date stringlengths 10 10 | nb_tokens int64 60 629k | text_size int64 234 1.02M | content stringlengths 234 1.02M |
|---|---|---|---|
2014/05/06 | 336 | 1,464 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a FairPhone One. From time to time I look in the system settings and the battery usage to see what is draining the battery. I've disabled anything I don't use, including a number of builtins from Google. I've also looked at other apps and if their permissions are in balance with what they're supposed to do. (Simple games should not have access to my phone calls.)
What is YGPS and why does it have the longest possible list of permissions? Can I safely disable it?<issue_comment>username_1: YGPS, as far as I can discern (I don't own a FairPhone), is an app which lets you view what GPS satellites your phone is currently connected to. I'm guessing it probably provides the same kind of function here, and is likely draining your battery life because it's constantly making GPS calls in the background.
My guess is that, being a poorly developed app, the developers decided to call every permission possible to ensure they wouldn't run into any issues. It's likely only using the GPS function of the phone anyway, but considering you were going to anyway it's probably not a bad idea to disable it.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: It has beau coup permissions because it it a system app running in a phone/sms/gps/sim process that needs those permissions.Battery usage may be due to phone, sms, etc monitoring.
I prefer GPS Status app to view satellite array info, compass, battery temperature, voltage, etc.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/06 | 896 | 3,704 | <issue_start>username_0: My parents can't read the road names the Google maps app, and I can't find a way round it. (Should have gone to spec savers). I have tried using Google maps via Chrome and Firefox and their increase text size features but Google Maps ignores it.
Options are flexible as I have rooted the phone and am willing to load any reasonably well tested custom ROM.
I've tried countless map apps and they're all as hard to read, so I thought I'd ask as Google Maps has probably been hacked around with more than others<issue_comment>username_1: You can't change the text size in Google Maps, because the whole map, including the labels, is retrieved from Google's servers as an image. (In fact, they're lots of small images called *tiles*. For this reason, using a different app that embeds Google Maps won't help at all: they're all just displaying the same tiles.
If you want a map that looks different, you'll need to use an OpenStreetMap-based app. OpenStreetMap (OSM) is like the Wikipedia of maps: it's a free, open map of the world maintained and updated by volunteers. Since the raw map data are available for anyone to use, there are some OSM apps that generate the map image on your device, instead of downloading tiles from a central server. Such apps have more options for customizing the map to suit your needs, so while I don't know off-hand of one with text size options, this starting point might help you to find one.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: This is an issue with the newer Maps (7 and above). You could try reverting to the version 6, such as 6.14.4
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: There is a way to enlarge the map that a lot of people are forgetting. You can take a screen shot and then enlarge the shot just like you can zoom in on any photo. Some people don't realize that you can do a screen shot of your phone by holding down the power and home screen button at the same time.
I know it isn't a "fix" but it does show you a copy of the map you can see.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I recognize the issue with Google Maps, l suggest this simple trick: When you find e.g. a road-name hard to read, just TEMPORARILY stretch out the map near the name with two fingers (but do not let go! ) , then easily read the name, and finally (even if just approximately ) draw your fingers back together to see the main map again.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Try going into Settings / My Device / Accessibility and turning on Magnification Gestures.
A triple tap on your scree will enlarge what is there including text and then another triple tap will take you back. While it is enlarged, you can scroll with one finger.
That's the best I've found so far.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: In my Samsung Galaxy 6 (Android phone), I went into the settings, searched "FONT". Got 2 choices: type of fonts and size. I changed and applied.
Now can see the writings on Google Map.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_7: I also suffer from this problem hence the reason for trying to find a solution. I have just compared the results of Google maps with an app I downloaded a while ago and keep forgetting about. The result is not massively bigger road names / numbers but much easier to read. Bonus is that the maps are used offline, just need a gps signal to show directions instructions. Check out MAPS.ME I think it's really good and definitely reduces eye strain. Enjoy.
username_7
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_8: I solved this on my iPad by taking a screenshot and expanding the screenshot as much as I need to read the text and road numbers. Take fresh screenshots anytime, delete the old ones.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/05/07 | 488 | 1,878 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a task for my company to remotely control Android devices in the whole company from PC. So I need an app which could control Android Device from PC (not vice versa). I found an app called MyMobiler (<http://mymobiler.com/index.html>). This app allows me to view/control Android device from PC. You just need to download an app from Google Play and standalone program for PC.
Everything works fine with USB (I can control and view the device from PC), but when I try to connect it via Wifi, I am unable to do it. Basically I get an IP address on my Android device, and I write this IP address in the "Connect IP" window (<http://mymobiler.com/android-wifi-keyboard.html>). But when I press "Connect", I wait for about 30 seconds and get an error which say "Unnable to connect your device ..... [my IP address]". Any ideas? Thank you for any responses and appreciate any help :)
**EDIT**: This is how I get IP address of the network on my Android phone:
I downloaded MyMobiler app from Google Play (<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mymobiler.android>). When I first launch it, I have to turn big blue button ON (<http://mymobiler.com/android-setup-start.html>) and when on my PC, I have to press "Connect" button to connect with USB. When in my Android app the screen changes from localhost to IP address. This is how I get IP address. When back to PC I press "Connect IP" and typ this exact IP (for ex.: 192.168.2.132). When I press "Connect" and after 30 seconds waiting, I get "Unnable to connect device ...[my IP]"<issue_comment>username_1: OK, I changed to another network and it started to working. It may be some permission which denied my app from working. Thank you very much, onik, for assistance.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I recommend <http://www.teamviewer.com>. For personal use it's free.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/07 | 599 | 2,066 | <issue_start>username_0: Recently Google launched a new camera app named [Google Camera](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.GoogleCamera). Looking it's features, I found it has Photo Sphere and Panorama options. But when I installed it on my Moto G device it doesn't have both of those options. Only Lens Blur, (normal) Camera and Video options are available. See this:
What is the reason behind it? Or is there any setting I have to activate?<issue_comment>username_1: Moto G **doesn't have a Gyroscope Sensor** (but it has an accelerometer). That's why Moto G didn't get the Photosphere option.
Actually, Panorama doesn't require a gyroscope. While there are obviously ways to do panoramas without a gyroscope. It looks like they use the same engine as Photosphere to do the panoramas. So the app also lacks Panorama.
**[Source Thread](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2549270)**
**[Google Camera G+ Thread](https://plus.google.com/u/0/+android/posts/86JHD2mWW6k)**
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: There are several reasons for this, but it is mainly due to hardware limitations, Photosphere and panorama stitch together multiple images at the pixel level and require some pretty processor intensive work. Some users also mention that the lack of a gyroscope sensor as a possible reason.
I have googled and found at least 3 sources that corroborate this. Sorry but it looks like your out of luck.
<http://www.engadget.com/2014/04/16/google-stock-camera-app-photo-sphere-lens-blur/>
<https://www.yahoo.com/tech/the-best-features-of-googles-new-android-camera-app-83124330305.html>
<http://www.slashgear.com/moto-g-google-play-edition-hands-on-vs-motorolas-g-15313328/>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: You can take panorama photos on the Motorola Moto G, if you use the Motorola Camera that was preinstalled. There is an option to take a panorama shot when you swipe from left to right in the camera interface. Hope this helps.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/07 | 512 | 1,748 | <issue_start>username_0: My s5 allows me to have S-Voice always listening for its hot word. I would rather have Google always listening for its hot word. I don't see how to do this. Any ideas?
thanks<issue_comment>username_1: Moto G **doesn't have a Gyroscope Sensor** (but it has an accelerometer). That's why Moto G didn't get the Photosphere option.
Actually, Panorama doesn't require a gyroscope. While there are obviously ways to do panoramas without a gyroscope. It looks like they use the same engine as Photosphere to do the panoramas. So the app also lacks Panorama.
**[Source Thread](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2549270)**
**[Google Camera G+ Thread](https://plus.google.com/u/0/+android/posts/86JHD2mWW6k)**
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: There are several reasons for this, but it is mainly due to hardware limitations, Photosphere and panorama stitch together multiple images at the pixel level and require some pretty processor intensive work. Some users also mention that the lack of a gyroscope sensor as a possible reason.
I have googled and found at least 3 sources that corroborate this. Sorry but it looks like your out of luck.
<http://www.engadget.com/2014/04/16/google-stock-camera-app-photo-sphere-lens-blur/>
<https://www.yahoo.com/tech/the-best-features-of-googles-new-android-camera-app-83124330305.html>
<http://www.slashgear.com/moto-g-google-play-edition-hands-on-vs-motorolas-g-15313328/>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: You can take panorama photos on the Motorola Moto G, if you use the Motorola Camera that was preinstalled. There is an option to take a panorama shot when you swipe from left to right in the camera interface. Hope this helps.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/08 | 515 | 2,023 | <issue_start>username_0: what I would like to do is be able to take a text message and copy a PORTION of it to use somewhere else. This comes in handy if an email address or phone number wasn't automatically picked up. Especially if it's part of a long text.
The problem is that I can only copy the entire text message, and the text selection arrows never show up. I have used several sms apps and they all seem to do this.
Usually, I long press on the message, then a screen pops up asking me what I want to do. I select copy, and now all the text is in my clipboard. However, as stated above, I only want a portion of that text, not all of it.
If you are wondering, I have an HTC One, running Android 4.4.2 and HTC Sense 5.5.
If anyone knows a way to do this, please let me know. I'm open to using a different SMS app if that's what it takes. Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: *This is not a direct solution, but a workaround.*
You could forward the message (but not send it); this is a feature the stock Messaging app supports. When you forward a message, it puts that message into edit mode, as if you were sending a new message. From here, you can select the text that you want to copy.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Since I only need to modify a standard SMS answer, I found that : swipe the model/standard message to the right then menu copy text works, then open new SMS and paste in it; then delete whatever is not appropriate anymore.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I copy entire message and paste it as a reply. And from there I copy what I need. Mostly passwords. Then I remove rest of the text so it won't stay as a draft.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: With [Textra SMS](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.textra) you can copy selected text
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: for anyone still having this issue like I did; try double-tapping on a message, on oxygenOS it opens the message in a new view and selecting becomes possible.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/08 | 732 | 3,067 | <issue_start>username_0: In 4.2.2 Jelly Bean when one goes to **Settings -> Battery Use** and tap the graph at the top can find the History details of the charging/discharging of the battery. There are some other historical data below the diagram: - **Mobile network signal** [was cleared](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/20053/whats-the-meaning-of-signal-strength-colors-in-battery-usage-screens) - **Charging** seems to be clear (green when charged, black when discharged) - **Screen on** is also OK (blue when lit on, black otherwise) - **Wi-Fi** may be similarly indicates the On/Off state of the function - **Awake** is a mistery for me I can not see any correlation between the graph and the On/Off state of the phone - Finally What does the **GPS on** line exactly indicate?
I have some GPS problem and try to report it. I need to know whether this line indicates the On/Off state of the GPS module or the positioned/lost position state. On my screen it is almost totally black however the module was switched on a day before. There are two or three momentary blue ticks. What do they indicate anyway?<issue_comment>username_1: Enabling GPS and using GPS are two different things, when you enable the use of GPS on the menu/toggle, you are just allowing the use of GPS, that dose no mean you acutely using it, when you see in the graph the little blue lines, that means that some application tried/used the GPS and get the exact location (e.g google now).
starting with Android 4.4 you can check which application used the GPS and when under the App permission menu.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: When the screen is off and no apps are running in the background (e.g. to check email), your device goes into a low-power state called *sleep*. In this mode, the CPU runs more slowly (or maybe the main CPU is turned off and a smaller, more efficient one takes over) to save power.
The **Awake** line in the battery chart shows when the device is not asleep: that is, it shows blue when the screen is on or when an app is running in the background. Depending on what kind of background apps you use, you might see brief ticks every 15 minutes or every hour, where the device woke up to perform some scheduled task. If there are long blue segments even when the screen is off, then some buggy app is keeping your device awake. You can investigate which with a tool such as Greenify or Wakelock Detector, and if an app is keeping the device awake, you should report this to the developer.
The **GPS on** line indicates when the GPS receiver is powered on. This happens whenever an app requests a precise location, and it'll show blue regardless of whether the GPS receiver has calculated a position or not. A brief tick means the GPS was turned on and then turned off as soon as it calculated a position. This is used by Google Play Services' geofencing functionality, by Google Location Sharing, Google Now, and other similar apps that don't track you all the time but want to *sample* your location occasionally.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/08 | 632 | 2,626 | <issue_start>username_0: I've had a Nexus 7 2012 and in the tiny manual there was an indication on where exactly I should touch my phone on it to get NFC communication - near the "e" in the back. That worked great, as I know the NFC area on my Nexus 4 is somewhat in it's middle, but... In a big device like a tablet that's not a guarantee.
However, I have trouble doing the same in the Nexus 7 II. I touch my phone's back to its back but the connection is bad, it comes and goes before I can actually beam stuff... I've tried touching the phone in several different places but didn't get better results.
Where's exactly the NFC touching point on the Nexus 7 II / Nexus 7 2013?<issue_comment>username_1: Enabling GPS and using GPS are two different things, when you enable the use of GPS on the menu/toggle, you are just allowing the use of GPS, that dose no mean you acutely using it, when you see in the graph the little blue lines, that means that some application tried/used the GPS and get the exact location (e.g google now).
starting with Android 4.4 you can check which application used the GPS and when under the App permission menu.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: When the screen is off and no apps are running in the background (e.g. to check email), your device goes into a low-power state called *sleep*. In this mode, the CPU runs more slowly (or maybe the main CPU is turned off and a smaller, more efficient one takes over) to save power.
The **Awake** line in the battery chart shows when the device is not asleep: that is, it shows blue when the screen is on or when an app is running in the background. Depending on what kind of background apps you use, you might see brief ticks every 15 minutes or every hour, where the device woke up to perform some scheduled task. If there are long blue segments even when the screen is off, then some buggy app is keeping your device awake. You can investigate which with a tool such as Greenify or Wakelock Detector, and if an app is keeping the device awake, you should report this to the developer.
The **GPS on** line indicates when the GPS receiver is powered on. This happens whenever an app requests a precise location, and it'll show blue regardless of whether the GPS receiver has calculated a position or not. A brief tick means the GPS was turned on and then turned off as soon as it calculated a position. This is used by Google Play Services' geofencing functionality, by Google Location Sharing, Google Now, and other similar apps that don't track you all the time but want to *sample* your location occasionally.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/09 | 155 | 632 | <issue_start>username_0: I just had a software upgrade on my Samsung Galaxy S3 phone. The Android version is 4.3.
How do I update the owner information on the locked screen?
There is no option under "security" in the setting.<issue_comment>username_1: Settings > Lock Screen > Lock Screen Widgets > Personal Message/Personal Information.
That should be what you're looking for if I understand correctly.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: From SM: Go to Settings → My Device → Home Screen Mode and select "Standard Mode", then hit "Apply".
Next, go to Settings → My device → Lock screen. All will be active now.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/09 | 728 | 2,889 | <issue_start>username_0: I am Using Sony Xperia Tipo Dual, which is Dual Sim Smartphone, but When i use internet from SIM 1 using Network Mode = GSM only or WCDMA/ GSM the another SIM's says NO NETWORK. When i deactivate my Internet i receive message's from my Network operator that you got missed calls from these numbers. GSMArena says My phone is no dual stand-by.<issue_comment>username_1: Dual Sim standby : If you are talking in `Sim A` when someone calls to `Sim B` then they will hear `Sim B` is not reachable. You wont get prompted
Dual Sim Active : If you are talking in `Sim A` when someone calls to `Sim B` then they will hear your call is on waiting. You will get prompted and you can place the current call in hold and answer the new call.
But you should be able to receive call or make calls on both sim when you use internet.
GSM arena confirms Xperia Tipo is no dual standby meaning when you are using one sim to make phone call/ using data the other sim gets off. However, unlike many dual sim phones, in Xperia Tipo both the sim slot supports 3g sim.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: There are actually three types of dual SIM phones.
* Dual SIM Standby (DSS): Only one SIM can be used at a time, 1 radio chip. The phone has single IMEI number.
* Dual SIM Dual Standby (DSDS): Two SIMs can be used at a time, but if one opens a call or data connection, the other is offline. The phone has two different IMEI numbers.
* Dual SIM Active (or sometimes Dual SIM Dual Active) (DSA/DSDA): Two SIMs can be used at a time, 2 radio chips. This enables both SIMs to open calls and/or data connection. The phone has two different IMEI numbers.
Since your phone is mentioned as "No dual standby", it means it's a DSS-phone, which allows only one open connection at a time.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I think the selected answer does a good job of expressing the limitations/advantages of each type of dual sim you might encounter so I instead would like to suggest a work around so you don't miss calls when the one sim is in use and the other becomes inactive.
If you setup call forwarding for each number when you're unreachable so that number 1 forwards to number 2 and number 2 forwards to number 1. Now setup both numbers with call waiting. You now shouldn't miss a call when on the other line and you should be alerted when you have incoming calls waiting whether redirected or not.
A downside is that you'll get charged by your carrier for incoming routed calls. It's also worth noting that if one sim is roaming you may be charged at roaming rates for incoming re-routed calls.
What happens when phone is off and therefore both sims are unreachable? I don't know, I'd hope/expect the networks could detect such an occurrence and not allow an infinite redirect. Maybe someone here knows and can chime in?
Hope this helps
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/09 | 513 | 2,024 | <issue_start>username_0: Is it possible to set an Event using Llama, to repeat each hour that switches on the 3G connection, syncs data and then turns off the 3G connection again.
I would like to use this during work hours to check email etc without having to complete the task manually throughout the day.<issue_comment>username_1: As Izzy pointed out in the comments, Greenify might be what you are looking for. It includes an option (I suspect that this is only available for paid version users) to consolidate all app's sync actions. If several apps have sync tasks, Greenify will "collect" all those tasks and then wake the phone periodically and run all those tasks at once. This is exactly what you are looking for, no?
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I programmed Llama to do exactly that.
You'll need two events:
* 3G auto on
* 3G auto off
and one Llama variable:
* auto3G
**Event 1 (3G auto on)**
* when airplane mode is disabled *[prevents the system to work if airplane mode is enabled]*
* when mobile data is not connected *[this ensures there will always be a break of 60 minutes after each (manual) data or wifi connection]*
* when your phone disconnects from any wifi network *[same as above]*
* when variable 'auto3G' **does not** have a value of 1 *[new variables don't have values; this also ensures that data connections are not interrupted when activated manually]*
* delay for 60 minutes *[change this to your needs, e.g. 15 minutes]*
* enable mobile data
* set Llama variable 'auto3G' to 1 *[so the system knows data connection was activated automatically]*
**Event 2 (3G auto off)**
* when mobile data has connected *[lets te system wait until data connection is established]*
* when 'auto3G' has a value of 1 *[only if data connection was activated automatically]*
* delay for 45 seconds *[change this to your needs and speed of synchronization]*
* disable mobile data
* set Llama variable 'auto3G' to 0 *[system reset]*
this should cover your needs ;)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/05/09 | 591 | 2,299 | <issue_start>username_0: I found no backspace button to edit the number once inserted in keypad during call.
I found this when I called my mobile operator customer care service which uses DMT, and suddenly the customer care executive asked me to tell my Sim Message Center Number which I thought to find by typing `*#*#4636#*#*`.
How to delete the number.
My phone is Nexus 5.<issue_comment>username_1: Before you place a call there is a backspace symbol to the right of the numbers that you've entered that you can use to delete any of the numbers that you've already entered.
However, once you've actually rung a number and started a call, the backspace disappears and you can't delete numbers (as in your screenshot in the question).
The reason for this is that while you're making a call the numbers that you type in are *instantly* transmitted down the phone line as [DTMF](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dual-tone_multi-frequency_signaling) (or touch-tone) signals so that you can navigate through voicemail menus, phone menu trees (eg "*press 1 for billing, press 2 for complaints...*"), dial extension numbers, etc.
You can't delete a dial tone that's *already* been transmitted. This is the same as while you're in the middle of one phone call you can't just type numbers into the dialler and start a totally different phone call. So the [dialer code](https://android.stackexchange.com/tags/dialer-codes/info) that you typed in to try to show your SIM message number wouldn't work because the numbers and symbols would have been transmitted down the phone line as beeps while you typed them (possibly annoying the person on the other end) instead of being used as a "service code" instruction by the phone.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I found a workaround. By clicking new call button, I am able to type new number and execute service codes.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: very simple guys.
while you are on call you should close all background apps including call and later reopen the call,and now check your dail pad it will be fresh
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/09 | 374 | 1,470 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm Using Sony Xperia P with Android 4.1.2. Can anyone tell what's this icon (one with small T) to the left of battery bar? Is it any application based?
<issue_comment>username_1: That symbol isn't Android-specific: it's the symbol for a hearing aid induction loop. Some landline telephones have an induction loop that transmits the phone audio directly to the hearing aid, so that hearing aid users can hear the phone call better than they would otherwise. The T stands for "telephone": because the induction loop system originated on landline phones, using the facility requires switching the hearing aid to "telephone mode", usually by flipping a physical switch to a position marked with a T.
It seems your phone has the same facility. The fact the icon is on the right with the "system" icons, instead of on the left with the notifications, shows that it's a part of the OS, not an app. I can't say for sure as I don't have your phone, but I expect you can turn it off in the device's accessibility settings.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: This symbol was frustrating me,
on my phone I managed to turn it off with this setting
* Settings --> Call --> Accessibility --> Hearing aids (turn off)
I have no idea how it got turned on in my phone, probably some sort of elaborate 'pocket dialing'.
(Android version 6.0.1 - Marshmallow)
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/09 | 942 | 3,601 | <issue_start>username_0: I just installed Android Studio. How do I get into root shell on my phone? Or do I have to download ADB separately?<issue_comment>username_1: Android Studio does not contain ADB, you need Android SDK / Android SDK platform tools for it (it is installed on first run of Android Studio).
If you don't want to use Android studio, just download standalone [Platform tools](https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools) and extract to some folder.
ADB is by default located in `sdk\platform-tools`:
`%USERPROFILE%\AppData\Local\Android\sdk\platform-tools\adb.exe`
`C:\Users\\AppData\Local\Android\sdk\platform-tools\adb.exe`.
It's possible to add to PATH in Windows and use Terminal inside Android Studio only by command: `adb shell` and after use `su` get root shell.
1. Locate the SDK platform tools folder (e.g. `%USERPROFILE%\AppData\Local\Android\sdk\platform-tools\`)
2. Open *Enviroment Variables* in Windows (See <http://www.computerhope.com/issues/ch000549.htm>)
3. Add the platform tools path (e.g. `%USERPROFILE%\AppData\Local\Android\sdk\platform-tools\`) to the PATH variable
4. (optional) Reopen Android Studio
5. Use Terminal with `adb shell` command
When you don't want to use it inside Android studio, you can use it just in command line / terminal by: `C:\Users\\AppData\Local\Android\sdk\platform-tools\adb.exe`
Upvotes: 7 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: **WINDOWS:** In the current version of Android Studio, ADB.exe is located in `%USERPROFILE%\AppData\Local\Android\sdk\platform-tools\`. Earlier versions of Android Studio have it in `%LOCALDATA%\Android\sdk\platform-tools` instead.
**MAC:** Find the ADB executable in `~/Library/Android/sdk/platform-tools`.
**To open the ADB shell:** Ensure Android Studio is installed. In the command line interface (CLI) for your platform -- Command Prompt for Windows or Terminal for Mac -- navigate to the location of the ADB executable as described above (you can copy/paste the strings as shown and don't need to type in your actual username) and do the following:
1. Type `adb devices` and press Enter.
2. Locate the name of your device in the list.
3. Type `adb -s XXXX shell` and press Enter, replacing XXXX with the name of your device from the previous step.
Upvotes: 7 <issue_comment>username_3: On a Mac Android Studio installs adb there:
```
/Users//Library/Android/sdk/platform-tools
```
To use it in your shell, you can add it to your .profile file:
```
export PATH=/Users//Library/Android/sdk/platform-tools:$PATH
```
Please open a fresh terminal window after you did that, or load the changes by typing this in your terminal:
```
source ~/.profile
```
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: Once you have Android Studio set up make sure you can connect to an emulator or a device where it will be listed in the AVD (Android Virtual Devices). If a physical device is connected confirm that debugging mode is enabled and access is allowed to Android Studio. A separate ADB is not needed as all the build tools are part of the IDE.
Now you are ready to access your device's shell!
1. Access the terminal at the bottom of the IDE by selecting the *Terminal* button.
2. In the terminal issue `adb devices`. This will list the all devices currently connected to Android Studio. Find and use your device's name for step 3.
3. Now issue `adb -s shell`. Now you are in your device's shell.
On a side note, if you want to access the shell of an *emulator* with root access installed from Android Studio, issue a `adb -s root` before accessing the shell.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/05/10 | 854 | 3,197 | <issue_start>username_0: For some reason, the folder that once allowed me to access all my recordings using the default Sound Recorder app appears empty in windows even though the files are still there according to ES File Explorer. My phone is not rooted.
(Similarly, some files in my Downloads folder are not visible from Windows.)
I've also begun having an issue where deleting folders in the "Music" directory gives an error "cannot delete \_\_\_\_\_ the storage is write-protected.", but I don't know if this is related. I really need these recordings without having to "share" every single one of them individually in ES File Explorer.
What is going on?<issue_comment>username_1: Being aware it is not a full-fledged solution but rather a workaround (it's still unclear what's causing the underlying issue), this answer sums up what we figured being a work-around at least:
As the files/directories don't show up the usual way via "sharing the SDCard", they can still be accessed by other means. One example is using ADB: using `adb pull` files can be transferred from the device to the computer, and with `adb push` in the other direction. Examples:
* `adb pull /sdcard/Sounds/ E:\audio\phone` would take the entire folder `/sdcard/Sounds` and save it as `E:\audio\phone` on the computer
* `adb push E:\audio\phone /sdcard/Sounds/` for the opposite
The culprit: types of "source" and "target" must match. If "source" is a file, "target" must be a file as well: `adb pull /sdcard/Sounds/some.mp3 E:\audio\phone` would fail as the source is a file and the target a directory.
Other draw-backs can be worked around as well: if you prefer a graphical solution over tinkering with the command line, there are several good GUIs available, e.g.
* [QtADB](http://qtadb.wordpress.com/)
* [Droid Explorer](https://github.com/camalot/droidexplorer) (by our member [<NAME>](https://android.stackexchange.com/users/1951/ryan-conrad))
And several more. As a side-effect of installing ADB, you've got a powerful tool ready which will certainly help you with many other things!
For getting ADB to work without installing the full SDK, please refer to [Is there a minimal installation of ADB?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/42474/16575) More ADB related information can be found via our [adb](/questions/tagged/adb "show questions tagged 'adb'") tag and [its tag-wiki](https://android.stackexchange.com/tags/adb/info).
Alternatives include several "WiFi file managers", which are too many to be listed here. So if you rather want a "simple app installed" on your Android device, and then do everything with your browser, you might wish to take a look at the following lists:
* [Manage your Android Device from your Computer](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists.php?topic=cat;id=187)
* [FTP Server](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists.php?topic=cat;id=111)
* [Various File Servers](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists.php?topic=cat;id=112)
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: An alternative I found after the fact is to use ES File Explorer or something of the like to move the files into a different folder. They're visible to windows in the new folder.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/10 | 930 | 3,341 | <issue_start>username_0: I've got a Samsung GT-I9505 phone with Google Edition Rom installed. As my phone comes with 16Gb internal storage, I bought a 32Gb microSD. However, the phone still uses emulated SD card to store all data.
I looked through the filesystem and found two places which might be of interest:
>
> symlink: /sdcard -> /storage/emulated/legacy
>
> symlink: /storage/sdcard0 -> /storage/emulated/legacy
>
>
>
My actual SD card, however, is at `/storage/extSdCard`
As far as I get it, apps use the first symlink to access SD card. I tried to use terminal emulator with root permissions to make these symlinks point to the right direction, however, it says that the filesystem is read-only.
This is where I got stuck and ask for your help to make my phone use the right SD card.<issue_comment>username_1: Being aware it is not a full-fledged solution but rather a workaround (it's still unclear what's causing the underlying issue), this answer sums up what we figured being a work-around at least:
As the files/directories don't show up the usual way via "sharing the SDCard", they can still be accessed by other means. One example is using ADB: using `adb pull` files can be transferred from the device to the computer, and with `adb push` in the other direction. Examples:
* `adb pull /sdcard/Sounds/ E:\audio\phone` would take the entire folder `/sdcard/Sounds` and save it as `E:\audio\phone` on the computer
* `adb push E:\audio\phone /sdcard/Sounds/` for the opposite
The culprit: types of "source" and "target" must match. If "source" is a file, "target" must be a file as well: `adb pull /sdcard/Sounds/some.mp3 E:\audio\phone` would fail as the source is a file and the target a directory.
Other draw-backs can be worked around as well: if you prefer a graphical solution over tinkering with the command line, there are several good GUIs available, e.g.
* [QtADB](http://qtadb.wordpress.com/)
* [Droid Explorer](https://github.com/camalot/droidexplorer) (by our member [<NAME>](https://android.stackexchange.com/users/1951/ryan-conrad))
And several more. As a side-effect of installing ADB, you've got a powerful tool ready which will certainly help you with many other things!
For getting ADB to work without installing the full SDK, please refer to [Is there a minimal installation of ADB?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/42474/16575) More ADB related information can be found via our [adb](/questions/tagged/adb "show questions tagged 'adb'") tag and [its tag-wiki](https://android.stackexchange.com/tags/adb/info).
Alternatives include several "WiFi file managers", which are too many to be listed here. So if you rather want a "simple app installed" on your Android device, and then do everything with your browser, you might wish to take a look at the following lists:
* [Manage your Android Device from your Computer](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists.php?topic=cat;id=187)
* [FTP Server](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists.php?topic=cat;id=111)
* [Various File Servers](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists.php?topic=cat;id=112)
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: An alternative I found after the fact is to use ES File Explorer or something of the like to move the files into a different folder. They're visible to windows in the new folder.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/10 | 366 | 1,401 | <issue_start>username_0: There are several different versions of Android ROMs on the Internet.
I found that no one is better than Nexus Android which is from Google.
There is a webpage on Google hosting every version of Nexus Android.
<https://developers.google.com/android/nexus/images>
Is it possible to flash Nexus images into other tablets like ASUS Transformer or Samsung Galaxy?<issue_comment>username_1: No. ROMs are always device specific. Reasons are proprietary drivers for specific hardware components.
For more details, you might wish to follow up to the [rom](/questions/tagged/rom "show questions tagged 'rom'") [tag-wiki](https://android.stackexchange.com/tags/rom/info), [rom-flashing](/questions/tagged/rom-flashing "show questions tagged 'rom-flashing'") [tag-wiki](https://android.stackexchange.com/tags/rom-flashing/info), and the sites/pages linked from there, e.g. [Is there an official Android “Google” ROM?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/15717/16575)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The best answer for this question is you try flashing Nexus Roms on a old phone that you don't use.We cannot say that it cannot be possible without doing it practically.
IMPORTANT- please note that the old phone should be at least of 5.0 inch screen and the current Android running version should be Lollipop or above.
Please try it and reply me
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/05/10 | 168 | 651 | <issue_start>username_0: How do I upload images from my photo gallery to my Snapchat story? I have heard of the Xposed module Snapshare but I don't fancy rooting my phone permanently.
What I want to do is, say if I downloaded an image from [APOD](http://apod.nasa.gov/apod/astropix.html), I would like to add that to my story.<issue_comment>username_1: Snapchat for android has been updated with the ability to upload screenshots to chats, my story etc.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Once you finish editing your Snap, you are taken to a screen where you can choose the recipients of your Snap. My Story is on the top of the list.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/10 | 883 | 3,528 | <issue_start>username_0: I have started developing on a windows machine, I use the ADT with Eclipse, my SDK is updated with all the possible Android APIs, ie, (1.6-4.4). The windows machine is pretty slow so lately I got a Mac (Mavericks), so I am confused between ADT for mac and windows.
Is the APIs updated with the SDK work with mac(can i copy and paste the version images to mac sdk from the windows sdk)? or should I update the SDK (APIs) for mac?
thank you for any suggestion!<issue_comment>username_1: Some parts of the SDK are the same between Windows, Linux, and Mac, and some are not.
The developer tools, such as `adb`, `fastboot`, and `hprof`, are native binaries so they're different for each OS. The emulator too is different for each OS.
The Android system images for the emulator are the same between the different host OSes, so you don't need to download these again.
The `android.jar` files containing the Android framework library itself are also the same between the different host OSes. It has to be this way because the JAR files are compiled into your app.
If you're not sure what to update, it's probably best to just start a fresh installation of ADT. That way you're sure to end up with a working version, and there's no risk of failing to update something you should have, or mimatched versions. It might seem that you're wasting time by downloading some of the same things again, but at least you'll be able to trust your tools. If you try and Frankenstein your installation to save downloading, then even if you manage to do it right, you'll suspect it's broken every time you have an unusual bug, and you'll waste more time in the long run.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I know its a late reply but here is the answer.
Some parts of the **SDK are same except the SDK manager AVD manager ADB etc**.
all the system images jar are common
Remember Java is a platform independent language.
In real life, I use the **same SDK library for Windows, Mac and Linux**.
The files are kind of intact for Windows and Linux. But for mac, you have to download some other files too.
And ya, you don't have to copy-paste. Just share via a network. That the best so that both copies will be same. download New version of android in Linux will reflect that in Windows.
I use the same SDK for:
>
> 1. Android Studio Windows
> 2. Android Studio Linux
> 3. Android Studio Mac
> 4. Xamarin Studio in Windows
> 5. Visual Studio in Windows (Xamarin development)
> 6. Xamarin Studio in Mac
>
>
>
All works cool. Only thing is you have to give **write access for both Linux and Mac users**.
Thank you!
Please comment for any doubts.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: The list of folders that you can share between Linux & Windows file system as they are the same files for Android SDK are below. You can just copy & paste these folders between any OS you use:
**add-ons,
docs,
extras,
ndk-bundle,
platforms,
skins,
sources,
system-images,
tools**
Apparently, you will need to download the below folders i.e. SDK Tools differently for each OS, as they are platform dependent tools which rely upon OS like Linux, Windows & Mac OS differently:
**build-tools,
platform-tools**
These two folders don't eat up much of a download bandwidth. So you can easily download it as per the OS you are working on.
I have tested and tried this successfully so far and all worked well with full support. This will save a lot of disk space as well as download bandwidth & time for sure!
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/11 | 863 | 2,761 | <issue_start>username_0: As soon as I connect a USB modem to android device, system grabs ttyACM0 and ttyACM1 in an attempt to open connection. As a result, the ports are blocked and can not be opened by other services. How, if possible, can I disable RIL on android to avoid having it block ttyACM0 and ttyACM1 as soon as modem is plugged in? Is it doable without having to rebuild Android?
I have tried making following changes in init.rc, as well as deleting ril-deamon service entry.
```
setprop ro.radio.noril yes
setprop hw.nophone true
```<issue_comment>username_1: The consequences of disabling the RIL daemon (**rild**) is hardware dependent. Because RIL is getting more and more involved in all aspects of Radio related items, including WiFi. The easiest way to stop RIL is by killing *rild*. But you need to have a rooted device to do this. Open a command shell and get root prompt (**#**).
```
# kill -9 `pidof rild`
```
You can then check the current status with:
```
# getprop |grep init.svc.ril
...
[init.svc.ril-daemon]: [stopped]
[init.svc.ril-qmi]: [stopped]
```
To restart *rild* you have to point it to the right device and library files. You can find what these are with:
```
# getprop | grep rild.lib
...
[rild.libargs]: [-d /dev/smd0]
[rild.libpath]: [/system/lib/libril-qc-qmi-1.so]
```
Then restart with\*:
```
# rild -l /system/lib/libril-qc-qmi-1.so -- -d /dev/smd0
```
\* **PS.** I haven't actually tried this line, so feel free to edit this post. It's possible you also need to supply the correct *SE* context to *SU* as well...
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Killing the daemon is not the correct way although it would kill the service but you won't be able to access it again.
Type `stop service rild` in `adb shell` and it would work again for other services properly. You can check by typing `ps` if rild process is there or not. Just worked on this a few days back.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: 1. how to stop rild
===================
note: tested on android 4.4
try1
----
```
kill -9 `pidof rild`
```
it'll auto start a new rild
try2
----
```
stop service rild
```
not work for me.
try3
----
```
stop ril-daemon
```
this worked, found it from `/etc/init.rc`:
```
on property:ril.reset.rild=1
stop ril-daemon
start ril-daemon
setprop ril.reset.rild 0
```
//so `setprop ril.reset.rild 1` may restart rild too.
about service name
------------------
```
service ril-daemon /system/bin/rild ...
```
found such line in `init.rc`, maybe this define the service name referred in `try3`
2. answer the question
======================
maybe you can imitate config in `try3`, add this config line.
```
on property:ro.radio.noril=yes
stop ril-daemon
```
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/05/11 | 664 | 2,306 | <issue_start>username_0: The answer to [this question](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/12835/can-nomedia-exclude-file-type) is not valid, because embedding the album art inside the media files does not always work, as I outlined in [this question](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/63650/how-do-i-change-incorrect-album-art-on-the-default-music-player-of-the-samsung-g).
So basically, I want the hundreds of album art images to stop showing up in my gallery. I can't use `.nomedia` because that would invalidate any music in the same directory. Are there any other options?<issue_comment>username_1: rename the album cover to "folder.jpg", and it will be skipped. You can save the rest of the album art in a nested folder with ".nomedia" inside it.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I have two Gists that can be used to either system hide every "Folder.jpg" or "AlbumArt.jpg" so that they are not uploaded to my phone:
<https://gist.github.com/username_2/d0524f901994ecb5e46d>
Or remove that file in every subdirectory:
<https://gist.github.com/username_2/8c9e3b524284ac766b63>
I actually use Windows Media Player for all of my syncing now instead of copying my entire music library, and I've begun to embed 500x500 album art images into all of my MP3s. I would suggest this for anyone else who is uploading album art to his or her phone.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: rename the file to folder.jpg and/or albumart.jpg (not sure about this one. please check) and it should be skipped.
other option is to use .nomedia file. If you use a music player that as an option to ignore .nomedia, you can have a .nomedia file in your music folder and the album art wont appear in gallery.
third option is to use embedded artwork.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Simple, just use poweramp as suggested, best music player on Android in my opinion anyway, and have your music in a folder with a .nomedia folder in it easy peasy.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: I also have a gist located here: <https://gist.github.com/essboyer/3f84afc9595b068869fb0baf1e2a51b5>
Note that this code will DELETE any image that is not `folder.jpg`. It will attempt to rename a few common misnamed folder filenames, and you can always easily add your own!
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/11 | 407 | 1,540 | <issue_start>username_0: As per screenshot below, I have been unable to proceed with the CyanogenMod Installer (Windows).
This is what I get:
***Having internet troubles? Please check your network connection.***
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TZ0iI.png)
Screenshot (click image for large variant)
I've tried adding extra inbound and outbound exceptions for Cyanogen Mod Installer (`%USERPROFILE%\AppData\Local\Temp\CMInstaller.exe`) in the Windows Firewall (accessible from Control Panel), but it didn't help.
I am not behind a proxy. And there's nothing wrong with my Internet connection : I'm accessing all other online content.
I'm using Win8x64, and trying to install CM on my Samsung S3 GT-i9300.
Has anyone encountered the same issue?
\*UPDATE: I tried running the msi installer via an admin command prompt, didn't make any difference.<issue_comment>username_1: Download the CMInstaller.msi
Extract the CMIntaller.msi with 7zip
Rename the setup to setup.exe
Right Click on the setup.exe -> Run as Administrator
And it's running without a problem.
I'm on Windows 8.1 x64
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Because this question is in the active category, I'll give an updated answer.
CyanogenMod was discontinued on December 27th, 2016. Because of this, their webserver also went down, which would cause the issue this question asked. There is no solution, and the installer is forever broken. You can manually install the ROM or use a different custom ROM.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/05/11 | 542 | 1,777 | <issue_start>username_0: My Nexus 10 boots forever. I did (according to the cm-wiki):
1. Root it
2. Flash Clockworkmod-Recovery with fastboot
3. Flash CM11 with sideload
4. Flash Boot.img with fastboot
Now my Nexus 10 is stuck at the boot animation.
Any ideas?
---
I tried to `wipe dalvik cache` in advanced Menu in cwm. When I afterwards choose "show log" I get the following error:
`mount: mounting /dev/block/platform/dw_mmc.0/by-name/userdata on /data failed: Invalid arguemnt
W:failed to mount /dev/block/platform/dw_mmc.0/by-name/userdata (File exists)`
May theres ist the problem?
---
I flashed stock rom, and this works like a charm. Then I tried to install cm again and twrp. But, twrp tells me, that /data can't be mounted. I tried in twrp (Advanced, Terminal Command):
`# mount /data
mount: mounting /dev/block/mmcblk0p9 on /data failed: Invalid argument`<issue_comment>username_1: Try to enter cwm recovery and do a full wipe factory reset. Wipe both dalvik cache under advanced section and cache.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I found a solution. I had to format the partition /dev/block/mmcblk0p9 by hand (with twrp).
I can't remember the command exactly - but more or less it was:
`mkfs -t ext4 /dev/block/mmcblk0p9`
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Boot into recovery and get a shell (e.g. `adb shell` on the PC connected via USB). Then format the userdata partition:
```
mke2fs -t ext4 /dev/block/platform/dw_mmc.0/by-name/userdata
```
Afterwards, simply reboot and it should work fine.
The reason why this is necessary is simply (thanks to @utkanos in #cyanogenmod for explaining it): When unlocking the bootloader using `fastboot oem unlock` it erases all data but doesn't create a proper filesystem.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/05/11 | 724 | 3,165 | <issue_start>username_0: When I turn down the brightness of the screen on a Samsung Galaxy Mega am I lowering power consumption or increasing the opacity of the screen?<issue_comment>username_1: Lowering screen brightness is one of the energy-saving tips always coming out on top. That's not even specific to your *Samsung Galaxy Mega*, but valid for all devices. For other tips (and more details), see e.g. [What can I do to increase battery life on my Android device?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/476/16575#27742)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I'm going to answer generally, since the same is true of any smartphone. There are broadly two kinds of colour screen used on mobile devices (smartphones, tablets, wearables, and handheld game consoles): LCDs, and OLEDs.
LCD screens
===========
These change their opacity according to an electrical signal. But to see that change in opacity, they need a source of illumination: a backlight. In early PDAs and the first few generations of Android phones, CFLs (which are basically small fluorescent tubes) were used for backlights, but these days many LCD screens are lit by white LEDs. Either way, the brightness slider controls how bright the backlight is by varying the voltage to it, so it directly affects power consumption, just like a dimmer control on a lamp.
It used to be the case that LCDs used a lot more power to be opaque, so displaying a black screen drew more power than displaying a white screen. However, manufacturing techniques and densities changed a few years ago, and the difference is negligible these days.
OLED screens
============
OLEDs are a new kind of LED. They can be a lot smaller than traditional semiconductor LEDs: small enough for each pixel to be a separate LED. There's no need for a separate backlight. Because of this, the brightness slider multiplies the brightness of every pixel separately. Decreasing the brightness setting doesn't decrease power consumption directly. The power consumption of the screen depends on how bright is the actual image it's displaying. In general, decreasing the brightness slider will tend to decrease power consumption, because the screen is darker overall, but a white screen on minimum brightness will draw more power than a black screen on maximum brightness.
Some phones with OLED screens have software that adjusts the brightness dynamically, instead of simply multiplying the screen colours by a constant value. This increases the brightness of the bright colours when more of the screen is dark, and decreases the brightness when more of the screen is bright, so the overall brightness looks the same. This can help save power: when you've adjusted the brightness so darks are clear in your environment, there's no point in the phone burning more power to make the brights look brighter than you need. On Samsung phones with OLED screens, you can find this in the **Display** settings, labelled **Auto adjust screen tone**.
Summary
=======
Whatever type of display technology your phone uses, decreasing the brightness control can use less power, but for different reasons in each case.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2014/05/12 | 491 | 1,834 | <issue_start>username_0: I've hidden contact in hangouts' dialog for opening new hangout, by clicking on one of icons of most frequent contacts, then in "Contact options"->"Hide contact":
Now I wonder how to "unhide" it?
(Notes: Currently using "Hangouts Version 2.1.100 (1151589-30)")<issue_comment>username_1: If you have the contact in your contact lists then just type the name in search bar.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Problem solved with **Hangouts version 2.1.223**.
In "settings" we now have an option do "unhide" contacts.
Thanks Google.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: If you have hidden any contact and now want to unhide, just see at the top, next to notification bar, you will find a dotted sqaure box which contain folders liek "My Accounts, Search, Map etc". Now see at the bottom, you will find option of more. Click on it. Now there you will find "Hangout" folder. Click on it. Once you click it, a handout page will get opened. Now at the extreme left, you will find "Menu, then at bottom you will find Contact, Conversation, Phone Calls, More". Click on "More". After that at the bottom, you would find "Settings option". Now in that you will find A box like "Share your status" and all. Again go at bottom, you will find "Hidden Contact". Go on it and you will find hidden contacts and now you can unhide whom you want. All the best.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Go to settings page and select the account where you want to unhide the contact. Scroll down, you will find the hidden contacts option.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_5: *On Hangout version 8.0.11.*
Hidden contact is in the **Archived Conversations**.
You can find archive on your left screen - Hamburger menu.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/05/12 | 825 | 2,855 | <issue_start>username_0: I bought an LG Optimus One phone a long time ago. The phone came with a USB 2.0 cable + wall adapter.
3 months ago, I bought a Galaxy Note 3. The phone came with a USB 3.0 cable + wall adapter. The wall adapter stopped working, however the 3.0 cable still works. (When I connect my Note 3 to the computer using the 3.0 cable, it works. But when I try charging my Note 3 using a wall outlet, it doesn't work).
My question is:
Since the wall adapter which came with my Note 3 stopped working but the 3.0 cable still works, is it okay if I charge my Note 3 with the USB 3.0 cable while the 3.0 cable is plugged into the wall adapter which my LG Optimus One came with?
Note: I didn't try it yet because I was afraid it might ruin the 3.0 cable.<issue_comment>username_1: USB devices are designed to use a wide variety of voltages ranging from 500mA to 1500mA and have been standardized for quite some time. You can generally plug any USB device into any USB cable and into any USB port, and nothing will blow up. Using a more powerful charger should speed up battery charging, while using a less powerful one will just charge slower. A good resource for this topic can be found [here](http://www.extremetech.com/computing/115251-how-usb-charging-works-or-how-to-avoid-blowing-up-your-smartphone).
As noted in that article, the only real concern is when charging an older phone with a newer charger, as the battery might not be able to handle the higher current. In your cause your using an older charger with a new phone, so your all good.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: username_1 gave an [excellent answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/69251/33093), but I'd like to add that it's **NOT** ok to plug use any USB-C cable.
USB-C was created exactly to resolve the kind of issues username_1 describes in his answer -- different chargers supply different currents, and different devices can accept different maximum currents.
The USB-C spec tries to negotiate the highest safe amount of current that the device trying to charge can accept, that the device supplying the power can provide, and that the cable can carry. To know this, the cable has to be intelligent. Several low-grade cables not only don't respect the specification but have faulty wiring, and this has been widely reported since it made nerd news when [a Google engineer fried their Chromebook port using a faulty cable](https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2016/02/google-engineer-finds-usb-type-c-cable-thats-so-bad-it-fried-his-chromebook-pixel/).
See the excellent [USB-C guide here](https://www.reddit.com/r/GooglePixel/wiki/officialguide/usbcinfo) and the [USB-C peripheral test spreadsheet (cables, chargers, etc) here](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vnpEXfo2HCGADdd9G2x9dMDWqENiY2kgBJUu29f_TX8/pubhtml).
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/12 | 559 | 2,010 | <issue_start>username_0: Its come to my understanding that Verizon gets information about how you use your phone reported back to it. Information such as "Amount of data used for Facebook, Snapchat, Netflix" etc. I know Verizon can always see the amount of data I used, but I'd rather keep the specific content/origination of the data private.
A friend told me that I can "root my phone and disable that reporting" but I didn't get all the information. I wanted to ask this community:
1. How to disable reporting back (hopefully without rooting the phone)
2. If rooting is required, what the most effective way of accomplishing all this is?
For some reason, googling around for this issue has given me no information! (I am a bit shocked at that as I figure it'd be a hot topic now-a-days).
FYI - In case you are curious, I do feel how I use data is a private matter and unless a company issues a warrant, should not look at the type of traffic I carry. Its just a principal I live by.
Note - Just in case, I am sure Verizon isn't specifically sniffing my packets. My concern is Verizon seeing things like:
100 Mbs on Facebook
200 Mbs on Snapchat
500 MBs on Netflix
etc
It just feels weird to me that they can see this information.
I'd like to disable that reporting.
Lastly: I'm using a Verizon Samsung Galaxy S4 running KitKat 4.4.2, Kernel vs 3.4.0.<issue_comment>username_1: The most effective way to block this, is by rooting your device, and remove or freeze the offending app. Try *TitaniumBackup*, *AppQuarantine* and *AFWall+*. But the simplest way, may be to try to install a `hosts` file that blocks all bad IP addresses, such as the one provided by [MoaAB](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1916098). You can try that without root, but I doubt it will work on your 4.4.2.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I have the best way to do this, you must be rooted unfortunately.
You need to edit `build.prop` and add this line `ro.config.nocheckin` and put `true`.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/05/12 | 588 | 2,322 | <issue_start>username_0: I added a kernel module to the msm flo kernel. I built android JB from source for my Nexus 7(flo). I flashed the device with the built OS. I can add 3rd party apps for which I have apks or I could add them to the source tree.
But I can't add google apps or anything from the play store. I can't add my google account under settings->add accounts since it doesn't exist. I tried installing google play store by downloading the apk to my machine and installing it with apk. Play store does install, but play store crashes as soon as I click on it.
Is there anyway to fix this issue?
I am using ubuntu 14.04<issue_comment>username_1: There is a lot more to the Google Apps than just downloading and installing the APK. Google's Services framework and apps (a.k.a. GApps) are not part of AOSP which is probably where your source comes from, but they are required for Play Store and other apps to work properly.
Unfortunately GApps is closed-source, so it's not allowed to re-distribute these portions. However, since your Nexus 7 tablet shipped with them, you should be able to easily find all the necessary components in the original image. Alternatively, you should be able to find the GApps package for your specific Android OS version that works on your tablet over at [XDA-Developers](http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-7-2013/development) forums.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You need the GoogleLoginService.apk and GoogleServicesFramework.apk installed in addition to the play store.
You can obtain the needed apks out of the [google apps package cyanogenmod makes available](http://wiki.cyanogenmod.org/w/Google_Apps), or just flash the entire thing.
If you want to do the one-at-a-time method, they also have [a listing of what all the system apks actually do](http://wiki.cyanogenmod.org/w/Barebones) so you can decide if you want them.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: You need to flash the Google Apps package for your device.
Head over to [Goo.im](http://goo.im/gapps). There'll be a guide there on which GApps build to download for a specific Android version.
Flash it through recovery. If you're having lots of FCs with Google apps after this, I'd suggest you reflash your Android build and then GApps immediately after. Don't forget to clear cache.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/12 | 907 | 3,568 | <issue_start>username_0: Our local office provides free public WiFi for phones and tablets, but blocks access in ways that means that some applications (like WhatsApp) are unable to connect.
Is there any way to configure Android so that a certain app (in this case WhatsApp, but could be others) will always use cellular data even though it is connected to a WiFi access point?
Bonus points if it'll only do it for a specific access point, so we can configure it to use cellular data for the office, but at home it'll still go over WiFi.
Currently the only alternative is to either keep WiFi off (which is much slower and eats into data caps) or keep toggling WiFi on and off (which is really quite annoying).
(Free or paid solutions appreciated. Using Android 4.3. Would prefer solutions that don't require root, but if that is the only way, then so be it.)<issue_comment>username_1: Some apps provide solution for your problem.
Try Avast Antivirus. It have a built in firewall which limits the selected apps to use the given data network.
You can select/limit app to use 2G, 3G, Wi-Fi etc.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: The automation App [Tasker](http://tasker.dinglisch.net/) allows for location-specific triggers so that you can disable WiFi completely whenever you are in the local office (see example [here](http://blog.photoframd.com/2011/03/09/android-turn-wifi-on-and-off-automatically-with-tasker/)).
I'm not aware of an option in Android to direct some apps via WiFi and others via mobile, *at the same time*.
You may be able to set a variable to indicate when one or more of the problematic apps is running and combine that with the location-based trigger to disable WiFi only when one of these apps is running *and* you are at the office. However, that would would not be helpful with an app like WhatsApp that is running all the time.
Alternatively, you may set specific time intervals during which you turn the WiFi off at the office so that you can get WhatsApp updates. This approach may have the additional advantage that it limits diversions to limited time windows.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: As far as I know, android won't use cellular data at all when wifi is enabled. On a regular machine I'd create routes for whatsapp to use the celular interface, and have a default route using the wifi interface.
One solutio might be to use a VPN server at home, and connect to that on your phone. If you run OpenVPN op tcp port 443, then you'll probably successfully evade the firewall. The downside: it can eat battery like crazy (at least, it did when I tried).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Use the Android app [Mobiwol](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.netspark.firewall). You can designate each app to use which network. :)
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_5: Yes you can do this. On my phone you go into Connection Settings and in Data Usage you can choose which app to make a "Mobile Data Only" app. 
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: [NetGuard](https://github.com/M66B/NetGuard) and [AdGuard](https://adguard.com/adguard-android/overview.html) will both allow you to accomplish your stated goal. Both apps allow you to specify whether *each* installed app on your Android device can use WiFi, cellular data, or both (try doing that on an iPhone!).
Even more impressively, both NetGuard and AdGuard can help you specify whether or not an app can access the internet when the screen is on, off, or either.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/13 | 1,051 | 3,992 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Samsung Galaxy S2 that I upgraded to 4.4 a couple of days ago. Since upgrading, my battery longevity has dropped a crazy amount. Just this morning, it took about four hours to go from full charge all the way down to about 25%, and that's without much use. Previous to upgrading, I could go for about two days while listening to podcasts and writing emails and general normal use.
I looked in the system settings under the battery usage, and discovered that some "unknown" process was responsible for 50% of my battery use:
I clicked on the process to see if I could kill it, but the option to "force stop" was greyed out:
I tried rebooting, but, near as I can tell, it's still there, eating my battery.
How to I put a stake in the heart of this vampire process and make sure it never returns?
---
Update: More battery madness.
Yesterday, I woke up and my battery was dead, even though it was left in the charger for the night. Took a few rounds of trying to recharge and reboot to get any response, but eventually I got it running again, and this is what I saw in the battery settings:
Looks kind of like Google+ threw a fit and sucked the life out of the battery. Though, actually, I think that's probably a misreporting of events.
Okay, so then, yesterday, I was listening to a podcast, and I hear a pop and then my phone reboots. Again, when it's back on, I check the battery report:
It's pretty normal for the screen to be the biggest battery draw, but I don't see why suddenly the available battery power droped by about half at the time the phone self-booted.
So... I don't really know what to make of any of this. I'm kind of thinking maybe my battery is dying and behaving oddly. But if anyone has any better ideas...?<issue_comment>username_1: Interesting! Never seen a phone that didn't list 'Screen' as biggest drain. I'd try uninstalling apps until it's fixed, my theory being that some cheesy app (spyware?) keeps calling home. Start with the running apps list--anything running that shouldn't be? Got GPS turned off? How much free storage do you have on the phone? If the phone's memory is nearly full it will overwork itself, in my experience, perhaps defragging. If none of that fixes it to your satisfaction then I'd wipe the phone clean and start over. Let us know what you find out!
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: That's very interesting. Have you looked for the "Unknown" app in your Application Manager? That may shed some light on the subject, if it can or can't be found anywhere in there. Other than that, look at some recently downloaded apps, see if they have any weird numbers in the App Manager.
A very puzzling problem indeed.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: If you are rooted, I would recommend downloading [Better Battery Stats](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.asksven.betterbatterystats) (or [Wakelock Detector](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.uzumapps.wakelockdetector)) from the Google Play Store, and finding the name of the 'mad' processes.
If you aren't rooted, I recommend you root as other apps can't access battery stats as of Android OS version 4.4.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: It's understandable that your battery life will decrease when you run 4.4 on an older device like the S2. But that is strange. Try identifying the process like the other users suggested. I would also suggest Greenify, an app that can put processes and apps into automatic hibernation, decreasing their CPU toll.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: Even without root you can run a shell for example with "Material Terminal" and run "top" e.g. running "top -m 10" you can see if there are any apps using a lot of CPU.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/13 | 273 | 1,090 | <issue_start>username_0: I have installed AVG Antivirus Free Edition, but when I go to setting to delete it I can't do it, neither the data, only I can delete the cache.
If I go to google play and to AVG Free edition there are 2 options: open and disable. If I select disable appear "This aplications is a administrator of dispositives and you need desactivate it to unistall".
I downloaded 3º app to unistall, but can't unistall it
How can I delete it? Is a non-root device.
Thanks<issue_comment>username_1: You need to go into `Settings` > `Security` > `Device administrators` and uncheck the box next to the AVG app. You will then be able to uninstall the application normally.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Even if disabled as device admin it may not uninstall - you need to go to avg screen, press the anti theft protected button, then disable/ deactivate, then log out - after that freshly open play store, ie it must not be running in the background, select avg in 'my apps', and you'll see the uninstall button on the avg app details screen.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/13 | 474 | 1,915 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Nexus 4 running stock rom kit kat 4.4.2. There were few instances, in which when the phone goes to sleep, I see the notification light blinking indicating a new email/message, but it doesn't wake up when I press the power button. I have to soft reboot the phone {press the power button for 5 seconds to turn it off, then turn on}to use it again. This happens more frequently on some days, and some times it doesn't happen for weeks.I tried calling the phone from my land line when it is in this state, I could hear it ringing on the landline, but the phone doesn't actually ring. After rebooting, it doesn't even show a missed call. When I reboot it, the phone's battery is substantially less (down by about 10%). It started happening only since 4.3 JB update, it was fine till then.
I tried a full factory reset, and minimal apps, it worked fine. Once I installed all my apps back, this started happening again. I am thinking one of my apps is causing this and it could be an application or a bug in Kit kat/JB itself.
1. Is there any known bug in kitkat 4.4.2 (or >= 4.3 ) or is there any application known to cause this?
2. Is there any way I can look at the logs to see if any specific application is causing this.
3. Force wake up the phone without having to reboot it ?<issue_comment>username_1: You need to go into `Settings` > `Security` > `Device administrators` and uncheck the box next to the AVG app. You will then be able to uninstall the application normally.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Even if disabled as device admin it may not uninstall - you need to go to avg screen, press the anti theft protected button, then disable/ deactivate, then log out - after that freshly open play store, ie it must not be running in the background, select avg in 'my apps', and you'll see the uninstall button on the avg app details screen.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/13 | 524 | 1,861 | <issue_start>username_0: How can I delete downloaded stickers on viber? I downloaded there a few, and the last one I wanted to download was not possible because there was not enough room in my storage space (still isn't). Now, it says every single time when I open my phone,
>
> there is not enough room in the storage space available to complete this action. Please clear some space and try again.
>
>
>
And I am not even downloading anything, it keeps doing it itself. Whatever I do, the window pops up and again, I have to close it. What can I do?<issue_comment>username_1: From the [Viber product page](http://support.viber.com/customer/portal/articles/1362371-viber-sticker-market-for-android#Can%20I%20delete%20sticker%20packages?):
>
> **Can I delete sticker packages?**
>
>
> Once you have downloaded a sticker package, it will remain on your
> device. However, you have the option of disabling sticker packages
> that you do not want displayed in your sticker menu.
>
>
> * Enter the Sticker Market
> * Select the `gear` icon
> * Uncheck the box next to the packages you do not want to displayed in your sticker menu
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Yes, Go to your profile in viber "You"
At the bottom of page, Go to "market sticker"
At the top right corner, you see "settings"
select it, & you can "on/off" your stickers.
It's as simple! :)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Go to sticker market and deselect sticker you don't want. Get a file manager that shows hidden files (the ones starting with a .). Go to viber/media/.stickers folder and delete everything in it. You have just deleted "all" stickers. Open viber and the stickers still selected will automagically download again. It takes a while but they all come back :-)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: As of now THERE IS NO delete option.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/14 | 199 | 824 | <issue_start>username_0: I think I have searched in all the sub-folders for a place to turn on Haptic feedback on my new Galaxy Tab 4?
I know it just barely came out, but for the life of me, I can't find anything remotely close to turning it on.
Using stock Samsung keyboard and SwiftKey. Neither has helped.<issue_comment>username_1: I don't think that the Galaxy Tab 4 does have a vibrator motor, in that case it would be impossible to activate haptic feedback.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Actually, I just purchased a Galaxy Tab 4 and the google keyboard when installed and configured to do so will provide a noticeable haptic feedback. The device does have a vibration motor but I can't find a setting to activate haptic feedback for the built in Samsung softkeys either (back and window change).
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/14 | 242 | 1,026 | <issue_start>username_0: I have to Android devices, a phone and a tablet. I recently upgraded both to Android 4.4.
When I go to Google Play's website using a browser on my computer, and select an app to install, my list of devices shows my tablet, but not my phone. It used to show both.
I can't seem to find any setting to connect my phone to my Google account in such a way as to make my phone appear in the list. How do I make my phone an available option when installing apps from a computer based browser?<issue_comment>username_1: I don't think that the Galaxy Tab 4 does have a vibrator motor, in that case it would be impossible to activate haptic feedback.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Actually, I just purchased a Galaxy Tab 4 and the google keyboard when installed and configured to do so will provide a noticeable haptic feedback. The device does have a vibration motor but I can't find a setting to activate haptic feedback for the built in Samsung softkeys either (back and window change).
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/14 | 179 | 710 | <issue_start>username_0: When I search in Gmail app for files that were attached to emails, Gmail can't find them.
Is there a way to see all of my attachments from Gmail? 3rd-party apps would be acceptable too.<issue_comment>username_1: Gmail attachments (I think) are stored on the server until you download them. When you do they end up in your downloads folder on SD/flash, so you can open the folder with file manager.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: If you search for `has:attachment` within the Gmail app then you should see emails which have attachments.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: you should use the new gmail INBOX + the "has:attachment" and you'll see thumbs of them all
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/05/14 | 404 | 1,740 | <issue_start>username_0: i.e. I want to remove all information, that was backed up from my phone to the Google servers (sync data, etc). How can I do that?<issue_comment>username_1: Go to [Google Dashboard](https://www.google.com/settings/dashboard) and sign in with the same Google account you used on your phone. Click the arrow next to **Android** to see a list of all your devices with backup data. At the bottom is a button, **Delete backup data**. This button deletes the backed-up data from **all** devices. There's no way to delete the data from a specific device.
If you want to delete not only the data backed up using the "Back up my data to Google servers" option, but also other synced data like Gmail, contacts, calendars, Google Docs documents, you'll find them listed in their own sections on the same dashboard page.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Delete Device History
---------------------
To delete the stuff backed up under **Settings** -> **Backup & reset** like saved contacts, the list of installed apps, saved WiFi networks, etc. go to [Device History](https://history.google.com/history/device) and select and delete the backups you want to remove. Or you can use the three-dot menu in the upper-right corner to view more **Delete options** to delete all backups.
Delete Saved App Data
---------------------
Some apps will save data to your Google Drive account. To remove these, go to [Google Drive](http://drive.google.com) and click the settings gear icon in the upper-right. Select **Settings** and then **Manage Apps**. From there you can view the list of connected apps, including ones installed on your phone and disconnect them and/or delete any data stored by them.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/05/15 | 793 | 3,044 | <issue_start>username_0: Let's say I'm playing a game, reading a book, surfing the net or watching a video and I'm getting close to my stop. Is there some way (perhaps an app) that can alert me that it's time to get off?
**Other situations where this app would be useful**
* Dark platforms at night where it's difficult to see where I'm at
* Crowded services where I just can't see out the window reliably
* Travel in a foreign country where signage is in a different script
* Travelling along unfamiliar routes
* Useful for other modes of public transport as well
**How it would work**
I imagine an app like this would allow the user to configure the location of the stop via maps and set the amount of lead time (e.g. I want to be alerted five minutes before we arrive). The app would then monitor progress along the route and also estimate the lead time based on progress so far or some other smart means.
Any ideas?<issue_comment>username_1: Automation apps like [Condi (free)](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=il.co.kix.minitasker) or [Tasker ($2.99)](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.dinglisch.android.taskerm) can allow you to configure rules based on specific criteria. I personally have used Condi and, though it cannot calculate the time it takes to get to a location like Google Maps does, it can display a notification/username_3rt when you are within a certain distance of a point (eg. within 500 meters of your stop) that you can select using Maps. It is also very configurable for other very useful automated behavior.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Ask your railway company. Or your government. Or both.
The Dutch Railways (NS) has an app where you can plan train trips, but also get notifications when you need to check in and out and change trains, and realtime information about delays and schedule changes.
And since all Public Transport data is freely available in my country (and some others), there are other apps that can do the exact same.
So just search for the names of your transportation comnpanies in the Play Store, and see what you find. You may be surprised.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: [IFTTT](http://ifttt.com).
Specifically, with the [IFTTT Android app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ifttt.ifttt). The [Android Location](https://ifttt.com/android_location) channel can trigger when you enter (or exit) an area you define.
Simply use one of the metric ton of possible actions (e.g., Pushover, Pushbullet, SMS, Android Notifications, etc.) with it. (Browse the [recipes that use Android Location](https://ifttt.com/recipes?channel=android_location) for some ideas.)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Apps like this already exist. Try [GPS ALARM](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sandyapps.alarmgps) or [Location Alert](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=igost.presents.locationalert).
It would also be quite easy to write your own if you weren't happy with either of those applications.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/15 | 215 | 801 | <issue_start>username_0: I have installed WhatsApp on my Samsung Galaxy Note Pro previously but uninstalled it a few days later. Now that I want to install it back again, it says the device does not support WhatsApp.
Please advise why am I able to install at 1st and not now?<issue_comment>username_1: Please provide more specific detail. Is the error warning appears on the Play Store or when you try to open WhatsApp? What Galaxy Note Pro do you use?
If you are using Galaxy Note Pro 12.2 WiFi only, based on this [WhatsApp FAQ](http://www.whatsapp.com/faq/android/21166563), your device is unfortunately not supported.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: WhatsApp provides the APK file to install without the Play Store.
The APK can be found here: <http://www.whatsapp.com/android/>
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/15 | 864 | 3,180 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to send some specific files from my linux PC to my android device. I'd like to send it automatically using terminal commands, so there will be no drag and drop files.
I don't know what is the best communication way to send file via wifi. I understand how to send using ftp by downloading 'ftp server' app on my android, but that's not suitable to my work since it needs to open an internet browser on my PC and transfer like a file manager. So I tried using ssh:
```
scp /home/user/picture1.jpg u0_a167@192.168.1.117:/storage/emulated/0
```
but always ended up error:
```
ssh: connect to host 192.168.1.117 port 22: Connection refused
lost connection
```
How to solve this problem? or does anyone have any other recommendation which communication way should I use?<issue_comment>username_1: You can use `scp` if you like, but you first have to install a SSH server on the phone. Android doesn't come with one enabled by default: that would be a security nightmare. There are many to choose from on Google Play.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: If you are on the same wi-fi network as your mobile phone is and you have got the option to use ADB I would recommend using wireless adb.
Setup wireless ADB on your phone and ADB on your PC.
Then just hit
`adb connect`
And when the device is connected you can use
`adb push /path/local/file /path/remote/location/`
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: You have different options here:
* **SCP:** As [Dan already pointed out](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/69429/16575), Android soesn't ship with any SSH server by default. This means, to use SCP as described in your question, you will first have to install an [SSH Server App](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists.php?topic=cat;id=105#group_388) on your device.
* **FTP:** Other than you're assuming in your question, FTP can be scripted. But that might not come as easy as a simple `scp` command. And like with SSH, you first will need to install an [FTP Server App](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists.php?topic=cat;id=111) on your device as well.
**Important note:** Many FTP clients/connections default to ASCII transfer mode. If you want to copy binary (basically: non-text) files like images, audio/video, etc., make sure you're in binary mode (when using the command-line, that can be done by issuing the `bin` command). Otherwise you might get "broken files" on the receiving end.
* **ADB:** This is an option Android even ships with, but by default bound to an USB connection. You'd just need to enable *USB Debugging* in developer settings, connect your device via USB, and then can use commands like `adb push` or `adb pull` to put files on your device or retrieve them from there. As you prefer doing that via WiFi, there are [several apps providing this](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists.php?topic=cat;id=200) as well.
There might be additional possiblities, but the three mentioned above are the most used.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: If you are using Wifi,
Through ESFileExplorer, you can create a FTP Server for your Mac or Unix File System and copy files on the fly.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/15 | 726 | 2,452 | <issue_start>username_0: >
> adb shell dd if=/dev/block/mmcblk0p7 > backup.bin
>
>
>
works to backup android phone partition to computer but when I want to restore using
>
> cat backup.bin | adb shell dd of=/dev/block/mmcblk0p7
>
>
>
it didn't work. the shell continues waiting for input instead of writing to the target immediately that I expected.
Is there something wrong with the command?
Is it possible to cat a file to an android phone with just adb shell and internal commands on the fly(without push backup file to phone first)?
---
I found something more problem adb shell makes.(the extra 0x0D)
<https://stackoverflow.com/questions/11689511/transferring-binary-data-over-adb-shell-ie-fast-file-transfer-using-tar>
>
> It seems the adb shell command translates LF to CRLF:
>
>
>
So adb shell cat to local computer seems not so good. But I still want to know how to cat directly to remote shell.
The push to sdcard solution is not applicable while restore data partition to a phone without external storage support.<issue_comment>username_1: Assuming the file is located on your computer, but you want to restore it on your device:
```
adb push /usr/local/backup/backup.bin /sdcard/backup.bin
adb shell dd if=/sdcard/backup.bin of=/dev/block/mmcblk0p7
```
should to the trick. Explanation: The first command copies the `backup.bin` file to your SDCard, and in the second line `dd` reads it from there and then writes it to the device specified. You might wish to combine this to a one-liner:
```
adb push /usr/local/backup/backup.bin /sdcard/backup.bin && adb shell dd if=/sdcard/backup.bin of=/dev/block/mmcblk0p7
```
This means: "Copy the file to the device, and execute `dd` only when the copy process succeeded".
To answer the other part of your question (what's wrong with your command): You cat the file to the local `adb` process on your computer, not to the remote `dd` process on your device. `adb` does not know how to "hand it over". So why does it work the other way around? Because there you capture the output displayed on your local computer, which of course you can redirect locally.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: This will work on a linux:
```
adb shell dd if=/dev/block/mmcblk0p7|sed 's/\r$//' > backup.bin
```
In MacOS it can be made to work as well, you just need to do it with Perl:
```
adb shell dd if=/dev/block/mmcblk0p7|perl -pe 's/\x0D\x0A/\x0A/g' > backup.bin
```
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/05/15 | 403 | 1,550 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm on a stable (Installer) build of Cyanogenmod 11 on a Galaxy Nexus, and for a while I've not been able to access 'Settings' at all - tapping on it to try to open it, gives me a "Unfortunately, Settings has stopped." crash.
I'm not a fan of unnecessarily wiping and re-flashing ROMs unless I absolutely have to - and I've got an idea, which is to 'Clear data' for the 'Settings' app (com.android.settings) and maybe that will make the crash go away and me be able to finally access Settings once again.
But what will I lose by doing this?
Will I lose important settings such as my (finely tuned) customised home screen icon layout, or my saved Wifi network passwords? Will it even delete my saved Google account(s) in the OS and possibly cause havoc as a result?
And furthermore, Could backing up the 'Settings' app in Titanium Backup Pro (then restoring), be a solution to fully restore the app's settings if it does?<issue_comment>username_1: I did it a few days ago for the same problem (CyanogenMod M8 for i9100):
* I didn't lose anything;
* It fixes the problem =)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As @sameer has mentioned you will lose the wifi password and bluetooth name etc when you do clear data for settings.But using titanium backup pro you can restore them as it is.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: You won't lose anything unless you clear data of "settings storage" app. It's pretty safe to clear data of settings app.but it'll hide the developer options just like on a new phone.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/16 | 425 | 1,833 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an HTC Butterfly phone and what I did was I ordered a new SD card with much larger memory. I had my previous card encrypted already and took that out and inserted my new card in.
The phone asked me to encrypt it again else the new inserted card would remain read-only. So, I did that. And now when I insert my old card in my phone again I cannot access data of my old card through the phone as the phone says the format is incorrect or the card is damaged and in order to use it I need to format it again.
Is there any way in which I can access the data from my old card? I cannot access it through my PC as it is encrypted already.
I have Android 4.3 and HTC Sense 5.5<issue_comment>username_1: Deleted photos, yes. Encrypted photos, no. If PhotoRec or ZAR can't recover them, they're gone. (ZAR even bypasses the CPU in the SD card, so it doesn't matter if the card is accessible or not.) and they can only recover data that looks like photos. "Data" that looks like random data (which is what an encrypted file looks like) isn't "recoverable" with file recovery techniques.
The encryption algorithm used in Android, due to the limited processing power, isn't unbreakable.
This is the reason that ALL important files should be backed up to at least 2 independent devices. If you don't have the time to do the backup, the files weren't that important.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Plain text data recovery can be done using a straightforward process like using any data recovery tool. But encrypted data or cipher text recovery cannot be done. Only the proper decryption can restore the data. So make it sure to decrypt the data before removing storage device. After removing storage drive like SD card without decryption, it is very difficult to restore data from the drive.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/16 | 888 | 3,214 | <issue_start>username_0: I have formatted the system using twrp now I can't flash the stock rom on my galaxy s3 sprint. I am getting the `file_getprop: failed to stat "system/build.prop" status 7` every time I try to flash the stock rom.
Is there any possible fix for this problem.<issue_comment>username_1: The problem that I have faced was caused by trying to install update of android 4.4.2 for my galaxy s3 while the update requires the previous version which is MK3 (android 4.3). As I mentioned in the question, I have formatted and deleted the whole system that's why `status 7` error showed up because `"system/build.prop"` was already deleted. The only possible solution I made was downloading and flashing the stock rom from [the official site](http://www.sammobile.com/firmwares/) using od3n software.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Usually the "status 7" error means that the update is designed for a different phone model (could be a completely different phone, or just slightly different variant of the same device.)
This check is performed against the existing `build.prop` file that resides in `/system` partition. Now since the file was missing due to you having formatted the phone, you are stuck in a "catch-22" situation. The work-around is to manually remove the above mentioned check.
1. Open the ROM's ZIP file in your favorite archive program (WinZip, 7-Zip, etc.)
2. Within the ZIP, navigate to `META-INF\com\google\android\` folder, and extract only the file named "`updater-script`".
3. Open this file in a text editor. It's important to use an advanced editor that will not modify the Unix line endings on the file when you save it. [Notepad++](http://notepad-plus-plus.org/), [Programmer's Notepad](http://www.pnotepad.org/), or [UltraEdit](http://www.ultraedit.com/) are good choices, while Windows' built-in Notepad or WordPad are not recommended.
4. In the `updater-script` file, delete the first statement that begins with "`assert(...`". This statement may span several lines, so delete all of them. E.g. for Galaxy S3 it looks like so:
>
> assert(getprop("ro.product.device") == "m0" ||
> getprop("ro.build.product") == "m0" ||
> getprop("ro.product.device") == "i9300" || getprop("ro.build.product") == "i9300" ||
>
> getprop("ro.product.device") == "GT-I9300" || getprop("ro.build.product") == "GT-I9300" || abort("This package is for \"m0,i9300,GT-I9300\" devices; this is a \"" +
> getprop("ro.product.device") + "\"."););
>
>
>
5. Add your edited `updater-script` file back into the ZIP file, overwriting the original in the same location. Depending on the archiving software you are using, it may be as simple as dragging and dropping it in.
Now you should be able to flash the modified ZIP file without it erroring out for model number mismatch.
Note that these "assert" statements are there for your own protection. You should remove them **only** if you are **absolutely certain** that the ZIP file you downloaded matches your phone's model number. Flashing a ROM made for a different phone (even if it's just a slightly different variant such as AT&T Galaxy S3 Vs. Verizon Galaxy S3) may render your phone inoperable.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/17 | 1,045 | 3,749 | <issue_start>username_0: So i **burned digitizer** on i9305 by flashing corrupted recovery. Then i flashed **new** working custom **ROM** and recovery, after Stock JB tried some KitKats like MoKee, Omni, CyanOgen 10/11 but i'm facing the same problem with all of them. After booting fresh android i got stuck on the **welcome screen** / first run setup wizard, cuz can't click anywhere. This phone supports **USB OTG** so i am able to use mouse in TWRP recovery for example, but the driver is not working on the welcome screen yet. Also i cant use **ADB** to simulate screen touch cuz it doesn't connect when the initial setup is active. I don't have any backup of initialized/configured android so this is no go either.
Any ideas how to get further?
Thanks for any tip.<issue_comment>username_1: Finally found solution via editing `/data/data/com.android.providers.settings/databases/settings.db` file via sqlite3. Just `adb pull` that file to your computer, if you use stock recovery you must mount userdata partition manually, in that case see [Android ADB Shell Recovery Mounting](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/39623/60711) for hints. Also you can't just pull the file directly but copy it inside `adb shell` to your sdcard or some intermediary filesystem. Eg. `busybox cp sett* /sdcard`
To get rid of the initial setup:
```
update global set value=1 where name='device_provisioned';
update secure set value=1 where name='user_setup_complete';
insert into secure (name,value) VALUES ('device_provisioned','1');
```
Yes, the device\_provisioned must be present in both tables. However on the stock JB there was no global table, so you don't need to take care of it and the secure table is missing some records we update here so these need to be inserted instead. On stock JB before editing the settings.db run `PRAGMA wal_checkpoint` and `PRAGMA journal_mode = DELETE` described here: <https://stackoverflow.com/a/21258892/881375> otherwise updates on existing rows won't take effect because android will rollback on reboot. For CyanOgenMod 11 just delete the settings.db-journal file and it should be OK.
It was neccessary after pushing the settings.db file back to folder on device to
```
chmod 660 settings.db
chown system:system settings.db
```
in this order, because chmod may set the owner and group back to root
USB OTG mouse is still not working sadly, so i guess i must get access for adb anyway.
To enable USB debugging (ADB):
```
setprop persist.service.adb.enable 1 ('setprop persist.sys.usb.config mtp,adb' if needed)
```
settings.db:
```
update secure set value=5037 where name='adb_port';
update global set value=1 where name='adb_enabled';
```
After booting dialog to confirm PC's fingerprint appears. To avoid this get your adbkey.pub (on linux may be located at ~/.android):
```
adb push adbkey.pub /data/misc/adb/adbkey.pub
cat adbkey.pub >> adb_keys
```
After all of this you can `input tap|swipe|text` anything to control your phone and get access for bluetooth or OTG mouse/keyboard etc. I hope this helps.
The fingerprint injection is needed for Android 4.2.2+.
Thanks to xda-developers and android issues with adb security at code.google.com.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I had the same problem. Solved it by installing [ShareKM](https://sites.google.com/site/droidskm/) (app that allows you to control your android phone with a pc's keyboard and mouse). After you run the ShareKM app it will probably tell you it is outdated and you won't be able to run it. A workaround (found in [this](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2176712&page=10) xda thread) is to first kill the app, clear its cache and set the date on your phone to 3/30/2014.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/17 | 441 | 1,652 | <issue_start>username_0: The native calculator app on Android 4.4 has a "Clear history" option, but I have no clue on how to see this history.
I've tried swipe movements, clicked on every possible button, and even held down the menu button as described [here](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/19407/accessing-calculation-history-on-htc-calculator-app), but I could not make the on-screen keyboard show up.
Has anybody had more luck trying this?<issue_comment>username_1: There is currently no way of accessing the history without a device that has a scrollwheel. For some reason, Google didn't implement any UI or touch screen functions with the history, and therefore the only way to access it is to scroll down with a scrollwheel. There's a bug report [here](https://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=24002).
There's an improved calculator app from CyanogenMod called [CyanogenMod Calculator](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.android2.calculator3), which has a history. (The link should work but is untested since Google Play throws an SSL certificate error on my current connection)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The two bars at the middle top of the
top #'s shows the history. Just tap on them.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: I have a Galaxy Note(1) running 4.1.2, and to access the calculator history I just click the little triangle/arrow at the top of the on-screen keypad.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Try using the volume buttons to scroll through the history.
I'm using Fairphone on stock Android 4.2.2.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/17 | 476 | 1,827 | <issue_start>username_0: I have **connectbot** in my Android Phone (GT-N7000). How can I access a PC through that app ? I tried to use **putty** to establish ssh in my PC but it didn't work well. Can anyone give my a solution to this problem?<issue_comment>username_1: I guess there's some trouble in your conception: [Connectbot](http://www.appbrain.com/app/connectbot/org.connectbot) is an SSH client, while Windows does not ship with an SSH server pre-installed. So unless you've installed some SSH server there yourself (details on that part are beyond the scope of this site), you won't have much luck connecting.
You didn't exactly write what you want to achieve, but there are [different solution](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists.php?topic=cat;id=148 "Control your Computer using your Droid") to connect your Android device to control your PC. As shipped, Windows supports the [Remote Desktop Protocol](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Remote_Desktop_Protocol) (aka RDP), for which several Android clients exist. The page behind [this link](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists.php?topic=cat;id=148 "Control your Computer using your Droid") lists up some of them. Other than with Connectbot, this will be in graphical mode, not command-line.
A general solution (valid for other OSes as well) could also be using [VNC](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VNC). Again, this would require a server software to be installed on your PC, a corresponding client app on your Android device (also to be found on the mentioned list), and it would be in graphical mode.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: An easy solution is to use [TeamViewer](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.teamviewer.teamviewer.market.mobile)
Easy to setup if you want a quick working solution. Plus it works with Mac/Windows/Linux.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/18 | 439 | 1,878 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm planning to buy my first android phone which has non-removable battery. But in case the phone hangs what to do ? As in general case we remove the battery from the device and plug it in after a few seconds. But what can be done with non-removable device in cases where the phone just stops to responds and even refuses to restart ?<issue_comment>username_1: Like on a PC, holding down the power button is handled in a much lower level of the firmware, so it's not possible for even an OS problem or a CPU hang to interfere with that operation.
I've been using Android devices with removable and non-removable batteries for several years, and never once needed to remove the battery for the reason you describe.
Consider that the people most likely to need to do such a thing are the OS authors and system integrators themselves, inside Google and the OEM. They have to keep experimenting and testing with unstable builds of the OS every day, so they see the device hang a lot. In a single week, they probably see more hangs than the average end-user sees in the whole lifetime of the device. So if devices with non-removable batteries were a problem like this, they'd never get off the drawing board, because it would be so much harder to develop the software for them.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I had to remove the battery from my O4X several times already, as it didn't respond to anything else – so I can see your concern: What to do if the battery cannot be removed then? As to my experiences, devices with a non-removable battery have a *reset hole*, which serves exactly this purpose: poking it with a needle (or tooth-stick, or something similar) disconnects the battery, as if you had removed it. So the only disadvantage left is you cannot *replace* the battery (say, with a backup you took along).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/05/18 | 371 | 1,447 | <issue_start>username_0: Want to use PC broadband connection on the phone connected via USB [no Bluetooth or wifi] to surf on the phone or install app.
The android device is running 4.0.4 and the PC running Windows 7
I dont want to **root** the phone. I've the phone driver installed.<issue_comment>username_1: well i hope i am wrong about it but as far as i know there is no way to do so.
i tried searching a method for it and wasted about a good few dozens of hours over it and kept on searching for it until i was sure that it cant be done without rooting the device.
many youtube videos, websites and blog claim they have a method and i tried almost every one i got to know but cudn't find a working method.
hope my answer helps.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Unfortunately, that's probably not possible, but most of the things you would do on the phone you can do on the computer and then transfer to phone. For example, app apks can be downloaded and moved and then installed.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Despite what others say, this is in fact possible.
As I could not find any solution myself, I finally created my own app. It supports Android 4.0+ on the client side and all major desktop operating systems on the host side.
You can check the app ReverseTethering NoRoot PRO on [Google Play Store](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.floriandraschbacher.reversetethering.free)
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/18 | 419 | 1,614 | <issue_start>username_0: [PoE](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet) lead me to idea of having some kind connector, allowing supplying my connected tabled with power from it's charger (5V 2A) and in same time being connected to computer (for backup or whatever purpose).
Do you know such hardware solution?
To make it bold: I want to connect charger for power (2A) and have data connection in same time! (imagine a kind of "Y" saped thing :) )<issue_comment>username_1: well i hope i am wrong about it but as far as i know there is no way to do so.
i tried searching a method for it and wasted about a good few dozens of hours over it and kept on searching for it until i was sure that it cant be done without rooting the device.
many youtube videos, websites and blog claim they have a method and i tried almost every one i got to know but cudn't find a working method.
hope my answer helps.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Unfortunately, that's probably not possible, but most of the things you would do on the phone you can do on the computer and then transfer to phone. For example, app apks can be downloaded and moved and then installed.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Despite what others say, this is in fact possible.
As I could not find any solution myself, I finally created my own app. It supports Android 4.0+ on the client side and all major desktop operating systems on the host side.
You can check the app ReverseTethering NoRoot PRO on [Google Play Store](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.floriandraschbacher.reversetethering.free)
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/18 | 231 | 917 | <issue_start>username_0: [How to download photos (of others) from Instagram?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/22022/how-to-download-photos-of-others-from-instagram)
I already saw this question but I can not see the files 0.'s is possible?<issue_comment>username_1: I don't think this is possible by default. If your device is rooted, you might be able to inspect your file system, and find where the pictures are stored (and then, you might be able to actually view them, depending on if there are encrypted).
Bottom line, I don't think Instagram wants you looking at their pictures, outside of their app, and you will need to bypass their controls to do this.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You will need to copy the files with `.0` extension elsewhere on your device (*say* : to downloads folder) then rename them from `filename.0` to `filename.jpg`
they should open fine after that.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/19 | 411 | 1,577 | <issue_start>username_0: Recently an icon has started to appear in my notification window. What does it mean ?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8Lbjd.png)
Click image for larger version<issue_comment>username_1: Its shows that your phone is in **Extended Standby Mode**.
You can find it in `Settings->PowerManagemnet`
Extended standby mode increases the standby time by reducing the background activities when the phone is in standby mode.
Data will automatically be turned off and background activities will be stopped from waking up , while applications will also be prevented from syncing data.
You will still be able to receive calls and texts, while the calendar application and alarms will still feature normally. As soon as you unlock your smartphone it'll go returning to functioning normally.
Any ongoing downloads or bluetooth transfer will be allowed to complete and once completed data will be turned off.
**Extended standby mode** is replaced with **Stamina Mode** for Xperia running on Jellybean or higher
Source : [SONY](http://developer.sonymobile.com/2012/10/05/learn-about-extended-standby-mode-sonys-new-power-save-feature-video/)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: This iS Battery STAMINA Mode.
With Sony’s power management
setting called Battery STAMINA
Mode, you can extend the standby
time of your Xperia™ device by more
than four times. With Battery
STAMINA Mode turned on, the
background activities of most
applications are reduced when you
turn off the screen.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/19 | 396 | 1,587 | <issue_start>username_0: When I send a group message on my galaxy s3 software 4.3 other people in the group message receive the message as an individual message. How do I fix this so that all the people in message receive it as a group message.<issue_comment>username_1: Its shows that your phone is in **Extended Standby Mode**.
You can find it in `Settings->PowerManagemnet`
Extended standby mode increases the standby time by reducing the background activities when the phone is in standby mode.
Data will automatically be turned off and background activities will be stopped from waking up , while applications will also be prevented from syncing data.
You will still be able to receive calls and texts, while the calendar application and alarms will still feature normally. As soon as you unlock your smartphone it'll go returning to functioning normally.
Any ongoing downloads or bluetooth transfer will be allowed to complete and once completed data will be turned off.
**Extended standby mode** is replaced with **Stamina Mode** for Xperia running on Jellybean or higher
Source : [SONY](http://developer.sonymobile.com/2012/10/05/learn-about-extended-standby-mode-sonys-new-power-save-feature-video/)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: This iS Battery STAMINA Mode.
With Sony’s power management
setting called Battery STAMINA
Mode, you can extend the standby
time of your Xperia™ device by more
than four times. With Battery
STAMINA Mode turned on, the
background activities of most
applications are reduced when you
turn off the screen.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/19 | 546 | 1,766 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to retrieve a list of installed applications on KitKat and I also need their version numbers. I know I can use adb shell pm . . . to obtain a list of all packages, but I need the version for each application. I want to use ADB instead of manually clicking on each app inside of app manager. Is there a command that will give me that information?
Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: In ADB shell issue the following command:
```
dumpsys package packages
```
This gives you all the information about installed packages, including the version number. You can then play around with `grep` utility to narrow down the results to only the lines you need:
```
dumpsys package packages | grep -E 'Package \[|versionName'
```
The above returns something similar to this:
```
Package [com.android.voicedialer] (41cb1a08):
versionName=4.4.2-323cb6b305
Package [com.android.defcontainer] (41cb4750):
versionName=4.4.2-323cb6b305
Package [ru.ok.android] (41cb7200):
versionName=3.7.5
Package [org.koxx.pure_calendar] (41cb9818):
versionName=3.3.3
Package [com.android.phone] (41df4fe8):
versionName=4.4.2-323cb6b305
Package [com.gsamlabs.xposed.mods.enablebatterystatspermission] (41cbc008):
versionName=1.2
...
```
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I use this app from Google Play:
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=cz.ox.AppList&hl=en>
Description:
Write down all installed applications into the text or html file and save it on memory card into the InstalledApps directory.
In default, it creats log after each installed/uninstalled application.
Check Setup button in application for more settings.
Basic PHP script for auto upload you can find at <http://www.2ox.cz/applist/>
I am not author of this app.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/19 | 646 | 2,577 | <issue_start>username_0: I've only had my Samsung Galaxy S5 for about a week now. I've been mowing the lawn whilst listening to music. Every so often, the music would stutter or skip to the next track. When I took my phone out of my pocket, it was still locked, but awake. And on the lock screen whilst playing music are controls to pause and skip tracks. So I'm guessing that the home button is being pressed by my leg and the controls on the screen are being pressed.
Is there some way of making it so that the home button does not wake the device, or at least not when it's in my pocket?!<issue_comment>username_1: I don't think you can without installing a custom ROM.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: If anyone is searching for a solution here, here's what I did. I use the "SlideLock" app for my lock screen. This way I get iOS style notifications on the lockscreen. In the "Settings" >> "Lockscreen" for SlideLock, there's an option to "Block home button" - prevent unlocking the device using the home button. I activated that, and now that stops accidental activations or turning on of the phone. Hope that helps. :)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: If you rooted your S5 it is pretty simple (and you don't have to install third party apps):
1) use a file manager and go into root -> system -> usr -> keylayout and find the file gpio-keys.kl ;
2) Open it with a text editor and find the lines with "WAKE" written in them;
3) Go to the one with "HOME" written in it and just delete this word and all the spaces between the number on the left and "WAKE" on the right;
4) Save the file and you're done;
If you can't do this 30seconds thing because your S5 is not rooted then I'd suggest you to root your phone: a new world opens right in front of you ;)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Get a s view case. Not only does it have room cut out for the button, the magnets stop the phone also to unlock..
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_5: If your phone is rooted (recommended for so many reasons), you can install Xposed Framework and a module called Wanam Xposed. After you've installed these and rebooted your phone, open Wanam Xposed, go into "System," scroll down to "Disable wake HOME button" and put a check mark in the box. Reboot your phone again to apply the change.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: Get a case or cover for your phone that covers the home button.
Your phone will still have the same functionality and will be protected from accidental wakeups.
Additionally it will also be protected from scratches
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/20 | 614 | 2,455 | <issue_start>username_0: I was trying to install AOSP rom for Xperia L provided by Sony. So i tried to unlock my device using Flash tool. I tried unlocking the device, it replied "failed" first and second time I tried, it ran some commands, said ok and requested for a Restart. And when i restart it displays SONY, XPERIA and gets caught in a loop displaying a image.
Is there something I missed before I unlock my device or there is a problem with the device?
thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: I don't think you can without installing a custom ROM.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: If anyone is searching for a solution here, here's what I did. I use the "SlideLock" app for my lock screen. This way I get iOS style notifications on the lockscreen. In the "Settings" >> "Lockscreen" for SlideLock, there's an option to "Block home button" - prevent unlocking the device using the home button. I activated that, and now that stops accidental activations or turning on of the phone. Hope that helps. :)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: If you rooted your S5 it is pretty simple (and you don't have to install third party apps):
1) use a file manager and go into root -> system -> usr -> keylayout and find the file gpio-keys.kl ;
2) Open it with a text editor and find the lines with "WAKE" written in them;
3) Go to the one with "HOME" written in it and just delete this word and all the spaces between the number on the left and "WAKE" on the right;
4) Save the file and you're done;
If you can't do this 30seconds thing because your S5 is not rooted then I'd suggest you to root your phone: a new world opens right in front of you ;)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Get a s view case. Not only does it have room cut out for the button, the magnets stop the phone also to unlock..
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_5: If your phone is rooted (recommended for so many reasons), you can install Xposed Framework and a module called Wanam Xposed. After you've installed these and rebooted your phone, open Wanam Xposed, go into "System," scroll down to "Disable wake HOME button" and put a check mark in the box. Reboot your phone again to apply the change.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: Get a case or cover for your phone that covers the home button.
Your phone will still have the same functionality and will be protected from accidental wakeups.
Additionally it will also be protected from scratches
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/20 | 635 | 2,381 | <issue_start>username_0: I use miniDLNA to stream videos from my Ubuntu computer to my Galaxy tablet running Android 4.4 and BubbleUPNP.
Some video files don't play at all. Some play the video, but no sound. It doesn't seem to be just a matter of file format. Sometimes, for example, some `.MKV` files will play fine, and others wont. Some `.AVI` files work, and others don't.
All the video files play on my computer without any problem, so I assume it's just a matter of some codecs not being available on my Android device. Or something to do with compatibility.
Is there a way I can make my Android device able to play a wider variety of formats, if not *all* video formats?<issue_comment>username_1: This is almost certainly a codec problem, there are two ends you could come at this from, either the tablet or the computer.
What video playing apps are you using on your tablet just the built in one, or have you installed any additional apps?
If you haven't tried installing any other video playing apps on your tablet, then try one or two of these. You'll find that they should support a lot more video formats than your built-in player:
* [MX Player](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mxtech.videoplayer.ad)
* [Moboplayer](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.clov4r.android.nil)
* [VLC](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.videolan.vlc.betav7neon)
Do you need to use miniDLNA on your computer, or can you use something with [transcoding](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transcoding) support that can convert the videos into formats that your tablet can play "on the fly"?
Alternatively, there are DLNA compatible servers that you can install on your PC that will transcode your videos to compatible formats as they stream them, I've used [Plex Media Server](https://plex.tv/downloads) (which as well as being DLNA compliant, also has an [Android client](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.plexapp.android) to make the experience even easier and more pleasant than using DLNA) and I know people who use [PS3Media Server](http://www.ps3mediaserver.org/) for this too (despite the name it's not tied to PS3's these days).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Tablet upgraded to Android 4.4.4, and now this is no longer an issue. Videos play smoother and faster over my local network.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2014/05/20 | 605 | 2,319 | <issue_start>username_0: I'd like to add a contact picture to all of my contacts, but when I first installed Facebook I synced my phone to all of my Facebook friends. I quickly realized this was a mistake as I then had loads of contacts I didn't want, so I removed the Facebook account, and uninstalled the Facebook app. I then re installed the app and this time clicked "sync only my contacts", but this again synced with all of my Facebook friends.
If I change the settings to show only the contacts on my sim then I'm back to square one, and none of the contacts have pictures.
How can I resolve this?
Thanks!<issue_comment>username_1: This is almost certainly a codec problem, there are two ends you could come at this from, either the tablet or the computer.
What video playing apps are you using on your tablet just the built in one, or have you installed any additional apps?
If you haven't tried installing any other video playing apps on your tablet, then try one or two of these. You'll find that they should support a lot more video formats than your built-in player:
* [MX Player](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mxtech.videoplayer.ad)
* [Moboplayer](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.clov4r.android.nil)
* [VLC](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.videolan.vlc.betav7neon)
Do you need to use miniDLNA on your computer, or can you use something with [transcoding](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transcoding) support that can convert the videos into formats that your tablet can play "on the fly"?
Alternatively, there are DLNA compatible servers that you can install on your PC that will transcode your videos to compatible formats as they stream them, I've used [Plex Media Server](https://plex.tv/downloads) (which as well as being DLNA compliant, also has an [Android client](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.plexapp.android) to make the experience even easier and more pleasant than using DLNA) and I know people who use [PS3Media Server](http://www.ps3mediaserver.org/) for this too (despite the name it's not tied to PS3's these days).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Tablet upgraded to Android 4.4.4, and now this is no longer an issue. Videos play smoother and faster over my local network.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2014/05/20 | 809 | 3,260 | <issue_start>username_0: I would like to remove unnecessary data usage. I have wifi at home and at work and I would like Android to synchronize/update apps/... only on wifi. In fact, I don't want Android to do any background action which consumes data when I'm not connected to a wifi network.
To sum up, basically, I would like a way (an app?) which disables data when not on wifi and enables it automatically when on wifi.
How can I achieve this?
I'm using Android 4.4 on a Galaxy Nexus (with the help of CyanogenMod 11).<issue_comment>username_1: With on-board methods: You could go to *Settings→Data Usage* and setup and restrict "background data" for all apps. For this, you would first need to setup some (fake) limit of monthly data (5 TB is fine; you just need to set *simething* here). Then you can tap each app and activate the check-mark to "restrict background data".
Alternatively, you can pick some [automation app](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists.php?topic=cat;id=178) such as *Tasker* or *Llama*, and have it disabling background data altogether whenever you're not on WiFi, and re-enable it whenever you're on WiFi. Much easier to setup (as you wouldn't have to care for each app separately, and remember that whenever a new app is installed).
If you want to disable mobile data altogether, this again can be done via *Setup→Network*, for *mobile data* and *WiFi* separately. So you could just re-enable it manually whenever you need it; disabling *mobile data* has no effect on WiFi, so you wouldn't need to permanently switch back and forth. Of course, those automation apps could take care for that as well ;)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: There is one more standard Android setting, i.e. no app needed, which you can change - in fact anyone without unlimited cellular data should do this at first set up. As I can only check Android 5, I can't say how this is done in earlier versions:
1. Open the Play Store App
2. Go to Settings:
* Click the 3 horizontal bars at top on left of search box.
* Left panel slides out...
* Scroll down and tap "Settings".
3. First section "General", tap first item "Auto-update apps"
4. Select third option "Auto-update apps over Wi-Fi only".
This disables a LARGE amount of the automatic data usage while apps auto-update whenever you're on Wi-Fi.
---
One warning about Restrict Background Data:
On the Settings->Data Usage page, you can scroll down and select each app and choose to restrict background data for that app. This will only allow background data on Wi-Fi for that app.
However, if you then use the Settings->DataUsage->more options->Restrict Background Data, this applies to ALL apps. If you then choose to allow it again, it resets ALL the Apps you've individually restricted back to no restriction. So if you're wanting that level of control, you will need to use a 3rd party app as suggested.
*(Here's hoping that a future release of Android sets these as checkboxes on a list of ALL apps as it has for "Move to SD card" to make it easier to stop background data usage by unimportant apps off-Wi-Fi. Then it would be easy for a master control to restrict all apps not already restricted so that it wouldn't reset the checked items.)*
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/05/19 | 439 | 1,683 | <issue_start>username_0: I don't know what I've installed to my android phone but something cause my phone to show ads on every page I visit.
It doesn't matter if I use Google Chrome or default android browser.
I try to uninstall every app I got suspicious but it did not helped.
Here is a few screenshots of the problem (Click for full size):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8wy6U.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gAxEt.png)<issue_comment>username_1: After uninstalling nearly all the apps downloaded from Play Store (except a few like Twitter, Facebook etc.), I still had the issue.
I, then, tried to uninstall Google chrome which seems to be not allowed to do in normal ways (I guess it is one of the default apps of the phone).
Lastly, I found out that there is an update for the Chrome on the Play Store. I updated the app and surprisingly see that the problem is solved.
Have no idea what happened there and still suspicious about the problem but, seems like I succeed.
P.S. I will be grateful if someone explains what happened to my phone, technically. (Does updating Chrome change things for the default web browser? Because, I was having the same issue both in Chrome and default browser)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: If you restore the setting of your default android browser then problem will solve.Actually I was also suffering from this problem. Try it and I am definitely sure ,your android web browser will not longer to show you adds whether you browse on a official websites.It works.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/21 | 382 | 1,517 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm looking for a USB driver for my phone [Samsung GT-S7582 S Duos 2](http://www.samsung.com/levant/consumer/mobile-phones/mobile-phones/duos/GT-S7582ZKAMID). Can't find it in Samsung Official Site. Someone please help me.<issue_comment>username_1: Install [kies](http://www.samsung.com/in/support/usefulsoftware/KIES/JSP) in your PC. It will automatically install corresponding USB drivers.
**EDIT:**
[Samsung Kies](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samsung_Kies) is a freeware software application used to communicate between Windows or Mac operating systems, and more recently manufactured Samsung mobile phone and tablet computer devices, usually using a USB cable connection (though wireless LAN Kies connectivity is now possible using some devices).
This software may be used for:
1. Data backup
2. Data transfer (between a Windows or Mac PC, and a Samsung mobile device), limited to certain media file formats.
3. Multimedia (audio, photos, video, etc.) management, but limited to certain file formats.
4. Purchase/acquisition of additional or special device features.
5. Device firmware and operating system (OS version) upgrades.
To work all these, USB driver should be installed. So When you install this software it will automatically detect your device and install USB drivers.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Install moborobo. Never fails. It will get you drivers automatically. Then download SRS root & it will root it in one single click.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/05/21 | 410 | 1,765 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm french, my system is in french.
I would like to be able to type english words without being bothered by the autocorrection.
How can i proceed ?
Edit: Free solutions please<issue_comment>username_1: If auto-correct is the problem, I'd just turn it off. Then you can type whatever you want without the system trying to over-ride your decisions. It does mean that you'll have to take responsibility for any spelling mistakes, but it also means no more having your words twisted by a matching algorithm.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I also have this problem, where I often type in Italian using many English words or even expressions. If you can't find a keyboard with support for two separate languages (I know the Xperia default keyboard does, for example), I strongly suggest you to try SwiftKey. Along with many wonderful features, it is also able to recognize up to three languages at a time (e.g. you can start typing in French, and then type a word in English: SwiftKey will recognize you're now using English, and apply the English autocorrect and suggestions) - just install the appropriate language packs (in your case, French, English (GB) and English (US)).
SwiftKey has a free trial that lasts 1 month, but some googling is enough to find out how to bypass the limit.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: If I remember well:
In the language and input settings click the settings icon next Google Keyboard.
You can then change the input languages settings and select multiple languages.
Finally go the advanced settings there should be a way to enable a key that allows you to easily switch your input method when typing (from memory it was by holding the space bar)
Bon courage!
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/05/21 | 678 | 2,740 | <issue_start>username_0: WIFI is turned off on my mobile.
A. I had turned off auto sync feature as follows:
1. Apps > Settings > Accounts & sync > Google > Auto sync is turned off for my email
2. Apps > Settings > Accounts & sync > E-mail > Auto sync is turned off for my email
B. In Gallery, I had turned off auto sync as follows:
1. Gallery > Settings > unchecked option for 'Sync on Wi-Fi only'
C. Deleted auto-synced photos in Gallery as follows:
1. Apps > Setttings > Apps > ALL > Gallery > Clear data and Clear cache
Now, when I visit Gallery I do not see photos auto-synced, but once I turn on WIFI and visit Gallery, it again syncs photos from 'somewhere'. And, shockingly, option as specified in B.1(listed above) is auto checked. The photos which I see are the ones which I had uploaded to my Google+ a/c. Why I say 'somewhere' because, I had deleted all photos and posts which contain photos from my Google+ account. Still, I can see photos appearing when WIFI is turned on.
Please help:
1. From where does Android sync photos?
2. Get rid of photos to be auto synced when WIFI is turned on.
Thanks much!
PHONE: LG Optimus L7 II Dual and OS: Android v 4.1.2<issue_comment>username_1: If auto-correct is the problem, I'd just turn it off. Then you can type whatever you want without the system trying to over-ride your decisions. It does mean that you'll have to take responsibility for any spelling mistakes, but it also means no more having your words twisted by a matching algorithm.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I also have this problem, where I often type in Italian using many English words or even expressions. If you can't find a keyboard with support for two separate languages (I know the Xperia default keyboard does, for example), I strongly suggest you to try SwiftKey. Along with many wonderful features, it is also able to recognize up to three languages at a time (e.g. you can start typing in French, and then type a word in English: SwiftKey will recognize you're now using English, and apply the English autocorrect and suggestions) - just install the appropriate language packs (in your case, French, English (GB) and English (US)).
SwiftKey has a free trial that lasts 1 month, but some googling is enough to find out how to bypass the limit.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: If I remember well:
In the language and input settings click the settings icon next Google Keyboard.
You can then change the input languages settings and select multiple languages.
Finally go the advanced settings there should be a way to enable a key that allows you to easily switch your input method when typing (from memory it was by holding the space bar)
Bon courage!
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/05/21 | 1,133 | 4,566 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently updated my Samsung Galaxy S4, and it came with some new features and also some new problems. Since the new update I have been getting warnings on my phone telling me it is overheating. The phone also has the ability to kill apps that are using a lot of processing power in order to get the phone to cool down. This has proven to be not only inconvenient, but actually dangerous. On several occasions the app that was closed (which, in truth, likely contributed to its overheating) was Waze. This usually happens on long trips, while i'm going 60mph, forcing me to pull over on the side of a highway just to let my phone cool down so that I can open the app again. I have not gotten into an auto accident yet, but I would much rather not be in that situation to being with. For others, there can be an [even greater danger in just getting lost](http://www.aol.com/article/2014/05/05/u-s-marine-veteran-takes-wrong-turn-ends-up-in-mexican-prison/20880118/).
**Is there a way to put certain apps, such as Waze, or any other navigation app, on a system whitelist so that they don't get shut down mid-use, potentially creating an extremely dangerous situation?**<issue_comment>username_1: I don't know if this will work in your situation (and I can't test it myself) as in your situation it seems the killing of processes is done for safety reasons and not just to free up memory but it could be worth a try.
The app is called [MinFreeManager](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dustypixels.minfreemanager) **(requires root)** and there is a good guide [here](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=622666). Taken from the link to the guide, here is an overview of what the app will do;
`ActivityManagerService.java` looks at the 'importance' of running processes; foreground apps, services, content providers etc, and prioritises them for close order in an `oom` (out of memory) situation. Each process is assigned an `oom_adj` value. The lower the value, the less likely Android is to close the app when it starts to run out of memory.
These values are managed by Android at runtime so a processes `oom` value can and will change as it changes state, from foreground, to background to idle etc.
The app can adjust a processes `oom_adj` values to your own custom values so you can try and manipulate which apps Android will close first and at what stage of low memory on the device.
Like I said, this is just a very basic overview. Follow the link to the guide and you will find all the information you need to give it a go (Could go on for pages if I tried to explain in full detail).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I do not think it is the app the is using processing power and causing the phone to overheat. The most likely contributer to heat on the phone is the enabling of data, bluetooth and gps. These services require constant processing and 'pings' to maintain connectivity.
Waze and other gps based applications, use both data and location information, and at 60mph, they will be using even more of these, as the location is changing constantly and they need to refresh their maps and update their gps co-ordinates. If you are using a newer version of android (kitkat), you can change the level of GPS accuracy - device only should be fine for Waze, like so: 
If your on an older android version (jellybean or below), you can play around with the settings, but I am not sure how that will affect battery. The settings look like this:
Obviously, you should try and remove all other services that are using battery, if possible, turn off bluetooth, data sync, lower display brightness, try not to constant charge the battery (this causes heat, you might only want to charge when battery drops below 15% and then take it off after 15 minutes) and so on. If all else fails, I would try and switch away from Waze. I suspect due to its social nature, it may be using the data connection for more than just sending map data. There are other mapping apps that can cache maps - therefore not requiring an active data connection - a huge battery saver!
If all this fails - I would suggest going to the manufacturer and ask for a new phone, as your battery or phone may be at fault. I use the maps on my phone (nexus 5), but other than slight heating (warm) on long journies - my phone does not shut down google maps or waze.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/21 | 1,190 | 4,648 | <issue_start>username_0: So, the touchscreen on my Nexus 4 broke this weekend. I have a new device coming in, but in the meantime I need to be able to access the device to use a few different apps and send/receive some SMS messages from it.
I found this guide on reddit: <http://www.reddit.com/r/Android/comments/1r2zha/how_i_managed_to_use_my_android_device_with_a/>
It's not exactly simple, but it should work.
Unfortunately, I discovered that in order to use ADB shell commands, a pop-up window should appear on the phone to allow/disallow USB debugging. (USB debugging is enabled already, but there appears to be an additional 'authentication' step)
Unfortunately, I can't use the phone's touchscreen, so I can't unlock it or tap the notification that will allow me to authenticate the phone.
Is there a way I can get around that authentication step?
The device is unlocked and rooted.<issue_comment>username_1: I'm sure this is not exactly the answer you're looking for, but this could solve your problem:
If your Nexus works fine otherwise, why don't you just plug a mouse and keyboard (via USB OTG or Bluetooth) and pretend your Nexus does not have touch screen?
Anything, including allowing USB debugging would work as the mouse cursor is even usable when your phone is locked.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I saw this on a different thread, after searching online for hours and hours....seemed to help a few out so I am re-posting here...
>
> "This just happened to me!
>
> Phone works but screen and LCD broken and unresponsive. I had a screen lock too so what I did was I took off the back plate, removed the battery, and unscrewed the six screws to uncover the PCB board under the back housing. Then I carefully disconnected all the tiny ribbon connectors.
>
>
> I waited a minute just to be superstitious and then reconnected all the ribbon connectors and put everything back to how it was. Then I downloaded [Kies](http://www.samsung.com/us/support/owners/app/kies) from the Samsung website, pluged my phone into a computer via USB and was able to view all my files!
>
>
> Something about disconnecting the PCB board resets the default settings to factory state but doesn't delete any data at all. Good luck and I hope this helps someone out there."
>
>
>
Source: [Android Central](http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s4/305963-broken-samsung-galaxy-s4-screen-how-retrieve-data.html#post3063802)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Well with the boot loader unlocked you can temporarily boot up into recovery by using fastboot:
```
fastboot boot recovery-clockwork-6.0.4.7-mako.img
```
This will then give you adb access to your device to get files off etc. The adb debug mode could then be turned on by editing a settings file and copying in the crypto keys generated by adb on the host computer. I've done the latter before but not the former, which could be an issue.
Update - To reboot into fastboot mode do:
To get into fastboot mode power off the phone, if nothing else a very long press on the phone should work if all else fails (I don't want to confirm this on mine and crash it!). Then power on holding down the volume down key and the power key together. If you can't see the display (I gather you can but you can't use the touch screen) then hold the buttons down for about five seconds and it should vibrate to confirm. Then use the above command to load custom recovery and gain adb access. This all assumes that the boot loader is unlocked, as stated above.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I figured this out on my own. I solved this by installing Airdroid using an OTG USB adapter and a wired mouse. I then used the airmirror capability of the software to control a virtual mouse on the device. I do have root on the device, this may be significant to the operation of Airmirror. I could then accept the debug confirmation on the screen and complete the backups I wanted to do.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: I did something a little boring, but it helped me ... Since I wanted to use the smartphone as a webcam, but as you may already guess, the screen is broken.
So I connected the smartphone to the computer, when the message was displayed on the screen, I marked the location for yes and with one of those automatic click apps, I selected the location and put a delay of a few seconds. I started the application and connected to the computer, so after a few seconds he clicked yes and I was allowed to do what I needed.
NOTE: To install and configure the auto click application, I used an OTG cable with a mouse.
Sorry for my English...
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/22 | 899 | 3,710 | <issue_start>username_0: When I plug my phone into my PC (which is running Windows 7 OS) only charging takes place. When I view my phone in Device Manager, it says that Samsung Android files are not installed. But I installed those and also tried with Samsung Kies 3 but it's still not getting connected.<issue_comment>username_1: Trying turning phone off, take battery out. Wait 15 seconds. Reinsert battery, turn on. Then try connecting to PC again. Hopefully it'll recognise the device when you do this.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You have to install the drivers for your phone. Go to the [Samsung support site](http://www.samsung.com/us/support/downloads), which should let you download a driver for your PC that will recognize your phone.
If that does not work, scroll down your menu bar on your phone then click USB (phone should recognize it, if plugged in) then click media transfer. You can choose USB 3.0 I believe.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: First, what you want to do ? Transfer files to the phone or make something with ADB and stuff.
Good that you have Kies 3 installed.
If transfer files. Check this: when you connect the phone there is a popup on the upper bar, sometimes you need to click it and change it to 'transfer files' - then the phone will go into MTP mode which allows you to view it in "My computer"
If make something with ADB: first try to install maybe Naked Drivers (it worked for me note 1 on win7):
<http://forum.xda-developers.com/google-nexus-5/development/adb-fb-apx-driver-universal-naked-t2513339>
, then enable debug in settings. When debug is enabled when u connect the phone it should ask for driver.
Also in bootloader and fastboot there is another driver needed but it sgould be in Naked or Kies drivers, also Android SDK have drivers.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: My Windows10 Toshiba Kira notebook had ignored my USB connected Samsung Note3 for a long time. After many attempts I solved this as follows.
I noticed my phone was recognised in "Printers and Devices" but had an error because of a metered (wireless) connection (because I needed to control usage when hotspotting), and one of the properties suggested it was looking for Bluetooth. I may have deleted this device (as I recall I didnt), but I removed and inserted the USB cable a couple of times before/during/after this whole process.
I also enabled Developer mode several times with USB debugging finally toggled OFF, then turned OFF the wireless hotsopt on the Note3. At this point, after reconnecting the USB cable I got half of an audio connection acknowledgement.
I disconnected/reconnected again and finally finally finally got the full audio connection sound!!!
I then coerced the network connection in Windows Explorer by typing in the already configured \PhoneNetworkName into the location. I made the network private and discoverable when I got the pop-up, then it all worked.
The Phone also appeared in Device Manager under Portable Devices and I had a notification "Connected as a media device" on the phone. Pressing this took me to the "USB PC connection" App offering to connect as Media device(MTP) and/or Camera(PTP) - of course MTP was already checked. This App is not found by a search in phone "Settings". I think if you could find out how to bring this App up manually it would probably solve the issue, because this setting (MTP) is all I ever had to do before with my Galaxy S2, and Ericsson M750.
Had all of the symptoms described by others, nothing else worked.
Turned on hotspotting and the connection still works, but turning it off while USB connected might have triggered something????
So, good luck. I hope this helps.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/22 | 672 | 2,445 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Samsung Galaxy Nexus with Cyanogenmod 11 11-20140225-SNAPSHOT-InstallerXNPQ09P-maguro Android 4.4.2 KitKat with CWM 6.0.4.7. It's a stable installer build.
For a while now I have been getting been getting a 'Unfortunately, Settings has stopped.' error, when trying to simply open Settings from the home screen or application drawer.
It also happens if I try to run the app (`com.android.settings`) in other ways such as opening a third-party keyboard's settings (which tries to open 'Language & input' within the Settings app).
I have tried the following things, to no avail:
* Wipe Dalvik cache in CWM
* 'wipe cache partition' in CWM
* Fix permissions using the 'ROM manager' app
* [Did 'Clear data'](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/69436/what-will-happen-if-i-clear-data-for-the-settings-app-com-android-settings) for the Settings app (by dragging it to 'App info' on home screen)
* Installed [AROMA Filemanager](http://www.digitalreborn.com/fix-process-comandroidphone-stopped-easily/) in CWM, and, not finding anything to delete in `/data/data/com.android.settings/cache/`, but deleting `/data/data/com.android.settings/shared_prefs/CMStats.xml`
* Botting into safe mode, where Settings app STILL crashes.
I will note that the Settings app still sits in the multitasking list, but when you try to open it from there it still gives the same crash error.
I'd like to try and avoid a factory reset if possible, so are there any steps I could try further before an entire factory reset?
Could it be having selected ART mode that eventually mucked up Settings somehow? If so perhaps I could turn it off manually via Terminal/adb and then reset Dalvik again or something?
Whatever it is, what troubleshooting steps could be done in addition to the ones above?<issue_comment>username_1: I had the same problem where settings would keep on crashing. I just got the snapshot today and it did the same thing. After experimenting I fixed it by going in the app drawer and holding on setting, opening its app info, and clearing data. It now opens and works well. I hope this helps.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Going into the app info may also trigger the crash. One possible way to avoid that, is to use adb:
```
adb shell pm clear com.android.settings
```
Now clearing the app data may not be enough. I had to do, as root:
```
rm -fR /data/data/com.android.settings
```
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/22 | 664 | 2,644 | <issue_start>username_0: I've had two Android phone up til now (HTC Wildfire and SGS2). Sometimes they crashed and the only way to get them restart was to remove the battery. Now I'm thinking about buying a Sony Z1 Compact. Removing the battery is no longer something you can do without tools, and looking at youtube videos I think I will never do this.
Now I'm wondering - in those cases where a phone does not react anymore, how can you reboot the phone if you cannot remove the battery? Waiting until the batter is dead is one option, but that could take a day or longer, and is no option either. Or was I too impatient and is it just a matter of waiting?
**In short: Is it always possible to reboot the phone without removing the battery?**
There are many phones out there with a fixed battery, so I'm not the first with this problem. What are your experiences?<issue_comment>username_1: As pointed out by [my other answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/69572/16575 "Resetting an Android device with non-removable battery"), and confirmed by the OP for the given device with reference to a [blog article on the Z1](http://sony-xperia.mobi/eng/sony-xperia-z1-compact/631-sony-xperia-z1-compact-hard-reset-button.html "Sony Xperia Z1 Compact hard reset button"), most devices with non-removable batteries have other means to "disconnect from power", usually "reset buttons" or "reset holes" to be poked with a pen or similar object. This should remedy in situations where the device freezes in a way not even the power button works. But it still leaves the disadvantage of not being able to "switch" the battery to a backup should you e.g. run out of power, of course.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If the device freezes, usually you can long press the power button. Depending on the configuration of the device, it will either turn the device off completely (e.g. Nexus 7, HTC Butterfly S) or make the device do a restart.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: The answer to your original question is no. Sometimes, if a device DOES have an easily removable battery, it will not have a hardware reset option.
You could build an Android device that had no other option to reset besides a battery pull. The manufacturer has to specifically build some form of external reset. If the software is completely locked up then it doesn't matter what options are built into the Android OS.
Usually, the manufacturer is smart enough to include a hard reset option if the battery is not easily removable. If you play the generic tablet lottery, however, you might be lucky enough to find one that didn't.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/05/22 | 286 | 1,174 | <issue_start>username_0: Yesterday I have updated Google Drive and installed Sheets. Since that time I am unable to open the spreadsheets I have created earlier.
When I try to open a sheet, I get `Unable to access document. Please make sure that you are connected to the internet.` I am obviously connected, Firefox works, *I can even open documents*, just not sheets.
If I try to set offline access to these sheets, they keep downloading, just like when I have no internet connection.
Anyone else has this problem, or even better, a solution? I have tried clearing the cache of Drive an Sheets, did not help.
I have a rooted Nexus 4 with 4.4.2<issue_comment>username_1: Used to have the same problem.
In my case, google drive was trying to open the document using Sheets app, but the Sheets app was allowed to access documents only via WiFi connection. Go to Sheets/Setings and uncheck "Transfer files only over Wi-Fi" checkbox. **Be aware, that similar "Transfer files only over Wi-Fi" checkbox is also in Drive app, but this affects only Drive app, not the Sheets app.**
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I just upgraded google drive and it worked.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/22 | 211 | 755 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Droid Razr Maxx HD that just got an OTA update to KitKat. I am wondering if there is a way to remove the camera icon from the lock screen and disable the right-to-left swipe to enable the camera.
I've looked and haven't seen any settings for this... if one even exists.<issue_comment>username_1: You can use a custom lock screen. [Just pick the one that you like](http://www.talkandroid.com/guides/beginner/7-top-lock-screen-replacement-apps-for-android-february-2014/)
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The [Lockscreen Policy](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wordpress.chislonchow.deviceadminkeyguard) app can disable the camera or other widgets from your lock screen.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/23 | 186 | 713 | <issue_start>username_0: I am looking for an app that can send a text to multiple recipients without them being able to respond back to all the other recipients. And also not see who else received the message. Similar to sending out an email with BCC recipients.<issue_comment>username_1: You can use a custom lock screen. [Just pick the one that you like](http://www.talkandroid.com/guides/beginner/7-top-lock-screen-replacement-apps-for-android-february-2014/)
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The [Lockscreen Policy](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.wordpress.chislonchow.deviceadminkeyguard) app can disable the camera or other widgets from your lock screen.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/23 | 400 | 1,525 | <issue_start>username_0: In xPrivacy, I can see that the Play Store asks for `getNfcAdapter`.
What does it need it for?<issue_comment>username_1: >
> [...]If it finds an AAR, it starts the application based on the package name inside the AAR. If the application is not present on the device, Google Play is launched to download the application.
> from:<http://developer.android.com/guide/topics/connectivity/nfc/nfc.html#aar>
>
>
>
So for example, Stores and companys can use a NFC tag to make it easy to install their APPS when you put your mobile on it and so on..
-The second and more likely possibility is that the Google Play Store checks if you can download compatible NFC Apps. The same way as it checks your Android Version.
Here is a dev sight on it:<https://stackoverflow.com/questions/20063853/disable-nfc-compatibility-check-in-android-manifest>
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: The Play Store app has two main features regarding NFC, both of which require the NFC permission.
1. It registers intent filters such that when you scan an NFC tag with a `market://` link or a link to `play.google.com`, you get the Play Store app instead of a browser, the same way you would when you click such a link. This doesn't require calling the `getNfcAdapter` function, but it does use the same permission.
2. It uses Android Beam. If you look at an app's page in the Play Store app, then bring another Android device to NFC range, you can send that app link to the other device.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer] |
2014/05/23 | 404 | 1,418 | <issue_start>username_0: I have SSH server running on an Android phone under GNURoot app with image file for wheezy. The sshd -d on the phone says:
`Server listening on port 2233`
and after I try to login the connection established and then I get:
`chroot(/var/run/sshd)" Operation not permitted [preauth]
do_cleanup [preauth]
do_cleanup
Killing privsep child 18597`
The ssh client on my computer says:
`Read from socket failed: Connection reset by peer`
Anybody has any idea what went wrong?<issue_comment>username_1: Use dropbear instead.
`apt-get install dropbear`
I cannot find any way to avoid chroot error, so I suggest you another ssh server. It works well. :-)
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Please do:
```
su
ln -s /system/bin/busybox /system/xbin/ash
```
You are getting that error because there is no shell for user root to use.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: You can get past the chroot by setting UsePrivilegeSeparation=no in /etc/ssh/sshd\_config, but both openssh and dropbear fail currently on my phone on the latest GNURoot Debian.
They fail with access denied from openpty, so it's a proot bug (and probably not easy to fix.)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: After setting `UsePrivilegeSeparation=no`, I was getting *password login failure*.
But I was able to work around it by adding my public key for key-based login (safer anyway).
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/24 | 405 | 1,484 | <issue_start>username_0: I just changed my background on my home screen on my Galaxy S4 and every time I scroll to a different page the picture moves. How do I get this to stop?<issue_comment>username_1: If you are using Apex launcher, I remember that you can disable scrolling wallpaper in Apex settings, just try to find this option yourself. FYI: Touchwiz launcher doesn't have scrolling wallpaper from Jelly Bean up.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I use wallpaper [Wallpaper Wizardrii™](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.twistedapps.wallpaperwizardrii) from *Google Play Store* which exactly matches your requirement. You can find details in [the app's wiki](http://www.twistedapps.org/?page_id=175).
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: No app needed. Just choose multi picture as wallpaper and add only 1 photo. Crop and enjoy your non moving wallpaper.
KitKat 4.4.2, LG G3. Stock.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: If you have Apex Launcher the follow the below settings,
`Open Apex Launcher > Home screen settings > Wallpaper Mode > Single Screen(non-scrolling)`
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ti06y.png)
Apex Wallpaper Mode Screenshot (Click to enlarge)
The above settings will not scroll if you have/swipe multiple home screen enabled and the wallpaper will be fixed into one screen and not zoomed and hence will be displayed in single screen as the name says.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/24 | 1,283 | 4,886 | <issue_start>username_0: Is it possible to install an older version of an app (via `.apk`), when a newer version is already installed on the device – without rooting and patching system with Lucky Patcher or previously uninstalling the newer version?
### Some background
This may be a weird question. I'm having the situation that I want to root Sharp SH-06E firmware 1.00.08, as described in [this blog post](http://worldtsunami.blog136.fc2.com/blog-entry-52.html).
Firmware newer than 1.00.07 has new root protection. This new root protection involved preventing installation of hacked `VpnFaker.apk` to data partition. Hacked VpnFaker is required for rooting process. The blog says that root is possible if VpnFaker is already installed (used to root on firmware older than 1.00.08), but VpnFaker in data partition on my phone is removed during firmware update. (I was on 1.00.01, root, then unroot to update firmware)
Sharp has a lot of root protection, even on firmware older than 1.00.08, the rooting process uses a workaround that mounts system image file in data partition on boot instead of directly writing file to system partition.
VpnFaker is indeed VpnDialogs of Android System 4.0.4, while newer version installed in system partition is version 4.2.2-1.00.08.
### Final question
So, is there a way to sign 4.0.4 VpnFaker to have the same signature as 4.2.2 VpnDialogs. Here is the [link to the files](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2760470).<issue_comment>username_1: Your ending question differs in a little but significant point from your introductionary question. But let's go step by step:
Sure it's possible to *install* an older version of an app over an already installed newer version. For a user app:
1. make sure you've permitted installation from [unknown-sources](/questions/tagged/unknown-sources "show questions tagged 'unknown-sources'") (see [its tag-wiki](https://android.stackexchange.com/tags/unknown-sources/info) for details)
2. open/launch the `.apk` file using a file manager, web browser, or similar
3. the package installer should fire, asking you if you want to replace the installed app by this "older version".
But be aware that though installation most likely succeeds, the app *might* experience problems if the newer version e.g. had updated the structure of its database (I had this only once yet, and the affected app just force-closed when trying to start it). If in such a case you insist on using the old version, the only way to make it work is to clear its cache and data.
---
Now to your final question. This is not just about *installing* an older version, but about *signing* it. Yes, that can be done as well. You've simply got to ask the developer of the original app to give you his signing key. Trouble is, his answer will (and should) be "no". Alternatively, you might give him the files and ask him to sign them with his key. Assuming it's the manufacturer's company behind it, the expected answer again is a "no", though.
---
So your real question rather reads:
>
> I've got an app already installed on my device. Is it possible to install a different (older) version of it which has a different signature – without rooting and patching system with Lucky Patcher or previously uninstalling the newer version?
>
>
>
The answer is: No, that's not possible:
* Signature check will fail, so you'd have to uninstall the app first when using the "normal approach" as shown above
* Overriding this signature check without root IMHO is not possible
* Changing the signature to match IMHO is not possible unless you've got the developers key
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Answer is Yes :
<https://forum.xda-developers.com/android/apps-games/root-appdowner-downgrade-apps-easy-t2828705>
You *can* downgrade your apps (install lower version over actual (higher) version of app) using android feature "pm install -r -d file.apk" , small and simple app which does everything for you. Just pick APK and click on Install APK. That's it.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: You can downgrade your app easily by apk file from only 2 simple commands in windows. But there are some prerequisites to it.
* Have a computer.
* Adb should be installed in the system.
* Enable developer option, usb debugging and install via USB option in
setting. just go through the internet you will understand how can you
set these developer option.
Then make sure adb connection is there to the device, and run following commands.
Example of windows system:
```
adb push C://path_to_the_app//app.apk /sdcard/app.apk
adb shell pm install -r -d /sdcard/app.apk
```
This downgrades your application to whatever the apk version you have, keeping all the previous data of your app.
Note: Setting up adb and developer option is easier so you can just find it out in internet.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/24 | 1,624 | 5,026 | <issue_start>username_0: **Scenario A:**
1. start Skype
2. do some other work
3. shut down the Android device
**Problem:**
My contacts are still seeing me as being "online".
Strangely enough there seems to be no `heartbeat` feature implemented in Skype.
So even after 1 day my contacts are trying to call me - even though the device is powered off.
Initially I thought this symptom would occur in case i forgot to manually quit the Skype app before shutting down the device.
So i was searching for an answer how to configure Skype to *automatically* log off / quit when the Android device is *shutting down*?
But now it turned out the situation is even worse:
***Scenario B:***
1. start Skype
2. do some other work
3. quit the Skype app
4. shut down the Android device
After step 3 I'm still listed as being "online".
When a contact sends me a chat message it pops up.
So it means: even though Skype no longer appears in the task manager it seems to be running as a `secret, invisible background task`!?
And after step 4 the behaviour is the same as in Scenario A. I'm not transitioning to "offline" state.
**Summary:**
There seem to be 3 problems:
* no heartbeat feature implemented in Skype
* quitting the Skype app is not properly terminating / signing off
* shutting down the Android device also is not influencing the online status
**The only thing that works for me so far:
You must switch to Skype, tap on your profile, at the very bottom *manually* do "sign out".**
That's just not bearable.
This is:
**Android 4.1.2**
**Skype 4.9.0.45564**
**Skype 5.0.0.49715**
**Skype 5.1.0.56619**
**Skype 5.1.0.58677**
**Skype 5.4.0.5871** (at least I'm now showing as being "Away" - instead of "Online")
2015-08-15 - the problem is back and it's even worse:
**Android 5.1.1**
**Skype 5.9.0.14047**
Even though I'm manually signing out, terminating the app and shutting down the Android device I'm still being shown as being "online"!!
--
All of the above tested @ Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 7.0 (WiFi only) / GT-P3110<issue_comment>username_1: OMG, I have found the following posting: <http://community.skype.com/t5/Security-Privacy-Trust-and/Skype-invading-and-changing-people-s-online-status/m-p/2961695/highlight/true#M28546>
According to above the "always on" concept was a *deliberate* decision by Microsoft:
```
(...) we have changed the way online status presence works:
(...) we are showing you as online to your contact even when you left or
force killed the app on your mobile phone (...)
```
They admit that certain scenarios need fixing:
```
Now we've identified a few scenarios where this is simply misleading:
- you've switched off your device
- you've disconnected from the internet (e.g. by switching to airplane mode
and you are somewhere mid flight)
In these occasions you are right now still shown online and we are working to
make Skype presence indicator be meaningful in these scenarios as well.
```
This is just so weird.
They should certainly make it configurable.
**For now the only way to disconnect is to *manually* "sign out".**
Quitting the app isn't sufficient. Shutting down the device is neither.
*Status Update (2015-08-15):*
The problem is back. And it's even worse!
Even though i manually sign out, quite the Skype app and shut down the Android device I'm still being shown as "online"!
Observed with: Skype 5.9.0.14047 @ Android 5.1.1
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Send any of Your contacts:
```
/showplaces
```
It will show You all devices currently online for this account:
```
[18:47:36] System: You have 3 online endpoints:
{25cf308c-73a9-ddfe-c6c7-c4a2507cf657}) my_desktop Linux Skype
{e00a3a04-9ff8-1ad3-4b45-4a3a6d2caf95}) my_notebook Linux Skype
{8440a849-0209-4ffb-25c8-c5bdbbe1035b}) localhost Android Skype
```
Then send:
```
/remotelogout
```
It shokld kick off all devices but current. Now check again by
```
/showplaces
```
It should now be only one connection in list:
```
[18:50:32] System: You have 1 online endpoints:
{25cf308c-73a9-ddfe-c6c7-c4a2507cf657}) my_desktop Linux Skype
```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Each with a Skype account, 5 members of my family and I can confirm the efficacy and success of [the following](https://community.skype.com/t5/Windows-desktop-client/Skype-shows-offline-contacts-as-away/m-p/3871590/highlight/true#M335456) (which is the same as [this on Apple SE](https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/230494)) that solved this problem:
>
> There is an easy way to fix the issue with contact appearing Away while they are actualy Offline. Just log in Skype, open a contact (whoever it is), try sending as an instant message this text:
>
>
> /remotelogout
>
>
> After that try sending this text:
>
>
> /showplaces
>
>
> And finally try sending this text again:
>
>
> /remotelogout
>
>
> You are ready, next time you go offline, you will appear as offline, not as away.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/24 | 552 | 2,244 | <issue_start>username_0: When I connect my android mobile to my laptop, I use the 3G data via USB tethering. Several background activities on my laptop (win 8.1) such as regular updates continuously occur. This drains the monthly package and the allotted download/upload limit is exhausted in no time.
Is there a way to monitor the tethered connection and deny/block background downloading, say of any file(s) larger than 5-10MB?<issue_comment>username_1: On Android 4.0+, there is a section in Settings named Data usage:
When data is enabled, you will see an option to limit your data. Once ticked, two markers labeled 'Limit' and 'Warning' will appear. You can drag them up and down to set their values.
Tapping Menu will give you this:
As you can see, you can toggle background data from there.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: No, that is not feasible. When tethering a connection, your Android device has no idea what the tethered device is doing. It could be downloading a large file, or it could be browsing a bunch of web sites or streaming an audio file. It does not know any useful metadata about the ones and zeros going through its tethering pipe.
Now, you may be able to set up rate limiting so that a tethered laptop can't run faster than X/bytes per minutes, for example. Or, like any firewall, you could block certain services (such as torrenting) using simple port blocking/limiting or other more in-depth packet inspection. You may even block certain domains or IP addresses by firewalling the address.
However, these are all very advanced operations that are far more specific to firewalls than they are to Android. And they would not help at all in your specific example of blocking a download of a file larger than 10 MB.
You are better off looking for a client-side solution. You could get a Download Manager for your laptop and tell it not to download if the laptop is currently on your phone's network connection. Or maybe there's a plugin for your browser that does something similar.
In any case, there is no Android-specific way to handle your specific issue.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/24 | 267 | 1,068 | <issue_start>username_0: I am running Android Jelly bean 4.2.1 on my phone. Once in a while, I get this notification "Your time is close enough" with an android emoticon. This notification then disappears without any explanation what is happening. I searched the internet and saw some other people also got the same notification but no one knows why this happens. Can someone explain what this might be?<issue_comment>username_1: see if you are using "GPS-provided time" in your Date and time Settings
I think it is an improper translation of "Your time is more accurate"
it may be due to some Adware too.Did you try holding the notification and see the "App info" of the notification?
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I also got the same issue i was in search of answer to that but i found out it is not a malware and we ourself enable it on android devices it is an auto update time check nothing to worry about.
If you want to get rid of it, just watch the procedure here
<http://www.technono.com/your-time-is-close-enough.html>
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/25 | 249 | 1,009 | <issue_start>username_0: I had set a security password on my Samsung Galaxy S Duos mobile and unfortunately forgot the unlock password. I tried hundred's of times to unlock my phone with many possible passwords but was unsuccessful in each of my attempts. Please help me unlock my phone and send me the master code (if any) to unlock the phone.<issue_comment>username_1: see if you are using "GPS-provided time" in your Date and time Settings
I think it is an improper translation of "Your time is more accurate"
it may be due to some Adware too.Did you try holding the notification and see the "App info" of the notification?
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I also got the same issue i was in search of answer to that but i found out it is not a malware and we ourself enable it on android devices it is an auto update time check nothing to worry about.
If you want to get rid of it, just watch the procedure here
<http://www.technono.com/your-time-is-close-enough.html>
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/25 | 4,489 | 17,574 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently downloaded [this ROM](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2480246) for my Allview P5 (Allview P5 is the equivalent of Gionee GN700W/FLY IQ441/QMobile Noir A8). It`s called Primonex ROM and is made for the Gionee version of the phone.
* Firstly, I tried to install it as it is but it got stuck at the boot screen.
* After some research I found out that it could be a problem with the `boot.img` file and I don't know how to extract or edit it...
Can someone tell me how to do it?<issue_comment>username_1: Use the [Android Kitchen.](https://github.com/dsixda/Android-Kitchen/) There is an option to unpack/repack boot.img there, under `Advanced options`.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Tools selection
===============
The method I present here relies on CyanogenMod's Android source code.
While Google's AOSP only provides the tool to *build* the `boot.img` file, CyanogenMod also adds the `unpackbootimg` tool allowing you to *unpack* it. This tool does not seem specifically designed for CyanogenMod in any way, so most chances are that it will work for other ROMs as well.
There are, however, a relatively large number of alternatives to unpack the `boot.img` file which all work more-or-less the same.
Basically, such unpack tool will extract the content of the `boot.img` file and display a set of parameters you will have to pass to Google's `mkbootimg` tool to build a file whose configuration (mainly kernel parameters and memory addresses) will match the original one.
Here are a few examples, I did not test them personally so cannot recommend any and I present them only for reference purposes:
* A few are open source or script based:
+ [The Android Kitchen](https://github.com/dsixda/Android-Kitchen/) was apparently meant to be some kind of Swiss army knife for Android developers. The original author officially stopped maintaining the project, a few other users forked it like [javilonas](https://github.com/javilonas/Android-Kitchen) or [cmotc](https://github.com/cmotc/Android-Kitchen).
+ [szym](https://github.com/szym/unbootimg) targets easiness by adding shell script wrappers to its toolset to make the complete unpacking and repacking process more straightforward.
+ [osm0sis](https://github.com/osm0sis/mkbootimg) proposes a fork of CyanogenMod's tools *"forked and updated"* according to the project's own description. This project seems indeed still maintained which is not very common in this area, however the actual advantage over CyanogenMod's original tools remains unclear to me.
* Some are free closed source proprietary binaries:
+ [Kuisma's `unmkbootimg`](http://whiteboard.ping.se/Android/Unmkbootimg) appears pretty often in help forums and seems to do a good job in helping to handle odd cases, outputting "human readable" English recommendation when some modification are required in `mkbootimg` source code and displaying the exact command-line to use to rebuild the image.
+ [Xiaolu's `mkbootimg_tools`](https://github.com/xiaolu/mkbootimg_tools) seems also mentioned quite often and allows to unpack and repack `boot.img` and the device tree file `dt.img`. Don't be fooled by the fact it is hosted on GitHub: it *is* a closed source proprietary binary and only compiled binaries are available on their repository (actually I'm even wondering about the exact interest of using a source-code repository to store binary blobs, but different people, different minds...).
+ [CNexus](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2319018) on the XDA forum provides an archive with a selection of tools.
+ [This answer](https://unix.stackexchange.com/a/65316/53965) in Unix.SE recommends [some tools](http://android-serialport-api.googlecode.com/files/android_bootimg_tools.tar.gz) from the now seemingly defunct Android Serial Port project. The file names, however, lead me to think these should be old prebuilt versions of CyanogenMod's tools (the project being closed, there is neither documentation nor support).
All these tools (and others you may find with any search engine) should work the same way, but some may work better than others in handling some particular edge-case you may face with your own device. Most of them however, at least in the open source arena, do not seem regularly maintained, so the best bet in my opinion to have working, maintained and documented tools is to go with CyanogenMod's ones.
Some manufacturers produce ROMs which are more or less far from AOSP standard (unusual addresses, headers, file format, etc.). If the standard procedure below does not work, maybe one of these alternative software may do the trick. Otherwise, you will have to check for issues specific to your device: some seem to need a specific procedure or even specific tools (confer [this question](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/58825/107603) related to MediaTek devices, for instance).
Tools installation
==================
Compiling CyanogenMod toolset for `boot.img` packing and unpacking is quite straightforward.
* If you already have installed the complete Android source code tree (you can check [my other answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/154947/107603) to get more information about this), go in `system/core/mkbootimg/` directory (as a reminder, Google's AOSP source code only provide the tool to build the `boot.img` file, they do *not* provide any unpacking tool),
* If you haven't and don't need this for any other purpose, an easier and quicker solution is to only clone CyanogenMod's *android\_system\_core* repository:
```
git clone https://github.com/CyanogenMod/android_system_core.git
cd android_system_core/mkbootimg/
```
Once in the right directory, compile and install:
```
gcc -o ./mkbootimg -I ../include ../libmincrypt/*.c ./mkbootimg.c
gcc -o ./unpackbootimg -I ../include ../libmincrypt/*.c ./unpackbootimg.c
sudo cp ./mkbootimg ./unpackbootimg /usr/bin/
```
Note that Google is replacing the C `mkbootimg` with [a Python version](https://android.googlesource.com/platform/system/core/+/ad6ec0c7fe8b5cd80dff619f1d3b6067db85110a), so in future versions no compilation may be needed anymore for this command.
You will also need to install Android tools on your computer to let it communicate with your phone. You will need `adb` (Android Debug Bridge, a shell utility allowing to communicate with Android's debug subsystem), `adbd` (the related daemon) and `fastboot` (a shell utility allowing to communicate with your phone's bootloader system).
Your favorite Linux distribution may provide them in a single or separate packages, but usually they are always called "android-tools":
* Debian / Ubuntu: `sudo apt-get install android-tools-{adb,adbd,fastboot}`
* Fedora / CentOS: `sudo yum install android-tools`
* openSUSE: `sudo zypper install android-tools`
Fetch the `boot.img` file
=========================
Extract the boot.img either from ROM .zip file or directly from the device:
* From the stock ROM .zip file: some applications like SuperSU may modify the boot.img directly on the device, replacing it with the stock one would break such applications.
* Directly from the device: some people report read issue leading to corrupted `boot.img`. IMO, these issues are most likely linked to the use of poor USB cables or USB hub and can be simply avoided by using good quality cables connecting directly the phone to the computer. You also need the ability to run ADB in root mode (depending on the ROM used, this may be trivial or not).
The first method is very obvious: extract the .zip file with any ZIP software, the `boot.img` file should be right there at the root of the archive.
For the second method, you will first have to determine the (sadly device-specific) path to the storage device where `boot.img`'s content can be retrieved. I know two methods for this:
* `ls /dev/block/platform/*/by-name/` (where `*` covers yet another device-specific folder name, chances are it is the only directory below `platform/`), the exact name to search is also platform dependent but makes usual sense (some examples: `boot`, `LNX` (acronym for "Linux")). The files in this directory are actually symbolic links and some people bother to manually go to the target, but I recommend sticking with the higher level name based path which, while longer, remains less error prone. So you will end-up with a path like `/dev/block/platform/sdhci-tegra.3/by-name/LNX`.
* On some (older?) devices, the right device could be found by investigating the output of `cat /proc/mtd`. If you see the device `mtd2` associated to the `"boot"` label, then you will use the path `/dev/mtd2`.
Now:
* From the phone's developer menu:
+ Enable debugging on your phone,
+ Allow root access to ADB (this step applies to phones running CynogenMod, other devices may require some potentially more complex procedure),
* Connect it to your computer (and from there to the VM guest if you are running Android tools from within a virtual machine).
If this is not already done, I recommend to manually start the ADB server on the computer's side, this will allow you to directly validate the RSA key on device's side without affecting the behavior of the following ADB commands:
```
adb start-server
```
Then switch ADB in root mode:
```
adb root
```
Finally, you should be able to directly extract the `boot.img` file from the device using such command (the source and destination path and names are given as examples, adapt them to your needs and preferences):
```
adb pull /dev/block/platform/sdhci-tegra.3/by-name/LNX ./boot.img
```
The command will copy the whole partition, both used and free space, so don't be surprised that the resulting `boot.img` file will be larger than the original `boot.img` file coming with the stock ROM .zip file, the content itself remains similar.
Once the transfer is finished, disconnect the phone and don't forget to disable both debugging and root access from the developer menu.
Unpack the original `boot.img` file
===================================
Unpack the `boot.img` file itself using the command compiled previously:
```
unpackbootimg -i ./boot.img
```
This will output several information essential to let you rebuild a new `boot.img` with the correct structure with respect to the stock `boot.img`. However, don't rush on your notepad since CyanogenMod's `upackbootimg` also saves the very same information in several files we will use later on.
This command generates several files with particular suffixes added to the input file's name:
* `*-second`: This is the second-stage bootloader, optional and rarely used on end-user phones. If this file is empty (the most common case), then the phone's bootloader will directly call the Linux kernel.
* `*-zImage`: This is the Linux kernel.
* `*-ramdisk.gz` or `*-ramdisk.lz4`: the RAM disk used to populate the device's root directory. The extension differs depending on the compression algorithm used.
* `*-dt`: The device tree, populating `/dev`.
* The rest are small files each storing one of the values displayed in `unpackbootimg` output. These values define the command-line parameter to pass to the Linux kernel and the addresses where the bootloader will have to load each object at boot time.
Most often, one unpacks the `boot.img` to be able to edit the content of the phone's root directory. As seen above, this content is stored in the `*-ramdisk.gz` or `*-ramdisk.lz4` file and it can be extracted using the commands below:
```
mkdir ./ramdisk
cd ./ramdisk/
gzip -dc ../boot.img-ramdisk.gz | cpio -imd
```
For an LZ4 compressed RAM disk, replace the last step with `lz4 -d ../boot.img-ramdisk.lz4 | cpio -imd`.
You are now free to do the modification you want before proceeding. However, it could be worth to follow the full unpack - repack - boot procedure once without changing anything to ensure that your tools are working as expected. Otherwise, in case of an issue, you will not be certain if the cause is your modification or some incompatibility (see my remarks at the beginning about some manufacturers requiring non-standard procedures or tools).
Rebuild to get the new `new-boot.img` file
==========================================
CyanogenMod ROM building process relies on an internal tool, `mkbootfs`, to produce the `boot.img` file (this happens in [build/tools/releasetools/common.py](https://github.com/CyanogenMod/android_build/blob/cm-13.0/tools/releasetools/common.py)). However, the steps to build this tool seems uselessly complex to me, whereas using the system-provided `cpio` seems to work just as fine. The main difference between the two, as per my understanding after a (very) quick check in `mkbootfs` souce code, seems to be that the latter applies some sanity measures by not including dotted files and the `/root` directory in the resulting archive while the `cpio`-based procedure below will just blindly put the whole selected directory tree in the archive.
Conclusion: unnecessarily complex to compile with very few advantages, so let's stick on system provided tools!
Begin by creating the new RAM disk, from the `ramdisk` directory created above, type:
```
find . ! -name . | LC_ALL=C sort | cpio -o -H newc -R root:root | gzip > ../new-boot.img-ramdisk.gz
```
Or, if you need to generate an LZ4 archive:
```
find . ! -name . | LC_ALL=C sort | cpio -o -H newc -R root:root | lz4 > ../new-boot.img-ramdisk.lz4
```
The goal here is to create a new RAM disk file with properties as close as possible to the original one (for instance, setting the owner seems often missing in the procedures shared in forums and blogs, however this was required on my device).
Go now in the parent directory to generate the `new-boot.img` file itself.
```
cd ..
```
As seen above, CyanogenMod's `unpackbootimg` command generates a file matching each parameter expected by `mkbootimg`. Therefore, all you have to do is issue a `mkbootimg -h` to get a listing of all parameters, then set each one of them to the appropriate value using the matching file. Note that some parameters expect a file path while others expect to receive the content of the file as value. See an example of resulting command below:
```
mkbootimg \
--kernel ./boot.img-zImage \
--ramdisk ./new-boot.img-ramdisk.gz \
--second ./boot.img-second \
--cmdline "$(cat ./boot.img-cmdline)" \
--base "$(cat ./boot.img-base)" \
--pagesize "$(cat ./boot.img-pagesize)" \
--dt ./boot.img-dt \
--ramdisk_offset "$(cat ./boot.img-ramdisk_offset)" \
--second_offset "$(cat ./boot.img-second_offset)" \
--tags_offset "$(cat ./boot.img-tags_offset)" \
--output ./new-boot.img
```
Only two parameters are not set here:
* `--board`: As per my understanding, this is just an informative field allowing to insert a model name in the resulting image.
* `--id`: This one does not expect any value, it just prints out a unique identifier after the image has been built (combining a timestamp and a checksum).
Flash the `new-boot.img` file onto the device
=============================================
* Start the device in fastboot mode (aka bootloader mode, usually by holding power and volume up buttons).
* Connect the USB cable.
* Check that the device is correctly detected:
```
sudo fastboot devices
```
* Try to boot using the new ROM (without flashing it yet, so in case of issue you just have to restart the phone to get it back on trails, replace the `./new-boot.img` file name with your own):
```
sudo fastboot boot ./new-boot.img
```
* If the phone works successfully with the new boot image, then go back in fastboot mode and flash it permanently:
```
sudo fastboot flash boot ./new-boot.img
sudo fastboot reboot
```
Conclusion
==========
This procedure may seem daunting at first, but once you get it, you will see it is actually not.
The "daunting" aspect comes from the fact that there is not a single "Android system": a lot of manufacturers and ROM providers make changes which can range from a subtle path difference to a completely non-standard environment.
What you have to do is determine your particular device's posture, and then what are the few commands which are appropriate in your case. Once you get them, you can stick to them and even easily script them if you need them often.
I voluntarily went into relatively low-level details sometimes because it will make you troubleshooting your issues more easily. Would you use some "easier" opaque utility to build and flash your new `boot.img` file and see that your device cannot start with it, it would be harder for you to determine which step went wrong. Here, at each step, you will be able to compare the data you are manipulating with the data coming from the original `boot.img` file or the data as seen on the phone, or try for instance to rebuild the `boot.img` file with either the original or the newly generated RAM disk file to check if that makes any difference (this allows you to pinpoint if the issue comes from the `boot.img` or the RAM disk file generation procedure).
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_3: Trying to edit boot.img on some no-name mediatek phone only [Android boot image editor](https://github.com/cfig/Android_boot_image_editor) worked perfectly. It's simple and easy to use. Other tools are either not maintained anymore, or produced invalid boot image.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/25 | 696 | 2,475 | <issue_start>username_0: After using the standard android on my one X+ for a long time, I decided to get started with cyanogenmod today.
I started by using this manual: <http://wiki.cyanogenmod.org/w/Install_CM_for_endeavoru>
I already rooted it a long time ago, so I skipped everything up onto installing recovery.
First I tried installing the enrc2b, but this gave me the error that my phone was a endeavoru (A bit strange, because everywhere they say that's a HTC one X, while mine is definitely a HTC one X+).
After that, I continued with the version for the endeavoru and successfully installed cm-10.2.1-endeavoru.zip on it.
After rebooting it, I got stuck on a endless boot screen of cyanogenmod. I noticed this line in the description:
>
> his device, if unlocked with HTCDev Unlock, must have its kernel
> flashed via fastboot. Extract boot.img from the CyanogenMod .zip
> package and flash it from the bootloader with: fastboot flash boot
> boot.img
>
>
>
I have no idea if I rooted it with HTCDev Unlock, I did it a long time ago, but I thought I would give it a try. After executing fastboot flash boot boot.img I rebooted, and now I am stuck at a endless HTC splash screen.
I can still get to the fastboot and recovery menu, but have no clue where I wned wrong and how to continue. I already tried a factory reset, but to no avail. I also tried getting the backup that I made back from recovery, but it says it can't find any backups.
any ideas how to continue...?
---
I got a little fit further. When I look at the boot screen, it should clearly be a enrc2b
I downloaded cm-10.2.1-enrc2b.zip , extracted boot.img and flashed that onto it. This at least brought me back to getting stuck at the cyanogenmod screen instead of the HTC screen.
After that I tried to install cm-10.2.1-enrc2b.zip onto it, but that's giving me this error:
<issue_comment>username_1: In the CyanogenMod zip's updater script, remove the entire `assert()` line. That will remove the device identity verification and will let the recovery commence flashing immediately.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: reflash the rom, dont reboot into system, reboot to fastboot or bootloader (if so go to fastboot) then do fastboot flash boot boot.img) (you need to extract this from the rom zip you installed)
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/05/25 | 409 | 1,406 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to hide some applications from other people who have access to my phone but be able to get to the application whenever I want. I don't want locking. I need it to be not seen on applications list.<issue_comment>username_1: You could easily hide by using custom launchers like [Apex](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.anddoes.launcher) or [Nova](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.teslacoilsw.launcher).
But if this is not an option, you could try apps available on Google Play like [ [CCSWE App Manager (ROOT)](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ccswe.appmanager&feature=search_result#?t=W251bGwsMSwxLDEsImNvbS5jY3N3ZS5hcHBtYW5hZ2VyIl0) ] or [ [Hide App-Hide Application Icon](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.thinkyeah.apphider) ] which needs root access. \*I want you to read the user feedbacks on Google Play before consider using the app because some said the icon gone forever after it was unhide.
You can also try to Disable the app from Setting -> Apps. This will hide app icon from app drawer. You can enable it again when you need it.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Lucky Patcher does that, but you will have to unhide it to use it yourself.
Home site: www.luckypatchers.com
Be careful when downloading LP :^)
PS: can be used without being root nor the machine rooted (as I do).
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/25 | 445 | 1,837 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to sideload an application, as seen in the picture below.
I have allowed the installation of applications from unknown applied actions in settings, but I can't seem to press the install button. The cancel button works correctly and installing applications via `adb install` works correctly. What's the problem?
EDIT: For those who have this problem, using ChainFire's [C.F. Lumen](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.chainfire.lumen) will correct it because the app uses hardware compositing, and Android doesn't notice a "layer" on top of the current screen.<issue_comment>username_1: Looking at your screenshot, I think you are using screen filtering apps like Twilight, f.lux, CF.lumen or bluelight filter. Try to force stop/uninstall or disable the screen filtering apps and it will work again.
If you are not using any filtering app, try looking for your installed apps that have overlay capability, apps that can show their contents over another apps, apps with overlay permission (like- Messenger, Musixmatch, Touch Assistant apps that can float on your screen).
If you are not sure, try disable them one by one in your `Settings ⇒ Apps` and find which one is causing the problem. You can also look for "Draw over other apps" menu in your android setting where all the apps with this permission will be listed. If you couldn't locate the menu, search for overlay permission + {android version} + {device manufacturer}.
Upvotes: 9 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The following is a community-curated list of some well-known/popular apps that have "Draw over other apps" permission and may cause this issue:
* Twilight
* Pixel Filter
* Facebook Messenger
* Battery Mix
* Samsung S Finder
* DU Recorder
* Lux Lite
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/26 | 529 | 2,159 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a phone that has had WhatsApp installed on for over 2 years now, and the phone number registered for the account is now history (it's been long gone and there is no chance I will get that SIM back because it is from another country).
I got a new phone today with a new SIM, when I start WhatsApp, I put in my old number but it needs to send a message to the number and that is not possible.
Is there any workaround for this, I don't want to lose all my WhatsApp contact.<issue_comment>username_1: If you are concerned about the contacts and not the chat history, then back up the contacts in your old phone and import them into your new phone. Sign in to WhatsApp with your new number and it will read all the contacts in your new phone and your contact will be updated.
The only downside is you need to send a WhatsApp message to all the contacts saying that you changed your number.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: There is a provision in WhatsApp to change numbers. In the old phone (assuming you still have it with functional WhatsApp) in the Whatsapp app, go to Settings > Account > Change number and enter both the numbers (old and new) and confirm.
It should be able to migrate the numbers. Then you can register WhatsApp with the new number on the new device.
Disclaimer: I have not tried it, I am providing a solution only from one of my friend's experience.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Try this:
1. Backup your WhatsApp from old phone using [Helium Backup](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.koushikdutta.backup). Follow the instructions for backing up WhatsApp (or any other application for that matter).
2. Once the backup is complete, you'll find a folder named "Carbon" on your phone storage.
3. Install Helium on the new phone and get this backed up folder on your new phone and place on the same location on the storage.
4. Start Helium and backup WhatsApp using the "Restore and Sync" tab available in the app.
Note that, unless rooted, you need to connect your phone to PC using USB cable to start the backup. Follow the instructions given on Play Store page.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/26 | 619 | 2,476 | <issue_start>username_0: A coworker asked me if I could fix her Samsung Galaxy Note Tab 3, due to her daughter locking the device and not being able to unlock it. I'm an iOS guy but since I'm in the IT department I decided to give it a try, and I looked up how to reset this device to factory settings.
I am able to enter in recovery mode, and I have several options. The one I want, "wipe data/factory reset", is not able to be selected, since the highlighted option in the menu jumps from the item before it to the item after it. In fact, if for example the option is the number 3, I press the volume down key oen time and the highlighted option changes from the 1st item to the 2nd, but if I press again it does nothing. If I press again, it jumps to the 4th item, not giving me the option.
I don't know if this is because of the device, because of Android, or it's just me being ignorant. If any of you could help me out it'll be wonderful.
Thanks a lot.<issue_comment>username_1: I know this answer may be of low quality, having no concrete explanation and all; but sometimes recoveries behave pretty weirdly. Once with my old device, I tried to make a Nandroid backup, and it completed within a few seconds. Seeing that the backup was basically empty, I ran it again, and this time I can't select the nandroid option.
You can try what I did - just select the option with your volume keys as though it's there. Just guide yourself with the highlight.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Aureljared is absolutely right. When you press the down volume and it doesn't go to the factory reset option, press power anyway to select it. Screen will go dark, then pressing a volume key will take you to a weird screen with about 10 no responses and only one yes. Select the yes and you're good to go.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I had the same problem with my Tab 3 too for couple of days I couldn't highlight the data/factory reset option but after persistenting on it , I used the volume key to do the following;
It should be on the rebot option,
PLEASE NOTE; This option will wipe out any data on your Tab 3 completely.
1. Press the volume key Once,
2. then press ONCE again, stop then press the power button to select, ignor the highlight signal.
Now you are the second option;
1. Select rebot and there you go.
You have successfully recover your Tab back to factory settings.
Please give me a feed back.
Thanks
<NAME>
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/26 | 564 | 2,538 | <issue_start>username_0: A Nexus 5, for example, receives the latest android updates instantly.
Is it possible to get this pure version of android on any custom android phone (like Galaxy S3)?
Do note I DO NOT mean:
* Something like Cyanogenmod. While it does eventually give latest android update it is not instant like on Nexus devices. Default google apps are also not installed out of the box or updated automatically.
* A solution that keeps requiring manual install (like a custom mod maybe) everytime a new official version of android is out. I am looking for a solution where after manual intervention once, stock android will be installed and I will receive android updates instantly.
* A specific solution to Galaxy S3. I'm just looking for the term used to have instant automatic updates on your device, I'm very new to Android sorry.<issue_comment>username_1: There is no official stock version of android for many devices.
Updates for for Example an S3 aren't brought by google. They are released by the manufacteur, in this case Samsung.
Android (Stock with gapps and everything) is for Nexus Devices at first. For any other branch you need other kernels, other drivers and whatever.
So if you'd take the master-branch and even compile the source (which is always up-to-date) at your own, it won't work.
So no, unfortunately there is no possibility to recieve the same update as a nexus device at the same time.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: No. When new Android versions are developed by Google, they use the Nexus devices to test and develop them. They co-operate with the vendors of the different hardware and software components inside the device so that all the necessary driver changes will be ready for the new version, and they only announce it when the updates are already available for Nexus devices.
Google works together with the leading handset manufacturers to give them early access to the new Android version and to help them make the necessary changes to support it, but even so, there's always going to be a delay between when the new version is announced and when manufacturer updates are ready.
Third-party ROMs like Cyanogenmod are another option, but as they're made by volunteers without early access to Google's code, they usually become stable much later than official ROMs are released.
So if you're not happy with the timeliness of updates for Samsung devices (or any other manufacturer), your only option is to not buy devices from that manufacturer.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/05/26 | 120 | 502 | <issue_start>username_0: I have created a group for chat on Viber and one person joined the group.
How can I remove that person?<issue_comment>username_1: Viber doesn't provide facility to delete or remove member from group even if your are group admin.
Only option is you leave and delete group and recreate the group without that member.
Sorry
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: just tap and hold the name which u want to delete, a recycle icon will appear , then recycle it that it
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/05/26 | 263 | 1,082 | <issue_start>username_0: I just bought a Sony Z1 Compact with Android 4.4. It has a special camera button on the side. When the phone is off, you can press this button for a longer time, and the camera apps opens directly, even when you have a PIN lock. The lock is not disabled, only for this app. So after making a picture, when you try to open the image, you first have to enter the PIN.
I would like to encrypt the phone, but I'm afraid that this will disable this function. Does anybody knows how this works?
---
**Update: I encrypted the phone plus external SD card, and the camera button still works.**<issue_comment>username_1: I am pretty sure that you wont lose the functionality of lock screen camera. But check once before encrypting because you need to hard reset/repair to decrypt xperia phones.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: What about, if you transfer your data to a computer, then you try to encrypt your phone and if it works, you can transfer data from computer to phone. If it doesn't works, you can still hard reset it.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/05/26 | 264 | 1,138 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to use some my Android device while walking. It is too dangerous to walk while looking at the screen, so I have modified the software I use so that it speaks and beeps so I know what is happening without looking at the screen.
It is still troublesome and dangerous to hold the device and use the touchscreen while walking. I'd rather place the phone in my backpack and hold some very simple controller in my hand.
* Wires or wireless are both okay.
* I don't need many buttons. Just 2-4 buttons is enough.
Is there any controller device which can plug into an Android device so that I can hold just the small controller while walking?<issue_comment>username_1: I am pretty sure that you wont lose the functionality of lock screen camera. But check once before encrypting because you need to hard reset/repair to decrypt xperia phones.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: What about, if you transfer your data to a computer, then you try to encrypt your phone and if it works, you can transfer data from computer to phone. If it doesn't works, you can still hard reset it.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/05/27 | 767 | 2,899 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Nexus 4 with CM (latest version). For the last few months whenever I dial a number it takes anywhere from 5-10 seconds for the actual call to start.
I checked Android SE and didn't find anything except for this: [Dialer app becoming too slow and less responsive](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/15317/dialer-app-becoming-too-slow-and-less-responsive).
However, my case I believe is different. The question above asks about the actual dialer start-up time.
In my case, the dialer is very response: whenever I tap on the Phone icon in the tray, it shows up immediately (the stock Android dialer that comes with CM): I can switch between favourite contacts, recent contacts, search contacts and the dialer with no issues.
However, once I find the contact I need or dial the number and then tap to call, the screen goes black with a spinning wheel in the middle:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1PWwa.png).
Spinning Wheel After Dialing a Number/Contact (click image for larger variant)
This takes about 5-10 seconds like I mentioned.
Once that time passes, it goes to the actual call where I can see the phone number, the contact picture (if available), the drop-call red button, etc.:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VIjoJ.png)
The Actual Call Screen after the Spinning Wheel (click image for larger variant)
What I've tried:
1. Tried using a different dialer thinking maybe it's the issue with the stock dialer: no difference. Tried exDialer and some other, results are same: the dialer itself is snappy, but after tapping the call it goes to the spinning wheel on the black background.
2. I don't think it's a memory issue as I have 2Gb I think. In any case, with all the text messages I have (I don't delete any), all the contacts I have (including hundreds of Google+ random dudes I follow), the Phone app itself is snappy: everything works very quick.
Any suggestions are welcome as it's getting very frustrating! Thanks<issue_comment>username_1: I had the same issue.
So, after a lot of work and tests, I've discovered that what was causing the issue was the Prey app. Do you have the Pray app (or similar) installed on your device, perhaps?
After I've removed it, the dialer came back to work normally.
Hope it helps.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I Uninstalled linkedin and problem went away.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Do you know how you spend hours trying to find a fix and you end up reading the most ridiculous suggestions and you think what an idiot, that can't possibly work...
Well here's one that worked for me: **Settings → Backup & reset → Network settings reset**
Fixed it! Dials within 2 secs now!
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/28 | 778 | 2,916 | <issue_start>username_0: I love so many things about CM10, but the battery life is an absolute nightmare. I made a comparison against the stock firmware by leaving the phone unused for as long as I could. Results:
Stock: **~5.2 days standby** to full discharge
CM10: **~1.7 days of standby** to full discharge
**Is there anything I can do about this, or is CM10 simply not supported properly on my device?**
---
Made these screenshots on my S4 mini by leaving it unused for as long as I could. In the CM10 example it actually powered off due to low battery and I had to plug it in before it would even turn on again, so this is NOT due to any calibration; the battery was *actually* empty at the end of the test. But even if you take the final charge as 15%, the numbers are still atrocious.
<issue_comment>username_1: These are the settings I use on my phone, which have helped with the power consumption.
Under Performance
-> Processor
* CPU governer: ONDEMAND
-> Profile
* Power save
General Settings page
-> Location Services: off
-> Bluetooth off
-> Mobile Data (3g): off
There are also some apps that may be helpful, one of which (I've only heard of it not actually used) is called SnapDragon Battery Guru.
If you can't find the performance settings turn on developer options (instructions [here](http://wiki.cyanogenmod.org/w/Doc%3a_developer_options))
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Calibration needs to be done after flashing a new ROM.
I've solved this problem by using "Battery Calibration" app from the Play store.
<http://username_2petrovic87.blogspot.com/2014/10/cyagenmod-battery-problem.html>
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I'm now on CM11 and battery life remains a constant struggle. There are just too many things that will happily keep the phone awake, almost always due to bugs or incompatibilities. You're lucky when it's just a bad app you've installed: kill it and the problem is gone. But far too often, the thing keeping your phone away is Google Play Services, and then you're basically stuffed.
So my best advice is to simply decide whether a constant battery life problem is worth CM's improvements (it is for me, but it might not be for you).
You should also expect that whenever you do manage to track down and fix a battery life killer, it won't be a week before something else crops up. Just recently I had finally found an amazing fix that made my phone *actually enter sleep*, and it was to set Wi-Fi to turn off when the phone is off. I had a few weeks of bliss, but fast forward to a few days ago and [it's back to the usual battery-eating never-sleeping state](http://www.reddit.com/r/Android/comments/2z5y96/discussion_is_the_new_play_services_7x_presenting/).
So yeah, you will probably experience battery life issues with CM, but I think it's totally worth it.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/28 | 735 | 2,731 | <issue_start>username_0: I am soon going on a field trip and would like to give my friends the ability to use the flash light from the phone without giving them the pattern to unlock the phone. Is that possible to add the flashlight/torch to the locked screen just like the camera?
I have a Galaxy S5 with Android 4.4.2<issue_comment>username_1: Not without a different ROM but you may be able to add one to the notification area. Try [this](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.j4velin.notificationToggle), I don't know how well (if at all) it works on the S5 but it's worth a shot.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Make sure your camera shortcut is on in the lockscreen. Open the camera from the lockscreen, drag your flash setting to the top from the camera settings and make sure it is on. Now all you have to do is open the camera shortcut and click video and your light will stay on. It will also record video while it's on but this is the only way to turn on your flashlight from the lockscreen.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: On the last models of Samsung was easy! Just press the volume key and the flashlight is turning on! (of course you should first to approve this in settings:) When you want to stop it just press the volume down! I have Xcover 1 and 2, I used it a lot, it is easy and good option but sometimes the flashlight was turned on in my pocket of my carhartt jeans and the battery finished very quick. So in settings you can make the flashlight to work only 1-2min. and to stop automatically. I bought S5 Active few days ago and I am very angry that the phone has no same option!!! I see one decision but. To upload a Torch APP and then to switch on this APP with functional extra key, which is over the volume key.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: The S5 Lollipop update now has the flashlight available as a notification sort cut, you can add it to the list of 'quick settings' and just use it that way now. Tested as of today 25.02.2015.0
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: You can try [CM Locker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cmcm.locker) by Cheetah Mobile. This is an iOS based Locker. Give CM Locker a try!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: Turn on the flashlight by holding both **volume keys** with [Torchie - Volume Button Torch](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=in.blogspot.anselmbros.torchie) app.
Or **shake** your phone to turn on the flashlight with [Shake Flashlight](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.androidrocker.shakeflashlight) app.
---
Source: [5 Quick Ways to Turn on the Flashlight on Your Android Device](https://www.maketecheasier.com/turn-on-flashlight-android/)
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/29 | 2,033 | 7,312 | <issue_start>username_0: I was pretty sure this question wouldve been already asked, and I tried hard to find a solution but couldnt find much.
I'm trying to lock/unlock my PC from my Android device. I dont want to use BTProximity to do this because even if I'm in another room in the house, it would be able to detect my phone and unlock the computer. I want finer control over the event that triggers the lock/unlock, instead of relying on proximity.
I would be very happy to use tasker to achieve this, although I'm unable to find any way for my PC to lock/unlock with anything tasker can do.
The solution can either be for Windows or Ubuntu, or both.<issue_comment>username_1: The best integrated solution with your Android phone and PC is to use [Autoremote](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.joaomgcd.autoremote) and [EventGhost](http://eventghost.org/). The general idea is that you use AutoRemote to send a message to Eventghost which then unlocks or locks your PC. The task will look something like this:
```
AUTOREMOTE MESSAGE
DEVICE: NAME OF COMPUTER OR CHROME EXTENSION <----Addressed at the end
MESSAGE: Unlock (Really could be anything)
```
Next is the EventGhost side. Eventghost doesn't always respond especially if your not on the local network but you can get around this with [AutoRemote's Chrome Extension](https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/autoremote/hglmpnnkhfjpnoheioijdpleijlmfcfb)If you have any trouble with AutoRemote, the developer has a [great website](http://joaoapps.com/) and is very active in his [google group.](https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB8QFjAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fgroups.google.com%2Fd%2Fforum%2Fjoaomgcd&ei=6futU_KTA46tyAT464LwCw&usg=AFQjCNFFoKT8woBThxHcX3Go6pMvGIQJbw&sig2=FolcAP_BC4Ehk7iWAW9UfA) The direction to install the AutoRemote plug into Eventghost can be found [here](http://www.eventghost.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=4040&sid=befe584e1795f99a73fd99669992792c&start=15). Here are the steps to create the Eventghost trigger:
1. Create a Macro but don't worry if you can't find the AutoRemote Plugin. This is really a fancy folder
2. Add an event from the toolbar which will trigger the eventghost macro. It should look like this: Autoremote.Message.unlock
3. Next are your actions. [This](http://eventghost.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2796&p=16067&hilit=unlock%20workstation&sid=df0e7ec7436a8c0716d36ba574dd9fd8#p16067) will unlock your work station
If you have any questions feel free to ask them in the comments and I'll do my best to quickly respond.
If my answer solves your problem please don't forget to mark it ask the answer and upvote it for it's usefulness. I'm new and trying to build my reputation here.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I have actually implemented this in a similar manner to username_1. Use his answer to get the framework, and I can provide details. Note that the unlocker program he links doesn't work for Windows 7 and up, but this trick will. For my particular case I used a bluetooth device attached to my workstation for proximity detection but you can do whatever is applicable. Here are the actual details.
Since the PCs I'm working with are behind a firewall, I'm using AutoRemote's Chrome extension redirect which works very well.
**Tasker Bluetooth Near profile**
*Notes:* Ignore the %WorkHint bit, it's for something else. This profile does require that you be paired to the device, but not connected. It isn't terribly responsive (for battery saving reasons) but will detect near/far within a few minutes. Additionally I use a couple other profiles that can trigger an unlock so that it's more responsive but this should get you started. My example sends to an AutoRemote channel (Work) so that it can lock/unlock 2 computers for me.
```
Profile: BT Work Near (166)
State: BT Near [ Name:yourbluetoothdevice Address:* Major Device Class:Audio / Video Standard Devices:On Low-Energy (LE) Devices:Off Unpaired Devices:Off Toggle BlueTooth:Off ]
Enter: Anon (167)
A1: Variable Set [ Name:%WorkHint To:true Do Maths:Off Append:Off ]
A2: AutoRemote Message [ Configuration:Recipient: Group
Message: Unlock
Channel: Work Package:com.joaomgcd.autoremote Name:AutoRemote Message Timeout (Seconds):200 ]
Exit: Anon (168)
A1: Variable Clear [ Name:%WorkHint Pattern Matching:Off ]
A2: AutoRemote Message [ Configuration:Recipient: Group
Message: Lock
Channel: Work Package:com.joaomgcd.autoremote Name:AutoRemote Message Timeout (Seconds):200 ]
```
**EventGhost Lock Macro**
*Notes:* These use a little trick to accomplish lock/unlock. It essentially disconnects from the console session and later reconnects to it for the unlock. It still displays the CTRL-ALT-DEL screen and someone seeking to use the PC would actually have to log in. Note that the reconnect trick will not work if you use the EventGhost lock workstation action or an actual WIN-L lock.
```
xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" ?
System.Execute(u'c:\\windows\\system32\\tsdiscon.exe', u'', 0, False, 2, u'', False, True, u'', False, False, False)
```
**EventGhost Unlock Macro**
```
xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" ?
System.Execute(u'C:\\Windows\\System32\\tscon.exe', u'1 /dest:console /password:yourpassword', 0, False, 2, u'', False, True, u'', False, True, False)
```
I do use a couple other macros to send a notification to my phone when the PCs are locked or unlocked either automatically or manually. I can post those as well if there is any interest.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: You can use an NFC phone to unlock your PC from the LAN, aka scan an NFC tag and login to Windows. On your Android phone, install the following software: NFC Tools, NFC Tasks, Tasker, Unified Remote (all from the play store). On your PC, install Unified Remote server.
1. Configure Unified Remote app on your phone to connect to your pc, communication should set to encrypted
2. Use Tasker to create Unifed Remote (via Tasker's integrated UR plugin) click, tab and stroke events, to automatically type your password for you at the lock screen (list of commands in the proper order that matches your lock screen). You have to play around with it to configure it properly, test tab orders, arrow strokes etc.
3. Use NFC Tools & Tasks to write Unified Remote commands executed by Tasker on any compatible NFC tag.
It will take some time to make it work, but it does and you have to pay a few dollars for some of the apps, they are not all free. The process it's safe if you protect Tasker with a PIN and secure Unified Remote communication. First logon has to be performed in the classic way (keyboard), to allow the Unified Remote server to start.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: [This program](https://www.gadgetish.com/) for Windows does both lock and unlock, allows to adjust the distance (as you requested), notifies your phone if anyone tries to steal your laptop, allows to lock/unlock with your phone fingerprint reader and blocks the screen saver when you are within Bluetooth range.
You'll need to install the program in your Windows PC, an app in your Android phone/smartwach and select a Credential Provider in the lock screen. It is free but has ads on the phone.
The site also has a program for Mac.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/05/29 | 203 | 844 | <issue_start>username_0: Can I set incoming calls to silent/vibrate, but still get an audible notification for texts?
I'd like to be able to set my phone to silent for incoming calls, but still be able to hear incoming texts and other alerts. Is this possible?
Currently (still :( )running Android 4.0<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, you can, by either going to your sound settings setting each tone individually (i.e., ringtone, notification tone, and media tone) or on your home screen just press your volume rocker and from there also you can set the volume differently for all the three.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Settings-> Sounds -> Phone ringtone -> None
Settings->Sounds-> Default Notification Sound -> Any ringtone
Check vibrate on ring
or you can go to the messaging app and set the ringtone from the menu
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/05/29 | 880 | 2,437 | <issue_start>username_0: I made the unfortunate mistake of buying a Galaxy S5 through AT&T and was rewarded with a locked bootloader and no fun whatsoever for any reason ever.
As a remedy, I've considered purchasing a T-Mobile Galaxy S5 and somehow unlocking it (how does that process work again?) for use on AT&T.
Two questions:
1. Will it be compatible with most (if not all) bands on AT&T? (ie: will I lack anything or will I be able to use the network just as well as with the AT&T S5?)
2. How do I unlock a device for use on a different carrier?
According to [AT&T](https://www.att.com/shop/wireless/devices/samsung/galaxy-s-5-charcoal-black.html#fbid=fUFfWuDxx3s), these are the supported bands for the AT&T S5:
1. 4G-LTE: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, and 17
2. 4G: HSPA+ with enhanced backhaul
3. 3G - UTMS: 840, 1900, 2100MHz
4. GSM/GPRS/EDGE: 850, 900, 1800, 1900MHz
According to [T-Mobile](http://www.t-mobile.com/cell-phones/samsung-galaxy-s-5.html?icid=WMM_TM_SMSNGGLXYS_04BTTJZOAN144#features), these are the supported bands for the T-Mobile S5:
1. LTE: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, and 17
2. UMTS: Band 1 (2100), Band 2 (1900), Band 4 (1700/2100), Band 5 (850)
3. "Quad Band GSM" (what bands?)
It seems to be compatible.
See also [AT&T Radio Frequencies](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AT%26T_Mobility#Radio_frequency_summary) and [T-Mobile Radio Frequencies](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T-Mobile_USA#Radio_frequency_spectrum_chart)
**Will it work?**<issue_comment>username_1: Okay, here's what I can gather...
1. There should be no real loss of capability if you move to AT&T. While AT&T does not advertise LTE Band 8 capability on its S5s, Band 8 is largely used in South Korea, Japan, and Taiwan; unless you travel to those places, it shouldn't be a problem. I would, however, check AT&T's [coverage map](http://www.att.com/maps/wireless-coverage.html) to be certain.
2. T-Mobile allows customers to unlock phones provided certain conditions are met. Click [here](http://support.t-mobile.com/docs/DOC-1588) for more information.
Also, "Quad Band GSM" on T-Mobile is 850/900/1800/1900 MHz, same as AT&T
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Yes. T-mobile S5 is my daily driver. I have a T-mo SIM card in it, but every time I go on a road trip up north T-mo contracts their service out to AT&T and my S5 connects to AT&T's towers, telling me so in the notification pulldown bar and the lockscreen.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2014/05/29 | 1,263 | 5,232 | <issue_start>username_0: What is the procedure to change email account which you want to use to make in-app purchase?
Take a look at the image.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PqZyJ.png)
Click to enlarge the image
I am using 2 Gmail accounts and only 1 has a credit card attached. The primary account has a credit card, the secondary does not. But my secondary account is always in the payment dialogue. The secondary account is also not the account used in Play Store app.
I found no way to change this email.<issue_comment>username_1: You need to switch to the proper account in the Play Store app (you may need to add the account under `Settings -> Accounts -> Add account -> Google -> Existing`, if you haven't done so already.)
Tap on the "hamburger" button in the upper-left corner of the Play Store app (the shopping icon,) then tap on the down arrow next to your account to expand it, and select your other account:
You should now be able to purchase apps using the proper account.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I am assuming that you want to switch to your secondary email account in all your apps, which means removing your primary account permanently from the phone (though you can add it later again). In KitKat, if you want to switch to your secondary email, in all of your apps, you need to remove the primary email account from phone.
Go to Settings -> Accounts -> (your primary account)
Now tap on options button, and select remove account.
Reboot the phone, so that the primary account gets removed from all your accounts.
If you don't want to remove your primary account, and you want to switch to your secondary account only in Google play app, see the other answers.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: To do so, you must install the app from the same google account from which you want to make the in-app purchase. Follow these steps,
1. Uninstall the app on the phone.
2. Go to the Play Store site **in your web browser** and find the app. Make sure you're logged into the website with the right account!
3. Install the app through the Play Store by clicking on ‘Install’ button (and selecting your phone).
4. Wait a minute until the app is installed on your device.
5. Make the in-app purchase.
Upvotes: 6 <issue_comment>username_4: I was having the same problem, and all the other answers didn't solve the problem. However I figure a solution to solve the problem. *Please note this works specifically for games, but I have a theory near the end that it will then allow you install apps with the right account.*
The problem lies with what account the downloaded and installed application is associated with. To check which account it is, go to the play store, switch to the account you expect it to be in and then go to the "My Apps & Games". Then pick the secondary tab "All". If the game doesn't appear in this list, then this is the reason you are having a problem. Keep switching accounts and you will eventually find which account it is associated with.
Now let's fix which account it is associated with:
1. First you need to uninstall the game.
2. Then you need to remove the game from the account that it is associated with.
* You do this by doing the same steps as above for checking, then afterwards you need to press the cross ("x") button in the top-right corner to remove it.
3. Open (or download, install then open) the [Google Play Games](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.play.games) app.
4. Make sure you are logged into the correct account (on both `Google Play Games` and `Google Play Store`) you want the game to be associated with by using the hamburger menu on the top-left.
5. Find the game you want to play, and then click on the `store` button (normally the button would read `open` if it was already installed).
6. Install as normal.
7. Open the game and you'll see you can now make in-app purchases to the right account. :D
The steps above seem to force the play store to make sure it associates the game with the right account. I have a theory that after you have done the steps above, you can then search for a regular application and install it and it should be associated with the same account... and will then allow you to do in-app purchases too. I haven't tested this however, since I only needed it to work for games - so feel free to leave comments if my theory is correct.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_5: Go to Settings>Accounts&Sync>(e-mail)>Remove\_Account.
This is if you do not want to re-install the game.
You can just re-add your e-mail account later.!
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: I actually tried many of these suggestions and none of them worked. I have a business account linked to my play store account so it was causing a lot of issues. If none of these suggestions work for you the only thing that fixed it for me was going into my Gmail app and removing that Gmail email address that I didn't want it defaulting to from my list of emails. I can always add the email back but it immediately solved the issue. Hope this helps someone who was having the same issues as me.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/05/29 | 1,214 | 5,120 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to Chromecast a video uploaded to Google+, using my Android phone (Sony Xperia Z). I thought this would be pretty straightforward, as video is already on the net, and it seems the Chromecast has a pretty simple way to just be forwarded an URL and playing it. However, no Chromecast symbol appears when clicking the video in the Google+ app. Anyone knows if this functionality exists or not in the Google+ app?<issue_comment>username_1: You need to switch to the proper account in the Play Store app (you may need to add the account under `Settings -> Accounts -> Add account -> Google -> Existing`, if you haven't done so already.)
Tap on the "hamburger" button in the upper-left corner of the Play Store app (the shopping icon,) then tap on the down arrow next to your account to expand it, and select your other account:
You should now be able to purchase apps using the proper account.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I am assuming that you want to switch to your secondary email account in all your apps, which means removing your primary account permanently from the phone (though you can add it later again). In KitKat, if you want to switch to your secondary email, in all of your apps, you need to remove the primary email account from phone.
Go to Settings -> Accounts -> (your primary account)
Now tap on options button, and select remove account.
Reboot the phone, so that the primary account gets removed from all your accounts.
If you don't want to remove your primary account, and you want to switch to your secondary account only in Google play app, see the other answers.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: To do so, you must install the app from the same google account from which you want to make the in-app purchase. Follow these steps,
1. Uninstall the app on the phone.
2. Go to the Play Store site **in your web browser** and find the app. Make sure you're logged into the website with the right account!
3. Install the app through the Play Store by clicking on ‘Install’ button (and selecting your phone).
4. Wait a minute until the app is installed on your device.
5. Make the in-app purchase.
Upvotes: 6 <issue_comment>username_4: I was having the same problem, and all the other answers didn't solve the problem. However I figure a solution to solve the problem. *Please note this works specifically for games, but I have a theory near the end that it will then allow you install apps with the right account.*
The problem lies with what account the downloaded and installed application is associated with. To check which account it is, go to the play store, switch to the account you expect it to be in and then go to the "My Apps & Games". Then pick the secondary tab "All". If the game doesn't appear in this list, then this is the reason you are having a problem. Keep switching accounts and you will eventually find which account it is associated with.
Now let's fix which account it is associated with:
1. First you need to uninstall the game.
2. Then you need to remove the game from the account that it is associated with.
* You do this by doing the same steps as above for checking, then afterwards you need to press the cross ("x") button in the top-right corner to remove it.
3. Open (or download, install then open) the [Google Play Games](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.play.games) app.
4. Make sure you are logged into the correct account (on both `Google Play Games` and `Google Play Store`) you want the game to be associated with by using the hamburger menu on the top-left.
5. Find the game you want to play, and then click on the `store` button (normally the button would read `open` if it was already installed).
6. Install as normal.
7. Open the game and you'll see you can now make in-app purchases to the right account. :D
The steps above seem to force the play store to make sure it associates the game with the right account. I have a theory that after you have done the steps above, you can then search for a regular application and install it and it should be associated with the same account... and will then allow you to do in-app purchases too. I haven't tested this however, since I only needed it to work for games - so feel free to leave comments if my theory is correct.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_5: Go to Settings>Accounts&Sync>(e-mail)>Remove\_Account.
This is if you do not want to re-install the game.
You can just re-add your e-mail account later.!
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: I actually tried many of these suggestions and none of them worked. I have a business account linked to my play store account so it was causing a lot of issues. If none of these suggestions work for you the only thing that fixed it for me was going into my Gmail app and removing that Gmail email address that I didn't want it defaulting to from my list of emails. I can always add the email back but it immediately solved the issue. Hope this helps someone who was having the same issues as me.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/05/29 | 551 | 1,966 | <issue_start>username_0: Is there a way to disable all USB functionality except for charging? I don't really use MTP or PTP and would like to disable it if possible.<issue_comment>username_1: Go to Settings → Storage and tap on the overflow menu in the top right (on a device with a physical menu key, you may need to press that instead). This should bring up a menu item labeled "USB Computer Connection":
Tap on that, and it will give you a list with possible connection modes. Uncheck everything that you don't intend to use. On my N5/CM11 there are only two options on this page: MTP and PTP. Unchecking both causes the phone to simply charge when plugged into a PC. I have seen others that have an explicit "Charge Only" option, but I believe that is nonstandard.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The most device-compatible way to disable *everything* is to run this command at startup or set this in your build.prop:
```
setprop persist.sys.usb.config none
```
which is equivalent to **charge-only** on *all* Android devices.
That also disables adb. If you use adb regularly, then:
```
setprop persist.sys.usb.config adb
```
will allow adb when developer options are turned on/checked. If you don't use ADB often, I would not recommend it, because setting `adb` causes my S5 to still recognize in device manager, even when it is locked.
To restore original functionality,
```
setprop persist.sys.usb.config mtp,ptp,adb
```
allows all USB protocols.
Hope this helps anyone Googling for an answer.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: * click 5 times on **SETTINGS>ABOUT PHONE>MODEL NUBMER**
* then **DEVELOPER OPTIONS** will be added in main settings (in bottom). Enter there and choose **USB SETTINGS> CHARGING|MTP.**
([Source](http://en.code-bude.net/2013/03/05/how-to-activate-usb-mass-storage-and-developer-options-on-cyanogenmod-10-1/))
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/05/30 | 951 | 3,735 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been looking all over for a proper explanation of how to delete photos from the device (nexus 5) to reclaim some space, while being sure that the pictures are still in the Google+ backup.
Unfortunatley i have not found one, other than "wild claims" it works somehow, while other say it does not.
Plus deleting photos via the Pictures app actually warns you (now?) that it will delete the backed up copies too. Do i have to delete them in the Gallery app?
I did delete some photos recently, and i was quite sure they ware still backed up (still showed up on the Google+ website) but looking now i see they are in the trash in the device.
Is there really no way to be able to know for sure if the pictures are backed up savely while i can delete them from the device?
Alternatively i'm also open for alternative solutions to this problem, or i just go back to the "good old copy and paste when plugging the phone".<issue_comment>username_1: I'm not a big "Cloud fan" (au contraire, I'm avoiding it wherever possible), so my suggested approach is a little different – though it should work with the cloud as well:
For a comparable task, I'm using [FolderSync](http://www.appbrain.com/app/foldersync/dk.tacit.android.foldersync.full). It supports a load of protocols (FTP, FTPS, SFTP, WebDAV, Samba/Windows Shares) and even Cloud services (OneDrive, Copy.com, Dropbox, Dump Truck, SugarSync, Bitcasa, Ubuntu One, Box.net, LiveDrive, HiDrive, Google Docs, NetDocuments, Amazon S3). You can define "folder pairs", i.e. one local folder and one corresponding remote folder) to be synchronized. You can have that synchronisation done manually, automatically based on a schedule, or have it triggered by [tasker](/questions/tagged/tasker "show questions tagged 'tasker'").
Now for our "special case": you can define how the synchronisation shall be done:
* local <-> remote: changes are synchronized both ways
* **local -> remote: only changes on your device are transfered to the remote**, not the other way around
* local <- remote: the opposite direction
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/g5nH7.png)
Folder Pairs in *FolderSync* (source: Google Play; click image for larger variant)
Plus you can specify what shall be done when a file no longer exists "on the other side", e.g. leave it untouched in your case.
So with a one-way sync "local → remote" and "keep option", you should have a solution to your problem. Only thing missing might be the "immediate backup" whenever a picture has been taken – but if a "delay" seems "impractical", you still can approach that via *Tasker*.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: With the latest update to Google+ something changed in the Photos app. To ensure you are deleting the right pictures take the following steps:
Go into the Photos app
Click on the top left corner for the side menu
Scroll down to Folders and click on it
You will be presented with the different folders on your phone. Delete everything from there and check your storage again.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: Ok I think I cracked the problem. To perform one way backups from your android to the cloud:
1. Go to settings->accounts
2. Click on your gmail address(google account)
3. Un-click everything you do not want synced (2 way- to cloud and
back).
4. Then Open the Photos app
5. Touch the menu button or icon and select Settings.
6. Touch Auto Backup and switch the toggle On.
There is a feature for backing up all photos now also.
Now you can delete photos from your phone after they are backed up, and they will not come back. The deleted photos will remain on google+.
This is working on my Samsung 5
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/05/30 | 228 | 916 | <issue_start>username_0: On most operating systems, there's a keyboard shortcut to trigger a keyboard-driven app-launcher.
For example:
* On Windows: `Super` and start typing.
* On OSX: `Super`+`Space` and start typing.
* Linux: it varies, but same as OSX on Elementary OS.
Is there an equivalent launcher available for Android where I can push a key combo and start typing to find the app I'd like to launch?<issue_comment>username_1: On the stock Google launcher, if you simply start typing, it'll search for the thing you typed for, both online and in local apps. You can cycle through the matches with the arrow keys, and launch one with `Enter`.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I found that "alt-d" from the home screen when to the application launcher (though I needed to press some keys to get to the search box).
This was documented in the key-list that you could pop up with windows-/.
Upvotes: 0 |