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2013/02/16
416
1,675
<issue_start>username_0: Ok so I rooted my samsung galaxy note 10.1 today. I immediately bought the full version of adw launcher and installed it. Now I have a bit of experience with Android and launchers so I have tried all the usual methods of setting a default launcher. I tried the home key then "always use" method. I tried clearing the default on the stock launcher. And I've been looking at other methods but none sound like anything I want to risk doing with my new 500 dollar tablet. Does anyone know of a simple and straight forward method of setting a default launcher? EDIT:: It was asking me to select a default launcher despite the fact that i had said that i want it to always use ADW EX. In the end the solution was to simply use Titanium Backup and remove all the other launchers. =) (Sent from my rooted Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1 using Google Chrome)<issue_comment>username_1: The simple and straightforward method to set the default launcher is the one you used: 1. Tap the Home button. 2. Tap **ADW.Launcher**. 3. Tap **Always**. If this isn't working for some reason, then it might help to describe what the device is doing instead. ![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2UFPQ.png) Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: The problem can be fixed by removing the other apps that are available to be used. After all if there is only one option, that HAS to be the default right? A good tool for this is titanium backup. It is for root users so if you do not have root you will have to find some other way of removing the app (adb would probably be your best option if you refuse to root your phone) Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]
2013/02/17
511
2,061
<issue_start>username_0: I just bought a Nexus 4, and this is like my first Android phone. Can someone please help me to increase the call volume? It is really low on my phone. I tried to increase it but the maximum is too low for me.<issue_comment>username_1: Call volume can be adjusted by using the volume rocker buttons only during a call. If not in a call, it adjusts ringer volume and if a media is played, it adjusts media volume. So, if you had mistakenly increased media or ringer volume then you might not have any effect on call volume. Try making some calls and when it's dialing, press volume up to raise volume level. I am just saying all this because you said you are new (though this is a common feature for other phones as well) to Android. If you had already done this and still you can't hear properly, I am afraid there are no further solutions to improve the volume. However, there are work around like using hands-free or headphones. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can also use an app like [Volume Control +](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cb.volumePlus) to adjust different types of volumes: Media, Ring, Notifications, In-call, alarm, system. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: You can tune volume level for lots of things in your device with [ES Task Manager](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.estrongs.android.taskmanager). Go to `Power Optimizer` > `Other` (in the bottom right corner) > `Volume`. Here you can tune the volume level for incoming calls, notifications, medias (music and video), alarm, **volume during a call** and system sounds. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I had a similar issue with the in call volume. I restarted my phone in safe mode, and it fixed the issue. To restart the phone is safe mode, hold the power button to turn off phone. Hold the Power Off option for a few seconds and reboot to safe mode. The problem should be fixed once you delete any apps that crash in safe mode. Restart the phone and the volume should be much louder. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/17
346
1,209
<issue_start>username_0: Does the Google Nexus 10 tablet-PC have a standalone GPS, or does its GPS rely on GSM data?<issue_comment>username_1: I believe Nexus 10 has GPS hardware which can provide location information without any aid from GSM or Wi-Fi sources - same as my Nexus 7 Wi-Fi only model. I have used my Nexus 7 on road (without any data connection) and used is GPS capabilities. I'm just wondering how a did you get this suspicion when the specification clearly says about availability of the GPS? Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The Nexus 10 has A-GPS, so it can speed up the time to the first fix, either via GSM (if it has one) or via network from an assistance server. See <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Assisted_GPS> Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: The Nexus 10 has AGPS and also a hardware GPS built in. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Yes, you can turn off "Wi-Fi & mobile network location" from settings, which disables A-GPS features leaving you with plain, unassisted GPS. You can read more from [Google Nexus 10 help: Manage location access](https://support.google.com/nexus/10/answer/2819558?p=settings_location&hl=en-GB&version=17&rd=1) Upvotes: 1
2013/02/17
292
1,011
<issue_start>username_0: I have karbonn a9 plus smart phone. It is a dual sim phone, but I only use 1 SIM. The second SIM signal icon with no network always shows in the notification area. I want to remove it from my notification area. How do I do this? I have rooted my phone.<issue_comment>username_1: Root your phone. Install Xposed Framework and install a module for hiding the extra sim sign. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: The **Xposed Framework** can help you with this. Read about the Xposed Framework and how to install it from [here](http://www.addictivetips.com/android/what-is-xposed-framework-for-android-how-to-install-it-guide/). Verify if your handset is supported. Here are some modules for the framework that you can look into: * [Xposed StatusBar Mods](http://repo.xposed.info/module/com.dr8.sbicons.sense) (still in beta, confirm phone support) * [Status Bar Icon Hider](http://forum.xda-developers.com/xposed/modules/mod-hide-statusbar-icons-clock-battery-t2768605) Upvotes: 1
2013/02/17
452
1,693
<issue_start>username_0: I have a phone with 512MB of ram. The company has launched the Jelly Bean update for the phone. Currently my phone is running Android ICS 4.0.4 which has alot of lag and frameloss issues, So I am thinking to update to JB. However I am concerned about the memory usage of JB. So my question is: Whether JB uses more ram than ICS?<issue_comment>username_1: 512 MB RAM is too little for gingerbread, let alone ICS. And you're thinking of jelly bean. Jelly bean is meant for phones with around 2 GB RAM. Ofcourse Jelly bean uses a whole lot RAM than ICS. You should downgrade to gingerbread or possibly froyo so that phone works well without any lag and freezeups. Even if you downgrade to gingerbread, you should not install more apps from google play because 512 is just enough to run gingerbread without more apps. BTW, why did you buy a 512MB RAM only phone? Should have purchased at least 1 GB RAM phone. Android is becoming a heavy resource consuming system and 1 GB is minimum the way applications are being launched. Its becoming more and more bloated by the day Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Jelly Bean uses pretty much the same amount of RAM. There's not much of a difference. Performance-wise, Jelly Bean is much better. It will even make phones with 512MB RAM feel smooth, with some lag still, cause you know.... 512MB RAM, but it should feel much better than ICS. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Jellybean will use the same amount of RAM like ICS. But one thing, Jellybean using "BUTTER PROJECT", a project from google that beats lag.. So basically, the update from ICS to Jellybean will give much faster and smooth experience.. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/17
532
2,042
<issue_start>username_0: I already know how to modify an android ROM by modifying files, remove and add it into ROM. But I don't have knowledge to building/compiling a ROM. I want to lock the OS so none can ever install new app to it. Well at least for they that not have a knowledge to flash the ROM with other OS. Is there a way to prevent user from install any application to the ROM? like removing the market app or the package installer, pros n cons?<issue_comment>username_1: I think the easier way would be with a modded stock ROM. Starting with a full stock ROM, I would do the following: 1. Root the ROM. 2. Install a custom kernel with init.d support. 3. Remove unwanted google apps. 4. Set `/data` to read only. You can do this with a init.d script that remounts the folder: `mount -o remount,ro /data` 5. Remove root. The only problem is that the user wouldn't be able to save no data. Another aproach might be to change the permisions of `/data/app` folders (app-private and so) to 644 (755 for directories) and change ownership to root. That way the user won't be able to write to the apps folder, but it would be able to save information in the `/data` folder (and subfolders). If you don't need any google apps, you can use *CyanogenMod* or other Custom ROM that doesn't have anything from Google apps installed. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Your idea of removing the store and package installer should work. To do so, delete the following apks (and any .odex files of the same name) from /system/app, either in your ROM image or after obtaining root. * DefaultContainerService.apk - used for app installs by both the Play store and Packageinstaller. * PackageInstaller.apk - This is used to install non-market apps. * Vending.apk - This is the Play store. * Phonesky.apk - This is the Play store on JB and some ICS builds. With those gone (and the phone unrooted), it should be impossible to install anything. Note : I have not tested this. Making a backup before doing this would be advisable. Upvotes: 2
2013/02/17
596
2,263
<issue_start>username_0: Looking at the battery usage summary on my Galaxy Ace Plus (GT-S7500), I found that "Samsung Push Service" (v1.0.4) has used 29% of my battery. I'm having problems with the battery not lasting very long (about 1 day mostly on standby), so anything that extends the time a charge lasts will be valuable. What does the "Samsung Push Service" do? Should I uninstall it (I never chose to install it, so it must have been on the phone to start with), or is there another way to reduce it's battery usage? Edit: When drilling down into the Samsung Push Service from battery usage, I see that is keeping my phone permanently awake. This doesn't seem sensible!<issue_comment>username_1: I think the easier way would be with a modded stock ROM. Starting with a full stock ROM, I would do the following: 1. Root the ROM. 2. Install a custom kernel with init.d support. 3. Remove unwanted google apps. 4. Set `/data` to read only. You can do this with a init.d script that remounts the folder: `mount -o remount,ro /data` 5. Remove root. The only problem is that the user wouldn't be able to save no data. Another aproach might be to change the permisions of `/data/app` folders (app-private and so) to 644 (755 for directories) and change ownership to root. That way the user won't be able to write to the apps folder, but it would be able to save information in the `/data` folder (and subfolders). If you don't need any google apps, you can use *CyanogenMod* or other Custom ROM that doesn't have anything from Google apps installed. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Your idea of removing the store and package installer should work. To do so, delete the following apks (and any .odex files of the same name) from /system/app, either in your ROM image or after obtaining root. * DefaultContainerService.apk - used for app installs by both the Play store and Packageinstaller. * PackageInstaller.apk - This is used to install non-market apps. * Vending.apk - This is the Play store. * Phonesky.apk - This is the Play store on JB and some ICS builds. With those gone (and the phone unrooted), it should be impossible to install anything. Note : I have not tested this. Making a backup before doing this would be advisable. Upvotes: 2
2013/02/18
460
1,691
<issue_start>username_0: Using: Droid Bionic 4.04 without Root. I can use the adb to pull a specific apk file to my PC, for example, ``` adb pull /data/app/com.google.android.gm-1.apk C:\my-hacks ``` which pull gmail's apk file. But when I try to copy the entire /data/app directory with ``` adb pull /data/app C:\myhacks ``` the command line reads pull: building file list... 0 files pulled. 0 files skipped. I don't understand **why** I have permission to pull specific files from /data/ but not everything.<issue_comment>username_1: It's a "permission and privacy" thing. While the `.apk` does not have any privacy concerns involved (and thus can give read permission to everyone), the data do, and thus the directory is only readable by owner, group, and root (not by "other", which is what you would need -- "other" has only eXecute permissions). ``` ls -l / | grep data drwxrwx--x 25 system system 4096 Jan 28 17:51 data ``` Which means: Specifying the file directly, you can pull it (as it has the required file permissions, and the directory permits you to `cd` into due to the set eXecute bit). Specifying the directory instead fails, as this would require to change (`cd`) into the directory (which works) and build a list of files contained -- which is impossible due to the missing read permission on the directory entry itself. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Izzy's answer is good and well explained. Building on that, if you are root, you can open root explorer, navigate to `/data/` and change the permissions on the app folder. Simply long press the app, tap `Permissions`, and next to other, check the appropriate box(es). Upvotes: 0
2013/02/18
160
653
<issue_start>username_0: My phone is an Android Evo, and it keeps telling me I have low storage. I have removed everything - facebook, email, messages, text messages, and pictures, but it's still low.<issue_comment>username_1: Go to `Settings > Storage`. This should list available space and the size of used space for apps, pictures, videos, music, downloads, etc. You can use this as a guide to go through your storage and find files you can clean up. Once you have figured out what is taking up a lot of space, then you can ask how to clear up a particular item. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Try clearing out the cache files. Upvotes: -1
2013/02/18
1,204
4,784
<issue_start>username_0: I have an application running on a rooted no-name Android tablet running ICS 4.0.3 that controls a USB device via the USB host mode interface. The android.hardware.usb.host.xml file is present in /system/etc/permissions and everything works wonderfully. Except... When I run the app for the first time following a reboot and then plug in the USB device I get a popup window saying "Allow the app APPNAME to access the USB device? [] Use by default for this USB device. Cancel OK" and I have to tap OK before it can start using the device. I need to turn off the user confirmation so that the app can use the device straight away. How do I do this? I've seem some suggestions about using a keypress generator to simulate the user tapping the button on the screen but I'd prefer to avoid that sort of approach and set things up so that the confirmation request simply doesn't happen. I probably can't get the supplier to do a custom kernel build for me, but I should be able to get the firmware signing key from them so I can sign my app as a system app, if that will help. One associated problem: ticking the "Use by default for this USB device" box doesn't appear to help - if I unplug and replug the device then I get the confirmation prompt again. I have noticed in this situation that the device number in /dev/bus/usb/001/ changes each time I unplug and replug (001, 002, 003 etc) which perhaps explains this particular problemette.<issue_comment>username_1: This question and answer is basically a duplicate of <https://stackoverflow.com/a/15151075/588476> See the above link for an example program and more in depth discussion. As far as I know, there are two ways to get the USB permission box popup: 1. Request permission explicitly from your application using UsbManager.requestPermission(...) 2. Register an intent-filter on your accessory and let the system ask for permission when the device is attached In the case of 1 I have found that the checkbox on the popup to remember the permission has no effect. For me, I removed all code related to permissions from my software and simply put the intent-filter in my manifest. When the USB device is plugged in, if it hasn't already been granted permission then the USB permission box will popup. If the user clicks OK without checking the remember box, then the box will popup again the next time the device is connected. However if the user checks the box and presses OK then the box should never display again (unless the software is uninstalled and then reinstalled). I'm not sure if there is a bug somewhere related to your device showing up as /dev/bus/usb/001 and then 002 etc - let me know if you are using the intent-filter, as without that the remember checkbox will do nothing. I do not know of any way that you can avoid the permission popup altogether. I suspect there is no way to do it without digging into the android code like you said. Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Further to my comment, I had a look into the underlying Android code. I have a possible answer, but with no less than four major caveats and obstacles: 1. I haven't tried it, because I don't have any suitable USB devices to hand. 2. You need a new permission 3. The permission requires that you are a system app 4. The code requires access to something not in the public API **Forget about this if deploying ordinary after-market apps!** The first prerequisite is that you have the `MANAGE_USB` permission. That is described [here](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/38388/what-do-the-permissions-that-applications-require-mean). However in turn the prerequisites for that are that you sign with the system key, and you install your app into /system/app. Anyway, if you're OK with that, here's some code: ``` IBinder b = ServiceManager.getService(USB_SERVICE); IUsbManager service = IUsbManager.Stub.asInterface(b); service.grantDevicePermission(mDevice, uid); ``` `mDevice` is the device from before. `uid` is your own app's UID and you can look that up. An example of how to do that is the first answer [here](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/6875916/how-to-get-uid-value-of-an-android-application-from-a-list-displayed-in-a-spinne). All good? No. `ServiceManager` is `android.os.ServiceManager` and thus isn't a public API. That, in this example, is your way to getting your hands on the `IUsbManager` service (there may be other routes). Now, getting around *that* is beyond the scope of my answer; in the old days you could use reflection, but I don't know if you still can. After all of those shenanigans, it looks like you don't need to request permission any more, and if you do, it will return immediately with no dialog. Upvotes: 3
2013/02/18
301
1,231
<issue_start>username_0: I am using Samsung Galaxy Y Duos phone. Today, my phone showed the notification for software update. So, I clicked on it and installed the updates. The update was more than 12 MB in size. Before update, my phone was showing GINGERBREAD.DDLJ1 build number. Now, it is GINGERBREAD.DDMA3. I Googled for it, but did not get any information about it. Is this build number given by Samsung or Google? How will I know what this update changed, or what new features it added to my phone? How will I know what performance impacts it has on my phone? Normally whenever we update the app, it shows changelog about changes or new features to be added to that app. But, they are not providing any kind of changelog after the OS update.<issue_comment>username_1: Check your internal memory. It will not be increased but the apps will take less load on internal memory. And there will be better stability. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: DDLJ1 and Builds starting from DD are the roms basically made for Indian based samsung models. These are official update pushed by Samsung called OTA updates. For more info on samsung's builds you ca refer <http://www.sammobile.com/firmwares/1/> Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]
2013/02/18
781
3,308
<issue_start>username_0: I'm not exactly sure when it happened. Originally my location history was accurate. About a month ago my location history map looked close to being correct but the mileage was ridiculous! For example, I drive about 30 miles one way to work. Most of the time lately the mileage shows me driving about 700 miles! It looks like it might be making multiple trips but I can't tell because I can't expand the history map. I have a Nexus 4 with a straight talk SIM using AT&T. Any ideas what could cause this strange behaviour -- or even better, how to fix it?<issue_comment>username_1: Not sure if this really qualifies as an answer, but since I don't have enough points to comment and I do want to contribute what I've discovered about this problem, it'll have to do... I've had a very similar sounding problem for the last 2 weeks or so with no obvious trigger in terms of app or firmware updates. My location history has gone crazy with some days getting reported travel distances of 10 - 20 *thousand* miles in spite of me just going to work and back (60 miles each way). What is happening is that while I am at work, or travelling (or anywhere away from home), location points are being recorded for where I actually am, then for a point very close to my home location, then back where I am again, then back at home, etc. The system seems to be seeing me travelling home and back roughly once per minute, and all those journeys quickly add up! So far I have tried switching off wifi/cell location services, but that gives you basically no location history and Google Now is largely disabled, so that's no help. Turning wifi/cell location services back on and then turning wifi off when away from home does help - it gets rid of the 'home and back' in one minute journeys, but the location history is less accurate when away from home. I am using an app called 'Llama' to do this automatically at the moment. My conclusion from this is that for some reason wifi location reporting is giving a bogus result of 'near home' constantly throughout the day. The only sensible reason I can think of for this would be if I was carrying around another device acting as a wifi access point and that Google location services had learned to location of that wifi point as being at my home. However, I'm not actually carrying around such a device. Next steps I am considering trying : * wipe the data associated with the maps app on the device * wipe the data associated with the wifi app on the device * do a factory reset on the device and restore As suggested by GAThrawn below, the most likely cause of this problem is having a second Android device set to report location in addition to your primary device. You take your phone with you, but your tablet sits at home. Both report their location once per minute, or thereabouts, and your location history goes crazy. The solution in my case was simply to turn off location reporting in the Google maps settings on the secondary device. I also have a Nexus 4, on T-mobile UK Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I had the same issue. I have a second device at home which was intermittently causing my location to jump back to home multiple times a day. Disabling reporting on the device seems to have fixed the issue. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/18
218
876
<issue_start>username_0: I need to fix a friend's phone this evening that has suddenly produced loads of android.process.media and com.google.process.gapps errors. I am going to reinstall the OS as it's an older ROM but it got me wondering: there is `memtest` for x86 based devices that will test the RAM of a PC, is there a similar app that can be loaded in place of an OS on Android that will do the same thing?<issue_comment>username_1: This tests RAM, storage and well many other device features: [Phone Check (and Test)](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.inpocketsoftware.andTest) Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Like to point out that Apps most definitely can test hardware without root access. Bad memory can be traced via stress tests even within OS limitations, although not pinpointed but to know if its bad or not its quite useful. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/18
425
1,698
<issue_start>username_0: We are seeking a reliable method to get the .apk file for any arbitrary application that may currently exist on Google Play store. ("legit" reasons may be e.g. to later restore to *application v8* even if only *application v11* is available to public). I am not aware of any utility that can do this, so one approach might be to capture all packets which cross your wireless network to your Android device, like when the user installs an app from Play store. So we want to see if it's possible to capture all .apk files downloaded to the Android device upon user install from Play. 1. which wireless capture utility should you use (e.g. [pcap](http://www.kismetwireless.net/android-pcap/)?), and should it be run from your Android or some other machine? 2. how do you reassemble a .apk file from a sequence of frames? 3. Is there any encryption of data that would prevent the capture of the .apk file? 4. Is there an easier way to get an .apk? Tried the [emulator](http://developer.android.com/tools/devices/managing-avds-cmdline.html) but it doesn't work for all apps. `adb backup` gives a compressed `.ab` file, but we want the `.apk` itself in extracted form, and not buried in some `.ab` compressed file.<issue_comment>username_1: This tests RAM, storage and well many other device features: [Phone Check (and Test)](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.inpocketsoftware.andTest) Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Like to point out that Apps most definitely can test hardware without root access. Bad memory can be traced via stress tests even within OS limitations, although not pinpointed but to know if its bad or not its quite useful. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/18
304
1,244
<issue_start>username_0: I'm working for my university's CS Department, and we've got a Digital Forensics project which requires us to create a one-to-one .dd image of a T-Mobile Galaxy S3 (Jellybean 4.1), so that we can recover some deleted data. I've done some Googling, and called Samsung, but I haven't been able to find any way to create an uncompressed image without rooting, and we can't root the phone without dealing with some legal ramifications. Does anyone know of a program that can get the image without rooting?<issue_comment>username_1: It's impossible to obtain block level access to a block device without root, since all of those files grant the write permission only to root. At least I have never seen it any other way and I doubt that the S3 is an exception here. It's not because it's technically impossible, the default permissions simply forbid it. A this is done for a pretty good reason: It would be a major security issue if this was possible: The normal user could get a dump of *all* the filesystem data. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Try Concepts like JTAG ... As far as i know, It is the only method to take a complete image of a non-rooted Device. Correct me if i'm wrong Upvotes: -1
2013/02/19
1,421
5,504
<issue_start>username_0: When I'm on my work computer, I'd like to connect my phone via USB and have the possibility to answer calls or initiate calls directly from my computer, using a microphone handset directly connected to the computer, not the phone. I Googled assuming something like this already existed, but I didn't find that specific use (I found GtalkSMS, EasySMS, AirDroid, but most of them are for SMS/MMS only). How can this be done? It would be great if this would be directly connected to Google+ (like initiating a Hangout that would automatically use my phone, or a GTalk call that would use my connected phone instead of a "web" phone number).<issue_comment>username_1: The only Linux application I know that could achieve this is '[HFP for Linux](http://nohands.sourceforge.net/)'. It works by implementing the [Bluetooth HFP 1.5 Hands-Free Profile](http://www.bluetooth.org/docman/handlers/DownloadDoc.ashx?doc_id=41181&ei=fYYjUaTJD8GL4ASG-4FI&usg=AFQjCNFQr7WFavLbMqSiGaUsvOLbtj8vmg&sig2=zQvWe-UauOM_kbxaUCJa_g&bvm=bv.42553238,d.Yms) (PDF file), which basically makes your PC a remote control/headset for your Android phone. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As far as I've seen, there's no solution aside from ADB and custom coding to perform call forwarding over USB that can be trusted; Bluetooth self-induced MitM, I don't consider it very secure for client calls. Side note here, "Bad USB" (AKA Rubber Ducky or HID) attacks are too easy to deploy if your device is infected with the latest generation of cross-platform malware; if one cares about their workplace security, phones shouldn't be plugged into the corporate network or computers. So, I'll suggest what I know to have worked for providing similar features you've requested. The trick I've used in the past doesn't require the phone to be connected to a PC to answer calls but should still work as desired; look up Google Voice number to forward calls to your cell or PC; an additional benefit of using Google Voice is that groups of contacts or individual contacts can have their own custom voice mail greetings setup. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: This is what one of Apple's "Continuity" features, "Handoff", does... yes? But Handoff's only good between Mac and iPhone, so I have used Google Voice to dial and answer calls to my Android phone on my Mac. You can connect your phone to Google Voice or port your number to Google Voice and then you can use Hangouts to answer and make calls. (If you have Sprint, like I do, this works great! Just use your number as a Google Voice number and it's totally synced; unlike fully porting your number over, everything stays the same with your Sprint service except now you use Google Voice VM but it's better and more convenient anyhow and nothing changes from the phone-side). Also, have you tried AirDroid (AirMirror)? I use AirDroid for controlling my phone from the computer (Mac App or Website > computer and phone must be hooked to the same network); I also have it set up as security and to find the location, in case my phone is lost or stolen. And I use Pushbullet's Chrome extension for texting [because it is easier and I discovered it first;)]. AirDroid(AirMirror) is almost like Handoff except I don't know if it accepts incoming calls, but you can make outgoing. Check out: <http://gadgets.ndtv.com/apps/features/how-to-make-calls-send-and-receive-sms-from-your-computer-using-an-android-phone-654766> There are a couple company's that I read about that are said to offer this exact solution but I don't have personal experience (except "Vysor", I have used as an Android mirroring app for presentations): * Remote Phone call- <https://www.justremotephone.com/> * \*Mobizen- mobizen.com * Vysor \*Seems like a great platform. But ultimately, it seems like these are simply mirroring apps. Which actually could be just fine; the mirroring route is not as clean and fluid as Google Voice has been for me because of the necessary setup, every. single. time. But it could be an easy hack or workaround for this problem. You just activate the mirroring system when you sit down for work on your computer, then plug your headset into your phone, and then you can use the app's screen mirroring your phone to answer or dial calls, etc. Either way, there are so many apps and stuff out there, I'm sure there are other options but in my experience, Google Voice has been the best at doing what you asked, and it's simple and seamless > once you set it up, you can forget about it! Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I use [Mightytext](https://mightytext.net/) as it allows you to dial phone calls and send SMS messages from the browser. I have used it on Windows & Linux with an android phone. No need for a USB connection either. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: There is a Java application which you can use to connect your Android device with your Linux/Windows installation. It needs ADB. As part of your question, without a USB, you can use ADB's `tcpip` function so you won't need a USB cable all the time. Just connect it once, enable `tcpip`, and then connect over a wireless connection. It won't forward your incoming calls, but you can use your Android screen. I have written a [tutorial](https://abdullah.today/how-to-share-android-screen/) on its usage as well. Once connected with ADB, you can dial a number from the phone like this: ``` adb shell am start -a android.intent.action.CALL -d tel:+12345678 ``` Upvotes: 2
2013/02/19
417
1,633
<issue_start>username_0: I am trying to create a calendar event with email notification using my HTC desire, but I can't figure how to do it. I tried both the built-in calendar app as well as mobile Google calendar website. How can I make it work?<issue_comment>username_1: I just added a new Schedule to my Google Calendar, it offered me a feature to notify me by email when the event occurs, and i have got the email also. look a bit below there is a option offering these feature. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: For the [Google Calendar website](https://www.google.com/calendar), desktop version (the following doesn't apply to mobile version of the website, so you must request desktop version of the page from your mobile browser): Edit or create your calendar event, under event color selection you'll see **Reminders**, by default you'll have an email sent 10 minutes before the event start time. ![Warning about rendering desktop site on mobile browser](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dbZom.png) ![Google Calendar website (desktop version requested from mobile browser Chrome)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ixBUt.png) --- The following is for the [Google Calendar](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.calendar) app: Open your calendar event, go to **Reminders**, then tap the triangle selector under *Notification*, you'll see there is an ***Email*** option too. If there is no reminder set, tap *Add reminder* first, or edit your event (the pencil icon). ![Calendar Event](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fx4qC.png) ![Email option in reminders](https://i.stack.imgur.com/sfcSj.png) Upvotes: 2
2013/02/19
1,735
6,316
<issue_start>username_0: I have an LG P990, and I recently upgraded it to ICS. Since that, the charging is much slower and energy consumption is much faster. I could live with it, I charged it at work and at home too. Yesterday however it went from 85% to empty in one night. 49% of the energy consumption is Wifi according to Battery usage. I want to know how to periodically turns WiFi on, and after a few minutes off. Every program I was able to find did the first part, but when it found a known network, left it on indefinitely. In the settings I have "Keep wifi on during sleep" set on "Never", but it does not help.<issue_comment>username_1: Some of the Norton apps may work, something like the Norton Task Manager. They have useful functions inside their apps. Or, just search for "wifi disabler" in Google Play. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You could try [Sentry](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dimet.sentry). It also has a paid version. > > Tired of accidentally leaving your WiFi running all day and wearing > down your device's battery? Tired of being home for hours and > forgetting to turn on your WiFi? Sentry can help! > > > Sentry is a fully automated WiFi manager that only requires a simple > configuration to start. It packs many features into a simple-to-use > application so you don't have to waste any time on setup. > > > Sentry operates by cycling your WiFi. If it gets a connection or was > already turned-on and connected, it remains on, otherwise, it turns > the WiFi off to save battery. > > > Even if Sentry is activated you can still manually connect to WiFi or > turn your WiFi without interrupting. > > > Sentry can be configured to run in any or all of three ways. > > > First, Sentry can be configured to run on a polling interval, e.g. 30 > minutes, and check the WiFi status periodically. > > > Second, Sentry can set to check WiFi status every time the screen is > unlocked.\*\* > > > Last, Sentry can be set to run every time the phone boots up. Used in > conjunction with the other two functions, this can either be used to > make sure Sentry is always running or to simply check for WiFi every > time the phone reboots. > > > Does Sentry running in the background use up my battery life? Nope! > Not one bit! Sentry is actually only ever truly running when it's > cycling the WiFi, which depending on the timeout you set, shouldn't be > for much more than a minute, so no, it shouldn't negatively affect > your battery life. > > > Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Before doing so, I'd consider two more things: Finding the real cause ---------------------- High WiFi usage is not caused by WiFi itself (standby), but most likely by another app constantly requesting it to "stay awake". So first check [How to deal with (orphaned) WakeLocks?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/34969/16575) -- which also deals with this. Checking your WiFi standby policy --------------------------------- In *Settings→Wireless & Networks→WiFi*, when pressing the menu button, an item named "Advanced" appears. Tap that to go into the advanced settings and check the *Wifi Standby Policy*. There are 3 options available: * Always: WiFi stays awake even when the display is turned off. Useful if you're streaming music. * Only when connected: Only when a power source is connected (i.e. the device is charging) -- as in that case the "battery consumption" usually is not an issue. * Never: WiFi goes to standby as soon as the display is turned off. WiFi managing tools ------------------- If this requirement still is present after thoroughly checking above two points, there are multiple options available in this section -- enough to fill at least a small book. First, there are tools like e.g. [JuiceDefender](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.latedroid.juicedefender) or [GreenPower](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.gpo.greenpower), dealing not only with WiFi and mobile networks, but covering a lot more energy saving stuff. Other interesting tools might include [WifiBatt](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.neniinoo.android) and many others -- just check the related apps on their playstore pages, or use [Mapsaurus](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mapsaurus.apps) to find similar apps. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: I just installed this application called [Silence](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.epsilonlabs.silence.ads). It turns on and off settings based on a schedule. That is EXACTLY what you asked for but like the others I suspect your issue is a run-away app using too much WiFi Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_5: One of the biggest battery saving things you could do is to disable WiFi only when the screen is locked such as the device being in your pocket. I'm sure there are *many* ways of going about this, but this is the easiest and most reliable method that I know of. With this you should be able to save a *lot* of battery! If you just follow the instructions I've provided below, you should have satisfying results in just a few minutes! --- 1. Download **[Tasker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.dinglisch.android.taskerm)** from the **Play Store.** 2. Open **Tasker** and click the `+` button. Now click **Event** → **Display** → **Display Off.** 3. Click the **gear** (back button) in the **top left corner.** A pop up menu will appear. Select **New Task** and name it `Display Off`. 4. Tap `+` → **Net** → **WiFi** and make sure the box that says **Set** is set to `Off`. 5. Click the gear (back) twice so that you end up on the **Profiles** screen. 6. Now click `+` again, then **Event** → **Display** → **Display On.** 7. Tap the gear (back) and then select **New Task**. Name it something along the lines of `Display On`. 8. Click `+` → **Net** → **WiFi** and change **Set** to `On`. Now exit back to the **Profiles** tab. You should now have both **Display Off** and **Display On.** 9. In the **Profiles** tab to the right of your conditions, there are **On/ Off** toggles. Turn both of these to `Off` and then back to `On`. 10. Simply exit out of **Tasker** and you're done! --- Good luck and I hope this helps you! Upvotes: 0
2013/02/19
499
2,082
<issue_start>username_0: **The background:** I recently learned about OTG USB cables that can be used to connect peripherals to Android devices. I had this idea of using an android device with a usb barcode reader connected (which basically acts like a keyboard) and an in-house developed app, for stock management in a warehouse. The first step was to buy the OTG cable. The second was to start testing peripherals connected our existing Android devices. **The problem:** When I connect any USB device to a Huawei Y201 Pro (4.0), there is no feedback from the device. No error, no response from the input, nothing. When I connect mouse to a Galaxy S II, it recognizes the usb cable, then a cursor appears on screen and all works great. However, when I connect a keyboard (I tried around 5 so far), a notification says that the cable was connected but right after that it says that no devices are connected. **My question:** Is there something I'm missing to make this work? If not, some secondary follow up questions: What are the things I should look for in making this idea work? Is this connectivity more dependent on the Android device? OS version? Peripheral?<issue_comment>username_1: Maybe your mobile doesn't support OTG. It may also need to be connected via a powered USB hub in order to provide enough power. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can try to make your (perhaps incompatible) keyboard work using [Externel Keyboard Helper](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apedroid.hwkeyboardhelperdemo). If this works [here](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apedroid.hwkeyboardhelper) is the fully functional Pro version. I bought this app to completely reconfigure the keyboard layout of my bluetooth keyboard and to get an automatic dialog on keyboard connection to adjust the input method and the app is imho pretty useful once you get it how to deal with the configuration interface. ;-) Maybe it works for you as well and detects the input from your keyboard. You can just give it a try as its free anyway. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/19
380
1,492
<issue_start>username_0: I have been trying for some time the ICS Rom from the Team Blackout, but Im not very happy to it. I would like to go back to how my phone was when i bought it. I'd like to make a TOTAL reset. That means: * No media saved * No accounts saved * No settings saved * No apps saved * Original Android 2.3 back Basically, as it was when I unboxed it. Is this possible? If anyone could give me some instructions, I'd be very thankful. I'm not much of an expert in working with Android systems (A friend helped me "root it") and Im not sure how to proceed. Thanks<issue_comment>username_1: Maybe your mobile doesn't support OTG. It may also need to be connected via a powered USB hub in order to provide enough power. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can try to make your (perhaps incompatible) keyboard work using [Externel Keyboard Helper](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apedroid.hwkeyboardhelperdemo). If this works [here](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apedroid.hwkeyboardhelper) is the fully functional Pro version. I bought this app to completely reconfigure the keyboard layout of my bluetooth keyboard and to get an automatic dialog on keyboard connection to adjust the input method and the app is imho pretty useful once you get it how to deal with the configuration interface. ;-) Maybe it works for you as well and detects the input from your keyboard. You can just give it a try as its free anyway. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/19
550
2,246
<issue_start>username_0: According to my battery graph the phone went from 85% to 0 in an instant. I wanted to add a screenshot, but I do not have enough reputation. The last time I checked it was nearly full, and 7 hours later in the morning it was empty. At home I charged it until it showed 29 percent, but by the time I got to the office, it was 32. How can this be? How can I prevent it in the future? LG P990, Android 4.0<issue_comment>username_1: A bad battery could cause this. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: It could be a misbehaving app keeping the device awake; I have that about once a month with my *Motorola Milestone 2*. Did not figure out how to *prevent* it, but a reboot always solved it. A proposal how to "catch" it, however: There's an app called [DrainGuard](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.waldafx.DrainGuard) available on the playstore. It watches your battery consumption, and gives an alert as soon as it detects a "sudden drop". This helps to notice the "power drain" *before* the "5% alert" makes a noise and switches your phone off -- so you can either start investigating while the process is ongoing (some time left before "full drain"), or simply trigger an immediate reboot to "kick the bad guy out" when in a hurry. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: The actual capacity of a battery decreases as the battery ages through an irreversible fading process. This capacity loss occurs both with active use, correlated with charging cycles, and with inactivity through self-discharge. The device may even come with substandard batteries. However, the amount of loss is linear with time and accelerates with increasing temperature. Smartphones do not typically employ sophisticated techniques for estimating the usable capacity with the basic solution basing on simple charge cycle estimation and then using an offline calibrated lookup table to find the state of charge or battery level given the charge cycle. SOC estimation in modern smartphones cannot capture the usable capacity of the battery, and thus have unreliable SOC estimation. This inaccuracy manifests as sudden jumps in the battery level, and can result in unexpected shutdown of the device. Upvotes: 1
2013/02/19
308
1,267
<issue_start>username_0: I hope someone can help rather than the normal suggestion of rebuild. I have Samsung Note 1 with Android 4.0.4. This is the most up to date version available (UK - O2 network) Cut or copy hangs the application. This is the same across all apps. Any suggestions as its almost impossible to use without it as I use it as my main business tool.<issue_comment>username_1: The Samsung Note stores everything from the clipboard. I would imagine that months of old clipboard items may cause a problem eventually. You might try to double-tap a text field, select Clipboard and delete old clipboard entries from there. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: There is a [clipboard-related Samsung firmware bug](http://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=35732) which is known at least since July 2012 and happens on multiple Samsung devices with Android 4.0.x (ICS). It is reported to be fixed in Jelly Bean updates, but they may not be available for all devices which have this problem. Other solutions discussed in the bug comments, such as removing everything from the `/data/clipboard` directory, require a rooted phone. The bug is also not present in custom ROMs which are not based on Samsung TouchWiz (such as CyanogenMod). Upvotes: 1
2013/02/19
295
1,087
<issue_start>username_0: I check my phone (Android) more than I study. Is there any program or way to lock yourself out of your phone for a certain amount of time until you complete a goal? At the same time it should allow phone calls to come through.<issue_comment>username_1: Hand it to a roommate? Or trade phones with a study partner? Reminds me of the old "how do I stop myself from using my credit cards" scenario: <http://moneyning.com/credit-cards/freeze-your-credit-cards-to-ice-your-spending/> Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: There a couple of apps that allow this in each their way: * [App blocker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=cz.mobilesoft.appblock) - Let's you set up daily intervals between 1 to 3 hours where your phone is blocked from usage. I believe you can set it up to allow calls. * [Stay Focused](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.stayfocused) - Which let's you block individual apps, either on set intervals during the day or by allowing a total usage time per day for apps. Hope these covers your question. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/20
214
838
<issue_start>username_0: The tablet has a wifi, a microphone and a speaker. It would be ideal to make calls with, but Viber states it is incompatible. Is there any way around this?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes. Install [Viber](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.viber.voip&hl=en) on tablet. Once it asks for phone number give any cell phone number where you can receive the confirmation code from Viber service. Try to activate the account. Once you receive the activation code on the cell.. put the same activation code on the tablet and you are good to receive calls on the same device. Make sure you don't activate this Viber cellphone number on any other device. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: It just can't be done. Similarly WhatsApp too doesn't work on non GSM devices. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]
2013/02/20
467
1,957
<issue_start>username_0: A week or two ago my battery life indicator for my Motorolla Atrix 4G has ceased to working properly. The indicator indicates the battery drains ridiculous fast and it's inaccurate. I'll fully charge it and after unplugging it for an hour or so, the indicator is down to 1%. It remains at 1%, though, for up to a day. Taking steps to avoid draining my battery is a separate discussion that doesn't have to do with this topic. I specifically need to know what I should do about an inaccurate battery life indicator. Is there a way to reset the indicator? Should I contact Motorolla or is this a software issue? Thanks in advance! Edit: The first thing I tried was replacing the battery with a new one. This did nothing to resolve the problem.<issue_comment>username_1: To reset the battery stats you just need to go to *Recovery* and *Wipe battery stats*. Its best if you do this with your battery fully charged. Its wise to leave the phone an extra 10-20 minutes when wiping stats to ensure the battery is fully charged. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: Did you install some program right before it happened? Did you open a program, made changes, saved, and this happened? Are you using a custom kernel or ROM? If it's a new program, try to uninstall it first and check the results. If you didn't install anything BUT used a program before the battery meter broke, then try clearing the data and cache of that program to set it to defaults. If the above did not work then you might need to report the kernel to it's respective developer or try to flash another kernel/ROM (if using a custom kernel/ROM), and if not. A factory reset might fix your problem like what Izzy said. I recommend using Titanium Backup to backup your files because its easy to restore afterwards. If it still did not help and you get a fast battery drain, then it is most likely a hardware problem, eg. power IC might be shorted Upvotes: 1
2013/02/20
1,475
5,793
<issue_start>username_0: I want to split my SD cart in 2 partitions: one for android, and one containing a bootable OS used from computers through USB or by inserting in card readers. I can't access the second partition from USB! Specs: * Phone: motorola defy+ * System: CynogenMod 10 (android 4.1.2) * SD Card layout: 1. Primary FAT32, 1Gb, intended for android only (apps data) 2. Primary EXT4, 15Gb, invisible from android intended for computers (bootable linux system) Current status: * Everything works with a laptop SD card reader: I can mount and browse both FAT32 and EXT4 partiations. I can boot from the SD card and boot to the linux I installed on the ext partition. * From the phone: android can mount and access the FAT32 partition, the ext4 partition is invisible just like I want. * Problem from USB: When accessing the card in the phone from a computer through USB (android is configured as USB mass storage device), I can only access the FAT32 partition. My question: Android seems to be exposing only the first partition as a block device through USB. Therefore I can't access the second partition, or even see it with partitioning tools. Obviously, booting from it also doesn't work. Can I make Android to expose the full SD card as a block device through USB, so that all partitions are visible from a computer and I can boot on it. Any help or pointers appreciated, thanks!<issue_comment>username_1: You may only be able to do it via it's `Recovery` by using the `Mount USB Storage` function. It is present in all custom recoveries. The plausible reason that you cannot access the EXT4 partition in android is because it might be mounted and used by Cyanogenmod. You might be able to forcefully unmount the EXT4 in the `Recovery` on the `Mount` menu and unchecking the corresponding mount, if the kernel supports it. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You can try to use the MBRFAT hack — the first sector which looks both like a FAT boot sector and a MBR partition table. Such images can be created by the [makebootfat](http://advancemame.sourceforge.net/doc-makebootfat.html) utility. I did not try to do this actually, but in theory you should do the following: 1. Create a `files` directory which should contain files to be placed into the FAT32 filesystem image (it could just be empty). 2. Locate the following files: * `mbrfat.bin` — should be contained in the `makebootfat` package; * `ldlinux.sys` and `ldlinux.bss` — come from the [Syslinux 3.x](https://www.kernel.org/pub/linux/utils/boot/syslinux/3.xx/) package (use a 3.x version, I'm not sure that `makebootfat` is compatible with more recent versions). 3. Create a file for the FAT32 filesystem image with the desired size of the FAT32 part: ``` dd if=/dev/zero of=fat.img bs=1M count=1024 ``` 4. Create the FAT32 filesystem image with MBRFAT: ``` makebootfat -o fat.img -m mbrfat.bin -b ldlinux.bss -c ldlinux.sys -F -Y -v files/ ``` (Note that placing `ldlinux.sys` in the `files/` directory does not work — it must be copied with the `-c` option.) 5. Put your card in the phone and attach it to your computes as UMS (it you work with a card reader, it would be hard for you to mount nested partitions). 6. Write the created image to the whole disk device exposed by your phone: ``` dd if=fat.img of=/dev/sdX bs=1M ``` 7. Create your additional partitions on the same device that you have written the image to. If you want to place the bootloader on the EXT4 partition instead of using SYSLINUX on the FAT32 partition, mark your EXT4 partition active and remove the active flag from the FAT32 partition. 8. Make a backup copy of the MBR+FAT sector: ``` dd if=/dev/sdX of=mbr_fat_backup.bin bs=512 count=1 ``` 9. Install Linux on the EXT4 partition, being very careful to avoid installing the bootloader to the MBR of the disk. Some installers do not support installing the bootloader into the partition boot sectors; in this case either skip the bootloader installation and install it manually later, or (if skipping is also not possible) restore the MBR+FAT sector from the backup after installation, then install the bootloader into the partition boot sector. Or you may configure SYSLINUX on the FAT32 partition as your bootloader (for this you will need to copy the kernel and initramfs image to the FAT32 partition). This configuration would work as follows: * Android will see the outer partition contents just as a FAT32 partition, although with the number of sectors in the filesystem smaller than the partition size. The Linux kernel on the Android device will not try to parse the nested partition table, therefore the nested EXT4 partition will not be accessible from there. * When Android exposes the partition contents as an USB mass storage device, the OS on the host computer will parse the sector 0 of the exposed device as an MBR partition table, and will see multiple partitions there. For the FAT32 partition it will use another sector as the boot sector containing the FAT32 BPB; this copy of BPB will contain a smaller value in the “number of reserved sectors” field, so that the FAT and data clusters will end up in the same physical sectors as when using the BPB in sector 0 of the outer partition. The problem with this config is that accessing the EXT4 partition when using the card in a card reader will not be possible, unless you use utilities like `kpartx` to expose nested partitions. Booting when using a card reader could work if you create another partition on the card directly and install some bootloader there (with a separate copy of kernel and initramfs images); note that this partition will not be accessible when using the phone. In addition, `mbrfat.bin` is somewhat buggy, and some computers fail to boot when using it. Upvotes: 2
2013/02/20
349
1,461
<issue_start>username_0: I have Galaxy Tab 7.7 tablet running Android 3.2. Recently, I'm having connection problems to my home Wifi router. The device keeps scanning for Wifi access points for long periods. My home Wifi router is shown with a "Not in range" message next to it in the Wifi settings screen. However, sometimes after long period of time, the device randomly connects to the Wifi router. It is worth mentioning that during the scanning mode the device does not detect any Wifi access point even thought where I live there are many Wifi access points (over 8 access points). What is the solution to my problem?<issue_comment>username_1: The solution turns out very trivial and surprising. It shows and proves practically that the behavior of complex software systems is unpredictable. The solution: Go to Mobile network settings and disable Use packet data. Next, enable Wifi and then go back and enable Use packet data. Magically, all my problems disappeared after I applied described steps. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I was having the same problem, but I can connect easily at home (automatic) but my problem was at work. I just changed some of the settings. Turned connections optimizer (yesterday in order to connect I had to turn it off) and reset wi-fi timer for 7a-5p. We'll see how that works once I get home. The settings have been on set for approx. 10 min and I haven't lost the signal. Decreased but not lost. Upvotes: -1
2013/02/20
593
2,157
<issue_start>username_0: I do not see them in the /clockworkmod folder when I connect my device to my PC. I tried using adb pull but adb does not show any devices when the device is in recovery mode (only if it's booted). Version is 4.2.1; ROM Cyanogen. Device is MAKO, and my PC is running Windows 7. The drivers for the device have already been added/installed from the android-sdk extras folder. The folders I see when I connect the device to win7 are different than those I see when I browse on the device itself. This issue might pertain to [the way 4.2.1/4.2.2 creates folders](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/14005176/adb-not-recognising-nexus-4) (something about multi-user).<issue_comment>username_1: The ROM Manager app has an option in the Manage and Restore Backups to Download Backups. You might want to try using it to create backups and download those backups to your computer. (Click image to enlarge) [![IMG: ](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmtiCl.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VmtiC.png) Choose Download Backups and you will see: [![IMG: ](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqAsFl.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xqAsF.png) Provided your phone and your computer are logged into the same network you can point your browser to the address shown on the screen and choose which of the backups you would like to transfer to your computer. It will take a while depending on the size of the backup. This may be a feature of the Pro Version but the Pro version is worth every penny. Good Luck. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I'm not 100% sure if the following will solve your Problems, but I had similar problems with my Nexus 4 (mako) First up: The Backups will probably be stored in "/data/media/clockworkmod" you probably won't find them somewhere else. Second Problem: I had the same Problem, with not getting ADB-Access in Recovery Mode what I did was (Windows) going to Device Manager and selected "ADB Composite Interface" for the unknown device. Automatic driver searching did not succeed. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: You can use adb for copy backups: ``` adb pull /mnt/shell/emulated/clockworkmod/ ``` Upvotes: 2
2013/02/20
1,939
7,469
<issue_start>username_0: I have a Nexus 7 Android device with 4.2.2 and Chrome browser. **How can one perform a deep refresh of a web page - analogue of `Ctrl+F5` hotkey on desktops?** Please, notice that the device does not have a menu button. According to the only [related question I've found here](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/9639/force-refresh-of-a-webpage-on-default-browser), the solution is to clear browser cache completely. I'd prefer more convenient and elegant solution.<issue_comment>username_1: To the left of the web address window you are visiting is a nearly circular arrow. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: In the menu of the webpage, ask for the desktop version of the website. It will pull data from the server and the page will reload. After that, you can come back for the mobile version once again. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Pull down on a page to reload it, it comes incorporated to Chrome for smartphones. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: **Bypassing per site cache:** This needs a simple javascript code to be run in the address bar for bypassing the cache and fetch contents from the server instead of the browser cache. According to [this MDN page on Force reloading the current page from the server](https://developer.mozilla.org/en-US/docs/Web/API/window.location#Example_.232.3A_Force_reloading_the_current_page_from_the_server), ``` javascript:location.reload(true) ``` Enter the above code in the browser address bar and hit Enter key. This will fetch all the contents from the server instead of picking the elements cached in your browser(thus bypassing the browser cache). **Bypass Cache data for all websites(Global cache)** The above javascript work only for a specific website which you have currently opened. To clear all the website cache use the global browser cache data. You find this under, ``` Settings > Privacy > CLEAR BROWSING DATA ``` Select the "Cache" Checkbox (and other options like Browser data, Cookies, Password etc if you want) and select "Clear". ***Note:*** *While `Ctrl`+`F5` will cause the browser to throw out the cache and request new contents from the server, the server may ignore the `no-cache` header and serve a server-side cached page. Thus, even `Ctrl`+`F5` may return an old version of the page if the server ignores the no-cache header.* **Incognito Mode:** Browsing through incognito mode disables history and cache. So you can visit any site through incognito mode to request fresh content everytime. --- For more interesting discussion on the what does `Ctrl`+`F5` or force refresh does, Read this SO post, [What requests do browsers' “F5” and “Ctrl + F5” refreshes generate?](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/385367/what-requests-do-browsers-f5-and-ctrl-f5-refreshes-generate) Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_5: On my Samsung tablet browsing with Chrome, type this in the address bar: ``` javascript:location.reload(true) ``` That should trigger a hard reload using Javascript. Now I do not have to wait for days to observe results of a change of code I made. A new problem then is that typing on a tablet is not my favorite thing to do. Instead of typing the above command I also tried to change to desktop mode and then back. That did not deep refresh. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: I did not get any of these solutions to work. However, I have found a working solution. **First, find out the CSS URL. In my case, it looked like this:** ``` /min/assets/css/style.min.css ``` **Write it in the address field, but also add a GET variable to it:** ``` /min/assets/css/style.min.css?hello ``` Hopefully, the GET variable is accepted. Because it's a new URL, it forces the CSS to reload. Now, go back to the site and the CSS should have been reloaded. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_7: I need a way to clear the current cache or all cache from the same origin domain via JavaScript, so I can make sure the update rollout of my web app arrives without errors. I also had no success on temporarily changing the cache meta tags in the HTML header. Only on desktop and not automatable: Ctrl + R. Used to work to force reload to clear the cache. Now you have to press Ctrl + Shift + R or Shift + F5. I wrote my own workaround `forceReload()` function that works on Windows Chrome, Chrome for Android, and Chromium: ``` window.forceReload = function() { if (!window.fetch) return document.location.reload(true); var els = document.getElementsByTagName("*"); for(var i = 0 ; i < els.length ; i++){ var src = ""; if (els[i].tagName == "A") continue; if (!src && els[i].src) src = els[i].getAttribute("src"); if (!src && els[i].href) src = els[i].getAttribute("href"); if (!src) continue; fetch(src, {cache: "reload"}); } return document.location.reload(true); }; ``` This function will only reload contents that have been loaded on the current page. You can trigger it once on each of your clients after new updates are on the server, or simply add a working refresh button on your app. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_8: On the left side of the URL, there is an info icon (i) or a lock icon. Click the icon and then [web site configuration]. You will find a trash icon to clear the cache of the current site, and alternatively a "restore preferences" button. Working on Chrome for Android v71. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_9: I use a **New Incognito Tab**. It works on other devices and browsers, as well. It avoids the local cache normally. Notice that private sessions can still be considered concurrent, so you may have to close all incognito tabs to clear their cache. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_10: ##### Follow this steps to connect your smartphone to your computer: 1. Open the **Developer Options** screen on your Android. See [Configure On-Device Developer Options](https://developer.android.com/studio/debug/dev-options). 2. Select **Enable USB Debugging**. 3. On your computer, open Chrome. 4. Go to `chrome://inspect#devices`. 5. Make sure that the **Discover USB devices** checkbox is enabled. 6. Connect your Android device directly to your development machine using a USB cable. The first time you do this, you usually see that DevTools has detected an offline device. If you see the model name of your Android device, then DevTools has successfully established the connection to your device. 7. If your device is showing up as **Offline**, accept the **Allow USB Debugging** permission prompt on your Android device. (Copied from here [here](https://developer.chrome.com/docs/devtools/remote-debugging/)) --- ##### Now follow this steps to make `Ctrl` + `F5` reload: 1. On your smartphone open Chrome and go to your desired web site. 2. In DevTools tab on your computer click on **inspect** below the web site url. 3. In opened windows (where you can see the mobile screen) press `Ctrl` + `F5`. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_11: Another option: install a full keyboard app (e.g. <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.pocketworkstation.pckeyboard> ), tap the address bar to open the keyboard, then press shift+F5 Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_12: I usually use a version parameter in the css/js url loaded, since every revisitor might have some problems. Found this solution in another discussion, but I don't know the url. It worked fine for me :-) Upvotes: 0
2013/02/20
462
1,793
<issue_start>username_0: Please tell me how to transfer my data from internal storage to the external SD Card please.... I'm ready to throw this stupid phone out the window.<issue_comment>username_1: If your goal is to transfer data from the internal SDCard to the external, you can do so in several ways: * use a file explorer directly on the device ([ES File Explorer File Manager](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.estrongs.android.pop) is a good choice for this) * attach your device to your computer via USB, and both sdcards should become accessible. Use your favorite file explorer on your PC then to copy/move the files If, on the other side, you are talking about the internal "phone storage": without root access to your device, your possibilities are pretty limited... Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: There are a lot of [LG Optimus devices](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LG_Optimus) and some of them don't have SD Card slot (E973 for example). If that is your problem then you can try attaching external SD Card reader to your device using [USB OTG to USB adapter](https://www.google.com/search?q=USB+OTG+to+USB+adapter&tbm=isch). Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I'm going to assume the following: * You're running the latest Android version (4.1.2). * You want to transfer media (photos/videos/music). Most Android devices come with a file manager app installed on the device. Take a look at all your applications (press the grid button on the homescreen) and see if you have one (this can be something such as "My Files", "Files", or "File Manager"). If you happen to have one, open it. 1. Navigate to the media on internal storage. 2. Do a long press on the item/folder that you wish to move. 3. Select the destination on the SD card. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/21
458
1,825
<issue_start>username_0: I left my Samsung Galaxy S1 charging overnight plugged into my computer (as I usually do) and when I came to use it in the morning, it was turned off (to my surprise). When I turned it on, it goes into a constant reboot cycle, where it turns on, gets to the home screen and then about half a minute after, just reboots itself again. I am able to get into recovery mode and download mode and I can keep it stable in safe mode - but have limited access to apps. My questions are: (a) does anyone know what would have caused this? (b) what can I do to stop it?! without the obvious factory reset? (c) I originally thought it was a battery problem but now that I can sustain it in recovery and safe mode, am I right in saying that the battery is fine and its most probably a software or app malfunction?<issue_comment>username_1: Does your sdcard have multiple partitions? Most recoveries have built-in repair function to scan corruptions in sdcards which prevents your phone from booting properly, it is under Mount -> Repair if you are using CWM. If it did not help, try removing your sdcard temporarily to check if it boots up properly. If it successfully boots then you need to reformat your sdcard, make sure to backup first. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: As you stated you can go to *safe mode* fine, the conclusion is clear: One of your apps is causing this issue. If you can remember what you installed lately, immediately before the trouble started, that's the most likely candidate. You can use *safe mode* to uninstall this malfunctioning app -- that's what's *safe mode* is for. **To your a-b-c:** a) see above: a mal-functioning app is the most likely candidate. b) again see above: boot to *safe mode*, and uninstall the evil-doer c) yes, absolutely. Upvotes: 1
2013/02/21
389
1,533
<issue_start>username_0: So the phone can only boot to "ClockworkMod Recovery" due to unknown reason. Is there a way to transfer files between my phone's internal memory and my computer? There is no SD card slot on the phone. I don't have any other ROM in my phone which means I can't flash anything but the official ROM (through download mode) which I think will remove all the files.<issue_comment>username_1: *This suggestion assumes familiarity with connecting to the phone via ADB* I had a similar situation on my previous phone. I was able to pull the important stuff over ADB when the phone was in recovery. In my case I had to mount some of the filesystems to access everything I wanted to retrieve. I'm not sure if it is dependent on the phone whether the ADB service is available in recovery. On mine it was available in both recovery and download mode. If ADB on your computer recognizes and can connect to your phone you should be able to retrieve and save any files you need. If you aren't familiar with ADB this is a good place to start: <http://www.xda-developers.com/android/all-in-one-guide-to-adb/> If you need any help with it let me know, ADB is a whole other topic so keeping it simple here. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: On my CWM I have "mount USB storage" option under the menu "mounts and storage". Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: This video shows you how to do it with links to programs you need to download. <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NaK5OxUeDKM> Upvotes: -1
2013/02/21
272
1,017
<issue_start>username_0: I have a rooted Nexus 4 (totally stock, except for CWM recovery). Yesterday I updated it to the 4.2.2 OTA. Today I discovered that I can't take a screenshot. Holding power + volume down should work, but when I try it the volume gets turned down or the pop-up for power off/airplane mode appears. Is the timing for taking a screenshot really finicky? Is this a known issue in 4.2.2? (I've had the phone for less than two weeks, so I'm not sure if I tried to take a screenshot in 4.2.1).<issue_comment>username_1: As it turns out, the timing is just that finicky. Both buttons need to be pressed & held at exactly the same time to take a screenshot. I was used to a mod on my previous phone that had more relaxed timings so you could hold power and then hit volume down to take a screenshot. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I have Nexus 4 with OTA 4.2.2; screenshot works when pressing and holding for 3 seconds the `power` and `volume down` button together. Upvotes: 1
2013/02/21
812
3,297
<issue_start>username_0: I would like to stop receiving new message notifications from a certain Whatsapp group. Is it possible? **Clarifications:** * I don't want to leave the group. * I don't want to turn off all Whatsapp notifications. There are other groups from which I still want to get notifications. * I don't want to just mute the notification sound. What I want is to get rid of the group's notifications entirely.<issue_comment>username_1: The only thing you can do is to go into the Whatsapp group you want to mute. Then select `Menu` > `Mute` > `1 Year` and uncheck `Show notifications`. Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: In the Group Info page, go to "Custom Notification", then change it to disable sound, and disable Alert. maybe that will help? Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: In essence you're asking about how to accomplish something with a specific piece of software that isn't a part of the native functions in that piece of software. It's like asking "how do I log into ICQ with Skype" -- well, it's not going to happen unless you can modify Skype to begin with. Unless Whatsapp is open source and you can hire a developer to write the function you need for you, or there is other software available for accessing the Whatsapp network where this functionality exists or can be added, you're not going to solve this no matter how high of a bounty you set on it. The most pragmatic and realistic approach is to bug the Whatsapp developers about this until they add the function you want to the software (or stop forcing notifications). Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: **In iPhone**, you can solve the problem. Open group conversation. Click on group icon, then custom notification change for custom notification on. Change to sound silent and no vibration. **In Android**, you can't solve the problem; only by turn off all notifications. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: Unfortunately there is no solution where you disable notifications from one group and not the other. However, if your question was "I want to get notifications only for individual messages and not group messages" (which was my situation that drove me to this page), here is an answer that may be helpful for other people browsing this page: * Disable all WhatsApp notifications from Settings->Apps->WhatsApp. * Open WhatsApp and enable *popup notifications* for message notifications (not group notifications). Now, messages from individuals will appear as popup messages on your phone, so you sure won't miss them. Other than this, WhatsApp won't bug you for anything else, including notifications of group messages. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: Since WhatsApp version 2.11.399 and above for Android you can disable notifications when group is muted. Follow this: * Open your group which you wanna mute. * Now go in 'Options' > 'Mute'. * A dialog box will pop up and as of WhatsApp version 2.11.399 select the max period available to mute your group which is '**1 Year**'. * **Untick** the 'Show Notifications' checkbox. Then click 'OK'. You won't receive any notifications now from this group on your status bar. (Click image to enlarge) [![IMG: This is how it looks like](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bLLf4.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bLLf4.png) Upvotes: 5
2013/02/21
809
2,952
<issue_start>username_0: ``` > adb shell sh-4.1$ su Permission denied ``` I have rooted my phone successfully. I know this because I'm able to install apps on SD card and I have a program called [SD Maid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.thedarken.sdm&hl=en) that is able to operate with root permissions.<issue_comment>username_1: From [here](https://stackoverflow.com/a/15201460): You might need to activate adb root from the developer settings menu. If you run adb root from the cmd line you can get: root access is disabled by system setting - enable in settings -> development options root access is disabled by system setting - enable in settings -> development options Once you activate the root option (ADB only or Apps and ADB) adb will restart and you will be able to use root from the cmd line. Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: There is an app on Google Play called *[ADBD Insecure by Chainfire](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.chainfire.adbd&hl=en)*. This app lets you run adbd in root mode if your device is rooted when running the devices Stock ROM. I just recently found out about this app. The version on Google Play is not Free, but there is a free version available. The link to the free version is linked in the description of the application in Google Play. What is great about this app, it works with Stock ROMs that have been rooted. If you are using a custom kernel, or a custom ROM, you probably won't need this application. But if you are still using a stock rom, just rooted, then you may want to get this application for your device. > > adbd Insecure lets you run adbd in root mode if your device is rooted. > (Note that if you are running a custom kernel, it is likely that it already implements this functionality) > > > If you are running a stock (made by the phone manufacturer) kernel on your device, chances are adbd is running in "secure" mode, even if you are rooted. This app lets you run adbd in "insecure" mode, which gives you root access in "adb shell", allows access to system files and directories through "adb push/pull", and lets you run the "adb remount" command to make your /system partition writable. > > > ![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QWDZl.png) > > > Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Nowadays [Magisk](https://forum.xda-developers.com/apps/magisk/official-magisk-v7-universal-systemless-t3473445) is commonly used for rooting. I've found that on my Oneplus 5 (Oxygen OS, Nougat) it was sufficient to go to Magisk Manager app, open superuser permissions screen and toggle Shell (com.android.shell) to resolve the adb su permission denied problem. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Enable root access for adb from the developer settings menu. Then connect your usb cable and type: ``` adb root ``` It should return ``` restarting adbd as root ``` Now relaunch the shell ``` adb shell ``` Upvotes: 2
2013/02/21
588
1,683
<issue_start>username_0: Is it possible to check using shell whether or not Cyanogenmod is installed on a device? In other words, something like `uname -a` (which tells the system Linux version and architecture). Can the version be determined as well?<issue_comment>username_1: I tried to do `uname -a` on my CM10.1 (Samsung Galaxy S2) on the built-in Terminal app. It returns: > > Linux localhost 3.0.31-CM-g17c7b6e #1 SMP PREEMPT Tue Feb 19 01:11:17 > PST 2013 armv71 GNU/Linux > > > Kernel version: `3.0.31-CM-g17c7b6e` SMP: `Symmetric Multi-Processor support` PREEMPT: `kernel preemption is enabled` Kernel date: `Tue Feb 19 01:11:17 PST 2013` Processor: `armv71` Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Another way is to simply go to *Settings→About phone*, where you should see (depending on your CyanogenMod version) an item "CyanogenMod updates", and (with all CM versions) "CyanogenMod-Version": ![About Phone: CM Stats and Kernel version](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AcP6T.png) ![About phone: CM version](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mDK1y.jpg) ![About phone: CM version (German)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vQ4Sx.png) Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: In my CM12, I can do: ``` adb shell getprop | grep -i cyanogenmod ``` and the result it shows is: ``` [ro.build.host]: [cyanogenmod] [ro.cmlegal.url]: [https://www.cyanogenmod.org/docs/privacy] [ro.error.receiver.system.apps]: [org.cyanogenmod.bugreport] [ro.rommanager.developerid]: [cyanogenmod] ``` If you don't see `cyanogenmod` anywhere then either `build.prop` is deliberately tweaked to not display CM anywhere, or the device isn't running Cyanogenmod at all. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/21
385
1,371
<issue_start>username_0: Does anyone have a solution for streaming pc screen content to an Android device with 1:1 pixel ratio? I want to use it to display graphical work directly on the device, and possible for the future to produce quick interactive prototypes. There is an application for iOS called [LiveView](https://itunes.apple.com/ca/app/liveview/id301069270?mt=8) which lets you bring up a container on your Mac which streams the content of the container straight to your iOS device. I'm wondering if anyone knows of any solution for Android that does this?<issue_comment>username_1: There is the [SplashTop](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.splashtop.remote.pad.v2) Desktop Streaming Application. The app is free, but has some in-app purchases for more features. They also have a few [premium versions available](https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=Splashtop). Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: <http://betanews.com/2012/01/05/turn-you-android-into-a-second-pc-monitor/> try this. hope it will help you, cheers Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: There is screen stream for Android that seems to do what you are asking. It streams live the display of the device and has many options. There is a trial version here: <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mobzapp.screenstream.trial> Upvotes: 0
2013/02/22
413
1,623
<issue_start>username_0: I'm unable to connect my phone to VPN, it always say "unsuccessful". I deleted the profile and created it again but it didn't help. What is wrong with it?<issue_comment>username_1: The only surefire fix I can suggest is factory reset. But I know it should be your last resort so maybe it can also be fixed by resetting the settings to defaults, without losing data. This method sometimes work with broken wifi, issues with force close, some lagging issue and some others. **First**, if you have [Titanium Backup](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.keramidas.TitaniumBackup&hl=en) or other similar apps, backup your system data (Settings, ApplicationSettings, Settings Storage) because you will be wiping it clean. **2nd**, Go to Settings -> Applications -> All, and scroll down until you find `Settings`. Select it, now you will see some info, scroll down until so see `Clear data`. Note that clearing data will set your Wifi, Wallpaper, Sound, Network, but not your password and google login, to defaults. Now after clearing Settings, go back to Applications -> All, and check if you also have `VPNservice`, and `Network Provider` there, clear its data too to be sure. Try to login your VPN now, it should probably work. If not, use whatever last resort you have. But remember to backup first :P Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: you might try out 3rd party softwares like hot spot shield [Hot spot shield](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=hotspotshield.android.vpn) [Flash VPN](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.flash.VPN_Free) Upvotes: -1
2013/02/22
432
1,717
<issue_start>username_0: I keep getting spam calls from a number every night at midnight. I've blocked it, but now it just goes to voicemail and I have to delete the voice messages every morning. It's annoying. Is there an option to block it from leaving voice messages, or just automatically answer then hang up? I haven't found one in Android itself (my phone has ICS). I've also tried [Mr. Number](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mrnumber.blocker), which I thought would do this, but it doesn't. **It does work, see update below**. I've also talked to my carrier about it, but apparently I'd have to add "smart number blocking" or something to my plan for about $5 a month. If possible, I'd rather just get an app answer & hang up than have another fee to pay. **Delayed Update**: I followed the directions eldarerathis provided below for Mr. Number and it does what I was trying to do; I must have just done something wrong before. The phone will still ring for a few seconds though, so it may be best to silence it if the call comes at a consistent, inconvenient time like it does for me.<issue_comment>username_1: The free App call control works pretty good. You can have a number blocked and set up so it picks it up and hangs up. It doesn't let them leave a message and your phone don't ring. However If you go where you don't have service it will still send it to voicemail, but works great otherwise. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Not for Ice Cream Sandwich, but in Marshmallow, the stock call blocking also deletes voicemail. Phone->Menu->Settings->"Call Blocking" > > Calls from these numbers will be blocked and voicemails will be automatically deleted. > > > Upvotes: 1
2013/02/22
242
946
<issue_start>username_0: I often use Instagram to add effect and frame to my photos. Then, there is a folder named instagram appearing in Gallery; but that folder won't be synced with my Google account i.e. on another Android device signed in with the same account, I don't see that folder. So my question is that how I can have it synced?<issue_comment>username_1: The free App call control works pretty good. You can have a number blocked and set up so it picks it up and hangs up. It doesn't let them leave a message and your phone don't ring. However If you go where you don't have service it will still send it to voicemail, but works great otherwise. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Not for Ice Cream Sandwich, but in Marshmallow, the stock call blocking also deletes voicemail. Phone->Menu->Settings->"Call Blocking" > > Calls from these numbers will be blocked and voicemails will be automatically deleted. > > > Upvotes: 1
2013/02/22
370
1,434
<issue_start>username_0: I want to download an mp3 from email and listen to it through the google music player. I currently do it through yahoo mail and jelly bean 4.2.2. However after downloading I have to turn off and back on phone for it to show in player. Closing the player and restarting player does not get it to recognise the newly downloaded file. There must be a better way?<issue_comment>username_1: There is. All that has to be done is having the *Media Scanner* run and update the index. Turning the device off and on again triggers this, but (as you said) is not a very convenient way. Unmounting/mounting the SD card would trigger it as well (and can be done via *Settings→Storage*) -- already a little better, but still not very user-friendly. The most easy way would be to have an app like e.g. [Rescan Media](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.addz.mediascanner) taking care for it. [Rescan SD](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.uberullu.rescansd) might be even more convenient, as it offers a widget. Just tap it, wait for the scan to finish, and your MP3 file should be visible from your music players. Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I switched to HTC one (m7) and the included HTC player updates its files automatically. It also has a nice circle round the play button saying how far into the track it currently is. Google should play catchup. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/22
701
2,543
<issue_start>username_0: I have a rooted phone. Is it possible to enable location services (GPS or network location) via ADB or Terminal Emulator?<issue_comment>username_1: On Android 6.0, To enable: * GPS: `adb shell settings put secure location_providers_allowed +gps` * Network: `adb shell settings put secure location_providers_allowed +network` To disable: * GPS: `adb shell settings put secure location_providers_allowed -gps` * Network : `adb shell settings put secure location_providers_allowed -network` On Android 11.0, To enable: * GPS: `adb shell settings put secure location_mode 3` To disable: * GPS: `adb shell settings put secure location_mode 0` Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: Android location service comes with different options: 1. High accuracy: `gps, network` * Enable: `adb shell settings put secure location_providers_allowed +gps,network` * Disable: `adb shell settings put secure location_providers_allowed -gps,network` 2. Phone only: `gps` * Enable: `adb shell settings put secure location_providers_allowed +gps` * Disable: `adb shell settings put secure location_providers_allowed -gps` 3. Battery saving: `network` * Enable: `adb shell settings put secure location_providers_allowed +network` * Disable: `adb shell settings put secure location_providers_allowed -network` Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: `location_providers_allowed` no longer works for Android 10 (API level 29). Instead, you can set the [`location_mode`](https://developer.android.com/reference/android/provider/Settings.Secure.html#LOCATION_MODE) to `LOCATION_MODE_HIGH_ACCURACY` with a value of 3: ``` adb shell settings put secure location_mode 3 ``` --- **NOTE:** Probably won't work >v29 as this is *already* deprecated as the docs on Location Mode mention: > > This constant was deprecated in API level 28. > The preferred methods for checking location mode and listening for changes are via `LocationManager#isLocationEnabled()` and `LocationManager#MODE_CHANGED_ACTION`. > > > Don't know what a programmatic way to do this through the shell will be once this constant disappears. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: * Enable: `adb shell settings put secure location_mode 3` * Disable: `adb shell settings put secure location_mode 0` See [Stack Overflow - How to enable/disable GPS location services on Android 9 via ADB commands (not rooted device)](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/60559166/how-to-enable-disable-gps-location-services-on-android-9-via-adb-commands-not-r). Upvotes: 2
2013/02/23
178
700
<issue_start>username_0: I have a Nexus 4 and I am trying to get it to work with my car computer, and for most parts via Bluetooth it works, especially for audio. I cant get the text messaging part to work, and that has to do with MAP profile for bluetooth. When I had a samsung SIII it worked, but for some reason, with this it doesnt seem to work.. I heard from someone that it may be an issue and you need to install a custom rom. Is that true? Is there any other way around this?<issue_comment>username_1: It was broken in 4.2 when Google rewrote the Bluetooth stack. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: MAP was never implemented in AOSP, the SIII only had it from Samsung tweaks. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/23
214
830
<issue_start>username_0: I had unlocked my Nexus 7 and everything was great for months. I came home from work and it was stuck in a boot loop. I somehow managed to delete the OS while trying to fix it. I have access to the Team Win Recovery Project v2.2.1 but nothing else. What's the best way to reload the OS?<issue_comment>username_1: [XDA](http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=1673) is the only place to go. They have plenty of ROMs to choose from, including stock builds for your Nexus if you want timely updates from big G. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You could also try downloading the factory image from [Google](https://developers.google.com/android/nexus/images). There are instructions with how to use it on that site too. This will completely wipe your device including your files. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/23
362
1,295
<issue_start>username_0: Yesterday I bought a brand new samsung galaxy s3. WHen I hold home button and lock button, it doesnt shot the screen. how to fix it?<issue_comment>username_1: You have to place your palm on the side of the screen and cross it to the other side. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: 1. Hold `Volume Down` button and `Lock` button! You can't take screenshots like on Android 2+. 2. Using hand motion feature - For this enable Palm Swipe to Capture feature and swipe your hands above the phone to take a screenshot 3. Using swipe option For reference look at the guide on [How to take screenshot on Samsung Galaxy S3 Mini](http://howtotakescreenshot.net/samsung-galaxy-s3-mini/) Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: If you are using stovk ROM then you can try this. From HOME 1. Click the MENU button and select SETTINGS. 2. Select MOTION. 3. Under “Hand Motion” settings, check “Palm swipe to Capture” checkbox. just swipe your palm horizontally(L-->R/R-->L) over your screen it will capture a screen shot. **OR** HOLD down the `POWER` button and the `HOME` button at the same time. (Remember timing is imporatant) Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: The problem solved. it would meant to be "Home" + "Back" + "Power". Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]
2013/02/23
252
915
<issue_start>username_0: A few months back I started developing an app that read incoming sms messages and saved them in a db. A few days ago I went to revisit the app and had a quick look in the db where I discovered the app was still recording my texts!?! I can't find any mention of my app running on the android apps option under settings or in advanced task killer. How can I find out if it's running or not? It's bizarre!<issue_comment>username_1: I had a similar incidence, in my case i left a service open. Please check if any service related, is open ? To check you can use, [This link from stackoverflow](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/5523718/how-to-check-all-the-running-services-in-android) Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: It seems I don't fully understand how broadcast receivers work. <https://stackoverflow.com/questions/15040651/is-my-app-still-running> Upvotes: 0
2013/02/23
576
2,141
<issue_start>username_0: is there any way to disable completely the autocompletion (guess it's called SwiftKey) ? Especially with the Gmail/Email apps the 'intelligent' autocompletion ends up slowing me down! Many thanks in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: [SwiftKey](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.touchtype.swiftkey) simply is a keyboard app. You might want to check in *Settings→Language & Input→Keyboards and Input methods* which keyboard is active/checked, and check its configuration. Many keyboard apps allow to turn off autocorrection: so does the default keyboard on my *Wildfire* (running CM 9.1/Android 4.0.4). If your keyboard does not support this, you might want to check for an alternative. [Hacker's Keyboard](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.pocketworkstation.pckeyboard) is a good choice here (I use it on my tablet), and for sure allows to turn off autocorrection (I use it this way). You still get the word recommendations and can tap words for auto-complete -- but nothing gets replaced anymore without your explicite consense. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Swiftkey allows for disabling of the auto-correct when a physical keyboard is being used. To Disable Auto-correct during physical keyboard use: 1. Open Swiftkey's settings 1. Open the Swiftkey app from your App Launcher 2. Long press on the Swiftkey Logo/123 button when the Swiftkey keyboard is up 2. Go To `Advanced` 3. Scroll to the bottom 4. Check the option for `Physical keyboard space behavior` which will "Disable autocomplete for physical keyboards. I just checked on my Droid 3, which has a physical keyboard, and it disabled it. This was checked using Swiftkey version `4.0.0.106`. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: To Disable Auto-correct in Swift 3 keyboard in ICS: 1. Go to `Settings` and then in `Language & Input` 2. Go To `Swift 3 Setting` 3. Then Go To `Advanced` 4. Now in `Spacebar will` select `always insert a space`. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: As of SwiftKey 6: 1. Open SwiftKey 2. Go to Typing -> Voice and other Input 3. Toggle the "Autocorrect" option Upvotes: 0
2013/02/23
344
1,422
<issue_start>username_0: In the messaging application it says who is the sender of each message, but it doesn't say the phone number the message was from. From each thread I can get to the corresponding contact, but some contacts have several numbers and I don't know how to tell which number the message was from. I can get the message details, but again only the name of the contact is listed, and not the number. I am running ICS on a Galaxy S2 device.<issue_comment>username_1: If you don't hesitate to use a third-party messaging app, then simply install [Go SMS Pro](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jb.gosms&hl=en), it shows the exact sender's number below her/his name on top of the thread. I'm not aware of any other messaging app that also does this, but this one has many nice features along with that one. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: In my LG optimus one running gingerbread, I can open a message thread and long press on an message. This pops up a list of options and if I press 'view message details' I get details like from, date, time. The value displayed for from is not the contact name rather it is their number. Alternatively, instead of long press, short press on the sender's name in the message gives an option to call and when I do so and quickly disconnect, I can see the number which is called, which is the number the message came from. Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]
2013/02/23
404
1,769
<issue_start>username_0: I have a Sony Ericsson Xperia mini (running Android 4.04). I'm trying to remove a few embarrassing words which show up during typing. I tried through **Settings** → **Language and input** → **Personal dictionary**. When I checked the **Personal dictionary**, I see that there are no such words listed, though there is an option to add new words to this list. I added a few words and then afterwards I could delete them also. But I couldn't find any way to delete those words which come up during typing messages etc. I might previously have typed those wrong spellings accidentally, and I think through the **Learn new words automatically when typed** feature the words have been added to the main dictionary. Is there any way to remove them from there? I don't want to turn off the auto-complete/suggestions feature completely.<issue_comment>username_1: Instead of going into personal dictionary, try all languages, which on my phone is right above the personal dictionaries option. That's where my list of words was. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Quick workaround: You can type similar starting words couple of times to make your phone think they are more frequent. Embarrassing words will not disappear but they will not bother you because new words will be suggested instead. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Sometimes switching what type of english "US->UK" may result in a prediction focus. I say this because it was driving me NUTS that abd would come up instead of and when I swipe the text in. Same thing with the word hell, US english doesn't like that word, it will change it to he'll. I thought I could just remove "he'll" from my dictionary, but alas it depends on switching to a more secular language. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/23
1,046
3,747
<issue_start>username_0: Since I upgraded my Samsung Galaxy SII from Android 4.0.4 (ICS) to 4.1.2 (JB), my battery life has decreased dramtically. Running ICS I could easily have ~25% battery left when going to bed, after about 20 hours of moderate use. That is with a few phone calls, reading work/private e-mails as they arrive, occasional news reading, internet browsing and Facebook. My usage pattern is largely unchanged, but since the moment I upgraded to Jelly Bean, I can barely make it through a working day without charging. Looking at earlier battery stat screenshots (I'm a nerd, guilty as charged), my phone would use about 2-3,3%/hour. Now I see usage of between 5,7% and 10,6% per hour! The top power consumer is, as always, the screen, which takes up 35-45% of the power used - just like before. Only now, it has drained the same amount of power, 2-4 times faster - or about 1% of the total battery capacity each minute it's been on. [![Battery usage overview](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7aD9q.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/t88dL.png) [![Screen battery usage details](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l9Yot.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bfhf4.png) [![Battery usage details](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zkB1r.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ch1OC.png) (click images to enlarge) *72% of the total capacity used, of which screen consumed 38% (relative) or 27% (absolute)* *Android OS* has moved up the list of power consumers. Now using typically 16-17% (relative) or 12-17% (absolute), as opposed to the previous 9% (relative) or 5% (absolute). I never switch off WiFi completely, unlike GPS which is switched off (thanks, Facebook) unless I actively need it. Display is set to auto-brightness - just like before. I have completely drained, then fully re-charged, the battery at least three times, to re-calibrate the battery gauge. It didn't help my battery life. Any idea of what's going on here and how to fix it (short of doing a factory reset)? How can the screen suddenly drain the power so fast? What's causing Android OS to burn more fuel as well?<issue_comment>username_1: There is a possibility that one of the app installed in your phone keeps the screen on even when it is locked. If possible, connect through adb and see which apps are active. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You are suffering the same problem I was after upgrading. Look in the direction of either Google Now or Google Maps. Good chance you have 'Report from this device' set in Maps Location Settings. This is murder on your battery! I disabled it and am now back at about 2% - 3% per hour on 3g with light use throughout the day. I also disabled Google Now for good measure, but I didn't notice any real improvements from that. I do still notice much higher battery consumption than 4.04 when having wifi on. At home, I have reverted to 3G after seeing it burn through the battery at 5% per hour even without any active use. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: I had the same problem with battery drain. I can tell from your name that you must be from Denmark. I found my battery drainer in a danish app. Yousee musik was set to automatically download on wifi. Since I turned that setting off my problem was gone! Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I have the same problem and I found that it's the WiFi. If I turn the WiFi off, battery drain is less than 15% in 12 hours for my use. Yesterday I turned the WiFi on in the afternoon and the battery was at 96%. I stayed home connected to my WiFi all day and did not use the phone all afternoon. At 8:30PM the battery was down to 19%. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: Finally, I did a factory reset on my S2 and now the battery lasts the way it used to with ICS. ): Upvotes: 2
2013/02/23
956
3,237
<issue_start>username_0: Due to my profession I have to connect to wired-only LAN-attached devices (like managed switches, routers set-top-boxes, etc.) frequently to access their configuration interfaces via Telnet/SSH/HTTP. I am totally tired of carrying a bag with a laptop with me wherever I go. Now I am planning to buy an Android smartphone and feel like I'd like it to be Sony Ericsson Xperia Active which is pretty tough (I need it very much as my phones fall from my hands/table/pocket hundreds times a year), reasonably robust and stylish. It would simplify my life significantly if I could connect it to wired Ethernet networks. Is this possible? I don't mind using a hack or a custom firmware like Cyanogen Mod. I've already got a USB NIC based on ASIX AX88772 chip (which is detected by Ubuntu out of the box and, AFAIK, is also compatible with XBox, PS3 and Apple Macs).<issue_comment>username_1: Not an answer but a good alternative. Buy this inexpensive [wifi powerbank](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0093IPJKQ). This is practically a very portable wifi router. I bought and use one and so far its great. Can also be an inexpensive Mifi device using a 3G dongle, and a backup battery for your phone. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can do one of these things : 1) By an usb to ethernet cable. I dont know about Sony Xperia Active but you can use the Nexus 7 or Samsung S4 and a usb to ethernet cable (like rj45) plus an otg cable. For method view the following [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvu33kshlSY). 2) By Usb internet or pass through. On some android devices like mine (htc 816g) there is an Usb internet option in settings which helps you to use the computer's internet (Only windows), on your phone. For method view following [video](https://www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=JLUnGetHbpI&u=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DYRoH8aiSzWk%26feature%3Dshare). v=gcFDGkTd83Y&feature=iv&src\_vid=zEpyImojbsU&annotation\_id=annotation\_1409430545 Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: To my experience on sony xperia smartphones internet through ethernet adapter works flawlessly on devices like z, z2 z3 z ultra m5 only until android lollipop 5.0.2 afterwards there seems a change in software which disables this function ality fortunately ut is easily possible to downgrsde. Newer models like z5 may have lost this functionality atleast for lollipop and there you may not be able to downgrade depending on the original firmware Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Here's a full list of compatible devices: [What Xperia devices support USB Host or USB OTG?](https://support.sonymobile.com/gb/xperiaxa/faq/apps-&-settings/02310188027b445c5013d73c192e8007d3c/) I think that OTG Ethernet adapters will be unsupported for a few years because of some Android security issues which may require some extra work, and because they are "less" important features (not everyone who owns an Android device needs an Ethernet adapter). Some examples of exploited vulnerabilities are shown here: [MTPwn](https://github.com/smeso/MTPwn) [OATmeal on the Universal Cereal Bus: Exploiting Android phones over USB](https://googleprojectzero.blogspot.com/2018/09/oatmeal-on-universal-cereal-bus.html) Upvotes: 0
2013/02/23
504
1,987
<issue_start>username_0: I recently purchased an iMito MX1 mini-pc. I was disappointed to find that Hulu Plus is not fully supported on my device. I am able to download the app just fine, but I get an in-app error message that tells me that I am able to browse videos through the app, but video playback is not supported. I have root access and was hoping that [editing the build.prop file](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/5078/is-there-a-way-to-trick-the-android-market-into-thinking-im-using-a-different-d) would trick the app into thinking that my device was supported, but no luck. Is there any other way to force or trick an app into working on an unsupported device?<issue_comment>username_1: What you are doing is not recommended. There is a reason why app developers limit installation to select devices. Namely: 1. Android Version 2. Processor Architecture/GPU 3. Chipset/Board/RAM 4. Screen Size/Density/Resolution This is to ensure good, consistent, and fast user experience as much as possible. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can't FORCE it to work. There may be tricks you can play to fake the app into thinking it's on another device, but for the specific app given (video playback), it's almost certainly refusing to playback because it CAN'T. The hardware on the device is probably something that the devs didn't anticipate, or that the app can tell isn't fast enough to actually work. Even if you find some way to fake it out and make it try, it's only going to crash or play back so slowly that it will be unwatchable. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: You could pull the app apart using apktool an then edit the smali, but as mentioned in previous answers here, that would still lead to problems though. Chances are the developers made the app that way because your device was not capable of playback. If you are really interested in trying to edit the app's smali, have at it: <https://code.google.com/p/android-apktool/> Upvotes: 0
2013/02/24
283
1,144
<issue_start>username_0: I recently played with my friend's Nexus 7 and tried the gesture typing. And I'm surprised it only works on user's locale keyboard. It lacks Ukrainian dictionary too :( , but that's another question. It works only on Russian keyboard. Dictionaries for all English variants are present, I even tried all three English keyboards (QWERTY, UK, US). Android version is 4.2.2. Is that a bug? A reported one?<issue_comment>username_1: Perhaps it is a bug, my Nexus 4 is on the English locale and with a Russian input language gesture typing works. Perhaps you've installed an app that gives you the Russian keyboard, it wouldn't support gesture typing by default. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I don't know about your specific issue, but Swiftkey 4 has gesture typing that's worked for me in multiple languages (English and French). Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I think there are a couple of bugs here. It doesn't work with qwerty layout. It *does* work with UK and US though, but the trick here is to disable and enable again "Gesture input" option *after* needed dictionaries were installed. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/24
253
1,047
<issue_start>username_0: When I open the gallery in my Galaxy Y it shows no items. Also when I open my music player it shows no tracks. I think it is a system error. If I try to play music using PowerAmp it shows all the tracks in library -- but the stock music player doesnt. What could be wrong here, and how can I get it fixed?<issue_comment>username_1: Perhaps it is a bug, my Nexus 4 is on the English locale and with a Russian input language gesture typing works. Perhaps you've installed an app that gives you the Russian keyboard, it wouldn't support gesture typing by default. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I don't know about your specific issue, but Swiftkey 4 has gesture typing that's worked for me in multiple languages (English and French). Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I think there are a couple of bugs here. It doesn't work with qwerty layout. It *does* work with UK and US though, but the trick here is to disable and enable again "Gesture input" option *after* needed dictionaries were installed. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/24
740
2,710
<issue_start>username_0: Using the Spica for the first time. How do I know if I am off the internet after using the phone to browse?<issue_comment>username_1: > > How do I know if I am off the internet after using the phone to browse? > > > You can look at the signal bar, the signal bar would be grayscale when it's not connected to the internet, green if it's connected, and have arrows when actively transmitting data. > > How do I switch off the internet after use on the Samsung Spica? > > > The phone will only connect when it needs to, such as when you're browsing or when an app needs to check for update. Unless you're charged by connection time (I don't know any carrier that does that, most critters charge by amount of transmitted data), there's no need to disable them manually when you're not using it. If you need to disable Mobile Data though, you can do that in the Settings > Wireless & Network. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I would suggest auto disabling WiFi when your phone is locked. This will not only make sure no data is being transmitted, but also save a LOT of battery. Im sure there are *many* ways of going about this, but this is the easiest and most reliable method that I know of. Also, here is how to tell your WiFi status: --- * No WiFi icon = WiFi off * WiFi icon grey = WiFi on, but not connected * Wifi icon blue = WiFi on and connected * Up and Down arrows on WiFi icon = WiFi transmitting or receiving data --- If you just follow the instructions I've provided below, you should have satisfying results in just a few minutes! --- 1. Download **[Tasker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.dinglisch.android.taskerm)** from the **Play Store.** 2. Open **Tasker** and click the `+` button. Now click **Event** → **Display** → **Display Off.** 3. Click the **gear** (back button) in the **top left corner.** A pop up menu will appear. Select **New Task** and name it `Display Off`. 4. Tap `+` → **Net** → **WiFi** and make sure the box that says **Set** is set to `Off`. 5. Click the gear (back) twice so that you end up on the **Profiles** screen. 6. Now click `+` again, then **Event** → **Display** → **Display On.** 7. Tap the gear (back) and then select **New Task**. Name it something along the lines of `Display On`. 8. Click `+` → **Net** → **WiFi** and change **Set** to `On`. Now exit back to the **Profiles** tab. You should now have both **Display Off** and **Display On.** 9. In the **Profiles** tab to the right of your conditions, there are **On/ Off** toggles. Turn both of these to `Off` and then back to `On`. 10. Simply exit out of **Tasker** and you're done! --- Good luck and I hope this helps you! Upvotes: 0
2013/02/24
202
842
<issue_start>username_0: Yesterday Samsung Kies updated my phone to Jelly Beans. After that if I leave my phone plugged in usb port of my Dell Precision, the computer does not boot. It loads the bios, but never goes to the bootloader (Grub) selection screen and the screen remains blank. No hardware beeps or anything. Once I remove the phone, the computer starts fine. The phone did not do that with Ice Cream Sandwich before. This is Rogers version of Jelly Beans. Don't they look the bootloader? Does somebody know what is the cause?<issue_comment>username_1: Probably your mobile is treated as a bootable USB mass storage. Pull down the notifications and try disabling USB Mass storage in your phone. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Change boot sequence of computer from BIOS to make Hard Disk above Removable USB media. Upvotes: 2
2013/02/24
157
615
<issue_start>username_0: I have Sony Xperia P with official android 4.0.4 on board. The Polish language uses some letters, that normally (on PC) are typed by `Alt Gr`+`letter` (eg. `Alt Gr`+`a`=ą). But using `Alt Gr` on external keyboard does not work as intended on android. How to make it working correctly?<issue_comment>username_1: Probably your mobile is treated as a bootable USB mass storage. Pull down the notifications and try disabling USB Mass storage in your phone. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Change boot sequence of computer from BIOS to make Hard Disk above Removable USB media. Upvotes: 2
2013/02/25
739
3,006
<issue_start>username_0: I am absolutely noob in Android hacking, though I am quite good in doing techie stuff. Now I have got my first mobile [Karbonn A5+](http://pricespecs.in/mobiles_price_india/karbonn-a5-price-in-india-and-full-specifications-dual-sim-phone.html). It has 1GHz processor and 431 MB ROM+RAM. It runs Gingerbread. As usual it doesnt get updates. I really want to taste JellyBean on it. So while googling for the same, I found [this thread](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/26612/doing-a-clean-install-of-android-on-nexus-s-galaxy-nexus-or-nexus-7). It instructs to install clean nexus images from [here](https://developers.google.com/android/nexus/images). Can I able to install the same on my mobile following the same instructions?<issue_comment>username_1: I can only wish for that ability @Mahesh(a999). The image has to be prepared for a specific hardware as it involves lot of drivers to be accounted for. The chances are pretty bright if the two device share same hardware, which in your case is not. You can try Cyanogenmod ROMs or other custom ROM. Visit this [XDA](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1788936) page, which is exlcusive for your device. Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You can only use images specifically made for your own device. Unlike common Linux Live CD images, Android images usually comes only with the drivers for the particular device it was intended for to save space. It's highly unlikely you'll be able to run an image designed for another device well, unless the hardware on the device is extremely similar to the original device. Many modders compiles from source code and spends a lot of time figuring out the compilation flags that excludes the drivers they don't need while making sure it includes the ones they need, and tweaking the settings to optimize it for the device; this may be difficult on some device if the manufacturers don't release all their source code or if they didn't publish the settings they used in their own images. Some modders swaps compiled modules from another device with similar hardware into a base image that is known to work on their device; this is essentially trial and error though because there's no guarantee it will work at all. In some extreme cases, there has been times where modders felt that the manufacturer has done an extremely poor job on certain driver and rewrite the entire driver from scratch. In any of these methods, you need to be very familiar with both kernel and the hardware on the device. It's generally easier if the manufacturer released vanilla images and/or their compilation settings. Unlike the compiled binaries, APKs are generally interchangeable though, because they are compiled in Dalvik instead of ARM. Often it's possible to get a sneak peak of later device's feature by side loading the right APKs. This is why it's often possible to install newer launchers and keyboards on previous versions of Android. Upvotes: 2
2013/02/25
1,096
3,957
<issue_start>username_0: I have an iPad mini and a Galaxy Tab 7.7 tablet. What is the easiest way to transfer several large files between an Android device and an iPad device?<issue_comment>username_1: If you have access to a computer, it might be easier to connect the Galaxy Tab and iPad to it via USB, mount both for file access (not sure how this is done in Apple world, but most Android tablets and phones come with built-in features for accessing storage via USB,) copy the files off the source device, and then copy them to the target. If you need to do this over wireless connection and have access to the Internet (either via cell data or Wi-Fi,) third-party apps might be an easier solution. For example [Dropbox](https://www.dropbox.com/) is free, available for both [Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dropbox.android) and [iOS](https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/dropbox/id327630330?mt=8), but has a 300MB file size [limit](https://www.dropbox.com/help/5/en). [Google Drive](https://drive.google.com/) is another alternative, with a free 5GB storage, apps on both operating systems, with file size limit of [10GB each](https://support.google.com/drive/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=37603). There are a myriad other similar services that are available on both platforms, but all of them require Internet connectivity, and usually an account. For direct device-to-device transfers there are fewer choices. [AirBlue](http://www.redmondpie.com/airblue-for-ios-5-iphone-ipod-touch-ipad/) uses bluetooth connectivity on both iOS and Android devices for file transfer. Unfortunately it's only available for jailbroken iPhones via Cydia store. [Here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KB6hDNRAVpU) is another walk-through for file copying over Wi-Fi, but this requires for both Android device to be rooted, and the iOS device to be jailbroken. Instructions from [here](http://www.blogham.com/transfer-videos-from-android-to-ipad-without-using-cables.html) are a bit dated, but do not require any rooting or jailbreaking of your devices, just a few apps that are freely available on [Google Play Store](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.smarterdroid.wififiletransfer) and [iTunes Store](https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/icab-mobile-web-browser/id308111628?mt=8). Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: **Sharable** is a free to use smartphone & tablet and computer application that brilliantly facilitates file sharing between multiple operating system types. Using this app, you can share files between phone/tablet running iOS and Android; file can be share amongst phone/tablet or to and from computer running Mac as well as Windows. You can install the app on each of your devices and view the connected ones in your app’s dashboard. The next step is simply to decide which files to share and have them transferred over wifi. Remember that the devices you use for transfer should all be connected over the same local WI-FI network. <http://sharable.in/> Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Just another alternative to the ones they mentioned is BUMP BUMP is available for [IOS](https://itunes.apple.com/en/app/bump/id305479724?mt=8) and [Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bumptech.bumpga&hl=en) This app lets you share selected files by *bumping* your phones/tablets side by side. This requires both phones connected on the same wifi network. Can also share files on your computer by going to a url and bumping with the space bar. If setup properly, it will be very convenient to use. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Try using [Airdroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sand.airdroid), works for me Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: The best way is to use the [Fast File Transfer](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.floriandraschbacher.fastfiletransfer&hl=en) app from Google Play. It's really good, and you don't need Internet. Upvotes: -1
2013/02/26
810
2,993
<issue_start>username_0: I bought a SIM locked ZTE v790 in Egypt. It tells me that it has 181MB of RAM, but it supposed to be 512MB. Is there a way to check how much RAM my device physically has before deciding to get it replaced?<issue_comment>username_1: The thing that many users do not understand (partly because vendors choose to advertise total RAM chip size) is that the physical memory chip capacity is shared between different parts of the [SoC](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Snapdragon_%28system_on_chip%29) - namely Application Processor and Baseband Processor. So the amount of memory available to your applications is what's left from the original 512Mb after modem, then Android itself and preloaded system apps get their share. You can not judge the user experience by this amount anyway. ICS has better memory management but reports lesser amount of available memory than GB on the same hardware. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I just found out there are actually 2 versions of the ZTE v790 The 512MB RAM International version that is posted in [GSMArena](http://www.gsmarena.com/zte_v790-5134.php) And the lower cost [256MB RAM version](http://www.filgifts.com/view.asp?xitem=ZTE001.4) mostly sold to carriers If you believe you have been given the wrong unit, you should ask for a replacement from your carrier or from the store that you bought it. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: You could simply use a terminal emulator (e.g. [Android Terminal Emulator](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=jackpal.androidterm)) and run the command `free` ``` $ free total used free shared buffers Mem: 487344 472504 14840 0 8348 -/+ buffers/cache: 464156 23188 ``` This example is taken from my *Motorola Milestone 2*, which is supposed to have 512MB RAM. Check with [Alex's answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/40325/16575) what might make the difference here: My output shows 476MB total RAM. Using above command at least you can know for sure how much RAM you've got to work with. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I know this is an old questions but it comes up first in Google so I thought I would put a simple answer. Depending on the version of Android: * Settings > Applications > Running services * or Settings > Apps > Running services * or Settings > More > Application Manager > Running (at the top) * or Settings > System > Developer Options > Running services At the bottom you will see RAM, used and free. Add both number together to get total usable RAM for the device. Note that this might be less than the RAM advertised for the phone model, as the system may reserve some of the RAM for itself as explained in other answers. Cheers Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_5: In Android 8 it is: * Settings > System > About phone > Hardware information This displays RAM size, ROM size, Display resolution and a bunch of other similar parameters. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/26
686
2,786
<issue_start>username_0: Very frustrated so please forgive the rant. I've given up searching Google because despite well written search queries such as "How do I move everything from my SD card to my phone" or "How do I get rid of my SD card" I get results that all have to do with moving stuff TO my SD card FROM my phone. My SD card is flaking out on me and I have gone through several attempts to scan it and fix it and it never stays good for long. My phone has plenty of internal storage I just want to completely get rid of my SD card but I don't want to lose the stuff I have on my SD card or break where things look to find stuff like pictures and music. Does anyone know of ANY forums or tutorials to do the opposite of what it seems everyone else wants to do in relation to SD card storage. Thanks in advance for the help.<issue_comment>username_1: Depending on the phone, you may not be able to move files from the SD card to the phone's internal storage. What you *can* do, however, is buy a replacement SD card and move all the files from the old card to the new one. If your computer has a card reader (many laptops do), you can use that to copy the files from the old card to your hard drive. Or you can connect your phone to your computer with a USB cable and access the files that way. Then remove the old card and insert the new one, and copy the files back. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: If you have any experience with Linux, you could connect your SD card to your PC using a card reader, and use the `dd` command to make a direct dump of the card's contents. Then you could use `dd` again to write the contents onto a new card of the same capacity. (it sounds like your card may be on the verge of total failure, so you should do this as soon as possible, if you have important photos/music on it!) Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: If you've installed any Apps on the SDCard, you can simply move them back to internal storage via the *Settings→Apps→Manage Apps* menu, walking your downloaded apps one by one and see whether it is installed on SDCard. This should be your first step. For the remaining files: If your device offers an "internal SDCard", you could simply use a file manager like e.g. [ES File Explorer File Manager](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.estrongs.android.pop) to move "normal files" from the external to the internal SDCard. Both steps done, remove the SDCard (either should down your device to do so, or simply use the *Settings→Storage* menu to unmount the card first if you can access it without shutting down the device). Optional step: Once the card is removed, you could check again if you still can move apps to SDCard, as the device might use the *internal* SDCard for this. Upvotes: 1
2013/02/26
735
3,017
<issue_start>username_0: I have a Google Nexus 7 that I share with my kids. I am the owner and created a second account for my child. I've found that many games work on my (the owners) account, but will not work on the second users account. One of the apps in question is Unblock me Free. It works great on my account, but on the second users account, it will get to the splash screen and then just disappear. I cannot find any app, user or security settings that could be causing this. Hoping for some insight from this group as to what is causing this. I hesitate to install a root-kit or unlock the tablet unless I can be convinced that's the best/safest way to go.<issue_comment>username_1: As far as [Android SDK documentation](http://developer.android.com/about/versions/android-4.2.html) goes: ``` As an app developer, there’s nothing different you need to do in order for your app to work properly with multiple users on a single device. ... To be certain that your app behaves properly in a multi-user environment, do not refer to your internal app directory or external storage location using hard-coded paths and instead always use the appropriate APIs: ``` Hence theoretically speaking, if the app developer had used appropriate methods this app should work normally. In that sense, I do not think you have any better way other than reporting this to the app developer. Rooting your Nexus 7 doesn't going to solve this issue - in my opinion. --- Update: I sent an email to the support team of the app developer quoting this question. I received a reply as: ``` Thank you for your information. We have filed the issue with engineering team. We'll try our best to fix them ASAP. ``` which in my opinion supports my assumption. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: **Google Play's Family Library** with app and game sharing goes live July 2, 2016. From the relevant post on the website [Android Police](http://www.androidpolice.com/2016/07/02/play-store-family-sharing-apps-games-goes-live-today-july-2nd/): Family Library and sharing have been a long, really long, time coming on Google Play. In his different app teardowns, Cody has repeatedly discovered strings pointing out to the feature coming to Play Books, Play Movies, Play Services, the Play Store, but up until recently, the only Google entity that had benefited from any kind of family sharing was Play Music and its Family Plans. But at this year's Google I/O, Google announced that Family Library was coming to Google Play app and games purchases with the new changes taking effect on July 2nd. What has already changed though are the terms of the Google Play Developer Distribution Agreement. A new section 5.4 explains how a family group, with one manager and different members, can purchase the product once and share it with other members of the family. So starting July 2, any purchases you make on the Play Store will be available for sharing with your other family members. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/26
596
2,200
<issue_start>username_0: Current when I choose a photo to be set as wallpaper, my lock screen's background is automatically changed to be this new one. I want the lockscreen to keep its old background, how can I do that? ps. I'm using Google Samsung Galaxy Nexus.<issue_comment>username_1: You can't do that. But what you can do is download a third party locker such as [GO Locker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jiubang.goscreenlock). Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: This is what you need to do, supposing you're on a stock ROM: 1. Open your Gallery app. 2. Select the image you want to set as background. 3. Hit *Menu* and you should see an option *Set as*, click on it. 4. You should end with several options in which you can find *Home screen*, *Lock screen* and *Home and lock screens*. 5. Select the option you want to set your wallpaper to. ![Screenshot of Set as menu](https://i.stack.imgur.com/95LSj.png) If you have a custom ROM, you should check the forums of that ROM to see if its supports this. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Although I am on another device with another android version (HTC Desire HD / ROM: JellyTime R9, Android 4.2.2) I think the problem may be the same. In the Gallery app I can only set the images as background. But I can set a different lock screen background image in system settings. I think this option depends on the specific Launcher/Lockscreen you use and are also valid in stock roms. I am using NovaLauncher and I can only set a different lockscreen image that way as far as I know. Look in Settings → UI → Lock screen → Background → Custom image (maybe different wording — I only have the German version here). Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: I had a bit of trouble setting the lock screen pic. I have a Samsung Galaxy Ace Q i827 (Appeal in the U.S.) & I had to first find a pic I wanted, then I had to hit the menu button a couple of times to find the 'set as' button. At first I only hit it once, & no 'save as' button appeared. But after hitting it again, it popped up. After clicking on the 'set as', I had the option of selecting the lock screen or wallpaper. This is for gingerbread 2.3.6. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/26
366
1,384
<issue_start>username_0: I want a video file to be open automatically on my LG tablet when it boots. Is there any app or setting in Android? There is a video presentation that I am sending to my clients and all I want is that when client turn on the tablet, my video presentation starts playing automatically.<issue_comment>username_1: Could probably be realized using [Tasker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.dinglisch.android.taskerm): * Condition: Boot completed (or Monitor Start) * Task: Start App Not sure if you can specify a video file directly here. But there might at least be some video player supporting to automatically start playing the latest playlist, which should make up for it. You can find a free 7-day-trial of tasker on their homepage -- or try alternative automation apps such as e.g. [Llama - Location Profiles](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.kebab.Llama). Another possibility is to create the profile with *Tasker*, and then export it using the [Tasker App Factory](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.dinglisch.android.appfactory); this way you'ld get a "free version app" of your profile to distribute on the tablets. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: [VideoKiosk](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.burningthumb.premiervideokiosk&hl=en) may be what you are looking for. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/26
1,581
5,906
<issue_start>username_0: On iOS, when I select one or more photos from the camera storage and choose to send them by email, the OS will ask me whether to send the images in full size or make them smaller so that the email won't be so large. On Android (stock 4.2.2 on Nexus 4) I haven't found a comparable function. When I send an email of my baby to my mom, she receives a full 8-megapixel image that's too large to view on her monitor... **How can I have Android reduce the chosen photos before emailing them?** I don't want to have to launch an editor app and scale each image individually. I only found [one 2-year-old post](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/4284/change-image-size-before-sharing-an-image-via-email) about this that doesn't mention any solution. Surely, there's a way to do this on Android, similar to how it's done on iOS?<issue_comment>username_1: There is no stock option to do this. Here's what I do, and it works pretty good, but isn't perfect. 1. Download [Reduce Photo Size from the Play store](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.shoozhoo.imageresizer). 2. When composing an email, click Add Attachment. 3. A choice of locations will pop up. Choose Reduce Photo Size. 4. Then choose either Select Image or Take a Photo. 5. If you click Select Image, then choose Gallery. 6. Once you have selected the photo you want to send, click Reduce. 7. Now a confusing window will pop up and this is where it gets a little tricky. You really have to know picture sizes as measured in pixels. Click Custom. The smallest photo size will be shown as a default (320x240 or something). I usually use 640x480 for a small 25kb pic, but you could resize up to anything you want. 8. Hit OK and then choose the three dots for the menu and choose Done. That's it! Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: [Image Shrink Lite](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gmail.anolivetree.imageshrinklite) is just right for me; there's a paid version with more options. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: There is a free (as in [freedom](http://www.gnu.org/philosophy/free-sw.html)) application [Send Reduced](https://f-droid.org/en/packages/mobi.omegacentauri.SendReduced/), available at the [F-Droid](http://f-droid.org/) repository of free software. Install F-Droid, install Send Reduced, select your photos, press Share button, select Send Reduced and then select the sharing method. Your photos will be sent reduced in resolution and file size. Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_4: Alternativley use Google+ Auto Backup option, by default it resizes photos to 2048x2048px and reduces by size. You can then share this photo or just send it by link. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: You could try JustResizeIt! ([free](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ch.perspectives.jrifree) or [paid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ch.perspectives.jri)) It's optimized to send many pictures to many emails. You can send entire albums to all your friends. Install the free version, create a widget with many email recipients. Then open your Gallery, choose as many pictures you want, tap on Share and select JustResizeIt!. Wait the pictures to load, then just tap on the widget you predefined. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_6: [Quick Reduce Photo](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mobso.photoreducer) is a completely free app to compress any number of photos. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: Free [Email Photos](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gubbins.emailphotos) android app allows photos to be easily resized (small, medium or large) and emailed. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_8: What I do: put away my Android 5.5 inch screen phone for a second. Using my old iPhone 5s with a broken home button, open Google Photos where I have the pictures I need to email and send it using not gmail app, since it won't cut the size either, but mail app using gmail account. Before releasing the wrath saying this aint the answer you were looking for or this is not an answer, allow me to explain myself, because this might be an answer for those who are like me and believe some functionalities just should be there and substituting them with apps from unknown sources just might not be a good solution. I don't like downloading extra software containing ads (after some were firing full-screen ads right after unlocking the screen). I dont like third party apps that for no reason get access to my library. Nor do I like using them to browse through all my phone to find photos I need to email after I already nicely arranged them by albums in Google Photos and they are all in one place. Yes, Android is awesome. But iOS is good too for certain things. I beleive that nowadays many can afford to have at least an iPhone 5 (used are very cheap) which is fast enough for functionalities that are not native to Android. Especially since iOS can easily sync with Google accounts and apps. So I suggest to finally stop this: hey I am a Mac and I am a PC dillema and say, yes, I do use Windows when I want to play the Witcher 3, but I do use Mac for work. It's the same with Android and iOS. Yes Android is 100 times more flexible and convenient than iOS. But I do prefer some things to do on iOS devices since it's much faster and just works. Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_9: I recommend taking a screenshot of the image, and cropping it. It should reduce the size a bit without an app. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_10: Use [Blue Mail](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=me.bluemail.mail). In-built feature to reduce size. Pop-up window before sending. Very efficient. Up to 10 pics in one go. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_11: Send it to yourself on whatsapp, it will automatically reduce the size. Then send that reduced pic in email. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/26
1,922
7,773
<issue_start>username_0: When using a normal computer I like to use a launcher to quickly launch applications and perform other tasks. Examples of such launchers are [Quicksilver](http://qsapp.com/), [Launchy](http://www.launchy.net/), [Gnome-Do](http://do.cooperteam.net/) and [Kupfer](http://engla.github.com/kupfer/) (which I currently prefer). The power of these launchers is that you can easily open them with a shortcut, type a few characters to find the application and press enter to launch it. I'm looking for a similar app for Android (I'm using a Nexus 7 with 4.2). I already found a few solutions, but they all have small shortcomings, so I'm still looking for the perfect solution: * [Quickdroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=vu.de.urpool.quickdroid): This Open Source app can search apps, contacts, music and a few other things. It also provides a 'quick launch' by adding a permanent notification to open Quickdroid. However it still feels as not fast enough, as you have to open the notification drawer, search for the quickdroid notification and touch it. * [FAST App Search](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.ligi.fast): This is a much simpler app (also Open Source), which only searches apps (no contacts etc, so that's it's weak point). It can however be configured to launch when dragging the home button from the bottom up to the center of the screen, thereby replacing Google Now. * Google Now: When dragging the home button up, the Nexus 7 will by default launch Google Now. This actually searches for apps, music, contacts etc and applications can add 'catalogs' to it. So in fact this is pretty much what I'm looking for. The problem here is that (1) After opening Google Now you need to tap the search field before you can start typing, (2) because of the google search suggestions, the actual matching applications are hidden behind the onscreen keyboard and (3) to really search all the 'catalogs' you need to tap 'search tablet'. * Google from homescreen: I can also press the google search button on the homescreen of the Nexus 7. The result is similar to opening Google Now, except that the search field immediately gets the cursor-focus. This obviously adds another step because you have to make the homescreen visible, and doesn't solve the search suggestions. Is it possible to configure the 'drag the home button up'-action, to launch the google search, with the search field focused and immediately in tablet-search modus? This certainly feels like the best solution as it is already part of Android and apps can extend it by adding content. Or are there other similar apps that can be configured to launch by a single tap/drag and search for apps, contacts, music, etc?<issue_comment>username_1: going a slightly different route, have you considered an app like FlipLauncher? You get approx 24 slots to save shortcuts to apps. A quick slide of the finger from edge of the phone to the screen will launch one of the strips of apps, enabling you to launch an app from the strip. The beauty of this is it doesn't matter what app you are currently in, you can still launch one of your shortcut apps from the current app. When launched, using back arrow will take you to your previous app. Example - IMDB, Browser or part of your shortcut apps. You are reading an article in your news reader about a great new movie, you want to see the trailer, so you launch the strip that contains your IMDB icon, press on it launching the IMDB app, watch the trailer, back arrow out of IMDB, and you go straight back to the article you were reading. (I have no interest in this app, other than finding it has made using my phone quicker and easier and reduced the number of home pages I require and the number of times I go into the app drawer). I know this isn't exactly what you are looking for, but I think it is a much quicker alternative that can cover you in most instances. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: QuickDroid also has a widget. Have you tried that? It seems like the search field is there in your home screen. It's not really (when you tap it to start typing, it opens the search screen), but looks nice at least... Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: To improve your first bullet, some custom launcher apps would allow you to open QuickDroid in a simple way. Nova Launcher Prime, which I am using right now, lets you set the action of a swipe on the homescreen to launch a custom app. Other popular launchers that claim to allow gestures are Go Launcher, Apex Launcher, and Holo Launcher. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: Have you not considered this application which actually overlays the existing launcher, and by using gestures such as tapping on the corner of the screen, to launch a certain app. The app is called [SwipePad](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mobi.conduction.swipepad.android) Its a complement to the existing launchers out there on the market. To quote: > > SwipePad is a launcher panel overlay. With a single swipe action, you > can launch anything from within any app. It's extraordinarily simple > and intuitive to use: > > > 1. Touch down a pre-set edge of the screen; > 2. Move your finger towards the center of the screen so the pad will emerge; > 3. Release your finger on a specific slot to action. > > > Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: To answer my own question: I found [SwipeSwitcher Lite](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.appspot.eikatou0.ss) and am using this to easily launch QuickDroid. SwipeSwitcher is a very simple app which just adds a small invisble overlay on the left and right edges of the screen. It let's you configure each overlay to launch an app (or go the the previous/next app in the default configuration). So I configured the left edge to launch QuickDroid and kept the right edge at the default config. Now I can quickly launch QuickDroid by swiping from the left edge of the screen. To launch an app all I do now is swipe, type 2 - 3 characters, and select the app. And as an added bonus, I can quickly go back to the previous app by swiping from the right edge of the screen. So far I really like this very simple solution. It's similar to other suggested solutions such as FlipLauncher and SwipePad, except that SwipeSwitcher does not replace the homescreen and immediately launches one single app. I also had a look at [Google Search Launcher](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=google.launcher), as that promised to be exactly what I wanted to use the Android built-in Tablet search. However, this really just launches the Google Search, so it is still not in 'tablet search mode' by default and still shows search suggestions. It also makes the homesceeen inaccessible and was rather slow. It seemed promising but was a rather dissapointing. **Update**: I just found another very nice solution. If you have Tasker installed, you can install [Assistant Event for Tasker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.emptypath.taskerassist&feature=search_result). Then you can create a task which will launch QuickDroid (or any app of your choice) when using the gesture which would normally open Google Now (the "Google Assistant" gesture). Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_6: try conjure app on google play. might be similar to what you want. (lifehacker has an article on them). Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_7: I've found [App Dialler](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ccpcreations.android.appdialer) to be pretty quick. T9 fuzzy(?) Searching app launcher I have xposeds GravityBox pielauncher setup with an app dialler shortcut to launch from any app with a small gesture and single tap Upvotes: 0
2013/02/26
879
3,367
<issue_start>username_0: When I leave home or the office there is a ring around it where I simply have no connection at all. This is because the WLAN network from my router at home or the one at the office is detected, but the signal is so weak that no useful data flow can occur. Is there a way in which I can make android use the mobile data network when the WLAN signal strength is below a certain strength so that there isn't this annoying "dead ring of no connectivity"? Googling this problem or searching the app store keeps giving me solutions for the exact opposite. thanks in advance<issue_comment>username_1: You can do so by having your WiFi switched off when its signal gets weak. There are several apps available on the Playstore which can watch the WiFi signal, one of them being [Tasker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.dinglisch.android.taskerm) (which is what I use). Here you can define a minimum level and tell *Tasker*: If WiFi signal falls below this, switch WiFi off. Of course you can make it even more detailed, and letting it check every X minutes whether signal quality has improved. It might be a little tricky to set up first (especially when one is not used to *Tasker*) -- but once it works, and you figure out what else can be done with that app, you don't want to miss it. An example how this could look like can be found in [What is *Cell standby* and how can I keep it from eating my battery?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/29447/16575) -- a little different topic, but a similar idea behind it. You might also take a look at similar apps. Though *Tasker* is not free (you can get a 7-day trial on their website), it's worth every cent -- but might be hard for beginners. There are other automation apps around, as e.g. [Llama](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.kebab.Llama), which might also able to do a similar job. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: [BestSignal](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.eightythirty.bestsignal&hl=en) seems like the perfect solution. It offers both default configurations and also advanced configurations. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I just installed [BESTSIGNAL](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.eightythirty.bestsignal) on my HTC ONE M7 from the developer of the [same name](https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=BestSignal). It's the paid version but only AUD1.99 and it works well, simple yet highly functional GUI. However it was not compatible on my Google Nexus 7 (2012) nor my ASUS Transformer TF700T so be sure to check your device compatibility. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: In Android 4.4, there is an explicit option for this: Settings -> WiFi -> Advanced Wi-Fi -> Avoid poor connections In Android 5, this option appears to have been removed. There is an [Android bug/feature](https://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=81843) with many complaints on this. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: From Android 5 onwards, there's a setting in the *Developer options* called *Aggressive WiFi to mobile handover*. Enabling this setting makes your phone switch to mobile connection when the WiFi signal is too weak. You can also take a look at [a tutorial with screenshots](https://mikalikes.men/force-android-to-switch-to-mobile-internet-on-weak-wifi/). Upvotes: 3
2013/02/26
1,151
4,259
<issue_start>username_0: I got a Galaxy S today. It shows a *"Firmware version 2.1-update1"*, which I suppose is Android 2.1.1. I want to install an up-to-date Android version on it, so I thought I'd turn to Cyanogenmod. I have never done this. (In fact, I am still at the state where I am a bit hazy about what terms as "rooting", "flashing" etc. exactly apply to.) I have found [this step-by-step guide to install Cyanogenmod on a Galaxy S](http://wiki.cyanogenmod.org/w/Install_CM_for_galaxysmtd) and tried to follow it, but I failed miserably. I got as far as #5, where I would put the ClockworkMod recovery file onto the phone, but there `heimdall flash --kernel zImage --no-reboot` gives me a `Initialising connection... Detecting device... Claiming interface... ERROR: Claiming interface failed!` I have put several hours into this, but now I am stumped for good. I used to get `failed to detect compatible device` when I started this. After lots of searching the web, installed Samsung's Kies software, because it is supposed to allow the phone to be updated to Android 2.2, which some guides seem to presume as a starting point. However, I was unable to get Kies to even recognize the device. But its installation seems to have gotten me past Heimdall's error. At other places, however, I have found statements saying that one should *uninstall* Kies in order to get Heimdall working... So what did I do wrong? How am I to proceed? What should I try next?<issue_comment>username_1: You can do so by having your WiFi switched off when its signal gets weak. There are several apps available on the Playstore which can watch the WiFi signal, one of them being [Tasker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.dinglisch.android.taskerm) (which is what I use). Here you can define a minimum level and tell *Tasker*: If WiFi signal falls below this, switch WiFi off. Of course you can make it even more detailed, and letting it check every X minutes whether signal quality has improved. It might be a little tricky to set up first (especially when one is not used to *Tasker*) -- but once it works, and you figure out what else can be done with that app, you don't want to miss it. An example how this could look like can be found in [What is *Cell standby* and how can I keep it from eating my battery?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/29447/16575) -- a little different topic, but a similar idea behind it. You might also take a look at similar apps. Though *Tasker* is not free (you can get a 7-day trial on their website), it's worth every cent -- but might be hard for beginners. There are other automation apps around, as e.g. [Llama](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.kebab.Llama), which might also able to do a similar job. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: [BestSignal](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.eightythirty.bestsignal&hl=en) seems like the perfect solution. It offers both default configurations and also advanced configurations. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I just installed [BESTSIGNAL](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.eightythirty.bestsignal) on my HTC ONE M7 from the developer of the [same name](https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=BestSignal). It's the paid version but only AUD1.99 and it works well, simple yet highly functional GUI. However it was not compatible on my Google Nexus 7 (2012) nor my ASUS Transformer TF700T so be sure to check your device compatibility. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: In Android 4.4, there is an explicit option for this: Settings -> WiFi -> Advanced Wi-Fi -> Avoid poor connections In Android 5, this option appears to have been removed. There is an [Android bug/feature](https://code.google.com/p/android/issues/detail?id=81843) with many complaints on this. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: From Android 5 onwards, there's a setting in the *Developer options* called *Aggressive WiFi to mobile handover*. Enabling this setting makes your phone switch to mobile connection when the WiFi signal is too weak. You can also take a look at [a tutorial with screenshots](https://mikalikes.men/force-android-to-switch-to-mobile-internet-on-weak-wifi/). Upvotes: 3
2013/02/26
539
2,184
<issue_start>username_0: I've downloaded an application that wasn't in Google Play (private developer) for testing purposed. Part of the assignment is for me to send them back some information about my device (auto-generated, I just hit send). However, I noticed before sending the email that there was an attachment. I sent it to myself first so I could look at it on my computer and saw it was all of my contacts and the information I had of them, such as phone numbers, names, etc. Is this something the developer legitly needs? The application can call other people, so that may be why they need it, but I don't understand why they need it. Should I send it to them?<issue_comment>username_1: Definitly not! That's *nothing* like what a developer needs. And a developer *requiring* you to send that I'd avoid in the future as well. All that *might* be needed can be provided by e.g. `adb bugreport` (which is the most comprehensive data collection known to me to be useful for a developer concerning his development). Requesting all your addresses is [harvesting](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Email_address_harvesting), and rather used for spamming. **TL;DR:** I would *NOT* send that information. You might contact that dev and ask for an explanation, and then *maybe* decide different. But I cannot believe this being a "mistake" or simply "carelessness". Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: NO. There is no reason why an app would need **all** your contacts. It's possible that contact information might be useful, if the app does anything to the information about the contact. For example, the app might want to format the phone number (for aesthetic purposes), because it could be saved in many ways (e.g. +639171234567, 09171234567). They might also be interested in how many contact numbers you have for that person. How would they handle such scenario if you called the person? Would they use the first number or the second number? If you know the person developing the app (or even if you don't), the best way would be to ask them what they need it for. But the bottomline is: NO, they should never have to need ALL of your contacts. Upvotes: 1
2013/02/27
488
2,098
<issue_start>username_0: I've noticed that Google Maps, for instance, can guess where you are using phone towers or something even when GPS is turned off. Does this apply to 3rd party apps? Can any app figure out where you are? If so, are there large security implications there? Basically as a developer, couldn't you build a background process that tracks every the location of every phone that has your app installed?<issue_comment>username_1: Apps can get your approximate location without GPS, but only if they have the "coarse location" permission. The "fine location" permission lets an app get your GPS location too, if GPS is enabled. When you an install an app, Android shows you the permissions it needs. If you don't see coarse or fine location in the list, the app can't get your location. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Yes, but the application has to request the LOCATION\_COARSE permission. This uses a couple different sources used to find the approximate location. * Wifi access points: Google tracks the location of access points by gathering information about them when people have GPS on. Then they can use these access points to tell you where you are when you don't have GPS. You would have to have Wifi on in order for the device to use this method. * Cell Towers (tries to get at least 3, so it can triangulate the location, just like in the movies. Ok, this part isn't entirely true. They could use 2 towers (or even 1) to get your approximate location, but it wouldn't be nearly as accurate as 3.) There may be other sources that are used, but I do not know of them, at least I can't think of any right now. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: You can restrict this information by adjusting you location settings i.e. under location services switch off the option to use wireless networks. This should stop most if not all from reporting your current position. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: An app with permission to use the internet could also approximate your location using your IP address even without any location permissions. Upvotes: 2
2013/02/27
491
1,869
<issue_start>username_0: I use an app called "Live Video Wallpaper" or LVW which is basically a live wallpaper that allows you to select a video as your live wallpaper. I have no problem with it but I accidentally checked the "Do Not Ask Again" option when I was asked whether or not I'd like to use my home screen wallpaper as my lock screen wallpaper too before I pressed no. Now I have the problem that I can't set my home screen as my lock screen as well. Before, I used LVW as my home then set my Galaxy S2 to use it as my lock screen wallpaper as well but now with the option set to "NO" and the default set to "Do Not Ask Again", I can't do it anymore since live wallpapers normally cannot be set as lock screens (LVW was my way to get around that). Is there a way I can "Unset" that "Do Not Ask Again" option for using my home as my lock screen wallpaper as well? Sorry if I'm redundant.<issue_comment>username_1: Try resetting the default wall paper setting by following these steps (described for Samsung's 4.0; see also [this question](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/6042/i-checked-use-as-default-when-choosing-the-default-launcher-but-now-i-cant-s)): `Menu | Settings | Applications | All | TwWallpaperChooser | Clear defaults` If you also want to reset the settings of your wallpaper application follow these steps: `Menu | Settings | Applications | (said application) | Clear data` Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I found this application in Play Store but I'm not sure if it works or not. Just give it a try its safe to use. Here - [DefaultApp Reset](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=pxlib.android.defaultappset&hl=en) Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Go to Settings-->Apps-->**Gallery** (or any other Wallpaper browser app that you have used to set the wallpaper)-->`Clear Data` and `Clear Cache`. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/27
2,178
8,025
<issue_start>username_0: Is there any way to boot an Android phone\* from a bus-powered USB drive\*\*? If so, what are the steps to achieve this? *\* E.g. one with USB OTG functionality.* *\*\* E.g. a flash drive.*<issue_comment>username_1: *Please clarify what is the intended goal and why?* Android phones have their own boot-loaders and cannot be overridden by other means. It is not like a PC's BIOS where you can switch the ordering of boot to boot from certain devices such as Network PXE, USB, Primary/Secondary H.D.D... Edit: ----- After the comments below, and in relation to the OP's question > > Is there any way to boot an Android phone (E.g. one with USB OTG functionality.) via way of a bus-powered USB drive > > > The generic boot-loader (\*which resides on the chip-set) has no knowledge of USB etc, as the lk (Little Kernel) is more concerned about trapping keystrokes in order to chain-load into recovery or to boot directly into Android environment (When holding Vol+Down key in this instance) - in pseudo-code (*this is from the context/aspect of lk, and also, the memory addresses pertaining to how to read the partitions are hard-coded into this lk so it will know how to process the logic!*) The lk kernel is the de-facto standard by Qualcomm for MSM chipsets (Snapdragon) and adopted by manufacturers such as Sony, Motorola, LG, Samsung and can be found in the AOSP source under `bootable/bootloader`. **if** (*Is Volume Down key pressed?*) **then** * chain-load kernel from `/recovery` partition into particular address in memory and jump to it and start execution, in bringing up the recovery environment **else** * chain-load kernel from `/system` partition into particular address in memory and jump to it and start execution in bringing up the Android environment. **end if.** As the kernel within lk is pretty limited, considering that the binary image of the kernel is burned into the chip and *therefore no way of modifying it*. And also should be mentioned that lk contains the `fastboot` protocol in preparation for flashing `/boot`, `/recovery`, `/system` and `/data` partitions. There are two sequences to boot, primary boot and secondary boot as it is: * Primary Boot -> lk (depending on outcome of logic) * Go into Secondary Boot -> `/boot` or `/recovery` **Side note:** Samsung is fond of the PBL/SBL (Which is Primary Boot Loader and Secondary Boot Loader respectively) in their jargon when it comes to modding. Thing about Samsung, is that, in some handsets, PBL and SBL may be encrypted (Samsung Wave GT-S8500 is one such example, where porting Android to it was nearly impossible to do because of the DRM within the boot loaders which was a nightmare to deal with and made modding it *extremely* difficult, nonetheless, it is sort of working via an exploit in the FOTA code!) This is why there are no extra facilities such as OTG functionality or anything else such as serial communications, reading from SDCard, graphics etc as it would make the lk kernel bigger than is intended. In other words, it is the smallest possible size of kernel that is designated to do just the above pseudo-code happen. Also, another way of looking at it is this, and this is dependent on the Android version - the USB OTG functionality is fully *brought* up within the Android environment, i.e when the familiar home screen appears, **then** OTG's functionality is enabled. Unfortunately not the case when looking at it from lk's perspective. If you're curious, here's the [Qualcomm entry](https://www.codeaurora.org/2010/03/02/little-kernel-based-android-bootloader/) on the above lk which is a part of the tiny C source that has ARM assembly included and found in JellyBean's AOSP source in `bootable/bootloader/legacy/usbloader/main.c` ``` int boot_linux_from_flash(void) { boot_img_hdr *hdr = (void*) raw_header; unsigned n; ptentry *p; unsigned offset = 0; const char *cmdline; if((p = flash_find_ptn("boot")) == 0) { cprintf("NO BOOT PARTITION\n"); return -1; } if(flash_read(p, offset, raw_header, 2048)) { cprintf("CANNOT READ BOOT IMAGE HEADER\n"); return -1; } offset += 2048; if(memcmp(hdr->magic, BOOT_MAGIC, BOOT_MAGIC_SIZE)) { cprintf("INVALID BOOT IMAGE HEADER\n"); return -1; } n = (hdr->kernel_size + (FLASH_PAGE_SIZE - 1)) & (~(FLASH_PAGE_SIZE - 1)); if(flash_read(p, offset, (void*) hdr->kernel_addr, n)) { cprintf("CANNOT READ KERNEL IMAGE\n"); return -1; } offset += n; n = (hdr->ramdisk_size + (FLASH_PAGE_SIZE - 1)) & (~(FLASH_PAGE_SIZE - 1)); if(flash_read(p, offset, (void*) hdr->ramdisk_addr, n)) { cprintf("CANNOT READ RAMDISK IMAGE\n"); return -1; } offset += n; dprintf("\nkernel @ %x (%d bytes)\n", hdr->kernel_addr, hdr->kernel_size); dprintf("ramdisk @ %x (%d bytes)\n\n\n", hdr->ramdisk_addr, hdr->ramdisk_size); if(hdr->cmdline[0]) { cmdline = (char*) hdr->cmdline; } else { cmdline = board_cmdline(); if(cmdline == 0) { cmdline = "mem=50M console=null"; } } cprintf("cmdline = '%s'\n", cmdline); cprintf("\nBooting Linux\n"); create_atags(ADDR_TAGS, cmdline, hdr->ramdisk_addr, hdr->ramdisk_size); boot_linux(hdr->kernel_addr); return 0; } ``` Upvotes: 6 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: It is possible in a sense, however. Given the limitations mentioned in @username_1 's answer, it makes sense that the mentioned boot loader (lk) is incapable of doing this. So, we boot a custom kernel from `fastboot` (for testing), which boots, enables OTG functionality and once a valid kernel is found on the OTG device which is connected, chainloads that into memory and passes control to it. This could probably even be integrated into modern custom recoveries like TWRP which have both OTG and (in some cases) MultiROM support. This has actually been used to boot Ubuntu on a Nexus 9 tablet, using the method: 1. `fastboot boot` 2. boots and enables OTG and waits for OTG device to be connected. 3. Device is disconnected from PC and USB flash drive having bootable Ubuntu image is connected to it via OTG. 4. detects a valid Linux kernel on the OTG device and passes control to it after chainloading it into memory. Now, if you wanted to, you could boot a compatible Android ROM image in a similar way, but remember that the OTG drive would have to be kept connected to the device until you decide to return to the native OS (since all apps would load from, and all data would be written to the USB flash drive, unless the entire Android ROM could be configured as a ramdisk (ever heard of Puppy Linux?), which, given the current memory capacities of common Android devices and the size of the ROM itself is currently impractical). That precludes charging while booted to OTG OS, too, on most devices with unified data/charger ports. Source: [XDA-Developers Nexus 9 subforum](http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-9/general/guide-linux-nexus-9-t2985958) Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: its posible and i did it on my acer iconia tablet!!!! connect a flash drive to your pc and format to fat32 use rufus to port the iso/dd to your flash drive connect it to otg and into your phone/tablet.. hold the power key and tap volume down if it doesnt boot try holding the power key and tap the volume up then using volume keys move over to UDisk (your flash drive brand) or SATA; UDISK (it doesnt have to be your usb brand, it can say usb storage) and click the power key to confirm well, i had sevior trouble with booting into the menu, so i somehow managed to avoid the kernel to boot and by that stop the android to boot i think it was like this : i connected to the pc, then deleted all the assects from the tablet, but copying Android folder kernel was removed and after boot connected back to the pc with a usb hub well hope i helped :) Upvotes: 0
2013/02/27
393
1,536
<issue_start>username_0: I am using android jellybeans. There is a large amount of debug information being dumped by many components. So, I notice that logs from my application are often lost. I have tried dumping logcat log in to a file in the phone and then doing a "adb pull". Still, there is a good amount of logs thar are lost. Is there a way to ensure no logs are lost.<issue_comment>username_1: Logging on Android uses a ring buffer with a fixed size (exact size depends on different criteria), see e.g. [What is the size limit for Logcat?](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/6321555/what-is-the-size-limit-for-logcat), so older entries get overwritten once the buffer is "full". You can adjust the size of the buffer (see: [How do I increase the log size of dev/log/main?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/17572/16575)) -- but those adjustments would probably not survive a boot. If you really want to make sure no log data is lost, you would need to pipe the log to some "external ressource" -- either to some "external storage" or "the cloud". Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: First the log in android it's a circular log, that means that if you have a lot of logging going out there you're older statements will be overwritten. Why don't you use a custom solution like microlog for android <http://code.google.com/p/microlog4android/> You can use command logcat | grep 'YOURTAG', for only showing your apps logs. It can be done through any Terminal Emulator, or using Android Debug Bridge (adb) Upvotes: 0
2013/02/27
2,165
8,493
<issue_start>username_0: After switching from my Nexus S to a Nexus 4 I noticed that my phone was transferring huge amounts of background data. Like 70 MB in 15 minutes. As my data plan only allows 300 MB per month I was not amused. Even when connected to WiFi, it often (but not always!) was uploading tons of data. According to the "Network Usage" the culprit was "Android OS". So I tried to limit the background data of it only to find that "Android OS" seems to be the only "app" which doesn't offer this option. Great. Well okay, that's what firewalls apps are made for. I configured AFWall+ but that only cured the symptom not the cause. Next I redirected the traffic to a laptop with a WiFi card and used the usual tools (tcpdump, wireshark) to analyse the traffic. Result: many many uploads to some Google servers but SSL encrypted so no chance to see the contents. I kept investigating and found [this very interesting article on Android data usage](http://socialtimes.com/tracking-down-android-data-usage_b48336). Apparently Google has began expanding its cloud-based backups of the phone settings so that it now also does backups of the data of some apps. So, I turned off "Back up my settings" in the Privacy settings and whoopiedoo, the sending stopped and the data traffic returned to a normal amount! There is a post in a Google forum with similar experience: [*Something within the Android System—maybe Backup—is using up all my data allowance*](http://productforums.google.com/forum/#!searchin/en/google%2420backup%2420transport/gmail/21vAVqA9NqQ/1cOJgJa3Om4J). I started looking in the Android documentation and found that there is such a thing as "Android Backup Service" which apps can use to backup their application data to the Google cloud: [Data Backup](http://developer.android.com/guide/topics/data/backup.html) And there is even an [CLI utility "bmgr"](http://developer.android.com/tools/help/bmgr.html) to interact with the Backup Manager. But I cannot find any information about how the phone owner can find out which application is backing up which data, or how to influence or stop this. I'd be happy to use the backup service—it saved me a lot of time when switching to my new phone—but the way it is implemented now it's definitely unusable. After talking to my former coworker and Android expert Izzy who was clueless too, I decided to post this issue here as—like he said—I will find the best experts here. Well, let me know if you have any idea about this. Any hint is welcome!<issue_comment>username_1: The list of applications with backups as well as how much space each backup uses is on your [Google Account Dashboard](https://www.google.com/dashboard/) under "Android Devices". Unfortunately, there isn't, I believe, any way to control it other than turning it on or off entirely. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: It seems that Google doesn't allow us more insight and no way to influence the backed up data. It's true that the Google Dashboard shows a little more detail about the saved data. But it takes a day or two for the information to appear, and it's definitely not complete. I reactivated the cloud backup feature about a week ago, it has uploaded 178 MB of data, but the dashboard shows just this: Android Wallpaper 05.03.2013 10:52 **6,6 MB** Android System Settings 05.03.2013 02:16 **3,61 KB** Android Market 03.03.2013 13:27 **16 B** AndroRadio 03.03.2013 13:27 **8 B** That's wrong AND not useful. *sigh* ![data usage since reactivating Googles backupmanager](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SXYB4.png) Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I would propose to disable the Android built-in Google Cloud Backup in the settings and use another app to backup your phone. For example, [Carbon](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.koushikdutta.backup) supports backing up apps online to different cloud storage providers, and allows to restrict backups to times when you're connected with a Wifi network. Carbon also has the advantage that it can backup apps that are not backed up by Google Cloud Backup. [TitaniumBackup](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.keramidas.TitaniumBackup) also supports backing up your data online, but requires root. Both apps also support that they only back-up when your phone is connected to a charger, so that they don't suck your battery empty when you need it for other purposes. The disadvantage of this solution would be that they both only support scheduled backups, so if you back-up only once a week, you might lose a week of your backed up data if you lose or destroy your phone just before the backup would run. However, I don't know exactly which schedule is used by the Google Backup solution, so this could suffer a similar problem. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Quite certain that this is a bug in Nexus 4. Ended up using close to 100 MB for Android OS last month and my current plan is only for 350 MB. Turning off 'Google backup' did not really have much of an impact as indicated in many forums. I did notice that 'Android OS' is active only when connected to my mobile network and not when connected to Wifi. **The issue is severe only when connected to my mobile network with "restrict background data " turned ON.** I have used the phone for couple of days with background data unrestricted and Android OS consumed limited data.. less than 1 MB. now, I restrict data based on individual apps while on mobile networks and this seems to work fine. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: Android OS also includes the YouTube data or any video data which you have viewed online using browser/YouTube. You must have watched equally that much amount of videos online from your device. When you browse in the YouTube app or browser only browsing data is recorded by respective apps the actual data streamed for video is recorded under Android OS Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_6: I don't know if this answers the original question, but I think this will explain data usage at least in some cases. I was having issues with excessive usage by the Android OS and I have discovered that on my phone (Sprint GS3 running Android 4.1.2) manually changing the wallpaper causes the android system to upload aprox 15MB of data (on one occasion it uploaded close to 60MB but I have been unable to duplicate that), so if you have an app changing the wallpaper several times a day that could explain Android OS data usage - at least in some cases. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: I have a similar problem and checking on the [Dashboard](https://www.google.com/settings/dashboard) under the Android Devices (as suggested by username_1) I see that I have: ``` Android Wallpaper Backup date: 5 Jul 2014 22:33 Backup size: 5.66 MB ``` I read that username_2 has similar values so maybe the problem is related to an application I'm using to change my wallpaper every hour: Zedge. Mendel too reported the wallpaper changing as a possible cause. So the possible solution, ATM, are: * change the wallpaper less frequently / not automatically; * disable the "backup my data" setting under settings > backup & restore * use a live wallpaper that does that (suggested in the comments by [<NAME>](https://android.stackexchange.com/users/12442/dan-hulme)) * restrict background data (from data usage menu) (suggested in the comments by [Izzy](https://android.stackexchange.com/users/16575/izzy)) The last option (restrict background data) is unfortunately not available for the single "Android OS" item and on my phone is activating a permanent (annoying!) notification in the notification drawer. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_8: I had this problem a few days ago on my Samsung Galaxy S7 running Android 6.0.1. The application "Android OS" used about 8 GB during two consecutive nights effectively using up my monthly data capacity. In order to find the cause for this, I did the following: go to Settings > Applications > Application Manager > More - Show System Apps and then click through each application (maybe beginning with the most likely suspects) and checking the data usage value for each. In my case, the data usage was caused by the "Samsung Cloud" v2.2.08 (which of course is not available on a Nexus device) and a misconfiguration under Settings > Samsung Cloud > More > Network settings where all items need to be switched ON in order to prevent synchronization over mobile data networks. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/27
430
1,705
<issue_start>username_0: I just purchased a 32 GB SD card for use with my Galaxy S3 which is running a 4.2.1 rom. Certain apps like Titanium Backup I was able to switch to start using the SD card just fine, but I can't for the life of me find a setting anywhere for the camera to start storing videos/photos there. Is this possible? I've googled lots, but all I can find is directions for older versions of Android, which aren't applicable to my setup.<issue_comment>username_1: Just in case you haven't found the setting for this, I stumbled upon it tonight on my 4.2.1 phone. I'd previously set it without realising (only just made the move over to Android) and after removing my SD card the other day, I found after I re-inserted it into the phone it would only save to the internal flash memory... I couldn't for the life of me figure out what I'd done! Finally figured it out:- Go to the main Android system settings menu and select Storage. The very top option is to select the default write disk - set this to SD card and back out of the menus. Job done. :) Cheers, Nick Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Here's how I did it: 1. Go into Camera as if you were taking a picture 2. Go into Settings (gear) on top left 3. Scroll down to Storage 4. Change to Memory Card Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Long press the screen when in camera, this will popup a menu, within there u can select settings, and change storage to sdcard. You can also press the flashlight button on the right to get that menu. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Change the Default Write Disk from Phone storage to SD card. Android Setting->Storage->Change the Default Write Disk Upvotes: 0
2013/02/27
1,226
3,919
<issue_start>username_0: I am trying to unlock bootloader for my HTC Legend. I have ADT (Android SDK according to release 21.1) on my Ubuntu/Linux box. While following the HTCDev instructions to unlock bootloader of HTC Legend. I can `adb devices` that results as under ``` List of devices attached HTXXXXXXXXXX device ``` But `fastboot devices` does not result any thing. When I reboot my phone to `FASTBOOT USB` mode and plug in the USB cable to phone and connect to PC/Ubuntu. `fastboot oem get_identifier_token` results as following and sit idle. `< waiting for device >` I have cross checked for certain things: * The default USB mode is Charge Only * The USB Debugging is enabled But on my ubuntu box there are no drivers and no HTC Sync installed. What am I missing here? Can I do it from Ubuntu, as I don't have windows? --- UPDATE: My device's HBOOT is 1.00.0000 --- UPDATE2: I just tried with `sudo fastboot devices` and returned. ``` HTXXXXXXXXXX fastboot ``` Now when I do `sudo fastboot oem get_identifier_token` it returns: ``` ... (bootloader) [ERR] Command error !!! OKAY [ 0.010s] finished. total time: 0.010s ```<issue_comment>username_1: It looks like your HBOOT needs to be upgraded to v1.02.0000 in order to use the HTCdev unlock method. The reason for this is that the Legend's bootloader did not originally ship with unlocking capabilities, so you need to upgrade to the version that added it. Unfortunately, the HTCdev site will give you an RUU to run, but since it's an .exe file it won't do you much good on Linux (even with wine it probably will balk). However, you can perform a manual flash instead: 1. Download this [LEGEIMG.zip](http://www.mediafire.com/?xy8zup74wajy5y5)1 file. This is the new 1.02 bootloader packaged as a zip. 2. Copy the zip file to the **root** of your SD card (as in, not in any subfolders) 3. Reboot to your bootloader however you like (`adb reboot bootloader` works, for example) 4. When HBOOT starts up it should tell you that it found an upgrade package on the SD card. Check the on-screen prompt and select "Yes" to let it flash the zip. 5. Reboot your phone into your bootloader again and verify that it's been updated to version 1.02. At this point you can follow the HTCdev unlocking instructions. --- 1Regarding this file: "username_1", you say, "I'm sure you're a trustworthy chap and all, but how do I know that this Mediafire download is legit?" Well, since your bootloader is currently *locked*, it will only flash images that have been digitally signed by HTC. Since modifying the contents of the zip file would invalidate the signature, you can rest assured that it is genuine and has not been tampered with. For complete instructions, including how to actually get the zip from the RUU yourself (which requires Windows), refer to [this XDA post](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=22613990&postcount=62). Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Linux users: If you're stuck in "waiting for device", make sure you run fastboot as root, such as: ``` $ sudo ./fastboot oem get_identifier_token ... (bootloader) (bootloader) < Please cut following message > (bootloader) <<<< Identifier Token Start >>>> (bootloader) C8750A7847621A009AAC7949E9B41A52 ... (bootloader) 7206C18600834B50AB6FA9F4A9AFC71C (bootloader) <<<<< Identifier Token End >>>>> OKAY [ 0.004s] finished. total time: 0.005s ``` Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Here a example to flash TWRP and LineageOS on a HTC One M8: ``` adb reboot bootloader fastboot oem get_identifier_token # Download Unlock_code.bin from htcdev.com https://www.htcdev.com/bootloader/token-submitted fastboot flash unlocktoken Unlock_code.bin fastboot flash recovery twrp-3.4.0-1-m8.img adb sideload lineage-17.1-20201009-nightly-m8-signed.zip adb sideload open_gapps-arm-10.0-micro-20201010.zip ``` Upvotes: 0
2013/02/28
984
3,413
<issue_start>username_0: With the command `adb pull /sdcard/` I can copy all the contents of the internal memory of my Android phone into my current local directory. And `adb pull /mnt/extSdCard/` does the same with the external SD card. But that command always copies everything, even files I already have stored locally. Is there any way to copy only new and modified files? (files with a **newer date**)<issue_comment>username_1: `adb pull` [doesn't seem to provide a flag to pull selected files](http://developer.android.com/tools/help/adb.html). As a workaround, you can do this: Use `adb shell [Unix shell command]` to copy selected files to a temporary location and then pull all files from that location. **Update:** You can use `cp -u [source] [destination]` unix shell command to copy only modified files on subsequent run. You can also use `-r` flag to use it on subdirectories recursive, if its required. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As described by ss-3-1415926535897932384626433 there is no flag, but you have to get a list of files first and then check if your local files match. I wrote a little script for it: ``` #!/bin/sh rfolder=/sdcard/DCIM/Camera lfolder=Camera adb shell ls "$rfolder" > android.files ls -1 "$lfolder" > local.files rm -f update.files touch update.files while IFS= read -r q; do # Remove non-printable characters (are not visible on console) l=$(echo ${q} | sed 's/[^[:print:]]//') # Populate files to update if ! grep -q "$l" local.files; then echo "$l" >> update.files fi done < android.files script_dir=$(pwd) cd $lfolder while IFS= read -r q; do # Remove non-printable characters (are not visible on console) l=$(echo ${q} | sed 's/[^[:print:]]//') echo "Get file: $l" adb pull "$rfolder/$l" done < "${script_dir}"/update.files ``` Adjust the remote folder `rfolder` and the local folder `lfolder` to locations of your own choice. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: adb-sync - small, yet powerfull python script that can do all your asked and more... <https://github.com/google/adb-sync> Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: Though not fully documented, starting with 27.0.1 aka platform tools r27 (not before) the following can be used: ``` adb push --sync local/ device/ # adb pull --sync -a device/. local/ ``` (note the trailing dot on `adb pull`; without that you'd end up with `local/device/*`, [see here](/q/250128/16575); also the `-a` is needed only here to keep the timestamps of the files intact) Not directly related to `adb push`: file permissions are not kept, which is probably due to the file system used. Files pushed to the internal SD card will always be set to `0660` and on the external card to `0771`, which I could not even change using `adb shell chmod` on the device itself (though I received no error either on trying). If you need more options as you might know them from `rsync` (e.g. `--delete` or `--exclude`), you can also take a look at the Python script [better-adb-sync](https://github.com/SelfAdjointOperator/better-adb-sync). **Update:** running a few tests it seems `--sync` is simply ignored with `adb pull` even if no error is thrown: **newer files on target have been overwritten!** Not sure if implementation is planned, but with r27 being released in 2018 I'd not place a bet on that. With `push` it works as advertized, though. Upvotes: 2
2013/02/28
943
3,218
<issue_start>username_0: I lost my android mobile, but I haven't logged out of gmail account, since using the device, I must log on. So if someone take it, he/she may access my gmail account. What should I do now?<issue_comment>username_1: `adb pull` [doesn't seem to provide a flag to pull selected files](http://developer.android.com/tools/help/adb.html). As a workaround, you can do this: Use `adb shell [Unix shell command]` to copy selected files to a temporary location and then pull all files from that location. **Update:** You can use `cp -u [source] [destination]` unix shell command to copy only modified files on subsequent run. You can also use `-r` flag to use it on subdirectories recursive, if its required. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As described by ss-3-1415926535897932384626433 there is no flag, but you have to get a list of files first and then check if your local files match. I wrote a little script for it: ``` #!/bin/sh rfolder=/sdcard/DCIM/Camera lfolder=Camera adb shell ls "$rfolder" > android.files ls -1 "$lfolder" > local.files rm -f update.files touch update.files while IFS= read -r q; do # Remove non-printable characters (are not visible on console) l=$(echo ${q} | sed 's/[^[:print:]]//') # Populate files to update if ! grep -q "$l" local.files; then echo "$l" >> update.files fi done < android.files script_dir=$(pwd) cd $lfolder while IFS= read -r q; do # Remove non-printable characters (are not visible on console) l=$(echo ${q} | sed 's/[^[:print:]]//') echo "Get file: $l" adb pull "$rfolder/$l" done < "${script_dir}"/update.files ``` Adjust the remote folder `rfolder` and the local folder `lfolder` to locations of your own choice. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: adb-sync - small, yet powerfull python script that can do all your asked and more... <https://github.com/google/adb-sync> Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: Though not fully documented, starting with 27.0.1 aka platform tools r27 (not before) the following can be used: ``` adb push --sync local/ device/ # adb pull --sync -a device/. local/ ``` (note the trailing dot on `adb pull`; without that you'd end up with `local/device/*`, [see here](/q/250128/16575); also the `-a` is needed only here to keep the timestamps of the files intact) Not directly related to `adb push`: file permissions are not kept, which is probably due to the file system used. Files pushed to the internal SD card will always be set to `0660` and on the external card to `0771`, which I could not even change using `adb shell chmod` on the device itself (though I received no error either on trying). If you need more options as you might know them from `rsync` (e.g. `--delete` or `--exclude`), you can also take a look at the Python script [better-adb-sync](https://github.com/SelfAdjointOperator/better-adb-sync). **Update:** running a few tests it seems `--sync` is simply ignored with `adb pull` even if no error is thrown: **newer files on target have been overwritten!** Not sure if implementation is planned, but with r27 being released in 2018 I'd not place a bet on that. With `push` it works as advertized, though. Upvotes: 2
2013/02/28
416
1,494
<issue_start>username_0: It's kinda disturbing when people keep calling me during work or meetings, but to me it's okay if I receive short messages or Whatsapp message because I can reply them few minutes later in a short break. I'm new Android user and wonder if my phone could do that for me.<issue_comment>username_1: Try this: 1. Go to Contact list 2. Select contact 3. Open menu, and press the "Block" button (or "Add to blocklist") I also found [Call Guard](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.smartone.callguard) in the Play Store. Maybe you take a look at it. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can use the tried and tested `Call Barring` method 1. `Go to Settings` 2. Select `Call Settings` 3. Look for `Call barring` 4. Now select `All Incoming` 5. Enter your default PIN (1234) There, all incoming calls will be blocked. You may still be able to place calls unless you barred that too. This feature is carrier network dependent and it already exists in the dumbphone era. Still useful though. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Go to call forwarding menu and forward all calls to voicemail Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: (At least in some phones, for example LG G3) there's an option for this: `Settings` / `Networks` / `Call` / (select `Common` if this is dual SIM device) / `Call reject`. You can select `Reject all calls` in `Call reject mode` to reject all calls automatically. ![screenshot](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LkjTA.png) Upvotes: 1
2013/02/28
288
1,098
<issue_start>username_0: The notification LED in my device is always blinking. There's nothing in the notification area and it keeps blinking. Sometimes its a dark blue / violet and sometimes it changes to a white light. I Don't understand if this is an expected or unexpected behavior. I presume the notification light should be related to the notification area and should stop when it is cleaned. I read here [LED wont turn off](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/21815/led-wont-turn-off) that I should try reseting it. I'll try it if works I post here again.<issue_comment>username_1: If your device is no more in an area where it can reach GSM network, the notification LED will blink (in white if you installed LightFlow). Still with LightFlow installed, the dark blie/violet blinking is the notification of a new SMS. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I read here LED wont turn off that I should try reseting it. And that's all I needed to fix this problem. [LED wont turn off](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/21815/led-wont-turn-off) Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer]
2013/02/28
1,869
7,513
<issue_start>username_0: Summary ------- by Izzy It seems the SD card in the **LG Marquee** has some errors causing a boot loop once the *Media Scanner* runs (or immediately when it's finished). Taking out the card seems to solve the issue, but then its content cannot be accessed. The original post is... TL;DR ----- I'm a new user and I'm having a terribly annoying problem with my phone. I have an **LG Marquee** with *Boost Mobile*. A few hours ago, I opened up my gallery and the screen froze, then a force-close option popped up (which happens a lot with this phone so I'm used to it & thought it'd just force-close & then go back to normal as usual). Instead, the screen went blank & the blue icons (home, options, back, search) started flashing. My phone had restarted completely: I had no service, my wallpaper was blank, etc. My phone does this a lot actually, but will just go back to normal. This time it started up normal, but the SD card icon appeared on my notifications bar & it read "checking SD card for errors". Typically this would occur but then the "Media Scanner is Running" icon would appear & my phone would be fine. The "media scanner running" pop up never appeared, and the blue icons just started flashing again as the screen went blank, only to reboot once again. My phone kept rebooting itself repeatedly for about an hour every minute or two (making it impossible to make a call or send a text!!) Then I finally just turned it off. Every time it'd reboot, it'd last a couple minutes & the "media scanner running" pop up would come up, then it'd reboot all over again. Seems as though the media scanner triggers the reboot :/ After reading through many posts on the Internet about this issue, I tried a few things. In attempting to fix the problem, I realized that this issue has nothing to do with my phone itself or the battery - it's the SD card. I haven't dropped my phone at all lately and typically refrain from downloading extra apps that I really don't need. Mostly my SD card is taken up by photos, texts, videos, contacts, & three or four extra apps. The last app I downloaded was last night, it was a photo/gallery organizing app. When the reboots started occurring, I quickly uninstalled the app but it didn't fix the problem. The SD card doesn't look physically damaged at all, & neither does the small port it goes in. I use a 2GB micro SD card, the one that came with the phone when I bought it (not the best choice, I know, I just figured I could make due with it). **I can run my phone perfectly fine** without the impeccably annoying reboots occurring **if I take the SD card out**. The problem is that I obviously need my pictures and videos and other apps, etc. I had quite a few photos and videos, all of which I would be completely devastated and flat out pi\*\*ed off to lose (especially because I had a lot of photos of a close friend that passed away recently in my gallery. Losing those would really make me sooo mad!) All I can do on my phone right now is access the internet, make calls, texts but I have none of my pics/vids & almost none of my apps. Please help me!! Not only do I want my media and apps back, the constant rebooting is a level of annoying I can't even begin to describe!! I would literally appreciate it so much if someone could help me fix this issue (without having to reformat my SD card and lose everything)': ) and would be forever grateful!! I don't know how you reward/give a thanks to someone that helps you out on here, but I'd happily do it for anyone that can help me fix this problem ASAP. I'm soo unbelievably frustrated, please help me. Thanks so much! (BTW, my phone is not rooted and none if my photos, videos, or other SD card things are backed up - dumb, I know!! I'm learning my lesson right now, unfortunately) **UPDATE/EDIT:** I have been trying different tricks and tips from others, nothing has solved the problem but I did notice that the media scanner will actually complete scanning and even load my gallery, apps, etc. and show me that the SD card has been mounted but will automatically reboot all over again by itself about 10 seconds later. It's so frustrating that the card is loading and all my stuff is right there in front of me, but then my phone reboots by itself!<issue_comment>username_1: Something very similar happened to me not long ago. The SD card, when inserted into the phone, would cause the phone to be very unresponsive and eventually reboot itself, over and over, as long as the card was plugged in. Now for the bad news. I inserted a different SD card, which worked just fine in the phone. So I took the malfunctioning SD card and attempted to reformat it on my computer, but after reinserting it into the phone, the phone still claimed it was a "Damaged SD card" and refused to do anything with it - even format it again! Though it did stop boot looping. After talking with Verizon it seems the SD card really was defective and I'm getting a replacement. I hope you are able to recover some of your files from the card before you have to replace it, or that you have backups (though it sounds like you don't). Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I had a somewhat similar experience with a card set up as internal storage (Android Go edition which is slimmed down Oreo), except that I've never seen signs of a "media scanner". The reboots were rare at first and then everything worked fine again; but suddenly it began restarting continuously, during the boot sequence itself, until I pulled out the card. Managed to resolve it, at least long enough to recover all data, but I'm not sure what the cure was. It might be: * Rewriting the data on the SD card * Making Android believe the card is corrupt and then reconciling it * Just sending the card on an exciting trip, letting circuits discharge or recharge or cool down or heat up Anyway, the steps one could follow in detail: 1. On a Linux PC with a card reader, find out which device the card is on (`sudo fdisk -l /dev/sdX` where sdX stands for one of sdb, sdc, sdd...) 2. Dump all data to a file with `dd if=/dev/sdX of=my_dump bs=4M` (where dd = data dump, if=input file, of=output file, bs=block size) 3. Probably you can skip everything below until step 11. 4. Wipe the identity and partitioning with `dd if=/dev/zero of=/dev/sdX bs=4M count=1` 5. Insert the card into the Android device: it now recognizes it as a new, blank card 6. Format the card in Android and eject it. 7. Move the card back to the PC. 8. Restore the first block: `dd if=my_dump of=/dev/sdX bs=4M count=1` 9. Move the card back to the Android device: it now recognizes it as the old internal storage, but says it's corrupt (because it changed other blocks while formatting). 10. Move the card back to the PC. 11. Restore the card entirely: `dd if=my_dump of=/dev/sdX bs=4M` 12. Move the card back to the Android device Epilogue: Obviously, the rebooting came back, after a few days of normal operation. I repeatedly and in vain tried to repair it with the above procedure, and some variations of it, and it just kept rebooting. But as soon as I restored the earlier contents of the card extracted before posting this (the exact contents it had when the incessant rebooting started), it resumed normal operation. Also, a few weeks later, an identical Micro-SD card of the same age, in a completely unrelated audio device suddenly blocked the machine, then after taking it out a few times resumed as if nothing had happened. Upvotes: 1
2013/02/28
1,023
4,342
<issue_start>username_0: I have a calendar containing only regularly recuring dates. I would like to hide this calendar or these dates from the ordinary Google calendar app and the Google calendar widget. The reminder notifications of these dates should not be disabled. I activated synchronization in the Google calendar app and deactivated the display calender. Now the dates do are not being displayed, neither in the app nor in the widget, but I either do not receive the reminder notifications. P.S. What is the difference between those two settings?<issue_comment>username_1: The easiest way to achieve this is to install a 3rd party calendar app which uses the Google calendar backend, and tell that app to not show that specific calendar, while leaving it enabled in the default Google calendar app ([aCalendar](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.withouthat.acalendar) would be a good and relatively light-weight choice here). As the Google calendar is responsible for the alerts, you still would get them (and the corresponding notifications), while its content wouldn't disturb you working with the 3rd party app. I do something similar, and use the mentioned app, so I really can recommend it. To the detail question: Synchronization is what the name suggests: updating changes made on either side (for a disabled calendar, obviously only in one direction). It's probably separated from (de)activating a calendar so you can activate it up-to-date even when having no network connection -- just my guess, but that would make sense. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: An imperfect solution is to use [Google Keep](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.keep&hl=en) (following [this suggestion on Reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/AndroidQuestions/comments/3fslwj/is_it_possible_to_continue_receiving_calendar/ctrlh66/)). This means you can't, as I desire, look at Google Calendar and toggle the reminders briefly visible. For that, you could try sharing the reminders-specific calendar with a different Google account and then syncing that account with a 3rd party Calendar app that handles reminders (while still keeping the Google Calendar Android app synced with your main Google account, where the reminders-specific calendar is hidden). Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I know the original post is now ancient but I haven't found any recent discussion on this and I believe the behavior is still basically the same. That is, if a calendar is "hidden" on your mobile device, you will not get a notification for any of it's event. Much like the OP, I wanted to schedule recurring tasks (clean cat litter, take out trash) at specific days/times and then get reminded of them on my phone WITHOUT cluttering up my calendar on web OR android version of google calendar. I found **google tasks** to be a great solution to this, as: 1. I can add/modify/view these events on either phone (tasks app) or web\* (calendar.google.com) 2. They don't appear at all in android's gcal 3. I can hide them from web gcal and still get notifications As an added bonus, because the notifications on my phone come from the tasks app (and not gcal) I can set a different notification sound/vibe pattern to differentiate these less important chores from potentially important events. Also, I really like the ability to "mark as complete" as opposed to just dismissing an event notification (this behavior is similar to google reminders, but unlike tasks, hiding reminders from gcal *does* disable notifications) [Here's a great post on the differences between google tasks and reminders](https://ericgregorich.com/blog/differences-between-google-reminders-and-google-tasks) The one missing piece that I'm still searching for is the ability to share these chores with someone so that, for example, my wife and I can both mark chores as complete and then the other one will know it doesn't need to be done. \*Edit: I just realized you can't create a *recurring* task from web gcal, but you definitely can from the tasks app (and then still view all of them on web) so this is only a minor annoyance. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: How about having a seperate Google acount and use google tasks on the other one only for those you don't want to pop up in your main calendar? Upvotes: 0
2013/02/28
635
2,576
<issue_start>username_0: Or in other words: **How to show more dates in Google's calender widget?** The next date I added to my Google calender is an appointment I have in eight days from now. The Google calender widget does not show this appointment. Right now there are no other dates added to this calendar. So the problem is not, that there are to many dates. The problem is that the widget does not look into the future far enough. I want to see my next date, even if it is still a month to go. 1. How can I make the widget display dates that are scheduled farther in the future than it does now? 2. Is it possible to display all future dates? Of course the display of regularly repeated dates must be limited, but I would like to see at least the next scheduled of each one. 3. What is the reason, that this is not already the case? This seems really odd to me, because it does not look very complicated to find all the appointments in a database or sync them. To me it seems to be more work to limit those features this way. P.S.: I just saw that the "date-list-view" of Google's calendar app (not the widget this time) does show dates, weeks ahead. I don't see any limitation. I would like the widget to behave the same way.<issue_comment>username_1: I just downloaded off widget from Google Apps called simple calendar. once you install the widget on to your home screen then you go to the apps area and single tap on the simple calendar icon. takes you into the settings for the simple calendar widget and you will be amazed to see how many different ways you can customize the calendar. you go into one area where you can select how many days to see on your calendar. you can even mix items from several gmail accounts. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I lost *S. Planner Agenda* when upgrading to Jellybean. Can't find it anywhere at Playstore. Just download [Agenda Widget for Android](http://www.appbrain.com/app/com.roflharrison.agenda). I spent a few hours during some downtime mucking around with it, because it was addictive just working with the settings. It's free at the store. Can display up to 150 lines of future dates / events. "everybody all the time" is listed as the creator. They have a [paid version](http://www.appbrain.com/app/com.roflharrison.agenda.plus) too; less than $2 AUD. I still can't work out the paid version benefits. I just wish they also brought back Google Calendar Sync, it synced my home computer Outlook calendar with Gmail calendar, my wife's iPhone calendar, and my Galaxy S2 now running Jellybean. Upvotes: 0
2013/02/28
373
1,443
<issue_start>username_0: Today, all of a sudden I saw this app in my *Samsung Galaxy Y* mobile phone: ![screenshot with google settings](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xdgnj.png) I am talking about the app named `"Google Settings"` I uninstalled it immediately only to find it installed again a few hours later. My mobile phone is rooted and I did have access to internet through the phone during this period? Can anyone tell me as to what is going on? Should I worry? What should I do?<issue_comment>username_1: The Google settings app is being put their either by the Maps app, Search app, or the Google+ app. It's a unified settings/sign-in thing they just added in literally yesterday and allows you to manage the settings for all of the above (and probably more in future) from one menu. <http://www.engadget.com/2013/02/27/google-settings-app-sneaks-onto-android-to-bolster-g-sign-in/> Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I unistalled google play services and that removed it from the phone. Not sure what else will be affected but I am still able to download/install apps from play store. I figure I may miss the next version of play store that comes out. Better than them sneaking stuff in Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: It's part of the Google Play Services app. You cannot remove it unless you remove Play Services. It gives you settings for Google apps, like Maps, Games, Device Manager etc. Upvotes: 2
2013/03/01
678
2,718
<issue_start>username_0: I have a HTC One S with Android 4.1.1 installed. I recently got the "google settings" app and checked the settings in there. Under the field "location" is a switch to "Let google apps access your location" with a note that apps may access your location while the app is not being used. If I switch that off, the GPS is not activated when I start google maps - and therefore renders it pretty useless for me. I even get a message telling me to switch google location on if I want to have a location based map. So here is the question: When this setting is switched on, do I risk that other apps (google search or whatever else I have installed from google) will take my location from the Wifi connection or cell tower and transmit it to google for storage, or even the GPS data? Is there any way to enable GPS in maps but not my location for all other apps, too? I am worried that the setting is a "Either you do not use Google maps, or we will know and record whenever, wherever you are". Is that the case? I have so far only [this question here](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/30715/is-there-a-way-to-get-gps-to-work-without-google-location-service-constantly-ena) but it seems to say there that the google location service does not affect GPS - but for me it does.<issue_comment>username_1: That strongly depends on the app used. Unfortunately, since Froyo (Android 2.2) the options "use location service" and "permit Google to collect" are connected and undividable (before you could chose them separately). So if an app uses the Google Framework's location service to obtain position data, it won't work without that service enabled. If it accesses GPS itself, it would work with or without. Only way out of this trouble would be to root the device, and then use a permission protector like e.g. [LBE Privacy Guard](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lbe.security.lite) or [PDroid Privacy Protection](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.privacy.pdroid) / [PDroid Manager](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.digitalfeed.pdroidalternative), which let you decide on a per-app basis which app is permitted to access a service/certain data (many possibilities here, not only location). Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: My experience proofs is the same - original google maps are not working without the GPS being ON (on android 6). (But it works without access to the GPS). When the GPS is off it just request a permission. After GPS on - it is working, I don't know what is google doing with my GPS data and why it is not possible to run this app without any GPS - as the desktop/browser version. Upvotes: 0
2013/03/01
331
1,030
<issue_start>username_0: I'm working on an email app for Android, and I'd like to install the Gmail apk on my emulator in order to test it. How can I do that? I have seen tutorials on how to do it on windows, but I'm working with Linux.<issue_comment>username_1: Sync your Google account in emulator, and go to Play Store. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Steps: Go to sdk/platform-tools with the command `cd /home/android-sdk/platform-tools` you should copy the `.apk` you want to install in this directory and add the path of it to environment variable in variable PATH "you might need restart"`(PATH=$PATH:path to apk)` List the devices with the command ./adb devices You can install your file with ./adb install .filename.apk Example for step 2 : > > ./adb devices > > > List of devices attached > > emulator-5554 device > > > Example for step 3 : > > ./adb install AndExplorer.apk > > > 1083 KB/s (338651 bytes in 0.305s) > > pkg: /data/local/tmp/AndExplorer.apk > > Success > > > Upvotes: 0
2013/03/01
1,090
4,096
<issue_start>username_0: I've stored some images in Google Drive, and I'd like to view them on my tablet. The problem is, I can only view them one at a time and the procedure goes something like this: 1. Open Drive. 2. Navigate to image folder. 3. Select image to view. 4. View image. 5. Press back. 6. Select another image to view (while trying to remember which image I just viewed, so I don't view it again). 7. Repeat steps 3 - 6. If I could download the files onto the tablet, I could view them in the default image viewing application and the procedure is more like this: 1. Select image to view. 2. Slide left/right to view next/previous image. Is there a way to download the files stored on Google Drive to an Android device? --- Update: ======= I found a slightly awkward workaround. If you login to Google Drive using a web browser, clicking on the image will download it to `/storage/sdcard0/Download/`. You can then view the images using the default image viewer application. --- Update: ======= After this question was asked, there have been many updates to the Google Drive app. Saving files to the device is now quite easy. * Click the three dot menu button below a file, and choose Download. * Long Press to select the file. Press the three dot menu button of the app, and choose download (can be used on multiple selected files). * Probably other ways I haven't described here. Also, the primary problem I was having has been solved. You can now swipe to view the next/previous photo. Thank you for all the answers, but this question is now obsolete.<issue_comment>username_1: This may not be helpful, but when I long press any file and set it to "Make available offline", it ends up in `/storage/sdcard0/Android/data/com.google.android.apps.docs/files/pinned_docs_files_do_not_edit/{hexadecimal string}/`. From there you should be able to copy them to some other location. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I'd recommend using a file manager, e.g. the Astro File Manager. There you can access your dropbox, google drive, box, ... and copy files and whole folders to a local folder. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: You can use [ES File Explorer](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.estrongs.android.pop). To get connected: ----------------- 1. Press the settings button on the phone, or the app. ![Settings icon](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jllRZ.png) 2. Expand the Network list, and click Cloud. 3. Click New, and choose Gdrive. ![New icon](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hPj8o.png)![Gdrive icon](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0515i.png) 4. Enter your Google credentials, accept the terms, and you're all set up. To copy a file to the phone: ---------------------------- 1. Locate the file on Gdrive through ES File Explorer. 2. Long press the file. 3. Press `More`, then `Copy to`. 4. Select the location to copy the file to, and press `OK`. ### OR... 1. Locate the file on Gdrive through ES File Explorer. 2. Long press the file. 3. Press `Copy`. 4. Navigate to the location you want the file. 5. Press `Paste`. Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_4: [Astro File Manager with Clouds](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.metago.astro) works great. Took less than 5 minutes to install and start copying folders from Google Drive to my Android. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: It's actually very simply. Drive has that option built in. You just go to the options and click on download a copy. It will download the file into your download folder. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: If you want to automatically keep a sub-set of your Drive synced to your device (as in, everything that shows up in selected Drive folders gets automatically downloaded to your device), you might look at [DriveSync](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ttxapps.drivesync) from MetaCtrl. I've used their equivalent app for DropBox for years and their stuff works great. Once configured, it will automatically (you set the check time) download items from your Drive to your device and vice-versa. Upvotes: 1
2013/03/01
760
2,719
<issue_start>username_0: Hello fellow Android enthusasts, I recently bought a Nexus7 that I want to use for development. The thing is, every time I connect it to my USB, in order to test some apps on it, it starts charging. Now, i know that this is absolutely normal for every device, but I am also concerned that the constant charge/discharge cycles can shorten the life of the battery. What do I do? Do I need to get concerned at all? I mean, if it reduces battery life with something like 1% per year, I am totally fine with it. Yet, if it is a significant drain, how can I prevent it from charging unless I am charging from a charger?<issue_comment>username_1: Charge/discharge cycles are mostly irrelevant for li-ion batteries. The main source of capacity loss is simply time. [A li-ion battery sitting unused in storage will lose 15-20% of its capacity per year](http://www.che.sc.edu/faculty/popov/drbnp/WebSite/publications_pdfs/web21.pdf) (see charts on page 4). Any minor losses from cycling is going to get drowned out by that. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I haven't heard about number of charge cycles affecting battery life. However... <http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries> > > dwelling in a full state-of-charge for an extended time can be more > stressful than cycling. > > > Most Li-ions are charged to 4.20V/cell and every reduction of > 0.10V/cell is said to double cycle life. > > > Keeping Li-ion battery in high state of charge will reduce it's lifetime. Some laptops have Battery care function (software) to limit maximum charge to 80%. It's recommended by them if you routinely run on AC. On android there is some kernel modifications allowing you to limit maximum charge in similar fashion. (it's from 2011) <http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-s/development/mod-battery-life-extender-blx-t1257497> Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Have you guys ever heard of Chargie? It's a USB stick+Android app combo that limits charging externally (no root needed). Just install the stick between the charger and phone and use the app to select the charge level. Simple as that. Look for "chargie stick" on Google. Even if you want to charge to 100% - it will go there but disconnect power completely until charge goes down to 97% (a few hours). Then it will reapply charge, but that's way less stressful than normal trickle charging. However, given today's battery capacities, 90% is enough to get you out of most days. Disclosure: I am the CEO of Lighty Electronics. We developed Chargie and would love people who have had this issue to enjoy our product as much as we do. No spam, just the solution to the problem. Upvotes: 1
2013/03/02
302
1,032
<issue_start>username_0: I have a Nexus 7 3G and I often need to send network service commands (e.g., to use top-up codes or to activate/de-activate data-plans), but can't find a way to do it from the tablet. Instead I'm forced to take the SIM card out of the Nexus and put it into a mobile phone temporarily. Is there a way to do this directly from the Nexus 7?<issue_comment>username_1: I think [USSD Checker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.iba.ussdchecker&hl=en) is the app that you are looking for. It allows you to send USSD codes to your network without the use of a dialer. I haven't tried it myself though so comment whether it works or not would help. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: came across this, check if it helps. ...... i'm in indonesia, i use nexus 7 lte 2013, first i do is unlocked n root it. then i install ussd dialer from play store... voila.. its worked.. last thing i do is install xposed framework n xposed sms module.. no problemo with pre-paid card... heheheheh Upvotes: 1
2013/03/02
479
1,896
<issue_start>username_0: I have an Mi Traveler Android model 10R2 tablet and I am continuously getting a "memory low" message. I have added a SD card and moved some apps to the card, but still get the same messages. In checking the storage area, it shows the allocation of memory as follows: * Total space 3.09GB * Apps 84.95MB * Downloads 116MB * Misc. 19.16MB * Available 2.87GB Then under Apps, it shows the following: * Total space 252MB * Apps 204MB * Available 21.94MB Is there a way to adjust the memory allocation to increase the allocation for apps? It seems that I am only getting the low memory when apps are updating or new apps are being downloaded.<issue_comment>username_1: The listed amounts are for the internal memory. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: as it stands your internal memory is unable to increase. Adding a SD card will **only** increase space for music, pictures and some apps. My assumptions are that your phone is a lower end affordable device. These are plagued with smaller memory, that are almost always maxed out right out of the box. Your solutions are limited to your device and the applications you install. One solution would be to move as many apps to your SD card as possible. The problem lies with many apps not supporting this feature. Second solution would be to run only the apps your phone came with and not update them. Of course this is not what a user would want, and is not recommended. The last option would be to buy a new phone with internal space of at least 4GB to not run into this trouble, of course the more internal space the better. Also note that alot of apps use more space because higher end phones have the ability to have them installed. This leaves lower end phones in trouble because they can no longer run the apps they use to. Sorry to be bearer of bad news, I hope this information was of help. Upvotes: 1
2013/03/02
361
1,557
<issue_start>username_0: I bought a used Coolpad, but like new. Whenever I try to download an app, be it an old one already installed on old phone or a new, never before loaded one, it keeps wanting to send data to old phone, an LG Admire. In the box, looking for device compatibility, only the old phones model number comes up.<issue_comment>username_1: The listed amounts are for the internal memory. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: as it stands your internal memory is unable to increase. Adding a SD card will **only** increase space for music, pictures and some apps. My assumptions are that your phone is a lower end affordable device. These are plagued with smaller memory, that are almost always maxed out right out of the box. Your solutions are limited to your device and the applications you install. One solution would be to move as many apps to your SD card as possible. The problem lies with many apps not supporting this feature. Second solution would be to run only the apps your phone came with and not update them. Of course this is not what a user would want, and is not recommended. The last option would be to buy a new phone with internal space of at least 4GB to not run into this trouble, of course the more internal space the better. Also note that alot of apps use more space because higher end phones have the ability to have them installed. This leaves lower end phones in trouble because they can no longer run the apps they use to. Sorry to be bearer of bad news, I hope this information was of help. Upvotes: 1
2013/03/02
515
1,820
<issue_start>username_0: I used to run CyanogenMod 9.1 with device encryption on my Galaxy S3, and decided today that I wanted to try a CM 10 nightly. A problem with device encryption that I didn't know about before is that it's impossible to turn off. ClockworkMod Recovery (5.8.4.3) can't mount the `/data` partition (and, by extension, `/sdcard`). This means that I can't use CWM to factory reset or install a new update.zip, since the update.zip must lie on the internal sdcard. Trying "choose zip from sdcard" gives "E:Can't mount /sdcard/" and choosing "apply /sdcard/update.zip" gives "E:Can't mount /sdcard/update.zip". This happens even if I've used `adb` to put the update.zip in the `/sdcard` mountpoint. Factory resetting from CWM gives these two errors: "Error mounting /data!" and "Error mounting /sdcard/.android\_secure!". Factory resetting from CM9 didn't work. I've since tried to flash CM10 with MobileOdin, which didn't work, and now I can only boot to CWM. Does anyone have any idea about how I could mount `/data` or otherwise get a working ROM? I've taken backups of everything. The tools I suppose could help me, but I haven't tried because I'm new at this and don't want to hard-brick my phone, are fastboot and heimdall. TL;DR: S3 only boots to CWM, but CWM won't mount `/data` and so can't flash zips.<issue_comment>username_1: I fixed mine right now. Using Odin, load the original image of your phone from the exact provider in pda. *Now, it's like brand new.* P.S. You have to unrar the image file, or Odin won't see it. After you unrar, it should have a MD5 file. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Have you tried to reboot to the bootloader? You can do so using `adb reboot bootloader`. From there, you can flash `boot.img` and `system.img`. Look at fastboot options. Upvotes: 0
2013/03/02
758
2,674
<issue_start>username_0: I experience problems trying to root my HTC Sensation. I turned **USB Debugging ON**, checked that **Fast boot** is turned **ON** in **Settings > Power** section and connected phone to PC. ![USB Debugging turned on](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Xqxdh.jpg) My device was recognized successfully ![Device was recognized](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6YPWU.png) Also it was shown in adb list ``` C:\sdk\platform-tools>adb.exe devices * daemon not running. starting it now on port 5037 * * daemon started successfully * List of devices attached HT15LVXXXXXX device ``` Now i took out my battery, inserted that back, pushed and hold Power button and Volume Down and voila, i am in **HBOOT**. I pressed Power button once, choosing **FASTBOOT** ![FASTBOOT](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DZ7gv.jpg) My phone connected to Windows, but this time device was **not recognized**. ![Unknown Device](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lXOgd.png) I tried to add drivers for that device manually, but it failed ![Failed drivers](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vNxTL.png) I even tried to add **%MyHTC%=HTCAND32.Dev, USB\UNKNOWN** to **androidusb.inf** and then add driver manually, but device was not working anyway and **fastboot devices** command returned empty list. I tried same operations on my Mac using fastboot-mac for that and i got same result as on Windows - device is not recognized in fastboot mode. Any ideas?<issue_comment>username_1: you need to unlock thebootloader first before doing anything... the screen shot shows that your phone is still locked you can do that on HTCDEV site Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Hey if somebody searches for an answer to this. I have solved it by adding a key in the registry. In `Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\usbflags\0BB40FF00100` (The "cryptic" hex-number at the end is the VID, PID and REV value of the Hardware-id you can see under Details) if that key isn't existing (mine was) create it. Then add a Binary Value `SkipBOSDescriptorQuery` and set it to `01 00 00 00` When I did that it "magically" worked on my Windows 10 vers 20H2 Build 19042.928 after a reconnect of the USB device. *Why does this work?* As far as I can deduce, this BOS Descriptor is a fairly new thing in USB 3 and was backported to USB 2.1. Windows is requesting that from the phone's USB device and that or the driver isn't new enough to consider/disable this BOSDescriptorQuery and only delivers garbage to device enumeration. The drive/OS is confused and refuses to properly work. My bet is that the driver for such of an old phone isn't worked on anymore to consider this failure mode. Upvotes: 2
2013/03/03
1,570
5,500
<issue_start>username_0: I have a Nexus 10. I want to split screen to do two things at the same time. Is that possible in Android? 3rd-party apps are acceptable too.<issue_comment>username_1: As of this writing, only a few Android devices offer multi-window functionality out-of-the-box. Samsung built this feature into 4.1.2 OS version for several of their Android tablets ([Galaxy Note 10.1](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tjHMEkBFhsg) and Galaxy Note 2, for example.) There are some major drawbacks to this. First, it's a proprietary Samsung feature that only comes with their TouchWiz overlay, and therefore is not compatible with "vanilla" Android OS. Second, apps must be specifically written to support this feature. Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: While I don't believe that there are currently any [window managers available for Android](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/32870/) devices (except where some manufacturers, like Samsung may build this in) there are some other options that may work for you, depending what you're after, by optionally floating some other apps or features over or alongside your current app. * There are some third party Android web browsers that can "float" a window over your current window, and can be dismissed or brought to the front very easily: [OverSkreen](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.myboyfriendisageek.airbrowser) (formerly known as AirBrowser), or [Floating Browser Flux](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=gpc.myweb.hinet.net.PopupWeb) * There are some small utilities like [two](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.psc.fukumoto.FloatCalc) [calculators](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.aptapps.floatingcalculator) or [Terminals](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.myboyfriendisageek.airterm) that can also be floated over your current window. * [Quickdesk](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=sg.ruqqq.quickdesk) is an app that can put a floating toolbar over other apps, giving you quick access to other apps. * If you're finding the keyboard is getting in the way, and you'd rather it floated over other apps, then you may find some of this question's answers helpful: [How can I “split” the virtual keyboard when typing on a large display in landscape mode?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/23838/) * Although it needs custom written widgets/apps, you may also find that the [Chameleon Launcher](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.chameleonlauncher) can do what you want as it specialises in arranging tiled windows of information/apps alongside each other ([website](http://www.chameleonlauncher.com/)). Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Tested on a Samsung Note 10.1 (SM-P605) with Android 4.3 i found some apps which are supporting multi window, e.g: * My Files (\*) * stock Video Player * MX Player * stock email app * Gmail * stock Webbrowser (\*) * Chrome * Gallery * Contacts * Phone * Google maps * Polaris Office 5 * WhatsApp * Facebook * Watch now * Chat on (\*) * Google Play Store But there are really very few apps capable to run with multiple instances (from the above list only those which are marked with (\*)). So, you can for example open `My Files` twice (left & right of upper & lower half screen) ![Screenshot My Files side by side](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FY0sX.png) Unfortunally, `Polaris Office 5` (pdf viewer) isn't capable to run twice. So if you want to view 2 pdf docs side by side, it seems that you have to install a 2nd pdf viewer app (see [here](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/59791/how-to-read-2-or-more-documents-side-by-side-in-android/63055)). Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: [Sideload Xposed Framework and install the XMultiWindow module.](http://www.howtogeek.com/189345/how-to-get-multi-window-multitasking-on-any-android-phone-or-tablet/) > > Open the XMultiWindow app from your app drawer to get started. Tap > Sidebar Settings in the app, tap Sidebar App Settings, and use the Add > button to add the apps you want to multitask with here. The apps you > add to this list will appear in the sidebar so you can open them in > split-screen mode. > > > Tap the Open Sidebar option in the XMultiWindow app to launch the > sidebar, and then swipe in from the left side of your screen. The > sidebar will appear at the left side of your screen above other > running apps — it functions like a floating app. > > > To open an app in split-screen mode, long-press the app’s shortcut > icon in the sidebar and tap Add to up Workspace or Add to down > Workspace. If your screen is oriented horizontally, you’ll see the Add > to left Workspace and Add to right Workspace options instead. > > > When you’ve opened the apps you want to use, swipe down from the top > of the screen to open the notification shade and tap the Sidebar > Running notification. This closes the sidebar, freeing up your screen > space. You can always swipe in from the left again if you want to view > the sidebar and open another app. > > > You’ll then be able to use both apps alongside each other. Here we’re > watching a video while browsing the web — the kind of powerful > multitasking that’s still impossible on most tablets and mobile > operating systems today! > > > [![split-screen-multi-window-multitasking-on-android-tablet](https://i.stack.imgur.com/69K0x.png)](https://i.stack.imgur.com/69K0x.png) > > > Upvotes: 1
2013/03/03
709
2,612
<issue_start>username_0: I recently had some issues with my LG Marquee and had to copy the SD Card's contents to my PC, then put those contents onto a new SD Card to salvage my media content(photos, videos, apps, etc.) When I inserted the new SD Card with my content on it, my phone took the content but it all (all 3,548 items) were placed into *one* single folder in my Gallery. My question is: **How can I separate/organize these items into new and separate folders in the Gallery?** Is there a specific way on my phone that I can do this, or do I need to download a photo organizing app? If so, what photo organizing apps are safe and secure? Thank You!<issue_comment>username_1: I tried to open my Gallery, but couldn't see any pictures on it. Anyway, I use the [QuickPic](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.alensw.PicFolder) app to manage my photos. It is able to show the different folders that have pictures in it. Check it out. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: My work-around is connect my phone via USB mode, where it comes up as a folder (or volume for you Mac fans) that you can see contents in. Create folders you'd like to have in your gallery, like "Favorite Piks" or "Stuff I found in my pockets" - whatever. Put these in that folder. Now use your computer to organize the images between folders within that main volume, save on your home computer, delete, so forth. When you detach from the USB link, your gallery on the phone should show those new folders you created and the images you transferred over. Please note that any NEW images, photos you download or take with the phone will likely be placed in one of any generic folders like "Downloads" or "Pictures". t0mm13b's Edit ============== Pre-requisites: * [ADB](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/40024/whats-adb-and-why-is-it-used-for-how-do-i-install-it-on-my-device/40051#40051) is installed. * comfortable with Command line. By going onto the command line, and issue this command: `adb shell am start -n com.android.development/.MediaScannerActivity` The above command line will force Android to re-read the SDCard and quickly re-index all the just transferred pictures into the Gallery. Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I used Pics organizer to organize my pictures into different folders for my gallery. Download it [here](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.juacali.primetech) works well with other gallery apps. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: [CamStore](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=sagar.mehar.camera2) does that job perfectly. Upvotes: -1
2013/03/03
534
1,979
<issue_start>username_0: My LG Nexus 4 (Android 4.2.2) does not play my .wma audio files. However, my generic/budget Android 4.0.3 tablet plays the same .wma files just fine. * Why? * How can I get my Android device to play .wma files?<issue_comment>username_1: It seems that ICS does not have native support for WMA files. You can use an app like [MX Player](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mxtech.videoplayer.ad) (or its Pro version) to play WMA files. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: A bit of a workaround, but... If the music (.wma) files are part of your music library then you can sign up to Google's "Play Music" and upload all your library to the cloud (20,000 songs for free). The resulting streamed music appears to be in a format that the device can play. The "Play Music" app still can't play .wma files directly that are stored on your device. However, the streamed music is saved/cached and plays offline. The "Music Manager" that runs on your PC uploads all your music tracks (.wma files) to the cloud. However, it doesn't upload songs that are already in its music library. I thought this was maybe the key - that the same song already exists in a compatible format in Google's storage - but it works with any .wma file, even files I have recorded myself. **EDIT:** If I download a track, that was originally a .wma file, from my cloud library on the web then it downloads a .mp3 file. This is the same for all .wma files - even files I have recorded myself, so Google must convert them. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: I didn't have any joy with MX Player or VLC, but I did find an app that played WMA songs on my android phone. The app that worked for me is called [jetAudio Music Player Basic](http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jetappfactory.jetaudio). The free version worked fine, so I haven't tried the paid upgrade. My phone is Sony, not Nexus, so maybe that's the difference? Upvotes: 1
2013/03/03
681
2,367
<issue_start>username_0: I have a google account for G+ Picasa and some other services i like to use. What i do not like is gmail it is i believe complete junk. Be it as it may. I have purchased a new android device and wanted to sign in to buy some apps, using my already existing google account. But alas, i cannot do it without creating a gmail account it looks like. That is just crazy i have an account, if they really want to they can trace what i do already. Why do i need to have junkmail ... ehh.. i mean gmail also. Is there a way around this? Please help. I have 14 days to return my phone so need to find a way to do it before that or abandon it.<issue_comment>username_1: No, there is no other way. You must have a Gmail account to download from Google Play Store. From their [site](http://support.google.com/googleplay/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=2521798): > > To use Google Play to download Android apps, you'll need to have a > Google account with a Google email (either Gmail or a Google-hosted > domain) associated with your phone or tablet. > > > If you don't like Gmail, you don't have to use it. Just disable the syncing for emails, and you'll be fine. Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I'd recommend setting up a separate google account for using the play store, which you use only for that purpose. This is more generally a useful, if insufficient response to a lot of google's connect-everything strategy. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: There is 1mobile.com. I install this to get most of my APKs. Then, I delete it because it is like goo play and wants to run all the time. If I want another APK, I reinstall it, get the app, and uninstall. Then, there is also: * gooapk.net * gizom's * appsapk * papk * apktop * etc Gooapk should keep you busy for a day or two. I'm getting a divorce from googirl myself. And "oh looky", a sign-in with googirl for posting on a how to NOT use googirl blog. Awesome! Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: New facts as of 2015 ==================== * You can create a Google account *without* gmail * You can *remove* gmail from your google account [On android, is there any way to sign into Google Play without also signing into Gmail?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/75298/on-android-is-there-any-way-to-sign-into-google-play-without-also-signing-into) Upvotes: 2
2013/03/03
424
1,556
<issue_start>username_0: I don't have Russian input method in the list of methods available. Tried third party apps like 'change locale' bu they are changing interface of the OS and not giving me to type in Russian. Android version: 4.1.2, Device: Samsung Galaxy S2 LTE<issue_comment>username_1: Don't know what OS version you have but the [Hacker's Keyboard](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.pocketworkstation.pckeyboard) has a phonetic russian layout that might work for you. Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You need to look at 3rd-party [keyboard replacement apps](https://play.google.com/store/search?q=russian%20keyboard&c=apps), not locale changing apps. Many well known keyboards like [Swype](http://beta.swype.com/) and [SwiftKey](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.touchtype.swiftkey) offer Russian layouts as either an in-app downloads, or separate add-on packages (like [AnySoftKeyboard](https://play.google.com/store/search?q=anysoftkeyboard&c=apps)'s [language packs](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.anysoftkeyboard.languagepack.russian2) for example.) Keep in mind that after the initial installation new Keyboard apps are not enabled. Go to `Settings -> Language & input`, scroll down to "Keyboards & input methods" section, tap on the checkbox of the newly installed app, and tap OK to accept the scary warning. You should now be able to switch to your new keyboard. This is for Android 4.x; on other OS versions the menus might be slightly different. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]
2013/03/03
978
4,016
<issue_start>username_0: I have the Google Voice app on my Android phone, and I'd like to occasionally make calls from it, but I don't want to enable the "Ask me every time whether to use Google Voice" option, as 90% of my calls would be from my cell phone's number. Given that I have the "never use google voice" option enabled, is there a option buried somewhere that I can use to place a call to someone without having to re-enable the "ask me every time" setting?<issue_comment>username_1: There are a few options available, depending on what your needs are exactly. Option 1 - Manually route specific calls through google voice ============================================================= Before I had a smartphone, this was how I routed all my calls. Basically, for every contact, I stored their regular number as well as a Google Voice number. The GV number was my *own* GV number, followed by a `wait`, then a `2`, another `wait`, and finally followed by the contact's number and a pound key. In effect, I made a macro. Ex ( My #: 1234567890, Bob's number: 19876543210): Contact: `Bob` Primary: `19876543210` Secondary: `1234567890W2W19876543210#` If you only have a few contacts that you wish to call via your Google Voice number, this option is very simple. It does add some extra time to call them, as your phone doesn't connect directly to your contact, but rather connects to Google Voice, then "manually" dials the contact's number. Note that you must have certain settings set up in Google Voice (the website, not the app) so that when you call your own number, you get the Google Voice menu system instead of leaving yourself a message. Also, if you require a PIN for your specific phone, you'll have to modify the setting, or add a PIN to the macro dial string. FYI, this was how I got unlimited (outgoing) minutes as well. Since I could choose up 5 numbers to dial without using minutes, I simply chose my own Google Voice number as one of the five. Since all my calls went through GV, my carrier simply saw me dialing the same number all the time. Option 2 - Add a widget to simplify Google Voice ================================================ The Google Voice app has several widgets, and one of them is a 1x1 icon that rotates between the 4 calling options: `Always use Google Voice`,`Only for International Calls`,`Ask Everytime`, and `Never use Google Voice`. This is the option I used to prefer, and I have actually used this in the past. It is very useful to quickly switch phone numbers, and you don't need to go through the hassle of opening the Google Voice app and finding the specific setting. Just click the widget until it is on the setting you want, and call from there. Option 3 - Use Titanium Backup Pro to make a separate profile ============================================================= With the paid version of Titanium Backup, you can create multiple profiles for apps, essentially giving you the ability to have multiple users. This is the option I use currently, as it reduces the number of clicks I need, and it allows me to have multiple profiles on a specific set of apps I want (such as games, lists, and Google Voice). I can switch from my Normal profile to my Guest profile (for example) so that I can hand off my phone to a family member to play games without messing up my own progress. Set up a second profile that has Google Voice on for all calls, and make your primary profile never ask. When you want to use google voice, just switch profiles. There are other apps that let you do multiple profiles, and I know some of them are free if you only want a total of 2 profiles. Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: download the Voice Choice app in the google play store! <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.voiceplus&hl=en> and you can set up google voice automatically for select numbers, or even groups of contacts, and then have your mobile number be your default for everything else. Upvotes: 0
2013/03/04
544
1,848
<issue_start>username_0: An ebook I purchased is locked to my device so I can't open it anywhere else. I'm having a hard time reading due to the small screen size of my phone. Is there a way I can get it to display on my monitor? I don't have any special cables so I'll have to use any wireless means possible. Also to note: I'm not looking for emulation as the app has locked my ebook to the device. Any creative solutions are welcome.<issue_comment>username_1: You need to use the MHL Adapter Cable. ![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xrMfL.jpg) From the MHL Adapter, you can connect to any TV that support HDMI. ![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vVqn7.jpg) Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Have you thought about sharing your phone's screen on computer? Lot of apps and tweaks are available on the Internet. Few such results I found quickly by searching are [this](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1Wc4uYydD4) and [this](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rS2ly9fk-Q) video and a [XDA](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1653080) page. I am unable to provide more specific answer as I am not aware of your phone's software version and its hardware capabilities. As @username_1 said, if you have HDMI out it will be the best option. By seeing your phone's screen on the computer, you would be running the eBook reader app in the phone but read the book in your monitor. Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Depending on the Android version, you may be able to "[Miracast](http://www.zdnet.com/projecting-your-pc-or-mobile-device-with-miracast-how-well-does-it-work-7000031929/)" screen cast to an external Miracast receiver. It's a wireless solution. An [introduction](http://www.cnet.com/how-to/miracast-everything-to-know-about-mirroring-android/) with a video. Upvotes: 1