date stringlengths 10 10 | nb_tokens int64 60 629k | text_size int64 234 1.02M | content stringlengths 234 1.02M |
|---|---|---|---|
2014/02/03 | 718 | 2,782 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Nexus 4 running 4.4 (Kitkat) and I use the Music Search widget while listening to the radio on my car.
I have discovered the name of that song or artist I wanted to know many times, but now I realize I can't seem to find my music "search history."
Can anyone point me in the right direction? Is this in the (Play) Music App or Settings? I've looked everywhere! Reading thru the Google Help led me no where...
UPDATE: I answered my own question and cleared up the issue, giving credit where due. BTW the picture above was from illustration purposes only, and apparently from a device that has the Sound Search widget history disabled. Sound Search History is not available is some countries.<issue_comment>username_1: My widget has the clock icon at far right which when pressed shows the history. Maybe your screen is not wide enough for it? Their is a music search sync option in your Google account settings in "Accounts & Sync", although I don't think that is the issue. Will keep researching.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Correct answer was pointed to in the comments by RossC. Thanks! I'm writing my own here since it's been a while and he didn't write a proper answer I could have selected(!).
I did a bit more research to expand on what he found, while also clarifying the original issue which was partly PICNIC...
RossC wrote:
>
> According to here it may only be in the US and depend on what version you have.
> reddit.com/r/Android/comments/14r6m7/… Apparently the 'clock' icon will do it
> reddit.com/r/Android/comments/1p7d0w but I don't have that on mine ...
>
>
>
So the second link above gives the answer: On the device one cannot access the Music Search History from anywhere *but* thru the widget's "clock" icon. Since I only had the widget placed in the lockscreen so I did not see the icon while I was actually actively using my phone (unlocked) to look for its history. I can only access the history from the lockscreen widget, that is unless of course I put the widget on one of my panels, which is unnecessary since Google Now can also do music search (just say "what's the song" or similar).
Apparently the Music Search is also unavailable in some countries, so YMMV.
Also, I found out [here](http://googlesystem.blogspot.com/2013/12/sound-search-playlist-in-google-music.html) you **can also access your sound search history on your desktop/laptop** by logging into your Google Account and going to this hidden(?) "auto-playlist" link (I couldn't find anywhere in Play Music site UI):
<https://play.google.com/music/listen#/ap/sound-search>
Hope this clears a few mysteries regarding Sound Searches and its widget.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2014/02/03 | 256 | 996 | <issue_start>username_0: Facebook Messenger for Android requires a lot of permissions - like reading my SMS and other stuff. I really don't like that. Is there any fb chat application which doesn't require such permissions?
In fact i would only need a notification when there is a new message.<issue_comment>username_1: You can use [ChatSecure](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=info.guardianproject.otr.app.im) (formerly known as “Gibberbot”) with Facebook added as an XMPP account. Just enter `<EMAIL>` and your Facebook password to connect.
For even more protection of your details you can use the "Connect via Tor" option with Orbot (the Android port of Tor) to hide your location from Facebook as well.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You can do what Andrew said, or you can download App Ops and remove the permissions from the app iteself
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.colortiger.appopsinstaller&hl=en>
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/02/03 | 978 | 3,764 | <issue_start>username_0: I've got brand new, factory-based, un-tweaked ASUS Nexus 7 II (2013) LTE tablet and I'm completetly unable to copy more than just a few files between my PC and tablet.
Steps, that I repeat every time are painfully obvious:
* plugs these two devices together,
* wait until Nexus device appears in Windows,
* open source folder window (any on Windows disk),
* open destination folder (any on my Nexus device),
* select some files or folders in source and drag them to destination.
Copy process starts and stops after sending about 10-20 files. On Windows side, copy progress freezes forever. On Nexus side, you see beatuful message saying that `com.android.media` process is halted.
I can repeat these steps over and over again. Changing cables, using different computers, restarting source computer or Nexus itself, all for nothing -- my Nexus 7 breaks file transfer after receiving about 20 files (sometimes it breaks after getting just one).
I know, that MTP protocol is very, very unstable and forcing users to use it (i.e. removing native USB support in Android 4.x) is a Google very not funny joke. But, for God sake, how can I copy my 20k photo collection to my brand new Nexus tablet, if it breaks copy transfer every tenth files?
Is this an identified bug, or with Android 4.4.2 Google decided, that we won't be able to copy files to our own devices at all? And the only way to get them there, will be to use stupid Google Drive?
Is there any fix or work-around to this problem? Other than my own solution, as stupid as setting up local FTP server, installing FTP client to my Nexus and copying files that way, through FTP protocol?<issue_comment>username_1: MTP issues, related to Drivers. Also present on 2012 Nexus 7. I've learned that you're better off using a 3rd party software like Wondershare mobile GO or Moborobo etc to transfer files. Other stuff they can do is a bonus. Try it, you will like it.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_1: Another option would be to use Solid Explorer Pro. Check out its "File Sharing" option and create a FTP server with password protection. Then create its widget on your home screen.
Now, in your PC > My Computer ... Right Click in an empty area > Add a network location ... Now add that FTP address you created in your tab.
This method is HIGHLY convenient for you but might give trouble on large file transfers (due to MTP) so better use it only with music or photo transfers.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I was in the same boat as you for a while. I guess you could use FTP but I was looking for something more.
I now use [AirDroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sand.airdroid) to transfer files over Wi-Fi. I have transferred files as big as 10GB and have no complaints. Plus it saves messing around with the cable and drivers.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I use either FTP (FastFTP on the Nexus, Cyberduck on the Mac), or more often, Dropbox, which is always running on my desktop, and DropSync Pro on the Nexus. Then files just 'appear' on the Nexus, possibly after a manual sync if I want to use those files before the next DropSync autosync is due (I keep it infrequent for battery life).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I had the same problem, and it was being caused by the 360 Security app. Uninstalling that fixed the issue.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_5: See <https://support.google.com/nexus/answer/2840804?hl=en#ts=3457048>. I tried the suggestion to change the storage setting to PTP which led to a new hardware installation of software on my (Windows) computer, and then rechecking MTP, which also led to software installation. After that, I was able to use the USB connection for file transfer.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/03 | 883 | 3,230 | <issue_start>username_0: I rooted my phone a month ago and downloaded the SuperUser app yesterday.
However, when I use the app SuperSU, it is not running and it said i need to update a file. I could not update it.
What can I do? How can I remove SuperUser?<issue_comment>username_1: If you already have a custom recovery (ClockworkMod or TWRP) installed then you should be able to flash the [Superuser](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.koushikdutta.superuser) recovery zip which will remove any other binaries/files related to other superuser apps in the process.
The SuperSu app may still be installed but you can un-install that yourself as you would any other app.
Quote from Superuser play store description:
>
> Manual installation with the recovery zip:
>
>
> Recommended if you are having installation issues or are not rooted
> <http://download.clockworkmod.com/superuser/superuser.zip>
>
>
>
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: If you have installed them as system apps, use any root browser and delete apks from /system/apps, else, delete them from /data/app and then install anything you like from Play Store. Do NOT flash zip or Google Play updates and any apk of that app will not install.
P.S. SuperSU has uninstall option.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Download 360 Security. Make sure that you are accepting the Permission (Don't Deny it). Open 360 Security--> Apps Uninstall--> select System Apps--> select Super User--> click on Uninstall.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: 1. Run the SuperSU app. If you’ve uninstalled it for whichever reason, all you need to do is Reinstall it from the Google Play Store.
2. Click on the Settings tab on the top right corner, and then click Full Unroot. Confirm with 'Continue'.
3. Once this operation is done, which takes a few minutes, you can reboot your Android.
4. Uninstall SuperSU.( If Exists.....)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: Update supersu
ignore binary installation if prompted
go to settings select "clean up for other supersu app (wait for it to uninstall)
Reboot device and voila I just tried that not 10 minutes ago. I've had that problem for some time and that finally got rid of it not a trace of it on my phone
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: **How to fix the SuperSU binary file issue (at leat on the MXIII-G player)**
Install a terminal app from the playstore and connect so you get the prompt.
Become root and check how the /system partition is mounted as read-only (ro), In particular note the device
```
$ su
# mount | grep system
/dev/block/system /system ext4 ro,relatime,barrier=1,data=ordered 0 0
```
Remount the partiton in read-write mode (rw)
```
# mount -o rw,remount /dev/block/system /system
```
Finally check if it was mounted in read-write mode (rw)
```
# mount | grep system
/dev/block/system /system ext4 rw,relatime,barrier=1,data=ordered 0 0
```
Update the SuperSU via the Play Store and reboot when done.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_7: Download Kingroot. If it works on your phone. Then just root the phone using Kingroot. Once in Kingroot, click more options, Uninstall tool, built-in, select "supersu", and simply delete it. Voila, it's gone.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/03 | 978 | 3,632 | <issue_start>username_0: Our system at work is automated. Sometimes a machine stop and we get the fault popping up on a android device everyone is carrying.
It's a Cat B15 Mobile with Android 4.1.
We are carrying the phone with a holder around our arm.
If the screen is on all the time, the battery drains out pretty fast.
So I want to make the device to shut down the screen, and when I touch the screen it will start again.
Right now it's a little complicated to press the on and off button. Because the holder is blocking it.
Anyhow, if this was a possibility it would make everything a lot easier!
I checked the settings but didn't see anything about it.<issue_comment>username_1: If you already have a custom recovery (ClockworkMod or TWRP) installed then you should be able to flash the [Superuser](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.koushikdutta.superuser) recovery zip which will remove any other binaries/files related to other superuser apps in the process.
The SuperSu app may still be installed but you can un-install that yourself as you would any other app.
Quote from Superuser play store description:
>
> Manual installation with the recovery zip:
>
>
> Recommended if you are having installation issues or are not rooted
> <http://download.clockworkmod.com/superuser/superuser.zip>
>
>
>
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: If you have installed them as system apps, use any root browser and delete apks from /system/apps, else, delete them from /data/app and then install anything you like from Play Store. Do NOT flash zip or Google Play updates and any apk of that app will not install.
P.S. SuperSU has uninstall option.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Download 360 Security. Make sure that you are accepting the Permission (Don't Deny it). Open 360 Security--> Apps Uninstall--> select System Apps--> select Super User--> click on Uninstall.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: 1. Run the SuperSU app. If you’ve uninstalled it for whichever reason, all you need to do is Reinstall it from the Google Play Store.
2. Click on the Settings tab on the top right corner, and then click Full Unroot. Confirm with 'Continue'.
3. Once this operation is done, which takes a few minutes, you can reboot your Android.
4. Uninstall SuperSU.( If Exists.....)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: Update supersu
ignore binary installation if prompted
go to settings select "clean up for other supersu app (wait for it to uninstall)
Reboot device and voila I just tried that not 10 minutes ago. I've had that problem for some time and that finally got rid of it not a trace of it on my phone
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: **How to fix the SuperSU binary file issue (at leat on the MXIII-G player)**
Install a terminal app from the playstore and connect so you get the prompt.
Become root and check how the /system partition is mounted as read-only (ro), In particular note the device
```
$ su
# mount | grep system
/dev/block/system /system ext4 ro,relatime,barrier=1,data=ordered 0 0
```
Remount the partiton in read-write mode (rw)
```
# mount -o rw,remount /dev/block/system /system
```
Finally check if it was mounted in read-write mode (rw)
```
# mount | grep system
/dev/block/system /system ext4 rw,relatime,barrier=1,data=ordered 0 0
```
Update the SuperSU via the Play Store and reboot when done.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_7: Download Kingroot. If it works on your phone. Then just root the phone using Kingroot. Once in Kingroot, click more options, Uninstall tool, built-in, select "supersu", and simply delete it. Voila, it's gone.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/03 | 1,724 | 5,858 | <issue_start>username_0: I have my music from CD in both MP3 and FLAC format. Unfortunately, the Google Music uploader insists on uploading both formats, and so I have duplicate tracks. Is there an app/tool/method to find and remove these duplicate tracks from the cloud?<issue_comment>username_1: Other than storing them in seperate locations and specifying where the files you want are or manually going into google music on your pc or phone and deleting them, no. But even if you delete them once the music manager catchs them missing and you havnt changed the folder it will reupload them at least it used to.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: In a desktop computer,you can run [Google Music Dupe Killer](https://github.com/maxkirchoff/google-music-dupe-killer) script. If you are not used to computers, it is not trivial, but doable. You have to install the [Python language](http://www.python.org), and follow the instructions in the script site.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: From a PC running Windows 10 x64 (64-bit):
1. Install the latest Python **2.7**.x version. (I used Python **2.7.10**; Do not use any Python 3.x.y version -- I couldn't get it to work with this script.)
2. If using Windows, install the [Microsoft Visual C++ Compiler for Python 2.7](https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=44266). One of the dependencies of `gmusicapi` requires it.
3. Install the [Google Music API](http://unofficial-google-music-api.readthedocs.org/en/latest/usage.html#usage) for Python. You should use "pip" (Python's built-in installer script) to install it. On Windows, pip is not added to the PATH environment variable. The quick, lazy workaround is to invoke it specifically:
```
C:\Python27\Scripts\pip.exe install gmusicapi
```
4. See footnote if you're having issues. `LibAV` or `ffmpeg` are probably not required for our purposes.
5. On the right side of the [Google Music Dupe Killer page](https://github.com/maxkirchoff/google-music-dupe-killer):
* Click "download ZIP" → Extract the ZIP → Rename **kill-dupes** to **kill-dupes.py** → Right click → edit with Notepad (or Notepad++, or anything similar) → Ctrl-F ("find") for "username".
* On line #89, you'll see this (line numbers added for ease of reading):
```
88. api = Mobileclient()
89. logged_in = api.login('username', '<PASSWORD>')
90.
91. if logged_in:
```
6. Replace the word **username** with your Google username, and the word **password** with your Google password. Leave the single-quotes **'** as-is. Save the file with the edits you made.
7. [Allow less secure apps to access your account](https://www.google.com/settings/security/lesssecureapps) via Google. If you don't do this, Google will email you telling that they blocked someone accessing your account the first time you run the script. In that email, there is a link to change the setting.
(**Note**: you may wish to change it back after you are done with this script.)
8. Put the modified `kill_dupes.py` script somewhere you can find it. I put it in `C:\Python27\`.
9. Open the Windows command prompt. (`Win`+`R` opens the **Run** dialog, **cmd** is the command prompt. Press `Enter`.)
* You'll see a Window with this written:
```
C:\Users\YourWindowsUsername>
```
* Run Python with the script you made:
```
C:\Users\YourWindowsUsername>c:\Python27\python.exe c:\Python27\kill_dupes.py
```
* Press `Enter` to run the script:
```
Successfully logged in. Beginning duplicate detection process.
```
* The program prints a list of the duplicate tracks it found. Type `y` and press `Enter` to remove them, or `n` to not remove them.
* `kill_dupes.py` and maybe its parent program `gmusicapi` crash on [Unicode characters](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unicode) like `つんく♂`. Here is the [bug report](https://github.com/maxkirchoff/google-music-dupe-killer/issues/3). Oddly enough, by running the script from IDLE, it worked fine. IDLE should be included with all Python installs.
* `IDLE (Python GUI)` → `file` → `open` → `kill_dupes.py`
* `IDLE (Python GUI)` → `run` → `run module`
* **If you just see a blank window, you probably forgot to allow less secure apps to access your account.** See step 7.
10. (Optional) [Forbid less secure apps from accessing your Google account](https://www.google.com/settings/security/lesssecureapps).
I used the [answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/109073/96277) by [username_2](https://android.stackexchange.com/users/36675/username_2) to develop this answer.
Footnote: Installing LibAV
==========================
* This probably isn't required, but it's what I did the first time I did this. I have since successfully removed duplicates without LibAV, but I **did** have `ffmpeg` in my PATH already. The reason I say this step isn't required is because the [Google Music API website](https://unofficial-google-music-api.readthedocs.org/en/latest/usage.html?highlight=libav) says:
>
> If you’re going to be uploading music, you’ll likely want Libav’s avconv installed and in your system path, along with at least libmp3lame.
>
>
>
Update 2016-01-09: The site now says:
>
> The only time avconv or ffmpeg is not required is when uploading mp3s without scan-and-match enabled.
>
>
>
Use your judgment as to whether or not installing LibAV is needed.
* Download the newest (sort by date modified) "nightly-lgpl" x86\_64 variant of LibAV. It's linked from the site given in step 2.
* I downloaded `libav-x86_64-w64-mingw32-20150524.7z` → extracted the `.7z` file → added the `/usr/bin folder` within the extracted `libav` folder to the PATH. (The steps are explained in the link in *step 2.* lat ays to add (Python's built-in installer script) `avconv.exe` to the PATH. So my computer now has `D:\Downloads\libav-x86_64-w64-mingw32-20150524\usr\bin` added to its PATH.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2014/01/31 | 1,424 | 5,104 | <issue_start>username_0: I've read through the thread below and come across 2 solutions for connecting a device with ADB.
<https://stackoverflow.com/questions/4893953/android-run-install-debug-applications-over-wifi/19940301#19940301>
The first is to use USB, and this isn't an option because the USB port is busted on my Droid Razr Maxx. The second is via wifi but using root permissions.. and I don't really want to root my phone.
Can't I use strict WiFi without root to set up ADB?<issue_comment>username_1: I have not tried this myself, but there's an app named [ADB Wireless (no root)](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=za.co.henry.hsu.adbwirelessbyhenry) which, as the name suggests, claims to make this possible without involving root:
>
> This app is for developers wanting adb access over WiFi without rooting your phone.
>
> …
>
> \*\*\* NO ROOT REQUIRED \*\*\*
>
>
>
Usage instructions can be found on the app's playstore page – looks pretty easy and straight. And the permissions look phantastic: nothing that's not necessary or explainable. In fact, just a single one to view WiFi connections. So no ads or spyware to be expected ;)
---
Same to be said for an app called [ADB Wireless (no-root)](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sherdle.adbwireless) (yes, same name – different dev), which seems no longer maintained though (last release was 6/2013):
>
> the first android application in the Google Play store to provide a wireless ADB connection without root.
>
>
>
Asks a few more permissions (a.o. full network), though.
---
Note however that ***all those non-root solutions seem to require a (USB) cable connection for initial setup*** – so there's probably nothing for your special case.
---
### Conclusion:
No app for that if your USB port is busted. So unless you get your busted port repaired or root your device, I see no way to get ADB running wirelessly. As initialization requires more permission as any "standard user" on Android gets, there are no command-line tricks either unless you already have root access: the initialization via USB makes use of the ADB daemons elevated permissions, which are only accessible that way.
### For other readers:
Initial phrasing of my answer omitted that fact, as the OP's USB port is broken/unusable: If your USB port is in working order, and you can use an USB cable to connect to it, you won't need any of those fancy enabler apps (see [here](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists/category/named/network_admin_adb) for more) just to be able to use ADB wirelessly (though some might come in handy if they e.g. offer a [tasker](/questions/tagged/tasker "show questions tagged 'tasker'") plugin, so you could enable wireless ADB in your home network automatically and turn it off when you leave it). As Firelord pointed out in his commend, and Lucky linked to [a post on SO](https://stackoverflow.com/a/14357876/1793718), steps to enable wireless ADB are easy then:
1. enable [usb-debugging](/questions/tagged/usb-debugging "show questions tagged 'usb-debugging'") on your device
2. connect your device to your computer via USB cable
3. run `adb tcpip :` (e.g. `adb tcpip 192.168.1.50:5555` – find the correct IP address in the wireless properties of your Android device) on your computer
4. still on your computer, run `adb connect` (e.g. `adb connect 5555`)
5. unplug your USB cable, it no longer needs to be attached – ADB now runs via WiFi
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: If you've never connected your phone to the computer before, you may be out of luck. Since the later versions of 4.X, (I think at least JB 4.3), you must authorize the host computer to connect via ADB, which will popup the first time you connect with USB.
When using Wifi, this authorization MUST already be established, or it will not accept the ADB over Wifi connection.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: This is now possible for devices running Android 11 or higher.
There's `Wireless debugging` menu under `Developer options`. The pairing is done using a 6-digit pairing code, or a QR code.
To use the pairing code:
1. get the IP address, port and Wi-Fi pairing code from `Developer options/Wireless debugging`/`Pair device with pairing code`,
2. Using a terminal, pair the device:
```
adb pair IP:port pairing-code
```
You're now ready to connect. Get your port number from the `Wireless debugging` screen on your phone (beware, the connection port will most likely differ from the pairing one) and connect from the terminal:
```
adb connect IP:port
```
The menu options may be named slightly differently on your Android build. The ones above are from Android 11, running on `Mi 9T` with `MIUI 192.168.127.12` installed.
If you prefer, you can also use the pairing interface from Android Studio. The instructions are [here](https://developer.android.com/studio/command-line/adb#wireless-adb-android-11).
You will need `platform-tools` 32 or higher, for both options. At present it can be downloaded [here](https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools).
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/01 | 2,283 | 6,611 | <issue_start>username_0: When I boot up my Android Device and go to WiFi settings, the status of WiFi remains "Turning Wi-Fi on" forever. I looked it up in logcat logs, and below is the error that I see.
```
E/wpa_supplicant( 1713): nl80211: Could not set interface 'wlan0' UP
E/wpa_supplicant( 1713): wlan0: Failed to initialize driver interface
E/wpa_supplicant( 1713): Could not read interface wlan0 flags: No such device
```
Below is some useful information.
```
root@android:/ # netcfg
netcfg
lo UP 127.0.0.1/8 0x00000049 00:00:00:00:00:00
gannet0 DOWN 0.0.0.0/0 0x00001082 1e:e9:6e:bf:45:f7
dummy0 DOWN 0.0.0.0/0 0x00000082 ba:ad:f6:ae:6a:09
rmnet0 DOWN 0.0.0.0/0 0x00000000 00:00:00:00:00:00
rmnet1 DOWN 0.0.0.0/0 0x00000000 00:00:00:00:00:00
rmnet2 DOWN 0.0.0.0/0 0x00000000 00:00:00:00:00:00
rmnet3 DOWN 0.0.0.0/0 0x00000000 00:00:00:00:00:00
rmnet4 DOWN 0.0.0.0/0 0x00000000 00:00:00:00:00:00
rmnet5 DOWN 0.0.0.0/0 0x00000000 00:00:00:00:00:00
rmnet6 DOWN 0.0.0.0/0 0x00000000 00:00:00:00:00:00
rmnet7 DOWN 0.0.0.0/0 0x00000001 00:00:00:00:00:00
sit0 DOWN 0.0.0.0/0 0x00000080 00:00:00:00:00:00
ip6tnl0 DOWN 0.0.0.0/0 0x00000080 00:00:00:00:00:00
```
Contents of `/system/etc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf`:
```
update_config=1
ctrl_interface=wlan0
eapol_version=1
ap_scan=1
fast_reauth=1
```
**Question**: How can I enable Android to use some other interface other than `wlan0`?
Things tried:
1. I tried to edit `ctrl_interface` parameter in `/system/etc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf` using `adb pull` and `adb push` to other interfaces shown by `netcfg`, but Android still tries to use `wlan0`.
2. I also tried to start `wpa_supplicant` daemon using the below command.
```
/system/bin/wpa_supplicant -Dnl80211 -idummy0 -c/system/etc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf
```
but this gives an error.
```
E/wpa_supplicant( 5390): dummy0: Failed to initialize driver interface
```<issue_comment>username_1: I have not tried this myself, but there's an app named [ADB Wireless (no root)](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=za.co.henry.hsu.adbwirelessbyhenry) which, as the name suggests, claims to make this possible without involving root:
>
> This app is for developers wanting adb access over WiFi without rooting your phone.
>
> …
>
> \*\*\* NO ROOT REQUIRED \*\*\*
>
>
>
Usage instructions can be found on the app's playstore page – looks pretty easy and straight. And the permissions look phantastic: nothing that's not necessary or explainable. In fact, just a single one to view WiFi connections. So no ads or spyware to be expected ;)
---
Same to be said for an app called [ADB Wireless (no-root)](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sherdle.adbwireless) (yes, same name – different dev), which seems no longer maintained though (last release was 6/2013):
>
> the first android application in the Google Play store to provide a wireless ADB connection without root.
>
>
>
Asks a few more permissions (a.o. full network), though.
---
Note however that ***all those non-root solutions seem to require a (USB) cable connection for initial setup*** – so there's probably nothing for your special case.
---
### Conclusion:
No app for that if your USB port is busted. So unless you get your busted port repaired or root your device, I see no way to get ADB running wirelessly. As initialization requires more permission as any "standard user" on Android gets, there are no command-line tricks either unless you already have root access: the initialization via USB makes use of the ADB daemons elevated permissions, which are only accessible that way.
### For other readers:
Initial phrasing of my answer omitted that fact, as the OP's USB port is broken/unusable: If your USB port is in working order, and you can use an USB cable to connect to it, you won't need any of those fancy enabler apps (see [here](http://android.izzysoft.de/applists/category/named/network_admin_adb) for more) just to be able to use ADB wirelessly (though some might come in handy if they e.g. offer a [tasker](/questions/tagged/tasker "show questions tagged 'tasker'") plugin, so you could enable wireless ADB in your home network automatically and turn it off when you leave it). As Firelord pointed out in his commend, and Lucky linked to [a post on SO](https://stackoverflow.com/a/14357876/1793718), steps to enable wireless ADB are easy then:
1. enable [usb-debugging](/questions/tagged/usb-debugging "show questions tagged 'usb-debugging'") on your device
2. connect your device to your computer via USB cable
3. run `adb tcpip :` (e.g. `adb tcpip 192.168.1.50:5555` – find the correct IP address in the wireless properties of your Android device) on your computer
4. still on your computer, run `adb connect` (e.g. `adb connect 5555`)
5. unplug your USB cable, it no longer needs to be attached – ADB now runs via WiFi
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: If you've never connected your phone to the computer before, you may be out of luck. Since the later versions of 4.X, (I think at least JB 4.3), you must authorize the host computer to connect via ADB, which will popup the first time you connect with USB.
When using Wifi, this authorization MUST already be established, or it will not accept the ADB over Wifi connection.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: This is now possible for devices running Android 11 or higher.
There's `Wireless debugging` menu under `Developer options`. The pairing is done using a 6-digit pairing code, or a QR code.
To use the pairing code:
1. get the IP address, port and Wi-Fi pairing code from `Developer options/Wireless debugging`/`Pair device with pairing code`,
2. Using a terminal, pair the device:
```
adb pair IP:port pairing-code
```
You're now ready to connect. Get your port number from the `Wireless debugging` screen on your phone (beware, the connection port will most likely differ from the pairing one) and connect from the terminal:
```
adb connect IP:port
```
The menu options may be named slightly differently on your Android build. The ones above are from Android 11, running on `Mi 9T` with `MIUI 12.1.1.0` installed.
If you prefer, you can also use the pairing interface from Android Studio. The instructions are [here](https://developer.android.com/studio/command-line/adb#wireless-adb-android-11).
You will need `platform-tools` 32 or higher, for both options. At present it can be downloaded [here](https://developer.android.com/studio/releases/platform-tools).
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/04 | 352 | 1,327 | <issue_start>username_0: I wanna hard reset my SmartQ T10 so memory and internal storage become fully deleted, but my device does not have such option in Settings, nor there is ClockWorkMod Recovery released for it.
I did try:
- Restore firmware.
- Boot pressing volume up, volume down and both (goes to firmware restore).
- ADB: adb reboot recovery (goes to firmware restore too).
- Research at <http://www.hard-reset.com/> (no SmartQ models there).
so I was wondering if it exists any generic non-platform-specific trick.<issue_comment>username_1: For a real safe and complete wipe, you might want to take a look at [Nuke my Device](http://www.appbrain.com/app/nuke-my-device/com.avengermobile.nukemyphone).
If you're just after a factory-reset, this can be find in *Settings*. But then you shouldn't forget about your other storage (SDcards – internal as well as external – are usually not dealt with by a factory-reset, though some ROMs do so).
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I think I have finally found a partial solution. By using these commands via ADB, what can be done by USB cable or Wireless ADB (my case), the contents of the internal filesystem of the tablet seems to have become clean:
```
adb shell
wipe data
```
I hope this info will help anyone.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/04 | 279 | 1,019 | <issue_start>username_0: My HTC Wildfire does not have an SD card. I am changing phones and providers, from HTC Wildfire on 3 Network to an HTC One on Vodafone. Please advise how I can transfer my contacts from my 3 Network sim card?<issue_comment>username_1: For a real safe and complete wipe, you might want to take a look at [Nuke my Device](http://www.appbrain.com/app/nuke-my-device/com.avengermobile.nukemyphone).
If you're just after a factory-reset, this can be find in *Settings*. But then you shouldn't forget about your other storage (SDcards – internal as well as external – are usually not dealt with by a factory-reset, though some ROMs do so).
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I think I have finally found a partial solution. By using these commands via ADB, what can be done by USB cable or Wireless ADB (my case), the contents of the internal filesystem of the tablet seems to have become clean:
```
adb shell
wipe data
```
I hope this info will help anyone.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/04 | 349 | 1,321 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently bought a Nexus 5. I tried to send an `.apk` (via bluetooth) from my mobile to other mobile. Its working fine and I installed the app on other mobile. But when I tried to send the same `.apk` from that mobile (HTC One X) to my Nexus 5, the HTC shows "cannot send".
I am able to recieve a video from the HTC One X, but not any `.apk`. Any clue on how to receive the `.apk` via Bluetooth on my Nexus 5 from it?<issue_comment>username_1: Do you not get a pop-up notification saying "Allow this transfer" when sending executable (apk) files? That happened to me but you can also try to play around in Bluetooth settings in regards to file receiving.
If you cannot get it to work, I often use AirDroid which works flawlessly.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Try this:
* Rename the `.apk` to something legitimate like `.png` or `.jpg` and send it across via bluetooth.
This should get around the in-built filter of what files can be transferred. Some, if not all, ROMs have the `.apk` extension blacklisted for obvious reasons when bluetooth is activated.
Use a filemanager of any kind, to do this for you, send the "PNG" or "JPG" across, on the other end, it will be saved, use the same filemanager on the other end to rename it back to `.apk` and you're good to go.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/02/04 | 1,332 | 4,976 | <issue_start>username_0: I miss many calendar reminders because they're just too subtle. I might put my phone down and walk out of the room for 5 minutes, missing the reminder, then come back and not touch my phone again for an hour; completely missing an important appointment.
If reminders worked like alarms, they would make their notification sound continuously (up to a point, like alarms: ~10 minutes), and take over the whole screen, until silenced. That would be preferable to me. Is there an app that can do this?<issue_comment>username_1: If you want to stick with your Google Calendar as backend *and* frontend, you might wish to check [Calendar Event Reminder](https://www.appbrain.com/app/de.foobarsoft.calendareventreminder). You can tell that app which calendars to look at, and to annoy you until you're going crazy. I almost guarantee you cannot miss *such* a reminder! I've used the app for quite some time, before...
I switched to a different calendar frontend: [Business Calendar](https://www.appbrain.com/app/mikado.bizcalpro). Very configurable again, also concerning reminders: vibrates and makes "subtle noises" (I've told him so) until I lose my nerves and switch it off :)
There are probably a lot of similar approaches. But I know of no way to even come near to one of them without any 3rd party tool being involved.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: You can copy the **mp3** file that you'd like (for example a 5-minute song) to the **Notifications** folder in your Android (at the same level that the **Download** folder). This can be done as well for *ringtones* (**Ringtones** folder) and *alarms* (**Alarms** folder). Now, go to calendar **Settings**, **General** and change the tone to your mp3 file.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: I found a free app, Calendar Event Reminder, that achieves the requirement at <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=sk.mildev84.reminder>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: What I do is to set an additional alarm in my standard android "Clock" app. Alarms have the option to give them "memo text", e.g. "Reminder for meeting boss in 10 min". So the alarm will act as your intruding and persistent reminder. The alarm has also the option "Auto-start app", where you can select after switching off the alarm the calendar to be opened, showing you that you have an appointment in x min.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: **I use TWO apps for this: [EDIT: I have stopped using both of these, see my other separate answer]**
* Google Calendar events: [Event Alarm Reminder for Google Calendar](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.app_by_LZ.calendar_alarm_clock&hl=en_US&gl=US)
+ **One drawback** of this one: No support of Outlook/Exchange calendars (yet) (August 2021)
* Outlook/Exchange events: "[Event Reminder](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.app_by_LZ.calendar_alarm_clock&hl=en_US&gl=US)"
+ This app DOES support outlook
+ Isn't terribly reliable so I ONLY use it for outlook/exchange, hence both apps.
Also check out my separate answer on how to use a phone automation app.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: **Use an automation app like MacroDroid, Tasker, or AutoMate**
I use MacroDroid for most things.
There are 2 strategies to detect upcoming meetings:
**Detect meeting reminder notifications**
In macrodroid:
* Trigger: Notification - from (calendar apps) - anything
+ (for outlook, I filter by "\d\d:\d\d.\*\d\d:\d\d" to match "09:00 - 10:00"
* If "events seen" variable contains notification text, abort macro
+ (this avoids problems with ongoing notifications over-triggering)
* Set variable "events seen" to "events seen" plus notification text
* Set alarm with notificatoin text, plus "#macro"
**Specifically watch for calendar events**
Most automation apps can detect meetings/events, though it varies how hard it is to do. I found MacroDroid does well at this, with some caveats: you must create one trigger per calendar.
* Use MacroDroid
* Trigger on meetings 5 minutes before they begin.
+ Exclude all-day events
+ Create a similar trigger for each calendar you want alarms for
* Constraints: (either on the entire macro, or the trigger)
+ only during working hours plus buffer (7:00am to 5:30pm)
+ Or, only during waking hours (7am to 10pm)
* Action: Check variable with event title [calendar\_title]. Abort if it contains words/phrases like "out of office/OOO/paid time off/PTO").
+ This would be an abort macro action with an action-level constraint based on variable pattern matching
* Action: Set an alarm 2 minutes in the future with title set to variable [calendar\_title]. I found 1 minute ahead sometimes ended up on the next day.
* The drawback of this approach is it always sets alarms the same amount of time before a meeting.
* I usually use an alarm app that slowly increases in volume. AMDroid and Sleep As Android work well. I set them up so that single-occurence alarms auto-delete.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/04 | 1,372 | 5,125 | <issue_start>username_0: I've removed the permission for almost every app to show me notifications on the status bar but now that led me to a situation in that a lot of times during the day there will be a notification sound (which in my case is an annoyingly loud "boom", which I use because that's the only way I can hear the Redy Gym Log notification that my rest time is up with the loud sound in the gym) but I don't know from which app it came from. Is there any way for me to turn off sound notification? I can't find that on App Opps. Maybe an app that would show a behind the scenes system log would be great, if that kind of thing exists. I'm on a Galaxy Note 3.<issue_comment>username_1: If you want to stick with your Google Calendar as backend *and* frontend, you might wish to check [Calendar Event Reminder](https://www.appbrain.com/app/de.foobarsoft.calendareventreminder). You can tell that app which calendars to look at, and to annoy you until you're going crazy. I almost guarantee you cannot miss *such* a reminder! I've used the app for quite some time, before...
I switched to a different calendar frontend: [Business Calendar](https://www.appbrain.com/app/mikado.bizcalpro). Very configurable again, also concerning reminders: vibrates and makes "subtle noises" (I've told him so) until I lose my nerves and switch it off :)
There are probably a lot of similar approaches. But I know of no way to even come near to one of them without any 3rd party tool being involved.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: You can copy the **mp3** file that you'd like (for example a 5-minute song) to the **Notifications** folder in your Android (at the same level that the **Download** folder). This can be done as well for *ringtones* (**Ringtones** folder) and *alarms* (**Alarms** folder). Now, go to calendar **Settings**, **General** and change the tone to your mp3 file.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: I found a free app, Calendar Event Reminder, that achieves the requirement at <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=sk.mildev84.reminder>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: What I do is to set an additional alarm in my standard android "Clock" app. Alarms have the option to give them "memo text", e.g. "Reminder for meeting boss in 10 min". So the alarm will act as your intruding and persistent reminder. The alarm has also the option "Auto-start app", where you can select after switching off the alarm the calendar to be opened, showing you that you have an appointment in x min.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: **I use TWO apps for this: [EDIT: I have stopped using both of these, see my other separate answer]**
* Google Calendar events: [Event Alarm Reminder for Google Calendar](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.app_by_LZ.calendar_alarm_clock&hl=en_US&gl=US)
+ **One drawback** of this one: No support of Outlook/Exchange calendars (yet) (August 2021)
* Outlook/Exchange events: "[Event Reminder](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.app_by_LZ.calendar_alarm_clock&hl=en_US&gl=US)"
+ This app DOES support outlook
+ Isn't terribly reliable so I ONLY use it for outlook/exchange, hence both apps.
Also check out my separate answer on how to use a phone automation app.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: **Use an automation app like MacroDroid, Tasker, or AutoMate**
I use MacroDroid for most things.
There are 2 strategies to detect upcoming meetings:
**Detect meeting reminder notifications**
In macrodroid:
* Trigger: Notification - from (calendar apps) - anything
+ (for outlook, I filter by "\d\d:\d\d.\*\d\d:\d\d" to match "09:00 - 10:00"
* If "events seen" variable contains notification text, abort macro
+ (this avoids problems with ongoing notifications over-triggering)
* Set variable "events seen" to "events seen" plus notification text
* Set alarm with notificatoin text, plus "#macro"
**Specifically watch for calendar events**
Most automation apps can detect meetings/events, though it varies how hard it is to do. I found MacroDroid does well at this, with some caveats: you must create one trigger per calendar.
* Use MacroDroid
* Trigger on meetings 5 minutes before they begin.
+ Exclude all-day events
+ Create a similar trigger for each calendar you want alarms for
* Constraints: (either on the entire macro, or the trigger)
+ only during working hours plus buffer (7:00am to 5:30pm)
+ Or, only during waking hours (7am to 10pm)
* Action: Check variable with event title [calendar\_title]. Abort if it contains words/phrases like "out of office/OOO/paid time off/PTO").
+ This would be an abort macro action with an action-level constraint based on variable pattern matching
* Action: Set an alarm 2 minutes in the future with title set to variable [calendar\_title]. I found 1 minute ahead sometimes ended up on the next day.
* The drawback of this approach is it always sets alarms the same amount of time before a meeting.
* I usually use an alarm app that slowly increases in volume. AMDroid and Sleep As Android work well. I set them up so that single-occurence alarms auto-delete.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/04 | 826 | 3,235 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Samsung galaxyS3 the battery has been charging really slow. It can take up yo 10 hours to charge 100%. I have tried every thing I can think of. I've tried a new charger, new battery, shut down all apps running in the backgrond, taken out the battery and held down the power, volume and home screen button, deleted junk apps. I've thought about reseting my phone but idk if that would help or just make more work for me. Also I put both my old and new battery in a friends phone and both batteries worked fine. Any ideas?<issue_comment>username_1: Charging is a simple process and can be represented by the below (simplified) equation:
Rate of Charge = Rate of Electricity Flow - Rate of Depletion
To maximize the rate at which your phone charges at, you want to reduce the rate it's using up your battery as far as possible, and increase the speed at which current is flowing into your phone as much as possible.
**Reducing Battery Usage**
This is pretty standard stuff, turn off all unnecessary toggles and apps. Disable WiFi, Bluetooth, GPS, and any constantly running apps. If you happen to be charging your phone in an area with poor or no cellular signal, the constant searching for mobile networks could be a significant contributing factor.
Go to Settings->Battery Usage (or something similar, I don't own a Samsung device so I can't be sure), and look at what's using up your battery.
If possible, consider turning on airplane mode, or even turning your phone off completely to minimise battery usage.
**Increasing Speed of Current Flow**
Look at the thing you're plugging your USB cable into. If you're charging it via your computer, chances are the current flow is around 1A or lower. That's okay, but not great. Look around your house, or see if you can get your hands on a tablet charger. Those often provide current at 1.5A or even 2A at times. That's twice the speed of a 1A charger.
Also, look at where you're plugging your charger into. If the socket is already heavily overloaded, consider plugging it in somewhere else, for safety's sake at least
**Still very slow...**
If at this stage, it's still charging very slowly, your battery may be the issue. Since it seems to work fine in your friend's phone, it may simply be your phone providing inaccurate information. Try [calibrating](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/29598/how-do-i-recalibrate-the-battery-of-my-phone) your phone's battery and see if that helps.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Using a 5v-2A charger will reduce the charging time. It works for me.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: It might be worthwhile to invest in a charge only cable. I use one for my tablet at home and in my car.
The quality of the usb cable will also make a difference. Cables do go bad. It sounds like you have ruled out all the other options so this might be worth trying.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: i just checked charging details of my phone through this app :
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.playfulgeeks.chargingreport>
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_5: Take a tooth brush and clean off the battery connector points in the battery casing of your phone.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/05 | 819 | 3,227 | <issue_start>username_0: My Whatsapp chats got wiped after a ROM flash that resulted in a soft brick. The other person uses Windows Phone 8, and I have an email from that mobile with the chat history txt file. Can I restore the messages on my phone with this file, perhaps by editing the DB file that Whatsapp backups create? Just the message text would be great, I do not care for the dates or other metadata.
This is probably not an easy task, and I'm ready to roll up my sleeves and dig in. Any general pointers to get started would be great.<issue_comment>username_1: Charging is a simple process and can be represented by the below (simplified) equation:
Rate of Charge = Rate of Electricity Flow - Rate of Depletion
To maximize the rate at which your phone charges at, you want to reduce the rate it's using up your battery as far as possible, and increase the speed at which current is flowing into your phone as much as possible.
**Reducing Battery Usage**
This is pretty standard stuff, turn off all unnecessary toggles and apps. Disable WiFi, Bluetooth, GPS, and any constantly running apps. If you happen to be charging your phone in an area with poor or no cellular signal, the constant searching for mobile networks could be a significant contributing factor.
Go to Settings->Battery Usage (or something similar, I don't own a Samsung device so I can't be sure), and look at what's using up your battery.
If possible, consider turning on airplane mode, or even turning your phone off completely to minimise battery usage.
**Increasing Speed of Current Flow**
Look at the thing you're plugging your USB cable into. If you're charging it via your computer, chances are the current flow is around 1A or lower. That's okay, but not great. Look around your house, or see if you can get your hands on a tablet charger. Those often provide current at 1.5A or even 2A at times. That's twice the speed of a 1A charger.
Also, look at where you're plugging your charger into. If the socket is already heavily overloaded, consider plugging it in somewhere else, for safety's sake at least
**Still very slow...**
If at this stage, it's still charging very slowly, your battery may be the issue. Since it seems to work fine in your friend's phone, it may simply be your phone providing inaccurate information. Try [calibrating](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/29598/how-do-i-recalibrate-the-battery-of-my-phone) your phone's battery and see if that helps.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Using a 5v-2A charger will reduce the charging time. It works for me.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: It might be worthwhile to invest in a charge only cable. I use one for my tablet at home and in my car.
The quality of the usb cable will also make a difference. Cables do go bad. It sounds like you have ruled out all the other options so this might be worth trying.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: i just checked charging details of my phone through this app :
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.playfulgeeks.chargingreport>
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_5: Take a tooth brush and clean off the battery connector points in the battery casing of your phone.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/05 | 254 | 1,042 | <issue_start>username_0: I've been trying to get the current location on my [Nexus 5](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nexus_5). When I click on the location button on the bottom right corner it keeps showing "waiting for location", but nothing happens. But it does work fine in [Dalvik](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dalvik_%28software%29).
Is it a bug or is it some setting?<issue_comment>username_1: ART is still a **work in progress** and things *may or may not* work as expected. You can't do anything about except wait for the application's developer coming with a fix and/or wait for ART to be more stable.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: ART is currently only included as an option so that developers can test their apps for compatibility, it doesn't offer benefits for normal people just running normal apps on their phones, quite the opposite in fact at the moment as many of them aren't compatible in their current version. There is a reason that the option to enable ART is hidden away in the hidden developer menu.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/05 | 706 | 2,540 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a PC with videos, an android mobile device and a TV.
I would like to use my mobile in order to stream videos from my PC to the TV.
Is the a way to do it?
The best offers I found out so far are:
1. connect my TV to "[Rikomagic MK802 mini PC](http://www.rikomagic.co.uk/)", install BSPlayer on
it and control the Rikomagic from my mobile.
2. Jailbreak AppleTV and use "[Remote for Apple TV](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=develapp.android.atvremote&hl=en)" app
I saw many discussions around this issue but couldn't find the right solution for me.
Any suggestions?<issue_comment>username_1: I'd recommend giving [BubbleUPnP](http://www.appbrain.com/app/bubbleupnp-upnp-dlna/com.bubblesoft.android.bubbleupnp) a try. You will need a DLNA/UPnP server on your PC for that, but there are plenty of alternatives available. Then you can use *BubbleUPnP* as DLNA server and control point. I use it to tell my TV what video to play (TV acts as renderer then, and can be selected from within BubbleUPnP). You can also tell the TV to play media from your Android device, of course – either from BubbleUPnP (as control point), or from your TV browsing it.
Note, however, that for this to work, it has some pre-conditions:
* your TV must support DLNA (and ideally act as a media renderer)
* you need a DLNA/UPnP server software on your PC (if you're on Windows, I've heard *Media Player* should do)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Quick'n'dirty, stream content to phone and cast screen to tv.
Try the allcast app.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Does your phone have a [MHL connector](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mobile_High-Definition_Link)? If so, you could get a MHL to HDMI adapter, connect the phone to the TV and use a video player to stream the content from the PC.
I'd recommend using [Plex Media Server](https://plex.tv/downloads) on the PC to host the content and the [Plex](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.plexapp.android) Android app to play them. This way you don't have to deal with different video formats as they're automatically transcoded if the source file isn't compatible with Android.
Note that Plex supports streaming for many different devices, so depending on your TV you may be able to stream directly to it.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I have a Roku that is hooked up to my TV. I use PLEX to handle streaming videos from my PC and other devices.
Rokus are pretty cheap and PLEX has done what I need.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2014/02/05 | 382 | 1,605 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Nexus 4 with Android 4.4.2 and I can't switch off the spell checker. I write messages in several different languages and it insists on changing foreign words to the closest English. Writing a message can take me several minutes to sort out all the errors Android itself introduces.
Assessing *Settings* > *Language & input* the *Spell checker* field is turned off, but this doesn't stop Android from messing up my messages.
Thank you.<issue_comment>username_1: Try going into Settings > Language & Input and configure the Google Keyboard.
In there you can turn off 'Auto-correction'. This should stop it from changing the foreign words to English.
You could also try adding additional dictionaries. This should allow you to enter words from different languages without it detecting them as mis-spelt English words.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I did Settings -> Language & Input and turned off Spell checker.
And then still in Language & Input I went into the Google Keyboard config, de-selected Use System Language, de-selected English(US), then selected Alphabet(QWERTY).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Just turn off Swiftkey and auto correction on your remaining keyboards in Settings → Language & keyboard.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: On HTC One M8 what I did:
`Settings -> Language & keyboard -> Keyboard options -> Advanced -> Word prediction` unticked.
Worked for me.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Android 5.1.1.
Settings>Language & Input>Google Keyboard>Text Correction>Disable Auto Correction
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/05 | 867 | 3,359 | <issue_start>username_0: I have 5GB free out of total 11.5GB internal flash storage on my SGS2.
However, it doesn't allow to install new apps saying there's not enough memory. Also `Settings > Applications Manager > All` reports 1.7GB used, 281MB free (even immediately after reboot).
Why I can't use all 11.5GB of internal storage for my apps, but only 2GB? How can I make more storage available for applications?
Samsung Galaxy SII, stock firmware auto-updated to 4.1.2 I9100 XWLSE.<issue_comment>username_1: The Samsung Galaxy SII is an older device which doesn't use the MTP protocol and so, applications' storage and internal storage is separated. Newer devices share the full internal storage seemingly.
If you in need of storage space for apps, you may look at some root options such as:
* app2sd applications that enable you to transfer your applications to the internal storage
* app2ext that enable you to extend your applications' partition
* a ROM for your phone that change the partitions' size
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: What my friend is implying is that the applications you have on your Samsung, are eating up your Internal memory. What you need is to get the applications running from your external SD card.
In all android devices there's an amount of the memory assigned to run your android system just like in a computer there's a storage for your OS.This storage should be about 2GB, or less....now, your Samsung's memory is divided into three main parts,that is system storage , USB storage and SD card(external SD card)Try going to your task manager and checking the available memory.
also, Try moving the apps to run on SD card(external) using [AppsMgrIII](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.a0soft.gphone.app2sd&hl=en), hope it works.Otherwise if the memory continues to be as little as you imply, your S2 will start getting slower.Goodluck.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: [This post](http://forums.androidcentral.com/samsung-galaxy-s-ii/272384-galaxy-s2-cannot-download-updates-new-apps.html) helped me:
* since firmware version 4.1 (Jelly Bean), the memory became partitioned: roughly 2GB for apps, the rest became mass storage. The problem didn't exist in ICS or earlier.
* to free up *some* space, dial \*#9900# *in standard dialer (called Phone)* and select option 2 "Delete dumpstate/logcat" in the prompted menu
As for making more than 2GBs available for applications, [here's an instruction](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2538947) on re-flashing firmware which re-partitions internal storage, allowing up to 12GBs of internal storage for applications.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: A quick and easy way to free up some space is SD Maid. It's a free software and is available on the Android Market. Sometimes log files take a lot of this internal space. But I believe even ~200MB should be more than enough to get new apps. Have you tried writing to the internal storage yourself or check if apps can write to it? This is easy to do if you have a rooted phone and you can use any file manager to create a file on it. I suspect that your phone is accidentally detecting your internal storage as read only and this is what is causing the issue. I have seen the same happen for external SD cards before but not for internal storage.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/05 | 615 | 2,096 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm looking to host simple web apps on my smartphone in a group (like a LAN party, just not as hardcore).
Because of both lack of portability and lack of specific programming skills, I can't just develop a client app to play. Therefore, I need a server - preferably an HTTP one - which can serve dynamic content. I already found many servers to host static files, and I also found a few servers supporting PHP as a scripting language, but I couldn't find any app that did all these things at once:
* Be a server, i.e. support connections from the local network;
* Serve dynamic content, i.e. parse and execute scripts which I can edit;
* Is free for personal use.<issue_comment>username_1: [**AndroPHP**](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ayansoft.androphp&hl=en) looks like it'll fill your needs quite nicely.
You can...
* Deply dynamic PHP content
* Serve pages over LAN
* Use a MySQL Database
Heck, this'd be awesome for all *sorts* of events. Have people whip out their phones, navigate to your locally hosted signup form, etc, then export the mysql tables out later.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: That unfortunately needs some 3rd party app, as there's no "native" feature included with Android. Apps you might wish to check for this purpose include:
* [AndroPHP](http://www.appbrain.com/app/AndroPHP/com.ayansoft.androphp) (already [described by username_1](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/62805/16575))
* [Ulti Server: PHP, MySQL, PMA](http://www.appbrain.com/app/Ulti-Server-PHP-MySQL-PMA/com.icecoldapps.ultiserver) includes DyDNS, FTP, FTPS, SFTP, SSH, PHP, MySQL (which also answers t0mm13b's comment)
* [KSWEB: server + PHP + MySQL](http://www.appbrain.com/app/KSWEB-server-PHP-MySQL/ru.kslabs.ksweb) also includes FTP and some administrative tools and a function to update external IP in No-IP service (second answer to t0mm13b, even with his favorite "no-ip")
* [NAMP nginx android web server](http://www.appbrain.com/app/NAMP-nginx-android-web-server/ru.nampltd.namp) with PHP, MySQL and FTP
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/02/06 | 750 | 2,741 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Nexus 4 16GB stock on 4.2.
It is experiencing a ghost/phantom touch issue, as you can see here:
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f61TPtL4WBk>
This doesn't happen all the time, but it does happen regularly (every 5-10 minutes) in Chrome, Dropbox, the stock Settings app and an app I'm developing. It doesn't happen on the homescreen, though - at least not that I've noticed. It *may* happen only when the device is warm, but I can't really tell as it's not that consistent.
I tried updating to 4.3 (using the standard OTA) and the touchscreen becomes completely unresponsive, like this:
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QSt5GFSTr0E>
In this state you can't even unlock the phone, though it is responsive as you can see. I also tried sideloading 4.4 onto the phone, and this didn't work. I tried rebooting (by holding power for 10 seconds), going into fastboot and wiping the phone and nothing would enable the touchscreen to come alive.
I then restored the phone back to stock 4.2 (using instructions from [here](http://www.androidrootz.com/2012/12/how-to-unroot-nexus-4-to-stock-42-jelly.html)) which allows the touchscreen to work, but the original ghost/phantom touch problem remains.
Any ideas please?<issue_comment>username_1: You can try side loading 4.4.2 and then a factory reset from that android version
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: have the same issues as the first bloggers that posted.
I have the Nexus 4 16Gb and in February 2014, I cracked the screen and changed the digitizer. In the process I tore the lithium polymer bag for the battery and subsequently the phone started to have a sweet smell. After 5 days the phone started acting up with these ghost images which was typing the same random characters in Google Plus, the camera took photos by itself, it shut off by itself and made squealing noises and just have been crazy. Only upon plugging in the phone into the adapter charger would stabilize and use it on a regular basis.
After reviewing several blogs, one person recommended changing the battery, which I did and this has fixed the phone. I've had a new battery in the phone for over 4 days now and it's working perfectly fine. I am running Kit Kat 4.4.2 and have all of the different kinds of apps installed on the phone. screen replacement and battery replacement can be found on YouTube.
FIRST! Change your battery, don't give up the phone. Spend the money ($21 Amazon) and don't regret because you didn't try to change the battery and see if it works again.
Hope this helps and pass it on to others you may know!
\*\*UPDATE: Apr 13, 2014. Phone is working as normal using USB charge and wall charger. IT'S THE BATTERY CAUSING THE GHOST IMAGES.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/02/06 | 1,076 | 4,514 | <issue_start>username_0: For this scenario let's assume the following:
* The phone is stolen and locked. The thief does not know the lock combination and cannot determine it.
* There is no external SD slot.
* USB debugging is disabled.
* The bootloader is locked.
In case it matters, the phone is a Moto G from Motorola (i. e. not the Google play edition)
Is this enough to hinder a smart thief from resetting or flashing my phone? If not, what else could go wrong?<issue_comment>username_1: Although difficult to generalize, in a pretty good number of cases, using a lock screen PIN/password is not going to be sufficient to prevent someone from wiping your phone and/or flashing it with a new ROM. It may be an effective enough deterrent to prevent them from accessing your personal data, but there are a few considerations that go along with that, as well.
Firstly, if the bootloader is unlockable, then there is effectively no way to prevent someone from reflashing the device. The `fastboot` utility will give them the ability to flash unsigned images once the bootloader is unlocked, and unlocking it will not be prevented by any userspace security (like a PIN/password or keeping USB debugging disabled). Nexus devices always have unlockable bootloaders, so those are a given. For other devices, you can typically find out if your device has an unlockable bootloader by visiting the development portal of your manufacturer's website. Samsung devices will use Odin/Heimdall instead of `fastboot` (excepting some outliers, like Nexus devices made by Samsung which *also* have fastboot), but you can generally find out if a Samsung device will accept unsigned images via a bit of searching (in many cases they will).
Some devices have other ways of accessing fastboot/recovery, some more esoteric than others. It's not terribly uncommon for there to be a key combination that will boot a device into its stock recovery system, which will provide some means of performing a factory reset, thereby removing any lock screen security that was configured on the device. Another complication can be if the device recognizes a [factory cable](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1077414). The Kindle Fire, for example, would let you flash an unsigned image with a factory cable, meaning you could actually get a custom recovery installed *without wiping the device*. This would put all of your data at risk if the attacker was properly equipped and technologically savvy.
There are probably other concerns that I'm not considering here, as well, but these are the basic ones aside from bootloader exploits and the like, which are not really predictable in the long-term. In general, though, there is a saying about security which [Microsoft sums up as such](http://technet.microsoft.com/library/cc722487.aspx#EIAA):
>
> If a bad guy has unrestricted physical access to your computer, it's not your computer anymore
>
>
>
...and that's a pretty accurate way of putting it for an Android device. If your concern is securing your *data* then userspace security like a lock screen password, locked bootloader, and keeping USB debugging off are going to be great defenses. If you're looking to secure your *device* such that no attacker could make use of it, then you've got a significant uphill battle, and the odds of winning are going to be very slim (and quite possibly zero).
---
NB: For your specific scenario: the Moto G is supported by Motorola's [bootloader unlock program](https://motorola-global-portal.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/87215). Therefore, userspace security will not prevent someone from resetting or reflashing your device.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you flash a custom ROM with a bootloader that cannot be unlocked for any reason and that does not have a factory reset option, disable data transfer if stolen, prevent safe mode of any kind, enable gps tracking with no signal in or out of the phone/tablet except gps, encrypt the device, then you could possibly prevent a thief from using your phone. I do not know of any such custom ROM.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: If you have a motrola phone ( Moto G as you have described it) with locked bootloader then your safe thief cant unlock bootloader without having access to your email.
In short if you have any motorola phone and you have not unlocked your boot loader and you have a lock screen password or pattern then your phone cant be reflashed or reset.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/06 | 1,050 | 4,366 | <issue_start>username_0: I have been trying to figure out what this error is and how to get rid of it.
Whenever I try to open the pdf file from this website on chrome:
<http://www.stdavidtheking.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=feature.display&feature_id=247>
I get the error download unsuccesful. What can I do to fix this?<issue_comment>username_1: Although difficult to generalize, in a pretty good number of cases, using a lock screen PIN/password is not going to be sufficient to prevent someone from wiping your phone and/or flashing it with a new ROM. It may be an effective enough deterrent to prevent them from accessing your personal data, but there are a few considerations that go along with that, as well.
Firstly, if the bootloader is unlockable, then there is effectively no way to prevent someone from reflashing the device. The `fastboot` utility will give them the ability to flash unsigned images once the bootloader is unlocked, and unlocking it will not be prevented by any userspace security (like a PIN/password or keeping USB debugging disabled). Nexus devices always have unlockable bootloaders, so those are a given. For other devices, you can typically find out if your device has an unlockable bootloader by visiting the development portal of your manufacturer's website. Samsung devices will use Odin/Heimdall instead of `fastboot` (excepting some outliers, like Nexus devices made by Samsung which *also* have fastboot), but you can generally find out if a Samsung device will accept unsigned images via a bit of searching (in many cases they will).
Some devices have other ways of accessing fastboot/recovery, some more esoteric than others. It's not terribly uncommon for there to be a key combination that will boot a device into its stock recovery system, which will provide some means of performing a factory reset, thereby removing any lock screen security that was configured on the device. Another complication can be if the device recognizes a [factory cable](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1077414). The Kindle Fire, for example, would let you flash an unsigned image with a factory cable, meaning you could actually get a custom recovery installed *without wiping the device*. This would put all of your data at risk if the attacker was properly equipped and technologically savvy.
There are probably other concerns that I'm not considering here, as well, but these are the basic ones aside from bootloader exploits and the like, which are not really predictable in the long-term. In general, though, there is a saying about security which [Microsoft sums up as such](http://technet.microsoft.com/library/cc722487.aspx#EIAA):
>
> If a bad guy has unrestricted physical access to your computer, it's not your computer anymore
>
>
>
...and that's a pretty accurate way of putting it for an Android device. If your concern is securing your *data* then userspace security like a lock screen password, locked bootloader, and keeping USB debugging off are going to be great defenses. If you're looking to secure your *device* such that no attacker could make use of it, then you've got a significant uphill battle, and the odds of winning are going to be very slim (and quite possibly zero).
---
NB: For your specific scenario: the Moto G is supported by Motorola's [bootloader unlock program](https://motorola-global-portal.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/87215). Therefore, userspace security will not prevent someone from resetting or reflashing your device.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you flash a custom ROM with a bootloader that cannot be unlocked for any reason and that does not have a factory reset option, disable data transfer if stolen, prevent safe mode of any kind, enable gps tracking with no signal in or out of the phone/tablet except gps, encrypt the device, then you could possibly prevent a thief from using your phone. I do not know of any such custom ROM.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: If you have a motrola phone ( Moto G as you have described it) with locked bootloader then your safe thief cant unlock bootloader without having access to your email.
In short if you have any motorola phone and you have not unlocked your boot loader and you have a lock screen password or pattern then your phone cant be reflashed or reset.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/07 | 288 | 1,150 | <issue_start>username_0: My friend is an Administrator of our group on WhatsApp. He migrated from Singapore to US and as a result, his phone is not working. I would like to take the Administrator privileges for adding him back to the group using US phone number. Can you please share suggestions for solving this issue?
Thanks,
Aniruddh<issue_comment>username_1: Your friend need to change the whatsapp number first.
Whatsapp -> Settings-> Account-> Change Number... and follow instructions.
Next Step add the one who needs to be the admin to the group(here you)(skip this as you are already in the group).
Remove all others except you and the present admin(your friend) from the group.
Now your friend (present admin) needs to 'Delete and exit ' the group. Now the one who's left will become admin.
Add all your friends back to group.
Voila :-)
[Source](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2535153)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: No need to remove all users. Just add the person who want to become the admin, then leave or exit the group. The last person you added will automatically become the group admin.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/07 | 1,376 | 4,898 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an Amazon Kindle Fire HD with parental control, but I have forgotten the code.
How can I remove it without losing anything?
I think it involves some kind of "reset", but I want to be sure I won't lose something from the device before I start and that I won’t have to spend a lot of time re-sending stuff to it.
I see something about de-registering, so perhaps it is not so difficult, though when I try to do it, parental control is blocking me, also it is blocking me from connecting to the Internet with Wi-Fi.<issue_comment>username_1: Try out these links:
* [How to Undo Parental Controls on a Kindle Fire](http://everydaylife.globalpost.com/undo-parental-controls-kindle-fire-26179.html)
* [Kindle Support](http://www.kindle.com/support)
Factory reset is the on more option. You will lose your data, so back-up your data before resetting.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You could just try de-registering your Kindle from your Amazon-Account and you may get rid of the password. Note that that WILL delete all Amazon content (like books, apps and so on) but it should leave other things untouched (like your own photos, music or other stuff you have sideloaded to your device). You would de-register it at Manage Your Devices on Amazon. After re-registering you should be able to download all your content from Amazon again, including books, apps and so on.
Answer found here: [Yahoo Answers](http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20131112030746AAFhcHC)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: If you can't seem to find the answer to this question on one of Amazon's FAQ sites and/or the in the instruction manual, back up your data and do a factory reset. It's also the quickest way than rather run around in circles, but be careful, that data could have some stuff that you can't afford to lose (like my "Flappy Bird" high score).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Look at this [amazon help forum](http://www.amazon.com/forum/kindle?_encoding=UTF8&cdForum=Fx1D7SY3BVSESG&cdThread=TxKB7D5FMDC03Q) about this issue. I found this:
>
> This is a bug in the kindle. Don't reset your device people!!! Just go onto your amazon account and "manage your device" and deregister it. That resets the parental control password. Go to the device and hit resync. When thats done go into the settings gear, my account, and register it using your amazon account info. It will be as before, nothing lost. I just got off the chat with a helpful amazon tech rep who gave me this information.
>
>
>
Also take a look at this answer on a forum found at [askville.amazon.com](http://askville.amazon.com/reset-parental-controls-password-forgot/AnswerViewer.do?requestId=88814347):
>
>
> >
> > If you forget your password, you can deregister your Kindle Fire from Manage Your Kindle (www.amazon.com/manageyourkindle) to reset the
> > parental controls password. Deregistering your Kindle Fire will also
> > allow you to keep any downloaded items on your device. Once your
> > Kindle Fire has been deregistered, tap Sync from the Quick Settings
> > menu on your device, tap More, then select My Account to reregister
> > your device.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> If you're unable to deregister your Kindle Fire from Manage Your
> Kindle, you'll need to reset your device to the default factory
> settings to regain access. If you've added any personal documents,
> music, videos, or other content to your Kindle Fire, ensure it's been
> backed up prior to resetting your device. Resetting your Kindle Fire
> to the default factory settings will delete all content on your device
> and you'll need to register it again before downloading items from
> your Amazon account.
>
>
> To reset your device to the default factory settings:
>
>
> K6:
>
>
> 1. Tap the Quick Settings icon in the top right corner of the screen, then tap More.
> 2. Tap Device, then tap Reset to Factory Defaults.
>
>
> K9 / K9-HD / K10:
>
>
> 1. Swipe down from the top of the screen, then tap More.
> 2. Tap Device, then tap Reset to Factory Defaults.
>
>
> To ensure your Kindle Fire has the latest software update, visit:
>
>
> <http://www.amazon.com/kindlesoftwareupdates>
>
>
> Kindle Fire also supports Parental Controls for in-app items purchased
> through the Amazon Appstore.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: My son's Kindle Fire HD 2014 had the same problem with the parental controls password. Somehow the Kindle went offline and I couldn't turn WiFi on and the password was not working. I de-registered it directly on the Kindle since it was not online. Then I registered it again and everything is back on his Kindle. I was concerned he was going to lose the level he was on on all his games but he didn't!
So, do not reset back to factory settings because you will loose everything. Just de-register and register again.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/07 | 1,423 | 5,096 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Galaxy SIII on Jellybean that's about a year old. I've never had any battery issues with it. The last three days, it's been at 80% when I go to bed at night, and completely dead in the morning. Once it's charged (and it does appear to charge fully), it's fine all day, so there has to be some app that's hijacking it and running down the battery during the night. To the best of my recollection I have not installed anything new recently. I have GPS and wireless turned off by default.
Are there any apps out there that would produce a report of what apps are running at a given time (i.e. that I can look at after the fact; not something that shows me what's running now) and how much battery life they used?<issue_comment>username_1: Try out these links:
* [How to Undo Parental Controls on a Kindle Fire](http://everydaylife.globalpost.com/undo-parental-controls-kindle-fire-26179.html)
* [Kindle Support](http://www.kindle.com/support)
Factory reset is the on more option. You will lose your data, so back-up your data before resetting.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You could just try de-registering your Kindle from your Amazon-Account and you may get rid of the password. Note that that WILL delete all Amazon content (like books, apps and so on) but it should leave other things untouched (like your own photos, music or other stuff you have sideloaded to your device). You would de-register it at Manage Your Devices on Amazon. After re-registering you should be able to download all your content from Amazon again, including books, apps and so on.
Answer found here: [Yahoo Answers](http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20131112030746AAFhcHC)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: If you can't seem to find the answer to this question on one of Amazon's FAQ sites and/or the in the instruction manual, back up your data and do a factory reset. It's also the quickest way than rather run around in circles, but be careful, that data could have some stuff that you can't afford to lose (like my "Flappy Bird" high score).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Look at this [amazon help forum](http://www.amazon.com/forum/kindle?_encoding=UTF8&cdForum=Fx1D7SY3BVSESG&cdThread=TxKB7D5FMDC03Q) about this issue. I found this:
>
> This is a bug in the kindle. Don't reset your device people!!! Just go onto your amazon account and "manage your device" and deregister it. That resets the parental control password. Go to the device and hit resync. When thats done go into the settings gear, my account, and register it using your amazon account info. It will be as before, nothing lost. I just got off the chat with a helpful amazon tech rep who gave me this information.
>
>
>
Also take a look at this answer on a forum found at [askville.amazon.com](http://askville.amazon.com/reset-parental-controls-password-forgot/AnswerViewer.do?requestId=88814347):
>
>
> >
> > If you forget your password, you can deregister your Kindle Fire from Manage Your Kindle (www.amazon.com/manageyourkindle) to reset the
> > parental controls password. Deregistering your Kindle Fire will also
> > allow you to keep any downloaded items on your device. Once your
> > Kindle Fire has been deregistered, tap Sync from the Quick Settings
> > menu on your device, tap More, then select My Account to reregister
> > your device.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> If you're unable to deregister your Kindle Fire from Manage Your
> Kindle, you'll need to reset your device to the default factory
> settings to regain access. If you've added any personal documents,
> music, videos, or other content to your Kindle Fire, ensure it's been
> backed up prior to resetting your device. Resetting your Kindle Fire
> to the default factory settings will delete all content on your device
> and you'll need to register it again before downloading items from
> your Amazon account.
>
>
> To reset your device to the default factory settings:
>
>
> K6:
>
>
> 1. Tap the Quick Settings icon in the top right corner of the screen, then tap More.
> 2. Tap Device, then tap Reset to Factory Defaults.
>
>
> K9 / K9-HD / K10:
>
>
> 1. Swipe down from the top of the screen, then tap More.
> 2. Tap Device, then tap Reset to Factory Defaults.
>
>
> To ensure your Kindle Fire has the latest software update, visit:
>
>
> <http://www.amazon.com/kindlesoftwareupdates>
>
>
> Kindle Fire also supports Parental Controls for in-app items purchased
> through the Amazon Appstore.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: My son's Kindle Fire HD 2014 had the same problem with the parental controls password. Somehow the Kindle went offline and I couldn't turn WiFi on and the password was not working. I de-registered it directly on the Kindle since it was not online. Then I registered it again and everything is back on his Kindle. I was concerned he was going to lose the level he was on on all his games but he didn't!
So, do not reset back to factory settings because you will loose everything. Just de-register and register again.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/07 | 279 | 1,137 | <issue_start>username_0: I was wondering if anyone would be of any assistance to me.
I have a Samsung Galaxy S4 (Google Edition) smartphone.
I have recently setup KNOX for business use, and safely connecting to servers etc.
However, my keyboard does not work at all in the KNOX application, but it works fine in Personal Home?
Does anyone have any ideas of what this may be?
I am using Google Keyboard, since I do not really like the stock Samsung Keyboard.
Thanks in advance,
Ben<issue_comment>username_1: I just set up a Knox container myself and it seems that it is a secure sandbox environment that does not have access to your regular apps (any downloaded keyboard included) or even the Play store at all. It has its own Knox store, I suppose to keep the Knox container more secure. I was able to find a keyboard app for sale (Quickwrite Keyboard) in the Knox store but it's not cheap.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Swiftkey is free and works inside and outside Knox
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: It seems, you changed Keyboard default. You have to setup "Samsung keyboard" as default when using KNOX
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/07 | 675 | 2,651 | <issue_start>username_0: It's been a few days now since my friend's contact images started to disappear on my Samsung Galaxy Sii. WhatsApp is up to date. Android is 4.1.2.
I've already tried:
* Turn off/on the phone;
* Add/remove the contact from the address book of the phone (my contacts are on the Gmail account);
* Clear the phone cache (under App Management). Just the cache. I don't want to lose conversations;
* Checked WhatsApp space usage (under App Management). It's like 23 MB in total. Some apps use much more;
Some facts:
* Some friends (a few of them) are still showing the profile images. They are from the same source (Gmail Address Book);
* If I delete/recreate those friends with profile images, their image is re-downloaded correctly. I also deleted the profile image in the "Profile Pictures" folder and WhatsApp downloaded it again;
**My guess**: Users that are changing their profile image recently are being set as "no profile photo" (in the server). This propagates to everyone else who refreshes their address book for any reason.
Can somebody check my findings?<issue_comment>username_1: If your friend didn't add you into his/her phone book, then you can't see your friend's profile picture.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: If it's one friend, maybe your friend removed the picture from his/her profile. If it's happening in multiple contacts, somehow the image cache of the app may have gotten corrupted. If you are used to getting around in android then force stop the app, clear data and cache. Or just uninstall and reinstall the app. Both ways would force the app to load the whole image cache again.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Seems like WhatsApp has recently applied some patches at their backend. If you have any contacts in your phone who don't know you (i.e. they don't have your number saved in their phonebook) then their profile pictures are not visible. Recently started happening on my phone too.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: From [WhatsApp FAQ](https://faq.whatsapp.com/449173975744355):
>
> Privacy settings allow you to hide your last seen, profile photo, about, status, or read receipts. You might not be able to see someone else's information because of how they’ve set their privacy settings.
> If you can't see someone else's last seen, profile photo, about, status, or read receipts, it might be due to one of the following:
>
>
> * There's a temporary network issue.
> * You or the user changed your [privacy settings][1] for last seen or profile photo.
> * You and the user both need to resync your contacts.
> * You're blocked by the contact.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 |
2014/02/08 | 408 | 1,723 | <issue_start>username_0: In my Samsung Galaxy S4, under Applications Manager, the email app has its notifications turned off by default.
This is stopping me from knowing when any of my emails come in. How can I turn this on?
I have found that others have the same issue but have not found a fix for this yet. The other people just changed apps to K9 email.<issue_comment>username_1: I had the same problem and this is what I did...
Start at your home screen and swipe down from the top to display your notifications. At the top right, tap the gear/wheel (which is settings). Then, tap accounts. Next, email. If you have more than one email on this app, you have to do the following for each email address--I have two on mine.
You will have a screen that has an accounts heading and common settings heading. Tap settings, then, on the next screen, tap the email you would like to adjust. Sync settings will come up. check the email notifications box and then select a ring tone that won't make you crazy every time you hear it! lol! And that should do it!
p.s. you can also change your signature here as well, to personalize your outgoing messages by tapping signature and turning that function on.. :)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: With mine, I had to sync my facebook account with the phone, and the email app started working again.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Click on the button next to the gear that opens settings in the pull down menu and make sure that "sync" has been highlighted. This should fix it.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Have you changed your e-mail password? If so, you will need to update it on your phone, under Settings -> Accounts, then restart your phone.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/08 | 1,432 | 4,763 | <issue_start>username_0: ClockworkMod Recovery v6.0.2.3 gives me the folling error when I try to update my Samsung Galaxy Tab 2 (GT-P5113) to Cyanogenmod 11:
```
Restarting adbd...
Finding update package...
Opening update package...
Installing update...
set_metadata_recursive: some changes failed
E:Error in /tmp/update.zip
(status 7)
Installation aborted.
```
Being desperate I tried the same thing with [Team Win Recovery Project (TWRP)](http://techerrata.com/browse/twrp2/p5110) v2.6.3.0 -- also the latest for my platofrm,
```
Checking for MD5 file...
Skipping MD5 check: no MD5 file file found.
set_metadata_recursive: some changes filed
E:Error: executing updater binary in zip '/data/media/0/sideload.zip'
```<issue_comment>username_1: In short, if you want to flash KitKat Android 4.4, you'll have to upgrade to a version of CWM greater than v6.0.4.5. Or, use an alternate bootloader. For the Galaxy Tab 2 GT-P5113 or GT-p5110 [you can find the instructions here](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/62986/7425).
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: A zip package that contains a firmware update always includes two files in `META-INF/com/google/android`: `updater-script` and `update-binary`. `updater-script` is a text file containing commands required to install the update. `update-binary` translates the commands into binary code.
In Android 4.4 KitKat, Google has changed the interface that `updater-script` uses for setting up permissions. The previously used `set_perm` method was deprecated and replaced by `set_metadata`. This causes old versions of custom recovery software to fail with Android 4.4 packages (e.g. CyanogenMod 11) and display the error message "set\_metadata\_recursive: some changes failed".
The best solution is to update the custom recovery software. I haven't found a new enough version of ClockworkMod compiled for my device, but I have found the newest version of TWRP to work.
Second option is to fix the `updater-script` by replacing any `set_metadata` and `set_metadata_recursive` calls with the old syntax, i.e. `set_perm` and `set_perm_recursive`. I haven't done this so I'm not sure how easy this would be.
Third option is to replace the `update-binary` with a patched one created by XDA member daniel\_hk:
<http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2532300>
. I have done this and it worked fine, but the binary is compiled for ARMv7 and won't work in any other architecture.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: I wrote this search/replace pattern that munges the new format into the old, and it worked for me:
```
$ sed -i "s|set_metadata_recursive(\\(\"[^\"]\*\"\\), \"uid\", \\([0-9]\*\\), \"gid\", \\([0-9]\*\\), \"dmode\", \\([0-9]\*\\), \"fmode\", \\([0-9]\*\\),.*);|set_perm_recursive(\2, \3, \4, \5, \1);|" META-INF/com/google/android/updater-script
```
In the end the google-play app wouldn't install either, so I bit the bullet and flashed an updated recovery (`recovery-clockwork-6.0.4.6-i9300.img` with heimdal) and was then able to flash an unmodified CM11. Aside, Google Play had errors until I disabled 3G (forcing IPv4 over WiFi), it seems there were (temporary?) issues connecting to Play Servers via IPv6.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: In addition to [username_3's answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/86964/44325), made by comparison of cm-10.1.3 and cm-11 updater-script. After this replacement, I successfully flashed `cm-11-20141110-NIGHTLY-n7000.zip` with recovery 5 (built-in in ICS speedmod kernel).
```
set_metadata => set_perm
set_metadata_recursive => set_perm_recursive
sed -i "s|set_metadata(\(\"[^\"]*\"\), \"uid\", \([0-9]*\), \"gid\", \([0-9]*\), \"mode\", \([0-9]*\).*);|set_perm(\2, \3, \4, \1);|" updater-script
```
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: ERROR STATUS 7 is because of you will have to upgrade CWM version to greater than or equal to the version CWM v 6.0.4.4 to install kitkat and lollipop on samsung Galaxy Tab 2 GT-P5113 or GT-p5110
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_6: Make sure you enable "USB Debugging" under "Developer options" on your rooted phone. That worked for me.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_7: I have solved that modifiying the \META-INF\com\google\android\updater-script file in a text editor, and replacing all the set\_metadata\_recursive by its old version set\_param\_recursive (the signature of the functions are relatively equivalent), after that you have to re-zip the pack and sign the file.
For replacing and figure it out how to do it: search in google "replace set\_metadata\_recursive by set\_param\_recursive phyton" somebody has created a phyton script but if you understand the functions signatures you can doit manually.
- then repack and sign the zip.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/08 | 460 | 1,566 | <issue_start>username_0: I have got [Karbonn Ta-Fone A34](http://www.karbonntablet.com/ta-fone-a34-with-dual-sim-and-calling/) tablet. By default its mobile network options is permanently inactive.
Now I have rooted my tablet and want to enable to mobile network option.
Is there any way I can browse the Android System files and make changes there to enable the mobile network or if there is any app to do this.<issue_comment>username_1: According to the specs you linked, this tablet doesn't support 3G mobile networks, only GSM. To enable the mobile network features, you need to buy a 3G USB dongle and connect it to the tablet.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Too bad you can't; the network specs are; 2G: GSM 900, GSM 1800, that does not mean it has something to do with the software used or OS, its network adapter can only support 2G network.
That said, it doesn't mean you shouldn't try some apps.here are some you can give a shot at; [2G/3G](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.talkingnmouse&hl=en), [network conversion](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Network_2G_3G_Conversion_209074), [network change](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Network_2G_3G_Change_209074&hl=ent)...some may work and others may not. You could also get a 3G modem to work this out for you. Some applications will show you that the network is changed to 3G, I wouldn't buy that though. Get some ways of testing your network speed after installing an app just to make sure. Let me know when it works.glad to help.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/08 | 513 | 1,727 | <issue_start>username_0: Whenever I try to flash a ROM on my ASUS Transformer Prime (tf201), I get the following error:
```
assert failed: getprop("ro.product.device") == "tf201" || getprop("ro.build.product") == "tf201"
```
I've got around it by opening the ZIP file of the ROM, navigating to `/META-INF/com/google/android/updater-script` and just removing this check. The ROM installs fine then.
But still I'm left with the question: why isn't my device recognized as a tf201, while it obviously is? Is it because I formatted the `system` partition in a format frenzy?<issue_comment>username_1: According to the specs you linked, this tablet doesn't support 3G mobile networks, only GSM. To enable the mobile network features, you need to buy a 3G USB dongle and connect it to the tablet.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Too bad you can't; the network specs are; 2G: GSM 900, GSM 1800, that does not mean it has something to do with the software used or OS, its network adapter can only support 2G network.
That said, it doesn't mean you shouldn't try some apps.here are some you can give a shot at; [2G/3G](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.talkingnmouse&hl=en), [network conversion](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Network_2G_3G_Conversion_209074), [network change](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Network_2G_3G_Change_209074&hl=ent)...some may work and others may not. You could also get a 3G modem to work this out for you. Some applications will show you that the network is changed to 3G, I wouldn't buy that though. Get some ways of testing your network speed after installing an app just to make sure. Let me know when it works.glad to help.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/09 | 389 | 1,495 | <issue_start>username_0: I saved a few magazine issues using the options available in the Google Play Newsstand app, but can't figure out where the files are stored. Nothing showed up in the `/sdcard/` directories tagged with recent modification dates.
Anyone know where I should be looking? In case it's relevant, my device is ASUS MemoPad 302C.<issue_comment>username_1: Without root access on the device, probably nowhere. With root, most likely in `/data/data/com.google.android.apps.magazines`. If the app stores data on sdcard, it should be found below `Android/data/com.google.android.apps.magazines`.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: It'll probably be in `/data/data/com.google.android.apps.magazines` as **Izzy** says. I want to point something out in here, further improving his answer.
A-) All apps, by default, store their datas in `/data/data/*app's package name*`
B-) Yet, if they have the required permission given by the user, they can use `/sdcard` partition as they wish to store data as well.
A is a default case.
B however, is optional. B is usually preferred when the created data file must be easily accessible by the user (like Whatsapp backups, images etc.) or when the app needs to download additional files to work properly (e.g. game patches)
This applies to **all user apps** therefore the information you try to find is either in somewhere in `/sdcard` or in the related `/data` folder that is `/data/data/com.google.android.apps.magazines`
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/09 | 623 | 2,419 | <issue_start>username_0: I was using the ES File Explorer app, when I noticed there's many different folders with all the same content. Like, there's a "legacy" folder, a "0" folder, and an "sdcard" folder, and it all goes to the same place where my DCIM is and such. I'm wondering if whatever I have takes up three times the space, or its all shortcuts to the same place. I'm confused with all this folder nonsense.<issue_comment>username_1: I don't know about "legacy" or "0", but /sdcard is a symbolic link to the sdcard device folder.
At the terminal, run "ls -l". Add the end of some lines, you will see:
```
sdcard -> /mnt/sdcard
etc -> /system/etc
```
and maybe others depending on your setup. This is [standard Linux setup](http://oreilly.com/linux/command-directory/cmd.csp?path=l/ln), and makes both places link the same place - so there is no duplication.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Because of how Android has evolved over the years many newer devices have the same files mounted (usually with a bind mount) in multiple places. Others are symbolic links. It's really too bad that the file manager app isn't showing you these details :-/
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: It is not exactly true that they go to the same place. The "0" folder as you call is is what is actually stored on the phone. So if you have your camera taking pictures and storing them on the device as opposed to the SD card, you will see those pictures (DCIM folder) under /storage/emulated/0/DCIM. Under EXTSDCard you will see things stored on your removable card.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Prior to ICS, Android used `/system/mnt/sdcard` as the point for mount.
Some versions by manufacturers used `/system/sdcard` instead.
ICS, thereafter, changed it, but kept existing mount point for backwards compatibility with legacy apps.
Now, `/system/storage/sdcard0` or `/system/storage/sdcard1`, particularly, JB on tablets, is used to accomodate multiple user accounts.
Crucial point is the name or alias for external storage is `sdcard` for legacy reasons and will stay that way. Or in technical parlance, *symbolic link* in filesystem terms points to `sdcard`.
Usually, 0 represented internal storage, 1 represented external storage.
The increased trend in dropping SDCard at expense of cheaper to manufacture rewriteable flash drives, bigger capacities, is prevalent.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/02/09 | 196 | 671 | <issue_start>username_0: Is it possible to restore TWRP backup with CWM?
I have some backups with Team Win Recovery. If I install ClockWorkMod, can I restore them with it?<issue_comment>username_1: I checked that myself.
I installed CWM 6.0.1.0 on my Galaxy Tab P5100, then I tried to restore the TWRP backup that I already had, and It didn't work.
Maybe it needs a little more technical work. But with a normal procedure, it doesn't work.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: It wont Work as the two recoveries are only compatible with their own files.
Xda has a thread on this:
<http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2383065>
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/09 | 195 | 685 | <issue_start>username_0: How do I block an unknown number on nexus 5 who keeps calling me . I have looked everywhere but I can't find the option<issue_comment>username_1: There isn't an option that allows you to do it on stock android, you'd have to use an app. I've used [BlackList](http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.baole.app.blacklist) before.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You can try using the [phone warrior app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.visinor.phonewarrior&hl=en). It helps to block unwanted calls and sms
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Use Truecaller app! You can even block a number from sending you texts!
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/02/09 | 346 | 1,345 | <issue_start>username_0: In Play Store, there are two apps with almost same descriptions from same developer: [uTorrent](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.utorrent.client) and [BitTorrent](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bittorrent.client). What's the difference between them?<issue_comment>username_1: Effectively nothing. The two desktop torrent clients, uTorrent and BitTorrent used to be developed by two separate groups. Late 2006, µTorrent was purchased by BitTorrent Inc. Since then, they started shipping BitTorrent as a re-branded uTorrent, but also kept uTorrent around. [Wikipedia](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%CE%9CTorrent#Ownership_change)
Because of this, they maintain one program, but have two versions separated only by name, and it seems as though they carried this over to their Android apps as well.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Agree with the username_1 that both were own by the same community but still feel that Bittorent is slightly better than utorrent. Following are the reason of my claim:
1. In my 10mbps connection, BitTorrent performs better than Utorrent.
2. when I checked both on MAC, Bittorent also feel slightly better than Utorrent.
Here is a guide which can also second my opinion. <https://www.vpnranks.com/utorrent-or-bittorrent/>
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/09 | 329 | 1,183 | <issue_start>username_0: I have Words With Friends, version 6.7.1 that I downloaded from the Amazon app store on the device. The version I have on my Android phone has in-app purchasing enabled, such that one can get the ads free version, etc.
After hunting around on the Kindle Fire version, I can't for the life of me figure out how to enable the in-app purchasing for removing the ads and getting statistics. I have emailed Zynga at least 3 times inquiring about it, but I have never received a reply from them.
Does this feature exist in the Kindle Fire version?<issue_comment>username_1: No, there are currently no in-app purchases available (as of Feb. 11th 2014). If you read the [reviews](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0064X7B4A) on Amazon, you're not the only one who'd like to pay to get an ad-free version, but it's not available.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As of today, 3/23/14, to commemorate the 3rd anniversary of the Amazon App Store, Zynga has released a version for the Kindle Fire with in-app purchasing.
The UI for the updated app mimics the version that had been already available in the Google Play store.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2014/02/07 | 609 | 2,214 | <issue_start>username_0: I have Samsung Galaxy Nexus running on Android 4.2.1. When I run system update it outputs "Your system is up to date". How can I update Android to 4.3
EDIT:
Device's model: Galaxy Nexus (maguro)
Product code: yakjuxw
I'm considering to install CyanogenMod. Can you recommend good backup software.<issue_comment>username_1: You have to wait until Samsung lets out their update with their added components, or flash a custom ROM onto it. I don't know how to do that, so I won't provide a recommendation. Depending on what network you're on, it may be a little while yet.
[An article about that.](http://www.gottabemobile.com/2014/01/23/galaxy-nexus-android-4-3-update-inspires-hope/)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Segmenting off of what <NAME> said, you can go over to XDA Developers and learn how to unlock your phone (so you can tinker with it), install a new recovery (so that you can manipulate at the system level (backups, side-loading, installing new roms, etc.), and install a ROM with the latest android (4.4.2 ATM). If you are using Verizon's gnex, go [here](http://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-nexus/verizon-develop). If you have the GSM varient, go [here](http://forum.xda-developers.com/galaxy-nexus/development). I would recommend anything that ParanoidAndroid, AOKP or CyanogenMod have to offer.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: As the others have said, you have to wait. But it would help to know which Galaxy Nexus you have. Is it a GSM one or Verizon's Galaxy Nexus? I'm pretty sure Verizon has given up on updating that phone at this point. And regardless of which version you have, it won't be updated to 4.4 (see: <https://support.google.com/nexus/answer/3468085?hl=en>)
But as username_2 said, you can always install a custom ROM. The plus side to this is the development community hasn't given up on it and have been getting updates out frequently. Plus, you lose the carrier bloat if yours is a Verizon or Sprint GNex. One word of advice to keep in mind if you go this route, though: installing a custom ROM will require a factory reset and has a whole process to go through. You'll lose any data you don't back up.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/09 | 798 | 3,097 | <issue_start>username_0: This started happening a few days ago but my phone stopped to play music (pausing) on headphones when I:
1. Screen off
2. Notification menu is pulled down
3. Opening all applications on the default stock launcher
Music plays only if the music app is in foreground or if I went to the launcher and not selected anything.
I am using custom rom but it stopped working on it after using it for over a month. I tried to update the rom to a newer one but it still doesn't work.
Music plays fine when not using headphones and just using the speakers.
Phone: Note2
ROM: temasek cm11 (<http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2596887>)
Kernel: Devil's kernel (<http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2239453>)
App: Apollo and Google music (same thing), pretty much every music application on Android<issue_comment>username_1: Are your headphones defective or have a weak spot? You can try a couple of things, such as testing this on another Android device.
It could potentially be the ROM and its ability to detect headphones properly while doing different things (Multi-tasking in a sort of sense).
What you can do is go into Settings and turned Motion off. Sometimes it can sense movement and such and it'll pause accordingly. I'll look into this more but into l your next response, this is what I have to say.
**Update**
It is probably an Android 4.2.2 issue. You can downgrade, wait for an upgrade or perhaps install the 4.3 KitKat ROM.
Other options are trying newer/older versions of the Google Play Music software.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I guess you use GEL? If so, it's because of it listening to "Ok Google". Turn off "Hotword detection" in GEL Voice settings and you'll be fine.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Disabling Google hotword detection fixes this issue in 4.4.4.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: The problem seems to be related to a conflict between voice search from lock screen and music being played from locked screen. For me the following worked on Android 4.4.4 (tried and tested on OmniRom and CyanogenMod):
>
>
> ```
> Go to Google Now | Settings | Voice | Select "Ok Google Detection"
> Uncheck "From lock screen"
>
> ```
>
>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: I got this problem and my Google play assistance open itself and music pause/skip on any kind of music player which I using. Samsung music/Spotify. And now whenever I use another headphone there is no problem. So before doing anything make sure your headphone or your phone socket is fine.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: I have a similar issue with the Galaxy A10e. Only with me it's not when I'm multi tasking but when I have my phone in my pocket. The only thing that helps is messing with my headphone cord as if it was my headphones and no it's not my headphones because it does the same thing with my other headphones. It still does it after I turned of the motion setting.
It's really frustrating because I rather listen to my music than come across potential social situations on my way to work.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/09 | 1,331 | 5,219 | <issue_start>username_0: I am getting these popups regularly. **They do not appear in the notification center** so I can't find out what app is causing them. The only app I can think of that I have installed recently, I have already deleted and they still appear. I am using the Nexus 4 Android 4.2.2. None of the ad detector apps have found anything.
How can I determine what is causing this?
Here is a screenshot of an ad, and a screenshot of my task manager immediately after. I am not sure if the app would have to be running to show the ad:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hLGnD.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yihdF.jpg)<issue_comment>username_1: Try using an ad-block app like AdAway or [AdBlock Plus](https://adblockplus.org/en/android-install) . Most of these apps will show which ads were blocked and from where they originated. You can also check this [link](http://www.hongkiat.com/blog/blocking-ads-in-android/) to know in detail about how to block ads in android
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Download a terminal application for **Android** and run the following *command*:
>
> ps
>
>
>
The "ps" command will list all the running processes / apps.
Inside there you can see and analyze if a "weird" app is running behind and shows those ads.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: If these popups are appearing in front of other apps, look through your installed apps to find any with the "draw over other apps" permission. Most apps don't have that permission, so this should help to narrow down which one might be the culprit.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: I had the same issue. Found a few suggestions on the Internet, like Trustgo ad detector and air push detector. Installed the trustgo app and it found the problem app in in a second. May be this info might be useful for others facing the same issue
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: If such an advert shows up in my device my approaches would be the following ones. Also, at least a day of yours would be killed in doing so but it would reap good results.
Use Firewall
------------
1. Install a firewall and restrict everything from connecting to Internet. See [Closing internet access for some apps](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/106967/96277) and choose a firewall app.
2. Allow one user app in the firewall to connect to Internet. Use that app and see if the ads popup. If negative, then do it for another app.
3. A firewall should be keeping a log of which app is trying to connect to Internet, so that should help as well.
Monitor network connections
---------------------------
When that popup shows up, see which apps are connected to Internet. Use an app like [OS Monitor](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.eolwral.osmonitor). Its **Connection** tab shows all the connected or apps waiting for connection (listening) on a port.
You can use this approach with a firewall. Restrict all those apps which you saw being connected to Internet at the time the ads popup, allow one of the app and use it, and observe if any ads shows up. Similarly, do it for other apps.
This should help in pin-pointing the source. Otherwise, ad blockers are always a choice to use and forget what's causing those popups.
Kill-all approach
-----------------
Either manually or using an app or task manager, kill all the user apps running. Launch one of them, use it and see if the ads popup. Do the same for other user apps. Not a very good approach but nevertheless, it may lead you to source.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: I recently bought a Galaxy S7 Edge. Was getting ADs for Mobile Strike over and over, with sound even when the volume was off. Very frustration. Tried Ad blocker and Malware Bytes. All excellent apps. Nothing worked. Couldn't find the responsible app. Finally had to do a hard reset. That worked.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: I had the same problem with my sony aqua and i found a very simple way to find the app that causing the ad all you have to do is when the ad pops up on your screen just hit the recent apps button and you will see what app is causing the ad.. For me it was Bluetooth app sender and i uninstalled it and the ad is gone
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_8: Had the same problem. Pop up ads even in the middle of playing a game, or just sitting there. I went into setting, and looked at each app. There was an section that says how many megs was used in the last 3 hours. I uninstalled the ones that showed activity in the last 3 hours, no more pop ups! Hope this helps!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_9: I had exacly the same ads you are showing in your screenshot, also apps called Insane Stars and Alarm Clock constantly installing, i looked into services and found and app called 'Tasks' being the culpit. If you dont have a service called Tasks, try to open multitasking while the popup is showing, it will show you the name of the app.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_10: Found my apps to be related to skype. Uninstalled and no more pop ups. One of their permissions was to run over other apps thus the pop ups.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/10 | 1,090 | 4,198 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm using Sony Xperia L (Non-Rooted, Stock OS) which shows me I have 1.52 GBs of Device Memory. "Apps and Media" are taking up 0.98 GB and ~240MB is remaining free. I don't understand where all that extra memory has gone to.
So what exactly is this Device Memory? I read that it's "the memory where Android installs Apps". That doesn't really answer my question because I'm trying to get a better understanding of the missing space here and I hardly have Apps installed. So does anyone know:
1) What is the location on the Internal Memory that is considered as Device Memory? I mean is it a Folder?
2) How exactly does Android go about calculating that "Apps & Media"
3) Is there any way of seeing the File/Folder contents of Device Memory?
If we go to Settings> Storage we have a section called **Device Memory**. Here is a screenshot from my phone.
Notice how the space breakup doesn't add up here.
<issue_comment>username_1: Internal/Device memory is similar to RAM which android OS makes use of. Its location will probably will remain invisible to you since your device is non-rooted.
I am assuming you want access to internal storage and not internal memory. You can access your internal storage which has the path of
**/storage/sdcard0** where '/' is the root directory.
"Apps & Media" contains all your application data (save files , scores etc), your photos & images stored on the device , music files (mp3, ringtones etc) & videos.
You will need to root your device to see the contents of "/" directory as rooting your device will provide you with super user privileges and thus allow rw access to all directories.
You can check this [link](http://www.makeuseof.com/answers/what-is-the-difference-between-internal-storage-and-internal-memory-in-android-gingerbread/) to know more about the difference between storage & memory.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: You might wish to take a look at our fine [internal-storage tag-wiki](https://android.stackexchange.com/tags/internal-storage/info) for a short definition:
>
> Internal storage generally refers to the storage space on your device that can be used for installing applications and their associated data.
>
>
>
It might be a bit confusing, but that's what the terms "device storage" or "phone storage" usually refer to. With most devices, this is where `/data` points to, and also other partitions like `/system`, `/cache`, and `/recovery`. You can find some additional details in the answers to [Android Folder Hiearchy](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/46926/16575).
As `/data` is where the apps store their "private" data (well, to be more precise: that would be `/data/data`), and `/system` is reserved for, hm, the system, on a not rooted devices most content will stay hidden from you ("insufficient privileges" to see/access).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: After a lot of searching around and trial and error I stumbled across the answer to this.
>
> 1) What is the location on the Internal Memory that is considered as
> Device Memory? I mean is it a Folder?
>
>
>
Yes. Device Memory is calculated from the Data folder present under root.
>
> 2) How exactly does Android go about calculating that "Apps & Media"
>
>
> 3) Is there any way of seeing the File/Folder contents of Device
> Memory?
>
>
>
The "Device Memory" includes all the contents of that /Data folder.
* Apps: (apps that are actually installed on my phone),
* Data: that is used by these installed apps,
* Core. I'm yet to find out about this.
* Dalvik Cache: Which gets created for each app that is installed. There is a particular file that is taken from each apk file installed on the phone and put here on the Dalvik Cache.
* Free Space: Finally the much needed answer to where all my free space went off too. It got consumed by the way "Device Memory" is architectured. So if you install around 400MB of apps that is enough to actually fill up 1.5GB of Data folder.
Hope this was of help. Here is a screenshot for reference.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/10 | 838 | 3,357 | <issue_start>username_0: My Galaxy S2 has recently died completely over night. It does not turn on regardless of which combination of buttons I try and how long I press them. I've tried with two different batteries, without a battery, SIM, no SIM and so on. It still seems to recharge the battery as it builds up heat when connected to a charger in the top left corner below the display side camera.
Since I'm certain it is beyond repair I've ordered a new phone and am now thinking about how to get to the stuff that was not on the SD card of the broken one, which I neglected to backup for a few month. I've been thinking about removing the memory device physically. No harm done if I break anything else as I consider it broken already anyway. Unfortunately, there are hardly any resources on the internet that I was able to find in that regard.
So my question is simple: **where is the internal memory in the S2 and how can I rip it out?**
I don't care if I break any other components as long as I get to that memory device.<issue_comment>username_1: It's a chip soldered to the main board in the phone. You can only remove it by desoldering it from the board in a soldering oven. (This is a precisely temperature-controlled device: a kitchen oven won't do.)
Even if you did manage to desolder it safely, the chip itself isn't a lot of use to you. Because it's an internal component, it doesn't fit into a standard reader like an SD card does, so you'd have to either try to solder it into a different phone (which might still not work, if anything on the chip is specific to the old phone), or find the specs and build a new board to fit it.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: This may not be as easy as you think. The eMMC is connected to the board with a [Ball Grid Array (BGA)](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ball_grid_array) connection, which is pretty difficult to reconnect once removed.
You can see photos of the chip and more discussion on the topic on [this](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2154652) XDA post.
As for where the chip is, you might be able to find it on some teardowns, but my eyes didn't catch it in [iFixIts](http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Samsung+Galaxy+S+II+Teardown/5861) photos.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Were you trying to root you phone or install a new ROM on it? It could be possible that if you just plug in the logic board of your old phone into power from an old working Galaxy S2 it might just boot up. If it died overnight without you doing virtually anything to it my guess is that the battery within the phone fails to provide power through the phone i.e the internal circuitry on the power supply which is in the lower section of the phone may not be working. I had similar issues once, mine just magically started working after a month. It was a case of water damage though. If you did try to install a new ROM on the phone it may be bricked and a USB jig might help fix it. They are easily available from eBay or Amazon if you live in the US and are quite easy to make at home as well. You may also try purchasing a new USB MHL board from eBay. Replacement are available for as less at 5$. As username_2 mentioned, the BGA will be nearly impossible to take out and use yourself. Aftermarket data recovery companies might be able to help though.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/10 | 476 | 1,954 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a tablet (Android 4.1) which does not have 3G internet. I have installed Google Earth and I heard that there is a solution for viewing maps offline.
How do I do that?<issue_comment>username_1: As far as I know of, there is a "make available offline" option which allows one to select and download the most recent version of a portion of the map. Of course, you'll need an Internet connection to download it first. How to:
Menu>Make Available Offline;
From there you should be able to select a region to download.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: If its not too much data you are looking for, you can try to clear the cache before you want to save something for offline use. But the cache size is not too big, so don't expect too much.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: As of current writing, Google Earth doesn't support full offline mode, in which you can specify to download certain location's satellite imagery in detail. However, just like Google Maps, you can cache a small portion of it for offline viewing.
Quoting [Google Earth product support](https://support.google.com/earth/answer/21423),
>
> Google Earth works best with a live internet connection. You can, however, cache (save) small amounts of data that you can access when you're offline.
>
>
> To do so, log on to the internet and visit the imagery you'd like to view while you're offline. Please pay attention to the Streaming indicator, which appears just below and a little to the right of your images. When this indicator has reached 100% for the imagery you're viewing, Google Earth has gathered all available data for that specific altitude and settings, so you can disconnect from the internet.
>
>
> Please remember that once you're disconnected, you'll be able to view cached areas only.
>
>
>
Note: there's no streaming indicator in Google Earth app. Instead, you can wait until the images are fully loaded.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/10 | 315 | 1,267 | <issue_start>username_0: I downloaded and installed GO Launcher and there was an icon preinstalled with it. I clicked on it once accidentally, and it opened in the Play Store. Now when I try to use Chrome anytime, it force opens the Play Store right away to Spartan Wars. I can't use Chrome at all now and this is driving me nuts.
I'd like to fix this issue without having to uninstall GO Launcher, since I just it set up. In the meantime, I downloaded Firefox so I can ask this question.
I also installed the game then uninstalled it to no avail. Could someone explain why and how to prevent it?<issue_comment>username_1: `settings -> applications -> manage applications -> chrome -> clear defaults` might help you.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: [From OP themself](https://android.stackexchange.com/revisions/63199/2):
---
I got it fixed although I'm not sure which one of these things did the trick.
I went into the Application Manager and scrolled across to "All"
I then scrolled down Google Play Store and cleared the data.
Next I scrolled down to Chrome, I force stopped it, cleared the data, then turned it off and then back on.
Doing that seemed to do the trick, although I'm not sure which one of those steps was the right one.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/10 | 192 | 778 | <issue_start>username_0: Every time I try the OTA download it gives me an error while installing, which I presume is because I've rooted the phone.
It's a European model if it matters.<issue_comment>username_1: you can unroot it by using framaroot before that put a superuser in your storage and then you can have the option of unrooting your phone,and the other way is use cyanogenmod
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: You might have to (re-) flash the complete (stock) ROM. Rooting involves changing things on the `/system` partition, which changes its [checksum](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Checksum). Some OTA updates use the checksum to see whether the update "fits", and thus will refuse to install if not. Looks like your Moto falls into this category.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/10 | 865 | 3,177 | <issue_start>username_0: I activated the Android Runtime (ART) instead of Dalvik and after that my phone rebooted but it seems that it's stuck in a bootloop.
Will the first bot after choosing ART take some extra time? How can I tell if it's stuck in a bootloop rather than just booting slowly?
My device is an HTC Explorer running CM 11 beta 4 build.<issue_comment>username_1: I'm not using your device but doing a quick search i found this:
>
> Before using ART, you have to enable expanding memory in Settings ->
> Extras!
>
>
>
You might want to do that before enabling ART next time.
You can get more infos on
[here](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2535682)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: The first boot after swapping to ART generally takes a little longer to boot. After that it then recompiles every app using the new runtime before you can actually use the device. During this stage the device actually displays a message with it's current progress. If it never gets to that stage then there is a decent chance that Android is stuck trying to boot.
If it's stuck in a bootloop, you should see your phone continually swap from the HTC boot logo to the CM boot logo and back again. If it's stuck on just the CM boot logo then there is a chance that it is actually booting and just taking a long time.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Try draining the battery, then put it on a charger and try to boot. The same thing happened here on a Motorola Moto G 2nd generation.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I did the same thing. As the memory space was less in my Moto e, it went to boot loop. First it showed around 169 apps installation figure but after completing that it showed lower nos. in successive boots. After a while when I rebooted it forcefully many times, it started but now with lesser space remaining than Dalvik.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Follow the steps below:
1. `adb pull /data/property/persist.sys.dalvik.vm.lib`
2. Open the file and replace the `libart.so` with `libdvm.so`.
3. `adb push persist.sys.dalvik.vm.lib /data/property/`.
4. Reboot your device.
Source: [Phone in boot loop after turning on ART (didn't completely uninstall XPosed)](http://www.reddit.com/r/Nexus5/comments/218wgj/phone_in_boot_loop_after_turning_on_art_didnt/cgars3m).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: I know that this thread is old, but this may help others in the same situation. My mobile is a LG G2 Mini (D618) rooted with Kingo. After I changed it from Dalvik to ART, it took a long time to reboot, while optimizing all the apps. But then, when the UI showed up, I couldn't do anything because several error messages appeared in sequence. After a while touching OK for each message, the mobile would reboot and start it all over again. In fact it rebooted even if left alone.
I re-flashed it with the stock ROM (with the no-data-loss option) but nothing changed other than it becoming unrooted again. Also tried to access it with an ADB Shell but I kept getting an authorization error. Then, after rebooting it around 30 times, it reverted back to Dalvik by itself, and everything was fine again!
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/11 | 856 | 3,339 | <issue_start>username_0: This is what I am currently running:
```
Verizon Motorola Droid 4
Android Version 4.1.2
System Version 98.72.189.XT894.Verizon.en.US
Last update Nov 21 2013
```
Prior to this Nov 21st update, I was able to set a custom ringtone, notification, and alarm on my phone. Custom meaning I can upload a sound file of my choice and have my phone play it.
After the update, I am still allowed to set a custom ringtone and notification, however I am prohibited from setting a custom alarm sound.
Is it possible to still choose my own alarm sound **without** rooting or installing an app?'
*Note: Previous question/answers don't concern this update or suggest installing a third party app.*
EDIT: To change alarms, I go to: `Apps -> Clock -> Set Alarm -> Settings`. When choosing an alarm sound, I am only allowed the default selection from the phone, whereas with ringtones and notifications (in `System Settings -> Sound`), I am able to select from my custom made sound files.<issue_comment>username_1: There is a way around which I was able to use. Convert your favorite Alarm tone to `.ogg` format using any online tool. Following is a link to one of them -
[audio.online-convert.com/convert-to-ogg](http://audio.online-convert.com/convert-to-ogg)
Now go to your \Systems folder and find the \Ringtones or \Alarms folder. There you can paste the converted `.ogg` file. Try to keep the file size below 200KB.
Now, go to your alarms and you can find the Alarm tone in the Default Alarm-tone list.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: The folder `Media` is the where all the Sound files are actually stored. Inside `Media`, it has its own `Alarms`, `Notifications`, and `Ringtones` folder. These are the folders where each respective sound file belongs.
In my case, I wanted to create a custom alarm. I thought it would be as simple as dropping a sound file in there, but it wasn't. **THERE'S A TRICK**. In order for the Android phone to recognize your file as an actual alarm, the file must have `Alarm` appended to its name.
Example : If your song/file name is `Unwell.mp3`, then you have to rename it to `Unwell Alarm.mp3`.
Only after you include the `Alarm` in the name will it become an Alarm.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: There is a folder called "Alarms" in your SD card. Just paste the sounds/songs you want to set there and it should appear when selecting sounds for the alarm.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: To change my alarms I use the [ES File explorer](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.estrongs.android.pop) app:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When I go to change the alarm it asks which app you want to change it with (if you have not set a default). I am able to chose between the built in media app and ES file explorer. If I chose ES File Explorer then I will be able to chose a file without having to shuffle around media files.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: Simply rename the file; right click and rename, at the end of the file name, remove the old file extension type, (ie .mp3) and change it to .ogg and it will be available to use. It will say it may become unstable, but in my experience it works just fine.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/11 | 5,078 | 19,213 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm starting to use Google Authenticator for more and more things now, but I've just realized that if I lose my phone, or if I need to wipe and restore it to install new firmware, I will lose all of my codes.
Is there anyway to back them up please? Or some kind of fallback that means I can restore it to a new device?<issue_comment>username_1: You don't need to back up the Google Authenticator app/data as you can create a list of 'Backup codes' which you can use to log in without requiring a authentication code on the [same page](https://accounts.google.com/b/0/SmsAuthSettings) that you configure 2-step authentication.
>
> **Why print or download backup codes?**
>
>
> Backup codes are especially useful for people who travel, have problems receiving SMS or voice calls, or cannot use the Google Authenticator mobile app.
>
>
> Recommendation: You should print or download backup codes
>
>
>
Store these in a safe place (or print them out) and if you lose your phone you can use one of these codes to log into your account and set up a new device with the Authenticator app.
Whilst this applies to Google's 2-step-authentication, any other sites you have configured to use the Google Authenticator app should offer a similar option, or another way to receive codes (e.g. Facebook supports Google Authenticator, their own app and sms as methods to receive codes).
Upvotes: 6 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: [Titanium Backup (link to Google play store)](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.keramidas.TitaniumBackup&hl=en) will backup any android app, including Google Authenticator. However, you must root your phone for this to be a viable option.
I would also recommend printing the Google backup codes too. This isn't quite backing up the Google Authenticator app, but they would allow you to reset the authenticator if necessary. This would only help for regaining access to your Google account though.
Backing up the app with Titanium Backup is the most complete option, in my opinion. It's saved me on a number of occasions.
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_3: Try [Authenticator Plus](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mufri.authenticatorplus), it supports backup/restore functionality with sync across devices. If you have a phone/tablet, this app syncs all accounts between them flawlessly. It even supports Android wear. It has logos support too.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_4: The following method will only work rooted Android devices.
Linux:
`adb pull /data/data/com.google.android.apps.authenticator2/databases/databases /AFolderOnPC`
Windows:
`adb pull /data/data/com.google.android.apps.authenticator2/databases/databases C:\AFolderOnPC`
Note that the folder on the PC has to already exist.
This will copy the authenticator database files with the main keys, from which the One Time Passwords are generated, to the PC. The file can then be restored to the same location, on Android devices, or read with an sqlite database viewer to extract the keys.
Upvotes: 7 <issue_comment>username_5: The following method will only work on rooted Android devices. This method is more useful for the not-so tech savvy people or the people like me > who don't want to waste time installing Android SDK + JDK from scratch just to run the adb command.
So here it is:
1. Download and install any "Root explorer" app from Google Play store. I use the popular and free [FX file explorer](http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=nextapp.fx "Fx File Explorer at Google Play") with its free FX root access addon. You can use others too. This app makes it possible for us to access the Android system as a root user.
2. Once you open the file explorer in System root > Click "data" folder > Click "data" folder (inside the other data folder) > Copy the folder named `com.google.android.apps.authenticator2` > Exit System root folder > Open normal Main storage / SD storage space and Paste the Folder here.
3. Connect your android device to a PC and Backup the folder to a secure USB / external HDD.
That's it. Now, whenever you need to reinstall your firmware/ buy a new phone just follow the steps above and copy that folder to the exact same directory once you've installed the Google Authenticator app.
OR, you can use a free Open source SQLite GUI editor like "SQLite Database Browser Portable" to open the "databases" file inside the "com.google.android.apps.authenticator2" folder. In the "Browse Data" tab, you can see the key and name corresponding to the key so that you can manually enter the key into the Google Authenticator app.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: Here is a link to simple Python script on my website: <http://username_6.com.ua/google-authenticator-backup/>
You just paste your code and run them in Python environment.
How it works:
During setting up and configuring two-factor authentication with Google Authenticator, it is possible not only to scan QR-code, but get the code, for example, for Google Mail we get: `csnji4rfndisoh323fdsioah3u2iodso`.
For generating TOTP on your computer with Python IDLE your can define this function:
```
def totpgen ():
import time
import hmac
import hashlib
import base64
### TOTP-key for Google
#secret = base64.b32decode("csnji4rfndisoh323fdsioah3u2iodso", True)
#totp for btc-e
#secret = base64.b32decode("DHSJHDW89E8DFUS98RIO23J390EFU234IR90WEUIF903DMSKAKDS====")
### Calc counter from UNIX time (see RFC6238)
counter = long(time.time() / 30)
### Use counter as 8 byte array
bytes=bytearray()
for i in reversed(range(0, 8)):
bytes.insert(0, counter & 0xff)
counter >>= 8
### Calculate HMAC-SHA1(secret, counter)
hs = bytearray(hmac.new(secret, bytes, hashlib.sha1).digest())
### Truncate result (see RFC4226)
n = hs[-1] & 0xF
result = (hs[n] << 24 | hs[n+1] << 16 | hs[n+2] << 8 | hs[n+3]) & 0x7fffffff
### Print last 6 digits
return str(result)[-6:]
```
Insert into line
```
secret = base64.b32decode("csnji4rfndisoh323fdsioah3u2iodso", True)
```
your code instead of `"csnji4rfndisoh323fdsioah3u2iodso"`
uncomment line, and call in IDLE
```
totpgen ()
```
You will get your TOTP!)
For service btc-e try to use line
```
secret = base64.b32decode("DHSJHDW89E8DFUS98RIO23J390EFU234IR90WEUIF903DMSKAKDS====")
```
For other services - like described above.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_7: It turns out that original tokens (usually represented to the user as QR codes) are stored in the SQLite database inside the `/data/data/com.google.android.apps.authenticator2/databases` folder and can be extracted from the device.
I automated and explained the recovery process here: <https://github.com/username_7/extract-google-authenticator-credentials>
This project extracts original tokens, then generates a web page with QR codes you can rescan on a new device.
Feel free to contribute.
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_8: You can save the QR codes when you setup or renew your 2FA. You can save the QR by making a screenshot. Or using the context menu 'save image as' but this is not always available. (Make sure to give the images a corresponding name with the account and backup in a secure location). For restoration just rescan the QR codes in Google Authenticator.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_9: As I have experienced same just some time before. When you would be signing in to your account you will get page for key to put 6 digit code. At this place you can change second key and get in phone number if you have any number verified already. And for more backup you can choose an other computers as trusted. So, they won't ask second step code on those computers.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_10: The easiest way to handle this is to take a screenshot of the QR code whenever you setup a new Authenticator for a site and save it in an encrypted location.
If you need to reinstall or add the Authenticator for that site to another phone, simply add the account in Authenticator by scanning the QR code in the screenshot just as if you were setting up a new site.
Before you negativoids say this won't work, yes it does, and you CAN have the same Authenticator on multiple devices.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_11: As a preface this is an approach for configuring MFA ahead of time so that it is always backed up, not recovering or backing up existing codes.
I just went through this process after my Nexus 6P stopped connecting to data and I had to setup all my MFA again on a Pixel. I realized that if I lost my phone or did the factory data reset I'd have been totally borked.
The simplest solution I came up with is to ignore the QR code based setup and just use the token based setup itself (it's the "manual" option in most authenticator apps). Every service I've used so far allows you to opt for the token-based setup rather than QR.
Rather than going through the trouble of taking screen shots of the QR codes, labeling them appropriately and then GPG encrypting them and securely storing them somewhere I just store the tokens in an encrypted vault and setup my MFA manually.
I verified that you can setup clones of the authenticator using the same key on independent devices running simultaneously. Thus, so long as you securely control the tokens, you can configure MFA on any device.
I'm satisfied with this result as I didn't have to do anything more than reconfigure MFA (I had to do this anyway in my circumstances) and simply add all the tokens to lastpass. Now I'm covered in the case of phone loss and can configure other devices if need be.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: On a rooted phone, you can use the [Amaze File Manager](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.amaze.filemanager) app.
1. Go to the root `/data/data/com.google.android.apps.authenticator2/database` directory. Open the database file as a database.
2. Select accounts. You will have 3 columns `_id`, `email`, and `secret`.
3. Copy the `secret` value.
4. When you need to restore just add, select "Enter a provided key", give it a name, and paste in the value.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_12: There are a lot of advice for rooted phones. But it isn't recommended to root your device if you don’t want to make it vulnerable. Two-factor authentication provides an additional layer of protection and by rooting you bring it to naught since different viruses could get an access to protected memory areas.
Only small amount of services offer backup codes (particularly Google). For these services, you should save backup codes.
The best solution is to save the QR codes (or the secret keys) in the moment of token enrollment and keep them in some safe place. Then if you lose your phone you could restore tokens in Google Authenticator on your new device.
Also, you can use hardware tokens. They can be in the form of key fob or credit card.
Have a look at this article on the blog of Protectimus (the company where I work) to get more information how to backup Google Authenticator: [How to Backup Google Authenticator or Transfer It to a New Phone](https://www.protectimus.com/blog/google-authenticator-backup/?utm_source=AndroidEnthusiasts&utm_medium=comment&utm_campaign=jan_18).
\* **Disclosure**: I work for the website linked above.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_13: ***2020.04.23†:* Update the app, then go `Settings > Transfer Accounts`.** (then breathe)
=========================================================================================
**Takes me one second to scan QR codes between two phones,** took us years to agree it was a feature worth coding even despite it's inherent security risks, meaning be careful, **if you can scan in one second then so can someone else.**
**I believe [https://android.stackexchange.com/a/224962/238005†](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/224962/238005%E2%80%A0) first spotted there is now (after 2020) an official feature/ability to backup/export your list of accounts in a reasonable fashion, which is mentioned inconspicuously at <https://support.google.com/accounts/answer/1066447> in the middle of nowhere.** Sadly, am I really the first answer with this (official update) in this whole question thread? I fear for our life's data if this idea took this long to think of, and I had to learn through here. Because the option was hidden in a toolbar, and not even a Push Notification for this issue that actually matters.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_14: Originally, when this question was asked, there was no simple solution: people would need to extract the data from an internal sqlite database that wasn't available unless your phone was rooted.
Fortunately, since the first half of 2020, the [Google Authenticator app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.authenticator2) was updated:
>
> WHAT'S NEW
>
>
> * Added the ability to transfer accounts to a different device, e.g. when switching phones
> * Refreshed the look and feel of the app
>
>
>
How you can export the codes from your Google Authenticator
-----------------------------------------------------------
1. Tap on the ⋮ ellipsis at the top right (AKA overflow menu).
2. Tap on **Transfer accounts** at the menu.
3. Choose **Export accounts**.
4. Unlock your phone (use the pin, pattern, password, biometrics…). *(Sidenote: Your phone has this protection, right? You shouln't leave your phone totally unlocked.)*
5. Choose the accounts you wish to export. By default all accounts are already selected.
6. Tap **Next**. A QR code will be generated.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hG84h.gif)
After exporting the accounts, Google Authenticator app will display a banner at the top: "Accounts were recently exported"
Additionally, it will warn the user with a notification, a few hours later.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BvsYm.png)
Intermission: understanding the QR codes
----------------------------------------
When a website shows you a QR code for enabling 2FA, the code encodes a [URI like this](https://github.com/google/google-authenticator/wiki/Key-Uri-Format):
```
otpauth://totp/Example:<EMAIL>?secret=…&issuer=Example&…
```
However, when you export the codes from Google Authenticator, the URI in the QR code is different:
```
otpauth-migration://offline?data=…
```
“The data parameter is a base64 encoded proto3 message (Google Protocol Buffers).” [[citation](https://github.com/scito/extract_otp_secret_keys#technical-background)] That message contains all the exported codes.
However, as you can see, the exported URI is formatted completely differently than the initial URI to setup 2FA. This means many 2FA apps won't be able to scan such QR code, because they won't understand the message.
How to use the exported QR code
-------------------------------
Now that you have the QR code, you can use a second device to scan it. You have a few options.
### ① Import into Google Authentication on another device
At the **Transfer accounts** screen, choose **Import accounts** and scan the QR code.
### ② Import into another 2FA app
[Aegis](https://github.com/beemdevelopment/Aegis) is an open-source 2FA app that allows importing data from multiple apps, and also allows exporting its own data (in an optionally encrypted JSON file). It can even show a standard `otpauth`-style QR code from any of its codes, making it trivial to export to any other app. It is available on both [Google Play](http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.beemdevelopment.aegis) and [F-Droid](https://f-droid.org/app/com.beemdevelopment.aegis).
When using Aegis, just try to scan the QR code normally, as if you were doing a first-time 2FA setup. [Aegis has native support for scanning `otpauth-migration` URIs from Google Authenticator](https://github.com/beemdevelopment/Aegis/issues/582#issuecomment-684784115).
There might be other apps with a similar feature, I'm just not aware of any of them.
### ③ Manually decode and extract the data
You can use a plain QR code scanner to decode the `otpauth-migration` URI from the QR code. Then you can use [scito's tool](https://github.com/scito/extract_otp_secret_keys) or [digitalduke's tool](https://github.com/digitalduke/otpauth-migration-decoder) to extract the secrets and generate the appropriate `otpauth` URIs that can be imported into any app (after encoding them to QR codes).
References and acknowledgements
-------------------------------
* [*username_13*'s answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/240647) showed me the newly-available **Transfer accounts** feature.
* Related questions:
+ [How to migrate accounts to new Google Authenticator app?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/92906)
+ [Can you use a screenshot of the "export accounts" QR Code of Google Authenticator as a backup?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/229002)
* [Authenticator Test](https://rootprojects.org/authenticator/) for a quick way to generating dummy 2FA codes.
* [scrcpy](https://github.com/Genymobile/scrcpy) for the screen recording.
+ Google Authenticator blocks screenshots, but I could use scrcpy to record the screen anyway. (Although that seems to be blocked on newer Android versions.)
* [ffmpeg](http://www.ffmpeg.org/) and [gifski](https://gif.ski/) for converting the video into a high-quality GIF, and then [GIMP](https://www.gimp.org/) to manually edit the GIF to remove redundant frames and considerably reduce the final file size.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_15: Fast forward to April 2023, **Google Authenticator now allows the user to sync the entries to their Google Account.**
As reported on [Google Security Blog - Google Authenticator now supports Google Account synchronization](https://security.googleblog.com/2023/04/google-authenticator-now-supports.html),
>
> We are excited to announce an update to Google Authenticator, across both iOS and Android, which adds the ability to safely backup your one-time codes (also known as one-time passwords or OTPs) to your Google Account.
>
>
> [...]
>
>
> One major piece of feedback we’ve heard from users over the years was the complexity in dealing with lost or stolen devices that had Google Authenticator installed. Since one time codes in Authenticator were only stored on a single device, a loss of that device meant that users lost their ability to sign in to any service on which they’d set up 2FA using Authenticator.
>
>
> With this update we’re rolling out a solution to this problem, making one time codes more durable by storing them safely in users’ Google Account. This change means users are better protected from lockout and that services can rely on users retaining access, increasing both convenience and security.
>
>
> [...]
>
>
> To try the new Authenticator with Google Account synchronization, simply update the app and follow the prompts.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/11 | 592 | 2,311 | <issue_start>username_0: I had problems with constant unmounting of my SD card from phone when it was not on charger. The problem was with powering off some power when disabling display to save energy, but this power was needed to keep SD card mounted.
My phone is LG Optimus L1 II E410, but from what I found during my long search for solution, it is not the only phone affected.
How can I stop this from happening?<issue_comment>username_1: The solution is to install program [Wake Lock](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.thedarken.wl) and set the setting to `PARTIAL_WAKE_LOCK`. This keep necessary power for SD card even if of charger and with disabled display. It obviously cause a bit more battery consumption, but far less then constant SD card remounting. No root needed.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I had the same problem on Alcatel POP C5 with Kingston 8GB micro SD class-10 card. First, I thought that the problem was with the phone. After replacing with another, borrowed card, the phone was working normal again, so I concluded that it was the bad SD card.
Using [Wake Lock - PowerManager](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.thedarken.wl) with `PARTIAL_WAKE_LOCK` enabled did solve the problem, partialy. I wanted the permanent solution so I keep trying to solve the problem.
The first time I realized the card was unmounting, when phone was on standby, was this summer when outside temperatures exceeded 35°C. I thought if hot temperature caused the problem, it might be also the solution to it.
First, I took my soldering iron and heat all MicroSD card metal contacts for approximately 10 seconds. After that, the phone was not unmounting the card for 20-30 minutes, but then it started showing error messages again. Then, I heated each contact, once more, for 2 minutes. The card was too hot to touch it with my hand, and I was worried not to melt the plastic. After that intervention, the card did not melt, all of the data was still on it and the card is working in my phone for 2 days now, without unmounting.
I hope that this is a permanent solution and that will help someone else too.
Just to say that *I am not responsible if someone damage their card or data attempting to do this*. **DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK!**
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/11 | 771 | 3,034 | <issue_start>username_0: My phone started rebooting all by itself all the time after I did 2 things with it. Installed Snapdragon BatteryGuru and put it on learning mode (for an estimated 3 days I guess) so that I could start saving battery by the app learning my behavior, and cleaned RAM with CleanMaster. These were the only changes I've done, I don't remember which was first but soon my phone started rebooting whether I was handling it or not at random intervals.
I've also noticed the phone was hot all the time, the Note 3 runs into some hot period with some frequency but not with that frequency. I've uninstalled both apps and it didn't work, wiped cache and it didn't work. The phone was still rebooting even on safe mode. After I wiped Dalvik with the help of TWRP, I thought the problem went away but when I hit the power button to turn the screen off, the phone rebooted and it will now always reboot when the screen turns off, even if it's just from the phone being inactive. It doesn't boot-loops, it just reboots, then after a random time, can be seconds, can be half an hour, it will reboot again. Note 3 SM-N9003 VJUBMI6.<issue_comment>username_1: The solution is to install program [Wake Lock](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.thedarken.wl) and set the setting to `PARTIAL_WAKE_LOCK`. This keep necessary power for SD card even if of charger and with disabled display. It obviously cause a bit more battery consumption, but far less then constant SD card remounting. No root needed.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I had the same problem on Alcatel POP C5 with Kingston 8GB micro SD class-10 card. First, I thought that the problem was with the phone. After replacing with another, borrowed card, the phone was working normal again, so I concluded that it was the bad SD card.
Using [Wake Lock - PowerManager](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.thedarken.wl) with `PARTIAL_WAKE_LOCK` enabled did solve the problem, partialy. I wanted the permanent solution so I keep trying to solve the problem.
The first time I realized the card was unmounting, when phone was on standby, was this summer when outside temperatures exceeded 35°C. I thought if hot temperature caused the problem, it might be also the solution to it.
First, I took my soldering iron and heat all MicroSD card metal contacts for approximately 10 seconds. After that, the phone was not unmounting the card for 20-30 minutes, but then it started showing error messages again. Then, I heated each contact, once more, for 2 minutes. The card was too hot to touch it with my hand, and I was worried not to melt the plastic. After that intervention, the card did not melt, all of the data was still on it and the card is working in my phone for 2 days now, without unmounting.
I hope that this is a permanent solution and that will help someone else too.
Just to say that *I am not responsible if someone damage their card or data attempting to do this*. **DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK!**
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/11 | 554 | 2,080 | <issue_start>username_0: I am looking for a way to establish a "Do not Disturb" Mode (like on iOS) that does at least the following (on an unrooted phone):
* Switches ringer and notifications to Silent (disable vibrate, vol = 0) during a special time
* Lets repeated calls through (if anyone really wants to phone me)
* Still allows the alarm clock to ring
* Is disabled when phone is in use (e.g. display is active)
* Manually enableable/disableable (for a specific time)
**Cool would also be:**
* Enables only when I put the phone in the charger during the specific time
* Does not enable when connected with my car via Bluetooth
Is there any way to achieve this? If not natively, maybe by using some application? My phone and tablet are unrooted.<issue_comment>username_1: It sounds like [Agent](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tryagent) fits the bill for you. Specifically, the Sleep Agent.
I do use the Agent app, though I don't use the Sleep Agent itself, so this list of features is just me going through the setup options in the app.
* Set Days & Times for it to activate. (defaults to 11:00 PM through 7:00 the next morning, Sunday through Thursday nights.)
* Selectable whether it does 'Silence' or 'Vibrate'.
* Has a whitelist of callers that are allowed to get through. (And selectable whether unknown callers get through or not.)
* Can wait until plugged in before starting.
* Can auto-respond with a text saying "I'm sleeping, text 'urgent' to wake me up."
* Right off your request list, it can allow repeated calls to get through.
(I use Agent mostly for the Meeting Agent: It links to the Google Calendar on my work account, and auto-silences the phone for the duration of the meeting.)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: [Llama](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.kebab.Llama) is a great tool! It receives GSM tower ID and learns your locations (home, work, school) so you can set which profile to turn at specific location at specific time.
Best feature is that it's NOT a battery drainer.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/11 | 498 | 1,924 | <issue_start>username_0: So I downloaded a lockscreen for MIUI from the themes app but apparently it doesn't go well with my phone and it just displays the wallpaper without the actual lockscreen. The problem is, now, I can't unlock the phone as there is nothing to drag on the screen. My phone is also secured by a pattern. How do I remove this problematic custom lockscreen and revert to the stock one?
Obviously I'd either have to do it via ADB or something. Can anyone help me out? I can restart the phone and all but that's really all I can do since everything else is behind the lockscreen.<issue_comment>username_1: It sounds like [Agent](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tryagent) fits the bill for you. Specifically, the Sleep Agent.
I do use the Agent app, though I don't use the Sleep Agent itself, so this list of features is just me going through the setup options in the app.
* Set Days & Times for it to activate. (defaults to 11:00 PM through 7:00 the next morning, Sunday through Thursday nights.)
* Selectable whether it does 'Silence' or 'Vibrate'.
* Has a whitelist of callers that are allowed to get through. (And selectable whether unknown callers get through or not.)
* Can wait until plugged in before starting.
* Can auto-respond with a text saying "I'm sleeping, text 'urgent' to wake me up."
* Right off your request list, it can allow repeated calls to get through.
(I use Agent mostly for the Meeting Agent: It links to the Google Calendar on my work account, and auto-silences the phone for the duration of the meeting.)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: [Llama](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.kebab.Llama) is a great tool! It receives GSM tower ID and learns your locations (home, work, school) so you can set which profile to turn at specific location at specific time.
Best feature is that it's NOT a battery drainer.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/11 | 655 | 2,295 | <issue_start>username_0: Occasionally my phone (specs below) will awake to the dots on the lock screen being all the way up in the corner. I can't unlock it because the other 6 dots are cut off and turning the phone or sleep/awaking it doesn't change the layout. My only option, annoyingly, is to restart.
Here's an image of it doing it this morning:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PIF1O.png)
Screenshot (click for larger variant)
The white chunk is an ICE number I've hidden. How do I stop this?
My phone is:
* A Samsung Galaxy S2X SGH-T989D on Koodo
* Running Android version 4.0.4
* Kernel Version 3.0.8-perf-T989DTLLG2-CL836160 se.infra@SEP-89#1 SMP PREEMPT Fri Jul 13 23:39:44 KST 2012
* Build Number IMM76D.TLLG2
* Using a stock lock screen
Thanks for any assistance.<issue_comment>username_1: Factory reset is the only solution. At the very least it will exclude software issues.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: My best guess would be an issue that is causing part of the render process of slide lock to take place in landscape mode. I have no idea why that would happen although I have had some strange screen rotation issues with my nexus 7 and a factory reset did indeed fix it.
But since you don't want to turn to that here are some suggestions:
-Try locking rotation on your phone (unlocking when needed)
-Switch your lock screen to PIN or password (there error could be isolated to the slide password).
-Upgrade to a new version of android using kies (it should be available)
Let me know if any of those work out
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: After enough frustration with this issue I actually moved to a custom ROM. This mainly happens due to rotation as mentioned by [username_2](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/63467/6204)
I used to face this issue when I had the phone in landscape mode, in an app and then locked the phone! When it came back on there was major juggling and it used to end up this way!
Software Fix:
1. Pray that samsung fixes it! or
2. Get a custom rom!
Temporary fix:
1) Dont lock your phone without exiting an app in landscape mode
Sorry but this was what I used to do, given S2 is a pretty old phone I highly doubt an official fix for it.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2014/02/11 | 490 | 1,942 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm sure this one is just a PEBKAC error, so please bear with me since I am new to Android.
I've uploaded all of my music to Google Play Music and I can see all of my songs via their web interface. However, on my Moto X, there's at least one song missing. I have tried refreshing the Google Play app on the phone to no avail. I haven't had time yet to go through all of my hundreds of albums to see if any others are missing songs, as well. Any thoughts?<issue_comment>username_1: Factory reset is the only solution. At the very least it will exclude software issues.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: My best guess would be an issue that is causing part of the render process of slide lock to take place in landscape mode. I have no idea why that would happen although I have had some strange screen rotation issues with my nexus 7 and a factory reset did indeed fix it.
But since you don't want to turn to that here are some suggestions:
-Try locking rotation on your phone (unlocking when needed)
-Switch your lock screen to PIN or password (there error could be isolated to the slide password).
-Upgrade to a new version of android using kies (it should be available)
Let me know if any of those work out
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: After enough frustration with this issue I actually moved to a custom ROM. This mainly happens due to rotation as mentioned by [username_2](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/63467/6204)
I used to face this issue when I had the phone in landscape mode, in an app and then locked the phone! When it came back on there was major juggling and it used to end up this way!
Software Fix:
1. Pray that samsung fixes it! or
2. Get a custom rom!
Temporary fix:
1) Dont lock your phone without exiting an app in landscape mode
Sorry but this was what I used to do, given S2 is a pretty old phone I highly doubt an official fix for it.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2014/02/11 | 1,089 | 3,969 | <issue_start>username_0: Today I got brand new Cubot GT-99, added my Google acc but when I try to install any app it throws error:
```
"Some App Name" could not be downloaded due to an error(403)
```
Also app update throws a bunch of errors:
```
Update for "Some App Name" could not be downloaded due to an error(403)
```
I tried factory reset, and even another Google account and it still doesn't work.
Also, I tried clearing proxy settings, and still no results.
This is the only problem with this phone, everything other works excellent.
Any help, please? Thank in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: It seems there is a problem with Google play.
Please take a look at the [issue tracker](https://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?can=2&start=0&num=100&q=&colspec=ID%20Type%20Status%20Owner%20Summary%20Stars&groupby=&sort=&id=65826).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Remove google play store from the multitasking menu and try again
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Got it!! (just had the same problem after updating from 4.3.2 to 4.4.2)
1. go to settings - Apps - All - and open Google Play Store
2. Click on "force Stop" then "clear data" then "clear cache"
3. Go Back to settings - Accounts - and remove account and add it back again (available for KK) or change it to the same actual password
4. Open market place and install a brand new app (never used before) and then install and update every thing you need :)
i9100 - CM11 KK 4.4.2
gapps- kk- 20140105
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Download .apk file of google play from [here](http://www.androidpolice.com/2013/11/01/download-latest-google-play-store-4-4-22/). If your device has the option, first select 'Uninstall updates' from your app manager for google play app. Then install this .apk file and then try using it. (You should also remove your google acc before uninstall/install).
Let me know if this worked!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Just a note to help someone else with this on a Samsung S5 LTE
>
> could not be downloaded due to an error. (403)
>
>
>
Everything was going great with my brand new S5, until I turned on the Download Turbo.
Note, prior to turning on the booster, I was installing apps successfully over a WiFi connection.
I turned on Download Booster hoping to install apps from previous phone quicker.
Natural enough thing to do when you have 30 apps to get through, wouldn't you think?
All of a sudden I couldn't download anything from Google the Play Store.
Oddly, The Galaxystore (a wierd *extra* Play Store that comes with Galaxy Phones) worked, but most of my apps were not there, and those that were did not know I had purchased them.
After perusing the web, and resetting things and changing Google accounts, etc., I finally tried turning of my WiFi connection, and switching to only 4G mobile data.
Of course the S5's Download Booster was off now.
As if by magic, everything in Google Play Store started working again!
Okay, so maybe something in the Download Booster tries to make multiple connections to the Google Play Store server, and it doesn't like that.
So I turned off Download Booster, and turned on the WiFi, and turned off the 4G mobile data connection. Back to plain WiFi, as per the data connectivity configuration that was working in the beginning...
Alas, Google Play Store would not work again (same error), even with *only* WiFi on now.
Back to 4G, switch off WiFi, everything works on Google Play Store again. Consternation!
In summary:
If you have an S5 and you turn on the Samsung 4G + WiFi Booster and connect to Google Play Store, kiss your connectivity to Google Play Store via WiFi goodbye forever.
You can still connect with just 4G Mobile Data (as long as WiFi is *off*).
It's almost as if the Google Play Store server remembers indefinitely that you *once* tried to connect with WiFi and 4G together, and forbids your WiFi connectivity henceforth.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/12 | 400 | 1,346 | <issue_start>username_0: How to install 'Google play services' over an android phone samsung galaxy Y S5360 using my PC? Will it require kies?I am facing the similar issue as faced by this gentleman ([Can't install Google Play Services](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/42335/cant-install-google-play-services/42966#42966?newreg=dae7b3f79b134606ae28619482bc84e0)). The resolution has been provided in the link but I dont know how to install apps over my phone via a PC. Pls<issue_comment>username_1: Open your browser and log-in to <https://play.google.com/> using your Google account. Then, open this link on your browser: <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.gms>
It might ask you to open the link in Google Play. Don't do it. Choose to open the browser instead. You should see an Install button in the page. Click it, and the app will be pushed to your phone.
Let me know if it works.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: If installing it directly from the play store doesn't work for you you can try downloading the file from other websites that host it and then transferring it to your phone using a USB cable.
<http://www.xda-developers.com/android/apk-compendium-google-play-services-4-4-52-for-all-densities-and-the-rest-of-this-weeks-updates/>
Here's a link to the latest version.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/12 | 1,323 | 4,791 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Samsung S4 and because its charger is short I charge it with a Samsung Wonder charger. I am afraid that it can damage the battery or something. Will it?<issue_comment>username_1: Generally speaking the wrong charger to the wrong phone can cause damage.
However in your case, I do **not** believe that there is much to worry about. The article below is a gizmodo article that explains in pretty good detail.
<http://gizmodo.com/can-i-use-the-same-charger-for-multiple-devices-510829339>
Basically the whole using the "wrong charger" was an issue back before the micro-usb standard. Now that there is an international standard for the micro-usb, the voltage is limited to 5V.
>
>
> >
> > This used to be a much bigger issue on account of the wide variety of proprietary charging units and pin connectors that came with each device. Thankfully, the advent of USB changed all that and has provided an easy, standardized platform for charging devices. All USB cords carry the same 5V, regardless of if it's got a 30-pin head or a microUSB plug, whether it's first-party or third. That means DC chargers are now brand agnostic; if the volts, amps, and connectors are compatible, an Apple wall wart can charge an HTC just as easily as a Samsung. That if, though, is where people run into trouble.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
In terms of the current, there can be issues that arise in the amounts of amperes that are flowing through Take for instance the iPAD can charge off of 2.1 amp. If the charge to it is only say 1 amp, then it won't charge as quickly.
>
>
> >
> > Because they have consistent, standardized voltage, USB chargers need another means of putting more power (in terms of watts) into larger gadgets faster. To do so, the system will increase the current (measured in amps). Most USB cables designed exclusively for charging (as opposed to data transfer) limit the current to between 1 and 1.5 amps, although new iPad chargers can deliver 2.1amps, and a standard USB port on your laptop only puts out .5 amps. This is why a 1 amp charger isn't effective on a 2.1 amp iPad. The device consumes power at the same rate that it's added.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Gizmodo also discusses things such as chips in the battery that monitors the charge (why you can plug your phone in at night and go to bed).
>
>
> >
> > Smart chargers are those that utilize a small CMOS chip to monitor and manage the state of charge (SoC) and state of health (SoH) of similarly-equipped batteries. This is a de facto feature on most every modern secondary battery on the market, and it's ubiquitous among Li-ion systems. This feature allows the batteries to be left unattended when charging without the fear of having them overheat and explode, and while maintaining 100-percent capacity over long periods via a trickle charge.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
The author of the Gizmodo article, <NAME>, does not think that you should use a different phone charger and that you should use the specific device's charger with the specific device.
>
>
> >
> > Once you're sure that your device's needs line up with your charger's output, all that's left is ensuring your USB cords are equipped with the proper pin connector. The micro-USB to USB cord that came with your last phone works just as well with your new one and can plug into any suitable USB power brick, so why do you have multiples of it—each with its own brick?
> >
> >
> > Instead, just stash a single spare brick in your bag, bring only the cords you need, and stagger your device charging so that one is always plugged into a port on your computer.
> >
> >
> > Tl;dr? While you can use the same charger for multiple devices, you probably shouldn't. Not unless you want to ruin your gear, or wait a lifetime for it to recharge.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
So if you do not want to take the risk or what not, then you can use the correct charger (specific charger for specific phone).
I'm currently using a motorola backflip usb cable with the iPhone wall charger to charge my Samsung Galaxy S4 Active. I have not noticed any issues at all.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As long as the charger volts and amps are the same, you shouldn't have any issues. Take a look at the charger and it will have the stats you need to be aware of written right on it. Seems like in your case, you have both chargers handy (because you said the reason you wanted to use the other was the cable being too short).
I've personally been using chargers from phones for my tablets and vice versa for years without any issue. Obviously, it's best to use the charger that was designed for the device, but with everything being micro-USB these days, most of the time things are pretty safe.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/12 | 456 | 1,637 | <issue_start>username_0: Can someone please help me find the correct SU binary for this device? I am trying to install the SU binary for SuperSU, and I get an installation failed every time.
I have been looking for information on this specific problem, and from what I have read, I may have to download a new binary file and download it through flash recovery (shrug). I thought I would try that, but I cannot find anywhere with information specific to my device.
If you think the problem could be caused by something else, please let me know.
Thanks in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: You should be able to download the latest SuperSU from [Chainfire](http://download.chainfire.eu/370/). Push that to your Nexus 7 using adb push and install it from your custom recovery. I'm guessing you have that already?
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Check [this link](http://download.chainfire.eu/310/SuperSU/UPDATE-SuperSU-v1.04.zip). Install the SU Binaries from here than update to latest version.
Hope this helps.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: After having the 'no SuperSU Binary' error message I followed this guide :
[How to Root Nexus 7 2012 (Wi-Fi) and Nexus 10 on Stock Android 5.0 Lollipop via CF Auto Root](http://www.ibtimes.co.uk/how-root-nexus-7-2012-wi-fi-nexus-10-stock-android-5-0-lollipop-via-cf-auto-root-1474771)
that worked after several attempts. most importantly I had to be in the stock rom ( lollipop) then run the root-windows command. then while it says "waiting for device", I the switched tablet off, then vol down+power to go into bootloader. Then the magic happened.
hope this helps
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/12 | 367 | 1,383 | <issue_start>username_0: I just bought Nexus 7 (2013) and an OTG cable. I wanted to connect a flash drive to it. When I connected it, nothing happened.
I tried to find the folder with my flash drive contents in `/etc` - there was nothing about my flash drive. I searched in `/storage/emulated/0` - there were contents of my internal SDcard. I downloaded some applications from Google Play (e.g. Nexus Media Importer, OTG disc manager). It worked, but only for reading.
Is there a way to write to my flash drive? Please notice that I DON'T want to ROOT. (And sorry for my poor English)<issue_comment>username_1: Unfortunately, root is required to be able to write to flash drives using USB OTG on the Nexus 7. You can only read files without root.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You need to root your phone for using flash drive. After rooting, use Super SU binaries and stickmount app. Now you can easily use your flash drive. It will be mounted in your root directory
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Either root your nexus 7 and follow as per the other answers(i.e. use the stick mount application). To root go to this <http://m.blog.laptopmag.com/how-to-root-the-nexus-7-2013>. Don't do this if you don't know about rooting, you may brick or destroy the tablet for good.
Or the safest way buy Nexus Media Importer application from the Google play store.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/12 | 728 | 3,071 | <issue_start>username_0: Sometimes touch screen on my phone is swithced off and does not switch on again. The phone is working, you can ring it, even the touch keys have light.
Can you say, it there a method how to reboot it not touching the screen?
My phone is I-Mobile IQ 5.5 (bought in Thailand).
OS: Android 4.2.2.
I've searched the phone's manual, there is nothing about this topic.
I know there is a combination of keys from other manufacturers like Samsung, but as I said here there were no word about it in manual.
Maybe there is an app, which can help me reboot the phone by pressing several hard keys?
Now, I am just taking off the battery to reboot the phone.<issue_comment>username_1: Total noob with this stuff myself, I have been reading around,
Some applications given access like admin(?) , will have been allowed to install in critical locations to do the special tricks they do.
To fully remove these applications the special permission change made has to be disabled by the program first, then the program itself can be uninstalled.
If the program was allowed (the special permission) to make changes to critical section, then removed without the permission, it is possible for critical changes to be left. (source: fails done by commenters in google play store)
Anytime these high permissions are allowed, and these changes made, it should be turned back off first in the program, prior to uninstalling the program, or unexpected things could occur.
It is possible that a cool trick software has been installed, and forgotten, or not un-installed properly. Maybe an app that turns the screen on or off based on sencors or cameras , or phone or messages, like the proximity, or a shake , docking ? That the application has made changes, or even changes to more critical areas. Lock screen app, lock screen customiser, launcher , special trick home changes, there are hundreds of less documented tricks.
There are "safe Mode" ways of getting into the phones which keeps 3rd party items from operating, the <https://android.stackexchange.com/search?q=safe+mode> Android site has lots of information on it.
Also
The search of <https://android.stackexchange.com/search?q=boot+loop> Bootloop. We know you do not have a boot loop, but you still cant do much when this happens, so some of the boot loop information could be applied, which is this safe mode.
Different phones use slightly different methods for getting into the safemode, adding to the fun, finding an expert with the same phone might be a thing to do if you wanted to access safe mode.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Pressing and holding the phone's power button for a few seconds might do the trick.
It switches off my Android phones.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: My android LG phone had the same problem. I tried the power button, with no success. Then I took of the back cover and then removed the battery, then put it back in. Next, I held the power button down. This rebooted the phone back up. Hope this works for you, and good luck!
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/13 | 591 | 2,561 | <issue_start>username_0: On my Android 4.4 device, is there a way to change the auto-brightness values without rooting the device, e.g. by writing a tiny application?<issue_comment>username_1: Total noob with this stuff myself, I have been reading around,
Some applications given access like admin(?) , will have been allowed to install in critical locations to do the special tricks they do.
To fully remove these applications the special permission change made has to be disabled by the program first, then the program itself can be uninstalled.
If the program was allowed (the special permission) to make changes to critical section, then removed without the permission, it is possible for critical changes to be left. (source: fails done by commenters in google play store)
Anytime these high permissions are allowed, and these changes made, it should be turned back off first in the program, prior to uninstalling the program, or unexpected things could occur.
It is possible that a cool trick software has been installed, and forgotten, or not un-installed properly. Maybe an app that turns the screen on or off based on sencors or cameras , or phone or messages, like the proximity, or a shake , docking ? That the application has made changes, or even changes to more critical areas. Lock screen app, lock screen customiser, launcher , special trick home changes, there are hundreds of less documented tricks.
There are "safe Mode" ways of getting into the phones which keeps 3rd party items from operating, the <https://android.stackexchange.com/search?q=safe+mode> Android site has lots of information on it.
Also
The search of <https://android.stackexchange.com/search?q=boot+loop> Bootloop. We know you do not have a boot loop, but you still cant do much when this happens, so some of the boot loop information could be applied, which is this safe mode.
Different phones use slightly different methods for getting into the safemode, adding to the fun, finding an expert with the same phone might be a thing to do if you wanted to access safe mode.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Pressing and holding the phone's power button for a few seconds might do the trick.
It switches off my Android phones.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: My android LG phone had the same problem. I tried the power button, with no success. Then I took of the back cover and then removed the battery, then put it back in. Next, I held the power button down. This rebooted the phone back up. Hope this works for you, and good luck!
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/13 | 422 | 1,567 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm transitioning to *one* folder with many (txt-)files, adapting (letters instead of symbols, lowercase only, no spaces) [Merlin Manns txt-setup](http://www.43folders.com/2005/12/12/text-setup). With `cat`, `grep`, `head` and [other Unix-utilities](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category%3aUnix_text_processing_utilities), it's better than a folder structure.
I use this on Ubuntu, storing the files in my Dropbox-folder. I'd like to have the same functionality on Android, but have come up empty handed. They don't have to be the same tools, and if I can only cover *part* of the functionality, that's a great start.
How can I get this (or similar) functionality?<issue_comment>username_1: *Busybox* is a single utility that contains the functionality of many of the basic Unix tools. It's used on most embedded-Linux systems instead of having separate executables for each utility, which wastes space owing to code duplication.
There are several Busybox installers available on Google Play, and one on F-Droid. Custom ROMs often have Busybox built-in.
In addition, `grep` and `cat` (and a few more) are already built into Android. Android has its own Busybox-like called *Toolbox*, but it's a lot smaller (i.e. more limited) than the full Busybox.
You can access Toolbox commands (or Busybox commands once you've installed it) from a terminal emulator, in just the same way as any Unix system.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: Busybox is not a full replacement. For example, i'm missing --binary-files in Busybox grep.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/13 | 566 | 1,990 | <issue_start>username_0: I downloaded the PDroid source from the XNA forum and fount 3 files in it with the .patch extension. Could somebody please explain me what are files with this extension for? Ignore the fact that they are from the PDroid source since I think there are other projects using them. As I can see these files can be opened in text editor and there are some script lines in them but I don't know what they are for?<issue_comment>username_1: Patch files are not specifically to do with Android. They just represent a difference between two text files (or two folders of text files). They can be produced by the `diff` tool, or by a version control system, and the same change can be applied to files by the `patch` tool, or by a version control system.
Patch files are often used by programmers to communicate a change that should be applied to source code.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: From the [XDA thread for PDroid](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1357056) these are if you are building PDroid from source.
EDIT: The specifics of what a .patch file is are in Dan's post.
If you are building the source you need to take the following steps:
Download: PDroid 2.3.4 source (v1.27) (yes it is based on 2.3.4 but also works with 2.3.3 and 2.3.5 flawlessly)
Get the 2.3.4 source from AOSP (branch: android-2.3.4\_r1)
Extract the patches from the above archive to the 2.3.4 tree root
Run:
Code:
```
patch -p1 -i build.patch
patch -p1 -i frameworks.patch
patch -p1 -i libcore.patch
```
Building from source:
Make a clean build
Apply the patches (see above)
Run:
Code:
```
source build/envsetup.sh
make update-api
mmm frameworks/base
mmm frameworks/base/services/java
mmm libcore
```
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Using `git am`:
go to the repository directory and execute the command:
```
git am
```
It will find the correct file in the repository directory and execute the changes.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/13 | 153 | 566 | <issue_start>username_0: How can I change which user profile is the "owner" profile? Possible? Running 4.4.2.<issue_comment>username_1: I read from [a forum](http://androidforums.com/nexus-7-2012/653737-change-owner-user-account.html) that for security reasons, the only way to change the owner is to do a Factory Reset.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I just kept removing other Google accounts (all in this case) until the one I wanted was listed as owner. Not sure how the owner was changed from the initial Google account. It should selectable.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/13 | 403 | 1,487 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm trying to set up remote debugging on my brand new LG G2 phone.
Seen here: <http://www.html5rocks.com/en/tutorials/developertools/mobile/>
So far, I've:
1. Enabled developer options
2. Enabled "USB debugging" on the Developer options screen
3. On the "PC Connections" screen - I've set "USB connection method" to "PC Software"
So - everything looks good at this point.
However, as soon as I connect the device to my PC, the "USB debugging" setting on the "Developer options" screen turns gray (disabled). If I go to DevTools on Chrome on my PC (chrome://inspect/#devices) and check "Discover USB devices", my phone is not listed.
What else do I need to do?<issue_comment>username_1: The PC Software setting is just for installing and using the LG PC software. Once your drivers are installed, enable USB Debugging, plug it in, change it from "charge only" to "MTP" and USB Debugging should work.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I had the same problem with my G2 D802 only mine did work before when still running android 4.2.
It was a driver issue and fixed it by the folowing steps:
* download the Android SDK at : <http://developer.android.com/sdk/index.html>
* unzip the package and run the file : SDK Manager.exe
* Scroll down to extra's and check google USB driver and install packages
<http://developer.android.com/sdk/win-usb.html#top> for a little more info
My usb setting is set at (MTP)
That did it for me.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/02/13 | 336 | 1,310 | <issue_start>username_0: Ok. So, lucky me, I just got a galaxy s4. Unfortunately it's the AT&T version, already updated to MK2.
It is rooted, and I've gone through and removed all the bloatware apps through Titanium backup.
My question is, now that I've got this basic stock system, how can I make a Odin flashable tar out of it? I mean a complete one... bootloader, system, phone, etc...<issue_comment>username_1: I don't know if you can get an Odin-flashable one, but you can do it with ClockWorkMod Recovery and then restore it with it.
You will have to install CWM recovery first if you don't have it already and then just make a backup which can be downloaded on the PC.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Unfortunately since you got it with mk2 you can't just install cwm or twrp. You can make a stock nandroid recovery backup. If you want to be able to flash roms in the future though, your going to need to look into the thread on XDA for your phone named Safestrap. I know they were working on getting it working on 4.3 but I'm not certain. It was originally made for anyone who took the mf3 firmware ota update which locked down the firmware and patched the loki exploit. I'm still using the old mdl bootloader so I haven't checked the status of Safestrap recently.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2014/02/13 | 593 | 2,330 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a rooted [nexus-5](/questions/tagged/nexus-5 "show questions tagged 'nexus-5'") but the only problem is I don't have the SuperSu application on my device. I have tried to re-flash the zip but that doesn't do anything. Its in my application list in the settings but It's not in the app drawer. It was there before but somehow it just disappeared. Please help. Thanks.<issue_comment>username_1: If you see it in applications but not in the app drawer just reinstall it from the playstore. Also make sure your launcher isn't hiding the app icon, which is a possibility depending on what launcher you use. Also in the supersu app under customizations launch icon, there is a setting to hide the icon. If you want to make sure the binaries are still there you can always check easily with an app called Root Verifier.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: **`eu.chanfire.supersu.mainactivity-xxxxx`**
============================================
(**xxxxx** would be the SuperSU icon you picked).
*If that activity is disabled/restricted it will remove the icon from the app drawer.*
---
Since rooted you should use the app [My Android Tools](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=cn.wq.myandroidtools&hl=en) to check.
* From menu select **`Activity`**
* Select the **`System tab`**
* Scroll down to **`SuperSu`** app
* Select it and look for disabled main activity
* Enable the activity
***It is safe to enable this activity for just this instance. Don't go through the list of apps and start enabling and/or disabling things without understanding what they do. You can brick your device. You do so on your own. And always make a backup before changing anything***
As I stated above, if the **`MainActivity-xxxxx`** is disabled it will remove the icon from your app drawer. This is the cause of the disappearing icon.
---
I have checked this myself on each of my devices. Disabling and enabling activity for SuperSU, then checking app drawer for the icon each time.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Try opening dialer then type `*#*#1234#*#*`
If you cannot see the asterisks, please read below:
(Asterisk, hashtag, asterisk, hashtag, one, two, three, four, hastag, asterisk, hashtag, asterisk)
It should open SuperSU
Then Change SuperSU icon on the SuperSU settings
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/13 | 1,802 | 6,768 | <issue_start>username_0: My Nexus 4 is not charging when plugged into wall but it charges when connected to PC USB. When plugged into wall nothing happens, the battery icon shows nothing.
This problem appears and disappears randomly. Few weeks ago I had this problem, then it disappeared and now it reappeared again.
I tried to enable and disable MTP and PTP but didn't solve it.
I tried to use the wall charger on other devices and it wors (sometimes work also on this device)
I tried to plug it in different places and it doesn't work.
I tried to move the cable to check if contacts are good and nothing happens.
I tried different USB cables and the behavior is the same.
What can I do?
**EDIT:** The issue is *temporarily* solved. Here's what happened:
* The device was charging only from PC
* I plugged it to PC and the charge was 11%
* I came back after less than 10 minutes: the device was off and pretty hot
* I turned it on and the charge was 1%. The icon said "charging" but it seemed to charge very slowly
* I turned it off.
* I unplugged it.
* I replugged it to PC: it was charging.
* I unplugged it and I plugged it to wall charger. It was charging.
* Initially the battery monitor reported AC, however after some minutes believed that the phone was connected to USB mode.
* The phone charged very slowly.
**OTHER INFOS**:
Today I was run out of battery and I plugged the cable.
* The battery was 18% but in few minutes went down to 4% (I was gaming with a poker game but it went down too fast as it was short circuited)
* The device has shut down automatically
* The device was warm
* After rebooting it I saw the battery charging but a red exclamation mark was blinking
* The red led (which turn on when it's charging) was noisy.
* The system was extremely slow also when I tried to check the battery manager.
* It was not charging. Sometimes a "flash" was on the battery sign but the manager reported "not charging". Another battery manager reported 38mA and then 0 (as if battery was not working).
* I cooled it down with a fan and it seem to start charging but very slowly (from 1% to 4% in 15 minutes)
* I shut it down and after 10 minutes I turned on again and it was 12%. Then it seems to charge properly (from 12% to 14% in a couple of minutes and current was 34mA), but after some seconds current went down to 9mA and then to 0.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SqsyJ.png)
Click on picture for larger version
Soon after this screenshot it seemed to start charging better, current was more than 200mA, but as soon as I took a screenshot it went down to few mA and then 0 again.
Another update:
Today I plugged the cable when battery was 29%. During the day I checked current usage, it was fine with an average of 200mA. When I plugged the cable (either via USB or from charger) the current usage went up to 1A, again with red exclamation mark, warming etc. I don't know what I should do now.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oDRPM.png)
Click on picture for larger version
NOTE: it's not a short circuit in the Nexus pins because if I plug the cable in it but I don't plug the other end, nothing happens.
**UPDATE**: I tried to plug the phone to other USB ports and it works *with higher probability*. Sometimes the problem appears also in the other USB ports, but less frequently. However the charging current is only 200mA, which doesn't seem correct, in my opinion. Sometimes the phone appears to be in discharge while plugged via USB. I download a CPU monitor to check if the dicharge was due to high CPU load and I verified that when I plug USB the CPU load increases near 100%, see image:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/O7yTb.png)
Click on picture for larger version
From 19:26.03 to 19:28.49 the phone was plugged to the first USB port, then I plugged it to another port (CPU went down to zero) and the I plugged it again into the first port.
The process which consumes high CPU is **system\_server**.<issue_comment>username_1: There are a few things that could be happening here:
1. It could be that the charger is not powerful enough (either something happened to it or it never was). This means that although charge is going into your phone the phone is using it too fast to add any battery life. To see if this is the case try to charge your phone when it is off or in airplane mode.
2. A software issue could be causing the charging circuit to disengage due to excess charge (this is pretty much a guess).
3. The battery level on the phone (or charging symbol) may not be accurate and therefore not give an accurate representation of charging. To test this see if the phone gains actual usable charge when plugged in (leave it overnight starting at close to 0% and if it makes the night your all good).
Hope this helps.
[EDIT]
Looking at your CPU monitor I have a few more suggestions that might help (more in diagnosing than anything).
Attempt to connect your phone via ADB and access your phone via adb shell (there should be some tutorials around the web which I may post later).
Then use the "top" command to view all running processes.
Identify the offending process (it should have a high CPU load and be named system\_server)
Get the PID of the process and run the command: "kill PID" with PID being the PID of the process.
See if this fixes the issue.
Let me know what happens or if you run into any issues (I really want to figure this out now).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: i edit my post to tell you no it's not english , i agree i was not way clear , but remember im tryin to help here so be polite
well you know the apple charger you need like this one and you use it with a usb cable that you use to to coonect your phone to a pc and it ll work
the issue is the hole in your phone get bigger than the charger thats why it works only with a usb cable
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: It sounds similar to a problem I had with a Nexus 7 (2012). I could get it charging by connecting it up to charge then rapidly plugging in and unplugging the USB cable from the power brick (not the phone). This usually allowed it to charge although slower than it should. I called Google and they said it needed replacing. In the EU we have directive 1999/44/EC that allows phone replacements for 2 years. A factory reset did not solve the problem. You could try different leads and open the contacts on the phone. An Apple power brick worked best for me.
Unfortunately it appears to be a hardware fault. Good luck.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I tried to do a factory reset and it worked.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/02/14 | 772 | 3,057 | <issue_start>username_0: This is a pretty unusual problem, and I've encountered the question in various forums but never the answer. I've had this problem on and off since the Galaxy SII. What happens is I'll take the phone off the charger in the morning, and it will be extremely hot in my pocket all day, then it will die about 10 hours later. This is an intermittent problem. I thought it was loosely associated with the alarm clock, but I got a new phone yesterday because the SIII died a few months ago, and I have not had this phone for more than 24 hours and already it has the same problem.
I haven't installed anything on it, and I've barely used any data. I have a 200 mb plan, so I can't even use data that often. The only other weird thing that's persisted is that the red arrow on the wifi and on mobile data seems to always be lit when I turn on the phone.
Has anyone seen this problem or know how to fix it?<issue_comment>username_1: On these phones, the behaviour you describe can be caused by a corrupted SD card filesystem. The media scanner runs all the time, trying to read the SD card.
This problem immediately suggested itself as a possibility as it would be natural to move the same SD card to your new phone, transferring the problem there. That would explain why it started right away.
You can check if this is what's happening by going into the device **Settings**, then **Battery** (on the **More** tab). If this is the problem, **Media scanner** will be at the top of the list.
Once you've confirmed the problem, take out the SD card from your phone, put it into an SD card reader in a desktop computer, and use the computer's filesystem check (i.e. `fsck` on GNU/Linux, ScanDisk on Windows) to repair any problems.
Even if you checked the battery stats and it wasn't the media scanner, that might give you a hint of what has been causing the problem.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Since this is getting a lot of views, apparently, I'll answer my own question about how it was fixed. The other answer is a distinct possibility, and it seems that quite a few problems cause this behaviour.
I wound up contacting Samsung, and the rep promised resetting the cache would fix it, and it seems to have done that, so now I have a heat free phone that I charge every 1-3 days.
To reset the cache:
1. Turn off phone
2. Remove the battery and reinsert.
3. Hold down the Home and Volume Up keys
4. Press and hold the Power button while still holding the other keys.
5. As soon as you see the Samsung logo, release all keys/buttons.
6. Press on the Volume Down to scroll down to Wipe Cache Partition.
7. Press the Power button to select it.
8. Press the Volume down button to highlight "Yes" and press the Power Button to select it.
9. Wait for a few minutes for the phone to clear the data.
10. Then press the Power button to select reboot system now.
11. Wait for your phone to reboot.
(From <http://www.androidpit.com/forum/608584/how-to-clear-the-system-cache-for-the-samsung-galaxy-s4>)
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2014/02/14 | 449 | 1,798 | <issue_start>username_0: My S3 has been displaying the wrong time lately; maybe 3 or 4 times in the last week. It's not off by exactly an hour, so I know it's not a timezone or daylight-saving-time issue. It's usually off by 15 to 25 minutes; just enough to make me late to work.
It's not only a 3rd-party app or widget issue; the actual phone time is wrong (in the upper, right-hand corner near the signal indicator).
My wife has an older Samsung Galaxy Nexus, and this never happens on her phone. We live together (obviously), so our phones are in the same location, and we use the same provider; so I don't think it's a network/signal/tower issue.
Any ideas what would cause this. I've searched around, and all I can find are forums w/ 6 pages of "Me too" responses. A couple definitive answers/suggestions would be welcome.
UPDATE - I've disabled the automatic date/time settings, but the problem still comes back. I've worked on desktops and laptops for years, and they all use a CMOS battery to keep track of time... even when a computer is off. Do phones have anything similar?<issue_comment>username_1: Does this happen at a particular location? Do you have the setting as "Automatic date and time", or "Network provided time"? If you do, I assume the cellular region has incorrectly set time and is providing it wrong. The phone adjusts when you move to a well-maintained region.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: To further username_1's response, I would disable the automatic network time and just set it manually. See if that works. It worked for my coworker who was having the same issue. It isn't a fix for the underlying issue, but it did eliminate the problem, or so it would seem. It hasn't happened again in the week since he disabled the network time setting.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/14 | 253 | 994 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently purchased an Android game bundle from <https://ikoid.com/>.
The purchase was successful (at least they took my money), and I was told I'd receive a link to log in with and collect my purchase. No such email arrived, and I've had no response from <EMAIL>.
Has anyone had experience of successful purchases from this site, or similar failures?
Do you know if the site is genuine or a scam?
Update: new purchase successful; the site seems legitimate.<issue_comment>username_1: I purchased the first bundle and had no problem. The link took a few hours to come by email, but that's all.
EDIT: just purchased this one, got my games added to my account instantaneously (but yes, I already had an account).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: We did respond to every e-mail, so it is likely that our e-mails went to your spam folder.
If you still have problems with any purchase please contact us at service@username_2.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2014/02/15 | 323 | 1,290 | <issue_start>username_0: After the new update of 4.2.2 on Feb 6,2014 my phone performs very very slow.. cant even run a single application.. cant even pick up the call as the screen remains blank...
Smart phone has become absolute dumb and for no use...<issue_comment>username_1: I was facing the same issue after the 4.2.2 Feb 6, 2014 update. Did a factory reset and I'm able to run applications now. The dialing and answering the call problem is resolved, but on the whole, the mobile still lags.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I was able to fix up the issue by clearing Gallery data. Go to Settings --> More --> Application Manager --> All Applications --> Gallery --> ... Here you will see data reported in hunderds of MBs. Press Clear data button and once that is complete, you phone should be back to normal.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Just go to settings --> more --> storage --> miscellaneous --> delete all data by check all file.
Before you delete all miscellaneous data make sure you had move the important file to external memory or PC.
Hope it helped :)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Gallery data may not be the main matter.
The Cache and RAM have to be cleared. Just see that RAM is at least 40% free. Uninstall / clear unwanted apps.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/02/15 | 818 | 3,236 | <issue_start>username_0: I have Samsung S4 Mini phone which I bought about 10 months ago. I used to transfer my files from phone to my PC and vice versa without any trouble using the USB cable. Recently, I enabled the Developer Settings (by tapping the build number 7 times), turned on USB debugging mode. I could transfer files even after this.
After a few days, my PC stopped recognizing the USB. I don't see the the USB button in the notification panel. I get a notification - "*The last USB device you connected to this computer malfunctioned, and Windows does not recognize it*".
In the device manager, I find Other Devices under which I see "*Unknown Device*". If I disconnect my phone, I don't see this entry.
I had searched quite a lot on Google for the same, but couldn't come up with a resolution. In fact, I did factory reset as my last attempt on my own and still couldn't find any result. (Lost all my apps for no reason).
**Other Details:**
1. I tried connecting my friend's phone onto my PC with the same cable, his device was recognized.
2. And yes, the cable was provided by Samsung itself, which used to work in the past and now it is not working.
Some one, please help me in connecting my phone to laptop using USB.<issue_comment>username_1: Try to clean your USB port. If it is dirty, connection to the PC may fail. I have the same problem, that my S4 Mini is not recognized by the Windows nor Linux. I cleaned the port and at least once I had a connection to heimdall and could run the heimdall print-pit command successfully.
Maybe your USB port is broken then you need to replace it. I haven't done that.
**Videos:**
* Cleaning: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6p0Eg-yq3A>
* Dissemble Guide: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sOKKoxu3L4>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: This is definitely being caused by the drivers. You have to uninstall everything related to your phone from your computer. The drivers, and anything else it installed. Remove all of that, then re-download the drivers for your phone off of google. Install these drivers, then plug the phone in. It should download anything missing now and hopefully recognize the device.
You could even try reinstalling the USB device's drivers itself.
On my phone, I can specify whether to host the android device as media storage, image, or charge-only. Try switching between these (if your device allows) and see if that makes a difference.
**EDIT**: Using DriveDroid, creating an image and hosting that image as a USB flash device would be an appropriate workaround.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: The issue is due to the driver . Install Mobogenie on your system as well as on your mobile . Then connect your mobile n let mobogenie download the drivers . That's it
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tXeqSm.jpg)
Try toggling one of these in developer settings
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: This issue may be caused by SD card corruption, so please try this solution:
Open cmd as administrator and run `chkdsk \f F:/`, while `F` is the path of your SD card , and you need to try it using an SD card ready.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/15 | 433 | 1,732 | <issue_start>username_0: The soft keys of my *HTC One X* aren't working for 4hours now. I've restarted it many times but still the problem persists. The screen is normal, just the back, recent app and home key aren't.
Could it be the screen? What can I do to get it back to normal?<issue_comment>username_1: I believe this is a pure software issue. If you have custom recovery installed, try to wipe cache/davik-cache. If not, try reseting the phone to default settings.
(Are you on a custom ROM? If so, have you tried asking in the developer's support forum? What software are you using for the soft buttons? Have you tried another ROM?)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Try Button Savior ([non-root version](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.smart.swkey.nonroot), [root required version](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.smart.swkey)).
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Things you need to know, The System UI is responsible for: Lockscreen, Navigation Bar, Status Bar. If the Lock and Status are working; for example. Showing icon of a received notification then that's a minor issue that you can fix by cache-clearing and force stopping the app and rebooting the phone. If that fails, go to custom recovery if you have one, and wipe cache and dalvik, then reboot. If that doesn't work either and you're pretty sure you never touched the system. I'm sorry you gotta backup data partition, reset the phone by clearing all the data partition from recovery, boot the phone if it works, then back to custom recovery and restore data back. This is just refreshing the app. Try it out and tell me, if it fails, reset and don't restore data. Because you're probably out of options
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/15 | 770 | 2,987 | <issue_start>username_0: I was trying to setup a custom host name for my device(a rooted xperia z) following [this guide](http://nileshgr.com/2012/10/13/how-to-change-wifi-host-name-of-your-android-device) but without paying too much attention, especially to the comments.
I'm guessing I had a typo in the edited build.prop file because after I rebooted the phone was stuck in a boot loop: I would see the sony logo but instead of the usual xperia logo and colourful boot animation the phone would restart.
I can turn off the phone and I think I've managed to get it in a different state by pressing the volume up key multiple times after powering up because I could see a blue led always on. Before that in between boots I would see a red led blink twice.
Unfortunately the phone reboots to fast to become visible to adb. What are my options on restoring/editing the build.prop file ? Can I somehow see the phone's filesystem on a computer without booting the phone into android ?
Also I don't mind loosing all the data as long as I can use the phone again.
Thanks<issue_comment>username_1: After a lot of reading and trying various things I've managed to get control over my phone again.
[This guide](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2459050&page=2) sounds good, but it didn't work for me as I've encountered an error because of my specific device. This might work with others though.
What worked was [this guide](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2240614)(which has problems rendering images sometimes).
I've tried first to unlock the bootloader(BLU button in Flashtool) and used the [these instructions](http://unlockbootloader.sonymobile.com/instructions) to obtain the unlock code based on the IMEI.
After that I've downloaded a stock FTF image (from [goo.im](http://goo.im/devs/jerdog/sony/xperia-Z)), placed in the firmware folder of Flashtool. Then I could flash the FTF to the phone. Also, because I was using Windows 8, had to reboot into trouble shoot more to change an option to allow non signed drivers.
Hope this helps others with similar issues.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Wow. I was just going to say fastboot flash recovery openrecovery-yourversionTWRP.img from the terminal if you can figure out the device's specific button press sequence to boot into stock recovery or fastboot mode. From TWRP you can change file permissions if needed, and flash SuperSU, BusyBox, and if needed also CF-Autoroot if your phone is compatible. All this info is easily found on YouTube a lot of the time as well if you'd like a video to walk you through it.
You might also just try to flash a boot.img from a stock version before anything in case it's just the kernel. FYI, if you can get a custom recovery onto your phone like TWRP, you can back up EVERYTHING once its working again for safe keeping in case something like this happens in the future. Just run a once over NANDROID backup and you're set.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/16 | 1,675 | 7,389 | <issue_start>username_0: I am used to install and remove various operating systems in my PCs, even having several at a time.
Usually, to install a new OS means:
1. Burn the ISO to a CD/DVD/USB.
2. Insert it.
3. Boot. (Maybe you have to tweak a bit the BIOS first).
The only difference between PCs is its CPU architecture: x86, x86\_64, arm, etc. Depending on that, you have to download one ISO or another. But I never have to worry about which graphic card, mouse, keyboard, screen, network card, etc. it has. The install wizard automatically detects that and installs the corresponding drivers. Sometimes, if they are not bundled, the installer also downloads them. Anyway, the key point here is that **the ISO is always the same**.
Now, many mobile OS come out: Ubuntu, Tizen, Firefox OS, the omnipresent Android, and why not any Linux ARM distro out there!. Sadly I have a random chinese mobile, that surely will never get official support in any platform, and I will never be able to test them.
But... Are not today's phones just tiny ARM PCs? Why is installation that different? Why do I always need to have a precompiled monolithic ROM specific for my phone model? Why not just a single "ISO" per OS for any phone that detects and installs automatically the needed drivers, just like always has been in the PC market?
Note: I understand the problem with privative drivers, but I remember Debian asking me for those when there were no *libre* alternatives at installation, and I could install them then or later. I suppose that workaround could be used in those cases too. Correct me if I'm wrong.<issue_comment>username_1: In short, it's because of the different ways that Android and MS Windows are distributed. MS Windows is a retail product, sold directly to PC owners. Therefore, Microsoft is responsible for making it run on PCs. PCs are standardized, and (nowadays) have a hardware-discovery mechanism, so Microsoft can design the Windows installer so that it can run on any PC-compatible machine. It's in their interest to make drivers for old Windows versions compatible with newer versions, so that they can keep selling new Windows versions to users.
There's also a technical dimension to this. Phones aren't just "tiny ARM PCs" as you suggest. The distinguishing thing about a PC is that it satisfies the *PC specification*, originated by IBM but now specified by an industry consortium. There are several more standards for how components of a PC interact, and they're what allows automatic driver configuration such as you find on a desktop PC. Graphics cards offer a VESA interface, which allows graphics to be displayed before a GPU driver has been configured.
All PC hardware nowadays offers Plug N Play, which allows the OS to discover hardware and configure the memory map at boot. Before Plug N Play, you had to change physical jumpers on each PCI card, and then tell the software what memory range, IRQ, etc. you'd set on the jumpers. And in the days before DirectX and its ilk, you had to do that separately for every game that wanted to use that hardware. Plug N Play came about mostly so that sound card (and other discrete component) vendors could make easier-to-install hardware.
In contrast, Android isn't a product that's sold to users: it's "sold" to device manufacturers. Phones (also tablets, STBs, media players, etc.) don't have anything like the PC specification, so it's not possible for Google to make an "Android installer" that can run on any device. Even displaying the battery animation when the phone is off requires it to load the Linux kernel with a framebuffer driver and a battery driver. It's the device manufacturer's responsibility to modify the Android source code so that it can run on their device, and the resulting Android firmware image belongs to the manufacturer: they don't (have to) give those changes to Google or anyone else.
The phone world doesn't have these kinds of standards, because there's no demand for it. There's no one trying to sell phone components that you put together yourself. No one in the phone industry is interested in making an OS that you can install on any phone - only the likes of Ubuntu and Mozilla, who are outsiders with no contribution to hardware standards.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The first problem is space. Most phone until recently have too little storage space to contain the entire generic kernel and android framework. A compounding issue is that phone hardware is generally more variant and less standardized than PC hardware, which can be unavoidable due to the limited space.
The other problem is that there no single standard for flashing method among stock boot loaders. With PC, you have the standard booting from CD and booting from USB drive method; in the standard external drive booting method the PC is the USB Host, but Android generally acts as USB Client. This is also reflected in the choice of cables, the Android side of the USB cable is usually a USB micro and most external drives also use USB mini, this means the physical connection requires you to get a USB micro to USB micro cable, which is relatively uncommon.
Finally, the last problem is political. Manufacturers and carriers have no incentives to change the status quo, only a very small minority of users are going to flash their device, which will usually void warranty. They have no incentive to encourage people to install a boot loader that makes it easy to void warranty and which often cause support nightmare.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: Besides the points mentioned in [username_2's answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/63636/440), there is one big issue people tend to underestimate: **Drivers**.
Remember Windows 95? Most people remember it as a bad and unstable OS. Why was it unstable? Because the drivers came in the beginning not from Microsoft but from the hardware manufacturers and some (most?) of them where of poor quality, crashing the whole system. Of course the user in front of the PC blamed the OS, because that was what appeared to be crashing, and not the driver.
Writing hardware drivers is not an easy task: You have to know the OS API, you have to know the hardware, you have to know the computer architecture and if you just make little mistake the most OS (these without good isolation) will crash.
Let's have a look at the other open source operating systems, most of them comes with a superior architecture and use more hardware features then Linux. Then why doesn't everybody use them? I'd say it's because they lack **drivers**. Why should I choose a OS that doesn't support my WiFi hardware?
Now, let's have a look at the target platform about you are wondering why there is no install medium available. Android devices are highly specialized and use hardware that
1. is not available to the masses (e.g. you can't usually but the sound chip used in a typical Android device)
2. need driver that are proprietary (i.e. only the hardware manufacturer has access to the source of the driver)
3. is manifold
that makes is hard to compose an install medium that works for every, or even most, devices.
The usually approach to install GNU/Linux on an Android device is to use the available environment (Bootloader, Kernel (incl. Drivers), libc). This avoids all the issues mentioned in the answers.
Upvotes: 3 |
2014/02/16 | 332 | 1,365 | <issue_start>username_0: So I want to root my Android and I was wondering: Do we have to pay for installing a custom rom or is it free?<issue_comment>username_1: In general, Custom ROMs are FREE. To date, I am not aware of any custom ROM that is paid (at least for the custom ROMs I have used for my Samsung Galaxy S2, S4 and Nexus 7). However, you can donate to the developers if you wish.
Rooting and installing the custom ROM yourself is free, assuming you accept all the risks, which includes bricking (or destroying) your phone.
If you are not confident enough to perform the rooting and installation of a custom ROM, you can ask an experienced person to do it for you. Of course, they may or may not request for payment.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: No custom ROM should be paid ever. Its like one of the condition of using the AOSP source code (as its open source). However a certain feature (that has been programmed by a developer completely) may be paid or may have ads. Basically my point is nobody can ask you to pay for using a custom ROM made by them. However, if you do not want the risk of flashing custom roms/rooting yourself there are people who do it for a fee. This fee is for the service they give you. You can easily flash custom ROMs at home with no difficulty with all the helps available on forums.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/16 | 192 | 668 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to export the settings of the [K9 mail](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.fsck.k9) app. This app exports a settings file to /storage/emulated/0/com.fsck.k9/settings-4.k9s. But if I connect my Nexus 4 to my PC I cannot see such a file or the directories.<issue_comment>username_1: The solution was to reboot the phone. The `com.fsck.k9` directory is now visible on the top level of the phones file system.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: I was having a similar issue, I could find the location, but no videos would populate. I have to change the usb connection mode from Camera to Media ( I know, duh ).
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/02/17 | 1,739 | 7,165 | <issue_start>username_0: One of my albums has a completely unrelated album art associated with it. I cannot find the album details and hope to get the album art that way because it's an independent album. The album art I'm trying to use is actually a scan of the album itself. I have tried:
* Renaming the album and album folder, deleting the previous folder from my phone, and ending my music player's process.
* Deleting the album's folder from the phone, and moving the folder somewhere else.
* Changed the album art to different images that are slightly different images with Windows Media Player, then uploading AlbumArt.jpg, Folder.jpg, etc. into the album's directory.
I've probably tried a few more, but I can't remember at the moment. It's very annoying having to look at this low-quality, unrelated album art whenever I start playing my music.<issue_comment>username_1: This might not work but worth a try.
Connect your S3 to a PC (or use a file explorer). In those Albums, unhide System Files ... and delete the album art.jpg ... or all the hidden image files. SHOULD work.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Try this free app called "[pimp my music](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=au.com.pickup.pmm&hl=en)". It does everything you want to do with album art.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: This is the solution I came up with.
First, it seems that album art is cached, so after deleting the offending album, closing the music player, and restarting the phone, it might still persist. In this case, leave it for a day and try again.
Second, go to `Folder Options / View / Advanced Settings / Show hidden files and folders`. and uncheck `Hide protected operating system files (recommended)`. Delete `Folder.jpg`, `AlbumArt.jpg`, and `AlbumArtSmall.jpg` in the offending album's folder (and any other jpgs that represent the old album art. Usually they have UUIDs for names).
Third, make sure there is an `AlbumArt.jpg` representing the correct album art in the album's folder. Ideally, `AlbumArt.jpg` should be a perfect square.
Fourth, try copying the album's folder back to the phone. If everything in the first step was tried and the album art has not changed, I would suggest changing the album's name. Technically, you're adding a new album at this point, but at least it will have the right album art.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Force stop your Music playing app. Connect your device to a PC. Use the search function to search your phone (phone storage or SD card where you store your music) for albumart.jpg. I use Linux so the results appear as icons, in Windows right click - search . You can delete the offending icons, then use whatever app you use to try find new album art. You can be more specific by searching: \albumthumbs , \android\data\com.android.providers.media\albumthumbs and of course each individual album folder.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: I have faced this problem for a very long time, and have finally decided to try to fix it, finally came up with the solution how to.
Before I continue, I use iTunes on my computer to manage all my songs, copy them out in .mp3 format and then drag them into my Samsung phone. (Note 3) The album artwork I have attached to the albums in iTunes is not showing up, and instead shows another unrelated album which applies to the whole album.
The fix: Download an application called MP3dit which is freely available in the Play Store. This is because Samsung automatically attaches the album artwork to the first song of the album that has an album artwork and sets it as default to ALL the songs in that album.
What I have done is:
1. To remove all the songs in the specific album
2. Insert one of the songs in that album
3. Ensure the song is in the Music Player by playing it
4. Go over to the MP3dit app and open the song
5. Scroll down to 'Advanced' and open the sub menu
6. Select the option 'Delete all MP3 Tags'
Your album now should turn out with the artwork that you have inserted with iTunes (or other music players) now. You can go ahead and add in the rest of the songs in that album.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: What worked for me, as username_4 suggested, was to go into the /Android/data/com.android.providers.media/albumthumbs folder on the phone and delete all of the files it contains. They are extension-less files, so it is impossible to tell which one is the offending one, so I just deleted them all. The next time I opened the default Samsung music player, all of the album thumbnail images at first appeared empty, then after two or three seconds, the music player re-generated all of them, and my new album art appeared on the offending album.
(This was after I "showed hidden files and folders" via the control panel in Windows and deleted the AlbumArt.jpg and Folder.jpg files that were there)
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_7: Very easy to solve this. Go to the Samsung explorer "My Files" find the MP3 with the wrong artwork. Long press, select rename, rename the file (I just added "1" at the end).
Your MP3 file will now play without the unwanted picture.
You can then remove the "1" after the file name.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Though my other answer might still work, it spams the Music directory with album art which is then picked up by the Gallery and obfuscates actual user content.
Instead of my previous answer, I would suggest just using [Mp3tag](http://www.mp3tag.de/en/) and embedding album art in each MP3 manually. Using either the AlbumArt.jpg or the Folder.jpg created by Windows is not as good because they are both usually 200x200, which will be pixelated when viewed in the Music Player on the phone.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_8: In correct album art
====================
If you are seeing the cover of another album with a similar or the same name check that you have the album artist tag filled appropriately for each album, some players can't handle such files correctly without this tag.
As already mentioned check for embedded album art and be consistent use either embedded album art or AlbumArt.jpg.
Album art does not show up
==========================
My experience is that 1000x1000 pixel with up to 500 KB for AlbumArt.jpg work fine with Google Play Music and most players. Higher resolutions and bigger file sizes may only work as embedded album art, which can be a huge waste of space. Further I had a few files with [chroma subsampling](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chroma_subsampling) 4:2:0 which couldn't be read, so I suggest to use subsampling 4:4:4 if possible, this also provides the best quality.
Troubleshooting
===============
Previously I would only close the player and delete the files of com.android.providers.media or clear its cache. These options seem to be gone in Android 6.0 or have no effect. In case of Google Play Music swiping the card of the app from the Android app history was enough to get the cover displayed correctly. (I forgot about this and was confused about the behavior while changing the image file and the folder name and trying to make sense of what I saw.)
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/17 | 547 | 2,297 | <issue_start>username_0: I have bought Nexus 4 and i have imported phone contacts from my older Phone. I don't have email id for many of the contacts,i have just their phone numbers alone. Now i want to sync them with their email. Is there any way to do this. And is there any way to sync them with their fb account. (To be clear my question is if i can sync them to their gmail or fb by just using their Number). Actually i have 'Add Connection' option in 'People' tab and i'm able to get the contacts from Google Plus correctly. But when i add them to circles they are saved as separate contact and my old contact with phone number alone as separate contact.<issue_comment>username_1: You could first add a facebook account from
```
Settings->Account->Add new account->Facebook
```
Then the FB contacts will get synced with their numbers if users have added it on facebook. After that try syncing with the Google account.
If this does not work, you could always use the 'link contacts' option provided in almost all contact application. it will detect similar accounts and link them to form a single contact file.
Hope this helps!
[Import Facebook contects to Goole+](http://www.wikihow.com/Import-Your-Facebook-Friends-to-Google%2B).
Upvotes: -1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The best way is to create or import your contacts under Google account. You can add both Email or Facebook info under each contacts. You can also log in to Facebook app and sync Facebook contacts. Same name will be linked automatically and you may need link manually for the remaining contacts.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Only those contacts will sync with Gmail that are fed or created as Google accounts. Some phones do not give this choice while the contact is being created and so, it is just a phone contact.
To sync these contacts with Gmail, you have to edit such contacts. Use the following steps:
* Go to contacts.
* Click edit contact.
* On top of the contact above the name will appear Phone Contact".
* Tap it to open other option. You will see:
+ Google
+ SIM
+ Phone
* Choose Google.
Now your contact has been saved under Google. When you sync your account it will be synced to your Gmail account.
Let me know if you face problems after this!
Cheers!
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/17 | 167 | 669 | <issue_start>username_0: All my custom Tasker shortcut icons get changed to the default Tasker icon and all the shortcuts' names got renamed to "Tasker" after every reboot no matter how many times I got them changed.
I have a rooted S3 running on Android 4.3 TouchWiz.
What should I do to fix this?
Thanks in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: From what Google tells me, this appears to be a TouchWiz issue. Try a different launcher and see if that fixes it.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Is Tasker installed on the SD card? I've seen that issue with other apps where some resources don't load. Try moving to internal storage.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/17 | 513 | 1,993 | <issue_start>username_0: I work as a developer from home and I wish to demo the android app to my boss. He doesn't have an Android phone, so I have to demo the app from my phone and demo all scenarios for him from my android phone.
The question is how do I share the screen with him ?
Here's what I tried ?
1 - [BBQdroid](http://screen.bbqdroid.org/) exactly what I want but it only works in a LAN, in fact I have to specify the android local IP address i.e. 192.168.x.x
2 - [Teamviewer quicksupport](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.teamviewer.quicksupport.market) but it exposes all the apps on my phone and it's not live sharing, I have to keep on sending screenshots.
3 - AirDroid only screenshots, no live sharing of the android screen
Please help me guys find a way to share the android screen live with my boss.
Thanks<issue_comment>username_1: Once your screen is showing on your desktop it is easy to share it with others by using Webex, Join.me or Google Hangouts.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_1: BTW - I was able to share my screen by installing Team Viewer to see my Note 4 screen on my Mac. Then I used Join.me to broadcast it to other to see.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You can use BBQDroid, but it will require additional tweaking on your router.
First, you'll have to find out your IP. This can easily be done by typing "my ip" into Google, which will return your public IP.
Next, you'll need to go into your router settings and add your Android device to the router's DMZ, meaning that all incoming connections get forwarded to your device.
Find out the model name and brand of your router, then look up instructions on how to access the DMZ.
By this point, your public IP should direct to your phone. Launch BBQDroid on your device and attempt to connect to it using your public IP from another device.
When you're finished, I'd recommend removing your Android device from your router's DMZ, as a security precaution.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/17 | 505 | 2,078 | <issue_start>username_0: I have Samsung Galaxy S4 and I cannot hear callers unless the speakerphone is on. The caller can hear me well but there is only a very faint which is inaudible sound back.
I have gone to all the settings but it does not change anything.
How can I fix this?<issue_comment>username_1: Your earpiece speaker may be dead. When you put your phone in speaker mode it uses different speaker(s). Some people use a bluetooth earpiece to get around this, but if that's not something you want to do then you may want to check and see if your phone is still in warranty.
Also, depending on your phone you can try taking a small brush and cleaning around your earpiece speaker. In some cases dust and other debris can collect and muffle the speaker, and considering how tiny these speakers and their speaker grills are (again, depends on your phone) it doesn'take much dust or debris to make it hard to hear. When i worked for Verizon this was a common problem that we encountered on a daily basis. Hopefully, that's all it is.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I fixed mine using following instructions:
Go to **Settings → My Device → Sound → Samsung Applications → Press Call → Turn Off Noise Reduction**.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I had the same problem and tried everything for two days, even did a factory reset, but nothing worked. Then I had an idea: the earpiece could've been blocked so I took an old toothbrush, brushed the ear piece for a minute to clear any debris and low, and behold it worked. So give it a try.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: If you have the plastic screen protector on the front of your phone, make sure it isn't covering your ear speaker.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: I tried many fixes but nothing worked. What worked was rolling a piece of hard paper to the size of headphone jack and inserting it to and fro several times until you see on screen headphones changing into ringer.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: Plugging in and out the headphones multiple times worked for me
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/17 | 501 | 2,079 | <issue_start>username_0: I know some 'normal' Java (computer Java), and I want to run such a program on my Android device. Is this possible? If yes, how?<issue_comment>username_1: You could yry using [JBED](http://jbed.en.malavida.com/android/). JBED is a program designed to offer the possibility to use Java applications (.jar files I believe) on devices with the Android OS. I've never used it so can't personally vouch for it.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Generally this is not possible as although Android-flavored java has the same syntax and semantics as typical java, it does not run on the same virtual machine (Google has its own VM that android phones all ship with and which has a different byte code format than conventional java VMs) nor does it use or have access to Oracle's java standard library. Google reimplemented most of the important elements (e.g. Google has its own implementation of HashMap, ArrayList, etc.) and ditched a lot of other stuff (e.g. there's no swing package in Google's library).
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: You can do it quite easily as there are many ways to run Java apps on Android. Specific application called Java Emulators can do it quite easily.
These are the popular Java emulators for Android: viz, JBED, PhoneME, Jblend and NetMite. There are arranged in order of my preference. You can use PhoneME for unrooted devices; however, if your device is rooted try any of the remaining three applications.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: If by *'normal' Java (computer Java)* you mean Java Standard Edition (J2SE - the Java programs that usually run on a PC, like Eclipse, Vuze etc...) then the answer is most probably no. There is no way to run them directly on Android and there are no (at least not known to me) apps or modifications that allow it.
The apps (emulators) mentioned in other answers are for the J2ME (Java2 Micro Edition, also known as MIDP and applications as "midlets") environment. They are the Java applications for mobile devices that were popular before Android appeared.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/02/17 | 1,004 | 4,338 | <issue_start>username_0: We recently switched from iPhone to Android and on both of our Samsung phones, apps that we have notifications for (Facebook, Skype, etc.) do not have a number next to the icon showing how many notifications they have. They used to on iPhone, and the system apps on Android still do like the Messaging and Email apps. I've triple checked the apps' settings and turned everything off and back on and still have no clue why it's doing this<issue_comment>username_1: Android doesn't have "badged" icons like that by default. Unlike iOS, Android has had a pull-down list of notifications since the start, so that has become the standard way to present this kind of information in this platforms. Most Android users would be disappointed to see a 3 on their email icon, because they've come to expect a notification in the notification bar, giving more information than that. This is even more true since Jelly Bean added the expandable notifications: you can see the subjects of all the new e-mails, or, if there's only one, see a preview of the whole e-mail.
As eldarerathis points out, some apps offer a widget that you can use instead of the usual icon on your home screen. The widget might have an icon badged with a number of messages, as on iOS, or the app might instead offer a scrollable list of messages, the avatar/photo of the sender, etc., which isn't possible on iOS.
As you've noticed, Samsung phones can have badged icons on the default home screen. This is a feature that Samsung has added to make their phone look more like an iPhone. But since it's only in their home screen, not a standard feature, only their built-in apps support it. This is in addition to Android's usual, information-rich notifications, not instead of, so you're not missing out by having a Samsung phone.
If you've been an iPhone user for a long time, you might have to get used to using the notification tray to see new messages instead of looking at the app shortcuts, or to adding widgets to your home screen if you like, but once you do you'll find you can get at your messages with fewer taps and less fuss.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Badge based notifications are generally handled by whatever application Launcher you have installed. Google Now stock launcher by default does not handle this. Nor do many other launchers. However, Samsung's launcher does handle most applications but not all.
[Nova Launcher](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.teslacoilsw.launcher) has an add-on called [TeslaUnread](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.teslacoilsw.notifier) which can be installed in addition to the Launcher which will handle all badges for all applications. It can also be completely customized to have the badge appear in any corner you wish as well as color of the badge. Alternatively you can install widgets, such as [Notifyer](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=co.uk.cornwall_solutions.notifyer) which will create a widget that appears as whatever icon you have chosen for whichever application and places it onto your launcher desktop. Whenever a notification is received, Notifyer will place a badge onto that icon.
I use a Samsung Note Edge. Samsung has an entire [SDK for developers](http://developer.samsung.com/sdk-and-tools) to create badges for their apps that are compatible with the Samsung launcher. As I noted before, Samsung has badges but not for every app. This is because apps have to have been custom designed with Samsung's badges in mind for them to function within a Samsung launcher. Personally I use Nova Launcher since it allows a lot more customization and control. Also I do not like the red or orange badges and preferred blue and Nova gave me this ability to change everything to how I like.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: My Galaxy Note 4 in the beginning had an icon number indication of interractions of each app like twitter pinterest etc, but after latest version updates the indicators are lost. So I guess is a matter of the app version.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: You may try this
Touch on your empty home screen for 2 seconds then a pop up will appear below screen.
Choose > More settings > Badge app icons > choose app which you want them to hidden or appears > done.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/18 | 704 | 2,728 | <issue_start>username_0: I just completed my Android application which scans NFC tags. When an NFC tag comes near the device, the device tries to show all the apps which can scan the NFC tag.
I want it to remember which app it should use to scan the NFC tag. It displayed my app, but I do not want the system to always ask me which app to use.
In my two devices, it not does show any option like `Use by default for this action` or `Always`, while in my other device with Android 4.2.2, it shows the options.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2EGN1.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/putsF.jpg)
Why is this so?<issue_comment>username_1: Someone or something has set defaults for the application(s), and this default was set as soon as someone or something set it either internally, or by hitting the button "Always."
In this case, you'll have to go to your App Drawer, go into Settings and find your Application Manager. In this case, you'll want to go to the application that doesn't have the option. Find it, click it, go down, and hit "Clear Defaults.", now, hit the home button, find the application you're wanting to run, and VOILA! The action menu should set itself back.
If it doesn't, find the application that is automatically running upon startup of that specific object, and hit Clear defaults.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: This is because there can be no default handler for all NFC intents. You'd have to create a mimetype for your NFC tag and use that mimetype as the data field for the intent filter.
However, this site doesn't deal with developer issues, so you'd be better off on StackExchange, for example [here](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/6536957/how-to-force-one-activity-with-same-intent-filters-in-android).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: NFC disovery events that indicate only a certain tag technology (or even only the presence of any tag) are usually too broad to be bound to just one app. It seems that the Android team therefore decided that it should not be possible for one app/activity to take precedence for such an unspecific event.
As a consequence, the only way how this mandatory intent chooser can be avoided is if an NDEF formatted tag is used and if the app's developer registered the app/activity for a more specific NDEF intent (e.g. a URI, an NFC Forum external type or a MIME type).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Just disable the default app for NFC by searching it in the application list. Post this your custom app will be the default app to run, when you tap NFC Tag and it will execute the task as you configured in the NFC Tag
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/02/18 | 868 | 3,162 | <issue_start>username_0: Is there a particular developer clause that was violated? If so, why is the facility blocked only on the Nexus and not other Android based devices?<issue_comment>username_1: According to a post in a [Google Product Forum](https://productforums.google.com/d/msg/nexus/JZxEcJwM0kQ/o-pimXv_AEoJ):
>
> A sync between Nexus devices and Facebook isn't possible by default.
> To get that information on your phone you will need to install a third
> party application that will sync the information to your phone.
>
>
> Manufacturers like HTC and Samsung enabled this on their own for the
> people that bought their devices.
>
>
>
An alternative to make this sync happen is to use a 3rd-party app like [Sync.ME - Sync for Facebook](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.syncme.syncmeapp&hl=en):
>
> • Full Screen Caller ID - See your friends' picture from Facebook,
> LinkedIn or VKontakte when they call you and when you call them.
>
>
> • Smart Matching - Matches automatically between your contacts to
> their social network profiles.
>
>
> • Contact Enrichment - Magically update your contacts with missing
> details (phone number, email, company, job title, address & website).
>
>
> • In-Call Experience - Take your phone calls to the next level! View
> your friend's latest social network posts and photos during call.
>
>
> • Birthday Reminders - Never forget your friends' birthdays again!
> Create and share personalized greetings for any occasion.
>
>
> • ME Card - Your ultimate contact and business card. Choose how you
> appear in your friends' and colleagues' phones. Edit your picture and
> details to keep them updated.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I did some digging around and found that this change was introduced in an update for Gingerbread. It applies to all Nexus devices starting from the Nexus S (except the Nexus One since it comes pre-installed with Facebook).
The problem Google has with Facebook sync is the inability to port the data that Facebook sync adds to the contacts, out of your device.
Here is an excerpt from their statement on this issue:
>
> Since Facebook contacts cannot be exported from the device, the
> appearance of integration created a false sense of data portability.
> Facebook contact data will continue to appear within the Facebook app.
> Like all developers on Android, Facebook is free to use the Android
> contacts API to truly integrate contacts on the device, which would
> allow users to have more control over their data. We are removing the
> special-case handling of Facebook contacts on Nexus S and future lead
> devices.
>
>
>
TechCrunch's coverage on this:
<http://techcrunch.com/2011/02/22/google-android-facebook-contacts/>
Engadget's coverage:
<http://www.engadget.com/2011/02/22/google-disables-contact-sync-in-facebook-for-android-only-nexus/>
I am still trying to find the official statement on a Google site. Will update it here if I find it. Also I want to know why Google doesn't get all manufacturers to enforce this rule if it is part of core Android policies.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer] |
2014/02/18 | 531 | 2,283 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a picture that I cherish deeply being used as my lock screen. The problem is that the Micro SD card I was using became corrupted at one point and needed to be formatted so the picture was lost. I need to know if there is a location on the files of the phone where I can copy it from. I mean the picture has to be being used somewhere right?
I was using an app called "File Manager" to search through the files and try to find it. If anyone can point me in the right location I would really appreciate it.
Android Version: 4.0.4<issue_comment>username_1: A couple of methods come to mind:
1. You could take a picture of your phone with another camera.
2. You could do a screen capture of you phone screen using built in functionality of the Android operating system. The method of doing a screen capture is different depending on which version of operating system you have. On my phone, I press and hold the POWER + HOME buttons at the same time and a screenshot is capture and saved to my SD card. Some older version of the Android operating system didn't have the screen capture functionality built in so depending on your version of the operating system, it may or may not be an option for you.
3. I have written a few Android apps before. I just checked the Android API's and it looks like I could write an app to retrieve the wallpaper image from your system memory and save it to a SD card if you have an SD card in your phone. The app would just read the image and wouldn't change it.
Also, do you have an SD card that is working now?
I understand how frustrating it is to lose an important image and would like to help you get it back if I can.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: From what I can tell from the other answers it sounds like the image you wish to retrieve is also your wallpaper.
If that is the case you could use an app I have been working on for this exact purpose, called [Get Current Wallpaper](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=dk.appdictive.getcurrentwallpaper&referrer=utm_source%3DAndroidStackExchange_question).
It will retrieve your current wallpaper, save it to your Pictures folder on your external storage drive and allow you to share it with whatever app you use to share images :)
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/18 | 637 | 2,371 | <issue_start>username_0: On my Android 2.3 phone I've exported my contacts and imported them on my new Android 4.4 phone, a Motorola G. Unfortunately, I found no way to edit the contact. When I open the "phone" application from the main screen, I click "All contacts" (translated) to get the list of all contacts. But as soon as I click on one item, it dials. Click-and-hold does nothing - no context menu occurs. How to edit the contacts (name, phone number)?<issue_comment>username_1: Don't use the phone/dialer app to edit contacts: use the main **People** app (it's called **Contacts** on some non-Nexus phones). From that app, when you click the contact you want, it displays that contact, and you can click the pencil icon on the *action bar* (at the top) to edit the contact. (The icon might look different on your phone, because most manufacturers replace the People app with their own variant.)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The trick is to click the **image**, not the remainder of the item, to be able to edit it.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: in KitKat 4.4.2, To view contact details just click the image of a certain person on your **Contact App** (not the dialer) but if you want to edit click on the name. :)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Click on the dial (phone icon). Find the person you intend to text. Select the 3 dot icon on the far right (at the bottom). Select "all contacts". Boom! Just scroll to the contact and select. I hope this gets ironed out as well.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_5: I just did this on my Nexus 4 w/4.4.2 and the above answer is partially right. Open your contacts and tap on the picture to open up the contact. Now tap the silhouette of the person next to the star. Now you can tap the 3 dots in the upper right corner and that opens up the editor. Finish the edit and tap done in the upper left.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: For Moto G and (possibly many other android devices) you *can* do this directly from the phone app:
Tap the person icon followed by the three dots in the top right (See circled icons below)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlDVL.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YRgiE.png)
Screenshots (click images for larger variants)
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/18 | 1,083 | 4,171 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm new to android and the Moto X. (iPhone 4s previously. don't judge.) I purchased my Moto X a couple days ago (2/15/14) and overall I'm very happy. The battery life has me concerned though. Last night before I went to bed I checked the battery and when I woke up I checked it again. I slept for about 6.5 hour and my phone died went from 63% to 47%. 16% for being idle for 6.5 hours seems like a lot to me. Previous phones would maybe lose a percent. Any thoughts or suggestions?
Not for sure what 'Android OS' includes it is pretty vague. It would be nice to see exactly what is causing the drain of 55%.
Overall it says 17h 39m 3s on battery at the time of this post. I unplugged it around 2pm yesterday afternoon. Very light use of the evening and like I said 63% went to bed.
\*\* Update \*\*
Over the past hour or so I've been searching the web looking at screenshot similar to those above. 100% of them have 'Screen' as their highest percentage and 'Android OS' at a much lower percentage. I must have something turned on that is causing Android to use more CPU time?
I'm running on AT&T with a KitKat 4.4 build. Still waiting for the 4.4.2 push.<issue_comment>username_1: This actually sounds pretty normal to me. If this screenshot was taken shortly after you woke up then it would make sense for the OS to have used more battery, since the screen would have been off for a long while. I've owned several Android phones, having worked for Verizon Wireless before becoming a developer, and I've never had an Android phone that I would trust to leave unplugged at night. Without fail, whenever I've done this (always by accident) whatever phone I was using lost a lot of charge by the time I woke up.
Having said that, I would check and see how frequently your phone is checking for new emails, as well as checking how often any other apps (like news apps, Facebook, whatever) are refreshing in the background. Checking your sync settings on any apps you are using, or even ones you may not be actively using, could make a big difference in battery life.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This issue gets pretty clear by the second screenshot, which I will repeat here:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1xazX.png)
Battery usage (click image for larger variant)
Please pay attention to its lower half, just below the graph, and let me point out some details:
* **Mobile network signal:** This bar has no black, which means the radio was on all the time. Further, the colors indicate a relatively weak signal (see [my answer here](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/29449/16575) for details), which most likely caused the device to permanently watch out for a "stronger signal source", powering up the radio for that, and consuming energy for this task.
* **Wi-Fi:** again, a continuous bar, so WiFi was turned on the whole time, consuming energy again.
* Interim result at this place: With all sync on (as it is by default), the device would also permanently synchronize your data (in intervals, of course) – contacts, calendars, etc.pp. – which again consumes battery.
* **Awake:** This bar clearly shows your device was not in "permanent standby". You always find "blue spots" on it, even during your sleep period (which most likely is, where the **Screen on** graph is black but there are blue spots on the "Awake" graph – i.e. most of the "last third")
* **Charging:** Continuous black, so no charger was connected. Guess where the juice had to come from then :)
**Conclusion:** Pretty normal behaviour, though I cannot speak *precisely* how much battery-use would be normal (that depends on too many factors unknown to me, as e.g. apps installed, sync intervals, "consumption specifications" of device components, and so on). If you feel it should last longer, consider switching to airplane mode at night (or turning at least WiFi off). There are even tools available which would automate this – some of them e.g. mentioned with my above linked answer.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2014/02/18 | 458 | 1,864 | <issue_start>username_0: Due to some reason my phone got stuck. I took out the battery and put it back and restarted my phone, but after that the time shown in my phone was in a back date. As a result I'm getting "I can't access play store". I even removed my account and now I try to login, but still can't access.
What can I do?<issue_comment>username_1: Did you try to delete the data of the Play Store under Settings->Apps->All->Play Store?
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Also try logging into the play store on your PC's browser.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: I don't know why did I read "black in time", which makes no sense: But as you wrote "my phone was in a back date" – ***Check your time settings, please!***
If your device time is too far off, certificates will cause trouble, which finally results in exactly that: no secure connection possible, and you cannot access your account. In cases like that it often helps to set the time *manually* (must not be to the second, if it's a minute off it's still fine). Then try again. You can set time adjustment to "automatic" again later.
Background: Certificates have a "livetime", including a start and an end. If your device is outside this frame, the certificate is either only valid "in the past" or "in the future", but not "now". So your device will *reject* it. Without a valid certificate, the *Google Play* app won't be able to establish a secured connection, and thus give you an "unable to access" (or similar) error.
Same applies btw. to other apps using secured connections – including the web browser when accessing sites via `https`. The latter you can use to check whether you've tapped into this trap: Start your web browser, try accessing e.g. `https://www.google.com/`, and see what happens. If you get a "certificate warning", that's it.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2014/02/18 | 500 | 1,824 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to root my nexus 7 tab. The first step is unlocking the bootloader. I want to know that unlocking will wipe the os or just data? Can I start the tab after unlocking<issue_comment>username_1: It doesn't wipe the OS (the system partition), only the user data. It's a precaution so that an attacker can't install a new OS to get around Android's security protections on your data. See [Why does unlocking the bootloader wipe phone?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/33691/why-does-unlocking-the-bootloader-wipe-phone) for more details on why.
When you first boot the device after unlocking the bootloader, if you don't flash a new OS right away, it'll go into the first-time setup wizard (where it asks you to sign into or create a Google account).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: *When unlocking your bootloader it wipes the tablet, so any data you have on it will be erased. So do a backup before doing anything.*
*Unlocking the boot loader will not wipeout the OS, that is only done if you install another ROM.*
Rooting the Nexus 7 is probably the easiest device to do it on. Here are some links that I have used in the past to accomplish that.
*The XDA forum:* [Wug's Nexus Root Toolkit v. 2.1.9](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1766475)
*The NexusToolkit download:* [Nexus Root Toolkit v2.1.9](http://www.wugfresh.com/nrt/)
Read both thoroughly, everything is explained in an easy to understand way.
The XDA forum is a great source of invaluable information.
The Nexus Toolkit is very concise, with an intuitive UI, that runs on your PC. This will unlock the boot loader, install(flash) recovery, install your boot.img(kernel), and install ROM. There is a vast amount of other features, but you'll find them out when using the toolkit.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/18 | 219 | 989 | <issue_start>username_0: The option to sync calendars is missing from the list for my 2 Google accounts, following some issues with syncing after which I deleted calendar data and calendar storage data.
I have tried reloading the accounts and all the other options come back - except the Calendar sync!!
Please help..<issue_comment>username_1: Try adding a new Google account, preferably via mobile data instead of Wi-Fi. It should restore the calendar sync option.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I am assuming you are on a rooted device.
Use your preferred file explorer to browse to : **/system/app**
There should be two apk files. One the calendar app (*calendar.apk*) and the other *calendarprovider.apk*. The second apk provides proper synchronization between the google account and the actual calendar application which is probably missing or not working.
You should be able to find a replacement apk for your specific device and rom on XDA.
Upvotes: 1 |
2014/02/18 | 856 | 2,699 | <issue_start>username_0: I have Galaxy S4 GT-I9500, plus I have much free space. Some apps have trouble to be installed which end after pressing "Install" and telling me "App not installed".
Please I need a solution for this weird issue.<issue_comment>username_1: This means the SD card hasn't been fully checked and mounted, and the app you're trying to run is on the SD. That's why you see the icon, but can't run it for awhile.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: try disabling security checks in Security preferences
Goto Settings-> More -> Security -> Uncheck Verify Apps and check Unknown sources
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: 1. Summary
----------
Try install your app via ADB → find information about error, that you get, in Google.
---
2. Demonstration
----------------
«[**Почта России**](https://4pda.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=527578)» («Russian Post») app in my case.
* Before:
* After:
---
3. Disclaimer
-------------
Causes of `App not installed` in your case may be another, than in my example.
But the actions are the same as in **Summary** section.
---
4. Prerequisites
----------------
You need:
1. [**Rooted**](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/249/202755) device
2. [**Enable**](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/67353/202755) [**USB debugging**](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/16251/202755)
3. Install [**ADB**](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/40051/202755) to your PC; simple way in Windows — [**using Chocolatey**](https://chocolatey.org/packages/adb)
---
5. Installation via ADB
-----------------------
1. Connect your Android phone to PC with enabling USB debugging
2. Download to PC apk file, that you can't install to Android
3. Try install your app from PC, use command:
```
adb install <>.apk
```
### 5.1. Example
```
D:\SashaDebugging\Android>adb install postal.russian-5.0.apk
* daemon not running; starting now at tcp:5037
* daemon started successfully
postal.russian-5.0.apk: 1 file push… 3.1 MB/s (5024614 bytes in 1.528s)
pkg: /data/local/tmp/postal.russian-5.0.apk
Failure [INSTALL_FAILED_UID_CHANGED]
```
---
6. Finding information about problem
------------------------------------
I search in Google `Failure [INSTALL_FAILED_UID_CHANGED]` → I read [**most popular Stack Overflow answer**](https://stackoverflow.com/a/17133431/5951529) → I navigate to `data/data` in my Android file manager → I find data of my «Почта России» app:
I delete selected folder → I try install «Почта России» again via APK Installer → installation was successful.
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/18 | 673 | 2,506 | <issue_start>username_0: Context
-------
I just Skyped with my mother (far away) because her Android tablet (Lenovo IdeaTab S6000, running on Android 4.2) showed a strange menu with Chinese characters, almost like a bootloader. My short troubleshoot history looks like this:
* When pressing the volume-keys, the displayed content changed, at one point the text contained "GPS", so I assumed it would be some kind of "hidden troubleshoot menu" for showing system information.
* A restart was possible after pressing and holding the standby-button, after restarting everything seemed untouched.
* Just to make sure, we changed her passwords.
* She did not visit any suspicious websites, nor did she install any apps recently.
With my little knowledge, so far I do not feel able to rule out an attack or a trojan app, from what I can see she could have activated the strange menu by accident. Via internet research I only found one individual with the same problem, but no solution at all.
Question(s)
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What can I do to determine the cause? Should I contact the provider/manufacturer? Is it safe to assume that her data & accounts are not compromised?
I know it is little information, so please bare with me, I just want to prevent damage.
Thanks for any advice.
TL;DR
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Lenovo IdeaTab showed strange chinese/asian-symbols-menu, gone after reboot, do what now?<issue_comment>username_1: >
> What can I do to determine the cause?
>
>
>
The user just accidentally accessed the Factory Mode on Lenovo tablet.
It can be accessed by:
1. Turn off the device
2. Hold "Volume Down", then connect the USB
(Image courtesy of XDA)
As a proof, there is a text containing "GPS" like you mentioned.
For the translation of each menu, you can [refer to the post on XDA forum (also, source of this information)](http://forum.xda-developers.com/lenovo-a3000/general/lenovo-3000-factory-mode-chinese-list-t2655858).
>
> Should I contact the provider/manufacturer?
>
>
>
If the user didn't do anything on this menu, then I believe you don't need to contact the provider/manufacturer since nothing happens.
>
> Is it safe to assume that her data & accounts are not compromised?
>
>
>
I believe no data are compromised. Factory Mode is usually related to device testing/configuration, but not individual user data.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you Hold power and up it will boot to English
Upvotes: 0 |
2014/02/19 | 236 | 895 | <issue_start>username_0: I was wondering if there was like an installation that you can install to a Galaxy S4 device to enable you to get KitKat?
I know some people with Galaxy S4's have already got KitKat installed, but it is taking forever to come through as a software update.
Do Samsung push out the KitKat update or the mobile carrier?<issue_comment>username_1: In the US, updates generally come through the carrier. Each carrier has to test & approve the update; so if an AT&T S4 has the 4.4 update, that doesn't mean that the Verizon version has been approved.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I'm O2 UK as well, and at 4.3, my phone is 'up to date'.
[This article](http://www.androidpit.com/kitkat-update-samsung-phones) suggests we'll be getting Kitkat, but not quite yet. If you look at comparable previous releases from Samsung, I think we've still got months yet.
Upvotes: 2 |
2014/02/19 | 317 | 1,152 | <issue_start>username_0: is it OK for the battery if you keep using the tablet while it's charging? And should you stop charging when it's fully charged.<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, you can use a tablet while it is charging. But, if you do something cpu intense (like 3d game) it can become a little hot.
No, you don't need to stop charging when fully charged. The tablet will make sure you don't overcharge.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: 1. It's advisable not to play graphic intensive games while charging, the cpu and graphics chipset gets hot which is not good for a long run meaning decreases longevity of the device.
2. Please disconnect the device from charge after a full charge i.e 100%, good for longevity of the battery.
3. To further increase the longevity of the battery you can keep charge cycle of 10%-90% or 20%-80% every time charging the device and give a full charge i.e 100% atleast once per month.
P. S - Number 3 Point only if you want to be extra careful with your battery. What I always do and is normally advisable never let battery go below 10% and never leave it charging once it says fully charged.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/02/19 | 361 | 1,335 | <issue_start>username_0: Is there something besides Moto Connect and Mighty text that would allow you to SMS/MMS from the desktop. Mac or PC. I came from a iOS world where iMessaging worked really well for the desktop. Hangouts is close, but I message a lot people with iPhones so it just doesn't cover enough people.
Any suggestions?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, you can use a tablet while it is charging. But, if you do something cpu intense (like 3d game) it can become a little hot.
No, you don't need to stop charging when fully charged. The tablet will make sure you don't overcharge.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: 1. It's advisable not to play graphic intensive games while charging, the cpu and graphics chipset gets hot which is not good for a long run meaning decreases longevity of the device.
2. Please disconnect the device from charge after a full charge i.e 100%, good for longevity of the battery.
3. To further increase the longevity of the battery you can keep charge cycle of 10%-90% or 20%-80% every time charging the device and give a full charge i.e 100% atleast once per month.
P. S - Number 3 Point only if you want to be extra careful with your battery. What I always do and is normally advisable never let battery go below 10% and never leave it charging once it says fully charged.
Upvotes: -1 |
2014/02/19 | 714 | 2,923 | <issue_start>username_0: Since moving to Japan, the chrome web browser on my phone (Samsung Galaxy S3) has been acting strangely. Sometimes it will happen when I switch to a new article on a news mobile website, or even if I click a link on facebook. What happens is that a popup comes up that takes up the whole screen that claims my phone has a virus and I should download something to get rid of it. I'm not an idiot, so I never click those popups and close the page immediately. My question is that I'm wondering if I may already have a virus on my phone, and that's why I'm getting these pop ups all of the sudden. Is there a good way to check for viruses on phones? Thanks for your help.<issue_comment>username_1: You can block pop ups for all sites in the chrome setting however I still get those spammy pop ups even after blocking pop ups for all sites in chrome beta.. All those pop ups you get saying that" your device has virus" or" your device is running slow" are absolutely spam. Those have no relation with your device. Their main motto is to mislead audience and make them install malicious apps that can compromise the security of device..But if you need some good security you can find plenty of them on the play store. You can go for 360mobile security which has a great detection rate and is free to download. Or you can go for Lookout that has a good anti-theft feature that is also free.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I can assure you there is no virus in your device. Those pop-ups will just lead you to any application and games sites, dating sites, etc. Internal pop-blocker of Chrome won't help you in this case. I would advice normal browsers like UC Browser mini & Opera mini to get rid of the pop-ups. Try them and you'll see the difference.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I had the same exact problem. It went from my phone to my PC to my laptop. Reset my phone thrice to get rid of it but the pop ups would start again immediately after reset. I finally figured out that the problem was on my WiFi. My computer that had been hooked up to the wifi had a network virus and had infected everything that was connected to it. Disconnect everything from your wifi. Then connect one thing at a time as you download Quickheal and run their malware program. Once you've done it for the computer/laptop, the phone should be fine after a reset.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: Great answer, username_3. I hadn't thought of that possibility.
Good answer, MANI, however this is abnormal under any of the top dozen browsers. Annnnd, antivirus apps just give you a false sense of security.
Next time that happens, I'd use the shellcode below to investigate these four places. Get the android terminal app.
```
shell@android:/data/data/com.browser.application # ls
cache
databases
files
lib
```
Maybe not lib....
Try this first:
<https://adblockplus.org/android-faq>
Upvotes: 0 |