions): Display → Set Wallpaper → fill the details
* For landscape orientation, you can either add an [exit task](http://tasker.dinglisch.net/userguide_summary.html#activity_main.html "Read 3. Tasks under Profiles") by long pressing the task entry next to linked profile under Profiles tab and choosing "Add exit task", or setup a new profile for landscape orientation and create a new task for it.
For latter approach, make sure to disable Restore Settings for both the profiles. A profile's properties can be accessed by long-pressing the profile and tapping the settings icon.
Tasker worked in both Android 5.0 and 5.1 ROMs installed in my device.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: It can be done easily.
Open an image you want to set as wallpaper in gallery
In menu->set picture as ->Nova wallpaper
In the crop screen choose crop icon
(2nd icon left of bottom) choose whatever rotation you want.
It will work.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/13 | 383 | 1,635 | <issue_start>username_0: There are many good mobile phones are available in the market who have only internal memory.
Why biggest manufacturers such as apple, Xiaomi and even Google nexus are not giving memory expansion slots to their mobile phones?
Are they facing any technical problem in terms of OS support or Performance degradation by giving memory expansion slot?<issue_comment>username_1: The answer is simple, they want you to pay more for phones with more internal storage, versus buying one phone and expanding it when you run out of memory.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Perhaps because those phones already have enough (for some users) internal storage but best choice is expandable because in case your phone is wrecked or bricked you can save some of your files if the 'Expandable storage' is not damaged.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Xiaomi put this down to design restrictions in the case of the new Mi5 - they say that there was so much to cram under the hood that they literally couldn't fit the slot in.
I believe them - I've just got the Mi5 and it's featherweight and slim.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Multiple reasons. Technical considerations like read/write speed significantly faster on eMMC than the best class 10. OEMs can guarantee the same experience and better support for everyone. Less hassle hardware and software side. It's generally a design choice, they restrict the user to save themselves headaches in tech support, ota builds, hardware design, roll-out time..etc. From OEM point of view the benefits far outweigh the costs of adding an sdcard slot.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/13 | 615 | 2,742 | <issue_start>username_0: Android phones have better processor and more RAM than iPhone. Then after many android phones are suffering from hang problem.
Both OS are based on Linux then why should this big performance issue arise?<issue_comment>username_1: The problem is *specialization*!
Apple's iOS is optimized for a small set of specialized Apple processors, which are ARM-based but because of e.g. custom extensions are able to do a lot more than the specification. Each app is compiled for every set of hardware (like one binary per CPU+GPU combination).
Android needs to work on many different CPUs (Qualcomm, Exynos, MediaTek and all there different models) and thus trades performance for support and availability on all those devices.
With the latest addition of ART, Android tries to gain back a bit of the sacrificed performance by recompiling the binary (from the Dalvik bytecode) with vendor specific compilers that allow them to specialize the binaries again.
However, apps that rely on libraries compiled with the NDK (Native Devlopment Kit) see no improvement when using functions of them, because the binary files are *not* recompiled.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Because the devices that have hanging problems are not the ones with better processors and more RAM. Unlike iPhone, where there's only the expensive devices, Android runs on a whole range of devices. At one end, there are the flagships from the big manufacturers, which have a lot of effort put into them to make sure the animations are silky smooth and there are no dropped frames or hanging. At the other end are the cheap devices which use much cheaper components - often the components that don't show on the product feature list - and have little effort put into the system integration.
On this site we typically get a lot of questions from users who've bought those min-spec devices and then been disappointed by their performance. This doesn't happen with iPhones because the OS simply doesn't support cheapo devices. It's worth noting that iOS isn't without its performance problems. After each new version of iOS, users of older iPhones who've made the mistake of upgrading tend to complain that their phone runs much slower on the newer OS. It's not because the OS has suddenly got much worse: it's because it's trying to do a lot more, and use the increased resources on the newer phones, and those older, slower phones just can't do everything at once.
The fact that Android uses a Linux kernel is not relevant. In fact, you get the same behaviour out of any Linux: if you run it on a high-powered machine, you get good performance, but if you run it on a cheaper machine, you get poor performance.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/01/13 | 615 | 2,695 | <issue_start>username_0: Whenever I connect my note 3 sm-n900 to my laptop, it doesn't connect and also the usb icon doesn't appear on my notification panel. My Android version is 5.0<issue_comment>username_1: The problem is *specialization*!
Apple's iOS is optimized for a small set of specialized Apple processors, which are ARM-based but because of e.g. custom extensions are able to do a lot more than the specification. Each app is compiled for every set of hardware (like one binary per CPU+GPU combination).
Android needs to work on many different CPUs (Qualcomm, Exynos, MediaTek and all there different models) and thus trades performance for support and availability on all those devices.
With the latest addition of ART, Android tries to gain back a bit of the sacrificed performance by recompiling the binary (from the Dalvik bytecode) with vendor specific compilers that allow them to specialize the binaries again.
However, apps that rely on libraries compiled with the NDK (Native Devlopment Kit) see no improvement when using functions of them, because the binary files are *not* recompiled.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Because the devices that have hanging problems are not the ones with better processors and more RAM. Unlike iPhone, where there's only the expensive devices, Android runs on a whole range of devices. At one end, there are the flagships from the big manufacturers, which have a lot of effort put into them to make sure the animations are silky smooth and there are no dropped frames or hanging. At the other end are the cheap devices which use much cheaper components - often the components that don't show on the product feature list - and have little effort put into the system integration.
On this site we typically get a lot of questions from users who've bought those min-spec devices and then been disappointed by their performance. This doesn't happen with iPhones because the OS simply doesn't support cheapo devices. It's worth noting that iOS isn't without its performance problems. After each new version of iOS, users of older iPhones who've made the mistake of upgrading tend to complain that their phone runs much slower on the newer OS. It's not because the OS has suddenly got much worse: it's because it's trying to do a lot more, and use the increased resources on the newer phones, and those older, slower phones just can't do everything at once.
The fact that Android uses a Linux kernel is not relevant. In fact, you get the same behaviour out of any Linux: if you run it on a high-powered machine, you get good performance, but if you run it on a cheaper machine, you get poor performance.
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/01/13 | 485 | 1,895 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an app called Telegarm and it stores all its cache files in a directory inside sdcard/Android/data folder.
the problem is that there are thousand of tiny a few kilo bytes files stored in there.
while file manager app trys to read the list of files it hangs and wating a long time dosent work.
is there a way which i can delete those files fast and easy?
-p.s: my phone is not rooted.
-p.s 2:they are more than 30 000 files and more than 300 mgb!<issue_comment>username_1: It could be that Telegram may misbehave when find those files missing. Anyhow. You can use command-line for the job. Setup [adb](/questions/tagged/adb "show questions tagged 'adb'") in PC and execute this command
```
adb shell am force-stop org.telegram.messenger # this would force-stop Telegram app.
adb shell rm -rf /sdcard/Android/data/org.telegram.messenger/* # * means everything - all files and folders. Replace it with the directory name and enclose it in "" if the files to be deleted are inside a sub-directory.
```
Alternatively, you can do it using a terminal emulator app:
1. Force-stop Telegram app from Setting → Apps → Telegram → Force stop.
2. Remove `adb shell` from the said second command and run it on terminal app.
Another alternative is to use a third-party file manager and see whether it hangs. I would suggest using even an [automation](/questions/tagged/automation "show questions tagged 'automation'") app. You can use my answer [here](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/124962/96277) for further info. (Tip: Use only the actions not the profiles there. Actions can be performed without a trigger/profile.)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Native Android file manager can delete the folder and all it contents
There is no UI showing the progress, but you can check the free space that is getting expanded periodically.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/14 | 513 | 2,027 | <issue_start>username_0: When my phone MOTOROLA G3(2015) is updated to Marshmallow, its not showing files when connected to PC. While connecting, it shows options as charing only, PTP, MTP, MIDI. When I select MTP, it shows the external card, but not showing the contents, where as internal memory is detected and all files are shown.<issue_comment>username_1: This is a well discussed and easy to fix bug... Disconnect USB cable, go to Settings, Apps, and Show System Apps and find External Storage and Media Storage and clear data and cache on each one and reboot, then give it 5 min after full boot up to rebuild media databases and connect to USB and select MTP. Should be good to go.
EDIT: In some instances where the SD card contains a large number of (media) files, it can take more than 5 minutes for the databases to rebuild. There is no way to see if the status of this database buildup in the phone itself, so sometimes you just have to be patient.
Also note that some users have stated that this is not sufficient by itself, but sometimes the system cache partition needs to be wiped and rebuilt. Official instructions for performing this operation from Moto are [here](https://motorola-global-portal.custhelp.com/app/answers/prod_answer_detail/a_id/105527/p/30,6720,9390/kw/clear%20cache). Note that this operation can take significant time... 5-15 minutes, occasionally even longer, do not interrupt the operation.
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_2: After an update from motorola, it works..
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: After about 4 hours of installing drivers, wiping data & cache of apps, wiping cache partition, etc...
I found the solution was just to change USB option from 'MTP' to `Charging` while USB was connected to the computer, then while still connected, change the USB option back to `MTP` once more, voila!
**Edit:** How to find the USB options may vary between devices. On Samsung Galaxy devices, touch and drag the notification bar down, then tap "Connected as a ".
Upvotes: 3 |
2016/01/14 | 279 | 1,072 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently upgraded from an Android 4.4/KitKat Samsung S4 to an Android 5.0/Lollipop Asus Zenfone 2. On my Android 4.4 device, there was a menu button on the bottom left. On my new Zenfone there is no menu button on the bottom of the phone or anywhere else on the device. ON the Zenfone, the return button is now on the bottom left and the Previous selections are on the bottom right. There is a menu function on the Operating system of my phone to the upper right with 3 dots, but that is on the OS of the phone.. My question is where do I find the menu function to use within an app. Many apps use a menu to do certain tasks. Please advise - thank you.<issue_comment>username_1: I just moved to the ZenFone2 from a moto razr as well. Not having a menu button is NOT going to happen. A bit of digging, and found the option to set the recent apps button to menu, on long press. :settings/device/asus customized settings/
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Try back button, press and hold a few seconds. It works on my phone Samsung.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/14 | 503 | 2,068 | <issue_start>username_0: I would like to start using twitter on my smartphone but I do not want to share info with my contacts.
Does Twitter app for android suggest to my contacts to link to my accounts?<issue_comment>username_1: If you add your phone number and synchronise it, then only it use your contacts and keep you updating whom you may know. Who is already on Twitter. Whom you can invite using phone number. Otherwise it doesn't use address book.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: In 2012 it was reported Twitter did upload the address book to their servers. Something changed after that.
In case you're wondering if it has in the past you can visit <https://twitter.com/settings/contacts_dashboard>
If you are using Android 6.0 or higher you can disable the contact permissions as a extra precaution.
The Twitter app doesn't use your contacts unless you explicitly enable this in the settings of the app. Only way to identifies you with others that have is through your email (and mobile number)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: As mentioned in the twitter website's help centre,
[Why is the Twitter app requesting permission to access features on my Android device?](https://support.twitter.com/articles/20171517?lang=en)
>
> When you install the Twitter for Android app on your device, you may
> be prompted to grant permission for the app to access information or
> use features from your device. Almost all apps need certain
> permissions to run on Android, and we use these permissions to run
> features in the Twitter for Android app. Keep in mind that Android
> controls the way the permissions are named, and the way they are named
> doesn’t necessarily reflect the way the Twitter app uses them.
>
>
>
And yes it is mentioned in the article and in you question, it reads you contacts for the purpose of friend suggestions,
>
> If you choose to import contacts from your device to Twitter, this
> permission allows us to suggest friends to you in addition to
> suggesting you to friends on Twitter.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/14 | 777 | 2,730 | <issue_start>username_0: I have 200 Russian Phones to flash with UK Firmware. Now when i flash the UK firmware through Odin, it works fine but Russian firmware is still on it, however it does become UK if i factory reset the phone after that.
Now my question is that if there is any way where I don't have to factory reset the device and it automatically does it after Odin flash. That way I will save a lot of time.
I have tried these things:
* "adb --wipe\_data", this doesn't work because I don't how to really send a command to Recovery.
* Cygwin terminal to break down firmware file into 4 file (AP, MODEM, BOOTLOADER and CSC). this doesn't work either.
Any help will be great. Many thanks<issue_comment>username_1: You can try this while the phones is on.
(You MUST have USB debugging enabled and authorized)
*adb shell recovery --wipe\_data*
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: **The arguments which may be supplied in the recovery.command file:**
```
* --send_intent=anystring - write the text out to recovery.intent
* --update_package=path - verify install an OTA package file
* --wipe_data - erase user data (and cache), then reboot
* --wipe_cache - wipe cache (but not user data), then reboot
* --set_encrypted_filesystem=on|off - enables / diasables encrypted fs
```
You can take a look at here also:
[**Wipe data/Factory reset through ADB**](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/10817721/wipe-data-factory-reset-through-adb)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: *Source:* [Factory Resettin an Android Device from a Computer](http://smallbusiness.chron.com/factory-resetting-android-phone-computer-71407.html)
>
> **Step 7**
> Turn on your Android phone and connect it to a USB port on your computer. Type “adb shell” and press “Enter.” When ADB connects to your device, type “--wipe\_data” and press “Enter.” Your phone restarts in recovery mode and restores Android to factory settings.
>
>
>
But judging from your question the way you where doing the wipe command via adb was wrong.The way you where doing it was: "adb --wipe\_data" where's you should try "adb shell" and then "--wipe\_data"
A the list of arguments include:
>
> * The arguments which may be supplied in the recovery.command file: \* --send\_intent=anystring - write the text out to recovery.intent \* --update\_package=path - verify install an OTA package file \* --wipe\_data - erase user data (and cache), then reboot \* --wipe\_cache - wipe cache (but not user data), then reboot \* --set\_encrypted\_filesystem=on|off - enables / diasables encrypted fs
>
>
>
*Source:*[Wipe data/factory reset through adb](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/10817721/wipe-data-factory-reset-through-adb)
Upvotes: -1 |
2016/01/14 | 883 | 3,158 | <issue_start>username_0: Assume you lost your Pebble watch in somewhere your room. You can find it by asking someone calling you but assume you cannot do it. You just have your Android phone.
Find My Pebble Application
--------------------------
I think the application does not work. You install the application. I appears under your Applications in your phone. The front-end of the application contains only Settings and Delete. Settings does not work. You cannot Find your application by the app. You have to each time install and uninstall the application to find your Pebble. I think this kind of logic stupid. I am using Pebble Classing with Samsung Galaxy S4 GT-i9506 Android 5.0.1 Lollipop. Similar problem of the application also recorded [here](https://forums.getpebble.com/discussion/12797/watchapp-find-my-pebble)
>
> Agreed that not having to unload and load would improve the concept.
>
>
>
The front-end of the application is also buggy, crashing to open the Pebble-settings page too to get the view "Settings/Delete" in your phone.
---
How can you find your Pebble smartwatch with your Android phone?<issue_comment>username_1: You can try this while the phones is on.
(You MUST have USB debugging enabled and authorized)
*adb shell recovery --wipe\_data*
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: **The arguments which may be supplied in the recovery.command file:**
```
* --send_intent=anystring - write the text out to recovery.intent
* --update_package=path - verify install an OTA package file
* --wipe_data - erase user data (and cache), then reboot
* --wipe_cache - wipe cache (but not user data), then reboot
* --set_encrypted_filesystem=on|off - enables / diasables encrypted fs
```
You can take a look at here also:
[**Wipe data/Factory reset through ADB**](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/10817721/wipe-data-factory-reset-through-adb)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: *Source:* [Factory Resettin an Android Device from a Computer](http://smallbusiness.chron.com/factory-resetting-android-phone-computer-71407.html)
>
> **Step 7**
> Turn on your Android phone and connect it to a USB port on your computer. Type “adb shell” and press “Enter.” When ADB connects to your device, type “--wipe\_data” and press “Enter.” Your phone restarts in recovery mode and restores Android to factory settings.
>
>
>
But judging from your question the way you where doing the wipe command via adb was wrong.The way you where doing it was: "adb --wipe\_data" where's you should try "adb shell" and then "--wipe\_data"
A the list of arguments include:
>
> * The arguments which may be supplied in the recovery.command file: \* --send\_intent=anystring - write the text out to recovery.intent \* --update\_package=path - verify install an OTA package file \* --wipe\_data - erase user data (and cache), then reboot \* --wipe\_cache - wipe cache (but not user data), then reboot \* --set\_encrypted\_filesystem=on|off - enables / diasables encrypted fs
>
>
>
*Source:*[Wipe data/factory reset through adb](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/10817721/wipe-data-factory-reset-through-adb)
Upvotes: -1 |
2016/01/15 | 421 | 1,278 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm using the red mi 2 and data transfer is taking place via wifi, problem is I don't know which app is using it. Is there a way to see wifi usage statistics?<issue_comment>username_1: Go to: *Settings > Data usage – WIRELESS & NETWORKS*
1. Tap the right-top menu. It will open up a popup menu.
2. Check \*Show Wi-Fi usage.
3. Go to *Data Usage*. You'll realize a new tab called WIFI is added nexto to MOBILE.
4. There, you can see all apps that use WIFI and how much data they use.
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FrfSx.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/flbDj.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bmtsg.png)
>
> Visual how-to (source: [TeckFront](http://teckfront.com/view-data-usage-wi-fi-android-4-4-kitkat-device/ "How to view the data usage over Wi-Fi"); click images for larger variants)
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: For even more detail, I recommend [Trepn Profiler](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.quicinc.trepn) from the Play store. It's developed by Qualcomm and analyses CPU usage, Wifi and cellular data usage, and more.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/16 | 758 | 2,596 | <issue_start>username_0: I was updating my Nexus 10 tablet - had gotten to the system partition - when I lost the ADB connection. I've since learned that's a problem with newer Macs (I was connected to Windows through Parallels). Because of the lost connection, the system partition did not flash and my tablet is bricked. There is no operating system so it can't boot into Android, but it can boot into the Bootloader and Recovery mode. All the other partitions are fine.
I have a custom recovery (TWRP) and an unlocked bootloader, but I'm at a loss to figure out how to flash the system.img file. I can't boot to Android so I can't connect through ADB in Fastboot mode to flash the ordinary way. I am connected through ADB when I'm in Recovery mode, but I can't use the flash command in Recovery mode. Nor can I figure out a way to make TWRP flash the partition by running it as a zip file - mainly because I can't figure out what the update.zip file should consist of.
I tried pushing the system.img file to the Nexus 10 using the Linux dd command, but that doesn't work with the system partition, which uses a special format. The details are explained here, but I don't fully understand it:
<http://www.modaco.com/forums/topic/327661-how-to-backup-the-systemimg-bootimg-and-recoveryimg/>
I've spent hours and hours trying to figure this out, and I can't. I need help. I hope someone knowledgeable can give me some guidance. I posted in xda, but they ignored me (as usual).
Thanks in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: Go to: *Settings > Data usage – WIRELESS & NETWORKS*
1. Tap the right-top menu. It will open up a popup menu.
2. Check \*Show Wi-Fi usage.
3. Go to *Data Usage*. You'll realize a new tab called WIFI is added nexto to MOBILE.
4. There, you can see all apps that use WIFI and how much data they use.
>
> [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FrfSx.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/flbDj.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bmtsg.png)
>
> Visual how-to (source: [TeckFront](http://teckfront.com/view-data-usage-wi-fi-android-4-4-kitkat-device/ "How to view the data usage over Wi-Fi"); click images for larger variants)
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: For even more detail, I recommend [Trepn Profiler](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.quicinc.trepn) from the Play store. It's developed by Qualcomm and analyses CPU usage, Wifi and cellular data usage, and more.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/16 | 1,000 | 3,911 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Redmi 2 Pro, and it works fine, except for some issues with the battery. If I charge it to 100% before I disconnect the charger and go to sleep, by the morning it may go down only to 98%, but if I leave it on around 70% for the night it can even shut down by the time i wake up. In every case I use CleanMaster to shut unnecessary apps down before I go to bed. The possible shutdown makes it completely unreliable when it comes to morning alarms.
One solution may be to leave it on charger for the whole night, but i heard about it being damaging to the battery. Is it? What can i do?<issue_comment>username_1: Based on the information provided, it appears that the problem could be due to any of the following factors:
1. **Weak/Dying Battery:** Can be verified by changing the battery
2. **System not going to deep sleep:** Could be due to wakelocks letting the system alive either from apps or system like media server. Clean Master may say that it had killed apps, but it cannot kill apps completely , including background processes unless it has root capability and is designed to do so. Neither does it ask for root permissions nor does the app description claim it can kill background processes, so one cannot trust that it is really killing your apps
I would first suggest that you do a factory reset after taking a back up of your data. I am presuming your device is not rooted, so you can see this for taking a back up [Full Backup of non-rooted devices](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/28296/full-backup-of-non-rooted-devices). This solution does not cater for SMS, contacts/ calendar which can be done using [CM backup](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ijinshan.kbackup)
Instructions for doing a factory reset for your device [here](http://en.miui.com/thread-135914-1-1.html). If the problem persists after factory reset, then I would suggest you to change your battery.
I am hopeful that this should resolve the problem. Please revert with Irvine and edit your question with additional information sought in the comments section, which would come in useful if the problem is not resolved
Coming to your other question, leaving it on charger overnight is **not recommended**, since the Battery gets internally hot and stress caused by this reduces battery life as you can read [Find out how to prolong battery life by using correct charge methods.](http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries). Related inputs for additional reading [Should I charge phone overnight or let battery down to a minimum?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/103891/should-i-charge-phone-overnight-or-let-battery-down-to-a-minimum?s=1|0.4571)
**Edit**
Are you on MUI 3.6.6.0? Asking since rapid battery drain seems to be a problem , unresolved till mid last year, as per reports [here](http://en.miui.com/thread-135914-1-1.html)
In any case, your device has the facility to identify battery consumption separately for hardware and software (app wise) as shown in screen shot below taken from the same source. Can you study that to identify the culprit, in case of rapid drain? You can quickly weed out the battery hogging apps using this
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Z68V.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I can say one thing based on my experince.. i have a samsung galaxy tab 3. I had these issue.. below 70% the battery has some kind of wierd problems. I was using some apps that claims to free memory etc like clean master, 360 security, battery saver etc. I dont know specifically what i used. But that was the reason. Android has inbuilt ram and battery management. These apps doesnt do anything but harms. They take huge space in memory and drains battery faster. Better delete such apps and check your battery..
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/16 | 920 | 3,604 | <issue_start>username_0: In a recovery mode, there are many options, such as:
* Apply update from SD card
* Wipe data/factory reset
* Wipe cache partition
* Backup and restore
But I can't find to install zip from SD card for installing zip file.
How to get option as install zip from SD card in recovery mode?<issue_comment>username_1: Based on the information provided, it appears that the problem could be due to any of the following factors:
1. **Weak/Dying Battery:** Can be verified by changing the battery
2. **System not going to deep sleep:** Could be due to wakelocks letting the system alive either from apps or system like media server. Clean Master may say that it had killed apps, but it cannot kill apps completely , including background processes unless it has root capability and is designed to do so. Neither does it ask for root permissions nor does the app description claim it can kill background processes, so one cannot trust that it is really killing your apps
I would first suggest that you do a factory reset after taking a back up of your data. I am presuming your device is not rooted, so you can see this for taking a back up [Full Backup of non-rooted devices](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/28296/full-backup-of-non-rooted-devices). This solution does not cater for SMS, contacts/ calendar which can be done using [CM backup](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ijinshan.kbackup)
Instructions for doing a factory reset for your device [here](http://en.miui.com/thread-135914-1-1.html). If the problem persists after factory reset, then I would suggest you to change your battery.
I am hopeful that this should resolve the problem. Please revert with Irvine and edit your question with additional information sought in the comments section, which would come in useful if the problem is not resolved
Coming to your other question, leaving it on charger overnight is **not recommended**, since the Battery gets internally hot and stress caused by this reduces battery life as you can read [Find out how to prolong battery life by using correct charge methods.](http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries). Related inputs for additional reading [Should I charge phone overnight or let battery down to a minimum?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/103891/should-i-charge-phone-overnight-or-let-battery-down-to-a-minimum?s=1|0.4571)
**Edit**
Are you on MUI 3.6.6.0? Asking since rapid battery drain seems to be a problem , unresolved till mid last year, as per reports [here](http://en.miui.com/thread-135914-1-1.html)
In any case, your device has the facility to identify battery consumption separately for hardware and software (app wise) as shown in screen shot below taken from the same source. Can you study that to identify the culprit, in case of rapid drain? You can quickly weed out the battery hogging apps using this
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Z68V.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I can say one thing based on my experince.. i have a samsung galaxy tab 3. I had these issue.. below 70% the battery has some kind of wierd problems. I was using some apps that claims to free memory etc like clean master, 360 security, battery saver etc. I dont know specifically what i used. But that was the reason. Android has inbuilt ram and battery management. These apps doesnt do anything but harms. They take huge space in memory and drains battery faster. Better delete such apps and check your battery..
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/16 | 1,211 | 4,682 | <issue_start>username_0: Let me explain the scenario:
I **always** keep my phone in vibration mode (no ringer, no notification sounds, just the vibration), since I'm a forgetful person and I'd end up forgetting to turn the ringer off when I'm in a meeting or other occasions when it wouldn't be appropriate.
This works fine for my needs, except in one instance: when listening to music. When I listen to music I typically keep my phone in the pocket of my jacket and I end up missing all my notifications, since between the music and the fact I don't have the phone in my hand or on my desk I can't hear nor feel the vibration.
My question is: is there a way to turn the ringer/notification sound on when the headphones are connected, while keeping it off when they aren't?
I'm running rooted stock Marshmallow (6.0.1)<issue_comment>username_1: Ensure [Tasker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.dinglisch.android.taskerm "Tasker on Google Play") is installed and enabled. I tested this with Tasker 4.8 on Android 6.0.1 Marshmallow. If you are using Tasker on Marshmallow, it will work more effectively if you disable battery optimisation under the Android Settings (although this may also drain the battery quicker). To do this, navigate to `Battery` -> `Triple dot menu` (in the upper-right hand corner) -> `Battery optimisation`. Then click on the drop-down menu and select `All apps` and scroll down to `Tasker`. Click on `Tasker` and press `Don't optimise` followed by `Done`.
To do this, open Tasker and create a new task. Name it whatever you like. Then add an action and navigate to `Audio` -> `Ringer Volume`. Drag the slider to 7 (this is the maximum volume and you can adjust this if you want). Do the same for `Audio` -> `Notifcation Volume` under the same task.
Now add a profile and navigate to `State` -> `Hardware` -> `Headset Plugged`. Don't change the default options here and navigate back. You will now be prompted to add a task. Select the task that you created earlier.
Once ensuring that the profile is enabled, exit Tasker and set your notifcation/ringer volume to vibrate.
That's it. The ringer and notification volumes should now change automatically when you plug and unplug your headphones.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I don't have Android Marshmallow but following apps can easily achieve the goal on Android Lollipop 5.1. Should not fail on your OS, I believe. Let me know the result in any case.
[MacroDroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.arlosoft.macrodroid)
===================================================================================
**When headphones are plugged:**
* Trigger: Headphones Insert/Remove → Headphones Inserted
* Action: Volume Change → select Notification and Ringer, and configure the slider for the level of volume you want
**When headphones are removed:**
* Trigger: Headphones Insert/Remove → Headphones Removed
* Action: Volume Change → select Notification and Ringer, and keep the slider to 0
[Automate](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.llamalab.automate)
===============================================================================
It seems to work too. Your flow should look like this:
(Click image to enlarge)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/e3pGd.png)
Relevant blocks:
* Interface → Wired headset plugged?
* Settings → Ringer mode set
The said flow would cause the ringer and notification volume to come back to the level you set them to, before switching the phone to vibration.
[Atooma](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.atooma)
==================================================================
It worked as well. However, it appears to not been updated since May 2015.
**When headphones are connected:**
* IF: Headphone → Plugged
* DO: Audio Manager → Set ringer volume → configure the slider
* DO: Audio Manager → Notification volume → configure the slider
**When headphones are removed:**
* IF: Headphone → Unplugged
* DO: Silent mode → On → Vibrate: Yes
[Droid Automation](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wakdev.droidautomation.free)
=================================================================================================
It also worked well for me.
Instructions:
1. Profile: Headset plugged
1. Trigger: Headset state → Becomes plugged
2. Task: Sounds & Media → Volume: Ringtones → configure
3. Task: Sounds & Media → Volume: Notifications → configure
2. Profile: Headset unplugged
1. Trigger: Headset state → Becomes unplugged
2. Task: Sounds & Media → Volume: Ringtones → configure to zero
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2016/01/16 | 1,093 | 4,102 | <issue_start>username_0: I read the [Using Hardware Devices](http://developer.android.com/tools/device.html) page that describes how to connect your device to Android Studio that allows you to install and run your apps on your device. But I have a Xiaomi RedMi 2, and the [link](http://www.xiaomi.com/c/driver/index.html) that they provide that allows you to download the [OEM USB Driver](http://developer.android.com/tools/extras/oem-usb.html) for my device is all in Chinese. How do I install the required driver?<issue_comment>username_1: Below is the google translation: hope it works for you.
>
> [Abstract] to install the driver, is the beginning of our wire brush,
> brush machine process is a very important step, but also a lot of
> local friends easily qualify problem areas. Just use a USB cable can
> not be achieved mobile phone and computer information exchange, but
> also need to drive.
>
>
> Click here to download the millet phone drivers:
> <http://bigota.d.miui.com/tools/xiaomi_usb_driver.rar>
>
>
> Install the driver, is the beginning of our wire brush, brush machine
> process is a very important step, but also a lot of local friends
> easily qualify problem areas. Just use a USB cable can not be achieved
> mobile phone and computer information exchange, but also need to
> drive.
>
>
> First of all, I do not recommend to install the phone drivers to use
> wizard-driven software or pea pods, millet has provided official
> drivers, in my opinion, this driver should be the most secure, but
> with other software to install, simply by hardware identification to
> select the drive, and the identification is correct or not can not be
> 100% sure, this process is not artificially controlled, equivalent to
> drive right to choose to install a mindless software, I think it is
> not so reliable .
>
>
> Driver installation is a wire brush and turn on USB debugging to
> operate the first step of the phone, very important, the situation is
> a lot of brush machine failures are caused by improper installation of
> the drive, I hope you pay attention to drive installation. I trust
> that, in the Device Manager under the windows of the hardware manager
> millet choose to install the official driver.
>
>
> [Recognizes three modes] In the boot state, after off USB debugging
> connect the phone to a computer, mobile phone should be recognized as
> a portable device, and the USB debugging turned on, is recognized as
> androidphone and portable devices in fastboot mode is identified as
> fastbootinterface.
>
>
> Under fastboot mode USB Debugging on mode USB Debugging OFF mode
>
>
> [Specific installation steps] To turn on USB debugging mode, win7
> system installation drive, for example, the installation steps as
> follows:
>
>
> 1. USB debugging turned on the phone, connected to a computer, but right-click "Computer" (XP is "My Computer") → "Management" → Device
> Manager
> 2. Right "android" → "Update Driver Software" → "Browse my computer for driver"
> 3. millet phone to find driving compressed file, right -
> "pressure to the current folder", select millet phone drivers extract
> the folder "xiaomi\_usb\_driver", the next step
> 4. jumped a security warning, click "Install this driver software"
> 5. and then is done [Driver information] Driver installation, in fact, is
> to copy the driver files to the system folder, determine whether the
> driver is installed properly, you can view the information. Driver
> information fastboot mode Driver information open USB debugging mode.
> Close driver information USB debugging mode So far, my experience
> sharing driver installation is over, we want to help the old and new
> rice.
>
>
> Click here to download the millet phone drivers:
> <http://bigota.d.miui.com/tools/xiaomi_usb_driver.rar>
>
>
>
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Install [Mi PC Suite](http://pcsuite.mi.com/) instead, it will work. It [automatically installs the drivers](http://www.technobuzz.net/install-android-usb-driver-xiaomi-devices/).
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/17 | 689 | 2,768 | <issue_start>username_0: I have begun doing Android development a few months ago and it still blows my mind why an end-user that buys an Android machine cannot is is not allowed to have full access to it (aka root acccess), except through unsupported and dangerous hacks that grant root permission. For example, I want to send raw wifi packets for my current development idea, but the SDK doesn't allow this (for "security" resons?). An Android phone is a Linux machine after all, so what is going on?! My question is about the way Android is designed and distributed. I've read that people seem to say there is a malware risk, but isn't the risk just as high on a normal PC?<issue_comment>username_1: Let me take this in hand part by part.
>
> Why an end-user that buys an Android machine cannot is is not allowed
> to have full access to it (aka root acccess), except through
> unsupported and dangerous hacks that grant root permission.
>
>
>
Plenty of reasons:
* That way, the manufacturer makes sure that you can not harm your phone's software in a way that is beyond saving.
* Lots of bloatware you see on your phone are there for commercial purposes. If a manufacturer literally lets you take down the app they get paid to place there, they won't get paid for it again.
* Even most people who intentionally root their phone don't know what they are doing, and what the root user is capable of. Giving that kind of a permission to an average user is dangerous.
* Manufacturers want to restrict the power of your phone so that they can sell you a *better* phone in the future.
List goes on.
>
> An Android phone is a Linux machine after all, so what is going on?!
>
>
>
Linux also has the same security methods. Except that root user is available to user. However, we have to accept that a smart phone and a computer are for two different purposes, even though they are the same fundamentally.
>
> I've
> read that people seem to say there is a malware risk, but isn't the
> risk just as high on a normal PC?
>
>
>
No, just no. A normal PC is so much more open to malware attacks. A rooted malware can literally hard-brick your phone for good. Even though there are some exploits malwares can take advantage of and gain root, new security features like SELinux makes it harder for them. So comparing a PC and Android based on means of security is a flawed way of thinking.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The majority of customer has no interest in root access and the corresponding capabilizies and dangers - they want to use their phone and that's it.
Did you ever try to 'root' the processor in your car? (It's basically Linux too) Do you think cars should come rooted? Same point, but even stronger.
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/17 | 505 | 1,776 | <issue_start>username_0: I don't seem to find the recorded files on my Samsung Galaxy S6. What is the file path to the saved recording files? Google doesn't tell me the answer.<issue_comment>username_1: I can't say with absolute certainty where they are on a Samsung S6, but on my Samsung Galaxy Note 3, and I doubt that they change their filesystem layout too much from one device to the next.
I can see them from Windows 10 at:
```
This PC\SM-N900T\Phone\Sounds\Voice 001.m4a
This PC\SM-N900T\Phone\Sounds\Voice 002.m4a
This PC\SM-N900T\Phone\Sounds\Voice 003.m4a
This PC\SM-N900T\Phone\Sounds\Voice . . .
```
Obviously the mount point will have a different name through other operating systems, but the path from the mount point will be the same.
As viewed from within the phone itself, they're at:
```
/storage/emulated/0/Sounds/Voice . . .
```
If Samsung changes things between devices, well, shame on them. Then this won't help you, but it will at least help people with the same layout as the Galaxy 3.
I found it by searching from within ES File Explorer, and checked for similar names through the Windows mount point. So if it's not in the same place, you can at least search for it that way.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: This was the path I ended up finding using a local search. I didn't change it so this must be the default path for the Samsung Voice Recorder
\Samsung Galaxy Note 5\Phone\Call
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Recordings can be found under: settings/device maintenance/memory or storage.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Navigate to the Phone. Then click in the "Voice Recorder" folder. The files were there for me.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: On my S8+ it is in Phone/Recorders
Upvotes: -1 |
2016/01/17 | 415 | 1,584 | <issue_start>username_0: Can anyone please tell me, where Androids’ developer options are stored?
I’m trying to modify the Pointer Location developer option in [this](https://github.com/CyanogenMod/android_frameworks_base/blob/cm-13.0/core/java/com/android/internal/widget/PointerLocationView.java) file.
After recompiling Android, where is the file containing the modified sqlite database, system process or binary file, as I would like to exchange the new file with the one on my smartphone.<issue_comment>username_1: The **Developer options** are stored in the file:
```
/data/data/com.android.providers.settings/databases/settings.db
```
Pay attention that this is a database stored on file that includes also other saved options / settings, so just copying over another db file might cause unexpected behaviors.
As pointed out by @username_2 in the comments, this is not applicable since Marshmallow.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: For Android 6.0 and above, it can be found inside the SharedPreferences file:
```
/data/data/com.android.settings/databases/com.android.settings_preferences.xml
```
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: On my LineageOS on Android Nougat the file was located at
```
/data/system/users/0/settings_global.xml
```
I guess the `0` after the `/users`/ is my user id.
If this location differs from android version // distribution you might want to find the file via something like
```
find | grep "settings_global.xml"
```
or another search string using the `adb shell` or another way to access the shell on your device.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/17 | 1,452 | 4,913 | <issue_start>username_0: Both [Remix OS](http://www.jide.com/en/remixos-for-pc) and [Phoenix OS](http://www.phoenixos.com/download_x86) are free Chinese Android desktop distributions for x86\_64 PC-s based on Android-x86. But how do they differ, excluding different themes?<issue_comment>username_1: This is a community wiki, you can extend it.
---
According to [Phoenix Studio forum](http://bbs.phoenixstudio.org/read.php?tid=1986&fid=12) ([translation](http://www.microsofttranslator.com/bv.aspx?from=&to=en&a=http%3A%2F%2Fbbs.phoenixstudio.org%2Fread.php%3Ftid%3D1986%26fid%3D12)) and other sources:
* both are based on Android 5.1 Lollipop,
* both support Legacy BIOS and UEFI boot methods, but sometimes Phoenix OS Legacy mode does not boot, unlike UEFI,
* Remix OS lacks adjustable windows and some of them can only be maximized or minimized,
* Remix OS requires USB 3.0, Phoenix OS only USB 2.0,
* Phoenix OS boots faster,
* Phoenix OS fluency and functionality are better than the Remix OS,
* Phoenix OS 1.0 is 370MB, Remix OS 2.0 is 689 MB, both zipped.
Remix OS 2.0 Launcher:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KGlNC.jpg)
Phoenix OS 1.0 Launcher:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/94mkf.jpg)
Images source: Softpedia
Video comparison: <http://youtu.be/E6BNcXRyOr4>
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Add to the above answer; from what I found while testing both OSes:-
* Phoenix OS is now x86 only platform, while Remix is x86/Arm
* Phoenix OS supports window transparency.
* File manager in Phoenix OS makes more sense in use.
* Settings panel of Phoenix OS is more well-organised.
* Phoenix OS still lacks of Ethernet support. (major drawback).
* Phoenix OS doesn't support 2nd screen output (on laptops), while Remix can mirror and allows the main screen to be turned off via laptop's function key.
* Applications running in full-screen (most 3D games) work properly in Remix OS, while those running on Phoenix OS tend to leave space at the bottom (what likely the size of hidden status bar+title bar) and miscalculate the mouse position in Y-axis (title bar height above the actual picture on screen).
My personal verdict so far:-
* If you just need the desktop oriented Android and play games less,
choose Phoenix OS.
* If you care more for Android 3D games, choose Remix OS.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: I can add to the above:
* In PhoenixOS clicking "X" in the top window bar doesn't kill the app; thanks to that, apps can run in background without icon being visible in the bottom taskbar (like in Remix)
* PhoenixOS works with floating windows just fine, no matter of app window size. RemixOS fails at this quite much - works only for some apps and only in fullscreen mode
* PhoenixOS has already built-in brightness control availible in Display options, slider on the notification area and via function keys on keyboard; RemixOS has this hidden, but it works with function keys
* RemixOS since ver .205 lags significantly due to badly designed use of android.process.media - Media Storage (media scanner); PhoenixOS still has a media scanner, but it works just fine without overusing CPU/storage resources. Moreover, RemixOS won't respect "pm hide android.process.media" command. It won't disable the lagging app. What's interesting, in PhoenixOS this command is useless too, but in Phoenix, u can Disable any app you want in settings, in Remix you don't.
* RemixOS has better performance in 3D like @username_2 reported, but PhoenixOS starts and runs all other apps way better then Remix; it can easily compete with Windows 8.1 on my Asus T100TA (2GB RAM, Atom Z3740)
* RemixOS mounts all drives live with no 3rd party apps; PhoenixOS opposite
**- To make things clear: PhoenixOS will output video to an external monitor just fine, but it will display it only on the external device and only if you plug it in before booting**
For now, I fully agree with @username_2.
* PhoenixOS has far better windows system, start menu and notification area making the system more friendly and intuitive; feels much more complete then the RemixOS
* RemixOS right now is only better at games and overall feels like more like an alpha build
**UPDATE:**
I've just tested RemixOS 32bit on my Asus T100TA (32bit UEFI) and it's super fast, but of course I had to get rid of android.process.media app in order to get the performance reliable.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: In the latest update Phoenix OS also supports ethernet connections. I have been using both OSes but Phoenix OS is faster in booting and running apps, so I prefer Phoenix OS to Remix OS.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: There is a useful and detailed comparison of Phoenix, Remix, and plain Android-x86 from August 2016 here:
<http://apcmag.com/371021.htm/>
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/18 | 262 | 1,166 | <issue_start>username_0: My phone drains a lot of battery during the day so I was wondering if the greenify app helps with the battery problem<issue_comment>username_1: Technically YES. Basically what it does is hibernate selected apps. That means the apps you selected for greenification will not work service after inactivity like screen lock etc. They will start again as soon as you launch them again. So it should help battery problem!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: They are right, it hibernates apps..if you are rooted with xposed it really does magic, but most modern apps are coded to restart persistently so a lot will restart after being hibernated because without root and xposed it can't hold the apps closed, it merely force stops them but that can still be effective if you only hibernate apps that don't restart until you open them. You'll have to just try and see which ones will behave, if you hibernate apps that restart and just keep closing then you will end up burning more battery. If you choose to root them you gotta lot of research and studying to do but it's well worth it but you gotta know what you're doing, good luck
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/18 | 1,074 | 3,447 | <issue_start>username_0: Due to my displeasure with the new SD card as internal storage of Marsmallow, I decided to switch back to Link2SD, something which I had been using on previous versions of Android. However, there's a problem. If I try to create the mount scripts for my partitioned SD card, I get the following error:
```
Mount script cannot be created
mount: '/dev/block/vold/179:66'->'/data/sdext2': No such file or directory
```
Does anybody know how to get Link2SD to work on the Marshmallow?<issue_comment>username_1: ```
#!/system/bin/sh
mount -t ext4 -o rw /dev/block/mmcblk1p2 /data/sdext2
mount -t ext4 -o rw /dev/block/vold/179:66 /data/sdext2
```
You may have to make the vold line be:
```
mount -t ext4 -o rw /dev/block/vold/public:179:66 /data/sdext2
```
It all depends upon how you let Marshmallow format your card on first boot.
Use [Apps2SD](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=in.co.pricealert.apps2sd) to make the script. Simply open the app, go to "Link apps to SD card", select your file system and you are done. It's still in active development and working. After script got created you can uninstall Apps2SD.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I solved the initial problem listed here with:
```
cd /dev/block/vold
ln public:179_66 179:66
```
and then Link2SD was able to do it's tricks; however it still was not useful, and in moving Google Play Music internal data (mp3's) to the SD card made it so that the music program kept crashing.
Removing Link2SD after de-installing is not easy,
```
mount -o remount,rw /system
mv /system/bin/debuggerd.bin /system/bin/debuggerd
rm /system/etc/init.d/11link2sd
mount -o remount,row /system
```
then reboot, otherwise the 2nd partition keeps getting mounted on /data/sdext2
(So I am frustrated that if I merge my SD card as internal memory, Google Play Music will store the mp3's in the limited internal memory instead of the SD card)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Marshmallow internal storage can be better used with a mixed-format SD card *as I also explain in my blog here*:
<http://blog.sam.liddicott.com/2016/02/android-6-semi-adopted-storage.html>
First, you need adb working.
1. Have SD card inserted and formatted as portable.
2. Eject your SD card from the Storage & USB menu
3. Use "adb shell" to list your adoptable storage:
like this
```
$ adb shell sm list-disks adoptable
disk:179_64
```
disk:179\_64 is my SD card that can be made adoptable, I want 75% as external SD:
```
$ adb shell sm partition disk:179_64 mixed 75
```
Note: Your card may be listed with a comma instead of an underscore, e.g. *disk:179,64* in which case, that is what you type:
```
$ adb shell sm partition disk:179,64 mixed 75
```
5. This will erase the entire SD card, giving 75% as portable storage and the rest as adopted internal storage.
6. Reboot your phone.
7. From Storage & USB menu, select the SD card (internal) and choose Migrate Data (so that apps, where possible, are installed there).
8. From the Storage & USB rename the adopted storage to have some name like *Adopted* otherwise if it has the same name as the external storage partition, the USB MTP view may only show the internal
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: As others have hinted, you can use [Apps2SD](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=in.co.pricealert.apps2sd) to create the mount script and simply uninstall it when you're done.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/19 | 2,414 | 6,541 | <issue_start>username_0: I have root access and am able to remount. I created a folder in `/system/lib/` named `rfsa`, but I don't know why I cannot see or open that folder.
When I type `ls`, it is there. But when I type `ls -l`, I get this error
```
lstat './rfsa' failed: I/O error.
```
The first time I get this error, I have to reboot and root and remount again.
Also, if I try `rmdir /system/lib/rfsa/` (I created this folder myself), I get this error
```
rmdir: rfsa: Read-only file system
```
Any ideas what can I try?
---
Here it is before the `ls -l` command:
```
/dev/block/bootdevice/by-name/system /system ext4 rw,seclabel,relatime,discard,data=ordered 0 0
```
After `ls -l` and getting the error, it changes to:
```
/dev/block/bootdevice/by-name/system /system ext4 ro,seclabel,relatime,discard,data=ordered 0 0
```
---
I don't have busybox, but the first time I try `mount -w -o remount -t ext4 /dev/block/bootdevice/by-name/system /system`, nothing is changed. After I get the file I/O error, this time I get:
```
mount: Read-only file system
```
Here is the `cat /proc/mounts` output, before I try to access the bad folder:
```
rootfs / rootfs ro,seclabel 0 0
tmpfs /dev tmpfs rw,seclabel,nosuid,relatime,size=949072k,nr_inodes=237268,mode=755 0 0
devpts /dev/pts devpts rw,seclabel,relatime,mode=600 0 0
proc /proc proc rw,relatime 0 0
sysfs /sys sysfs rw,seclabel,relatime 0 0
selinuxfs /sys/fs/selinux selinuxfs rw,relatime 0 0
debugfs /sys/kernel/debug debugfs rw,seclabel,relatime 0 0
none /acct cgroup rw,relatime,cpuacct 0 0
none /sys/fs/cgroup tmpfs rw,seclabel,relatime,size=949072k,nr_inodes=237268,mode=750,gid=1000 0 0
tmpfs /mnt tmpfs rw,seclabel,relatime,size=949072k,nr_inodes=237268,mode=755,gid=1000 0 0
none /dev/cpuctl cgroup rw,relatime,cpu 0 0
pstore /sys/fs/pstore pstore rw,seclabel,relatime 0 0
adb /dev/usb-ffs/adb functionfs rw,relatime 0 0
/dev/block/bootdevice/by-name/system /system ext4 rw,seclabel,relatime,discard,data=ordered 0 0
/dev/block/bootdevice/by-name/cache /cache ext4 rw,seclabel,nosuid,nodev,relatime,data=ordered 0 0
/dev/block/bootdevice/by-name/persist /persist ext4 rw,seclabel,nosuid,nodev,relatime,data=ordered 0 0
/dev/block/bootdevice/by-name/dsp /dsp ext4 rw,seclabel,nosuid,nodev,relatime,data=ordered 0 0
/dev/block/bootdevice/by-name/modem /firmware vfat ro,context=u:object_r:firmware_file:s0,relatime,uid=1000,gid=1000,fmask=0337,dmask=0227,codepage=437,iocharset=iso8859-1,shortname=lower,errors=remount-ro 0 0
/dev/block/bootdevice/by-name/tctpersist /tctpersist ext4 rw,seclabel,nosuid,nodev,relatime,data=ordered 0 0
/dev/block/bootdevice/by-name/hdcp /persist/data ext4 rw,seclabel,nosuid,nodev,relatime,data=ordered 0 0
tmpfs /storage tmpfs rw,seclabel,relatime,size=949072k,nr_inodes=237268,mode=755,gid=1000 0 0
/dev/block/dm-0 /data ext4 rw,seclabel,nosuid,nodev,relatime,discard,noauto_da_alloc,data=ordered 0 0
/dev/fuse /mnt/runtime/default/emulated fuse rw,nosuid,nodev,noexec,noatime,user_id=1023,group_id=1023,default_permissions,allow_other 0 0
/dev/fuse /storage/emulated fuse rw,nosuid,nodev,noexec,noatime,user_id=1023,group_id=1023,default_permissions,allow_other 0 0
/dev/fuse /mnt/runtime/read/emulated fuse rw,nosuid,nodev,noexec,noatime,user_id=1023,group_id=1023,default_permissions,allow_other 0 0
/dev/fuse /mnt/runtime/write/emulated fuse rw,nosuid,nodev,noexec,noatime,user_id=1023,group_id=1023,default_permissions,allow_other 0 0
root@idol4:/ # cat /proc/mounts | grep system
/dev/block/bootdevice/by-name/system /system ext4 rw,seclabel,relatime,discard,data=ordered 0 0
```<issue_comment>username_1: ```
#!/system/bin/sh
mount -t ext4 -o rw /dev/block/mmcblk1p2 /data/sdext2
mount -t ext4 -o rw /dev/block/vold/179:66 /data/sdext2
```
You may have to make the vold line be:
```
mount -t ext4 -o rw /dev/block/vold/public:179:66 /data/sdext2
```
It all depends upon how you let Marshmallow format your card on first boot.
Use [Apps2SD](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=in.co.pricealert.apps2sd) to make the script. Simply open the app, go to "Link apps to SD card", select your file system and you are done. It's still in active development and working. After script got created you can uninstall Apps2SD.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I solved the initial problem listed here with:
```
cd /dev/block/vold
ln public:179_66 179:66
```
and then Link2SD was able to do it's tricks; however it still was not useful, and in moving Google Play Music internal data (mp3's) to the SD card made it so that the music program kept crashing.
Removing Link2SD after de-installing is not easy,
```
mount -o remount,rw /system
mv /system/bin/debuggerd.bin /system/bin/debuggerd
rm /system/etc/init.d/11link2sd
mount -o remount,row /system
```
then reboot, otherwise the 2nd partition keeps getting mounted on /data/sdext2
(So I am frustrated that if I merge my SD card as internal memory, Google Play Music will store the mp3's in the limited internal memory instead of the SD card)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Marshmallow internal storage can be better used with a mixed-format SD card *as I also explain in my blog here*:
<http://blog.sam.liddicott.com/2016/02/android-6-semi-adopted-storage.html>
First, you need adb working.
1. Have SD card inserted and formatted as portable.
2. Eject your SD card from the Storage & USB menu
3. Use "adb shell" to list your adoptable storage:
like this
```
$ adb shell sm list-disks adoptable
disk:179_64
```
disk:179\_64 is my SD card that can be made adoptable, I want 75% as external SD:
```
$ adb shell sm partition disk:179_64 mixed 75
```
Note: Your card may be listed with a comma instead of an underscore, e.g. *disk:179,64* in which case, that is what you type:
```
$ adb shell sm partition disk:179,64 mixed 75
```
5. This will erase the entire SD card, giving 75% as portable storage and the rest as adopted internal storage.
6. Reboot your phone.
7. From Storage & USB menu, select the SD card (internal) and choose Migrate Data (so that apps, where possible, are installed there).
8. From the Storage & USB rename the adopted storage to have some name like *Adopted* otherwise if it has the same name as the external storage partition, the USB MTP view may only show the internal
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: As others have hinted, you can use [Apps2SD](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=in.co.pricealert.apps2sd) to create the mount script and simply uninstall it when you're done.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/19 | 596 | 2,185 | <issue_start>username_0: Maybe that is less an android and more an operator policy question, but posting here because it may very well be a bug in Hangouts, the most embarrassing app google ever published.
I have a tmobile SIM from the US. I travelled abroad and i could send free SMS to that country (by sending to plain or `+`) and free SMS to the US (by sending to `+1`).
Now back in the US, i can't send international SMS at all. My default app is Hangouts. Using either my google voice account or the lame-excuse-for-a-UI-SMS-account in hangouts, when i try to send a message to `+` i get a message right after with the text:
>
> Sorry, this service is not available.
>
>
> now via SMS
>
>
>
What is the correct way to send international SMS in the US?<issue_comment>username_1: I'm pretty sure that google hangouts only allows you to **receive** international text and not ***send*** them. Why I don't know its pretty ridiculous if you ask me. Here's their support page. read carefully...
Google Voice Help - [Send & receive text messages](https://support.google.com/voice/answer/115116?hl=en)
>
> You can send and receive text messages using your Google Voice number on the Google Voice website, in the Google Voice app, through your SMS messaging app, or [through Hangouts](https://support.google.com/hangouts/answer/3205713).
>
>
> **International text messages**: At this time, Google Voice supports sending text messages to phone numbers in the U.S. and Canada, but you can receive text messages from anywhere in the world. Currently, Google Voice only supports short codes within the U.S.\*
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: To know if it's your operator, try sending an international message via [Messenger](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.messaging). If it works, then it's Hangouts. Just change app and you're done.
If it still doesn't work, then it's your operator. ~~Use [Google Allo](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.fireball) to send international text messages and you'll be fine.~~ You'll need to contact your operator and see if they can help you.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/19 | 356 | 1,465 | <issue_start>username_0: I used google maps earlier today and now it won't close. I exited the navigation, even restarted my phone, and it's still showing as running in the background. How do I make it close? I have an LG V10.<issue_comment>username_1: I went into setting, did a force stop and then at the top of the page there was a slider I turned to "off" and it fixed the problem.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I spent a long time trying to figure this out and then I accidentally solved it. When you hit the square button to see all the apps running you will see a "pin" next to the "x" which is what you would normally click on to close a running up. If that pin is highlighted the app keeps running. Just tap it to deselect it and then you can close the app normally.
I read a lot of crazy solutions that required rooting and other stuff. It turns out that things work they should I just wasn't aware of the pin button and what it did. I hope you find this useful
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: On my android phone, I tap the home button and it takes me to the navigation app home page. Then I tap the back arrow and it gives me an dialog asking if I want to exit the app.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: on my phone i swiped up from the bottom, which allowed me to see my home button(circle) which i could tap , then went to running apps(the square button on bottom row) and could then swipe sideways to close google maps
Upvotes: 0 |
2016/01/20 | 170 | 708 | <issue_start>username_0: This is strongly related to Android market. I have once used an application which I now cannot find using the search function. Unless it was withdrawn, it must still exist and I want to find it. Obviously the search would be easier if I could just manually go through all applications I ever installed on any phone.
Is that possible?<issue_comment>username_1: Forgive me if you've already tried this, but there's a tab in the Google play store for all apps installed or not. It's under the my apps and games button.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: <https://play.google.com/apps>
Is where you can see a history of all apps you have ever installed.
Upvotes: 1 |
2016/01/20 | 1,010 | 4,115 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a question about pixels and screen resolution of an Android device.
The app I developed was at the time when Samsung Galaxy S III was new. The images for my app had a resolution 2310x1300 (ratio 1.777 to fit screen). Samsung Galaxy S III has a resolution of 1280x720. I chose a higher resolution to have some margin for future devices with larger screens and higher DPI.
But that's not enough these days - Galaxy S6 has a resolution of 2560x1440, that is far higher than the resolution of my images. So I thought that the quality of the images for such a device would be deteriorated since the resolution of the images is lower than the resolution of the display. But when testing the app for the Galaxy S6 I **cannot** see any differences right now - the images scaled for the new device (image resolution of 2310x1300 used in a device with 2560x1440) is at least as good as for an older device with lower resolution.
Have I completely misunderstood how dpi and resolution works?
The images resources are under the `/res/drawable/hdpi` folder.<issue_comment>username_1: Displaying a smaller image than the device is capable of is not going to "deteriorate" the quality of the image, it's just not going to be as good as what the device is capable of. The example image (2310 x 1300) you state should certainly appear "better" on the S6 than the SIII since the image is larger than what the SIII can display so must be scaled *down*. The S6 is capable of displaying all the image.
The fact that you cannot see the difference is probably simply down to your eyesight. Between 306ppi (SIII) and 577ppi (S6) and depending on the type of media being consumed, the average human at average viewing distances is probably not going to be able to tell the difference. 577ppi is getting close to what the human eye is capable of differentiating (at 4 inches)!
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: As mentioned in @w3dk 's answer, you can't see any difference because **you can't see any difference**. As in, your eyes literally can not differentiate between the detail of the picture on either the Galaxy S3 and the Galaxy S6, because in either case, the picture resolution comes close to the eye's limit of resolution (the minimum angular separation of 2 distinct points/objects from a particular distance of observation for which they can be discerned to be distinct from each other). What I will address here are some of your concerns as a developer.
The S3 was a `xhdpi` device, so any apps on it will use image resources in the `/res/drawable/xhdpi/` folder. The S6 is a `xxxhdpi` device, and so any apps on it will use the resources in the `/res/drawable/xxxhdpi/` folder by default, but fall back to the next lower resolution if the requisite folder is not available, utilizing fast image scaling to show the images at the required *abstract* resolution (dip (device independent pixels), not pixels) (dip are hardware-independent, pixels are hardware-dependent).
You are correct in assuming that image quality should have deteriorated under normal conditions, but your images are in fact pretty high-resolution, and combining that with some downscaling on-device for the S6, you actually get a similar quality image as on an S3.
Why do I say downscaling even for the high-resolution S6? Simple. You're probably not using the whole screen to display the image, and probably what `dip` resolution you specified maps out to less than 2310x1300 real hardware pixels, so the image is downscaled.
Contrary to what one may think, downscaling from a high resolution source actually increases image quality, and upscaling from a low resolution source decreases it on final display, given the same final display resolution and similar (except in resolution) source images. [Here](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image_scaling) is my source about scaling as regards image quality.
As @DanHulme succinctly put it:
>
> "An image which has been downscaled from a high-resolution source will look better than one which has been upscaled from a low-resolution source."
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/01/19 | 428 | 1,649 | <issue_start>username_0: Let me first say I am not an Android person and new to this. I am needing to disable applications on 300+ devices. I have a list that they want disabled, now I've been just manually going in and swiping each one to disable them, but this is very time consuming. There has to be an easier way. I was thinking with profile I could make and download it off the internet on each one or each device is encrypted with Mobile Iron, is there something to push to the device's to do this this. My searching has shown nothing useful.
Thanks,
Tablets are LG VK815
Android version 5.0.2<issue_comment>username_1: If the devices are rooted then you can try [ROM Toolbox Lite](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jrummy.liberty.toolbox) app.
Otherwise, I think you are out of luck since disabling applications is a feature which requires root access unless done through Settings app.
**Note:** Most Android builds don't consist of many pre-installed system applications. If the application is not a system application it can only be uninstalled or frozen, not disabled.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can hook the tablets one-by-one up to a computer with ADB drivers installed and USB debugging turned on in the tablets' settings, and run a .bat file with the list of stuff to disable which will look like this:
```
adb shell pm disable com.trash.application
adb shell pm disable com.more.bloatware
[...]
```
It's that easy! Root may be required depending on device.
Here's an example on XDA: [Bloatware disable in .bat file](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=15987140&postcount=7)
Upvotes: 2 |
2016/01/20 | 773 | 3,019 | <issue_start>username_0: On Monday, January 18th, 2016, on a never-network-locked-or-branded Nexus 5, I've noticed that the Google Chrome app was suddenly updated, together with the user-installed "My Cricket" and one other app (possibly Visual Voicemail?), after doing an intended manual update of some unrelated app. In all, 4 apps were updated, when only one was intended to be.
I've uninstalled the Google Chrome updates (which also resulted in the data-loss of the browser history and the open windows), but wasn't able to restore My Cricket to any prior version, since, being user-installed from the Play Store, there's no option to go back.
Today, Wednesday, 20th, the Google Chrome app was force updated again. I've confirmed that its individual settings are not set to autoupdating, nor are the global settings set to apply the updates. Moreover, one of the top reviews for Google Chrome was a 2-star one, dated 19.01.2016, also alleging a forced autoupdate!
* How do I *really* disable the updates? Like, for real, no exceptions?
* Is there a way to see for sure which exact apps were updated? E.g., what was that forth app that I allege must be the "Visual Voicemail" one? (Only the first three apps were visible in the status in the notification bar, but it was mentioned that 4 updates were performed.)
* Is there a way to backup my browser history and the open-windows, to prevent losing it all when uninstalling the unsanctioned update?
* Is there a way to backup all my apps?
Please kindly note that a user-mistake is highly unlikely -- it happened twice, and was also reported by a highly-voted review in the Play Store. Also note that the phone has been disconnected from Cricket many months ago; it's only used through WiFi; so, any sort of network interference is likewise a quite remote possibility (it still has the SIM, though, but it hasn't registered to any network in a very long time now, always showing no reception in the top status bar).<issue_comment>username_1: If the devices are rooted then you can try [ROM Toolbox Lite](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jrummy.liberty.toolbox) app.
Otherwise, I think you are out of luck since disabling applications is a feature which requires root access unless done through Settings app.
**Note:** Most Android builds don't consist of many pre-installed system applications. If the application is not a system application it can only be uninstalled or frozen, not disabled.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can hook the tablets one-by-one up to a computer with ADB drivers installed and USB debugging turned on in the tablets' settings, and run a .bat file with the list of stuff to disable which will look like this:
```
adb shell pm disable com.trash.application
adb shell pm disable com.more.bloatware
[...]
```
It's that easy! Root may be required depending on device.
Here's an example on XDA: [Bloatware disable in .bat file](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=15987140&postcount=7)
Upvotes: 2 |