date stringlengths 10 10 | nb_tokens int64 60 629k | text_size int64 234 1.02M | content stringlengths 234 1.02M |
|---|---|---|---|
2014/09/04 | 324 | 1,290 | <issue_start>username_0: My wife set password to her tablet and asks me to remove it. I opened `settings -> security -> device encryption` entering password but option `none` (i.e. no password) is disabled (with message `turned off by administrator, policy...`). As I understand if I am able to set password to `none` then password should disappears. But I cannot do it, so I suspecting that she is encrypted device somehow.
Is there way to ensure that device encrypted or not? If it is encrypted there is only one way, as I know, hard reset it to remove encryption. But if it is not encrypted, how to remove password?<issue_comment>username_1: 1.From any home screen, tap Apps.
2.Tap Settings
3.Tap the Device tab.
4.Under 'PERSONALIZATION,' tap Lock screen.
5.Tap Screen lock.
6.Confirm your PIN / password, then tap Continue.
7.Tap None.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Finally, after couple of days spent on lurking for the solution was decided to backup photos and other sensitive information and reset device to factory defaults.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: 1. Go to the settings.
2. Tap the device icon on the top.
3. Select lock screen in personalization.
4. Select screen lock. Confirm password and make in none or whatever else.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/04 | 496 | 2,033 | <issue_start>username_0: I just purchased an Android mobile device, and was exploring its great features! I mistakenly activated the Google *Android Device Manager* found on my phone just to feel how it works.
Meanwhile, I realised I've done wrong enabling the remote lock when I later got my device rebooted! Phone was on, but all I get is a black screen. I cannot unlock or perform any operation as there are no optional suggestions provided to get it unlocked or deactivated by the user.
What can I do to access my device again?<issue_comment>username_1: I'm not sure I understand you correctly, but I assume that you have accidentally locked your phone using the `Android Device Manager`.
I suggest you try these steps:
* Open [Android Device Manager](https://www.google.com/android/devicemanager) website.
* Login to the same Google Account set up on your Locked Device.
* Select your locked device on the website.
* Explore the 'Device Lock' options and unlock from there.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If [username_1s answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/81962/16575) doesn't work out:
1. Boot to recovery-menu. How to do it depends on your device, which you didn't specify; usually it's done by powering it off, then holding the `Vol down` and `Power` buttons at the same time for a couple of seconds, until the recovery menu appears.
2. In the recovery menu, select [factory-reset](https://android.stackexchange.com/tags/factory-reset/info) (sometimes labeled "Reset to factory defaults" or similar). This will wipe all user data (including settings and the apps you've installed) from the device, and thus also your preferences for the lock.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: If you haven't used android Device Manager and A third party app like AVG then boot in through safe mode. With this mode all third party apps will stop functioning and only system apps will be running. The. Go to app manager in setting as open the app info which has blocked you out and press Clear Data Button.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/04 | 372 | 1,458 | <issue_start>username_0: What is the easiest way to teach/enable someone else to read a QR Code?
Please notice, I'm not asking how to read a QR Code. I know there's a lot of apps to do it.
I'm asking what is the easiest way to enable someone else, perhaps someone without much technical knowledge, to scan a QR Code?
For example, this would be great if it actually worked:
<http://www.labnol.org/software/scan-qr-code-with-google/27955/>
It does not require downloading an app, therefore it's easier to show someone how to do it.
Unfortunately, for the 2 android phones I tried that on, it did not work. (there was no image search option as described in the post)
Is the easiest way really to have someone download an app and run it?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, just download an app and run it. You can't visually look at a QR code and decode it with your brain.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: First off you need to use a QR Code Reader. There is no way around that. You can't teach some to read QR's, but you can show them the proper way of using such an app. Most of the readers have built in dummy instructions - such as center the code in the picture, how far away to get a good reading and other useful tidbits. Besides if they can take a picture with the device, they can read a QR Code.
So to finish off, yes the easiest way is to have an app installed, unless your (their) device has one natively installed
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/04 | 406 | 1,521 | <issue_start>username_0: I have the following problem: Somehow, this evening the touchscreen of my Sony Xperia Z broke. I have two thin cracks in the display and everything on the right side of the crack does not react.
I have backup phones but I wanted to get back at least my photos. My device is encrypted with a passphrase, but I cannot type. My idea was, to unlock it from adb, so I can backup my data.
I run SlimKat (SlimRom) with TeamWin Recovery.
When I enter recovery mode, I can see my phone:
```
$ adb devices
List of devices attached
CB5A1PN2WU recovery
```
But no commands work:
```
$ adb shell
- exec '/system/bin/sh' failed: No such file or directory (2) -
```
How can I get my data? Can I remotely control my keyboard? Sadly, everything is saved on the internal flash memory.<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, just download an app and run it. You can't visually look at a QR code and decode it with your brain.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: First off you need to use a QR Code Reader. There is no way around that. You can't teach some to read QR's, but you can show them the proper way of using such an app. Most of the readers have built in dummy instructions - such as center the code in the picture, how far away to get a good reading and other useful tidbits. Besides if they can take a picture with the device, they can read a QR Code.
So to finish off, yes the easiest way is to have an app installed, unless your (their) device has one natively installed
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/04 | 430 | 1,785 | <issue_start>username_0: I made a hard reset on a friend's SAMSUNG I9082 GRAN DUOS and he forgot to tell me about his hidden items.
On the KIES I selected all the possible options to keep, like a full backup (including configs, all pics and stuff).
I wanna know if KIES keeps these hidden items on backup. Because right after I've had restored the backup there were no more hidden items.
Is that possible that the item have missed his "hidden" property and it's still there or It really wasn't included on KIES backup?
Thanks in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: No, Kies doesn't backup hidden items over the gallery, the hidden pictures are now lost.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: *DON'T use the phone until you try this*
You can retrieve the files you deleted. Those files are still in the memory of your phone just not visible, the data is waiting to be written over by new data. *So from now on don't use the phone to take any more pics, to save anymore data, music, or installing any apps until recover has been done.* The extensions of the hidden files will be different than normal. When recovering look for the ext that the files were hidden under.
Then the best way to retrieve your deleted files, is to use a recovery program.
1. Download and install the recovery program on your computer.
2. With the phone plugged into USB, goto "My Computer", note the drive letter assigned to your phone.
3. Start the program and select the drive letter that was assigned to the phone, click *"START"*.
4. Now the scanning process will automatically start to look for the deleted files.
5. The returning results are all recoverable items.
6. Select a location to save your files at.
7. Select the files you want recovered, click *"RECOVER"*
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/05 | 1,028 | 3,737 | <issue_start>username_0: I got to know that when you try to install any Android mobile app which also have Android Wear app, then Google Play automatically push the build to Android Wear device.
I am not sure whether is it right or wrong. Please help how this flow works.
Do we have Gmail app in Android Wear like in Android phone?<issue_comment>username_1: Please note the below is *generic* details. OEMs have their own Android Wear apps, just as an example [Smart Connect from Sony](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sonyericsson.extras.liveware&hl=en)
According to [this article](http://www.cnet.com/uk/how-to/how-to-launch-apps-on-android-wear/):
>
> When you install an Android app that also has an Android Wear app, the app is automatically installed on your watch.
>
>
>
The watch connects and starts downloading apps using the phone’s internet connection. You need to have the [Android Wear App](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.wearable.app&hl=en) installed on the phone to enable this.
---
As for Gmail, yes you can use it on a Smart Watch.
[See here for details](https://support.google.com/mail/answer/6057269?hl=en). You can do the following with Gmail in Android Wear:
**Read email**
Your new email will show up in a Gmail card. Touch the card to expand the message. If the message is long, you might have to tap to expand it multiple times.
If you have multiple messages, you’ll see a bar at the bottom of the card that shows how many messages you have. Touch the bar to see the rest of your messages.
You’ll get Gmail cards if you get Gmail notifications on your phone. [Learn more about how notifications work on Android Wear](https://support.google.com/androidwear/answer/6056843).
**Reply to an email**
When you get a new email, you can read and reply by going to the Gmail card. Swipe ← to the left until you see the “reply” action. You will have to touch to reply. You can’t use a voice command like “reply.”
* If your watch’s screen is dimmed, touch it to wake up your screen first.
* Your Gmail message will show up in a card. Touch the message you want to reply to.
* Swipe ← to the left until you see Reply.
* Touch Reply.
* Say your message. Your message will send automatically.
+ Keep in mind, you can’t edit what you said after this point. If you want to change or cancel your message, you’ll have one second to press Cancel.
**Send an email**
You can speak to your watch to send an email to a contact, or say the email address.
* If your watch’s screen is dimmed, touch it to wake up your screen first.
* Say “Ok Google.” You’ll see a white screen with a red “g.”
* Say the following: “Send email to <NAME> that I’m looking forward to dinner tomorrow.”
**Archive an email**
You can archive an email right from your watch.
* If your watch's screen is dimmed, touch it to wake up your screen
first.
* Your Gmail message will show up in a card. Touch the
message you want to archive.
* Swipe ← to left until you see
Archive.
* Touch Archive.
* Your message will be archived.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Not all apps sync. only specific ones for the android wear.
for email i use this <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.appfour.wearmail> but you can also tell your watch to send an email via voice commands. "messenger for wear" also does SMS text messages. its got its own built in keyboard as well as letting you give voice commands.
simple answer is to make sure the app you install supports wear first.
and to answer the first question you can go into the google wear app and tap the sync button somewhere in the menu to manually sync. though should do automatcally
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/05 | 494 | 1,904 | <issue_start>username_0: My company's looking at the option of using Android tablet for making kiosks. The thing is, the majority of the native settings must be blocked from the user, and very limited apps and utility will be exposed to the customer. From the looks of it, a custom ROM would be the perfect solution, but that requires some arbitrary device be rooted. But then rooting voids warrantee, and this is meant to be a commercial product, so some kind of warrantee is needed. Is there an alternative method? Or what's the legality of commercial rooting?<issue_comment>username_1: For a solution like a kiosk you would use dev hardware where you have full access to the hardware (JTAG for example) and then you would push your own Android build with root access enabled and then push the ROM to the dev board.
That said, for a kiosk type deployment you would NOT want root access available. Therefore when you push your ROM root would not be enabled.
I think your confusing root access and an unlocked bootloader.
By a dev board and learn how to build your own ROMs. :)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Did you have a look at applications such as [KioWare](http://www.kioware.com/android.aspx) and [SureLock Kiosk Lockdown](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gears42.surelock&hl=en)? These seem to be able to put your device to a kiosk environment. Im certain there are more alternatives for this purpose out there.
Another option would be to implement your own home screen application. [This answer](https://stackoverflow.com/a/19313091/1179865) from stackoverflow might help with that.
cheers!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: You could use [SuperLockLite Secure Kiosk](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.superkiosk.ospolice.superlocklite) if you have Samsung device. Have a look at this free app, it does not require rooting of phone.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/06 | 410 | 1,516 | <issue_start>username_0: I uninstalled updates for Google play service and now I can't even use my Google play store, help me please
I'm using a Samsung galaxy grand quattro<issue_comment>username_1: For a solution like a kiosk you would use dev hardware where you have full access to the hardware (JTAG for example) and then you would push your own Android build with root access enabled and then push the ROM to the dev board.
That said, for a kiosk type deployment you would NOT want root access available. Therefore when you push your ROM root would not be enabled.
I think your confusing root access and an unlocked bootloader.
By a dev board and learn how to build your own ROMs. :)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Did you have a look at applications such as [KioWare](http://www.kioware.com/android.aspx) and [SureLock Kiosk Lockdown](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gears42.surelock&hl=en)? These seem to be able to put your device to a kiosk environment. Im certain there are more alternatives for this purpose out there.
Another option would be to implement your own home screen application. [This answer](https://stackoverflow.com/a/19313091/1179865) from stackoverflow might help with that.
cheers!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: You could use [SuperLockLite Secure Kiosk](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.superkiosk.ospolice.superlocklite) if you have Samsung device. Have a look at this free app, it does not require rooting of phone.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/06 | 320 | 1,229 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Sprint LG G3 running Android 4.4.2. I'm using [Android Terminal Emulator](https://github.com/jackpal/Android-Terminal-Emulator/wiki) by Jackpal. It respawns after I close the app. I see the terminal process and the child shell but killing that way seems too manual.
When I closed the only window from the dropdown list at the top, it closes temporarily, then reappears in the "Recent apps" list. There is an un-swipeable notification that says "Terminal session is running". When I tap on either the thumbnail or notification, the "Window 1" comes back.
The only workaround I've found is rebooting.
Any better ideas to really close this app?<issue_comment>username_1: There should be an "X" at the top of your screen. Just tap it.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Simply tap on 3 dots and first close all Windows. When you close the last 1 window, you will be out of simulator.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Close all windows of the terminal emulator and it'll automatically quit the app and close the notifications.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: There are this ways :
1 - CTRL + D ( Volume Down + D )
2 - Tapping The "X" Button
3 - Typing The "exit" Command
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/06 | 1,133 | 4,391 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently bought a used Nexus 5. It came with the L preview on it, and I decided to flash CM 11 instead. My last phone was a Nexus S, and I've flashed various ROMs to that thing in the past.
Using the same machine that just re-flashed that Nexus S a couple weeks ago, I booted the Nexus 5 into fastboot mode, flashed ClockworkMod onto it and re-unlocked the bootloader. However, when I tried using ADB to push the CyanogenMod image over, I got `error: device not found`. Sure enough, `adb devices` fails to detect the device, even though USB debugging is enabled.
I decided this was just an issue with L, so I used Google's `flash-all.sh` script to give me a stock KitKat install. This worked fine, since it's pushing the image via fastboot. However, I still can't get the device to show up to ADB. When I enable USB debugging with the phone plugged into my computer, I don't get a fingerprint confirmation dialog, and no icon notification appears to indicate that it's connected to a computer. I've tried 2 different OSes (Windows 7 and Linux Mint 14) on 3 different computers with 4 different USB cables.
I've tried installing Google's USB drivers, and I have this problem with both fresh installs of the Android SDK and time-tested ones. I've already got `0x18d1` in my adb\_usb.ini. On my Linux system, the output of the `lsusb` command gives identical output whether the phone is connected (with USB debugging enabled) or not. When it's in fastboot, it shows up as `Bus 001 Device 069: ID 18d1:4ee0 Google Inc.`
The phone seems to work perfectly fine in every other respect. I'm pretty happy with vanilla KitKat, but I'd be happier at least knowing I had the option to use something else. I also like having access to `adb shell` now and then.
I've seen plenty of people having issues with ADB before, but never without also having fastboot problems. Any ideas what might be going on? I'd prefer a Linux solution, but I can also work with Windows if needed.
---
*Update:* I was able to get the appropriate files into /sdcard/ by simply downloading them with a web browser, then flashing them with ClockworkMod. I'm now running CM 11, and the ADB problem hasn't gone away. Whatever is causing this, it persists through complete ROM replacements. I'm now curious as ever to know what could be causing this.
---
*Update 2:* Upon further communication with the ebay seller, it turns out this phone had been the subject of water damage prior to being listed for sale. The device booted and appeared to work fine, but in addition to this strange ADB issue, it also couldn't recognize a SIM card. It seems like this was some one-of-a-kind hardware damage, so I doubt there's even a solution.
I ended up returning the device, so there's no way for me to test anything else on it, but if anyone's able to come up with an explanation for why Fastboot can communicate with the device but ADB can't (again, probably due to a hardware fault), I'll accept that as an answer.<issue_comment>username_1: Flash ROM with Fastboot
-----------------------
Before starting ensure bootloader is unlocked. Obtain a ROM of your choice, and note the location on your computer.
1. Reboot your device into fastboot mode via one of the following options.
* `adb reboot bootloader` (requires USB debugging to be turned on). - for working adb; OR
* power off the device then back on with 'vol up' + power button. - for nonworking adb
2. Wipe your device. `fastboot -w`
3. Update your ROM. `fastboot update /path/to/your/RomFile.zip`
4. Your phone will update and automatically reboot into the new ROM
---
**Edit**:
Try the Universal Naked Drivers by 1wayjohnny over at xda forums.
*This has been included because my researching has also found corrupted drivers can be the culprit*
Try <http://code.google.com/p/boot-unlocker-gnex/> to reset tamper flags.
---
The only other information I could find for the error: `device not found` is not helpful in this forum. It does lead towards development and programming though.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: The device has to be in MTP enabled state, regardless if in recovery or booted into the UI. Stock recovery defaults to enable MTP for the ADB bridge in case you didn't have a custom recovery.
In TWRP, and CWM you have to enable that option before adb will be detected by your Linux machine's adb.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/09/06 | 513 | 1,894 | <issue_start>username_0: I have some Android TV "sticks", such as the RK3188, which is basically a tablet minus the screen. You control them using keyboard and a mouse.
The problem is, I have no way to zoom in or out in the browser. There's no way for me to do a "pinch" gesture, and Ctrl +/- etc. don't seem to work in any browser, like Chrome, FireFox, and Dolphin.
I'm using the box as a display screen in a public area and not being able to scale the content to fit the whole TV is a serious limitation.
EDIT: Double tap only offers 2 zoom levels "close" and "far".<issue_comment>username_1: As aureljared points out, apps offer alternative zoom mechanisms. Google officially recommends that apps use either double-click or double-click-and-drag to zoom. (That is, click once, then hold the mouse button down and drag vertically to zoom in and out.)
Android's "manifest" system for apps requires apps to state explicitly if they work with non-touchscreen pointing interfaces like a mouse, joystick, or trackpad. If the manufacturer of your TV stick set it up correctly, it will only show you apps which can be used **fully** with a mouse and keyboard, including zooming.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I just found this info with a quick google <http://www.pcworld.com/article/184656/android_keyboard_shortcuts.html>
I hope it helps.
Android Keyboard Shortcuts: Browsing
• Menu + I: Zoom in
• Menu + O: Zoom out
• Menu + J: Go back a page
• Menu + K: Go forward a page
• Menu + R: Refresh current page
• Menu + F: Find on page
• Menu + B: Open bookmarks
• Menu + S: Open social network sharing menu
• Menu + H: View browsing history
• Menu + S: Open browser settings
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: This way works for me - double klick with left mouse button and hold it down at second klick, then drag up or down to zoom in or out.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/07 | 441 | 1,736 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm a bit surprised I couldn't find this answers myself. I am a major minimalist when it comes to computers (my desktop and laptop both run strip-down Linuces) and I wanted to get rid of some of the bloatware that came with my new Android.
My only problem being that I'm not entirely sure what some of the applications do and whether I need/want them. Is there any way to get details on what an application does?
Edit: For clarification: when I say "details" I mean some description of what the application does.
Edit: My device is a Samsung S4 Mini from AT&T.<issue_comment>username_1: Newer android versions let you disable applications you do not want but cannot uninstall. These pre-installed apps are usually in /system/app/YouTube.apk as an example.
To remove:
- root your device
- uninstall app updates using normal settings -> app manager
- make a backup of your /system/app/appName.apk
adb shell, su,
- mount -o remount,rw /system
- rm /system/app/appName.\*
- sync, reboot
( do press enter where i did a ',' )
- as long as your adb is still working, you can safely restore apps you removed and want back again. But don't forget the file permissions! Do a ls -laF in this folder before, note the permissions, and set them again accordingly after restoring.
Have fun!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: It's a really old question but you may still be interested in this quite new community project : [Universal Android Debloater](https://gitlab.com/W1nst0n/universal-android-debloater)
It's a bash script using ADB to debloat non-rooted smartphones. The packages lists used are as well documented as possible in order to provide a better understanding of what you can delete or not.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/07 | 407 | 1,749 | <issue_start>username_0: The little microphone icon disappeared from my Galaxy 3 keyboard a couple of weeks ago, and the mic icon does not appear as an option when you hold that button on the keyboard. All of the other options are still there but the mic button is completely gone. It doesn't show up on the keyboard in any programs.
S-voice still works. However, when I try to use the voice input option in Google Maps, it crashes as soon as I touch the mic icon. When I open a browser window and try to use the voice input option, when I touch the mic icon, it says Google Voice Search is busy, or need better connection (it does this everywhere so it's not a bad connection problem).
Help!<issue_comment>username_1: Enable Google Voice Typing input in phone settings.
if its not there or disabled - install/ enable google voice search app.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Did you by any chance disable the Google App in your application manager?
To find out go to settings>application manager then swipe over past "running apps", "all apps" options until you see a list of "disabled" (or "turned off" on some devices) apps. Look to see if the Google App is deactivated. If it is, click on it and press 'turn on'.
I disabled my Google app a while back because it was using a lot of data in the background and I never use that app. It took me a few days to figure out why my voice input no longer worked because I don't use it that often. Apparently though, the voice input function is routed through the Google app, so disabling it will make it unavailable.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Restore microphone on keyboard....settings...apps...application manager... your text message appp.. turn on microphone. Done!
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/07 | 420 | 1,514 | <issue_start>username_0: In order to root a new device, I try to follow the [tutorial](http://xda-university.com/as-a-developer/porting-clockworkmod-recovery-to-a-new-device) to port CWM for an unrooted device. When I do `dump_image boot/sdcard/boot.img` I got `dump_image: permission denied`. How can I resolve this? does it means I need to root it first before I can dump the boot image?<issue_comment>username_1: What is your final goal? You can try to root it using towelroot (its an apk that just roots the device). Or something else. Exploit roots are nice, as they are not changing your boot partition and let you clone the original one later on.
I never used the command you mentioned, i always used dd.
adb shell
su
dd if=/dev/block/platform/..../by-name/boot of=/data/local/tmp/oboot.img
chmod 777 /data/local/tmp/oboot.img
exit
exit
adb pull /data/local/tmp/oboot.img
There is another option: Download the official firmware from the net, unzip and untar it and you will have all your partition images ready. This is an example for Samsung devices: <http://samsung-updates.com/>
If you would tell us more about the device you are using, we could help you much better. (device name, hardware tag/number like gt-i9505, android and firmware version)
Good luck!
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Just root your device and type su
and but the dump\_image binary to any of these /cache/create new folder,/data/create new folder,or /system/create new folder hope it helps.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/09/07 | 593 | 2,131 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently updated my Note 8.0 Wifi from 4.1.2 to android 4.4.2, and shortly after that rooted it (But kept the stock 4.4.2, NO custom ROMs or anything...). Of course, as I knew, the battery consumption was probably going to be a bit higher that 4.1.2... and it was.
But one day i left my tablet to charge for a while (around an hour and a half) and hoped that it will charge from 25% to 100% for that time. But when woke the screen what I saw was not normal... the battery had charged only to 60%. I was worried, as I thought that it might be a battery problem, but then I turned off the device (my mom recommended me to do so) and it showed that big green battery indicator at 100%.
I was relieved, as I thought that it might be just a one time problem, and as I rebooted the device it showed 100% again. But my worries didn't end there, as this problem has now occurred at least 5-6 times.
Is it a battery problem, or a battery indication problem, and how should I fix it?<issue_comment>username_1: What is your final goal? You can try to root it using towelroot (its an apk that just roots the device). Or something else. Exploit roots are nice, as they are not changing your boot partition and let you clone the original one later on.
I never used the command you mentioned, i always used dd.
adb shell
su
dd if=/dev/block/platform/..../by-name/boot of=/data/local/tmp/oboot.img
chmod 777 /data/local/tmp/oboot.img
exit
exit
adb pull /data/local/tmp/oboot.img
There is another option: Download the official firmware from the net, unzip and untar it and you will have all your partition images ready. This is an example for Samsung devices: <http://samsung-updates.com/>
If you would tell us more about the device you are using, we could help you much better. (device name, hardware tag/number like gt-i9505, android and firmware version)
Good luck!
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Just root your device and type su
and but the dump\_image binary to any of these /cache/create new folder,/data/create new folder,or /system/create new folder hope it helps.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/09/07 | 1,599 | 6,424 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an Android phone running 4.2.2. I am using a TP-LINK ADSL router and the connection is stable. But every time I open an app that tries to access the internet, my connection keeps connecting and disconnecting frequently. I have another phone running on the same version of android but the connection is stable on it.
What could be the problem? Any useful suggestions are welcome.<issue_comment>username_1: I had a similar problem in that my tablets would connect/disconnect and my laptops would be just fine.
So here was my solution. This may or may not help but worth a try. You don't say what the other phone is. Different OS or whatever.
* Anyway log into the router and look at the wi-fi settings.
* First go to Accessories, Command Prompt, type in `ipconfig` and look at your gateway IP and put that number in your browser address bar and do a CR>. (I type in a different number than my Gateway IP, maybe because I have Mediacom as my IP provider)
* Now you will see a box that comes up and something that calls for a Username & Password.
* Type in ADMIN, PASSWORD. Either all CAPS or all lower case. If that doesn't work, just try the word "username". If that doesn't work then you need to call your IP and have them reset because ADMIN and PASSWORD is the default.
* Anyway if you get in, go to SETUP Wireless Settings.Your channel should be on Auto, and your Security settings should be set to:
WPA-PSK[TKIP] + WPA2-PSK[AES
* Grant you I have an "older" router. There may be newer stuff out there. But since this is the only answer you got so far, it's worth a shot to try and see if it gets better.
The other problem may be a short in the antenna which means cracking open the phone and soldering it, possibly blowing the warranty. Actually, I don't think I'd mess with that myself unless I figured I had nothing to lose and had tried all other options.
I'd also try using a buddie's Mi-FI or another cell as a hot spot and see if that works. If it's a no-go, it probably is the antenna.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: It may be due to other (open) WiFi signals "disturbing your device". With multiple APs being available (in range), your device might try switching to the strongest signal. Of course this would require your device had been connected to them before (Android doesn't automatically connect to "unknown" networks – but it does automatically connect to networks you've used before).
If there are networks in range you've used in the past, you could try to remove them from your "known networks": Go to *Settings › WiFi*, and check which networks are listed. Tap-and-hold each of them will reveal a context menu allowing you to edit or "remove" it. Chose the latter will tell your device to "forget" it has been connected here already, and thus to not automatically connect it. Just leave the one you want to use being "known" should rule out this cause.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Go into settings→ wifi, then uncheck 'smart network switch'.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: It could be an issue with McAfee firewall; I put McAfee W-Fi security off for a few seconds and wow the wi-fi did not drop; now wifi is working as well as the McAfee wi-fi security is also put back as 'on'
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: We have the same problem, but now I discovered the root of the problem. If you are connecting to a WiFi with a weak signal or a WiFi with many devices connected, then it is the cause. Whenever I tried playing games with WiFi with a weak signal and many devices connected, it keeps disconnecting and connecting because our phone might be too weak to accept a WiFi signal.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: There are all manner of issues that can affect WiFi performance.
1. **Noise** Any other energy at frequencies used by your connection. This includes other WiFi devices but also other things like microwave ovens and wireless phones. You can try to set your AP to a channel that has less noise. The nonoverlapping channels you should set a 2.4 GHz WiFi AP are 1, 6, 11, and if your country allows, 14. In general, there is less traffic on 5 GHz channels, so these are a good option if supported by the AP and phone. Your AP may have an option to automatically change channels if it encounters a lot of noise.
2. **Hardware** [Some devices are poorly designed and require physical modification to work acceptably](http://www.wired.com/2010/07/iphone-4/). This depends on your particular phone model. Check that the antenna(s) on the AP are properly attached, and play with their orientation. [LifeHacker suggests to orient two antennas perpendicular to each other.](http://lifehacker.com/the-best-way-to-point-your-wi-fi-router-antennas-perpe-1605924745)
3. **Software/Firmware** Install the latest updates, both for your phone and AP.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: Some versions of Android have a WiFi power saving mode which can come already activated when you buy the phone or by consequence of an activation made by an app (in my case it was the latter).
This mode will disconnect the WiFi connection whenever it's not being used and reconnect it when you start using it again. I found that it does it quite frequently though.
But some connections have security settings that require you to manually log in to the connection every time you want to connect, in these cases I can assure you this little problem becomes a pain in the ass.
So what I found was that in order to disable it you should dial \***#0011#** then you hit the menu button and select **WiFi**. You will get a page with the connection details and there you'll find a label saying **WiFi power saving mode** and a button under it, turn this button off.
This did the trick for me, I hope it helps.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_8: I used to have the same problem and here's what I did
1. Dial \*#0011#
2. Then press the menu button and select WiFi
3. You'll notice an ON button
4. Turn it Off
5. Restart the phone
P.S. When you restart your phone, recheck if it's still OFF, if not repeat until it works.
It has worked for me and now my WiFi is connected all the time.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_9: I just selected Advanced on Android WiFi settings, then I pushed the WPS button on the router and at the same time tapped the WPS push button on Android WiFi settings. So far my phone has not disconnected.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/09/07 | 635 | 2,626 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently updated my galaxy s4, and since then it keeps randomly rebooting. I have tried google for some solutions. I have tried a number of steps, such as taking battery out, clearing the cache, restarting the phone, deleting some recently downloaded apps but none of these steps have worked?
Does anyone else have any knowledge why this might be occurring? Or what I should do? Thank you.
**Update 28/10/2014**
After doing a factory reset the issue seems to have gone away, leading me to believe it must have been corrupted at some point downloading files/apps on to my phone.<issue_comment>username_1: Your S4 firmware is corrupt some way.
You should head to XDA forums and see tutorial for S4 rooting.
Once you have read everything carefully and done all the steps correctly, you should install a custom rom for S4, since this would remove the random booting, if you haven't damaged the battery with water or anything.
NOTE! Rooting is very risky if you don't know what you are doing! Maybe one of your friends has a rooted phone? Ask them or read more about rooting in google.
Regards.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: I would do something else. Chances are high your firmware has an issue. Go to <http://samsung-updates.com/>, select your device and search for your provider. Download the full firmware (about 1.6 gb) unzip(only once). Get yourself Odin(its for windows only). Its on xda everywhere.
A wipe data and wipe cache from recovery mode would be helpful here.
Hold on power button and volume up fore a while to go there, navigate using volume buttons. hit ok using power button.
Put your phone in download mode. (Turn off, hold down power button and volume down for a while, hit power up when the message appeared).
Connect your phone to the pc. Odin should see it now. In Odin you have a bunch of buttons on the right, select the second from the top on the right there. Navigate to your unzipped firmware image. (A .tar.md5 file) select it. Hit start after the file loaded. Do not touch your setup during flashing.
Good luck!
Do not try to flash firmware that isn't designed for your phone. It can destroy it. (Worst case). You can hit getprop in a shell on the device to get all information about your device. The exact device type, firmware version, provider shortcut and so on.
Another approach is to use Samsung Kies. Kies allows you to do firmware updates and used to flash every system partition on the device, not just the changes as the ota does. If you already are at the newest firmware, it might not work cause there's no update.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/07 | 788 | 2,847 | <issue_start>username_0: I am following the below post to root my Xperia E Dual.
>
> [How To Root Xperia E! Latest Update! (Locked Bootloader)\*LINKS
> UPDATED\* NOOB
> GUIDE!](http://forum.xda-developers.com/xperia-j-e/general/how-to-root-xperia-e-update-locked-t2409525)
>
>
>
In step 4 to install Framaroot APK we need to Check the option "Unknown sources" and "Usb dubugging" (in Developer options)
But when I am turning on the Developer option Flashtool is showing an message like below:
```
08/048/2014 01:48:38 - INFO - Device connected with USB debugging off
08/048/2014 01:48:38 - INFO - For 2011 devices line, be sure you are not in MTP mode
```
I have tried changing the Usb connection mode but problem is not resolved. Could you please help?
**Some info:**
Operating System Used to flash: Windows 8.1<issue_comment>username_1: Your S4 firmware is corrupt some way.
You should head to XDA forums and see tutorial for S4 rooting.
Once you have read everything carefully and done all the steps correctly, you should install a custom rom for S4, since this would remove the random booting, if you haven't damaged the battery with water or anything.
NOTE! Rooting is very risky if you don't know what you are doing! Maybe one of your friends has a rooted phone? Ask them or read more about rooting in google.
Regards.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: I would do something else. Chances are high your firmware has an issue. Go to <http://samsung-updates.com/>, select your device and search for your provider. Download the full firmware (about 1.6 gb) unzip(only once). Get yourself Odin(its for windows only). Its on xda everywhere.
A wipe data and wipe cache from recovery mode would be helpful here.
Hold on power button and volume up fore a while to go there, navigate using volume buttons. hit ok using power button.
Put your phone in download mode. (Turn off, hold down power button and volume down for a while, hit power up when the message appeared).
Connect your phone to the pc. Odin should see it now. In Odin you have a bunch of buttons on the right, select the second from the top on the right there. Navigate to your unzipped firmware image. (A .tar.md5 file) select it. Hit start after the file loaded. Do not touch your setup during flashing.
Good luck!
Do not try to flash firmware that isn't designed for your phone. It can destroy it. (Worst case). You can hit getprop in a shell on the device to get all information about your device. The exact device type, firmware version, provider shortcut and so on.
Another approach is to use Samsung Kies. Kies allows you to do firmware updates and used to flash every system partition on the device, not just the changes as the ota does. If you already are at the newest firmware, it might not work cause there's no update.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/08 | 488 | 2,009 | <issue_start>username_0: After installing and uninstalling both Eclipse and Android Studio several times, I have some very large (> 200MB) files on my PC (Windows 7). I currently use the Android Studio version that is installed under `C:\Program Files (x86)\Android\android-studio`.
Is there any way to know which of these files is safe for deletion?
<issue_comment>username_1: These files are all system images for the Android emulator. That is, they contain the filesystems for the emulated Android phone inside the emulator. The ones that are in SDK directories can be removed from the Android SDK Manager and reinstalled any time you want.
The ones in your user directory were generated by running the emulator: they contain the files and data you've created in the emulator. Only you know whether they contain any important data. If your emulated Android system doesn't have any data you want to save, you can delete them. Make sure to remove the corresponding AVD entries that use them from the AVD manager, as the AVD won't be able to boot once you've removed its files: you'll have to start a new AVD from scratch.
BTW, it's not necessary to download a fresh Android SDK each time you install an IDE. Just tell the IDE the path where you installed the Android SDK. Rather than just worrying about the large files, it'll be better to completely remove the copies of the SDK you're not using.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Yes these files are generated when you run the emulator in Android studio....you need not delete the files instead try wiping data from memory using the AVD manager from Tools menu
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3nv76.png)
then choose wipe data after clicking the down arrow next to Emulator name[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aRQVT.png)
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/08 | 575 | 2,341 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an app called [Timberman](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dm.timber).
Under the description it gives an important note:
>
> Game is not compatible with ART devices at the moment. Please switch to Dalvik.
>
>
>
I don't understand what/ how can one confirm whether his device is an ARM device or a Dalvik supported. Also please give a clear difference between Dalvik and an ART.
**Note**: I would like to clarify that I am not seeking any recommendation regarding any particular application. I just want to know: how does the ART effect the game/device? Does it have anything to do with the safety of the phone or just the working of the device differs?
I have installed/used many applications so far, but I never came across this kind of a note.<issue_comment>username_1: Basically there are two run-time environments on Android.
1) Dalvik VM : Dalvik is the managed runtime used by applications and some system services on Android. Dalvik was originally created specifically for the Android project.
2) ART- ART is a new Android runtime being introduced experimentally in the 4.4 release that will eventually replace Dalvik. This is a preview of work in progress in KitKat that can be turned on in Settings > developer options.
Important: Dalvik must remain the default runtime or you risk breaking your Android implementations and third-party applications.
Above content is from Android developer site.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Short answer: unless you've changed it yourself, it's Dalvik.
Dalvik is currently the supported VM for Android. ART is a new VM, which is expected to become the supported one for the future L release. If you are using the L developer preview, you're using ART.
In KitKat, there is a preview (an early beta version) of ART, which you can turn on from the developer options. It's not recommended to do this, because the preview has bugs and is not yet compatible with all apps. The option's there primarily for app developers to test their apps with ART and report bugs.
So unless you're using the L developer preview, or have turned on ART in the developer settings, you're using Dalvik, which is the only recommended option for end users.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/08 | 330 | 1,326 | <issue_start>username_0: My mother has forgotten her screen lock password. is a four digit number. how can I reset phone so she can use it again?
Please assist!<issue_comment>username_1: You can take the help of Google account to reset the password, first of all make sure the wifi/mobile data is turned on, if not then switch the data connection on by pressing and holding the power button until a pop up appears asking you wether to turn the device off, Data network mode use it to turn the mobile data switched on. Once mobile data gets switched on tap over the forgot password put your gmail account user ID and password you will be given the privilege to create new password. Follow the instruction and you are all done.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Follow this process only if mobile data is disabled and phone PIN locked. What I'm giving is Factory Reset method.
*(Warning: Factory reset erases all the data from the phone permanently. Phones resets to its initial state.)*
* Charge the phone fully.
* Switch-off the phone.
* Try these combinations -
>
> volume key up+middle home key+power key
>
>
>
-or-
>
> volume key down+middle home key+power key
>
>
>
* A windows pop-ups for confirming Factory Reset/Wipe Data. Confirm it.
* The reset process completes in a minute or two.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/08 | 1,351 | 5,616 | <issue_start>username_0: To be clear, I don't want to clear my search history in general. I just hate that when I go to search something a few bars beneath my search shows my three most recent searches. I don't mind search suggestions, I just don't want my recent searches showing up every single time.
I've included a screenshot of what I mean.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yjXXw.png)
click image for larger variant
Thank you for your help!<issue_comment>username_1: The best you can do is just clear your mobile browser history. Also you can use apps like Clear master to clear temp files regularly.
Hope it helps!!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Well, what you can do is tap over the search bar type chrome://history/ clear the history and it shouldn't bother you any more.
Update: You can try incognito mode over the browser if you don't want the logs or any history to be created.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Well you have 2 ways here -
* Sign out from Chrome. To sign out just navigate through *Chrome>Settings>Account(on top)>Off*. And you won't get these recent search history.
* Open Chrome (use Desktop version when navigating through the webpages I suggested). In address bar type-in history.google.com and sign in to your preffered Google account and remove all the history from using 'Remove items' from drop-down menu (Gear-like settings icon). Also you can 'Pause' this feature permanently by using 'Settings' in drop-down menu.
Second method is easy to follow if you have a PC.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: **Option 1**:-
You can turn off your Search History to prevent future searches from being saved to your Search History.
But some features, including Google Now, won’t work when your Search History is turned off.
1.Visit your [History page](https://accounts.google.com/Login?continue=https://history.google.com/history&hl=en).
2.In the top right corner of the page, touch the gear > Settings.
3.Touch Pause.
Your Search History will now be turned off for any computers or devices you use with your Google Account.
**Note**:-Doing so will disable all the search being saved irrespective of the device you use because your settings are saved based on the Google email id you use.
The bar which pop's is something called as auto fill/auto suggest.
**Ex**:-Your earlier search for Android is stored in your history and later when you simply type Android in the search box it will check for match in the history and display it .(I.e. Although your search is for Android devices and not Android it will display Android in the suggestion bar based on your history)
**Option 2:-**
1.Un-check the search suggestion from
Settings Menu > Privacy > Search and URL Suggestions (un-check this)
2.Clear your browsing history.(auto search suggestion will be displayed based on the history also so you need to clear the history every time you are done with browsing/when ever you open it)
3.Next time when ever you try a search ,The browser will not display the bar which pop's as the auto suggestion is unchecked and browsing history is clear
**Note**:-If you want to avoid the auto suggestion bar you need to clear your history. If the auto search suggestion bar is seriously annoying for you then you have to trade it with the lost history.
Hope this solves your problem
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: To delete suggestions, type your search string in the chrome browser
Now chrome will suggest websites, select and hold the suggestion, you will get a popup and you can remove the suggestion.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: If you (sman) still or anyone who is struggling with this exact same problem, here is the solution.
The problem happens to those who use Android Chrome. Many of these have tried by turning off (paused) one's google account's search setting. But when searching on google.com there are recent search histories still creeping out!
And one can only find tips to disable(pause) resent search history at google account setting. But we need one more step to fully disable search histories!
1. Go to google.com
2. If you are signed in, make sure you are signed out.
**Signing out must be done, because those recent search results are not related to your google account, those results are saved in the device'**
**If you are signed in and proceed to step 3, you will only be able to turn off your account's search setting which is now managed under 'My activity' option...**
3. At the bottom of google.com, 'setting' -> 'Search settings' -> 'do not save searches' -> Make sure you click 'SAVE' button at the bottom of Search setting page
4. Now you may sign in again!
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_7: Here is an easy solution to disable recent search history in Google Chrome's (Android) search bar (as shown in OP's screenshot):
1. First of all you have to make sure you sign out of your google account, you can do it from google chrome's settings. The first thing that appears is your account, click on it and search for close session in chrome.
Signing out is necessary for the option to disable search history to appear. Remember this is not your account's search history, but rather the app's history.
2. At the bottom of google.com (or rather you can access it fromhttps://www.google.es/preferences) go to 'settings' -> 'Search settings' -> 'do not save searches' -> Make sure you click SAVE button at the bottom of Search setting page.
3. Now you can sign in again.
Those annoying purple recent searches should now be gone and never reappear!
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/08 | 478 | 1,949 | <issue_start>username_0: I downloaded an APK and when I try to install it, the "install" button is completely unresponsive.
I have gone into the settings and enabled "Unknown sources" in the security section.
Is there something else I need to do?
I'm using a Galaxy S5 with Kitkat 4.4.2, unrooted.<issue_comment>username_1: Disable your screen dimming app. :)
Some screen dimming apps work by overlaying the whole screen with a translucent window, and letting touch events pass through to the activity below, but for security reasons, you can't interact with system dialogs (such as the package installer) through another activity.
It sounds counter-intuitive, but it could be the cause. It's more likely than a corrupt APK file or a version incompatibility, either of which would cause an error message.
Upvotes: 6 <issue_comment>username_2: if you received a warning,then Google can and does block apps that can be damaging,and or have malicious code in them. Google can even remove apps after installing as well. Find and read their policy on installing apks from other sources.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Disable Verify Apps in Security. If that didn't help, you could just **copy** the **apk** file to **/data/app/** and reboot the phone (as a temporary solution), also try Wiping the Dalvik Cache.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Try to install it using `adb`. Download the Andorid SDK and then connect your phone to the PC via USB, make sure the USB Debugging option is ON under Developer Option in your phone settings.
Once you are done try to use these commands. `adb devices` to check the connection to your device and then if everything is OK try `adb install .apk`. Make sure you input the correct path to the file or simply copy the apk into `adb` directory.
`adb` usually resids into `adt-bundle-$version/sdk/platform-tools`
You can command prompt `cmd` in Windows or console in \*nix based system.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/08 | 430 | 1,805 | <issue_start>username_0: I would like to get an app, that can record also incoming and outgoing calls and it should record mine and also my partner's voice.<issue_comment>username_1: Disable your screen dimming app. :)
Some screen dimming apps work by overlaying the whole screen with a translucent window, and letting touch events pass through to the activity below, but for security reasons, you can't interact with system dialogs (such as the package installer) through another activity.
It sounds counter-intuitive, but it could be the cause. It's more likely than a corrupt APK file or a version incompatibility, either of which would cause an error message.
Upvotes: 6 <issue_comment>username_2: if you received a warning,then Google can and does block apps that can be damaging,and or have malicious code in them. Google can even remove apps after installing as well. Find and read their policy on installing apks from other sources.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Disable Verify Apps in Security. If that didn't help, you could just **copy** the **apk** file to **/data/app/** and reboot the phone (as a temporary solution), also try Wiping the Dalvik Cache.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Try to install it using `adb`. Download the Andorid SDK and then connect your phone to the PC via USB, make sure the USB Debugging option is ON under Developer Option in your phone settings.
Once you are done try to use these commands. `adb devices` to check the connection to your device and then if everything is OK try `adb install .apk`. Make sure you input the correct path to the file or simply copy the apk into `adb` directory.
`adb` usually resids into `adt-bundle-$version/sdk/platform-tools`
You can command prompt `cmd` in Windows or console in \*nix based system.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/08 | 491 | 1,821 | <issue_start>username_0: I had create a custom ROM and trying now to copy it from my **PC** to my **Lenovo Ideatab A3000-h**, but when connecting the device and try to copy it from my pc to the device, it didn't do the process and gave me the following behavior (forever):
the ROM size is about **2GB**, is there's some way to know what's wrong or a safe way to transfer the ROM rather than this way.
p.s. tried to copy another one with a very near size and got the same result, but copying a small-sized files works fine<issue_comment>username_1: Use ES File Explorer.
How to use:
1. Go into your PC and set up a shared folder. Use this as reference *<https://www.techrepublic.com/blog/windows-and-office/how-do-i-share-folders-in-windows-7-with-the-shared-folder-wizard/>*
2. Either place your file to transfer in the shared folder or make the shared folder where your file is located.
3. Now install ES File Explorer on the device and run the app.
4. Go to the quick access menu (3-dash button in the top left corner).
5. Select *Network>LAN*.
6. Bottom of the screen select *SCAN*, might take a minute to acquire a connection.
7. Select your shared folder.
8. Select your file (long pressing file and select copy at the bottom)
9. Go to the quick access again and select *LOCAL*
10. Pick your destination location from there and tap *PASTE*
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I think the SD or micro SD card on Android is formatted as FAT32 as doesn't allow more than 4GB Copy/Paste from Laptop to it, there is a limitation to it.
Simulated the issue on my laptop and got this error message using TeraCopy app using windows 10, after I mounted the micro sd card directly to the laptop without using the tablet.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/08 | 445 | 1,717 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an Android Tablet with Android 4.1.1, some days ago, the screen started to have random touches around the top of the screen, and sometimes, the top of the screen was unresponsive.
After a factory reset, the problem wasn't solved, but now the top of the screen had stopped being sensitive... I opened the tablet and cleaned the screen.
Now it stopped the random touches (Sometimes they happen again), but the screen still doesn't respond, what do I do?<issue_comment>username_1: Use ES File Explorer.
How to use:
1. Go into your PC and set up a shared folder. Use this as reference *<https://www.techrepublic.com/blog/windows-and-office/how-do-i-share-folders-in-windows-7-with-the-shared-folder-wizard/>*
2. Either place your file to transfer in the shared folder or make the shared folder where your file is located.
3. Now install ES File Explorer on the device and run the app.
4. Go to the quick access menu (3-dash button in the top left corner).
5. Select *Network>LAN*.
6. Bottom of the screen select *SCAN*, might take a minute to acquire a connection.
7. Select your shared folder.
8. Select your file (long pressing file and select copy at the bottom)
9. Go to the quick access again and select *LOCAL*
10. Pick your destination location from there and tap *PASTE*
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I think the SD or micro SD card on Android is formatted as FAT32 as doesn't allow more than 4GB Copy/Paste from Laptop to it, there is a limitation to it.
Simulated the issue on my laptop and got this error message using TeraCopy app using windows 10, after I mounted the micro sd card directly to the laptop without using the tablet.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/08 | 664 | 2,409 | <issue_start>username_0: When I remove the SD Card that was formatted by my Galaxy S3 from it and put it in a MacBook, `fdisk` shows its sole partition as having partition ID `0C`, indicating that it is a Fat32 LBA partition. However, OSX is unable to mount it, and Ubuntu appears to be mounting it as an exFAT partition.
What is the filesystem used on this partition? Could a discrepancy between the partition ID and the filesystem used on the partition be preventing OSX from mounting the partition?<issue_comment>username_1: I formatted a 1GB micro SD card in my SGS 3 (Android 4.3) then checked it in Windows 8.1 on a PC. The Properties dialog says it is FAT. (also the PC can read the content without any problems)
I also formatted it to exFAT on the PC and put it in the phone. It could read and write to it. On the other hand, a NTFS card was reported as unsupported.
More info:
According to this forum post:
[[Q] What filesystem is used for SD cards on the S3?](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2337819#2) :
>
> Anything 32GB and under will be FAT32. 64GB will be extFAT.
>
>
>
For your card the best bet is to try mounting it in Linux (supports the most file systems, note: for exFAT an additional package might need to be installed). If it works, check the used filesystem, like with *cat /proc/mounts*.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: The reason is, at least with Samsung devices and cards larger than 32GB, Samsung or Android formats the card with the exFAT file system, but incorrectly identifies the partition type as "FAT32 (LBA)", or partition type "c" or "0c" in the card's partition table.
If you format the card with exFAT using Windows or the Android partitioning app Aparted, it will correctly declare the partition type as 7 or "07" for "exFAT" (HPFS/NTFS/exFAT) in the microSD partition table.
I have struggled with this same problem, and just confirmed the above information by formating a completely blank, unpartitioned 200GB microSD card on a Samsung Galaxy Note 3 with Android 4.4.2, and in Windows, and using Aparted on Android.
If you are trying to recover data from a card that was formatted with exFAT, but whose partition is incorrectly identified as "FAT32 (LBA)" or "c" or "0c" in the partition table, I believe you will need to force the recovery app (e.g. Testdisk) to identify it as HPFS/NTFS/exFAT or "07".
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/08 | 229 | 938 | <issue_start>username_0: What are the ways to get FireFox (or another browser) to play YouTube videos, rather than open the app? Of those, are there any that work on a relatively low-end phone ?<issue_comment>username_1: You can use any browser that supports streaming. You type in the address bar or Google search for YouTube. Tap on the link for YouTube. Then search for your video(s). There maybe some buffering issues on low-end/legacy devices. You can change the quality of the stream (ie. 240, 480, 720p). Aside from that, make sure all background processes are shut down and you don't have any other running apps.
As to which one works best, that would be an opinion and not correct forum for this. Although I just use stock Android browser.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You need to clear the default setting to open YouTube videos in the app.
Go to settings -> Apps -> YouTube -> Defaults -> Clear defaults
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/09 | 709 | 2,621 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm prepping to upgrade from PA 4.2.1 to CarbonROM 4.4.4 (VZW Galaxy Nexus). I'd prefer using TB to restore my selected apps + data I've had running on 4.2.1, but understand that this is a big jump between Android OSes.
Is there any way to do this? If not both, then what about just the apps?<issue_comment>username_1: Generally this shouldn't be a problem. The only problem with restoring between different Android versions is when you backup and restore the system apps' data from a different version. If you only restore the apps you installed and their data, you'll be OK in most cases.
A few apps might have different versions of the app for different Android versions, so those apps might not work properly because you've restored the data from a different version of the app. This is unusual, though, so you'll probably find that all your apps work just fine.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: By default all the apps are forward compatible(moving apps from a previous version say 4.0 to 4.4.4 in this case) because there are only new API additions to the existing ones .
As mentioned by @Dan In Rare cases you may find the app not compatible with the latest version only because an API is removed possibly due to some issues.
Still if the app is not compatible an update is released by the developer's in order to make sure the App compatibility stays even with the future versions of Android.
**Note**:- Android applications are not necessarily backward compatible(moving back from v4.4.2(Kit-Kat) to 4.1(Jelly bean) or even 2.3(Ginger bread)) due to lack of supporting API's in the present which lack in the previous versions.
So you can go ahead with your restoration provided there's a backup ready for any unwanted issue.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I have experienced so very many problems with 4.4.4 which really SUX!!! It has been such a waste of time and effort after getting 4.4.4
>
>
> >
> >
> > >
> > > I sure do miss being able to just plug in the OTG to my Moto G XT1034 2298 and a flash drive to dump most any file I wanted into the flash drive. It was so very quick and easy. <<<
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Although I found the fastest way to transfer pics and files is with a free app from GooglePlay that is called ""SEND ANYWHERE"" It works a whole lot better than anything else I've tried... But requires a great deal of patience and time.
* One of my biggest REGRETS was the moment I "upgraded" to the Android 4.4.4 OS!!!
Please be kind to yourself... DON'T Subject Yourself to all the NIGHTMARES of 4.4.4
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/09/09 | 653 | 2,732 | <issue_start>username_0: I have seen apps that lower the brightness, but is there a way to get rid of all light colored backgrounds such as (selectively?) inverting the image colors? For instance, I have an app that only provides black ink on a white background; this emits a lot more light at any brightness level than if I could reverse it to show white ink on a black background while in night mode. Ideally even all light colors would turn to solid black and all dark ones to a gray light enough to see. Some apps provide the ability to control these colors, but others do not.
Is there some in-built way to accomplish this starting with any specific Android version, or some other way to accomplish this? Simply reducing "brightness" is insufficient when the goal is to be able to use the tablet for short periods during the night without disturbing one's partner or even affecting one's own sleep cycle.
Update: Also, it seems the backlight by itself emits a lot of light even on a black screen, and the filter approach does not seem to affect this at all.<issue_comment>username_1: The one I use is Screen Filter *<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.haxor&hl=en>* free.
It doesn't invert any colors, but has the lowest brightness setting of any filter app. Use in conjunction with system brightness to achieve any level of brightness needed.
---
In this Android tutorial, <NAME> demonstrates how to read and write to the LCD backlight brightness control.
*<http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/software-engineer/control-androids-lcd-backlight-programmatically/>*
Its some good reading, very nice write up. This is how I'm going to fix my backlight brightness.
---
But here's another filter app that's free *<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.digipom.nightfilter&hl=en>* No programming required.
>
> "Night Filter is an easy to use screen filter application for your Android phone or tablet. Night Filter makes it easy for you to dim your screen, adjust your color tint, and more! Use it to read at night with less eye strain and correct for an excessive screen tint."
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I have found under setting (in Android 4.3 anyway) that I can go to Device: Accessibility:Negative Colors. This will produce the "inverse video" effect so normally white backgrounds are black. In conjunction with normal (or app enhanced) screen dimming this reduces liht significantly over the normal black on white output.
I will update this answer if I find a way to control backlight brightness.
Update: This mechanism does not work when the onscreen keyboard is involved, as those are typically dark and negative video makes them too bright.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/09 | 560 | 2,225 | <issue_start>username_0: I have [Google Cardboard](https://cardboard.withgoogle.com/) which works great with Photosphere. I've created a few of my own, but I'd really like to get some spectacular images (e.g. Times Square, Grand Canyon etc) to install on my phone to demonstrate to people.
I have found Photosphere images online, but they are only viewable online - is there a way to download these images\*\* so they can be viewed as photosphere images on my Android phone ?
\*\* Assuming of course that appropriate license allows me to download a copy.<issue_comment>username_1: The one I use is Screen Filter *<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.haxor&hl=en>* free.
It doesn't invert any colors, but has the lowest brightness setting of any filter app. Use in conjunction with system brightness to achieve any level of brightness needed.
---
In this Android tutorial, <NAME> demonstrates how to read and write to the LCD backlight brightness control.
*<http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/software-engineer/control-androids-lcd-backlight-programmatically/>*
Its some good reading, very nice write up. This is how I'm going to fix my backlight brightness.
---
But here's another filter app that's free *<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.digipom.nightfilter&hl=en>* No programming required.
>
> "Night Filter is an easy to use screen filter application for your Android phone or tablet. Night Filter makes it easy for you to dim your screen, adjust your color tint, and more! Use it to read at night with less eye strain and correct for an excessive screen tint."
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I have found under setting (in Android 4.3 anyway) that I can go to Device: Accessibility:Negative Colors. This will produce the "inverse video" effect so normally white backgrounds are black. In conjunction with normal (or app enhanced) screen dimming this reduces liht significantly over the normal black on white output.
I will update this answer if I find a way to control backlight brightness.
Update: This mechanism does not work when the onscreen keyboard is involved, as those are typically dark and negative video makes them too bright.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/09 | 511 | 1,995 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to connect my Samsung Galaxy Tab S 8.4 SM-T705 with Android 4.4.2 to computer via usb - but there's no effect. Fun thing is that I was able to do it a week ago.
Connection of flash card to usb port also fails - device doesn't appear in Settings->Device list.
What can I do to detect problem?<issue_comment>username_1: The one I use is Screen Filter *<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.haxor&hl=en>* free.
It doesn't invert any colors, but has the lowest brightness setting of any filter app. Use in conjunction with system brightness to achieve any level of brightness needed.
---
In this Android tutorial, <NAME> demonstrates how to read and write to the LCD backlight brightness control.
*<http://www.techrepublic.com/blog/software-engineer/control-androids-lcd-backlight-programmatically/>*
Its some good reading, very nice write up. This is how I'm going to fix my backlight brightness.
---
But here's another filter app that's free *<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.digipom.nightfilter&hl=en>* No programming required.
>
> "Night Filter is an easy to use screen filter application for your Android phone or tablet. Night Filter makes it easy for you to dim your screen, adjust your color tint, and more! Use it to read at night with less eye strain and correct for an excessive screen tint."
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I have found under setting (in Android 4.3 anyway) that I can go to Device: Accessibility:Negative Colors. This will produce the "inverse video" effect so normally white backgrounds are black. In conjunction with normal (or app enhanced) screen dimming this reduces liht significantly over the normal black on white output.
I will update this answer if I find a way to control backlight brightness.
Update: This mechanism does not work when the onscreen keyboard is involved, as those are typically dark and negative video makes them too bright.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/09 | 434 | 1,844 | <issue_start>username_0: I have found many tutorials that explain how to pair an emulated Android Wear watch to a physical phone. However, I would like to do the opposite. Is it possible to create a Bluetooth connection from the pc to the watch and then tell ADB to make the phone emulator use this connection?<issue_comment>username_1: You can't is the short answer. The emulator does not support [bluetooth](/questions/tagged/bluetooth "show questions tagged 'bluetooth'") testing at all.
See the [Google Developers post on Using the Emulaor](http://developer.android.com/tools/devices/emulator.html)
The important line is near the end:
**Emulator Limitations**
The functional limitations of the emulator include:
* No support for placing or receiving actual phone calls. You can
simulate phone calls (placed and received) through the emulator
console, however.
* No support for USB connections
* No support for device-attached headphones
* No support for determining network connected state
* No support for determining battery charge level and AC charging state
* No support for determining SD card insert/eject
* **No support for Bluetooth**
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As far as I know, the Android Wear service on the handset integrates many services to make connecting a watch to the Android handset easy. If you want to connect the watch to your computer, you'll have to replicate this code on the PC. As far as I know, Android Wear is not completely open source, so making that work might be impossible.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: It seems this is possible by putting the Android OS on a generic emulator like VirtualBox and using a computer Bluetooth LE dongle. For more infos, see here:
[Bluetooth Low Energy on Android Emulator](https://stackoverflow.com/a/27712017/1121352)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/10 | 576 | 2,363 | <issue_start>username_0: The camera on the Nexus 5 has stopped working. Coming from a reboot, I can open the camera app, see the camera is working, but as soon as I click to take a picture (or video), the app crashes (tried native and Play Store camera apps), which I then have to force close, then when I reopen the camera I get the error "Can't connect to camera". The only way I've found fix that is to do a reboot, then the whole thing starts again.
This is the same if I use the front or back camera.
Does anyone know if there's a fix for this, or if Google are aware of it at least?<issue_comment>username_1: Go to Settings » Developer options, and deselect "Use NuPlayer". Reboot the phone, and your camera should work again.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I've had this issue and tried the solution above to no avail.
I found that this issue is correlated to the flash. This approach fixed the issue for me:
1. Pull down the accessories drawer from the top of your Nexus and tap the torch to turn on the flashlight. In my case the torch disappeared when doing this.
2. Restart your phone.
3. Go to the torch accessory again and turn on the flashlight and then off again. You might have to go into accessories from the lock screen if the torch still is gone.
4. Now the camera works.
*The issue can appear when turning the flashlight on and let it expire by itself, without turning it off. This is how I got to try this approach.*
### UPDATE
This happened again for me and this time it was Snapchat that crashed taking the camera with it. My solution above didn't work until Snapchat was updated again and that time it was needed.
Conclusion
If you know which app caused the issue you can resolve it by yourself by uninstalling it, do my trick and then re-install it. Although this might be cumbersome most times, it might be the only way out in case the app isn't updating often or at all.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Had this issue for months, very annoying. Rebooted numerous times, kept failing. Its to do with third party apps. I uninstalled Viber which is the only third party app I have that uses my camera. Perfect again now for over a week without a blip. Supposedly google have notified third party app developers of something they must update, some haven't updated their apps. Best of luck.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/10 | 1,737 | 6,965 | <issue_start>username_0: For all I have heard, reducing the screen brightness of your phone can increase your battery life. Just about every expert in the field agrees to this statement. But today I came across **[this article](http://www.howtogeek.com/196067/ask-htg-why-cant-i-install-third-party-apps-on-my-android-phone/)** which kind of raised quite a few questions in my mind. The excerpt from the article in question here is:
>
> All these screen dimming/color cast applications function in
> essentially the same way: by overlaying a graphic on the screen to
> reduce the brightness and/or change the color cast of the screen.
> Think of it like adding a partially opaque layer to an image in
> Photoshop. When you tell the Lux application, for example, that you
> want the screen 50 percent dimmer than the actual hardware in the
> phone can provide via LED adjustments, the application essentially
> cheats by layering a gray mask over the screen that decreases the
> brightness because the screen elements are darker. Other apps like
> Screen Adjuster, Darker, Easy Eye, Twilight, and even the brightness
> adjustment function in popular battery-saving app JuiceDefender all
> work the same way.
>
>
>
1. So if the screen brightness applications (like Lux) only add a partially opaque layer they are essentially not dimming the backlight (*correct me if I am wrong here*) so in turn it would not have any affect in battery life. Right?
2. The article continues saying – *Anything that layers something over the screen in anyway disables the “Install” button as the button is rendered unclickable in order to prevent malicious software from creating a false overlay that leads the user to think an application has a different set of permissions or that the application is an entirely different app altogether*. So does reducing the screen brightness via Settings uses some other technique (probably it actually reduces the backlight)?<issue_comment>username_1: Even if that is true, that would not apply to all screens such as an (AM)OLED screen that doesn't use a backlight.
From Wikipedia article on amoled:
>
> The amount of power the display consumes varies significantly depending on the colour and brightness shown. As an example, one commercial QVGA OLED display consumes 0.3 watts while showing white text on a black background, but more than 0.7 watts showing black text on a white background, while an LCD may consume only a constant 0.35 watts regardless of what is being shown on screen."
>
>
>
Also read the claims on the apps themselves, most don't even claim to effect battery life on other screens
from "Screen Filter" app:
>
> Applies a shade that acts as a dimmer to ensure your eyes don't hurt. Far more powerful than Android's built-in brightness setting. Great for low-light gaming, web browsing, and eBook reading. It even saves battery life for AMOLED displays!
>
>
>
From "Night Mode" app:
>
> * If you have an AMOLED display, you can also save battery!
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I think you've got to differentiate between "software-layers" and "hardware-layers" in the first place. If you put a "display foil" on top of the screen, that will certainly not reduce battery consumption (though it "dims" your display). But if it's a software layer reducing brightness, that's something completely different: How should that be achieved other than reducing the "amount of light *created*"? It's not a "physical layer on top", though it kind-of works like that when it comes to LCDs.***1***
I have no means of proving it "physically", but here are two ways I can imagine***2***:
* reducing light intensity of the "light generators" (LEDs for OLED, or backlight for LCD) by feeding less power to them – which would work for both types of displays, and is the way the actual brightness control works
* altering the color values (e.g. convering "#FFFFFF" to "#DDDDDD", making "white" a "light gray") – primarily working for OLED to "safe power", but ***in theory*** also for displays using differently colored LEDs (or LED arrays) to *compose* the color, ***if such exist3***
As Dan put it1: *Using a filter/overlay like this will make either type of screen look darker, but it'll only reduce power use on OLED screens. On LCD screens, only decreasing the backlight brightness saves power.*
Apart from that, your quotes nowhere state the filters would not affect power consumption in either way.
---
***1*** Following up a [discussion in chat](http://chat.stackexchange.com/transcript/message/17603203#17603203) between Dan and me, on LCDs it in fact is similar; quoting Dan: *Using a software overlay to darken pixels on an LCD screen won't reduce the power consumption [… which works] by putting a transparent grey full-screen window on top of other windows; that's more likely to increase overall power consumption, because you're giving the window compositor more work to do*. Doesn't contradict whith what I wrote, but gives more insight in "applying the right filter to the wrong display type": The same amount of "backlight" is generated, just the crystals (LCD = Liquid Crystal Display) are darker.
***2*** There might be other possibilities which escaped me, so I don't claim the list to be complete. It should give some insight nevertheless.
***3*** There are [differently colored LEDs](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode) at least for Red, Green, and Blue (read: RGB, so such a combination would cover the full color spectrum), making displays like this *potentially possible* (note I didn't say they already exist!); different colors feature different efficiency – so "red-ifying" the screen would safe power (red-orange LEDs feature the most lumen-per-Watt [according to Wikipedia](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light-emitting_diode#Efficiency_and_operational_parameters)).
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: This is an old question, but aside from <NAME>'s comments it doesn't really have a clear and correct answer.
To the questions in the OP: Yes to both, *if you're using a backlit display*.
There are two very different types of screens in phones: **backlit** and **non-backlit**.
LCD displays are backlit. The backlight brightness is the main factor in screen power consumption, and the image shown on screen doesn't matter. The phone's brightness setting controls the backlight.
OLED displays are non-backlit, as the OLEDs themselves emit light and don't need a separate backlight. An OLED's color output determines its power consumption. The phone's brightness setting is a multiplier for each OLED's brightness.
A screen dimming application puts a transparent black image on top of the user interface, which darkens the color of the display output. If there's a backlight, it won't be dimmed and the power consumption won't change. With an OLED display, the change in color reduces power consumption.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/10 | 300 | 1,233 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Samsung S5 & when I plug the phone in to charge every few seconds my screen lights up then turns off. If I have my sound on it play a notification every-time the screen turns on and off.
Any advice on how I can stop this - it's makn me loco :-)!!!
ASM<issue_comment>username_1: Try an alternative cable, some non official (cheaper) leads can break for easier than others and cause the phone not to charge properly, hence why your phone is making a sound and switching the screen on and off
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I was having the same problem - plugged the Samsung cable into a dual charger with higher current capability (my wife left her charger at the cabin) and the phone quit complaining.
An intelligent design decision - have the phone use more power to complain about not enough power during charging...
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I had the same issue, but none of the above solutions worked .
What did the trick is using a pointed wooden toothpick. See if the charging port is in the center and not bent. If you find the port is bent, then straighten it using the wooden toothpick carefully.Furthermore, verify that the charging contacts are clean.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/10 | 371 | 1,521 | <issue_start>username_0: I (accidentally) started downloading a 350 MB file from Google Chrome and I can't find the option to stop it, the downloads app just shows the files that have already finished but not the downloads in progress. The notification on my top bar just opens the downloads app.<issue_comment>username_1: Go to App Drawer → Downloads → Find the downloading item, Delete that.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I just reproduced the steps needed to do this, last two steps may be the interesting ones:
* Open Google Chrome (v39)
* Start a large download (<http://ipv4.download.thinkbroadband.com/1GB.zip>)
* Wait a moment (it took some seconds for a notification to appear)
* Pull down the notification bar and click on the download entry
* You are taken to the download manager
* **Long click** on the corresponding entry
* Choose the **trash bin** from the **top action bar**
In case this does not work for you: Please edit your answer with your exact device model, Chrome and Android version number.
If you are doing a lot of downloads on your Android device consider installing a download manager like share downloader. It also supports pause and resume.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Long press the download app and then drag it to app info which should appear on the top of your home screen. Tap on force stop and its done!
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: In my opinion, the best way is to turn off Wi-Fi and data (3g, 4g) and let the download fail.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/11 | 691 | 2,750 | <issue_start>username_0: i have a rooted device (Lenovo A3000-h) , and i had this issue of having my hosts file filled every now and then with additional lines (that sometimes blocked me from logging into my google play account) , and i used to manually edit the file and just erase these extra lines (keeping the 127.0.0.1 line intact)
so yea everything was fine till this morning , i tried to access my google play and i couldn't so i tried to edit the hosts file one more time (as usual) but i noticed that the file size became 2.5mb although it has always been less than 0.5mb (170kb-250kb). anyways when i tried to edit it , the file wouldnt open giving me the message (not enough memory)
long story short i deleted the file and i noticed i had a hosts.bak file so i copied it and tried to connect but its taking forever and it's not connecting to the internet anymore.
hint : i took a copy of the file from my friend's "Samsung galaxy mega" phone and still it wouldn't connect<issue_comment>username_1: Copy the hosts file to **etc** folder and then install **Adfree** app, open it and click on Revert, and you are good to go.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Just delete your host file . Restart your phone and it will automatically connect to google .worked for me... dont try to edit it.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: You shouldn't need a hosts file to connect to the internet. It's used to map custom (private) IPs to a hostname. Deleting it shouldn't prevent your device from connecting to the internet, but I can think of one instance where it could. I have to explain some background info first to help you understand.
DNS is the protocol used to map a FQDN (fully quantified domain name) like `play.google.com` to an IP address. Android is Linux based, which uses a config file called `resolv.conf` to send DNS lookup requests to. If your cell carrier is populating that file with a FQDN instead of an IP address, the IP address of that FQDN would need to be listed in the hosts file so your phone will know how to look it up.
Look at the contents of `/system/etc/resolv.conf`. You should see one or two lines that begin with the word `nameserver`. If the data that comes after that word looks like a FQDN, then a corresponding entry needs to be in the hosts file too. If it's an IP address, then the cause of your connectivity issues is something else entirely. The first step is making sure your device can reach the internet. I usually do something like `ping 8.8.8.8` to do this as 8.8.8.8 is one of Google's public DNS servers. If you can hit that server, then your issue is DNS related. If you can't, then there's something else unrelated to the hosts file preventing you from reaching the internet.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/11 | 221 | 845 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to remove Google account from AutoSync since I want to use Outlook.com for syncing of my contacts, calendar, email etc. I am able to sync Outlook.com, but unable to remove Google Account from automatically syncing. There is no disable sync button for google Account.
I use a Redmi 1S mobile, on MIUI.
<issue_comment>username_1: Auto Sync should be enabled for checkboxes to appear. Without Auto Sync on, the checkboxes didn't appear.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: When you add google account at that time you will get option for auto sync. You can remove account and add account again.
On android 10 on my mobile, setting / google/ backup and auto sync.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/12 | 1,181 | 4,431 | <issue_start>username_0: When accessing a spreadsheet in Google Drive on a computer with a keyboard, I can enter a new line in a single cell by pressing `alt`+`enter`.
My keyboard on my Android doesn't even have an `alt` key.
How do I enter a new line on my Android device?
For a keyboard on my Android, I'm currently using Swype, but I am assuming, and hoping, there is some kind of general approach that is not specific to a particular keyboard.<issue_comment>username_1: Just select a line and press + (top right on the tool bar), you'll be offered to insert a row above or below or a link.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: The function `CHAR(10)` will return a Line Feed.
Combining with functions like `CONCATENATE()` or `&` will give a new line. Example:
```
=CONCATENATE("First line"; CHAR(10); "Second line")
="First line"&CHAR(10)&"Second line"
```
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: The only way that I found so far is through the clipboard.
Using a source document with a line break, with some effort you could succeed in selecting just the line break, and then copy/paste it.
Even easier is to use an app such as "Unicode Pad" or "Unicode CharMap", both of which will find and then copy/paste any character. You'll need to look for LF, LINE FEED or U+000A.
Note that you won't "see" the character after you select it, it shows as a space for obvious reasons.
This still isn't as convenient as I would like it to be, but at least I found it to work reliably.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Mark the cell in which you want to have new lines.
At the top menu click the "A" next to the redo button.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gqQLU.png)
in the lower screen section a modal pops up. There hit the tab "CELL".
Than activate "Wrap Text".
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CbBbD.png)
Now this cell will do line-breaks on long text.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: Easiest way: add an extra letter at the end of the line. Select that letter. Hit enter. The letter will be replaced with a new line.
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_6: I have succeeded by pressing several times Enter when typing a message, select all, copy it and paste it into a cell in a sheet.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: The following trick worked for me:
Ctrl + Enter
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_8: The highlight a throw-away character and hit enter trick, as well as the type everything into a text editor, then copy/paste it into the Google Sheets cell, both only work on Android devices. I have a Google Spreadsheet that I'm sharing with a client who has an iPhone, and she needs to be able to enter multiple lines within a cell. So I came up with just a little Google Apps Script code to do it on her iPhone (can be entered into the drop-down menu of the Google Spreadsheet, Tools >> Script editor):
```
function onEdit(e) {
e.range.setValue(e.value.replace(/\\\\/g, '\\').replace(/ *\\n */g, '\n').replace(/\/g, '\\'));
}
```
Basically, that creates a function (that is automatically linked to a Google Sheets trigger), and will run every time a cell is edited. It simply replaces all of the "\n" characters in your text with a line-break. Make sure that's a backslash, and not a normal slash. For programmers, the "\n" is a special character that represents a carriage return within a string. The only possible exception where an accidental line-break might happen would be when trying to input a Windows path into a cell such as "C:\Users\John\Documents\news". So double-backslashes is the common workaround for Windows paths among programmers. So one could enter "C:\Users\John\Documents\news" or even just simply "C:\Users\John\Documents\news" (since \n is really the only string we're replacing at this point).
It's also possible to change the replacement characters, in case anyone is more familiar with HTML:
```
function onEdit(e) {
e.range.setValue(e.value.replace(/ *
*/ig, '\n'));
}
```
Since "" is much more deliberate (people don't accidentally type that in unless they want a line-break), it makes for a simpler replace function, since we don't have to do an escape for double-backslashes. But personally, typing in the angled brackets from an Android touchscreen keyboard are a bit inconvenient to do so twice for every line-break...
-Ted
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/12 | 1,174 | 4,333 | <issue_start>username_0: I created a nandroid backup and copied the files to my computer
```
boot.img
cache.ext4.tar
data.ext4.tar
nandroid.md5
recovery.log
system.ext4.log
ta.img
```
I deleted the files on my phone to save space and now have copied them back. I used Online Nandroid Pro and not sure how to actually get it to do a complete restore?<issue_comment>username_1: Just select a line and press + (top right on the tool bar), you'll be offered to insert a row above or below or a link.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: The function `CHAR(10)` will return a Line Feed.
Combining with functions like `CONCATENATE()` or `&` will give a new line. Example:
```
=CONCATENATE("First line"; CHAR(10); "Second line")
="First line"&CHAR(10)&"Second line"
```
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: The only way that I found so far is through the clipboard.
Using a source document with a line break, with some effort you could succeed in selecting just the line break, and then copy/paste it.
Even easier is to use an app such as "Unicode Pad" or "Unicode CharMap", both of which will find and then copy/paste any character. You'll need to look for LF, LINE FEED or U+000A.
Note that you won't "see" the character after you select it, it shows as a space for obvious reasons.
This still isn't as convenient as I would like it to be, but at least I found it to work reliably.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Mark the cell in which you want to have new lines.
At the top menu click the "A" next to the redo button.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gqQLU.png)
in the lower screen section a modal pops up. There hit the tab "CELL".
Than activate "Wrap Text".
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CbBbD.png)
Now this cell will do line-breaks on long text.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: Easiest way: add an extra letter at the end of the line. Select that letter. Hit enter. The letter will be replaced with a new line.
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_6: I have succeeded by pressing several times Enter when typing a message, select all, copy it and paste it into a cell in a sheet.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: The following trick worked for me:
Ctrl + Enter
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_8: The highlight a throw-away character and hit enter trick, as well as the type everything into a text editor, then copy/paste it into the Google Sheets cell, both only work on Android devices. I have a Google Spreadsheet that I'm sharing with a client who has an iPhone, and she needs to be able to enter multiple lines within a cell. So I came up with just a little Google Apps Script code to do it on her iPhone (can be entered into the drop-down menu of the Google Spreadsheet, Tools >> Script editor):
```
function onEdit(e) {
e.range.setValue(e.value.replace(/\\\\/g, '\\').replace(/ *\\n */g, '\n').replace(/\/g, '\\'));
}
```
Basically, that creates a function (that is automatically linked to a Google Sheets trigger), and will run every time a cell is edited. It simply replaces all of the "\n" characters in your text with a line-break. Make sure that's a backslash, and not a normal slash. For programmers, the "\n" is a special character that represents a carriage return within a string. The only possible exception where an accidental line-break might happen would be when trying to input a Windows path into a cell such as "C:\Users\John\Documents\news". So double-backslashes is the common workaround for Windows paths among programmers. So one could enter "C:\Users\John\Documents\news" or even just simply "C:\Users\John\Documents\news" (since \n is really the only string we're replacing at this point).
It's also possible to change the replacement characters, in case anyone is more familiar with HTML:
```
function onEdit(e) {
e.range.setValue(e.value.replace(/ *
*/ig, '\n'));
}
```
Since "" is much more deliberate (people don't accidentally type that in unless they want a line-break), it makes for a simpler replace function, since we don't have to do an escape for double-backslashes. But personally, typing in the angled brackets from an Android touchscreen keyboard are a bit inconvenient to do so twice for every line-break...
-Ted
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/12 | 1,324 | 4,871 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a HTC One X , Android 4.2.2, everything worked as a charm, but suddenly my WIFI/Bluetooth functionality stopped working. I cant see any WIFI network and cant turn WIFI on/off.
It just shows me the message: 'Error' on the Settings > Wifi dashboard. also I cant enable bluetooth.
At Settings > Info > Hardware info it states:
Wifi: 802.11 a/b/g/n
Wifi MAC Adres: Unavailable.
Bluetooth: 4.0
Bluetooth adres: Unavailable.
I tried a wifi diagnostic app (Wifi fixer) it states: WIFI\_STATE\_UNKNOWN
I tried the following:
* give it a static IP-adres, but I can't reach the advanced settings tab. (Settings > Wifi > Advanced)
* Soft and Factory Reset.
Because it cant tell me the MAC adres of the wificard/Bluetooth is unavailable. I am afraid that the radio unit is broken.
Do you have some suggestions for a fix or how to trace the cause of this problem?<issue_comment>username_1: Just select a line and press + (top right on the tool bar), you'll be offered to insert a row above or below or a link.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: The function `CHAR(10)` will return a Line Feed.
Combining with functions like `CONCATENATE()` or `&` will give a new line. Example:
```
=CONCATENATE("First line"; CHAR(10); "Second line")
="First line"&CHAR(10)&"Second line"
```
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: The only way that I found so far is through the clipboard.
Using a source document with a line break, with some effort you could succeed in selecting just the line break, and then copy/paste it.
Even easier is to use an app such as "Unicode Pad" or "Unicode CharMap", both of which will find and then copy/paste any character. You'll need to look for LF, LINE FEED or U+000A.
Note that you won't "see" the character after you select it, it shows as a space for obvious reasons.
This still isn't as convenient as I would like it to be, but at least I found it to work reliably.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Mark the cell in which you want to have new lines.
At the top menu click the "A" next to the redo button.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gqQLU.png)
in the lower screen section a modal pops up. There hit the tab "CELL".
Than activate "Wrap Text".
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CbBbD.png)
Now this cell will do line-breaks on long text.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: Easiest way: add an extra letter at the end of the line. Select that letter. Hit enter. The letter will be replaced with a new line.
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_6: I have succeeded by pressing several times Enter when typing a message, select all, copy it and paste it into a cell in a sheet.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: The following trick worked for me:
Ctrl + Enter
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_8: The highlight a throw-away character and hit enter trick, as well as the type everything into a text editor, then copy/paste it into the Google Sheets cell, both only work on Android devices. I have a Google Spreadsheet that I'm sharing with a client who has an iPhone, and she needs to be able to enter multiple lines within a cell. So I came up with just a little Google Apps Script code to do it on her iPhone (can be entered into the drop-down menu of the Google Spreadsheet, Tools >> Script editor):
```
function onEdit(e) {
e.range.setValue(e.value.replace(/\\\\/g, '\\').replace(/ *\\n */g, '\n').replace(/\/g, '\\'));
}
```
Basically, that creates a function (that is automatically linked to a Google Sheets trigger), and will run every time a cell is edited. It simply replaces all of the "\n" characters in your text with a line-break. Make sure that's a backslash, and not a normal slash. For programmers, the "\n" is a special character that represents a carriage return within a string. The only possible exception where an accidental line-break might happen would be when trying to input a Windows path into a cell such as "C:\Users\John\Documents\news". So double-backslashes is the common workaround for Windows paths among programmers. So one could enter "C:\Users\John\Documents\news" or even just simply "C:\Users\John\Documents\news" (since \n is really the only string we're replacing at this point).
It's also possible to change the replacement characters, in case anyone is more familiar with HTML:
```
function onEdit(e) {
e.range.setValue(e.value.replace(/ *
*/ig, '\n'));
}
```
Since "" is much more deliberate (people don't accidentally type that in unless they want a line-break), it makes for a simpler replace function, since we don't have to do an escape for double-backslashes. But personally, typing in the angled brackets from an Android touchscreen keyboard are a bit inconvenient to do so twice for every line-break...
-Ted
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/13 | 383 | 1,431 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to exit WhatsApp, but it seems that there is no "Log Off" button. Currently, when I want to exit, I turn off my Wi-Fi/cellular data.
How do I log off from WhatsApp?<issue_comment>username_1: after some experiments i think best way is use `Force stop` button in Application manager
go to `Setting > Application manager > WhatsApp` and tap `Force stop` button
As say [Here](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/33803/73129):
>
> Android do not kill the apps totally when you exit from it, this button is for close completely the app and remove it from the stack (apps running), also this button free the memory used by the app
>
>
>
so Thanks to User [pacoespinoza](https://android.stackexchange.com/users/6771/pacoespinoza) this is what i want to do!
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Settings>apps>WhatsApp and press clear data. You might want to first backup your messages in WhatsApp settings. This resets WhatsApp to like when you first downloaded it before logging in. Alternatively, you can go to settings>apps>WhatsApp and turn off notifications for WhatsApp if it gives you the option. If it doesn't, it means your version of android doesn't support turning off notifications. You can also go to a WhatsApp chat, press menu, and mute conversation for an amount of time.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Go to applications and clear data
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/09/13 | 551 | 1,850 | <issue_start>username_0: This is not a duplicate of [How to verify a backup file from ADB backup](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/61689/how-to-verify-a-backup-file-from-adb-backup). The poster there probably didn't know that an unrooted phone requires `-nosystem` ([ref](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/29635/how-do-i-know-when-adb-backup-is-finished?)) and ended with a 0 byte file, where my backup file is almost 8GB.
Given that adb gives almost zero feedback on it's backup progress and success or failure. How can I be confident that [the backup I've just completed](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/82512/46758) is a good one? and that it contains what I think it does? and that it will (probably) work to restore or extract data from?
I have the one android device (Nexus 5), access to Win7 PCs, and ubuntu virtual machines if needed.<issue_comment>username_1: If you're on Linux, [Adebar](https://github.com/username_1Soft/Adebar) contains a tiny little shell script to convert ADB Backups (`.ab`) to tar files, which you then easily can investigate with any archive manager. Only limitation is: it doesn't work on password protected backup files.
The basic command it runs (everything else mainly is a wrapper for command line options and syntax) is:
```
dd if=$1 bs=24 skip=1 | openssl zlib -d >${1%%.ab}.tar && gzip -9 ${1%%.ab}.tar
```
A command I've found here on SE some time in the past (full disclosure: I'm the author of *Adebar*) – [see here](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/77376/16575).
As you can see in the quoted command, it requires `openssl` and `zlib` to be available.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: For unencrypted backups, it is possible to list the content using the command
```
dd if=backup-file2.ab bs=24 skip=1 | pigz -d | tar -tvf - > backup-file.ab.list
```
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/14 | 399 | 1,399 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to set up a server on android. Anyone know how to do that? I do not have root. I do know about I-jetty. So any other ideas. Preferably where I learn how to make a server program. I can program in C, bash, etc. for android. I want to be able basically to run a "basic" server program (like Apache). All the program needs to do is host one page on port 8080.<issue_comment>username_1: The App your looking for is [kWS](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.xeustechnologies.android.kws&hl=en). It will serve any html file you have on your phone to port 8080 (or other unused port), and it doesn't require a root.
If you want to run a custom server (i.e. with sockets), you'd need to develop your own app with [sockets](http://developer.android.com/reference/java/net/Socket.html), although you'll need to know Java.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you know PHP, then you may use [PAW Server for Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.fun2code.android.pawserver). It requires the installation of PHP plugin. [Here](http://paw-android.fun2code.de) is the official site.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Another alternative is [Palapa Web Server](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.alfanla.android.pws). It can serve both static and dynamic content as it has PHP and MySQL embedded.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/14 | 334 | 1,447 | <issue_start>username_0: Recently I changed my sd card from 2GB to 8GB and now I can neither download nor update any apps from the Google Playstore. It shows "Insufficient space on device", even though internal 1.5gb & external 6gb is available. I tried clearing cache for apps, I also deleted some to restore space, but no use.
Can anyone please suggest what to do? This may be a duplicate question, none of the solutions worked for me. My phone is not rooted.<issue_comment>username_1: You probably don't have enough space. Android installs apps to your internal SDcard, not your external. Going from 2 to 8 gigs is irrelevant when installing apps
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Have you tried to move your already installed applications to your external SD card?
You can do it in application settings, after a click on an application in the list.
There must have a button "move to SD card" or something similar. Note that not all the apps can be moved to the external SD card this way.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: First, I recommend using your computer to transfer all files and folders from the old SD card to the new one. This ensures a smooth SD card upgrade.
As for the space issue; the amount of your external memory doesn't resolve issues related to the internal memory. Only internal storage is used for apps installed on the majority of devices (it depends on the version of Android that is installed).
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/14 | 389 | 1,498 | <issue_start>username_0: Is there a way in Android 4.4 to activate (on/off) the GPS in only one tap on Nexus 4?
Now I use a shortcut to arrive at the GPS menu (first tap/first picture)
then click on/off (second tap/second picture)
then accept Google position option (third tap/third picture)
Is there a way to start/stop GPS in a shorter way?<issue_comment>username_1: You probably don't have enough space. Android installs apps to your internal SDcard, not your external. Going from 2 to 8 gigs is irrelevant when installing apps
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Have you tried to move your already installed applications to your external SD card?
You can do it in application settings, after a click on an application in the list.
There must have a button "move to SD card" or something similar. Note that not all the apps can be moved to the external SD card this way.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: First, I recommend using your computer to transfer all files and folders from the old SD card to the new one. This ensures a smooth SD card upgrade.
As for the space issue; the amount of your external memory doesn't resolve issues related to the internal memory. Only internal storage is used for apps installed on the majority of devices (it depends on the version of Android that is installed).
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/14 | 407 | 1,664 | <issue_start>username_0: The Walmart app has a section called Savings Catcher, which allows one to scan a barcode from their receipt or to submit some numbers from it, and for the app to find lower prices. Anyhow, an exact digital duplicate of one's receipt is then shown. This receipt can be accessed at anytime (as far as I can tell). One can also zoom in on the receipt to view it at what looks to be 100% zoom.
**I really would like to be able to save these receipts in jpeg format. When one is looking at the receipt, there is no option for saving or sharing the receipt.**
Now, I am hoping that maybe the receipt gets saved somewhere on the phone or sd card, and am assuming that if it is, it might have an odd file extension (based on previous experience with another picture app. The file would open in photo programs and also if one would change the extension to .jpg.)
I have used ES File Explorer to search for anything named Walmart, but nothing shows up. I have no idea where the files are saved?
**Does anyone have any idea as to where the Walmart app's files are saved?**
My Android version is 4.0.4<issue_comment>username_1: You'll need to be rooted to access it, but anything owned by an app will be in /data/data/[app package name] where [app package name] is the full package name for the app. Usually it will be something like com.walmart.mobile or similar.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Not sure which version this is supported on, but on mine, there is a share button at the top of the receipt, so you can share with email and the jpeg will be attached. Note, this is on the itemized view, not the receipt image view.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/14 | 1,108 | 3,935 | <issue_start>username_0: I use a Nexus 7 and in landscape and when typing and when pressing the space bar I occasionally hit the home menu key by mistake. I have used "Imersive mode" but I like the status bar to show with the clock so that is not solution.
Is there a way to move that soft menu to the left of the keyboard or somewhere else so I don't activate a menu while typing?
PS: The Device is rooted<issue_comment>username_1: The easiest way to avoid accidentally touching the home button is to use a soft keyboard with *longer space bar* . For example *Go keyboard* has a bigger space bar that occupies ~50% of the screen width. So space can be touched long away from the home button.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You can use [Microsoft SwiftKey](https://swiftkey.com/) to have a split keyboard and avoid reaching to the home button like this one
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: 1. You could move the soft buttons using some app like [Pie Control](http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=jun.ace.piecontrol).
2. You could try not to do anything with the device, and train yourself to memorize the position of the space bar.
It's not that small in a 7-inch screen, **IF you have average hand dexterity**
(we must cater to the people with disabilities, so a huge **IF**).
I would recommend playing [this game](http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=klb.android.lovelive_en), rhythm games really help improving tapping precision.
---
Caveat: all app suggestions and links here are to exemplify apps that could help; use your own caution and Google-fu to choose your apps. In no way I am endorsing those apps, or even have them installed. If needed, browse related apps that suit your security requirements.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I would recommend [GMD Auto Hide Soft Keys ★ root](https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/root-app-gmd-autohide-soft-keys.2253792/) as your device is rooted, or try [Ultimate Dynamic Navbar](https://forum.xda-developers.com/t/app-4-0-ultimate-dynamic-navbar.2270198/).
For avoiding permission issues, use App Ops.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_5: I solved this on my OnePlus 6, OS-10, by going to system Settings > Buttons & gestures > Navigation bar & gestures, then select "Navigation Gestures" instead of the default for the fixed navigation bar.
While this completely removed the navigation bar from my phone, it also leaves a bit of unnecessary space below my keyboard (Gboard) now where the navbar used to be.
 
Also, you will have to acclimate to using Navigation Gestures but it doesn't take long & you may, like me, come to prefer them over the navbar anyway.
Nevertheless, my accidental "Home" instead of "spacebar" issue is now solved and my stress level is much lower as a result.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: On a Jusyea J5 tablet running Android 10:
System - - Navigation bar
Enable Navigation bar:
After that a down arrow appears on the bottom bar to hide the system buttons
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: Just go to settings, open Language and input, and select Hide.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_8: My solution was to install a custom navigation bar, like [this one](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=nu.nav.bar&hl=en_US&gl=US) for example (no root required). Then I changed the height setting in it to shrink the bar until it barely appears on the screen.
Now there is a nice dead space between the keyboard and the navigation bar which prevents accidental touches.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/14 | 572 | 2,031 | <issue_start>username_0: I have enabled UDB Debugging for my moto 360, but when I connect it to my computer, I don't get the "Allow Wear Debugging?" dialog.
How can I get this to show up?<issue_comment>username_1: First of all become a developer on *Moto 360* and enable Debugging.
1. Launch **Settings**
2. Select **About**
3. Tap on **Build number** until you *become a developer* :-)
4. Above will enable **Developer options** in Settings on your Moto 360
Enable ADB debugging and Debug over Bluetooth.
5. Under **Developer options** enable **ADB debugging** and **Debug over Bluetooth**
6. Launch **Android Wear** on your phone/tablet
7. Press settings (gear) icon
8. Turn on toggle button **Debugging over Bluetooth**
9. Connect your phone via USB and make sure USB debugging is enabled
10. Run **adb devices** from the command line.
11. If device called “localhost:4444” is listed, you are already paired and can continue at step 13.
12. From command line run **adb forward tcp:4444 localabstract:/adb-hub** then run **adb connect localhost:4444**
13. Launch **Android Studio**. When you launch your app your device should be available in the list for debugging in **Choose device** dialog under **Choose a running device** checkbox.
Hope this helps.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: For some reason it only worked when my phone (Moto G5s) was in "charge only" mode when connected via USB. As soon as I changed it to "file exchange" the connection broke and ADB refused to connect to the smartwatch. After switching the phone back to "charge only" and restarting the adb console I could connect again using "adb connect 127.0.0.1:4444"
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Just an update to the above.
Google has removed the "Debugging over Bluetooth" option from the Wear OS app some time in 2021.
If you need to enable this feature, downgrade to an older version. I had success with <https://www.apkmirror.com/apk/google-inc/android-wear/android-wear-2-36-0-318474873-gms-release/>
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/15 | 787 | 3,389 | <issue_start>username_0: When viewing an application on the Google Play Store (for example, [Sygic GPS Navigation](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sygic.aura&hl=en "Sygic GPS Navigation")), it says underneath the Install button "Offers in-app purchases". Unfortunately, I don't see a way to view the in-app purchases unless I download the app.
Is there any way to view an application's In-App Purchases without downloading / installing the application?<issue_comment>username_1: In-App purchases come in a wide range including unlocking features, making donations, adding bonus content and buying specific items but they all fall under the single permission.
I've also seen them broken down as:
Permanent enhancements to the app,
Expendable updates (i.e. extra lives or tokens),
Subscriptions, and
Auto-renewing subscriptions
If the type of in-app purchases are not listed in the description of the app or in any reviews for the app I would ask the developer via email. Other than that you would have to download it to find out.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: No without the download/use of the application one cannot exactly say what kind of in-App purchases are available in an Application.
One can only guess through the views in an application provided by the play store.
As you can see in one of the screen shots as above you cannot exactly say what all features you need to purchase some applications write about the purchases in the about section such as a demo application which can be purchased through the app.
Also in the recent updates of the play store there's a separate section for the deals such as Top apps /Deals section wherein various app are listed giving details about what kind of discount is available for the particular purchase in an Application (i.e.25 % discount on upgrades etc.).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: There currently is no way to view the list of options for in-app purchases in the Google Play store itself. However, Google Play **does** actually know what in-app purchases are available to any given application because all in-app purchases have to be registered in the Google Play Publishers Console before the In App Billing (IAB) platform will function for those items.
<https://developer.android.com/google/play/billing/billing_admin.html>
Each in-app product has to be registered in each application for which it applies. The process to set up a single product is quite involved. Google Play does have the information available but they don't, at this time, make the list of items available for purchase to users of the Google Play store. That is up to each application. In addition, making that information generally available to users might lead to upset users. For example, a developer decides to add a new highly-requested feature that they initially decide will be $1.99 but then decide later on to raise that price to $2.99 just before releasing it. Those expecting to get it at $1.99 because they saw it early on might be upset at that change. Also, if a developer utilizes the [IAB Products API](https://developers.google.com/android-publisher/api-ref/inappproducts) to synchronize a product list from another tool, it might push products into Google Play that are not actually used in the app itself.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/16 | 382 | 1,547 | <issue_start>username_0: Can we read RFID like QR-bar code without NFC in Android? I am confused because we can read QR-Barcode with simple apps like [Bar Code Scanner](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.zxing.client.android&hl=en). After searching 2-3 hours I found NFC with every detail where RFID is defined.
So I have to consider that it is impossible to read RFID without NFC.<issue_comment>username_1: Can you read RFID without NFC? No you cannot.
Can you read QR-Code without a camera?
You need the right hardware to read codes. For reading QR-code you need an image of the QR-Code therefore a camera. Without a camera you cannot read QR-Code.
To read RFID you need hardware to read the code. The hardware needed is NFC, so without NFC you cannot read RFID.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: **RFID** states for Radio Frequency Identification, and this kind of technology use Radio Waves for identification purposes, now when we know RFID is nothing else than radio wave (electromagnetic field with specific frequency), we know we need transmitter (source of signal) and trans-coder (signal reading device) eg radio in your car and signal broadcasting antenna.
**NFC** - Near Field Communication is a specific kind of RFID technology and reading device can only read the signal from certain distance, all depends on the transmitter signal strenght and on the trans-coder operating field eg like a CB radio equipment, the bigger antenna you have the bigger operating field you got.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/16 | 246 | 789 | <issue_start>username_0: Honestly, I haven't installed and checked all irc clients for Android, nevertheless I wasn't able to google any.
Does it exist?
If yes, mention it, please :)<issue_comment>username_1: Looks like there are some clients now.
[AndroIRC](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.androirc), [Yaaic](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.yaaic), [XdccDownloader](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.playxz.xdccdownloader) and probably even more
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: [CoreIRC](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=co.aureolin.coreirc) or [IRC for Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.countercultured.irc4android) are the ones that currently work reliably.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/17 | 419 | 1,699 | <issue_start>username_0: After synchronising with Google, all contacts that have phone numbers associated with them disappeared.
I tried to enter a new contact just to test this. If I sync again the new entry disappears as well. How can it be recovered?
My phone is a Galaxy Note II<issue_comment>username_1: Did you clear Contacts Storage?
Settings > Applications > General Applications > All (at the top) > Contacts Storage > force stop > clear data
then
Bring up "Contacts" you will then see "You don't have any contacts to display" > press Menu button > Accounts > choose account to sync (your gmail account) > Sync
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Ensure "contacts to display" is set to "all contacts" (under the settings in your contacts app). This ensures you will see contacts from your Google account.
It would he good to validate your Google Contacts data by going to <http://www.google.com/contacts>. Verifying that all the data is there confirms that the issue is with your phone's display, not the data.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_1: Google can restore your contacts from the last thirty days. This is for your desktop computer, and would probably propagate into your Android as well, if Android is not fixed after fixing your desktop contacts, fix those on Android with our other answers, afterwards. **Google search:** lost gmail contacts
* [**Restore contacts - Gmail Help**](https://support.google.com/mail/answer/1069522?hl=en), You can restore your contact list to the state it was in at any point within the past 30 days.
* [**How to Restore Google Contacts:** 6 Steps (with Pictures) - wikiHow](http://www.wikihow.com/Restore-Google-Contacts)
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/17 | 395 | 1,610 | <issue_start>username_0: There is an option on Facebook messenger that lets you view shared photos I can't save any of them to gallery. After I long press on photo it opens but there is no options.<issue_comment>username_1: Did you clear Contacts Storage?
Settings > Applications > General Applications > All (at the top) > Contacts Storage > force stop > clear data
then
Bring up "Contacts" you will then see "You don't have any contacts to display" > press Menu button > Accounts > choose account to sync (your gmail account) > Sync
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Ensure "contacts to display" is set to "all contacts" (under the settings in your contacts app). This ensures you will see contacts from your Google account.
It would he good to validate your Google Contacts data by going to <http://www.google.com/contacts>. Verifying that all the data is there confirms that the issue is with your phone's display, not the data.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_1: Google can restore your contacts from the last thirty days. This is for your desktop computer, and would probably propagate into your Android as well, if Android is not fixed after fixing your desktop contacts, fix those on Android with our other answers, afterwards. **Google search:** lost gmail contacts
* [**Restore contacts - Gmail Help**](https://support.google.com/mail/answer/1069522?hl=en), You can restore your contact list to the state it was in at any point within the past 30 days.
* [**How to Restore Google Contacts:** 6 Steps (with Pictures) - wikiHow](http://www.wikihow.com/Restore-Google-Contacts)
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/17 | 505 | 1,940 | <issue_start>username_0: I'd like to know if it's possible to use NFC on an HTC One X to pay for things in the UK and if so, what app do I use?
Google wallet doesn't seem to be supported here in the UK.<issue_comment>username_1: A more generic answer, not specific to the UK alone:
As [Ross pointed out](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/82737/16575), there is not "one specific app to rule them all". That payment stuff is very much vendor-specific – whith "vendor" meaning the company dealing with the payments. Unless several shops/companies join up for a "standard", it might very well be you'd need a separate app for each shop even.
So this question cannot be answered by a "this-is-it" app, but rather would become a pretty long list (Ross' answer already indicates such), which would be subject to (almost daily) changes whenever a new "vendor" joins or another gives up.
To give you an example: Here in Germany I know of two grocery chains using NFC payments, each using its own app – though both belong to the same "mother corporation". If not even those can figure a "joint approach", I very much doubt there will be a "global approach" any time soon.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: NFC payment support is still pretty hit and miss in the UK. "Cash on Tap" and "Quick Tap" seem to be just pre-pay NFC cards you can load into your phones NFC chip, and not many phones are supported (your HTC One X is not).
If you have a BarclayCard, you can get a "Barclaycard PayTag NFC" sticker for your phone which seems like a better solution since it will work on any phone and it is actually linked to your card. It also claims to work on any contactless till. There might be other banks doing this too.
Worth noting that contactless card support is still hit and miss too - I've found some big stores don't advertise it but it works (eg Tesco) but others claim to have it and it actually doesn't work (eg Co-op).
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/17 | 559 | 2,270 | <issue_start>username_0: Llama is a great tool, but I cannot figure out one (maybe) simple thing. I have a rule that sets the volume low at night (10pm - 6 am) and it works fine. Last night (9pm) I was at the cinema and selected the profile "silent". But at 10pm of course, llama set the profile to "low volume".
Is there a workaround a profile changes only when a certain profile is set (or not set)?
When the profile "silent" is set by another rule I set a llama-variable silence=1, and in the night-rule this variable is checked first. But when I set the profile manually, the variable-workaround doesn't work. I know I can lock profiles, but is there a more elegant way?<issue_comment>username_1: Shortcuts to activate specific Llama Events can be placed on the home screen. Therefore create an Event (or use an existing one):
Name: Go Silent (or whatever you want)
Enabled: yes
Conditions: None
Actions:
1. llama variable: silence=1
2. Profile: Silent (can also use Advanced option to lock the profile for a fixed time e.g. 2 hours, so other events won't change it regardless of whether those other events check the silence variable. Note that that after this time elapses, it'll automatically switch back to the prvious profile)
Now that the event is defined, go to your Android home screen and put a Llama shortcut on it which will open a window listing the various Llama Profiles and Events, and select your Go Silent event. Now pressing the shortcut will activate the Silent profile and set silence=1 for testing by your other events.
Alternatively, rather than creating the Event first, just create the shortcut and select "Custom event actions" and this will drop you to limited a Llama Event creation screen that only allows a name and Actions to be defined (without conditions etc).
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Or you can use the profile lock. As that is what is intended for.
Go to the profile press the lock icon next to the profile you want to set, then just select the length of time.
Also if you go to the same theater, make a profile for that area for silent. Obviously if it uses the same tower as another area, you will have to add condition such as"and" or "or" to prevent conflicts.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/17 | 289 | 1,237 | <issue_start>username_0: In order to see the developer option in settings app you have to do the weird 7 tap on the version entry in the settings app (or something like this).
Isn't there as well a hidden way to enable a reboot option in the menu that appears when you long-press the power button ?
I know there are apps that do that for you, but why the hack wouldn't the stock Android that comes from Google for Nexus phones don't include a freaking restart option, only the Power off option ? I saw some phones with custom Android that have that option.
I know that pressing veeeeeeeeeeery long on the power button actually restarts the phone, but that looks to me like a final resort, in case your phone is stuck, or something, not a clean way to restart your phone.
Thank you!<issue_comment>username_1: No, without custom rom or root on your phone, you can't have this kind of menu.
It will maybe appear in Android L ...
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: There is absolutely no such way of restarting on your stock android . Its only possible by having root access basically. And the long press on the power button is to only force shutdown the entire system and not for the purpose of restarting or something.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/17 | 635 | 2,446 | <issue_start>username_0: I've tried various different Google searches on this, but can't seem to find the answer or even someone reporting the same problem.
I cannot for the life of me find the browsers back button. It's annoying enough that google decided to remove the refresh button from the address bar, but they can't seriously have completely removed the back button from the entire app could they?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mGMRl.png)
Screenshot (click image for larger variant)
I know under usual circumstances I can use the Android OS back button, however if I'm in the browser, then exit out to the home screen or switch to another app, and then reopen the browser, the back button no longer goes back in the browser - it goes back to the last activity I was in e.g. the home screen.
**NOTE:** This behaviour is not consistent. Like right now it is not happening, but a day or 2 ago, it was and I literally had no way to go back to the previous page because each time I pressed the back nav button the browser simply closed. So even if this does not always happen, I'm still puzzled as to where the browser back button has gone..and yet they leave the forward button in the menu...I almost never use the forward button.
p.s. If you too find the removal of the refresh button from the address bar ridiculous too, make sure to star the issue [here](https://code.google.com/p/chromium/issues/detail?id=411335) so that the devs might notice and actually revert it.<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, they've completely removed it from the UI, so you have to use the Android back button.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: As a workaround, you go to Settings -> Home page and set Homepage to `javascipt:window.location.back()` and use the home button as a back button. Here is a picture.
It seems to work well but yes you did lose the home button.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Found this thread and just wanted to update it with a proper workaround. I used this on Chrome for Android ver 7.0.0. On my Note 9 and it works like a charm
Go to settings > home page
Set your homepage as `javascript:history.go(-1)`
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: To use the Home button as Back in Chrome version 108, in Menu / Settings / Homepage, set the homepage to:
```
javascript:window.history.go(-1)
```
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/17 | 193 | 825 | <issue_start>username_0: I found out today my cc was under my friends google wallet instead of mine. I was wondering if I delete it from his wallet; will I be able to add it under mine and be capable of using it. I ask because when I go to remove it, it says "This card will no longer be available to use online or on your device", what exactly does that mean if anyone can tell me.<issue_comment>username_1: It means it won't be able to be used with that Wallet account anymore. You can still add the card to your Wallet account.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can add the credit card to your Google Wallet account while leaving it in your friend's account. (My wife and I have each others card under both of our accounts.)
As for the "no longer available" message; that refers to their account only.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/18 | 924 | 3,804 | <issue_start>username_0: My Phone is SYMPHONY Xplorer W35. Android version JellyBean 4.1.1 Recently I'm facing a problem. Sometimes I download images from my PC to my mobile phone. But unfortunately these images are not in the gallery apps. For this when I need to upload an image from messenger I can't upload them because they are not in the gallery. But after few times the images are automatically shown in the gallery. (My messenger doesn't support uploading file from file manager)<issue_comment>username_1: There might be a file in the folder with the images not visible called ".nomedia". The file, by existing, tells the android system to not include the images in the folder in the media scan. That means that many gallery apps won't see the images. If you have a file manager installed, and know what folder the image is in, you can navigate to the folder and remove the ".nomedia" file. If there is no such file but you manage to find the image it might be another problem.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Once you delete .nomedia files & if you still cant view those pictures, you need to rename the folder e.g. from DCIM to DCIM2. Once you can view them on gallery, you can rename back to original folder name e.g. DCIM2 to DCIM. same goes to other folders. Tq
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: This very much depends on [how you upload the images to the device](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/54908/16575). In order for the gallery app to pick them up, they must be added to the "media library", which is the job of the [media-scanner](/questions/tagged/media-scanner "show questions tagged 'media-scanner'"). So that one needs to run after you've uploaded the image(s).
There are quite a few events triggering the media scanner to do its job – but e.g. uploading a file via FTP, or copying it with a file manager do not belong to that category. Things you can do to trigger it include:
* rebooting the device (media-scanner always runs at `BOOT_COMPLETED`)
* unmount and mount your SD card (it also runs whenever a new medium is attached)
* [trigger a media scan via the the command line](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/51784/16575)
* use a [media scanner trigger app](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists/category/named/mediascanner) to trigger a scan manually
Pick your choice depending on how often you need to do that. If it happens once a year, a reboot probably is the easiest approach. If you need it daily, one of those apps will be the better solution ;)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I had this issue on a completely different phone and version of Android, but both the issue and the explanation can be universal. In my case, it was the existence of the `.nomedia` file in the directory I was trying to see in the Gallery app. This is documented in the Android Developer documentation under [Storage Options](https://developer.android.com/guide/topics/data/data-storage.html#SavingSharedFiles) and, as of this writing appears in a sidebar as follows:
>
> **Hiding your files from the Media Scanner**
>
>
> Include an empty file named .nomedia in your external files directory (note the dot prefix in the filename). This prevents media scanner from reading your media files and providing them to other apps through the MediaStore content provider.
>
>
>
In my case, some application that I installed must have put this file in my Download directory, hiding all of the images there from the Gallery app (and others as well).
**Solution**: All I had to do was delete the `.nomedia` file from the directory and the contents became visible in the Gallery app. You can simply connect your phone to your computer and browse to the directory to accomplish this, or use a file manager on your phone configured to view hidden dot files.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/18 | 226 | 702 | <issue_start>username_0: I am using GT-I8262 (Galaxy Core) android 4.1 does it support OTG?<issue_comment>username_1: As this comes up a lot I would recommend an app to check this, like [this one](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.tauruslabs.usbhostcheck)
The `GT-I8262 (Galaxy Core)` does **not** support OTG. I cannot locate any custom Kernels that support it either.
There is no mention of it in [the specs](http://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_galaxy_core_i8260-5419.php) for the device either.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I used an USB OTG Checker on my mobile (Samsung Galaxy Core i8262) and I get the message "Your Device OS has USB OTG API!"
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/18 | 996 | 4,030 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Motorola Moto G, the 4G version, with the original ROM upgraded to the latest version (4.4.4 official from Motorola).
The first thing I did when I got it was the same I have done when I got my previous phone and every time I (re)installed a ROM on it: disable mobile data, so that I don't get charged by my carrier and instead use only my home wireless network.
Despite the above, I just noticed that I am being charged for several accesses to the network. Oddly enough, if I go to the data usage screen on the mobile, it says no data has been consumed since I bought it, which is what I would expect. Yet, my carrier says that in total, since I got the phone 20 days ago, it used a grand total of 1 (one) Megabyte in several very short communications.
When I called customer support, they told me that data traffic can still be consumed if I have the phone on 4G, even with the mobile data setting turned off. WTF?! I may be wrong but I find this pretty much impossible to believe. As far as I know, this is impossible - mobile data off means mobile data off; nothing will be transferred, not even in the background, am I right? Or is it possible for something to slip through somehow?
Even better, he told me this is the information they have from the manufacturers themselves, and that several people have been complaining about the same. First of all, I doubt the manufacturers would say something like that because I don't believe it's true. Second, I suspect that these are cases where people have both wifi and mobile data on, and when the phone goes to sleep, the wifi gets disconnected and the phone naturally starts using the mobile connection.
To top it off, the tech support guy told me that if I turned mobile data on, set the connection type to 3G and then turn mobile data off again, it would no longer behave like that. I was waiting for him to tell me that afterwards I'd have to press up, up, down, down, left, right, left, right, B, A...
He also mixed the concepts of 2G/3G/4G (cell network type) and "mobile internet", not realizing that the type of cellular network, and accessing the internet over that cellular network are completely different things, so I'm taking what he said with a huge grain of salt.
I've been searching for quite a bit now and the closest reference I find to a similar problem is in a [post here](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/66740/nexus-4-gps-uses-mobile-data-even-when-data-is-turned-off) but I don't have the GPS on (as stupid as it may sound, I didn't even know how to access the GPS on this phone until I saw that post and wanted to make sure it was off).
Besides a problem on the carrier side, does anyone have any idea about what might be causing this? Is it really possible for data to slip through while using 4G and having the mobile data setting off? If so, how, why, what does the cell network type has to do with it, and how do I stop it?<issue_comment>username_1: I think that android is not rooted.
If you can, you should root it and install something like APNDroid .
Than it will be possible to block data usage completely.
At least I know one person with the same problem - data is off, but money goes to zero. (no data plan)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: This has been happening throughout the world and is caused by a technical feature of 4G LTE. Most people don't even notice it because of the small amount of data that's used off their data plan. This is what happens: every time your phone receives or makes a voice call, it automatically switches from 4G to 3G mode due to the fact that LTE is a data-only technology. When the voice call is ended, the phone switches back to 4G mode. You may have mobile data disabled and restricted and yet this switching back and forth from 4G to 3G uses small amounts of data each time. You can prevent this from happening by setting network mode as WCDMA/GSM. So it seems that tech support guy knew exactly what he was talking about after all.
Upvotes: 3 |
2014/09/19 | 1,183 | 4,692 | <issue_start>username_0: I use tunein radio app in the morning. After my use, I close it via exit button, and don't use it for rest of the day.
But hours after the use, I have observed it draining over 10% of my battery. I have tried options like force stop, and even reboot - but issue still persists. Notifications for this app are turned off. No other alarms / reminders set.
I'm on kitkat 4.4.4 / CyanogenMod 11s<issue_comment>username_1: Ending the application by "closing it" may kill the process, but it may have several services running. I'm on my phone, so I cannot add the references, but having multiple apps in memory isn't that bad- I don't think it really effects the life of your battery.
In this instance, if you think (or know) that a particular application is being a pain, I would suggest you first download the application "Watchdog". This gives detailed information about applications, and then let's you kill them when they become too consuming. Watchdog is very good for analysing the running services. If you do find your application is misbehaving, then you have a problem.
If Watchdog does not mark the application as misbehaving, then we may need to dig deeper. If possible, try to run tasker with an automated script to kill the services of this application, which should in turn kill all instances. Whether this is what you want, or is safe, is another question.
One thing to take into consideration is did the application consume so much when your phone was not rooted? Perhaps SU has removed the restrictions the application once had..
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Use Greenify for hibernating your tunein radio,this works fine for most apps.
If it not works properly, need to freeze the app using ROM toolbox and then defrost when needed.
I am using this method mainly for Facebook,truecaller,google play services which consumes more battery usage.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: One more way-
Install AIO Toolbox, its a nice tool, freely available. From there remove the app from startup/boot list. Use your radio app only when you need. Also you have to clean up your memory on regular interval for refreshing RAM.
**Update:**
**Not sure but might be a help.**
Download JRummy Rom Toolbox and from there goto StartUp Manager. From there You can see the threads opened by the radio app. Disable all threads. I am not sure , If free version of the app has feature as I am using paid version, downloaded from BlackMart.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: I found the following delete option in the battery usage status tool:
Note that it is different from REFRESH button. I clicked on it and bam! Here are the new usage stats:
As it can be seen, this button basically killed on other apps except essential android services. (Correct me if I am wrong, but I think it is CM11 specific feature. I would like to know more about exactly what it does and if it is reasonably safe to do it daily. Will google /check CM website / forums and update here)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: I second [username_2 Then's suggestion](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/82984/5132) to use [Greenify](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.oasisfeng.greenify). It's meant for exactly this kind of situation, and it's really easy to use. It does require root, but you already have that since you're on CyanogenMod.
Another option that's already built into CyanogenMod that might help is a feature called App Ops that was [briefly part of stock Android but removed](http://www.cnet.com/news/why-android-wont-be-getting-app-ops-anytime-soon/). This feature is still part of CyanogenMod, and you can access it by going to *Settings* → *Privacy* → *Privacy Guard*. From there you can scroll down to TuneIn (or any other app) and long-press it to control specific permissions. There are a few that will directly affect battery life, such as *Keep awake* and *Wake up*.
One other option that's also built into CyanogenMod: go to *Settings* → *Developer options* ([enable Developer options](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/33497/5132) first if you don't see it) then scroll all the way to the bottom and check *Kill app back button*. Now when you're done using TuneIn you can long-press the back button and it should kill it.
Since each app is different (some run as a service, some wake up the phone repeatedly, some keep it awake), you may need to try more than one of these options, and it might even be a combination of them that ends up doing what you want.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/19 | 1,044 | 4,242 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to do a complete backup of all data on my Samsung Galaxy S4 before I send it in for repairs.
Even though the screen is completely black and does not work (very little touch abilities), I have the Galaxy Smart Dock, which lets me output the screen via HDMI and control the phone with a mouse.
I removed the lock screen, installed Kies, then connected the phone to my computer.
Unfortunately, at one point, my phone switched from MTP to PTP, and now I cannot switch back to MTP (which Kies requires).
Everything online says to just connect the phone to the computer and swipe down to select the connection mode - I cannot do that because the screen is broken.
I also do not see any "three dot" option in Settings / Storage to change the USB Computer Connection.
Is there an option I'm missing? Am I SOL?
Again, I have full control of my device through the media dock, I just do not have that control when the phone is connected (via USB) to my computer.<issue_comment>username_1: If your phone is like mine, this option does not exist in any of the Settings menus. First, connect your phone to your PC via the USB cable. (If it is already attached, remove and reattach). Watch your Notifications bar at the top of your screen and you will see a USB symbol appear. Pull down the Notifications and viola, there is the option to change it back to MTP.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I am sure this is to late for you but hopefully will help someone else out.
Some launchers for example Nova have 'actions' that you can add as shortcuts by long pressing your homescreen. One of these actions is 'expand notifications'. Now you can simply select this icon to pull down the notifications.
This can be useful for using the phone with gloves too when pulling down the notifications can be annoying.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: This solution should work.
First, for Michael, note that the OP bought a Smart Dock. That will be crucial for you. It is not free, but the price you pay will benefit you in other ways:
* purchase a Samsung Smart Dock. I've seen them on Amazon for around $60
* mount your phone in the Smart Dock
Now you have:
* external HDMI connection for the screen
* power for charging your phone
* Several USB ports for PC connection and more
*All* simultaneously.
It's the only connection I've seen that does screen + USB at the same time. Other cables sometimes claim it but I've never had one that worked properly.
Now, once you have the Smart Dock, you're ready to go.
Note: the OP already had a Smart Dock but could not get it to switch to MTP mode. That sounds mighty strange! As soon as you plug the phone into your PC ***with a valid data cable*** you should see it recognize the USB connection.
If you don't, one of two things is wrong in my experience:
1. Have you installed the Samsung Kies 3 app on your PC, and have you updated the driver? (That's an option in "Tools") If not, the PC likely will not recognize the phone, and the phone will not know it is connected to a PC.
2. Are you certain you have a good data-USB cable? A charging-only cable will not work. (Most micro USB cables are fine, although an old one may have a bad pin you would not notice except for this problem.)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Change the cable.
I had a noname cable and did not worked, it only charged and the phone was not available as storage. After replacing cable with a trusted one (BB or Samsung i tried) it worked.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: Check the USB connector on the phone. I had a lot of trouble connecting my GS4 (it would charge but not be recognized by the PC) until I found out there was a LOT of pocket lint down inside the connector area. I cleaned it out gently with a toothpick and after that it hooked right up to the PC. I think the USB cable connector wasn't getting completely inserted.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: i know you have probably fixed this by now but if not try typing \*#0808# into your phone this will bring up a menu where you can select mtp
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_7: try typing the following into your Samsung phone to get access to a hidden USB connection menu
\*#0808#
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/20 | 1,433 | 5,800 | <issue_start>username_0: I am new to android OS.I recently purchased nexus 5 and came to know about several launchers.They are just mind blowing experience.But one of my friends suggested me not to use launchers as they override native os or something like that.
My question is that is it really safe to use launchers? I don't want to make any harm to phone OS or anything.
Does it clear all data and clean up everything when I uninstall it?
Kindly provide me knowledge of launchers and what are the disadvantages of using it.
Thanks<issue_comment>username_1: As with any app: look at the permissions it requests and think about whether the app legitimately needs those permissions. There's nothing *inherently* unsafe about using a custom launcher, but if it requests permissions that shouldn't be needed just to display a home screen, it may have hidden malicious functionality. (Or it may use them for legitimate purposes: for example, some popular launchers request permission to "directly call phone numbers" so that they can provide the ability to put direct-dial icons on your home screen.)
To see the permissions of an app you've already installed, go to Settings -> Apps, find the app, and scroll down to the bottom of its info page. You can also see an app's permissions in the Play store before you install it: scroll down to the bottom of the app's page in the Play store and tap on "Permission details".
Note that a launcher app will (naturally) know which other apps you launch with it. That's generally not a problem, but if the launcher app has Internet permission, it could potentially send information about which apps you use to a third party, which would be a privacy violation.
When you uninstall an app, any data stored with the app itself is removed; this generally includes things like customization settings. But if the app has "modify USB storage" permission, it may have also created files in your phone's shared storage area — the files you see when you plug the phone into your computer with a USB cable. Those aren't deleted when you uninstall an app, but you can delete them yourself, either with a USB connection or a file-manager app on the phone itself.
A custom launcher doesn't "override the native OS" in any unsafe way. It's really just a normal app that happens to respond to the phone's Home button.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: In short, yes, most launchers are not harmful. They are just a skin to your phone and does not clear any of your personal data when you uninstall it. I recommend you look at Nova Launcher, Apex Launcher, Solo Launcher, or any other popular launcher. Good luck with your new Nexus!
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: You can use launcher in your phone,no problem with that. Before installing the check its permissions and you also need to trust that application. There are many good launchers in play store like google now,apex,nova..etc
You want to know that running 2 or more launchers can also heat up your phones ram,sometimes causes hanging .Nexus 5 has a good native launcher.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Yes launchers are safe. But not all. Recently my Kaspersky detected trojan in CLauncher. Personally I am in love with Nova, light and flawless. Even it supported by almost all IConPacks too.BTW, Nexus 5 has already overhauled KK launcher . So , I dont think you need any launcher. But if you are willing to install one, I would suggest either EZLauncher or Nova.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Launchers are not much different from any other app in this concern – so you should deal with them like with other apps. While one argument has already been mentioned multiple times here, let me sum up the basics in short:
* check permissions as recommended already.
* check votes (how many people have rated the app), downloads (how many have installed it), and ratings (how well is the app received). If inexperienced, try avoiding apps with no or only few downloads/votes until you get a feeling for it.
* check *reasonable* comments (i.e. skip the one-worders like "good", "bad", "like" etc, and concentrate on those coming with real details)
* try searching for reviews
* when looking for an app, app listings on "trusted sites" can be helpful. I run such a site myself, where you can find ratings, votes, permissions incl. explanations, and links to reviews etc. listed along each app, so you might wish to [check there](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists.php).
* Avoid "downloading" apps from sites you don't know, better stick to safe markets.
### Helpful links:
* our [security](/questions/tagged/security "show questions tagged 'security'") tag and [its tag-wiki](https://android.stackexchange.com/tags/security/info)
* [Are the apps safe? How can I make my Android more secure?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/7079/16575)
* [What do the permissions that applications require mean?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/38388/16575) (more detailed list [here](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists/perms))
* [Android Markets: How safe are alternative sources?](http://android.izzysoft.de/articles/named/android_markets_safe_to_use)
* [How safe is it to use Aptoide?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/74618/16575)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: yes ! you don't need to be wory m8. according to my experience most of the launchers are pretty safe so far although most of them try to make us to install their related apps but it depends if you want to go with them or not basically launchers are made to give a better look to OS whenever you want to install a launcher you just need to give a look at its details,ratings,reviews and description as well and I recomend you a few best launchers like Hola Laucher,CM Launcher,solo Launcher,aprex launcher .
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/21 | 1,310 | 6,100 | <issue_start>username_0: Android apps are interpreted rather than compiled. Does this make them slower than iOS apps at runtime?<issue_comment>username_1: Because interpreted apps does not means that they are always slow. Sometimes they are more powerful and dynamic as compared to compiled one. As all codes in compiled app are compiled once & output is kept in form of libraries or executables, while in interprated language, once can randomly change the sequence of execution.
So i can say, it depends of developer to developer and there way of programming.
However, Java (Android's programming language) is not interpreted but is JIT compiled. That means that Android programs compile just before you run them, giving reasonably similar performance to iOS' Objective C.
More recently, Android's ART framework pre-compiles the apps, so they are run in the same way as iOS apps. In other words, the next version of Android will presumably be just as fast as iOS.
**Update**
Programming languages generally fall into one of two categories: Compiled or Interpreted. With a compiled language, code you enter is reduced to a set of machine-specific instructions before being saved as an executable file. With interpreted languages, the code is saved in the same format that you entered. **Compiled programs generally run faster than interpreted ones because interpreted programs must be reduced to machine instructions at runtime. However, with an interpreted language you can do things that cannot be done in a compiled language. For example, interpreted programs can modify themselves by adding or changing functions at runtime. It is also usually easier to develop applications in an interpreted environment because you don't have to recompile your application each time you want to test a small section.**
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Java isn't interpreted on Android. Android apps are compiled to *bytecode* by the developer. Bytecode is a compact representation of the program: smaller than the source code written by the programmer, but still not directly executable by the CPU. Some optimizations, such as dead code removal, can be made at this stage.
When you load the app on a device, the Dalvik JVM compiles the bytecode to native executable code, just as it's about to run. This is *just-in-time* compilation. It causes a brief slow-down while the program waits to be compiled, but after that there's no performance overhead, because the code has been compiled to native executable code.
There are some performance advantages to doing it this way instead of compiling up-front on the developer's computer. The app can be compiled for the particular CPU on the phone, taking advantage of its hardware features and using its performance characteristics. For example, it can use hardware floating-point operations if the CPU supports it. In addition, a clever JIT compiler (admittedly, Dalvik is not quite this clever) can monitor the way the program runs, and perform optimizations based on the way the program is used in real use. It might recompile the code with better branch hinting once it has seen which options are turned on and off in your environment, on your phone. An up-front compiler doesn't have this information to use.
Dalvik uses the *Dalvik cache* and other techniques to mitigate the drawbacks of JIT compilation. The new JVM for Android L and later, ART, replaces the JIT entirely with an *ahead-of-time* compiler. This compiles the bytecode to native executable code when the app is installed, to get most of the advantages of JIT without the delay loading the app.
Don't forget that Android apps don't entirely consist of Java. Developers have the *NDK* to write all or part of their apps in C or C++, for performance-critical parts of the app, especially for games. Special-purpose interfaces like OpenGL and Renderscript let programmers take advantage of special hardware like the GPU and SIMD coprocessor for some kinds of computation.
So really, there's no simple answer to your question. Using JIT instead of up-front compilation makes some things faster, some things slower. It's just one part of the overall performance of the OS.
Upvotes: 7 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Since this is a broad question, here's a broad answer.
"Are iOS apps faster than android apps since android apps are interpreted?"
First off iOS apps are not "faster than" android apps.
Secondly, regarding the issue "Android apps are Interpreted." This is something you'd say about computing, like "15 years ago": as you can see from the discussion above, the situation is much more complicated today; entirely new technologies have come to the fore. The concept "compiled is faster than interpreted!" was relevant comparing, you know, perl to machine code 20 years ago; things have moved on so much that issue can not be really clearly applied to "iOS V Android" today.
Thirdly, there are other issues in mobile programming that totally swamp such considerations. Just one example on the ground, mobile programmers knock themselves out over handling large scrolling lists of images, lazy loading, and similar issues. How the two OSs, and the various popular libraries, handles these critical issues often swamps other issues.
Fourthly, just one more overwhelming issue on mobiles is the issues of the graphics chipset and the various complicated relationships of that to software, OpenGL, and so on. For example, Apple is coming out with a system they calL "Metal" in relation to these problems, and Android is coming out with their own "thingy" in this field. These issues around the graphics pipeline are tremendously important to how apps "feel" in your hand.
The very short answer to your question is "compiled V. interpreted" is basically an out-of-date discussion point you know?
(Also, I don't particularly find a Note3 "slower" than an iPhone. Also, some of this is pure artefact - there does exist inexpensive Android phones: there simply aren't low performance iPhones made, so some people may have incorrect ideas from this.)
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/21 | 436 | 1,627 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently installed ParanoidAndroid onto my Note 2, and since then I can't make bluetooth calls from my car. It worked before with the stock ROM, so I know it's the phone that's the problem. It syncs fine and music plays, just the calls that are the problem. If I make a call, it goes through but both sides just hear loud white noise. After a bit of experimentation I found that I am actually hearing myself and the car noises through the speakers, not the other person. I tried disable all the DSP options in case they were causing but it doesn't make a difference. It there something obvous I've missed, or is it actually a bug? If so, how would I go about debugging it?<issue_comment>username_1: This certainly sounds like a bug in the ROM. In the first instance you should report it to the system integrator (the person who ported the ROM for that device).
Debugging and developing device drivers is not for the faint-hearted, and it's well beyond the scope of this site!
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This issue seems to be in cyanogenmod for some time. See [this](https://jira.cyanogenmod.org/browse/CYAN-2884) bugdescription.
A fix for MTK-compatible phones was posted [here](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2414364&page=2)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I had exactly this problem "actually hearing myself and the car noises through the speakers, not the other person" - ie feedback.
This is with "stable" Paranoid Android release 4.45 on Galaxy Note 2 N7100
I upgraded to beta 4.6 beta 5 - problem is gone now. Hurray! Thanks!
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/21 | 195 | 769 | <issue_start>username_0: Isn't an apk files just an archive which is unpacked when you install a package? So, why should it be kept then?<issue_comment>username_1: APK files aren't unpacked when you install the app. The APK file is the only copy of the executable code and static assets belonging to the app. Deleting the APK file would delete the app.
Unpacking the APK files would just take up more storage and take longer to access when you run the app.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: They're in /data/data/applicationPackageName. For example /data/data/com.facebook.android but you have to be root.
Oops I'm sorry I thought you were asking where. I'm in the app and can't find the option to delete my answer. Please dismiss it.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/21 | 293 | 1,142 | <issue_start>username_0: I've got Nexus 4 and not big enough hands to be able to fully control my phone with one hand. I've seen an amazing feature on iPhone 6 called "Reachability mode" (when home button is double tapped, whole UI shifts down to a thumb's reach).
Is there an Android app creating similar reachability mode? I don't have my phone rooted but I can do so.
For all the trolls: please don't write me 'buy an iPhone' not even Samsung, that's not the answer to this question.
Thank you very much!<issue_comment>username_1: APK files aren't unpacked when you install the app. The APK file is the only copy of the executable code and static assets belonging to the app. Deleting the APK file would delete the app.
Unpacking the APK files would just take up more storage and take longer to access when you run the app.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: They're in /data/data/applicationPackageName. For example /data/data/com.facebook.android but you have to be root.
Oops I'm sorry I thought you were asking where. I'm in the app and can't find the option to delete my answer. Please dismiss it.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/21 | 1,168 | 4,455 | <issue_start>username_0: I just upgraded to a Samsung Galaxy s5 running android 4.4.4. On my old phone running gingerbread, I was able to use the USB Mass Storage Device (MSD) feature to browse, delete, and copy photos (to a Windows 7 PC) very quickly since that phone basically acted as a standard USB drive.
On the Galaxy s5, it uses MTP, and trying to perform these same functions is painfully slow. I have over 1,000 photos on the phone, and it takes several minutes for them to be all listed in the DCIM/Camera folder. And even longer for thumbnails to appear. Nothing appears to be cached for quick access.
Considering that MSD is no longer available, and MTP is excruciatingly slow, is there a better way to handle accessing photos on the phone and transferring them to a PC? I would prefer to avoid cloud services/features.<issue_comment>username_1: 1) Use [Air Droid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sand.airdroid) Copy to comp, copy to phone [too long]
2) Switch on dropbox lan sync and transfer the photos by installing dropbox on your new phone too.
Both the methods will be a bit slow, but at least you can start the process and let things be taken care of.
[EDIT]
OP did not want cloud solutions, you can try out [Dukto](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=it.msec.dukto)
No intermediate required :) There you go
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I have the same problems and many more with 4.4.4.
I found the fastest way to transfer pics and files is with a free app from Google Play that is called SEND ANYWHERE. It works a whole lot better than anything else I've tried.
I sure do miss being able to just plug in the OTG to my Moto G XT1034 2298 and a flash drive to dump most any file I wanted into the flash drive. It was so very quick and easy. One of my biggest regrets was the moment I "upgraded" to the Android 4.4.4.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: As my own solution does not work for you on Windows (my windows are just for light and fresh air), I can only give you a pointer to some apps I didn't try myself.
On my server, you will find a list of apps to [Remotely manage media and files](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists/category/named/various_remotemanagement#group_808). I'm no big cloud fan either, so in most of my lists I explicitely marked "cloud stuff" as such (so you can avoid it). None of the apps listed behind the link should use the cloud; they rather use your local WiFi network.
Scrolling to the end of that page, you will also find some "cable based" solutions, utilizing ADB – just in case you have no WiFi available.
As we always say to provide more than a link only (in case the page behind it dies – which I hope will not happen that soon to mine), let me name two of the solutions explicitly: [WebSharing](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=nextapp.websharing) is pretty popular, and [DavDrive](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.fun2code.android.lite.webdrive) should be a decent solution as well.
Feel free to follow up the other links there for more information – it might well be you find something you'd like more, as it provides additional features (e.g. full remote device management ;)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I know it's been a while since I asked this, but I think I finally came up with a decent solution that doens't involve the cloud, doesn't involve waiting eons for images to load via USB, and doesn't involve taking the phone apart to get at the SD card.
I created a file share on a computer, and installed ES File Explorer app on the phone. Using ES File Explorer, I access the file share, then go back to the home screen.
Then, in the android gallery, I select the photos I want to move to the computer, tap the "share" icon, and select the "ES save to" option. Then, go to the root direction, select the computer's name/IP, log in, select the appropriate folder on the computer, then tap "select" to upload the photos.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_5: Total Commander for android with LAN (Windows shares) works the best for me..
You can access the whole disk structure of your pc from the phone, copy move delete, if you just login via the phone.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: None of the above worked for me. Android 4.4.4 on kid's older phone, needed the videos for his school project. Finally got the files over by sending as attachments via gmail.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/22 | 687 | 2,534 | <issue_start>username_0: I don't know if there is already a thread about this particular issue, but if so forgive me. I would like to know how can I see the date when I installed and uninstalled a certain app some time ago (provided that I deleted it from Google Play history, so I can't go that way). I've been doing some research and logcat appears everywhere, but I don't see how can it solve my problem. Thanks in advance for your help.<issue_comment>username_1: You can use this command on Linux:
`adb shell logcat | grep install` for install app see in logcat
`adb shell logcat | grep uninstall` for uninstall app see in logcat
Otherwise In windows you can use Cygwin. [You can download from here](https://www.cygwin.com/)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Logcat won't be much help here, as it only lasts back a limited time (it uses a ring buffer with a fixed size, so older entries get overwritten with new ones). Instead, better focus on the package manager:
```
adb shell "pm list packages -u -3"
```
gives you a list of all apps *you* have installed (the `-3` restricts it to apps that didn't come pre-installed – essentially meaning "3rd party"), including those you've already uninstalled (`-u`). The returned list looks like this:
```
package:com.ceco.gm2.gravitybox
package:com.mohammadag.xposedpreferenceinjector
```
This still doesn't give you the details you wanted, so lets bring in some help from [Firelord's answer here](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/120158/16575):
First, we need to cut of the leading `package:`, so we modify our command to `pm list packages -u -3 | awk -F: '{print $NF}'`:
```
com.ceco.gm2.gravitybox
com.mohammadag.xposedpreferenceinjector
```
Already better. Now Firelord kicks in mentioning the `dumpsys` command for details, which we integrate in what we have so far:
```
for pkg in $(pm list packages -u -3 | awk -F: '{print $NF}'); do
dumpsys package $pkg
done
```
That should give you full details for each app, including their install date (`firstInstallTime`), last update (`lastUpdateTime`) and, hopefully also the uninstall-time – unfortunately, on the device I've tested this right now, uninstalled apps didn't turn up despite of the `-u` parameter, which might be a device-specific issue (as the `pm` documentation clearly describes it such).
To give you the same thing as a one-liner which also should work on Windows:
```
adb shell "for pkg in \$(pm list packages -u -3 | awk -F: '{print \$NF}'); do dumpsys package \$pkg; done"
```
Upvotes: 3 |
2014/09/22 | 586 | 1,920 | <issue_start>username_0: As an example, the post here for rooting the LG G3:
<http://www.reddit.com/r/LGG3/comments/2cdz0y/guide_rooting_roming_xposed/>
Gives links to posts elsewhere for downloading APKs which do something and then allow `su` to work, I think:
Stump: <http://forum.xda-developers.com/lg-g3/orig-development/root-stump-root-lg-g3-sprint-verizon-t2850906/>
PurpleDrake: <http://forum.xda-developers.com/tmobile-lg-g3/development/root-twrp-root-twrp-tmo-lg-g3-t2821005>
Are there any more details about what these or other root techniques actually do? Are any of them open source?<issue_comment>username_1: I've been battling the same issue. Using closed-source from a private company is a huge mistake if you care about security and privacy. Open-source, though arguably not thst much more secure, has one benefit over closed source from a private company: paid programmers are expensive. What's their motive for paying people to do this? Money. Is the root software free/cheap? Don't use it. Open Source, on the other hand, though while not totally free from malicious additions, is being handled mostly by programmers who, collectively, want to *use* the software they are helping create. That being said, here's what I've mustered up.
Most actively developed is by this guy, phhusson, who posted an article (<https://www.xda-developers.com/the-importance-of-open-source-in-root/>) about it in 2015. Then started this (still active) thread (<https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/software-hacking/wip-selinux-capable-superuser-t3216394/page246>)
Here's the repo:
<https://github.com/phhusson/super-bootimg>
Here's another
<https://github.com/android-rooting-tools>
Both of these are still under heavy development.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I've found this: <https://github.com/Benjamin-Dobell/Heimdall> essentially an open source equalvalent of Odin.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/22 | 660 | 2,507 | <issue_start>username_0: I use Samsung Galaxy S4 Mini Android Phone, its MTP mode is not working just after I plugged it in to another PC some time for just USB charging.
I re-installed the driver on my PC and removed the device, re-installed the driver again, and tried some methods like these.
But it was not working with my PC, however, I can view the files on the smart phone with the ADB command on the command prompt.
I am not sure what the situation is.
I cannot connect it via MTP, and its driver failed to install, showing exclamation mark on the Windows Device Manager.
However, I can view the files with ADB command, but not convenient as MTP connnection.
Can I recover this device to be shown without exclamation mark? Everytime when I connect the phone, My Windows 7 tries to install the driver but failed, but ADB works.
I searched many internet sites for the solution, but I tried regedit to remove "UpperFilters", deleted and re-installed driver, tried PTP mode (even it seems not working), and etc.
I am also thinking there might be a problem on the phone itself. (Because I have rooted it once)
Can I get some help from any expert? Thanks very much in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: I've been battling the same issue. Using closed-source from a private company is a huge mistake if you care about security and privacy. Open-source, though arguably not thst much more secure, has one benefit over closed source from a private company: paid programmers are expensive. What's their motive for paying people to do this? Money. Is the root software free/cheap? Don't use it. Open Source, on the other hand, though while not totally free from malicious additions, is being handled mostly by programmers who, collectively, want to *use* the software they are helping create. That being said, here's what I've mustered up.
Most actively developed is by this guy, phhusson, who posted an article (<https://www.xda-developers.com/the-importance-of-open-source-in-root/>) about it in 2015. Then started this (still active) thread (<https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/software-hacking/wip-selinux-capable-superuser-t3216394/page246>)
Here's the repo:
<https://github.com/phhusson/super-bootimg>
Here's another
<https://github.com/android-rooting-tools>
Both of these are still under heavy development.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I've found this: <https://github.com/Benjamin-Dobell/Heimdall> essentially an open source equalvalent of Odin.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/22 | 928 | 3,240 | <issue_start>username_0: I tried to run [Linux on Android](http://linuxonandroid.org) and I had some issues setting up Debian. The VM is running, but I can't connect via VNC. I already searched the FAQ & Google what to do, but I found no answers. My OnePlus One is rooted and its Kernel has Loop Device Support ([`export` in terminal shows `LOOP_MOUNPOINT`](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/33944)). Any suggestions?
**terminal log:**
```
u0_a129@A0001:/ $
u0_a129@A0001:/ $ cd /sdcard/debian
u0_a129@A0001:/sdcard/debian $ su
sh /data/data/com.zpwebsites.linuxonandroid/files/bootscript.sh /sdcard/debian/debian.img
sh /data/data/com.zpwebsites.linuxonandroid/files/bootscript.sh /sdcard/debian/debian.img
android/files/bootscript.sh /sdcard/debian/debian.img <
MD5 file found, use to check .img file? (y/n)
y
Validating image checksum... OK
Checking loop device... MISSING
Creating loop device... OK
mount: mounting /storage on /data/local/mnt/external_sd failed: Invalid argument
No user defined mount points
net.ipv4.ip_forward = 1
Using config file /root/cfg/debian.img.config
Config file loaded
Starting first boot setup.......
Creating User account (named debian)
Adding user 'debian' ...
Adding new group 'debian' (1000) ...
Adding new user 'debian' (1000) with group 'debian' ...
Creating home directory '/home/debian' ...
Copying files from '/etc/skel' ...
```
**here starts the interesting part:**
```
passwd: u:r:init_shell:s0 is not authorized to change the password of debian
Permission denied
Try again? [y/N]
chfn: Permission denied.
adduser: '/usr/bin/chfn debian' returned error code 1. Exiting.
usermod: unknown group admin
chown: cannot access 'external_sd': No such file or directory
Password:
su: Authentication failure
```
**the rest:**
```
If you see the message 'New 'X' Desktop is localhost:0' then you are
ready to VNC into your debian OS..
If connection from a different machine on the same network as the
android device use the address below: eth0: error fetching interface
information: Device not found If using androidVNC, change the 'Color
Format' setting to 24-bit colour, and once you've VNC'd in, change the
'input mode' to touchpad (in settings) Starting OpenBSD Secure Shell
server: sshd.
To shut down the Linux environment, just enter 'exit' at this terminal
- and WAIT for all shutdown routines to finish!
localhost:~# ls
DONOTDELETE.txt Downloads Public cfg
Desktop Music Templates init.sh
Documents Pictures Videos
```<issue_comment>username_1: Please search the xda-developers threads related to this project for debian fixes. Unfortunately, debian handles some security things differently than all the other distros we have, so there are manual changes that have to be made in order to allow debian to "like" your device.
Alternatively, if you try using one of the other distribution images, you should be able to avoid having this problem altogether.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: type this :
```
setenforce 0
```
before chrooting
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Complete Linux Installer is somewhat buggy. Try [Linux Deploy](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/149591/131868). It is much more configurable and stable.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/22 | 562 | 2,388 | <issue_start>username_0: Since this morning there is a new notification in my notification bar. The title is "Queue" and there is a progress bar under it that never stops moving. The only information that I see is this text in two lines under it: "Female for German (Germany)". I guess some Text to Speech software is trying to download something from internet. I can not pause or stop it (regardless of pause icon that appears on the left side of the notification).
Some facts:
I use nightly version of cyanogenmod 11 (20140901) and my phone is Nexus 5.
Could anyone help me to remove this notification?<issue_comment>username_1: I long pressed the annoying notification and two options appeared. The second one says "ignore messages like this", it dismissed the above mentioned notification.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I had the same situation with "female italian". I found the solution under the "text-to-speech" settings. Enter in "install voice data" and select the language pauses; here youbfind the language pack queued, with an X to delete it.
It worked with my device.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Just click the notification app info. It will take you to application manager (download manager). Untick the box that says 'show notification' and it won't show up again.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: go to apps> show system apps>google text to speech engine> force stop it should work; otherwise after force stop> disable it must work; if you want to re-enable it, just touch enable again. this annoying notification works because of the very slow download of the offline voice packages of the tts engine.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: IT'S VERY EASY ! . go to Setting>accessibility > text to speech output > and touch the setting icon \* lied along with google text to speech (which is ticked by default). > install voice data > here you get a small list of language pack > now find the language which is on your notification bar . if you can't see the notification name clearly then gradually open all the language packs. don't worry these are very few. > here you get one or two packs (downloading or failed) now you can manage easily....
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: Open Settings → App management → All apps → Download manager
Open it and click on `Clear data`and notification should disappear.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/09/22 | 3,787 | 13,909 | <issue_start>username_0: The problem:
============
Every time I run ADB backup, I get a message near the bottom of the home screen saying `Backup starting...`, followed by a message saying `Backup finished` *a few seconds later* despite the fact that I'm using 17 GB of device memory, and the resultant backup file is created with a size of 0 bytes. I receive no error messages, no feedback whatsoever indicating *that* anything is wrong, let alone *what* is wrong. It appears to work, but way too quickly, and the backup file is empty.
The process:
============
1. I confirm that the device is recognized by ADB using the `adb devices` command, and receive the following output:
```
List of devices attached
8e1f368a device
```
2. I issue the ADB backup command (details to follow).
3. I get the following message at the command prompt:
```
Now unlock your device and confirm the backup operation.
```
...and the following prompt on the phone:
It makes no difference what I do here (details to follow).
4. I tap the `Back up my data` button (bottom right corner).
5. The phone returns to the home screen and shows me the `Backup starting...` message, then the `Backup finished` message a few seconds later. A 0-byte file is created, named either the default **backup.ab** or whatever I specified with the **-f** switch.
The ADB backup command (used in step 2):
========================================
I've tried multiple combinations of options, ranging from as simple as
```
adb backup -all
```
to things like
```
adb backup -all -apk -s 8e1f368a -f 'C:\Data Files\PDA\Backups\ADB\GalaxyS4_20140919.ab'
```
I also tried adding the `-nosystem` switch after reading [this](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/82513/how-to-verify-an-adb-backup-file-is-complete-and-in-a-good-state) and [this](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/29635/how-do-i-know-when-adb-backup-is-finished?), which indicate that trying to include a system backup on an unrooted device may result in a 0-byte file, and that this switch must be used. It makes no difference, the process still completes in a matter of seconds and I still get a 0-byte file.
The "Full backup" password prompt (step 3):
===========================================
I'm quite sure I have never set a backup password before. I've never had the occasion to set this password or access this setting in any way before. However, I have tried all of the following:
* Leaving both passwords blank
* Leaving the "current backup password" blank and entering a new password in the second box
* Entering the current screen lock PIN and all PINs I've ever used in the past as the "current backup password".
* Entering every password I can think of that I would have ever used for anything on this device
*In all cases the behavior is exactly the same as described in step 5.* I get no errors or any kind of indication that anything is wrong or that my passwords are invalid, and no hint as to whether it's actually expecting a current password or whether that field should be left blank. (The screen shot in [this answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/28315/58269) and several other support forums I've looked at seems to imply that the "current backup password" box wouldn't be displayed if there's no current password, but that's just an inference; nothing makes it clear whether a current password is actually required.)
I suspect that the password it's prompting for might be the "Desktop backup password" set in Developer options:
I have never set that password before. If I try to set one, I get a message saying `Failed to set backup password.`
In searching for information about this error, I've encountered at least one other case in which someone who was having this problem said this was preventing him from using ADB backup, but he wasn't specific about what happens when he tries to use ADB backup.
Most people who received this message having never set the password before say that the solution was to leave the current password blank, but I tried that in the first place and it didn't work. I found [a question by another person who encountered this problem and was sure he hadn't set the password before](http://forums.androidcentral.com/t-galaxy-s-iii/247044-how-recover-desktop-backup-password.html). Unfortunately it doesn't look like he ever got a solution or even an explanation.
Regardless of whether ADB is looking for the "Desktop backup password" or the ADB encryption password is something separate, it boggles my mind why ADB would require you to enter a previous password in order to initiate a new backup. I'm not trying to restore, overwrite, or in any way access previously encrypted data, so even if an encryption password for a backup *had* previously been set, I can't imagine why anyone would think it's a good idea to prevent you from backing up your device if you don't remember what password you used to encrypt backups in the past.
Additional information:
=======================
**Model:** Samsung Galaxy S4 SCH-I545
**Kernel version:** 3.4.0
**OS version:** 4.4.2
**Android SDK Tools version:** 1.16
USB debugging is enabled.
Note that my reason for using ADB backup is to take a full backup of my phone to be on the safe side before rooting it\* so I can use nandroid backup tools such as Titanium backup. So, any suggestion involving rooting my phone would be a Catch-22, not a solution. Needless to say, a factory reset is also not a solution, since it would defeat the entire purpose of performing the backup.
The phone *is* set up to sync with my company's Exchange servers, and there are some policies enforced by the server. I had thought that the device was encrypted when I first set up the sync with company account, but apparently it isn't currently encrypted. In fact, that's what set this chain of events in motion: I'm getting a message telling me that I need to encrypt the device in order to continue to connect to company servers. I want to take a nandroid backup before encrypting, which requires rooting, and I want to use ADB backup before rooting.
---
\* Yes, I'm aware that Towelroot is purported to be safe, but I'd rather not take chances, and I'd like to resolve or at least understand this problem in case related issues come up in the future.<issue_comment>username_1: *sigh* I'm really sorry if this is the case, and you seem to be careful judging by your screenshots and command lines, but I discovered to my chagrin the same symptoms and thought I'd post just in case future discoverers make it here. It turns out that adb is *very* picky about single vs. double dashes in its options. For me, double dashes reproduced this case exactly: same prompt on the phone, same 0 byte file. Single dashes *even though there are long argument names* worked like a charm.
In case it matters, my phone is a Samsung Galazy Note 2 AT&T SGH-i317 running Android 5.1/Cyanogenmod 12.1.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Short Answer
============
Try using an earlier version of adb. 1.0.32 did not work for me, but 1.0.31 did.
Long Answer
===========
I just encountered this issue on a Nexus 5 running CyanogenMod 11 (based on Android 4.4) using the current version of the Platform Tools and ADB (Android Debug Bridge version 1.0.32 Revision eac51f2bb6a8-android).
Using `adb logcat` to watch the device logs, I noticed that after invoking `adb backup -apk -obb -shared -all -nosystem` there were some suspicious log entries:
```
V/BackupManagerService( 811): Requesting full backup: apks=false obb=false shared=false all=false pkgs=[Ljava.lang.String;@4181ffc8
W/BackupManagerService( 811): Unknown package '-apk' '-obb' '-shared' '-all' '-nosystem', skipping
```
Where it appears that the device is interpreting the command-line options as non-option arguments, and producing an error because they are not installed package names. This made me suspect the adb protocol or the command/service invocation options had changed on the device relative to the host, so I tried an older version of adb and voilà, it worked.
I did a bit of digging and came across a change to [Use escape\_arg in "adb backup"](https://android-review.googlesource.com/#/c/147361/), which now causes all arguments to be single-quoted when invoking `/system/bin/bu backup`. This explains the behavior and the single-quoted arguments in the log message. However, it does not seem to match the time at which you encountered the error. It would also suggest the issue to be much more widespread than it appears to be. So I am hesitant to call this the cause, but it may a good starting point for further investigation.
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_3: The other answers about the command arguments being quoted is accurate. I've found that if you escape the spaces between the arguments, it works.
Like this: `adb backup -apk\ -shared\ -all\ -system`
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: Building on kevenoid's answer, it may depend on what version of adb is running on the phone.
You can find out what version the phone is running natively by doing the following:
First find out what version you are running on your desktop
```
adb version
```
Then open the shell on your phone
```
adb shell
```
Once the shell is open then you can run
```
adb version
```
Then exit the shell by running
```
exit
```
I found that my phone was running version 1.0.31 and not 1.0.32 (it is a samsung note 2)
I tried using quotes or escape characters like Hunter showed but none of those worked from the windows command line. However downgrading did fix the incompatibility issue between the two versions.
I was able to find the older version following the instructions here: <https://stackoverflow.com/a/23022718/1741542>
The download link I used was:
<http://dl-ssl.google.com/android/repository/platform-tools_r20-windows.zip>
Other platforms:
* <http://dl-ssl.google.com/android/repository/platform-tools_r20-macosx.zip>
<http://dl-ssl.google.com/android/repository/platform-tools_r20-linux.zip>
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_5: OK, this is how I fixed mine.
I tried username_3's solution:
```
adb backup -apk\ -shared\ -all\ -system
```
But it just returned immediately with no error, no backup screen on the phone.
Through trial and error this worked for me:
```
adb backup -all\
```
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: None of the workarounds worked for me here, and I don't want to downgrade my SDK tools. Here's what I came up with: skip `adb backup` on the computer and go straight to device via `adb shell`.
```
$adb version
Android Debug Bridge version 1.0.35
Revision fc2a139a55f5-android
$ adb shell
shell@jflte:/ $ bu 1 backup -apk app.package.name > /sdcard/backup.ab
shell@jflte:/ $ exit
$adb pull /sdcard/backup.ab
[100%] /sdcard/backup.ab
```
This calls `/system/bin/bu` and dumps the backup file onto STDOUT (File descriptor #1). Parameters are the same `adb backup` -> `bu 1 backup` . The output is redirected to a file on the device and then can be pulled like any file.
The only drawback is that you can't do a full backup if your device is more than half full. This can be worked around if you have an external SdCard slot. `bu` can write there even on Android 4.4.2, because it is a system app. `/mnt/extSdCard/backup.ab` worked the same for me as `/sdcard`.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_7: You need to execute the adb backup command on adb version 1.0.31.
For windows i did:
* find your SDK folder (c:/users/.../AppData/Local/Android/sdk)
* rename tools & platform-tools to tools.bak & platform-tools.bak
* download <http://dl-ssl.google.com/android/repository/tools_r22.3-windows.zip>
* download <http://dl-ssl.google.com/android/repository/platform-tools_r19.0.1-windows.zip>
* extract both zip's to sdk folder
* run adb backup command as normal
Log:
$ adb backup -apk -obb -shared -all -system -f bckp.ab
adb server is out of date. killing...
* daemon started successfully \*
Now unlock your device and confirm the backup operation.
...then set everything back to normal.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_8: I think I have a solution for those using 1.0.32:
**enter a password when prompted on the android screen**
Despite the fact that it says it will use the default password if you enter none, I believe it doesn't and adb 1.0.32 perhaps does not allow the creation of unencrypted backups.
Entering a password worked for me, then I ended up using
["Android Backup Extractor"](https://sourceforge.net/projects/adbextractor/) (Warning Sourceforge) and ["Java Cryptography Extension (JCE) Unlimited Strength Jurisdiction Policy"](http://www.oracle.com/technetwork/java/javase/downloads/jce-7-download-432124.html) to extract it into a tar file.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_9: I ran into the inverse problem: 1.0.31 with a newer phone (Android 7) fails too.
1.0.31 uses : as separator when passing arguments to the phone.
As `adb logcat -s BackupManagerService` shows, the newer adb on the phone can't handle the old style either:
`02-19 01:59:44.330 1100 9830 W BackupManagerService: Unknown package com.gameloft.android.ANMP.GloftPOHM:-apk, skipping`
Fortunately, the newer adb accepts spaces as separator too, so enclosing the arguments within double quotes works, e.g.:
`adb.exe backup "com.gameloft.android.ANMP.GloftPOHM -apk" -f game-backup.ab`
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_10: For me it was that the package name had been changed, so `adb backup` wasn't finding it and was creating an empty backup file, *without reporting any error*. `adb logcat` showed the error. Once I updated the package name, `adb backup` succeeded.
This was using ADB version 1.0.41, with a desktop backup password enabled.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/23 | 843 | 3,211 | <issue_start>username_0: I have spent hours researching this and unable to come up with a solution, if anyone knows of one please let me know. I am looking for a way to mount a remote folder on a server (using either WebDAV, FTP, etc) on my Android device as a local folder so that all apps can have access to it and save and read from it as if it were just any other folder on the phone or SD card. Note that I am not looking for a way to "sync" a folder on my phone with a folder on my server, everything in this folder should be stored on the server only and read as if it were local.<issue_comment>username_1: On a rooted phone you have several options -- via 3rd party app, directly through a unix `mount` command, see [How to mount SMB/CIFS Network Shares on android device?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/19107/how-to-mount-smb-cifs-network-shares-on-android-device)
If your phone is not rooted, I do not know how to do that, maybe there can be some app on a play store that is able to mount a network share (NFS, SMB, FTP, ...) via normal privileges (it is definetly possible under unix).
If you want to share just music and/or video you can use DLNA (your phone does not have to be rooted for this to work) -- install a DLNA server on your PC/router and than something like XBMC for Android or BubbleUPnp on your android device.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Try [SSHFSAndroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.chaos9k.sshfsandroid). Seems to work fine.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I highly Do Not recommend doing this. It might cause the data on the remote server to be corrupted unless it is mounted as read-only. Android recognizing it as a remote file is much safer as it knows how to treat the file the right way when it is unexpectedly disconnected.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I was looking for the same today.So maybe it is because some time has passed but Googling on "how to mount a webdav drive on Android" has a couple of pages with apps who do exactly that.
For example:
* [DAVx⁵](https://play.google.com/stor/apps/details?id=at.bitfire.davdroid) or
* [FolderSyncPro](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=dk.tacit.android.foldersync.full&hl=nl&gl=US)
I bought a license on FolderSyncPro and configured it to sync my data from my webdav drive to my Android folder. It works great. One thing to note here is that when you have a token for your webdav drive instead of a username or password then just ignore the username and fill in the token instead of the password.
You can also schedule it to sync on a schedule. Each sync will then show you either in green ok or in red when it encountered something and will then explain in the logs where the problem is.
It also allows for one-way only syncing so that you have your webdav as master and your android only as a read only instance for e.g. some data you only edit on laptops.
FYI the FAQ for FoldersyncPro: <https://foldersync.io/docs/faq/webdav/>
While investigating I also found <https://www.resilio.com/individuals/>, which takes a different direction and syncs directly from your system to your mobile devices. This may be an alternative route.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/23 | 887 | 3,393 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a bit of a mixed problem in my Xperia arc s. I started by trying to install apps, and I got that message saying "There was a problem parsing the package". I checked "unknown sources" in settings and made sure that I matched the minimum sdk required or higher and still the same message.
After that I tried to install a different rom, but whenever I flash a kernel I get stuck in CWM and the rom's zip file is not found! Even when I open the sd card from windows explorer it seems that the zip file has disappeared.
I used flashtool to get back to the original rom, but again whenever I try to install an app I face that "Parsing Package" problem again!
So what's wrong here? How can I get my phone working again so I can install apps?<issue_comment>username_1: On a rooted phone you have several options -- via 3rd party app, directly through a unix `mount` command, see [How to mount SMB/CIFS Network Shares on android device?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/19107/how-to-mount-smb-cifs-network-shares-on-android-device)
If your phone is not rooted, I do not know how to do that, maybe there can be some app on a play store that is able to mount a network share (NFS, SMB, FTP, ...) via normal privileges (it is definetly possible under unix).
If you want to share just music and/or video you can use DLNA (your phone does not have to be rooted for this to work) -- install a DLNA server on your PC/router and than something like XBMC for Android or BubbleUPnp on your android device.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Try [SSHFSAndroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.chaos9k.sshfsandroid). Seems to work fine.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I highly Do Not recommend doing this. It might cause the data on the remote server to be corrupted unless it is mounted as read-only. Android recognizing it as a remote file is much safer as it knows how to treat the file the right way when it is unexpectedly disconnected.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I was looking for the same today.So maybe it is because some time has passed but Googling on "how to mount a webdav drive on Android" has a couple of pages with apps who do exactly that.
For example:
* [DAVx⁵](https://play.google.com/stor/apps/details?id=at.bitfire.davdroid) or
* [FolderSyncPro](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=dk.tacit.android.foldersync.full&hl=nl&gl=US)
I bought a license on FolderSyncPro and configured it to sync my data from my webdav drive to my Android folder. It works great. One thing to note here is that when you have a token for your webdav drive instead of a username or password then just ignore the username and fill in the token instead of the password.
You can also schedule it to sync on a schedule. Each sync will then show you either in green ok or in red when it encountered something and will then explain in the logs where the problem is.
It also allows for one-way only syncing so that you have your webdav as master and your android only as a read only instance for e.g. some data you only edit on laptops.
FYI the FAQ for FoldersyncPro: <https://foldersync.io/docs/faq/webdav/>
While investigating I also found <https://www.resilio.com/individuals/>, which takes a different direction and syncs directly from your system to your mobile devices. This may be an alternative route.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/23 | 668 | 2,694 | <issue_start>username_0: I have decided to install CloudMagic to be able to receive Exchange e-mail on my Android phone without having to accept restricted company security settings. There are many e-mail clients that support Exchange without enforcing company security settings.
I was wondering if there are also Android applications that can just make the Exchange calendar available?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes. There are many apps out there which can sync your exchange calendar with your android device. But most of the easier and more elegant software are paid-for apps. The only good enough free app I could find is this <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=it.mp.calendar.sync>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I'm using [Team Calendar Sync](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.teamsite.android.calendar.generated) to sync an Exchange server locally to my Android devices.
For Outlook.com, you can try [TouchDown for Outlook](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nitrodesk.outlook.nitroid).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: If you use the built-in email app, you can get you calendar on your phone. When you are setting it up, just untick sync email, contacts and your calendar will appear invite default calendar app on your device. You can purchase calendar apps that will only sync your calendar, but the are about €9/$9/£9 so your best option is use the default app.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I just managed to get this to work on an Acer Z200:
1. Click the *Settings* wheel
2. Under *ACCOUNTS*, select *Corporate*
3. Add your Exchange account there and set its sync options
I now see my Exchange email and calendars in the standard Calendar app, and I get notifications for my Exchange calendar appointments.
Before doing that, I installed Microsoft's Outlook app and added my Exchange account as an account of type *Outlook*. This allows me to view my email and calendars in the Outlook app, but I didn't find a way to make it send notifications for calendar items. (If it is possible, please correct this answer.)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: My working solution is :
1. Setup your Exchange account and enable all syncing (email, calendar, contacts)
2. Go into settings -> apps -> all apps
3. Clear cache and data from the following apps :
-Exchange-services
-Gmail
4. Restart calendar app and the exchange account is now visible in the list of accounts.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: Install the App "nine" <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ninefolders.hd3&hl=de>
There you can choose what to sync before the first sync and you can just enable the calendar sync.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/23 | 302 | 986 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a AsusFonetab with Android 4.3 installed and 4GB free space but when I try to install [Plants vs. Zombies 2](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ea.game.pvz2_na) via Google Play, it says that the app is incompatible with my device.
How can I install this app?
<issue_comment>username_1: Try [this one](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ea.game.pvz2_row). Electronic Arts like to have one app for America and another for the rest of the world. If you click the 'Install' button it usually gives more information on why it is incompatible (e.g. "This item cannot be installed in your device's country").
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: May be to do with the intel chipset - there are quite a few games that are unable to be installed on mine for that reason.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/23 | 560 | 2,137 | <issue_start>username_0: Is it possible to make phone calls from a tablet and use minutes instead of data?
The ultimate goal is to have a tablet (e.g. nexus 7) and a Bluetooth headset and make phone calls without using up all my data.
I was looking into SIM cards to see if a different kind if card would produce the desired result, but I couldn't get a clear answer.<issue_comment>username_1: Where are you generally going to be using the tablet? Why can't you use your phone?
You can sign up for a free [Google voice](https://www.google.com/voice) phone number, install [Hangouts](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.talk) + [Hangouts dialer](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.hangoutsdialer) (or use the default [Google voice dialer](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.googlevoice&hl=en)) and make calls for free over wifi. You can also integrate SMS and all of this (excluding SMS I believe) can be done across any/all devices you own simultaneously (including PC - maybe no phone dialing on hangouts on PC however)
Minutes are becoming obsolete (SMS has been for a while) but if you don't have unlimited data yet, stick to wifi (becoming increasingly available in public locations). If you're at home, you won't be using any data anyways.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: It depends on the tablet. Not all 3G tablets have the facility to make voice calls (just like a phone), but some do. Some have the hardware and OS support, and you just need to install a dialer app to use it; some don't even have the right hardware. The Nexus 7 in particular doesn't.
You should check with the seller or the manufacturer's website before you choose a device.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I would put this as a comment, but I don't have enough reputation. I've heard the idea that if you were to side load the dialer onto a tablet you may be able to make a phone call. Granted this was a Nexus 7 sideloading the Nexus 5 dialer. I have not tried this, so I make no guarantees, but it might work.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/23 | 810 | 3,123 | <issue_start>username_0: I am transfering to a new phone, and I backed up my stuff using helium to Dropbox. Later I copied that folder to `carbon` folder on my sdcard, but helium doesnt seem to detect it. Any idea how I can restore that? It looks like the format is different.. Regular backup seems to be `carbon/com.appname/files` but in my dropbox backup, its only files, no folders at all.<issue_comment>username_1: There are multiple ways you can achieve this:
On the device
-------------
1. Start *Helium*
2. pick any "dummy app" to create a backup from
3. Exit *Helium*
4. Check where it placed the backup files, and which files those are (a backup consists of multiple files)
5. Copy your backup files to that location
6. Check if for each app there are all the files you've checked above1
7. Start *Helium* again, it now should find the backups
8. Restore whatever you wanted to restore
If the "old phone" is still up and running
------------------------------------------
The app is called "Helium *App Sync* and Backup". So when you go to its *Restore and Sync* tab, you should be able to transfer and restore the backups across the devices. I've never tried that, so I cannot give any details on it.
Using your computer
-------------------
*Helium Backup* uses the same file format as ADB (in fact, it uses ADB locally to create and restore backups). So with the backup files on your computer, and the device connected via USB with [usb-debugging](/questions/tagged/usb-debugging "show questions tagged 'usb-debugging'") enabled, you could simply restore the backups from the command line. Just pick the `.ab` files for that, and run
```
adb restore com.foobar.ab
```
(of course, you've got to replace `com.foobar.ab` by the real file names). See [Is there a minimal installation of ADB?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/42474/16575) if you didn't set up your computer for use with ADB yet. The downloads mentioned there can also be [found here](http://android.izzysoft.de/downloads).
---
**1:** I rawly remember from a while ago that *Helium* might "ignore" a backup when one of those files were missing
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: Dropbox backup lacked the folders for each app somehow, and thus was not recognized when I tried to copy it to the new phone. I instead made a backup to SD card and transferred it to the new phone to restore. Seems to be working thus far.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: If the files were .zip files as made by Helium V1.1.4.6 you can:
1. Unzip them until you have a folder `example app backup folder` with a `example app backup file.ab` file in it.
2. Then you can put that folder on your phone in the folder `\carbon`.
Then Helium detects it, since it also stores its own backups in that location.
3. Restore the app backups from your dropbox.
The difference is that when you export backups it creates zipfiles, otherwise it creates a folder with `.ab` files in it, as username_1's answer mentions.
This way you can:
* Restore all the files at once
* Without requiring to set up a connection with the pc.
Tested on Android 6.0.1
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/23 | 273 | 1,020 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm looking for an Android email client (preferably free) for my Galaxy S4 that has the feature of filtering incoming email by size, that is: some kind of rule of the type: if email is more than [insert number] Kb, don't download from server, etc.
An alternative would be to filter incoming mail with attachments, as all I really want is to not download big emails.
I have tried some popular apps including the default Samsung app, CloudMagic, Mailbox and all seem to lack this apparently basic funcionality.
Thanks in advance!<issue_comment>username_1: [K-9 Mail app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.fsck.k9&hl=en) (available on PlayStore) will filter by attachments, plus several other choices. It is [open sourced](https://code.google.com/p/k9mail/) and free.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Try this email app, it works very good with [hotmail and outlook account](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.syntomo.email&hl=en)
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/24 | 602 | 2,214 | <issue_start>username_0: I don't want to spend 30.00 on a USB wall charger if I don't have to. Can a cheap USB charger work to charge my AT7-C8 Toshiba tablet?<issue_comment>username_1: Sure can! Even old BlackBerry chargers work fine.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Of Course yes(but not recommeded), it will work but if you are using a cheap/duplicate/non-standard usb wall plug then surely it will damage the phone.Damage in the sense like even if u removed the charger it will show charging, touch wont work while charging, annoying notification "High Voltage" while charging please unplug - these things can damage your phone board if you are not cautious.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Possibly you can use a cheap charger, but it depends on the tablet as well as the charger.
Many cheap or OEM phone chargers give a low Amperage charge, from 400mA (milli amperes) to 1000mA. However, since tablets have a much larger battery, charging from a low amperage charger will cause the tablet to charge very slowly.
Most tablet USB chargers are designed to give a higher Amperage, in the range of 1000mA to 2000mA. They are generally bulkier due to the electronics needed to properly give more power. And it is also why they are more expensive.
Some tablets aren't even able to get a charge from low Amp chargers. For example, Apple's iPad will detect that you have plugged it into a charger, but it will say `not charging` if the charger doesn't have a high enough Amperage.
Basically, your tablet may reject cheap chargers, or it will charge very slowly. Check the `mA` spec of the cheap charger you are looking at; if it is below 1000mA (1A), it will likely either charge very slowly or it won't charge at all.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: It's highly NOT recommended. Despite of voltage and amperage, this cheap chargers doesn't have the same components. Some of this components regulate the tension, electrical oscillations and etc. Some of them are very expensive, so, the manufacturers decide to leave it out to achieve a cheap price. Your tablet may show some troubles with this type of charger. You can use another (good) brand, but avoid use this cheaper charger.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/24 | 523 | 2,372 | <issue_start>username_0: I see apps that require both root as well as regular permissions.
What's the point, as root implies that it can do everything?<issue_comment>username_1: The reason why is that root is system level, usually the part users don't have control over. The other permissions are required for access to user level, which users do have control over.
*Whenever you allow an app root/superuser access make sure you understand what it will do and make a backup.*
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Permissions in Android mainly affect functionality within the Android framework and other apps. Being root can't directly get you access to that Android and app functionality, because it grants you lower-level system access.
To take an example, consider an app that wants to access your contacts. When it tries to query the contacts *provider* (the database of contacts), the Contacts Storage app requires that it have the appropriate permission. In Unix system terms, each app has its own user ID, and permissions are represented by Unix groups, so it's really checking whether the app's user is a member of the appropriate group. If the app doesn't have that permission, the check will fail, even though the app could start a root shell whenever it likes.
Now, since the app has root, it's possible for it to add itself to any groups it wants to, before trying to access the contacts, but that's unnecessarily long-winded. It's simply much easier for the app to just request the permission and be added to the group by Android itself.
In addition, it's good for security if the app uses root as little as possible. Ideally, there should be a small component of the app that gets started as root when needed, so that most of the app runs normally (not as root). It might even be as simple as a single command that's started as root. This way, if something goes wrong with the rest of the app - maybe an attacker finds a way to subvert it, or maybe there's just a bug that might delete all your files - it doesn't have the root magic powers to infect or damage the whole system, as it's still protected by the normal security mechanism.
In short: it's possible for the app to grant itself any permissions using root, but it's easier for the programmer, and better for security, if the program only uses root when necessary.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/24 | 522 | 2,372 | <issue_start>username_0: I like to **install** `doldol launcher` will it dry battery quickly? or maintain battery backup normal like default `launcher`?<issue_comment>username_1: The reason why is that root is system level, usually the part users don't have control over. The other permissions are required for access to user level, which users do have control over.
*Whenever you allow an app root/superuser access make sure you understand what it will do and make a backup.*
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Permissions in Android mainly affect functionality within the Android framework and other apps. Being root can't directly get you access to that Android and app functionality, because it grants you lower-level system access.
To take an example, consider an app that wants to access your contacts. When it tries to query the contacts *provider* (the database of contacts), the Contacts Storage app requires that it have the appropriate permission. In Unix system terms, each app has its own user ID, and permissions are represented by Unix groups, so it's really checking whether the app's user is a member of the appropriate group. If the app doesn't have that permission, the check will fail, even though the app could start a root shell whenever it likes.
Now, since the app has root, it's possible for it to add itself to any groups it wants to, before trying to access the contacts, but that's unnecessarily long-winded. It's simply much easier for the app to just request the permission and be added to the group by Android itself.
In addition, it's good for security if the app uses root as little as possible. Ideally, there should be a small component of the app that gets started as root when needed, so that most of the app runs normally (not as root). It might even be as simple as a single command that's started as root. This way, if something goes wrong with the rest of the app - maybe an attacker finds a way to subvert it, or maybe there's just a bug that might delete all your files - it doesn't have the root magic powers to infect or damage the whole system, as it's still protected by the normal security mechanism.
In short: it's possible for the app to grant itself any permissions using root, but it's easier for the programmer, and better for security, if the program only uses root when necessary.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/24 | 589 | 2,608 | <issue_start>username_0: Following <http://wiki.cyanogenmod.org/w/Install_CM_for_VS980> to install cm on my Verizon VS980, I completed the steps and got a successful install but on reboot, my phone entered a boot loop, stopping at the LG logo. I can't seem to access TWRP recovery either, I tried multiple combinations including the instructions on the cyanogenmod wiki but still no luck.<issue_comment>username_1: The reason why is that root is system level, usually the part users don't have control over. The other permissions are required for access to user level, which users do have control over.
*Whenever you allow an app root/superuser access make sure you understand what it will do and make a backup.*
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Permissions in Android mainly affect functionality within the Android framework and other apps. Being root can't directly get you access to that Android and app functionality, because it grants you lower-level system access.
To take an example, consider an app that wants to access your contacts. When it tries to query the contacts *provider* (the database of contacts), the Contacts Storage app requires that it have the appropriate permission. In Unix system terms, each app has its own user ID, and permissions are represented by Unix groups, so it's really checking whether the app's user is a member of the appropriate group. If the app doesn't have that permission, the check will fail, even though the app could start a root shell whenever it likes.
Now, since the app has root, it's possible for it to add itself to any groups it wants to, before trying to access the contacts, but that's unnecessarily long-winded. It's simply much easier for the app to just request the permission and be added to the group by Android itself.
In addition, it's good for security if the app uses root as little as possible. Ideally, there should be a small component of the app that gets started as root when needed, so that most of the app runs normally (not as root). It might even be as simple as a single command that's started as root. This way, if something goes wrong with the rest of the app - maybe an attacker finds a way to subvert it, or maybe there's just a bug that might delete all your files - it doesn't have the root magic powers to infect or damage the whole system, as it's still protected by the normal security mechanism.
In short: it's possible for the app to grant itself any permissions using root, but it's easier for the programmer, and better for security, if the program only uses root when necessary.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/24 | 362 | 1,345 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to use WinSCP to FTP a file out of /data/data (well, it's directory is contained in the /data/data directory, which is the important part). But I get a "Code: 5" error from WinSCP, access denied, that is. I've tried to chmod the file I need. But still no luck. Is there any way to FTP a file out of /data/data?
I know the directory is protected. And I know I can use adbd Insecure to pull a file through adb. But I need to be able to pull the file at any time, without a USB connection. And adb tcpip is only good until a reboot. So adb is out of the question, it seems.
Thanks for any help!<issue_comment>username_1: You could try to find an ftp server app that supports rooted devices to access system folders. If you don't have to use ftp, you could use airdroid, which also has a remote file manager.
Another option (if your device is rooted) would be to symlink the folder so that it's stored on /sdcard, which you can easily access
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Turns out it works to just remount the system partition as read-write:
In a shell instance:
```
su
mount -o remount,rw /system /system
```
I had read before, somewhere, that this didn't work and caused some people issues. But I tried it as a last-ditch effort. It worked for me, at the very least.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/24 | 420 | 1,638 | <issue_start>username_0: Unless I select 2G as the "preferred network type", my oneplus one disconnects from the carrier. Not just the data connection, even the phone one.
My operator is I WIND.
It's not a SIM problem, since that same SIM works fine on my old phone, and it's not a "it's not inserted well" problem, since if I select 2G it works.
What can I do to investigate the problem? Is this operator not supported or is the phone defective, or maybe some strange misconfiguration? On the official site they claim it is supported "with limited LTE", but it doesn't work with 3G either, while I obviously assumed it did.<issue_comment>username_1: My OPO works fine with 3g and 4g, have you checked the 4g bands are compatible (there is a list on OPO website, and there should be one on I winds).
Are you sure it is losing connection, not just the signal icon showing a drop when switching between sources.
For 3g have you tried restarting (and would you normally get coverage in the area), if so you could try another sim (a friends on a different network) see if it works, if it doesn't it may be a hardware fault.
If another network works and the network bands say your network should work I would contact your network and if they can't help switch network (which you have the freedom of doing, thanks to buying upfront).
If other networks don't work I would recommend reflashing cm11s, especially the radio.IMG, as that will reset the 3g/4g firmware.
If all else fails, contact One plus.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Updating to 4.4.4 solved the problem (it came with 4.4.2 installed).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/24 | 322 | 1,236 | <issue_start>username_0: Please help me to stop auto login in Skype. There is an account that is always login again and again, although I chose to logout and sign in with another Skype name. I tried on `Settings/applications/Skype` to kill the account and to quit synchronise, but still whenever I open Skype again, I'm logging in automatically.<issue_comment>username_1: Have you tried clearing data and reinstalling?
If so try using greenify (play store) to greenish the app (will prevent it from running), if that isn't your problem, try deleting the offending Skype account (from the web)
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: On the latest version of Skype (5.0.x as of this writing), if you log in using the offending account, click the menu button and choose Settings, there is a "Sign In Automatically" option under General settings:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GQl58.jpg)
*[click for larger version]*
Make sure that is unchecked.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: In the current version (5.7) you need to follow these steps:
* Sign out (click on your avatar and then choose "sign out")
* Go to the Android application manager, find Skype, then click "Force Stop".
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/25 | 309 | 1,286 | <issue_start>username_0: If I'm grocery shopping and have Google Keep up on my watch with the list, I'd ideally want the watch to go directly to the application every time I wake it until explicitly exiting. Under present behavior, it's necessary to navigate back to the application every time I want to look at another list item -- a step which makes its use utterly inconvenient.
Is this behavior configurable?<issue_comment>username_1: Unfortunately, watches tend to have a fairly low battery life. As a result, there are no settings that allow you to do an "always on" screen. The closest to what you may be looking for is Ambient Mode on the Moto360 - but even that turns off after about 15 seconds.
In later generations of the watch and Android Wear OS, I'm sure they'll begin implementing features that allow you to resume/pause apps and keep the screen on for longer periods of time.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I discovered the PinAnApp app for android which provides a nifty swipe gesture to keep the current app open and/or the screen on. Fills the current hole until app vendors take advantage of the new Android Wear "always on" functionality directly. <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.trigonesoft.pinanapp&hl=en>
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/25 | 629 | 2,367 | <issue_start>username_0: "With the device powered down, hold Volume Down & Power. When the LG logo appears release the buttons and then press them again. Then, press the Power button three times!" (from cyanogenmod wiki) doesn't work for me. I can't seem to figure out how to get to TWRP to restore my phone (currently in a boot loop).
Doesn't connect to adb either because the boot loop stops at LG logo and reboots.<issue_comment>username_1: From [Android Geeks](http://www.android.gs/how-to-enter-recovery-mode-on-lg-g2/):
>
> 1. First of all, take your phone and press the power button; the select “power off”.
> 2. Wait while your phone is shutting down; wait a few seconds and then proceed.
> 3. Now, press the volume down and power button at the same time for 2 or 3 seconds until the LG logo appears on the display.
> 4. Then release the buttons and then press and hold them again.
> 5. Keep pressing the buttons until the recovery mode menu will be displayed on your LG G2.
> 6. That’s it.
> 7. If you then want to go back to Android OS, just select “reboot system now”.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: How to Enter Recovery Mode on LG G2 *(quick easy steps)*
--------------------------------------------------------
1. Press the **Volume Down** and the **Power Button** at the same time, about **2-3 seconds until the LG Logo shows**.
2. When the LG Logo shows, **release** the buttons **and then press and hold them again**.
3. Keep pressing the buttons until the Recovery Mode Menu displays.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Try This :
* Turn off the device
* Press and hold Volume Down key + Power Key about 6-7 seconds
* Release Power key when LG logo appear
* When still pressing Volume Down key, press Power key one more
* Release Volume down key when Factory Data Reset menu appears
I think this should work, as this is the only way, it opens recovery mode.
Helpful Links :
<http://www.recovery-mode.com/android/lg-g2-ls980.html>
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: **Enter Recovery Mode Using `adb`.**
If you are experiencing inconveniences rebooting in recovering mode using the Volume Down and Power buttons, then this method could help to ease the reboot process. It requires `adb`.
`adb reboot recovery`
I used it many times to restart the device in TeamWin Recovery Project, and worked like a charm.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/25 | 656 | 2,492 | <issue_start>username_0: How can I restrict other WhatsApp users from messaging me, who are not in my mobile contacts. Me and my friend have given a try by simply deleting my fiend contact number from my mobile, and he's still able to send me message in whatsapp-messenger.
So, is it that, anybody can send messages to anyone in the world, provided if they know the mobile number? If so, where is the privacy? Is there a setting option?
Do I have only one option to block them? I would like to see only people in my contacts list message me.<issue_comment>username_1: From [Android Geeks](http://www.android.gs/how-to-enter-recovery-mode-on-lg-g2/):
>
> 1. First of all, take your phone and press the power button; the select “power off”.
> 2. Wait while your phone is shutting down; wait a few seconds and then proceed.
> 3. Now, press the volume down and power button at the same time for 2 or 3 seconds until the LG logo appears on the display.
> 4. Then release the buttons and then press and hold them again.
> 5. Keep pressing the buttons until the recovery mode menu will be displayed on your LG G2.
> 6. That’s it.
> 7. If you then want to go back to Android OS, just select “reboot system now”.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: How to Enter Recovery Mode on LG G2 *(quick easy steps)*
--------------------------------------------------------
1. Press the **Volume Down** and the **Power Button** at the same time, about **2-3 seconds until the LG Logo shows**.
2. When the LG Logo shows, **release** the buttons **and then press and hold them again**.
3. Keep pressing the buttons until the Recovery Mode Menu displays.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Try This :
* Turn off the device
* Press and hold Volume Down key + Power Key about 6-7 seconds
* Release Power key when LG logo appear
* When still pressing Volume Down key, press Power key one more
* Release Volume down key when Factory Data Reset menu appears
I think this should work, as this is the only way, it opens recovery mode.
Helpful Links :
<http://www.recovery-mode.com/android/lg-g2-ls980.html>
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: **Enter Recovery Mode Using `adb`.**
If you are experiencing inconveniences rebooting in recovering mode using the Volume Down and Power buttons, then this method could help to ease the reboot process. It requires `adb`.
`adb reboot recovery`
I used it many times to restart the device in TeamWin Recovery Project, and worked like a charm.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/25 | 1,832 | 6,317 | <issue_start>username_0: I had the Wikipedia app installed a few weeks ago. It lacked the ability to switch between different languages (link to read the same article in a different language), and it still does. This bothered me a lot since I know more than one language and some articles are much better written in other languages. So I like the ability to easily switch language. This is something that works very good on the mobile versions of Wikipedia (e.g. `m.en.wikipedia.org`).
Here's a screenshot showing an example.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2BEja.png)
*Click on the image for a larger view.*
So I uninstalled the Wikipedia app in order to go back to browsing Wikipedia content normally via the Chrome or Firefox Web browser. But now when I do a search with Google, and I see a Wikipedia link in the result, it says "Wikipedia app" underneath it. If I tap on it, it tries to open it in Wikipedia app, and since it is uninstalled now, it brings me to the app page in Play Store.
Is there a way I can disable or disallow this behaviour? I certainly don't approve of it, but I was never asked about it either. I'm not interested in using the Wikipedia app any more. I just want normal Web browsing to be back. Is that too much to ask? I tried re-installing and uninstalling the Wikipedia app two times, it didn't help.
Update
======
---
You may have noticed that there is an "Open on wikipedia.org" link further down the page. This will certainly open the article in the browser, instead of insisting on opening in the Wikipedia app. But the problem with this is that it's much harder to pin-point the link, because it has smaller font size.
As for "Default applications" menu option, I don't have any option to disable Wikipedia or wiki links. I only have "Home", and "Message" options.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CdmxD.png)
Update 2
========
---
**The problem is with Chrome**
This problem is clearly related to Chrome browser only. Here are two screenshots of Chrome and Firefox respectively, showing the same Google search results.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YpvzJ.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2BEja.png)
*Firefox on the left, Chrome on the right.*
Firefox (version 32.0.3) clearly doesn't even have the ability to link to the Wikipedia app. Instead, it would show the article as a normal web page. Regardless of whether or not the Wikipedia app is installed or not.
**There are no default options**
As can be seen from the screenshot above, in first update, the "Default applications" option has no options to set or reset defaults for wiki links (or other types of app links in Chrome). Additionally, there are no default settings that can be reset under Application manager. Not for Chrome, nor for Wikipedia app. It just says "no defaults set".
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/c4cG8.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nuk4S.png)
*Chrome on the left, Wikipedia on the right.*
**Latest Chrome update solves the problem**
Chrome version 33.0.1750.517 came with the latest Android 4.4.2 (or a few versions below that, for this phone model anyway). In this version, tapping on a link for a Wikipedia article redirects to the Wikipedia app automatically. If the Wikipedia app is not present, it brings up the app page in Play Store. This behavior can't be change through setting in the Chrome browser or some default settings in the phone menu. However, updating Chrome to the latest version, which at the moment is 37.0.2062.117 does away with this problem. The first noticeable difference is that it presents the "Complete action using" dialog, which was not present with version 33.x.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wV2RC.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/O6Wib.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/o3nQQ.png)
*Chrome 33 on the left, Chrome 37 in the middle, Wikipedia 2.0-r-2014-08-13 on the right.*
The second difference is what's really good! When you uninstall Wikipedia, it no longer shows the "Complete action" dialog. Neither does it bring up the app page in Play Store. Instead, it opens the Wikipedia article like a normal web page. The normal behavior one would expect. Yes, it still says "Wikipedia app" underneath the link, but it opens like a normal web page. The same behavior as seen in Firefox.<issue_comment>username_1: This is in part because the Wikipedia app is set as the default app for Wikipedia links, and in part because Chrome is not up to date.
1. Go to Settings menu.
2. Tap "More".
3. Tap "Application manager".
4. If the Wikipedia app is installed, go to step 4. Else, go to step 7.
5. Locate "Wikipedia" and tap on it.
6. Under "Launch by default", tap the "Clear defaults" button.
7. Go back to Application manager.
8. Locate "Chrome" and tap on it.
9. If Chrome version number is equal or greater than 37.0.2062.117, press the home
button to go back to the home screen. Else, go to Play Store, locate
"Chrome" and make sure to get the latest update.
10. Open Chrome. The following steps are optional.
11. Press the Menu button on the phone.
12. Tap on "Settings".
13. Tap on "Content settings".
14. Tap on "Website settings".
15. Locate "en.m.wikipedia.org" and tap on it.
16. Tap "Clear stored data".
17. Press the home button to go back to the home screen.
*These steps apply to Android 4.4.2.*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/u3MxD.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yAnlT.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/I9pW6.png)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Follow this workaround: Go to Settings → Applications → Internet → change the default search engine to Bing. Bing will not automatically redirect you to Google Play and it opens the page in browser.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/09/25 | 375 | 1,618 | <issue_start>username_0: For last two months or so, the situation in my two years old international HTC One X is that the data is not connecting when it is on 3g network but it is working absolutely fine with 2g network. when its connected to 3g, the mobile network fluctuates, data works with 3g speed for only few minutes and signal drops out. In simple terms, on 3g it fluctuates in data access and network access whereas on 2g it works absolutely fine.
I have changed two 3g enabled sim of different carriers they are also performing the same way in my HTC one x. I have changed the location of the phone, the problem persists. My sim also works fine with another handset in 3g as well as in 2g. So the conclusion is that there is fault with my HTC one x but the question remains what is the fault. Whether software or hardware. I have also done the factory reset but to no avail and I have also switched to custom rom but the problem is still there.
Any solution would be of great help.<issue_comment>username_1: In your mobile network settings ensure that data in roaming is enabled and working. Secondly, the data channel option will be there in the mobile while addressing the APN and advanced settings. In that option you choose your service provider channel.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: It seems like the problem has to be with Hardware. On the software side, everything is fine. Might be the hardware of the phone and ROM are not in Sync and thus you are not getting the desired performance for 3G service. Consult official HTC service providers and tell them to address this issue.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/09/25 | 332 | 1,374 | <issue_start>username_0: Google+ doesn't upload my photos consistently, and sometimes it uploads them out of order.
Why would the app not do its job consistently? There are missing pictures, and then a week later they randomly show up (sometimes, sometimes not), and sometimes out of sequence, which is very frustrating.
If I uninstall and reinstall Google+, will it have to reload the last 4 years of pictures? Or worse, lose my pictures from my old droid that died? I have plenty of storage space left (several GB).
It is a new Samsung S5 phone, but I have the same problem on the old Droid Razor. Auto upload is enabled, and if I try the "upload now" option, it tells me everything is already uploaded, when I can clearly see I am missing pictures.<issue_comment>username_1: You can access the site of Plus (plus.google.com) and see if your photos are ok. If everything is fine, you can even reset your phone and your photos will be safe. After check your photos on the site, you can try to uninstall and reinstall the app. Maybe it solve the problem.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Maybe because you choosed "Only WiFi" when the app asked you if you want to upload photos via wifi, mobile or both...
Try clearing G+'s data and restarting the settings step from zero...
I had a similar problem with a S4 and this was the problem/solution ;)
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/09/26 | 487 | 1,992 | <issue_start>username_0: Recently, whenever I install an application on my phone, I get a notification: "blank SD card detected", then I will have to repair it using a computer.
I tried using another SD card but the problem persisted. I didn't have this problem before I rooted my phone. Instead, all media files will be deleted.
I tried formatting both the phone and the SD card (using Ubuntu), but the problem persisted. I installed an antivirus but it is useless.
Note: I have installed Link2SD to gain more space and I think it might be the problem: The ext2 partition works fine but the fat32 will always crash. I get:
>
> SD card blank or has unsupported file system.
>
>
>
I can format the SD card so it works but whenever I install anything the error will come back. What is the solution?<issue_comment>username_1: It seems like a very common problem among Android-based smartphones.
I had a Samsung S3 (or GT-i9300 if you prefer) and it burned six microsd cards...
I tried doing a factory reset (since I had a custom rom) but nothing changed. Thought it was the microsd manufacturer, so I began buying expensive and faster cards but, again, nothing changed. Then I returned the phone to Samsung but they told me nothing was wrong.
After nine months of memory cards being broken at a speed unknown by human race, I decided to sell the S3 and move to another company (Google and their various Nexus products): I don't have the chance to expand the memory with an external card, but at least I don't have to spend hundreds of dollars to buy new sds xD
BTW the only reason I can think of is that moving an app to the sd requires the phone to continually read data from the card, causing an over-heating situation that damages it...
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I think the problem is in partitioning the sd card itself. Some phones/sd cards are not compatible with such change and hence your sd card will be destroyed as long as you keep partitioning it.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/09/26 | 423 | 1,674 | <issue_start>username_0: Yo,
I like to listen to music through headphones, so I'd like to tweak the sound parameters on my phone and tablet to my taste.
What can be done in this direction? My devices are not rooted.<issue_comment>username_1: There are numerous Equalizer Apps on the Play Store for those who haven't got root access.
If you want to manipulate / enhance your sound quality even more there are a lot of improvements for rooted devices.
I know that [CyanogenMod](http://www.cyanogenmod.org/) has some features especially for music enthusiasts. i.e a very customizable Equalizer.
Having the root access which comes with CM you can also install MOD's like the [ACID](http://blooglog.blogspot.ch/2013/02/acid-audio-engine-mod-to-improve-sound.html) audio engine which is said to improve audio quality significantly, especially when listening with headphones.
FYI: the [CyanogenMod Installer](http://beta.download.cyanogenmod.org/install) is back which allows you to install it without having much knowledge of rooting devices.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Sound purely depends on phone make and model and the headsets too. Most of the phones support 5-band custom Equalizer (you can tweak them just like that) and some phones only support the given presets like Bass, Flat, Treble , 5.1 Channel etc. Sony phones have their own technology like xLoud and ClearBass. So it depends on various things. Also you can download music players from Play Store if the stock music player doesn't support all these options.
Try all of these and pick the best **as you've not mentioned your phone and tablet model and are not rooted.**
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/09/26 | 2,551 | 10,203 | <issue_start>username_0: I was using ES Explorer to connect to a PC okay but recently I changed the modem then my Android phone can't connect to the computer anymore. I thought it would be caused by a setting on my modem, but searching on Google cannot help me find out. Please tell me how to get my android connected to the PC so I can access files again.
Details:
I have ES Explorer 3 on Android.
My Android is connected to the internet through the same modem as my PC.
The D partition has been shared as "Everyone to view.
When I add a new server from ES File Explorer, it says "Error, Can not find the server"
Update: I have turned off Windows Firewall.<issue_comment>username_1: I have just found out the answer after visiting [here](https://superuser.com/questions/605452/connect-from-android-es-file-explorer-to-windows-7-share). Instead of inputting `192.168.1.104`, we must input `smb://192.168.1.104/`
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Those who didn't set a user password for your PC:
You will have errors connecting to server (to your PC) if you leave the password blank. Set up your account password in your PC then use that to connect.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I had the same problem. It was with the router. The router was DLink Dsl 2750 u. In wireless basic settings > enable multiAP isolation. That was enabled, I disabled it and I was able to access my pc. Check it if multiAP/multicast isolation is enabled on your router. If it is disable it.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: I tried the solutions mentioned above and in the linked thread. None of them worked.
What did work was disabling password protected sharing. This works on Windows Vista, Windows 7, Windows 8.1 and Windows 10
1. Go to network and sharing center
2. Change advanced sharing settings
3. All networks (at the bottom)
4. Turn off password protected sharing
At that point I was able to use the ES file explorer scan option to detect the machine. It should show up as grey. Now edit it and enter your Windows 10 account information and you are good to go.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: In my case, there was a bug with the password. I recently changed the password of my Microsoft Account (which I used to log in to my PC) so I was trying to use my new password in ES Explorer. However, the password that worked was my ***old*** password. I guess this is a bug where Windows doesn't update the password used for remote connections and file sharing.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: I have a laptop with non updated Windows 10 - sharing is no problem with passwords
My computer updated to latest Windows 10 version is showing in ES File Explorer.
But received error: `"Error, Can not find the server" with password protection on Windows 10`.
Tried the tricks mentioned here but no luck.
Only thing that works is to;
1. Turned off password-protected sharing
2. Tick the Anonymous box in ES File Explorer
This temporarily allowed access to public folders but not access other folders that are displayed!!
And this access to public folders was only temporary (once off) now only displays the shared folders but cannot open any of them!!!
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_7: I had the same problem after updating Windows 10. This is what I did to fix it:
1. Select the LAN connection of the Win10 PC (under Network tab in ES Explorer. If you deleted it, scan again to get the connection).
2. Select "Edit Server" option.
3. Enter your Computer name in the "Domain" textbox. Don't change any other thing.
4. OK, and enjoy the SMB re-connection!!
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_8: So, the only way I got this working was to turn off password protected sharing. Then on es file explorer press and hold on my laptops icon in the network search then click the pencil at the top right then in domain entered the name of my laptop then entered my username and password and then that was it. I was able to see all my files but I cant get into the c drive only my files in my user folder are accessible and obviously public folders. So even turning off the password sharing it still seems secure.
Hope that helps.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_9: On Windows Vista:
In `Network and Sharing Center` there's a button for `Media Sharing`. I clicked on the drop down arrow and got an option of `Change`. On the next screen were permissions. `Share My Media To` `Other users of the PC` was not ticked, so I ticked it.
This solved the problem in my case
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_10: Instead of using the full e-mail address of your Microsoft account, just use the first five characters. I'm not sure if that's how it generates the username, but you can check what it exactly is by typing 'whoami' in command prompt, and your username will appear after the slash for the domain.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_11: Here's a summary of some important LAN (SMB) connection options to check and edit
(using the ES File Explorer "Edit Server" option of a selected connection in the Network tab):
1. The "Domain" option - try putting the computer/server name in this textbox.
On Windows, I think this is the first part of the full user account name (separated by "/").
On Unix/Linux (Samba file servers), this is the setting called "workgroup/NT-domain name".
(from the answer at <https://android.stackexchange.com/a/150598/239104>)
2. The "Server" option - before the IP address, try adding `smb://` (the URI protocol scheme).
However, I tested a connection without this prefix in version 4.1.6 and it worked so this appears to be no longer needed.
(from the answer at <https://android.stackexchange.com/a/83428/239104>, information originally from <https://superuser.com/questions/605452/connect-from-android-es-file-explorer-to-windows-7-share>)
3. Old/new Windows password, username (check with the `whoami` command), sharing permissions/configuration file on the Windows computer/Linux Samba share (e.g. password protected sharing), network router options, network connections.
If they don't work, try switching the WiFi/wireless off on the Android device then reconnecting, checking the server/computer is connected to the network/internet (`hostname -I` on Unix/Linux) or restarting the Android device.
Alternatively, if you're trying to connect to a server that has a [SSH](https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secure_Shell "A Wikipedia article with information about SSH") (Secure Shell) service (port 22), you can use SFTP (SSH File Transfer Protocol) to access files with a user account on the server.
This connection type is available in ES File Explorer - just use the "Network" tab "New" button.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_12: Type `whoami` in command prompt, it will retrieve the full username of your computer.
Copy the part after backslash and keep it somewhere ready. Type `ipconfig` in command prompt again and find out what is the IP address of your windows machine.
* Usually it shows as this "Ethernet adapter Ethernet: `IPv4 Address. . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.102`.
* Copy it and keep it somewhere. Now take your windows machine's password as well and keep it somewhere.
* Go to Windows explorer, and type the following address in the address bar, and press enter "Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Network and Sharing Center\Advanced sharing settings"
* In Private Network section, select these "turn on network discovery and its subordinate checkbox", "turn on file and printer sharing", then again use this address in windows explorer "Control Panel\All Control Panel Items\Network and Sharing Center" and make sure your ethernet adapter is a private network.
* Now go to android, open your local network app (in this case es explorer, but this works for other apps as well), use the copied ip address in the host name/ip address textbox, use the copied username and password, and press connect.
* It will instantly connect to your windows PC where you will see all the shared folders.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_13: Windows 10 by default disables SMBv1. So, go to "**Turn Windows features on or off**" > enable **SMB 1.0/CIFS File Sharing Support**. Now Restart your PC.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_14: I have solved my problem by 'changing PC name'
recently I have changde my PC name and write it in small letters, so write in Capital letters
after much struggle I found solution by changing PC name,
If you change your PC name then try this solution
under
my computer →
properties →
advance system setting →
in computer name tab find change in bottom
write with capital letters
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_15: I have got this from time to time, e.g. after the computer has reloaded with a different IP or if I have changed the computer name. When it occurs I usually delete the server from the app, unload ES File Explorer completely, and restart my phone and/or tablet, then when it comes up I re-scan and it seems to be OK again. I have never had to add 'smb://' to the IP, or change from Anonymous, to fix the problem.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_16: In my case ES File Explorer was not listing my PC under LAN Connections. I solved it by disabling `Enable Wireless Isolation` under Basic Wireless Settings of my Router's Settings Page.
Follow this if your PC is not listed under LAN Connections in ES File Explorer.
* Open your Router's Settings page in browser. To do that enter your router's IPv4 Address in Address bar. To Find Router's IP Address run "ipconfig" on your Command prompt. Find IP Address adjacent to Default Gateway (IP format would be 192.xxx.x.x).
* Login to your Router's settings. If it is public Wifi and you don't know the password, ask the authorities.
* Go Wireless Settings -> Basic Wireless Settings (Options might differ for different routers, mine was Digisol Router). If your Options are different go to Settings similar to Basic Wireless Settings.
* Once you are in Basic Wireless Settings Find `Enable Wireless Isolation` or `enable multiAP isolation` and disable it.
* After disabling check in your ES File Explorer whether your PC is listed under LAN connections. It must be listed.
Upvotes: 0 |