date stringlengths 10 10 | nb_tokens int64 60 629k | text_size int64 234 1.02M | content stringlengths 234 1.02M |
|---|---|---|---|
2012/08/24 | 1,338 | 5,841 | <issue_start>username_0: I read a lot about rooting android, that it is risky, that I can mess all and get my device completely dead and nothing can be done about it. So my question -- why all these phones can't be just mounted? If I mess up my system with root, I always can boot with live-cd or write disk image directly to `/dev/sda`. After all, I can just mount broken system and repair it.
Why android to not support it? Is it some real technical restriction, related to flash memory or something, that differs between phone and PC/Notebook?<issue_comment>username_1: The root filesystem of a typical Android device can't be mounted because there's no way to interface to it in order to mount it.
The root filesytem is typically stored in flash chips soldered to the phone's board. When the phone boots, it runs a boot loader (also out of flash) that doesn't provide any option to run user-supplied software. The flash is software locked from modification, and the boot loader provides no "unlock" option.
The USB port is connected to the CPU, and there's no way to get the CPU to let you run code that mounts the root filesystem. Code loaded by the boot loader will only give you limited access that doesn't include raw read/write to the flash device.
Thus it is necessary to find some way to break this security chain in order to modify the root filesystem.
There are two reasons for this craziness. The primary reason is permit the sale of subsidized phones tied to a single carrier. The secondary reason is to make Android devices more reliable because a user can't, either intentionally or through inadvertent malware triggering, corrupt the device to the point where it can't recover.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The only reason you need to root phones in the first place is that the manufacturer has tried to prevent software choice on the phone platform. The PC design is pretty unique in that it has had a choice of software platform for so long that it's an ingrained feature, although with Secure Boot on Windows 8 devices this is likely on the way out.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: You can't mount them because there has to be some software to communicate between the phone and your computer. With the Phone the full software stack needs to be involved as it needs to take into account what happens when you mount the device when it's running. Also there are often multiple partitions on the phones, a raw mount would show up all the raw system files in the computer's File Manager which would be bad and things like Windows would probably try and format the Linux partitions as it can't understand them. On newer devices you can't even do a normal USB Storage mount but you have to use MTP as they use internal storage which still needs to be accessible while mounted. Technically it would be possible for them to make some kind of failsafe raw mount mode when it's plugged in while powered off (or started with some button held down), but they haven't, they do provide other methods of recovery instead. Also the firmware generally needs to be installed somehow, there are scripts and so on that run to set up things. If you have totally bricked the phone then there isn't much you can do.
But having said that flashing modern Android phones isn't too risky and actually bricking it is hard.
Firstly there are actually several images that can be flashed:
* Boot loader (HBOOT)
* Radio firmware
* Recovery Firmware
* ROM Firmware
Older devices did have some issue when flashing Radio/Boot. Specifically if you flashed them in the incorrect order and had mismatched versions you could actually brick the phone. But I believe that is mostly a problem with first/second generation Android phones, I haven't seen it being an issue on newer phones (also you probably shouldn't flash a radio of a different region as you might lose special features, like the 'HD Voice' for Australians).
Now days, in order to actually brick your device you would have to be totally unable to enter
HBOOT, Recovery *and* the main ROM. If you can enter any of those it should be possible to flash firmware from them (although in some cases they might have security enabled meaning you are limited to flash the official stock images, but you can generally break out of them and flash whatever you want). HBOOT allows for fastboot flashing. Recovery and the main ROM both have the flashing binary in them.
Finally if you did totally manage to brick it, you can look at using JTAG to reverse it. That probably does require soldering a cable onto the phones mobo though as well as a (cheap) cable. And some knowhow.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: I agree that this would be a great idea, but sadly wasn't implemented for security and carier locking's sake.
But do note that most phones have almost the same functionalty. Samsung download mode with odin does pretty much what you want it to do (flash an image directly to the flash device) and it is very hard to break download mode.
It is very much like on the computer: if the BIOS is still working you can boot from a CD and restore an image, here the bootloader is a sort of bios and if it works you can flash an image. If you flashed a custom non compatible bios on your computer you could just as well "brick" a pc.
If you avoid touching the bootloader on an android device you won't brick it, and even then some devices have "usb jig"s that will force restore the bootloader back. Why people are so much more reckless on their phones than on their pc is beyond me.
I think the idea is good but there really is no need for this right now, beacuse in practice the restore options and real "hard brick" possibilities are almost identical to the PC world and noone is complaining about PCs. People just need to be more carefull.
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/08/24 | 596 | 2,480 | <issue_start>username_0: When I plug a headphone into my Nexus' audio port, the headphones simply don't play any sounds or music. The device seems to detect them, because the built-in sound output stops working. I tried it with another headphone and it didn't work either. There is no error log output.
It really sucks, because I can't hear any music.
How can I solve it?
(Galaxy Nexus with stock Jelly Bean)<issue_comment>username_1: I own an OG Droid and a Droid Bionic and both phones eventually had similar audio jack problems.
On one phone I found the issue to be a wad of dust crammed in the jack which I had to fish out with a [enter your choice of small pointy tool].
It could be a result of the internal contact points being pushed back from repeated tension. This would weaken the contact with the audio cable. In your particular case I don't think this is true however.
Other things you can try:
* Pull the audio cable in and out several times wiggling it and testing it. (Ideally you'd want to test it with something that plays audio continuously so you don't have to keep hitting play)
* Getting a different and potentially better quality audio cable to test with.
* You can also try resetting to factory default which may help if the problem is software related. (As long as you have a google account synced with your phone, all your apps will be automatically re-downloaded)
* If all else fails, take it back to the phone manufacturer or your phone service provider. They should be able to fix it for a reasonable price.
* There is the option of trying to fix it yourself but that isn't recommended if you are uncomfortable working with small/delicate electronics, not to mention voiding your warranty.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I also had this problem. I thought something was wrong. As soon as I inserted the headphone jack the sound got cut off and there was no sound coming thru the headphones. I tried pressing the volume button and found that it was turned all the way down by default. Now there is no problem
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: My fix was to first play the media/music like first put a song or first open a game , when the sound is playing plug in the headphones or earphones
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I faced a similar issue. Tried increasing, decreasing volume.. removed, put back headphones... nothing worked.. So.. did a restart of Samsung S7 Edge and it started working...
Upvotes: -1 |
2012/08/25 | 546 | 2,237 | <issue_start>username_0: When the phone's battery reaches ~20%, I get the message to connect my charger on the lock screen. Is there a way to lower the threshold for the notification -- similar to the setting for a laptop?
For clarity, I want to change the settings so that the "Connect your charger" message appears when my battery is at 5%, instead of its current threshold, ~20%.
I should mention that I'm looking for a setting that's on the phone, without the need to modify back-end files. Also, I've actually gone through the whole settings section looking for the option and didn't find anything. Hopefully, I didn't overlook it.<issue_comment>username_1: There is no setting available in any Android ROM that has the battery threshold setting.
From the previous [answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/27589/get-rid-of-battery-low-popup-after-some-delay/27593#27593) given, it is built in.
Only course of option is to roll your own Android build, with the hard-coded value adjusted, but, and is a big but indeed, it is not the recommended route to take, as the code behind Android to handle the battery mechanism varies from chip-set to chip-set and to each and their own manufacturer.
By adjusting it, there could be invariable damage to the battery as a result, since the threshold is specified, by "tweaking" it could affect the battery in the long run and possibly end up shortening the battery life also.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I have a Galaxy S3 and changing the battery threshold had me stumped for a good while as I did manage to change it when I first got the phone.
Here's the answer to how to change the battery threshold on the Galaxy S3:
1. You do not need an app.
2. Simply wait until your GS3 gives you the low battery warning.
3. On your phone's homepage at the top, pull down the notification bar and tap once on the red low battery notification. This will take you to a power saving option page that has the battery threshold options.
**Note:** If you access the power saving options from the settings screen, you DO NOT get the battery threshold option??
I really hope this helps all those like me that just could not find out how to do this.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/25 | 576 | 2,254 | <issue_start>username_0: According to [Swype's advanced tips page](http://www.swype.com/tips/advanced-tips/):
>
> Switching languages: To switch between the two most recent languages, Swype from the Swype-key to the key with the language initials on it.
>
>
>
Since I updated Swype, the language initials are on the space bar and this tip doesn't work any more. I can still switch languages by long-pressing the space bar but that's a hassle. What's the new quick way to change the language?
Here's a screenshot of the keyboard as it looks like for me:
<issue_comment>username_1: There is no setting available in any Android ROM that has the battery threshold setting.
From the previous [answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/27589/get-rid-of-battery-low-popup-after-some-delay/27593#27593) given, it is built in.
Only course of option is to roll your own Android build, with the hard-coded value adjusted, but, and is a big but indeed, it is not the recommended route to take, as the code behind Android to handle the battery mechanism varies from chip-set to chip-set and to each and their own manufacturer.
By adjusting it, there could be invariable damage to the battery as a result, since the threshold is specified, by "tweaking" it could affect the battery in the long run and possibly end up shortening the battery life also.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I have a Galaxy S3 and changing the battery threshold had me stumped for a good while as I did manage to change it when I first got the phone.
Here's the answer to how to change the battery threshold on the Galaxy S3:
1. You do not need an app.
2. Simply wait until your GS3 gives you the low battery warning.
3. On your phone's homepage at the top, pull down the notification bar and tap once on the red low battery notification. This will take you to a power saving option page that has the battery threshold options.
**Note:** If you access the power saving options from the settings screen, you DO NOT get the battery threshold option??
I really hope this helps all those like me that just could not find out how to do this.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/25 | 366 | 1,638 | <issue_start>username_0: Currently Google Now notifies me 10 minutes before I need to leave the house for an appointment (taking traffic into consideration). How do I change the notification time to some other value?<issue_comment>username_1: The default reminder time is actually based on your calendar. If you open your calendar, open Settings, and select General settings, "Default reminder time" is near the bottom (I'm working from Cyanogenmod 10, but AOSP/Nexus devices should be similar). This controls the general notification time. The Now functionality is separate, and (from what I understand) is based entirely on travel time. If your appointment has a destination that Google recognizes, it will calculate travel time and pop up a card far enough ahead to allow you to meet that travel time and arrive on time. I'm not positive if it factors in your reminder time into this or not, but it's possible that it is. If that's the case, it will notify you 10 minutes + travel time currently, and if you modify the calendar notification time, it should modify the Now notification time. Again, this is speculation based on how I understand Now to function, but I believe it's fairly accurate based on my experience.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: The default reminder time is pulled from the Calendar's settings, if you tap the event to open it in the calendar editing screen after it's been recognized by Google. However, if you just tap "Create Event" after it's been recognized without reviewing it (as mentioned above), it will default to 15 minutes. This is on a Razr Maxx HD, Verizon, ICS.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/26 | 555 | 2,066 | <issue_start>username_0: I use Gingerbread.
My Android phone has feature, that turns off display during call when I put the phone to my ear. However, the sensor is probably over-sensitive in my device, so it often turns off during call even when I don't keep it next to my face.
This is an issue if I want to use keyboard during call when the screen turns off. **Can I disable this feature?**<issue_comment>username_1: In Gingerbread you can find it in Advanced Settings in the Call Settings: go to Settings -> Calls-> Advanced. I'm not sure where exactly but it's where you have the options of call waiting, etc.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: There is a free app named Screebl, that will keep your phone on during a call. In fact, you will have to physically shut your phone off/place it in standy, after you install this app by tapping the on/off button on a Samsung Galaxy Proclaim 2.3.6 Gingerbread OS.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: In gingerbread 2.3.6, you can turn it off in Call Settings>Additional Settings then uncheck the "Turn on proximity Sensor".
Here is a screenshot:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/A4mTS.png)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: Plug in a headset. It's the only answer!
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_5: Use ["Screen On Call" app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.vorlan.screenoncall.free) to keep screen on during call. There is no need to turn proximity sensor off. It will keep working and if you move you phone to your ear, screen will go off, but if you keep it on the table or away from any blocking objects, screen will stay on, so you will be able to use keypad to punch more numbers or for whatever reason you want screen to stay on.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: I have v. 6.0.1. I contacted support with this problem, since I do not have any proxy setting. Go to settings - > apps -> phone or dial app -> memory -> clear cache and memory and restart your device. This worked for me. Hope this helps, good luck.
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/08/26 | 5,903 | 22,198 | <issue_start>username_0: I know I'm asking for the close-to-impossible -- as a real full-backup certainly requires root permissions. But still there are many folks around not wanting to root their devices -- afraid of voiding their warranties or bricking their devices, or just not having their devices supported by any rooting method.
I also know there were a lot of questions asked already on this topic, and I checked all of them having the *backup* tag -- none covers the entire topic, all just have pieces, and especially people new to Android (but other non-power-users as well) would have a hard time figuring out the best way.
So ***I want a detailed canonical answer*** to the question:
***Not* involving root-solutions, how to achieve a backup as close as possible to a *full backup*?**
Please do **not** give simple one-liner answers like "Use app xyz [full-stop]." If mentioning an app (and I doubt a single app would be the answer here), include what parts are covered by it -- as well as ideas on how to fill the gaps it leaves. (And to make it absolutely clear: I know the first thing coming to mind is *Titanium Backup* -- I use it myself, but this does *not* apply here: This question is *strictly about methods for non-rooted devices!*) Moreover, the answer should be as *generic* as possible in terms of applying to a wide range of devices (i.e. it should not be restricted to one device or manufacturer).
I already mentioned having investigated all questions here tagged *backup*. These will certainly be helpful providing details for answers here, so I will list up the topmost ones concerning my question:
* [How to backup an Android device?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/390/how-to-backup-an-android-device)
* [How do I perform a full pre-rooting backup of an Android phone?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/5667/how-do-i-perform-a-full-pre-rooting-backup-of-an-android-phone)
* [What info does Google backup?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/15434/what-info-does-google-backup)
* [How can data on an unrooted phone be backed up?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/12470/how-can-data-on-an-unrooted-phone-be-backed-up)
* [Could a non-root Android 4.0.3 smartphone's rom be backup?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/25698/could-a-non-root-android-4-0-3-smartphones-rom-be-backup)
* [How do I back up (and restore) my phone before installing a custom ROM?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/20296/how-do-i-back-up-and-restore-my-phone-before-installing-a-custom-rom)
* [Backup my Android without my Apps, Settings, Config's, etc.](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/26361/backup-my-android-without-my-apps-settings-configs-etc)
All these provide some details for my question (so feel free to get inspired by them) -- but I feel there are still details missing. Also it would be helpful to have a summary -- say, an answer including the full description of "the maximum possible".
A last criterium: While I'd consider cloud-based solutions legit, I'd favour local solutions. If you can provide both: all the better. But some people value privacy quite high (I'm one of them), and thus would not trust their data to some cloud service.
---
Thanks to Ryan, we now have a solution for a **really complete backup** of all apps and their data -- which I didn't dare to hope for! The only disadvantage: His solution only works for less than 10% of all Android users; namely those whose devices are running at least with **Android 4.x**.
So again, I ask the close-to-impossible: **Any solutions applicable at least on Gingerbread** (2.3.x) or, better, even Froyo (2.2.x) -- so they cover the majority of current devices? These solutions may involve multiple tools (try to keep it as simple as possible though; think of your mother to follow your instructions ;)
And keep in mind: **NO ROOT!**
---
To further motivate high-quality answers (and hopefully avoid low-quality ones), I will be a harsh one here: As I rarely do, **I *will* down-vote** answers not fitting the mentioned criteria on one end -- but on the other end, **I will setup a bounty** for the best answer (which cannot be done immediately, but earliest after 2 days).<issue_comment>username_1: Solution Available for 4.0+ Devices:
------------------------------------
For 4.0+ devices there is a solution called "adb backup".
**Note: This only works for apps that do not disallow backup!
Apps that disallow backup are simply ignored when creating a backup using this way.**
This makes use of adb so you have to have the [Android Software Development Kit (SDK)](http://developer.android.com/sdk/index.html) installed on your computer (on some Linux distributions: just packages `android-tools-adb` and `android-tools-adbd`).
**NOTE: This solution will not back up and restore contact, SMS or calendar information**
=========================================================================================
The options for the adb command are:
```
adb backup [-f ] [-apk|-noapk] [-obb|-noobb] [-shared|-noshared] [-all] [-system|nosystem] [-keyvalue|-nokeyvalue] []
```
**Note:** [You may need quotes or escape characters](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/83080/adb-backup-creates-0-byte-file-prompts-for-current-backup-password-even-though/130421#130421).
* -f : the path of the \*.ab file that will be saved on your computer. This file is a compressed file that contains an archive of the data/apks from your device.
* -apk|-noapk : indicates if the \*.apk files should be backed up (default is -noapk)
* -obb|-noobb : enable/disable backup of any installed apk expansion (aka .obb) files associated with each application (default is -noobb)
* -shared|-noshared: enable/disable backup of the device's shared storage / SD card contents (default is -noshared)
* -all : indicates that you want the entire system backed up. you can use the packages filter to just backup specific packages, or use -all for a full system backup.
* -system|-nosystem: indicates if all the system applications and data are included when backing up. (default is -system)
* -keyvalue|-nokeyvalue: include apps that perform key/value backups. (default -nokeyvalue)
* : this is where you can list specific packages to backup. Use these if you want to back up only specific applications. If using -all, you do not need to specify packages.
---
How to backup your device:
--------------------------
First, you need to enable "USB debugging" on you Android device:
1. Go to "About device" (or "About phone" or "About tablet") section in Settings
2. Tap 7 times on "Build number" row (usually the last row). After that "Developer options" section will appear in Settings

3. Go to "Developer options" section in Settings
4. Tap the "USB Debugging" checkbox

Second, on your PC from the command prompt you will need to be able to locate both the `adb` command and your backup file. The easiest way to do this is to run the `adb` command from the directory where `adb` is located.
In Windows Explorer navigate to where you installed the Android SDK and `SHIFT+RIGHT CLICK` on the `platform-tools` folder.

This will open a command prompt (your window will look different than mine).
In Mac's Terminal you can type `cd` and then drag the folder **platform-tools** folder from finder to the terminal window and the path will be inserted. Hit and you will be in the right place.
In Linux, I hope you know how to locate and cd to the parent directory of the adb command. You are using **Linux** after all.
From here type the following command:
Windows:
```
adb backup -apk -shared -all -nosystem -f backup08262012.ab
```
Linux & Mac
```
./adb backup -apk -shared -all -nosystem -f backup08262012.ab
## Notice that -all doesn't mean ALL. See the big bold NOTE at the top of this answer.
## You can also include -system and -keyvalue to be able to backup and restore *some* system settings.
# drop the `./` in the command if you are using `android-tools-adb` package
```
(if you want to store the backup in a different directory, include a path for the ".ab" file as shown in the screenshot below.)

You will then be prompted on your device for a password (this is used to encrypt the backup):

To restore, it works almost the same way.
Windows:
```
adb restore backup08262012.ab
```
Linux & Mac
```
./adb restore backup08262012.ab
```
Then you will be prompted for your password to restore on the device:

---
Now for the shameless self promotion:
-------------------------------------
[Droid Explorer](https://github.com/camalot/droidexplorer) ([v0.8.8.7](https://github.com/camalot/droidexplorer/releases/)+) will be able to handle this for 4.0+ devices. While Droid Explorer is currently optimized for Rooted devices, this functionality will work for non-rooted devices as well.
Droid Explorer will do full backups of the device and save them in %USERPROFILE%\Android Backups. Within that folder is a folder named for the device, and inside that folder are the backups.

Double clicking on the Android Backup file will allow you to restore your device from the backup file.
Upvotes: 9 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Technically, you CAN create full Nandroid backup *without* rooting the device. You just need to flash CWM (or, any recovery which supports Nandroid backup) over USB. For example, you can use Odin (Windows) to flash CWM to Samsung devices after going to download mode, all without touching the Android. So, there's no rooting or root access involved at all.
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_3: There is an application called **Simple ADB Backup**.

Simple ADB Backup Backs Up Your Android Phone from the Desktop, No Root Required. Most Android backup tools require root, or run from your phone and save your data to your SD card. Simple ADB Backup is different. The app runs from and backs up your phone's data to your desktop, and does it all without root.
To use Simple ADB Backup, you'll need USB Debugging Mode enabled on your Android device (Go to Settings > Developer, enable developer options, then enable USB debugging) and the utility installed on your desktop. That's about it: just plug in your phone, launch the app on your Windows or Linux system, and choose a backup option. You have the option to back up your entire device, just apps, all data with or without system apps, or even a single app if you choose.
The app also lets you restore backed up data to your device. Before you back up, you'll be prompted to generate a password you'll also have to type into the app on your phone before the backup can begin, but after that, the process runs smoothly. It's extremely simple, completely free, and doesn't require you root first.
Whilst Titanium Backup is a more feature-filled app if you're willing to root (especially if you want a bulletproof backup system for your Android), and MyBackup Pro is great if you're migrating to a new phone and don't want a desktop as a middleman, but Simple ADB Backup is free and apparently so easy to use that even Android beginners can easily and quickly back up their important data.
Simple ADB Backup was released for free over at the XDA Developer forums. Hit the link below to download it there.
<http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=36499906>
Please Note: This is a new application currently still in Beta
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_4: <NAME> (aka Koush aka Mr. ClockworkMod) has published [Helium Backup](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.koushikdutta.backup&hl=en), which should make the entire thing possible even without the need of a computer and USB cable:
[](http://phandroid.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Carbon-ClockworkMod.jpg)
*Helium Backup* should be able to backup apps and data to SD card, attached USB devices, Dropbox, Google Drive or Box.
This isn't a "full backup" in so far as it comes to system settings, but it *does* restore application settings and data. It *does not* backup your internal storage (the user files), so you'll have to backup those files separately.
If you find yourself unable to see your backups in the restore list, some of the backup metadata may have gotten lost in translation. The backup themselves can still be restored, but you'll need [some extra leg work](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/37738/596) to get them.
**Edit:** For a full-fledged how-to on the usage of *Helium*, please see [How to Backup Apps and Data without Root using Helium Android App](http://www.theandroidsoul.com/how-to-backup-apps-and-data-without-root-using-helium-android-app/ "TheAndroidSoul: How to Backup Apps and Data without Root using Helium Android App") (thanks for the hint, username_3!). And before complaining on anything, make sure you've checked with the [Helium Wiki](https://github.com/koush/support-wiki/wiki/Helium-Wiki) (thanks to [golimar](https://android.stackexchange.com/users/10974/golimar) for pointing this out!).
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_5: This answer is not the hint you dear readers hoped for but the result of my real world tests:
**adb backup** is far from complete, on a Nexus 3, both under an unrooted stock Android 4.3 and if run with adb root on Cyanogenmod 10.1.3!
---
A few things are restored, a few not! I checked restoration of some features:
**NOT RESTORED:** basically all the key telephony features: Contacts, sms, ringtone¬ification sound, activated input languages (=kbd layouts), ownername (ownername set in first boot wizard is kept instead)
**PROPERLY RESTORED:** Custom vocabulary, wallpaper, launcher icon positions, apps and their settings.
---
These were my requirements, which brought me to the topic:
1. Maximization of [Android privacy](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/43390/17286)
2. [Physical security](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/36830/whats-the-security-implication-of-having-an-unlocked-boot-loader/36831#36831) to prevent [drive by downloads](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uM2_CpuzQ0o) ([PDF](http://kyleosborn.com/android/AndroidPhySec.pdf)), meaning:
* bootloader locked, stock recovery, ADB off
* even more secure with: full disk encryption
3. Full local backup, no cloud backup (topic of this very thread here)
---
On **Cyanogenmod** the situation was a little different: SMS were completely restored, but contacts and call logs still not restored. Even when adb backup and restore where ran with an adb running as root through `adb root`.
---
So I will try to use a custom ROM, with root (to get some extra features), a locked bootloader, custom recovery, and only flash the recovery temporarily (theoretically possible from the rooted device with [flash\_image](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/36830/whats-the-security-implication-of-having-an-unlocked-boot-loader/36831#36831), but for me this [failed too](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/36830/whats-the-security-implication-of-having-an-unlocked-boot-loader/36831#comment74107_36831)), from which I then do NANDROID backups (or adb backup + special backup solutions for sms/call-logs/contacts) plus custom ROM updates.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_6: We can take the backup of our device without using any apps or without rooting our phone.
Android includes a built-in way to back up and restore the contents of your phone or tablet. All you need is a computer and a device running Android 4.0 (Ice Cream Sandwich) or newer.
Go to `adt-bundle-windows-x86\sdk\platform-tools` folder and open command promt here.
1. Make sure USB Debugging is Enabled.
2. Check that your device is connected by running "`adb device`".
3. Now execute "`adb backup -apk -shared -all -f C:\Users\UserName\backup.ab`".
4. Unlock your device, provide encrpytion password and your whole
device will be backed up.
5. To restore again simply execute "`adb restore C:\Users\UserName\backup.ab`".
I have written step by step procedure with screen shots for the same [here](http://opensourceforgeeks.blogspot.in/2013/11/how-to-completely-back-up-android-device.html). Hope this helps!
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_7: I'm a bit surprised by the other (complicated) answers. Maybe I've misunderstood the question so feel free to comment and vote accordingly.
1. By definition a full backup (including ROM, apps and data) is called a [Nandroid backup](http://forum.xda-developers.com/wiki/NANDroid). Therefore the question is asking "how do I do a Nandroid backup on my unrooted device".
2. You do not need a rooted device to be able to do a Nandroid backup. Nandroid backups are usually done through a custom recovery (like TWRP or Clockwordmod) which do not always need a rooted device to install. For example using ADB TWRP can be installed, as per [the directions here](http://www.xda-developers.com/how-to-install-twrp/). It may be possible to temporarily load a custom recovery, thus preserving the stock recovery (and your warranty; for TWRP this can be done replacing `fastboot flash recovery twrp*.img` with `fastboot boot twrp*.img` in step 4 of the linked tutorial). Some devices require the bootloader to be unlocked to install a custom recovery, others do not. Note that unlocking the bootloader usually factory-resets your device.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_8: A **full backup** seems to be a very overloaded term in the Android world. Allow me to first define it (paraphrasing a comment from OP):
>
> A full backup is anything that will restore your system state to when
> you made the backup.
>
>
>
So the first obvious follow-up question is: *restore your state from what?*
* Scenario 1: Your phone is physically broken/lost and your replacement is a different model.
* Scenario 2: Your partition table was corrupted and now it won't boot.
* Scenario 3: Your entire drive (eMMC) has been blanked and it won't boot.
* Scenario 4: You can only boot into a USB flash mode like fastboot/ODIN.
* Scenario 5: You can only boot into your recovery mode.
* Scenario 6: Your phone has been reset to factory state.
* Scenario 7: You accidentally deleted your favorite cat wallpaper image.
* Etc.
The list points out how ill-defined this canonical question is. Each of these scenarios can have a different backup solution. A generic full backup would have to be able to address all of them.
---
The second follow-up question is: *what is "system state"?*
Are we talking about the conventional memory sector state, or the fuzzier *user experienced* state of functionality. Most users will really only care about restoring latter to some degree, in which case it may be more desirable to get an easier backup solution for the specific scenarios you care about. E.g. if all you care about is preserving your photos, a backup might be as simple as enabling automatic cloud storage in your photos app; a full backup would be a waste of effort/resources.
We can divide the full backup solutions (with bootable and possibly different phones) into 2 categories based on the definitions of state:
1. Developer restores
Typically involves using a Nandroid, which is a complete or partial image of the eMMC sectors. Bit technical. Most partitions will require the device to be identical to the original. Sometimes sector state is too much hassle to backup/restore.
2. Consumer restores
Typically file based, can restore apps and data. These are more likely to work across different models, but it won't be a full backup/clone if you care about restoring every memory sector. E.g. a "restored" app might be a newer version, or the partition sizes on your new device will be different, or the files may have different names, etc.
In summary, if you can restore the sector state, then functionality restoration should logically follow. But both can be considered full backups for their use cases. Let the context determine if someone asking for a full backup wants option 1 or 2.
### Beware consumer restores
The current most highly voted answer based on `adb backup` is a consumer restore that can restore apps and data, with a few caveats:
* Seems to omit some files
* Variable results depending on the ROM (e.g. doesn't work on some Sony models, omits different items on CyanogenMod vs TouchWiz).
Though recently in Oreo there have been small improvements [(XDA news)](https://www.xda-developers.com/android-oreo-adb-backup-better/) I still can't confirm if it can copy all user files like photos and music copied from your pc.
### For a dev restore, you want a Nandroid.
You *can't* get a full Nandroid without either rooting OR using a recovery. An exception is perhaps an image of your SD card, giving you a partial Nandroid. So you have to risk installing an image or temporarily rooting, or wait until OEMs offer better recoveries.
Remember to name your backups with important information like date and partitions included.
### You don't have to back up what you don't mind recreating
A Nandroid typically doesn't include a recovery, because they are usually applied from a recovery so it is redundant. But if your device is messed up and your recovery is gone you might panic, thinking you didn't back it up so there's nothing to restore. But it is often simple to download and then reinstall the recovery with a USB flash tool (e.g. fastboot).
Similarly, if you store your contacts in the cloud, there is usually no need to back them up again. Just sync again after restoring.
Remember, a full backup is not useful if it is too old, so you'll probably need to make regular backups. When chosing option 1 or 2 it is a tradeoff between how much you value the backup vs how much hassle you are willing to put up with.
Upvotes: 3 |
2012/08/26 | 4,860 | 18,316 | <issue_start>username_0: I've created 2 folders on the root of the SD card,
* Ringtones
* Notifications
and placed one mp3 file within each. When I disconnect the DroidX from the USB cable and navigate to either "Settings" > "Sound"> "Phone ringtone", or "Settings" > "Sound" > "Notification ringtone", neither mp3 file shows up.
What am I doing wrong?<issue_comment>username_1: Solution Available for 4.0+ Devices:
------------------------------------
For 4.0+ devices there is a solution called "adb backup".
**Note: This only works for apps that do not disallow backup!
Apps that disallow backup are simply ignored when creating a backup using this way.**
This makes use of adb so you have to have the [Android Software Development Kit (SDK)](http://developer.android.com/sdk/index.html) installed on your computer (on some Linux distributions: just packages `android-tools-adb` and `android-tools-adbd`).
**NOTE: This solution will not back up and restore contact, SMS or calendar information**
=========================================================================================
The options for the adb command are:
```
adb backup [-f ] [-apk|-noapk] [-obb|-noobb] [-shared|-noshared] [-all] [-system|nosystem] [-keyvalue|-nokeyvalue] []
```
**Note:** [You may need quotes or escape characters](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/83080/adb-backup-creates-0-byte-file-prompts-for-current-backup-password-even-though/130421#130421).
* -f : the path of the \*.ab file that will be saved on your computer. This file is a compressed file that contains an archive of the data/apks from your device.
* -apk|-noapk : indicates if the \*.apk files should be backed up (default is -noapk)
* -obb|-noobb : enable/disable backup of any installed apk expansion (aka .obb) files associated with each application (default is -noobb)
* -shared|-noshared: enable/disable backup of the device's shared storage / SD card contents (default is -noshared)
* -all : indicates that you want the entire system backed up. you can use the packages filter to just backup specific packages, or use -all for a full system backup.
* -system|-nosystem: indicates if all the system applications and data are included when backing up. (default is -system)
* -keyvalue|-nokeyvalue: include apps that perform key/value backups. (default -nokeyvalue)
* : this is where you can list specific packages to backup. Use these if you want to back up only specific applications. If using -all, you do not need to specify packages.
---
How to backup your device:
--------------------------
First, you need to enable "USB debugging" on you Android device:
1. Go to "About device" (or "About phone" or "About tablet") section in Settings
2. Tap 7 times on "Build number" row (usually the last row). After that "Developer options" section will appear in Settings

3. Go to "Developer options" section in Settings
4. Tap the "USB Debugging" checkbox

Second, on your PC from the command prompt you will need to be able to locate both the `adb` command and your backup file. The easiest way to do this is to run the `adb` command from the directory where `adb` is located.
In Windows Explorer navigate to where you installed the Android SDK and `SHIFT+RIGHT CLICK` on the `platform-tools` folder.

This will open a command prompt (your window will look different than mine).
In Mac's Terminal you can type `cd` and then drag the folder **platform-tools** folder from finder to the terminal window and the path will be inserted. Hit and you will be in the right place.
In Linux, I hope you know how to locate and cd to the parent directory of the adb command. You are using **Linux** after all.
From here type the following command:
Windows:
```
adb backup -apk -shared -all -nosystem -f backup08262012.ab
```
Linux & Mac
```
./adb backup -apk -shared -all -nosystem -f backup08262012.ab
## Notice that -all doesn't mean ALL. See the big bold NOTE at the top of this answer.
## You can also include -system and -keyvalue to be able to backup and restore *some* system settings.
# drop the `./` in the command if you are using `android-tools-adb` package
```
(if you want to store the backup in a different directory, include a path for the ".ab" file as shown in the screenshot below.)

You will then be prompted on your device for a password (this is used to encrypt the backup):

To restore, it works almost the same way.
Windows:
```
adb restore backup08262012.ab
```
Linux & Mac
```
./adb restore backup08262012.ab
```
Then you will be prompted for your password to restore on the device:

---
Now for the shameless self promotion:
-------------------------------------
[Droid Explorer](https://github.com/camalot/droidexplorer) ([v0.8.8.7](https://github.com/camalot/droidexplorer/releases/)+) will be able to handle this for 4.0+ devices. While Droid Explorer is currently optimized for Rooted devices, this functionality will work for non-rooted devices as well.
Droid Explorer will do full backups of the device and save them in %USERPROFILE%\Android Backups. Within that folder is a folder named for the device, and inside that folder are the backups.

Double clicking on the Android Backup file will allow you to restore your device from the backup file.
Upvotes: 9 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Technically, you CAN create full Nandroid backup *without* rooting the device. You just need to flash CWM (or, any recovery which supports Nandroid backup) over USB. For example, you can use Odin (Windows) to flash CWM to Samsung devices after going to download mode, all without touching the Android. So, there's no rooting or root access involved at all.
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_3: There is an application called **Simple ADB Backup**.

Simple ADB Backup Backs Up Your Android Phone from the Desktop, No Root Required. Most Android backup tools require root, or run from your phone and save your data to your SD card. Simple ADB Backup is different. The app runs from and backs up your phone's data to your desktop, and does it all without root.
To use Simple ADB Backup, you'll need USB Debugging Mode enabled on your Android device (Go to Settings > Developer, enable developer options, then enable USB debugging) and the utility installed on your desktop. That's about it: just plug in your phone, launch the app on your Windows or Linux system, and choose a backup option. You have the option to back up your entire device, just apps, all data with or without system apps, or even a single app if you choose.
The app also lets you restore backed up data to your device. Before you back up, you'll be prompted to generate a password you'll also have to type into the app on your phone before the backup can begin, but after that, the process runs smoothly. It's extremely simple, completely free, and doesn't require you root first.
Whilst Titanium Backup is a more feature-filled app if you're willing to root (especially if you want a bulletproof backup system for your Android), and MyBackup Pro is great if you're migrating to a new phone and don't want a desktop as a middleman, but Simple ADB Backup is free and apparently so easy to use that even Android beginners can easily and quickly back up their important data.
Simple ADB Backup was released for free over at the XDA Developer forums. Hit the link below to download it there.
<http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=36499906>
Please Note: This is a new application currently still in Beta
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_4: <NAME> (aka Koush aka Mr. ClockworkMod) has published [Helium Backup](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.koushikdutta.backup&hl=en), which should make the entire thing possible even without the need of a computer and USB cable:
[](http://phandroid.s3.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Carbon-ClockworkMod.jpg)
*Helium Backup* should be able to backup apps and data to SD card, attached USB devices, Dropbox, Google Drive or Box.
This isn't a "full backup" in so far as it comes to system settings, but it *does* restore application settings and data. It *does not* backup your internal storage (the user files), so you'll have to backup those files separately.
If you find yourself unable to see your backups in the restore list, some of the backup metadata may have gotten lost in translation. The backup themselves can still be restored, but you'll need [some extra leg work](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/37738/596) to get them.
**Edit:** For a full-fledged how-to on the usage of *Helium*, please see [How to Backup Apps and Data without Root using Helium Android App](http://www.theandroidsoul.com/how-to-backup-apps-and-data-without-root-using-helium-android-app/ "TheAndroidSoul: How to Backup Apps and Data without Root using Helium Android App") (thanks for the hint, username_3!). And before complaining on anything, make sure you've checked with the [Helium Wiki](https://github.com/koush/support-wiki/wiki/Helium-Wiki) (thanks to [golimar](https://android.stackexchange.com/users/10974/golimar) for pointing this out!).
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_5: This answer is not the hint you dear readers hoped for but the result of my real world tests:
**adb backup** is far from complete, on a Nexus 3, both under an unrooted stock Android 4.3 and if run with adb root on Cyanogenmod 10.1.3!
---
A few things are restored, a few not! I checked restoration of some features:
**NOT RESTORED:** basically all the key telephony features: Contacts, sms, ringtone¬ification sound, activated input languages (=kbd layouts), ownername (ownername set in first boot wizard is kept instead)
**PROPERLY RESTORED:** Custom vocabulary, wallpaper, launcher icon positions, apps and their settings.
---
These were my requirements, which brought me to the topic:
1. Maximization of [Android privacy](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/43390/17286)
2. [Physical security](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/36830/whats-the-security-implication-of-having-an-unlocked-boot-loader/36831#36831) to prevent [drive by downloads](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uM2_CpuzQ0o) ([PDF](http://kyleosborn.com/android/AndroidPhySec.pdf)), meaning:
* bootloader locked, stock recovery, ADB off
* even more secure with: full disk encryption
3. Full local backup, no cloud backup (topic of this very thread here)
---
On **Cyanogenmod** the situation was a little different: SMS were completely restored, but contacts and call logs still not restored. Even when adb backup and restore where ran with an adb running as root through `adb root`.
---
So I will try to use a custom ROM, with root (to get some extra features), a locked bootloader, custom recovery, and only flash the recovery temporarily (theoretically possible from the rooted device with [flash\_image](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/36830/whats-the-security-implication-of-having-an-unlocked-boot-loader/36831#36831), but for me this [failed too](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/36830/whats-the-security-implication-of-having-an-unlocked-boot-loader/36831#comment74107_36831)), from which I then do NANDROID backups (or adb backup + special backup solutions for sms/call-logs/contacts) plus custom ROM updates.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_6: We can take the backup of our device without using any apps or without rooting our phone.
Android includes a built-in way to back up and restore the contents of your phone or tablet. All you need is a computer and a device running Android 4.0 (Ice Cream Sandwich) or newer.
Go to `adt-bundle-windows-x86\sdk\platform-tools` folder and open command promt here.
1. Make sure USB Debugging is Enabled.
2. Check that your device is connected by running "`adb device`".
3. Now execute "`adb backup -apk -shared -all -f C:\Users\UserName\backup.ab`".
4. Unlock your device, provide encrpytion password and your whole
device will be backed up.
5. To restore again simply execute "`adb restore C:\Users\UserName\backup.ab`".
I have written step by step procedure with screen shots for the same [here](http://opensourceforgeeks.blogspot.in/2013/11/how-to-completely-back-up-android-device.html). Hope this helps!
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_7: I'm a bit surprised by the other (complicated) answers. Maybe I've misunderstood the question so feel free to comment and vote accordingly.
1. By definition a full backup (including ROM, apps and data) is called a [Nandroid backup](http://forum.xda-developers.com/wiki/NANDroid). Therefore the question is asking "how do I do a Nandroid backup on my unrooted device".
2. You do not need a rooted device to be able to do a Nandroid backup. Nandroid backups are usually done through a custom recovery (like TWRP or Clockwordmod) which do not always need a rooted device to install. For example using ADB TWRP can be installed, as per [the directions here](http://www.xda-developers.com/how-to-install-twrp/). It may be possible to temporarily load a custom recovery, thus preserving the stock recovery (and your warranty; for TWRP this can be done replacing `fastboot flash recovery twrp*.img` with `fastboot boot twrp*.img` in step 4 of the linked tutorial). Some devices require the bootloader to be unlocked to install a custom recovery, others do not. Note that unlocking the bootloader usually factory-resets your device.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_8: A **full backup** seems to be a very overloaded term in the Android world. Allow me to first define it (paraphrasing a comment from OP):
>
> A full backup is anything that will restore your system state to when
> you made the backup.
>
>
>
So the first obvious follow-up question is: *restore your state from what?*
* Scenario 1: Your phone is physically broken/lost and your replacement is a different model.
* Scenario 2: Your partition table was corrupted and now it won't boot.
* Scenario 3: Your entire drive (eMMC) has been blanked and it won't boot.
* Scenario 4: You can only boot into a USB flash mode like fastboot/ODIN.
* Scenario 5: You can only boot into your recovery mode.
* Scenario 6: Your phone has been reset to factory state.
* Scenario 7: You accidentally deleted your favorite cat wallpaper image.
* Etc.
The list points out how ill-defined this canonical question is. Each of these scenarios can have a different backup solution. A generic full backup would have to be able to address all of them.
---
The second follow-up question is: *what is "system state"?*
Are we talking about the conventional memory sector state, or the fuzzier *user experienced* state of functionality. Most users will really only care about restoring latter to some degree, in which case it may be more desirable to get an easier backup solution for the specific scenarios you care about. E.g. if all you care about is preserving your photos, a backup might be as simple as enabling automatic cloud storage in your photos app; a full backup would be a waste of effort/resources.
We can divide the full backup solutions (with bootable and possibly different phones) into 2 categories based on the definitions of state:
1. Developer restores
Typically involves using a Nandroid, which is a complete or partial image of the eMMC sectors. Bit technical. Most partitions will require the device to be identical to the original. Sometimes sector state is too much hassle to backup/restore.
2. Consumer restores
Typically file based, can restore apps and data. These are more likely to work across different models, but it won't be a full backup/clone if you care about restoring every memory sector. E.g. a "restored" app might be a newer version, or the partition sizes on your new device will be different, or the files may have different names, etc.
In summary, if you can restore the sector state, then functionality restoration should logically follow. But both can be considered full backups for their use cases. Let the context determine if someone asking for a full backup wants option 1 or 2.
### Beware consumer restores
The current most highly voted answer based on `adb backup` is a consumer restore that can restore apps and data, with a few caveats:
* Seems to omit some files
* Variable results depending on the ROM (e.g. doesn't work on some Sony models, omits different items on CyanogenMod vs TouchWiz).
Though recently in Oreo there have been small improvements [(XDA news)](https://www.xda-developers.com/android-oreo-adb-backup-better/) I still can't confirm if it can copy all user files like photos and music copied from your pc.
### For a dev restore, you want a Nandroid.
You *can't* get a full Nandroid without either rooting OR using a recovery. An exception is perhaps an image of your SD card, giving you a partial Nandroid. So you have to risk installing an image or temporarily rooting, or wait until OEMs offer better recoveries.
Remember to name your backups with important information like date and partitions included.
### You don't have to back up what you don't mind recreating
A Nandroid typically doesn't include a recovery, because they are usually applied from a recovery so it is redundant. But if your device is messed up and your recovery is gone you might panic, thinking you didn't back it up so there's nothing to restore. But it is often simple to download and then reinstall the recovery with a USB flash tool (e.g. fastboot).
Similarly, if you store your contacts in the cloud, there is usually no need to back them up again. Just sync again after restoring.
Remember, a full backup is not useful if it is too old, so you'll probably need to make regular backups. When chosing option 1 or 2 it is a tradeoff between how much you value the backup vs how much hassle you are willing to put up with.
Upvotes: 3 |
2012/08/26 | 805 | 3,152 | <issue_start>username_0: I know you can [turn off notifications from the native email client](http://www.askmefast.com/How_do_i_turn_off_email_notifications_on_my__samsung_galaxy_s3-qna2845021.html), but is there a way to turn them off for Gmail, Google+, and other Google apps? I have my Google account set up on my phone, which is useful, but if I can't specifically turn off Google notifications I'm going to have to unsync it, because as it stands I have to either silence all notifications and miss important text messages, or get woken up by G+ comments and NYT emails at 4 AM.<issue_comment>username_1: 1. To turn off notifications for Google+, open the **Google+** app,
press **Menu->Settings->[Your account name]->Notifications**, then press the **ON/OFF
toggle** in the top right. In recent versions, notification settings are per-account.
2. To turn off notifications for Gmail/Google Apps Mail, open the
**Gmail** app, press **Menu->Settings**, select the account you wish to disable notifications for, uncheck the checkbox that says: **Email notifications**
3. To turn off notifications for Google Talk, open the
**Google Talk** app, press **Menu->Settings**, select the account you wish to disable notifications for, press **IM notifications** and select **off**, and the same for **Video chat notifications**
4. To turn off notifications for Google Voice, open the
**Google Voice** app, press **Menu->Settings->Sync and notifications**, and uncheck the boxes for text and voicemail notifications.
NOTE: This is based on Android 4.0+, some of these apps (especially Google Talk) may function differently on pre-ICS.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Launch the Google Play store app and hit menu then settings..
Then go to Google Admob ads and uncheck.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: Actually, on Jelly Bean (4.1.1), it's `Gmail > Settings > **<EMAIL>** > Notifications`.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: If you are on Jelly Bean and rooted you can use an app I built to manage notifications for all applications from a single place.
[Notifications Off](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.aboutmycode.NotificationsOff) allows you to turn off notifications for all applications. It can also automatically disable notifications for new apps as soon as they are installed.
The next version will have support for profiles, tasker integration and a widget for switching profiles.

Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: Just upgraded to 4.3 and for me this setting was in the "Hangouts" app.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_6: On my S3 I went to menu; settings; application manager; then scrolled down to Google+ and tap to open; then uncheck send notifications.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: On android kitkat: long click on the hangout app (for instance) and drag it to app info. Uncheck "show notification". Do it for each google app.
(You could also turn it off it you don't use it. To enable the app again: go to home, press menu (bottom)/ select manage app /go to tab: turn off )
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/27 | 467 | 1,723 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Samsung Galaxy Ace using its official CyanogenMod build. I wanted to try this MIUI ROM for a change:
<http://forums.miui.us/showthread.php?22816-ROM-MIUI-us-2-8-3-for-galaxy-ace>
Everything went fine, except that it doesn't see the 1GB sd-ext partition now. I don't know if it's just unmounted because my sdcard partition size stayed the same. Does the process really do that?
I'll check the recovery menu once I'm done backing up my sd card. But if you have any ideas, please do share them. Thank you.
Edit: Nothing in the recovery menu helped. I'm now about to re-create the sd-ext partition.<issue_comment>username_1: Get [MiniTool Partition Wizard Home Edition](http://www.partitionwizard.com/free-partition-manager.html) which once installed in your computer, will be show all partitions on your SD card and maybe able to to restore old partitions, if you haven't wiped your SD card yet.
Mini wizard is for your computer and get a external card reader and insert the SD card or connect your phone in USB mass storage mode to see the partitions.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I think your build f MIUI doesnt have the code for mounting the SD-ext partition on boot.
To check this, open the init.d folder in your new ROM and see if it has any file relating to Sd-ext.
This link has a init.d script for mounting the SD-ext partition [link](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1971689)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Check the storage capacity of your mounted sdcard. If it is 1 Gb less than the capacity, it means the other partition is still present but not mounted as Izzy commented.
You can Mount the partition as Aftab Khan suggested.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/26 | 650 | 2,244 | <issue_start>username_0: How can I get a wider LogCat output than the one from the terminal window? I also want to be able to pause the output so I can actually read something.
My OS is Windows 7 X64.<issue_comment>username_1: I don't know what logcat does so I can only guess you should use it the same way you do with any other command that spews out text.
Redirect the output to a file you can read in an editor or view with `less`
```
$>logcat [] [] > /path/to/a/file-to-open-in-an-editor
```
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: If you are using LogCat viewer in Eclipse you can click the "Scroll Lock" button to prevent it from automatically scrolling down.

It is the icon on the top right in the screenshot above.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Windows
=======
Its easier, what you can do is this, from the *cmd* window, `adb logcat > my_logcat.txt` and just let it run, now, you can pause, resume the scrolling, in that *cmd* window, same keystrokes for Linux terminal, IIRC, now launch an editor and open the file 'my\_logcat.txt' and there the results will show, had there not being a pause/resume in the cmd window, the file will get updated, such as using '[notepad2](http://www.flos-freeware.ch/notepad2.html)', '[Notepad++](http://notepad-plus-plus.org/)' or similar, the in-built Windows's version of Notepad would do very little justice.
Linux
=====
From a Linux terminal under a GUI such as KDE/Gnome, using the two utilities combined, found on most distributions, *[multitail](http://www.vanheusden.com/multitail/)*, which is like a `tail` unix utility, only more powerful!
```
adb logcat # want to see the logcat on the screen
```
Using Ctrl+S to suspend, then Ctrl+Q to resume the display, and simply mouse scroll the terminal to back-track seeing the logcat output.
The other way is this...
```
adb logcat > my_logcat.txt 2>&1 &
multitail my_logcat.txt
```
The first line above creates a background process by using the `&` at the end of the command, redirecting any errors to `/dev/null` hence `2>&1`.
As the process is forked into the background, using `multitail` can perform, scroll-back on the logcat.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2012/08/27 | 267 | 1,035 | <issue_start>username_0: As I have mentioned in the question, I want to transfer files (pics) from samsung galaxy S3 to HTC one x via NFC. I have switched on android beam on both the devices. When I bring the phones close, I am getting the "touch to beam" message on S3. When I touch it, I am getting a message that S beam is switched off, please switch it on. But I dont want Sbeam (as one x doesnt have it), instead I want the transfer to happen via Android beam.<issue_comment>username_1: As far as I know, you can't transfer files over Android beam, just URLs/locations etc. This is because Android Beam doesn't use Bluetooth or WiFi Direct in addition to the NFC transfer, which means that an average photo would take 30+ seconds to beam. In Android 4.1+ (Jelly Bean) you can transfer files with NFC+BT, and S Beam uses NFC+WiFi Direct.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You can install the official 'HTC transfer Tool' from the Google Play store on your old S3 and new HTC One. Pure simplicity :)
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/27 | 6,313 | 14,961 | <issue_start>username_0: Problem: No internet connection after 1+ minutes of sleep. Wi-Fi is still connected, i have IP assigned through DHCP, i can browse shared folders on PC in network. It looks similar as if i didn't allow WAN traffic for my MAC on my router (Old PC with floppy Coyote Linux router)
Temporary solution: Turn Wi-Fi off and on again.
Phone: Samsung Galaxy I9000, custom JB rom (latest CM10), custom JB kernel (latest Semaphore)
This problem is bothering me for a month now. I did following things trying to solve the issue:
1. Switched kernels (Semaphore, CM9, CM10, Devil's Kernel) (over CWM)
2. Switched ROM's (CM9, HellyBean, CM10) (over CWM)
3. Replaced XXJVT with XXJVU baseband only (over Odin, but got stuck without IMEI, phone number and data connection)
4. Changed encryption of AP from WPA to WPA2
5. Changed Wi-Fi channels from 11 to 6
6. Changed Wi-Fi from G to B+G
7. Switched off AP's QoS
8. Turned off router's firewall
9. Tried few Wi-Fi keep-alive apks
10. Rebooted Access Point, Router
11. Set "Always" in "Keep Wi-Fi on during sleep"
12. Disabled "Avoid poor connections"
13. Searched Google and forums, posted questions
14. Turned off Powersave Wi-Fi mode on kernel manager
15. Checked logcat (on the bottom see logcat within few minutes when connection was lost after screen turned off)
16. Used "forget network" for home Wi-Fi
I haven't flashed stock firmware all over again yet. I don't want to go through the process of reinstalling all the apps and accounts (Play doesn't want to restore them for some reason)
---
```
$08-26 09:47:00.800 D/SurfaceFlinger( 489): About to give-up screen, flinger = 0x419caaf0
$08-26 09:47:06.011 I/goggles ( 1726): BaseApplication: Getting userWantsHistory = false
$08-26 09:47:06.421 D/dalvikvm( 1726): GC_CONCURRENT freed 1870K, 66% free 2808K/8195K, paused 72ms+3ms, total 231ms
$08-26 09:47:06.421 D/dalvikvm( 1726): WAIT_FOR_CONCURRENT_GC blocked 112ms
$08-26 09:47:06.507 I/goggles ( 1726): FreshnessHelper: Checking for images newer than 1345938048000
$08-26 09:47:15.324 V/LockPatternKeyguardView( 664): Set visibility on com.android.internal.policy.impl.LockPatternKeyguardView$5@4191ecb8 to 8388608
$08-26 09:47:15.511 V/TransportControlView( 664): Create TCV com.android.internal.widget.TransportControlView@418c5560
$08-26 09:47:15.824 V/KeyguardViewManager( 664): KGVM: Set visibility on com.android.internal.policy.impl.KeyguardViewManager$KeyguardViewHost@40edc000 to 6291456
$08-26 09:47:15.839 D/PhoneStatusBar( 945): disable: < expand icons alerts ticker system_info back home RECENT* clock >
$08-26 09:47:16.019 D/dalvikvm( 664): GC_CONCURRENT freed 2953K, 41% free 13847K/23175K, paused 13ms+46ms, total 218ms
$08-26 09:47:16.019 D/dalvikvm( 664): WAIT_FOR_CONCURRENT_GC blocked 120ms
$08-26 09:47:16.050 V/LockPatternKeyguardView( 664): Set visibility on com.android.internal.policy.impl.LockPatternKeyguardView$5@4191ecb8 to 8388608
$08-26 09:47:16.054 D/PhoneStatusBar( 945): disable: < expand icons alerts ticker system_info BACK* HOME* RECENT CLOCK* >
$08-26 09:47:16.144 V/LockPatternKeyguardView( 664): Set visibility on com.android.internal.policy.impl.LockPatternKeyguardView$5@4191ecb8 to 8388608
$08-26 09:48:07.023 I/goggles ( 1726): BaseApplication: Getting userWantsHistory = false
$08-26 09:48:07.281 I/goggles ( 1726): FreshnessHelper: Checking for images newer than 1345938048000
$08-26 09:48:19.023 D/ConnectivityService( 664): ConnectivityChange for WIFI: CONNECTED/CONNECTED
$08-26 09:48:19.027 D/ConnectivityService( 664): handleConnectivityChange: address are the same reset per doReset linkProperty[1]: resetMask=0
$08-26 09:48:19.050 D/ConnectivityService( 664): ConnectivityChange for WIFI: CONNECTED/CONNECTED
$08-26 09:48:19.058 D/ConnectivityService( 664): handleConnectivityChange: address are the same reset per doReset linkProperty[1]: resetMask=0
$[COLOR="red"]08-26 09:48:20.027 D/ConnectivityService( 664): NetTransition Wakelock for WifiStateMachine released by timeout[/COLOR]
$08-26 09:49:02.027 D/Sensors ( 664): Smb380Sensor::~enable(0, 1)
$08-26 09:49:02.027 D/Sensors ( 664): Smb380Sensor::~enable(0, 1) open /sys/class/input/event1/device/enable
$08-26 09:49:02.027 D/Sensors ( 664): Smb380Sensor::~enable(0, 1) opened /sys/class/input/event1/device/enable
$08-26 09:49:02.035 D/Sensors ( 664): Smb380Sensor::~setDelay(0, 200000000)
$08-26 09:49:02.035 D/Sensors ( 664): Smb380Sensor::~setDelay(0, 66667000)
$08-26 09:49:02.187 I/WindowManager( 664): Lock screen displayed!
$08-26 09:49:02.210 D/SurfaceFlinger( 489): Screen about to return, flinger = 0x419caaf0
$08-26 09:49:02.472 D/Tethering( 664): MasterInitialState.processMessage what=3
$08-26 09:49:02.609 D/Tethering( 664): MasterInitialState.processMessage what=3
$08-26 09:49:03.003 [COLOR="Red"]D/ConnectivityService( 664): handleInetConditionHoldEnd: net=1, condition=100, published condition=0[/COLOR]
$08-26 09:49:03.214 D/PicasaUploaderSyncManager(24298): active network: NetworkInfo: type: WIFI[], state: CONNECTED/CONNECTED, reason: (unspecified), extra: (none), roaming: false, failover: false, isAvailable: true
$08-26 09:49:03.214 D/PicasaUploaderSyncManager(24298): background data: true
$08-26 09:49:03.496 W/ContextScopeImpl(24312): thread=1 tried to enter the scope of the application context. Ignored.
$08-26 09:49:03.503 W/ContextScopeImpl(24312): thread=1 tried to enter the scope of the application context. Ignored.
$08-26 09:49:03.519 I/goggles ( 1726): BaseApplication: Getting userWantsHistory = false
$08-26 09:49:03.691 I/goggles ( 1726): FreshnessHelper: Checking for images newer than 1345938048000
$08-26 09:49:03.917 D/PicasaSyncManager(22933): active network: NetworkInfo: type: WIFI[], state: CONNECTED/CONNECTED, reason: (unspecified), extra: (none), roaming: false, failover: false, isAvailable: true
$08-26 09:49:03.917 D/PicasaSyncManager(22933): background data: true
$08-26 09:49:04.074 W/ContextScopeImpl(24312): thread=1 tried to enter the scope of the application context. Ignored.
$08-26 09:49:04.082 W/ContextScopeImpl(24312): thread=1 tried to enter the scope of the application context. Ignored.
$08-26 09:49:04.093 I/goggles ( 1726): BaseApplication: Getting userWantsHistory = false
$08-26 09:49:04.187 D/PicasaUploaderSyncManager(24298): active network: NetworkInfo: type: WIFI[], state: CONNECTED/CONNECTED, reason: (unspecified), extra: (none), roaming: false, failover: false, isAvailable: true
$08-26 09:49:04.222 D/PicasaUploaderSyncManager(24298): background data: true
$08-26 09:49:04.246 D/PicasaSyncManager(22933): active network: NetworkInfo: type: WIFI[], state: CONNECTED/CONNECTED, reason: (unspecified), extra: (none), roaming: false, failover: false, isAvailable: true
$08-26 09:49:04.246 D/PicasaSyncManager(22933): background data: true
$08-26 09:49:04.464 D/dalvikvm( 1726): GC_CONCURRENT freed 1854K, 66% free 2797K/8195K, paused 81ms+67ms, total 245ms
$08-26 09:49:04.464 D/dalvikvm( 1726): WAIT_FOR_CONCURRENT_GC blocked 136ms
$08-26 09:49:04.503 I/goggles ( 1726): FreshnessHelper: Checking for images newer than 1345938048000
$08-26 09:49:06.394 I/ActivityManager( 664): Process com.tmobile.thememanager (pid 24054) has died.
$08-26 09:49:12.039 D/Sensors ( 664): Smb380Sensor::~enable(0, 0)
$08-26 09:49:12.050 D/Sensors ( 664): Smb380Sensor::~enable(0, 0) open /sys/class/input/event1/device/enable
$08-26 09:49:12.050 D/Sensors ( 664): Smb380Sensor::~enable(0, 0) opened /sys/class/input/event1/device/enable
$08-26 09:49:12.066 D/Sensors ( 664): Smb380Sensor::~setDelay(0, 66667000)
$08-26 09:49:12.441 D/dalvikvm( 664): GC_CONCURRENT freed 2495K, 39% free 14281K/23175K, paused 18ms+11ms, total 137ms
$08-26 09:49:12.441 D/dalvikvm( 664): WAIT_FOR_CONCURRENT_GC blocked 109ms
$08-26 09:49:12.445 D/dalvikvm( 664): WAIT_FOR_CONCURRENT_GC blocked 79ms
$08-26 09:49:12.457 V/TransportControlView( 664): Create TCV com.android.internal.widget.TransportControlView@40e3b4f8
$08-26 09:49:12.570 D/SurfaceFlinger( 489): About to give-up screen, flinger = 0x419caaf0
$08-26 09:49:12.656 V/LockPatternKeyguardView( 664): Set visibility on com.android.internal.policy.impl.LockPatternKeyguardView$5@4191ecb8 to 8388608
$08-26 09:49:12.687 V/LockPatternKeyguardView( 664): Set visibility on com.android.internal.policy.impl.LockPatternKeyguardView$5@4191ecb8 to 8388608
$[COLOR="Red"]08-26 09:49:23.093 W/ThrottleService( 664): unable to find stats for iface pdp0[/COLOR]
$08-26 09:50:07.011 I/goggles ( 1726): BaseApplication: Getting userWantsHistory = false
$08-26 09:50:07.203 I/goggles ( 1726): FreshnessHelper: Checking for images newer than 1345938048000
$08-26 09:50:08.261 D/dalvikvm( 664): WAIT_FOR_CONCURRENT_GC blocked 0ms
$08-26 09:50:08.382 D/dalvikvm( 664): GC_EXPLICIT freed 1119K, 38% free 14381K/23175K, paused 8ms+8ms, total 121ms
$08-26 09:50:44.695 D/ConnectivityService( 664): ConnectivityChange for WIFI: CONNECTED/CONNECTED
$08-26 09:50:44.707 D/ConnectivityService( 664): handleConnectivityChange: address are the same reset per doReset linkProperty[1]: resetMask=0
$08-26 09:50:44.718 D/ConnectivityService( 664): ConnectivityChange for WIFI: CONNECTED/CONNECTED
$08-26 09:50:44.734 D/ConnectivityService( 664): handleConnectivityChange: address are the same reset per doReset linkProperty[1]: resetMask=0
$[COLOR="red"]08-26 09:50:45.699 D/ConnectivityService( 664): NetTransition Wakelock for WifiStateMachine released by timeout[/COLOR]
$08-26 09:51:07.242 I/goggles ( 1726): BaseApplication: Getting userWantsHistory = false
$08-26 09:51:07.421 I/goggles ( 1726): FreshnessHelper: Checking for images newer than 1345938048000
$08-26 09:51:07.425 D/Tethering( 664): MasterInitialState.processMessage what=3
$08-26 09:51:07.453 D/Tethering( 664): MasterInitialState.processMessage what=3
$08-26 09:51:07.589 W/ContextScopeImpl(24312): thread=1 tried to enter the scope of the application context. Ignored.
$08-26 09:51:07.609 W/ContextScopeImpl(24312): thread=1 tried to enter the scope of the application context. Ignored.
$08-26 09:51:07.625 I/goggles ( 1726): BaseApplication: Getting userWantsHistory = false
$08-26 09:51:07.625 D/PicasaUploaderSyncManager(24298): active network: NetworkInfo: type: WIFI[], state: CONNECTED/CONNECTED, reason: (unspecified), extra: (none), roaming: false, failover: false, isAvailable: true
$08-26 09:51:07.828 D/PicasaSyncManager(22933): active network: NetworkInfo: type: WIFI[], state: CONNECTED/CONNECTED, reason: (unspecified), extra: (none), roaming: false, failover: false, isAvailable: true
$08-26 09:51:07.863 D/dalvikvm( 1726): GC_CONCURRENT freed 1840K, 66% free 2800K/8195K, paused 19ms+26ms, total 93ms
$08-26 09:51:07.863 D/dalvikvm( 1726): WAIT_FOR_CONCURRENT_GC blocked 21ms
$08-26 09:51:07.910 I/goggles ( 1726): FreshnessHelper: Checking for images newer than 1345938048000
$08-26 09:51:07.933 D/PicasaUploaderSyncManager(24298): background data: true
$08-26 09:51:07.937 D/PicasaSyncManager(22933): background data: true
$08-26 09:51:07.964 D/PicasaUploaderSyncManager(24298): active network: NetworkInfo: type: WIFI[], state: CONNECTED/CONNECTED, reason: (unspecified), extra: (none), roaming: false, failover: false, isAvailable: true
$08-26 09:51:07.964 D/PicasaUploaderSyncManager(24298): background data: true
```<issue_comment>username_1: Flashing baseband via Odin lost my IMEI and phone number and connectivity. I have fixed this by flashing modem via CWM.
After that the disconnections have seemed to stop. Also another problem got solved - before i couldn't copy +200MB file from PC to Android via Samba Fileserver - something disconnected the process every time. Now i can copy 300MB file without disconnections.
I will wait for a day or two and try to mess with Wi-Fi settings and let you know if the problem is really solved.
Izzy: I am sure my internet was going through Wi-Fi. Now the logs are different than before flashing modem (or replacing kernel, although kernel didn't solve the problem). Here is what i get if i check what you suggested:
```
cat /proc/net/route
Iface Destination Gateway Flags RefCnt Use Metric Mask MTU Window IRTT
wlan0 00000000 0102A8C0 0003 0 0 0 00000000 0 0 0
wlan0 0002A8C0 00000000 0001 0 0 0 00FFFFFF 0 0 0
wlan0 0102A8C0 00000000 0005 0 0 0 FFFFFFFF 0 0 0
root@android:/ # netstat -nr
netstat -nr
Proto Recv-Q Send-Q Local Address Foreign Address State
tcp 0 0 127.0.0.1:7777 0.0.0.0:* LISTEN
tcp 0 0 127.0.0.1:7203 0.0.0.0:* LISTEN
tcp 0 0 127.0.0.1:5037 0.0.0.0:* LISTEN
tcp 0 0 0.0.0.0:5555 0.0.0.0:* LISTEN
tcp 62 0 192.168.2.116:5555 192.168.2.100:12979 ESTABLISHED
tcp 0 0 127.0.0.1:37807 127.0.0.1:7777 ESTABLISHED
tcp 0 0 127.0.0.1:7777 127.0.0.1:37807 ESTABLISHED
tcp 0 0 127.0.0.1:37806 127.0.0.1:7777 ESTABLISHED
tcp 0 0 127.0.0.1:7777 127.0.0.1:37806 ESTABLISHED
tcp6 0 0 fc00:db20:35b:7399::5:192.168.2.116:58387 fc00:db20:35b:7399::5:192.168.3.11:5228 ESTABLISHED
tcp6 0 1 fc00:db20:35b:7399::5:192.168.2.116:50048 fc00:db20:35b:7399::5:172.16.31.10:443 CLOSE_WAIT
root@android:/ #
```
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_1: **I have solved the problem by flashing modem (aka baseband aka radio) only through CWM / recovery mode.**
This way i have kept all my settings and apk's and rom and kernel.
The files i have used (for SGS i9000) can be found here: <http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1158783>
You have to choose appropriate modem according to your phone/location/operator.
Perhaps it needs to be done twice or with correct modem (i suggest trying few times).
*My actual procedure (i don't suggest repeating it) was: flashing several tar.md5 modem files several times via Odin which didn't work and I've lost my IMEI and phone number and signal. Later i have restored backed up /efs folder bud didn't help with IMEI. Then i flashed zip modem files over CWM in recovery mode which solved both problems.*
Personally i have tried i9000xxjvu and i9000xwjw1 and both worked. After updating ROM with latest nightlies and later changing the kernel i notice that baseband version doesn't change.
This is probably why i couldn't solve the problem by changing roms and kernels before.
I read somewhere that modem does not affect Wi-Fi, but obviously it does to some degree.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: I was having similar problem after flashing a new ROM.
For me exempting `com.qualcomm.qti.tetherservice` service from Battery Saver worked. You have to choose "Don't Optimize" in order for it to work correctly.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/27 | 2,387 | 8,695 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a two-week-old Google/Asus Nexus 7 tablet, unrooted and otherwise standard.
Yesterday it ran out of charge a *lot* faster than it usually does, and wouldn't seem to recharge. When it finally ran completely out of juice it shut down.
Now when I turn it on, it gets stuck in an endless boot loop. I contacted Google's support and they're looking to send out a new item. However if I go that road, I'll lose the data on there.
Has anyone experienced this issue? Is there anything else I could try? Thanks!<issue_comment>username_1: (EDIT)
This answer is only really helpful for unlocked tablets.. Look after this paragraph if that is already the case. Otherwise read on.
"fastboot oem unlock" also does a factory reset, you need to have it unlocked before you need it, alas. This is both good for privacy and bad for recovery from half-bricked devices... The factory reset does In fact a secure erase which nullifies all your data.
According to [Android: Building for devices](http://source.android.com/source/building-devices.html):
>
> $ fastboot oem unlock
> The procedure must be confirmed on-screen, and deletes the user data for privacy reasons. It only needs to be run once.
>
>
>
```
$ fastboot boot recovery-clockwork-6.0.1.0-grouper.img
downloading 'boot.img'...
FAILED (remote: Bootloader is locked.)
finished. total time: 0.020s
$ fastboot oem unlock
...
(bootloader) erasing userdata...
(bootloader) erasing userdata done
(bootloader) erasing cache...
(bootloader) erasing cache done
(bootloader) unlocking...
(bootloader) Bootloader is unlocked now.
OKAY [ 12.704s]
finished. total time: 12.704s
$ fastboot flash recovery recovery-clockwork-6.0.1.0-grouper.img
sending 'recovery' (6480 KB)...
OKAY [ 0.785s]
writing 'recovery'...
OKAY [ 0.225s]
finished. total time: 1.010s
# after that boot into the recovery (don't boot normal! it overwrites valuable data...)
$ adb shell cat /dev/block/platform/sdhci-tegra.3/by-name/UDA \| gzip -1 -c \| uuencode bla | uudecode -o - | gunzip -dc | bar > /media/qnap/backup/n7.data.formatted.img
```
(END EDIT)
You can boot a temporary custom recovery and create a backup of your device.
It should also be possible to wipe it afterwards and recover from your problem without having to send it back at all (provided it's not a hardware issue).
Steps:
* install the SDK (if not already done) and have working adb + fastboot executables ready
* Download a CWM recovery image from [here](http://download2.clockworkmod.com/recoveries/recovery-clockwork-6.0.1.0-grouper.img)
* unlock your Nexus 7's bootloader: `fastboot oem unlock`
[Here's](http://source.android.com/source/building-devices.html) how to enter the fastboot mode (the Nexus 7's codename is *grouper*):
*Press Power for a second, and press Volume Down when the bootloader logo appears*
* boot into a **temporary** CWM recovery: `fastboot boot recovery-clockwork-6.0.1.0-grouper.img`
* Create a nandroid/CWM backup from your broken installation (backup&restore->backup)
+ after the backup is complete, try to pull all data from your device:
**adb shell mount** (should list something like /dev/block/mmcblk0p1 on /sdcard or so (not really sure however)
**adb pull /sdcard backup/** (replace /sdcard with the above noticed directory, this should extract all your data to backup/)
check if everything is transmitted correctly)
+ you can buy [TitaniumBackup+ProKey](https://play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=Titanium%20Track) afterwards (it allows extracting data from Nandroid backups quite easily)
* If that fails you can alternatively leech everything manually with adb:
I assume you use Linux.
.
```
#list available devices:
adb shell ls /dev/block
adb shell cat /proc/partitions
#create images for each mtdblock
#uuencoding is needed because the shell interferes with the stream (adds linefeeds or so):
adb shell cat /dev/block/mtdblockX \| uuencode foo | uudecode -o mtdblockX.img
adb shell cat /dev/block/mmcblkXXX \| uuencode foo | uudecode -o mmcblkXXX
#compare md5sums:
adb shell md5sum /dev/block/*
md5sum mtdblock* mmcblk*
# Look for reasonably sized images and what file system they are:
ls -lh mtdblock* mmcblk*
file mtdblock* mmcblk*
# You should be able to mount those images now (if you happen to use linux):
mount -t ext4 -oloop,ro mtdblockX /media/mtdblockX
# Now use some file-explorer to access your saved data
```
* Final step:
If you are **really sure** that you got all your data back, boot back into the CWM recovery (see step above) and issue a **wipe data/factory reset** command. Then reboot and re-setup your tablet (hopefully you don't have a hardware issue).
* Optional step: relock your bootloader via `fastboot oem lock`
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I just had a quite similar problem with my Galaxy Nexus (it didn't go past the Nexus X logo) and it **seems it's not possible to make a backup with a locked bootloader and without root** (at least not with Android 4.2).
I thought username_1's method could be a good try and so I unlocked the bootloader and then immediately booted clockwork recovery. Next, using adb shell I transfered the whole userdata partition (~14GB) and opening it in a hex editor I saw it's full of zero's 00. To be really sure I did a `hexdump` in adb shell and I saw the same (should have done this first). It's been completely wiped.
So **unlocking the bootloader does do a full wipe of userdata and cache partitions and it's not possible to recover anything after that**. Doing a quick search I wasn't able to find the exact file in android source where it's implemented (would be interesting...)
Sometimes Android is just too secure. I wish there would be way to backup data from fastboot (or Odin mode). With a locked bootloader it could even ask for a password or something. Anyway after this my phone did boot again and everything is working. Only my data has been lost forever...
To everyone I suggest to unlock the bootloader as soon as you get your droid and also make backups regularly...
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I had the same auto startup loop zero battery problem after 6 months or so of flawless use. The tablet experienced zero battery. Upon plugging in the Asus, the power supply would start up, go to home screen, and display "shutting down" after 2 seconds. As it shut down, it would show a screen of "static noise" like an untuned analog tv. Then, say two minutes or so later, it would repeat without any intervention, and ad infinitum. Battery never goes over zero.
There is a [thread](http://forums.androidcentral.com/google-nexus-7-tablet-forum/228354-nexus-7-help-wont-startup-static-screen-sound-shown-auto-shutdown-loop.html) here that is also about the same issue.
There is an albeit slightly hard to understand fix offered in the above thread, which started with "plug into pc". I tried to follow steps without plugging into PC, as I could see no particular reason why this would make a difference, without joy. I then plugged into PC USB. Large "battery charging" screen immediately displayed, and I'm currently just letting it charge (if it actually is). Very odd flaw. I imagine as the batteries get a little older, this may become a common experience for many.
I recommend checking the Android Central thread. I'll be replying there with my results.
\_ just a quick update here (I did put full process I undertook on the other thread though) to say it all worked out well, and after leaving to charge from pc, the tablet finally started up normally again. Phew...
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I know it is a late answer, but it might help out others.
This might seem ridiculous, but this is what was causing the bootlooping on my Nexus 7. My tablet arrived from Amazon, I took it out of the box, plugged it in to charge. Battery icon didnt show a charge. Started it up and it got to the Google and the lock, then would restart over and over. So I did some reading and came across this fix.
Some how the tablet got "jostled", in other words banged. the tape that holds the battery wasn't placed properly so it allowed the battery to shift ever so slightly causing the cable to pull apart from the connection. enough to make a bootloop.
*now the fix*
Pull the back cover off, peel the tape back off the top of the battery, GENTLY PULL OR TWIST the battery (there is double-sided tape underneath it) to realign it so the cable can be attached correctly. When finished put the tape back across the battery and close the case up.
*This is just one possible cause of bootlooping, the other answers will also work depending on circumstances.*
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/27 | 271 | 1,032 | <issue_start>username_0: I forgot the USB cable and I have some files on the Mac that I would like to transfer to my nexus 7. Is it possible to do this via bluetooth? Is there an app that can do this?<issue_comment>username_1: Provided both the Android handset and your Mac share a common wifi connection (same AP that allows client-to-client connections):
Install an FTP server or a webserver app that allows uploading:
For example [Airdroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sand.airdroid). It allows file-uploading via drag&drop even. You'll find your uploaded files in airdroid/upload in the SDcard folder.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: It's not Bluetooth, but try my Open Source project [cross copy](http://cross-copy.net) for inter-device copy and paste:
1. browse to <http://cross-copy.net> on both devices
2. choose the same code word to establish a connection between the devices
3. upload the files on the Mac
4. a download link for each file will appear on the page of the Nexus 7
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/28 | 1,236 | 4,909 | <issue_start>username_0: There are at least a dozen "Faster GPS Fix" apps in the Play Store -- one is even a $5 paid app -- and they remind me of those RAM Booster/Optimizer utilities of the 1990s.

What do they do -- and the better question is: why doesn't Android do this by itself?<issue_comment>username_1: One of the apps you have a picture of, the venerable [GPS Status & Toolbox](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.eclipsim.gpsstatus2&hl=en), describes this claim in the app description:
>
> **Keep your GPS fast:** reset it or download A-GPS data regularly for faster fixes
>
>
>
Wikipedia does a great job defining the basic concepts behind [Assisted-GPS](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A-GPS):
>
> Standalone GPS provides first position in approximately 30–40 seconds. A Standalone GPS system needs orbital information of the satellites to calculate the current position. The data rate of the satellite signal is only 50 bit/s, so downloading orbital information like ephemeris and almanac directly from satellites typically takes a long time, and if the satellite signals are lost during the acquisition of this information, it is discarded and the standalone system has to start from scratch. In AGPS, the Network Operator deploys an AGPS server. These AGPS servers download the orbital information from the satellite and store it in the database. An AGPS capable device can connect to these servers and download this information using Mobile Network radio bearers such as GSM, CDMA, WCDMA, LTE or even using other wireless radio bearers such as Wi-Fi. Usually the data rate of these bearers is high, hence downloading orbital information takes less time.
>
>
>
If your phone's A-GPS cache is corrupt or stale, forcing a refresh can be beneficial. Normally, Android does in fact take care of maintaining this cache automatically. I've personally only used this app to help diagnose and solve GPS problems, something it does very well. In normal usage I wouldn't bother with the A-GPS cache until you find it needs intervention.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: There is another style of app that simply keeps the gps working non-stop or more regularly.
The android system, unlike CE and systems used in various GPS only units, has a feature of letting the GPS go back to sleep until needed. Or we could reverse that and say that it only wakes it up as needed. This can save a lot of power (a lot more in the early years of these devices).
If you can keep the GPS reciever awake and continually polling the sattalites, any time you actually need this data , it will be working, it will be gathering data from many sattalites and the accuracy of a single quick poll of the location will be much better.
Again only because the GPS receiver is running non-stop. (not too special, but it is a method)
One app of this style is "tracker booster" , also "gps status" (a real status program) has both methods possible (AGPS and Keep alive). Many Car Dock and Car Home type apps, will apply the "keep polling" the gps method. Plus any app that simply needs to use the GPS data, speed widgets, speedometers, location tools.
Anything that keeps the gps awake and going.
When is a Location not a good location :-)
Quick polls of the sat data from the gps only expect there to be a "lock" which only requires 2 sats for 2D and 3 sats for 3D positioning. But this position is not hugely accurate. Given enough time running, the GPS can lock onto more like 8-20 sats (in the US) and aquire a positioning that is within 9 Meters (thats about max from what I have seen). Add in some averaging (multiple polls same location) a full fix, clear view of the sky I can confirm my location within about a 10 feet area.
The claims of this style of apps to be more accurate, and faster fixes, is achieved by keeping the gps awake, that is all.
When Hiking, GPS tracking, GPS cache hunting, or car navigating, most applications already Keep the GPS running non-stop, but not all of them, and not for all situations.
If an app is pushed to the background and has no settings for keeping the GPS alive, when it comes back on the accuracy will suffer some for a while.
Serious GPSers will employ such a method to . . . Keep the gps alive, which does help.
In this different method, AGPS assistance can still be employed to gain a faster first fix. If your device has no data connection of any sort, And the GPS software does not fail when AGPS is not loaded, Keeping the GPS going will keep a good fix on the sats going, AGPS at that point is unnessisary.
Both types of programs show up in the store , often with very poor explaination of the functions, so it helps to know what method(s) is employed.
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/08/28 | 615 | 2,308 | <issue_start>username_0: Since the sync utility I use to sync my Samsung Galaxy Nexus with Outlook only supports Wi-Fi instead of USB, I searched the AppStore for an application that adds a shortcut on the screen to make it easier to turn Wi-Fi on and off.
I tried [DroidMania](http://www.droid-mania.com/)'s, but it doesn't seem to work (when clicking on the icon, it simply displays a text page). Next, I tried [Hotspot Widget](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=at.mysandbox.android.hotspotwidget), but nothing happens when I click on the shortcut. Other apps seem old, are only 1.0, and might not work either.
Hard to believe something that simple couldn't be found easily.
Does anyone know of a very simple application that
1. Simply adds a shortcut on the screen to do this.
2. And, definitely works on the Samsung Galaxy Nexus?<issue_comment>username_1: On the Samsung Galaxy Nexus, you can add the Android built-in "Power Control" widget to your screen, this has a one-click button for turning Wifi on and off on the left-hand end of the bar.

*(screen shot is from the home screen of my Galaxy Nexus, but this power bar has been built-in to Android since at least v1.6, though some manufacturer customizations do remove/change it)*
To add this press the circle-with-dots-in icon at the bottom of the home screen to go to your apps list, then select the "**WIDGETS**" tab at the top of the screen and scroll along until you see "Power Control" or "Settings", hold your finger down on that and it should allow you to drag that to an empty spot on one of your home screens.
Also, if you've received the Jelly Bean 4.2.1 update, it contains a quick settings menu that allows you to get right into the Wi-Fi page in settings. You can swipe down with two fingers from the notification bar, or swipe once and click the button in the top righthand corner.

Then you long-press on the Wifi icon to turn it on or off.

Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: If you have Android ICS you can simply drag the notification area and turn wifi on/off from there.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/28 | 205 | 844 | <issue_start>username_0: When I enable Data Network, my phone goes back to home screen frequently whenever I use another application or go to another place. Even when I close my screen, my home screen appears. How to fix this error? When i deactivate the data network mode, the phone works normally.. please please please update me the solution on it.
My phone is Samsung Galaxy S plus.
Model Number - GT-I9001
Firmware version - 2.3.6<issue_comment>username_1: Same phone. Never had this happen to me.
Using a custom ROM though. BroodROM Business Edition.
I would recommend upgrading your system or flashing a custom ROM.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: This is happening because of WakeLocks. You can use 'Phantom key press manager' to avoid wakelocks. My i9001 is working like a gem after installing the application.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/28 | 214 | 827 | <issue_start>username_0: I installed an Audio Mod 'BeatsAudio' through clockworkmod recovery on my HTC Desire. After i rebooted it just keeps looping the boot logo over and over. I have tried removing the battery, sim and SD card, and also no luck there.
I've also tried wiping the data and cache partition but that doesn't help. I can get in the HBOOT menu but unrevoked doesn't seem to recognize my phone. I have tried ropening a stock boot rom to see if that would install it but it tells me its not compatible with my 64Bit OS.
I have no idea what else to do.<issue_comment>username_1: You installed Mod to **system**, so you need to reflash ROM from recovery.
Erase user data (hard reset) will not help you.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: wipe dalvik cache after wiping cache
reboot and wait a while
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/28 | 543 | 1,873 | <issue_start>username_0: I am thinking about getting the new Galaxy Note phone, but I want to put it on Virgin Mobile (US). Is this possible? If not does anyone know of any phone service like Virgin Mobile I can put the Galaxy Note on?<issue_comment>username_1: No, this isn't possible. The Galaxy Note is a [GSM](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gsm) phone whereas [Virgin Mobile USA](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virgin_mobile#Virgin_Mobile_USA) is a [CDMA](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cdma) network (it is a subsidiary of Sprint). The two are not compatible. In addition to this, CDMA carriers typically only activate phones that are specifically branded for their networks, so you can't even use a Sprint phone on Virgin unless you "know a guy" or find a *really* nice rep.
[The Galaxy Note](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samsung_Galaxy_Note) is quad-band GSM/UMTS, supporting the 850/900/1800/1900 MHz GSM bands and 850/900/1900/2100 MHz UMTS (3G) bands. If you get one that is not carrier locked then you can use it on AT&T, T-Mobile, and any smaller US carrier that uses their spectrum (Straight Talk, for example).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: It's possible now that Sprint is selling this phone with the radio that is needed for the Sprint network. I'm not sure how to get the store to activate the Note 2 yet. You may need to talk to them in person.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: me thinks it can be done because a Virgin Mobile phone rep told me that I could use a Verizon Note 3(Verizon 4G LTE phones are unlocked) but wouldn't you just know when I got the Note 3 and went to activate on Virgin Mobile I was shot down!
AND I have a friend that has an old sim from Virgin Mobile and when she put that sim in the Verizon Note 3? In the settings of the phone(Apps > Settings > GENERAL > About phone > Status), it showed her phone number
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/29 | 1,042 | 3,280 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm looking for an easy way, which doesn't need Unlocking bootloader or flashing Roms, just like root solution for SE 2011 devices (one click). It's because I currently use my Xperia S for development purposes and can't afford bricking it! please tell me if there is a solution. Thanks!<issue_comment>username_1: There's a guide on [Rooting Xperia S ICS and GB](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1742992) over at XDAs. Not having any XPeria device, I cannot verify -- but the comments on the thread confirm it working. It does not even require the bootloader to be unlocked.
Requirements for that method:
-----------------------------
* Windows
* Net framework 3.5 or later
Preparation:
------------
1. Application Settings: [Unknown sources] checked {Allowed}
2. Application Settings: Development [USB debugging] checked {Allowed}
3. Application Settings: Development [Stay awake] checked {Allowed}
4. Settings -> Display settings [Screen timeout] Set to 30 minutes
**If your screen goes off just once then you won’t be able to return to the installation properly. Very important!!**
Please think about your battery and try to keep the display brightness to a minimum.
5. Please use a regular picture for the background. Do not use the default live wallpaper.
6. Charge the Xperia S’s battery to 80%.
7. Use the Generic CH (1257-3740) XPERIA S LT26i ROM (6.1.A.0.452).
Can be found here along with the latest FLASTOOL link: [XDA FileServer](http://www.xdafileserver.nl/index.php?dir=Sony+%28Ericsson%29%2FSE+Xperia+S+%28LT26i%29%2FSTOCK+ROMS)
8. Net framework 3.5 or later
9. Gingerbread [part 1](http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?004x3fnftr32135) and [part 2](http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?23e963o6a8dq8rg)
It also mentions a [Root Toolkit](http://www.mediafire.com/?o1v2o6afuoc1w33).
Installation Process:
---------------------
1. Flash Gingerbread firmware wiping data and cache only if you are not on gingerbread
2. Run Step 1.bat
3. Install ICE CREAM SANDWICH without wiping anything
4. Run step 2.bat
>
> To enter CWM recovery you have to tap on sony logo at start few times.
>
>
> If it does not root properly first time run it again
>
>
> Thanks to Bin4ry for the files
>
>
>
Alternative: Unlocking the Bootloader
-------------------------------------
An alternative method involves the SDK, and is described at [AndroidPit](http://www.androidpit.de/de/android/forum/thread/473599/) (German; Google Translate 2 English [here](http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.androidpit.de%2Fde%2Fandroid%2Fforum%2Fthread%2F473599%2FAnleitung-Unlock-und-Root-fuer-euer-Sony-Xperia-S)). this method, however, involves unlocking the bootloader -- so be aware of Sony's harsh politics when it comes to warranty in this case.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Ok, at last, the mighty user of XDA, Bin4ary, has released a very nice and easy toolkit to root ICS JB roms of most sony phones, including Xperia S.
I used the tool and easily rooted my phone. Very fast and painless. No need to flash or unlock bootloader or anything.
If you are also interested, this is the page on XDA:
<http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1886460>
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2012/08/29 | 588 | 2,363 | <issue_start>username_0: I've tried using various call recording apps, and standard voice recording, but none do the job.
I need to record **both sides** of a Skype call made on my Android phone. Unfortunately time is short and I need to do this in a couple of hours, any advice appreciated.<issue_comment>username_1: This probably is too late to be of help to the OP, but this question is valid and could be useful for others.
Found this: <http://community.skype.com/t5/Video-INACTIVE/Record-video-calls-windows/m-p/3012#M44> but it pertains to windows and not the phone environment.
Unfortunately on android, Skype itself would have to have this feature for the best overall success.
Related topics with good answers:
* <https://stackoverflow.com/questions/5382212/capture-video-of-androids-screen>
* <https://stackoverflow.com/questions/3176555/android-capture-screen-of-phone-as-a-movie>
* Direct link: [Droid@Screen](http://blog.ribomation.com/droid-at-screen/)
An on-phone solution to recording audio would have to simultaneously record incoming mic audio (from you) and outgoing speaker audio (from other). However, you could simply record the stream externally and use a movie/video editor to synchronize the video and audio streams.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: The problem with recording is dependent on the kernel if that kernel has the capability to do so within the audio hardware driver!
That aside, another aspect, this governs actual phone calls, is that audio is a mutually exclusive thing, lift handset, audio, speaker is routed to respective hardware pieces, if not in call, audio and speaker gets routed to speaker (combine that with headset and another route is made!)
Now I do not know if that principle applies to VOIP over wifi (as have never tried it!)
Another thing, depending on where you are, this will be dependent on jurisdiction of your country, two way recording could be seen as illegal and may/could be equivalent to wire-tapping, IANAL!
Check first, if that's "ok to do", then check with the party involved first if they actually mind being recorded, if not, then you could end up in trouble for *invasion of privacy and recording their conversation without their consent*
I am loosely saying that as its a questionable thing to do and do not know legalese but its something to bear in mind.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/29 | 523 | 2,151 | <issue_start>username_0: Will Dropbox delete a file from my cloud storage after I upload it?
So if I upload a photo with the Dropbox app, then delete it from the phone, will it remain in my Dropbox storage?<issue_comment>username_1: If you delete a file from your mobile device, the file remains on your Online storage.
To have the file permanently deleted, you need to delete it from your online Dropbox account, accessing it via their website.
I've just run this exercise *(to prove the theory)*:
1. Take photos;
2. Sync Dropbox;
3. Delete photos from my device;
4. Access laptop;
5. Photos were downloaded;
6. [Access Dropbox website and login to your personal account](https://www.dropbox.com/login);
7. Delete photos;
8. Photos were automatically removed from Laptop and a notification was presented asking if I wanted to undo the operation.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Dropbox doesn't work the same way on Android as it does on dektop platforms: **It does not monitor a directory for changes.** In fact, you only can download selected files, which will be saved on a cache directory on your Android device. The Dropbox app would not instantly notice if you delete the file. Only if you try do retrieve the file again from the cloud, the Dropbox app would search for the file in the local cache directroy first. If it isn't here, it will just download the file again.
But you can delete a file from the cloud storage by selecting the delete option in the Dropbox app. Same thing goes for upload: You have to select a file in order to upload it into the cloud.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_3: As said before, [Dropbox for Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.dropbox.android) works differently than the desktop program. It's just an interface to access your online account, with some special features like caching. For example, you can "favorite" a file for offline access and edit some files directly from the app. But if you want an app that works exactly like the desktop program, you can try [Dropsync](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.ttxapps.dropsync).
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/08/29 | 304 | 1,164 | <issue_start>username_0: I am interested in purchasing the Game from Google Play Store, but when I try to purchase it using the **buy** Button in game menu it takes me to Play store and there I get a message `"You already own this item"`, but when I click on details button in the message box the play store application crashes.
Now I don't know even if I own this or not. If I own it then why didn't I received this full version and if I do not own it then how I will be able to purchase it?<issue_comment>username_1: Summed up from the comments:
This was a known issue with *Google Play*, which meanwhile is resolved (read more on [this Google support page](https://support.google.com/googleplay/known-issues/1319135?hl=en), opening the "fixed/resolved" item, and there you see `[#8849329] Falsely received error: "You already own this item"`, together with more details).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: The best option that worked for me was to install the following app that will allow you to download the app again "Purchased Apps (Reinstall your paid apps)" <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.azefsw.purchasedapps&hl=en>
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/29 | 412 | 1,466 | <issue_start>username_0: *Samsung Galaxy Ace 2.*
Let's say I have 3 desktops, I can scroll from 1 to 2, from 2 to 3 and... from 3 to 1. The last one is undesired by me, so how I can disable this effect?<issue_comment>username_1: Just use your fingers in the main page.
Place one finger on the top of the screen and the other on te bottom. Then, diagonally, slide them untill the middle, joining them. That should expand all the pages you havr. After that select the one ypu want by long pressing it and slide it to the bim to remove it. Good luck!
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_2: It is likely that the option does not exist on your stock phone launcher (can't confirm that, I have a different phone), but if it does, it should have the keywords "looping", "wrap around", "circular scrolling" in the settings.
I would recommend installing one of the following 3rd party launcher instead, which do not wrap around by default, and provide other useful functionality:
1. [Go Launcher Ex](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gau.go.launcherex&hl=en)
2. [ADW.Launcher](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.adw.launcher&hl=en)
3. [LauncherPro](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.fede.launcher&hl=en)
Go Launcher Ex appears to be in active development though so you'll probably have better support going with it. There are other launchers as well but these 3 are the ones I have used before.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2012/08/29 | 3,237 | 10,739 | <issue_start>username_0: I have been backing up my Nexus 7 with `adb backup` to back up all files into an encrypted backup. I see that you can restore from a backup with `adb restore`, but that would wipe all my existing data on the device.
How exactly would I extract one App's data from this encrypted backup file?<issue_comment>username_1: ### How to extract ab files
There is an [open source project](https://github.com/nelenkov/android-backup-extractor) under the Apache 2.0 license, written by [<NAME>](http://nelenkov.blogspot.com/) that will allow you to extract the .ab in to a tar file.
Usage:
```
java -jar abe.jar unpack
```
### Background
Just for reference of others, here is some background on the .ab file format.
The Android Backup (\*.ab) file is a compressed [TAR](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tar_%28file_format%29) file. It is compressed using the [DEFLATE](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DEFLATE) algorithm. On top of that, there can be [AES encryption](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_Encryption_Standard) used. This is determined when you create the backup, if you enter a password then the backup is encrypted, otherwise; there is no encryption, it is only compressed.
The HEADER of the file is a little different than a normal DEFLATE archive. It contains information about the backup and looks like the following:
```
ANDROID BACKUP
1
1
none
```
The first line is the ["Magic" line](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic_number_%28programming%29). The next line is the version of the Android Backup file format. The next line is a boolean (true or false, 1 or 0) indicating if the file is compressed. The last line is the type of encryption. This example is not using any encryption. If there was a password, the line would read "AES-256". After that is the encryption cipher. If no password, then the DEFLATE "archive" starts.
It is compressed using the [Java Deflater](http://docs.oracle.com/javase/1.4.2/docs/api/java/util/zip/Deflater.html). Which, from a developers perspective, causes issues if you want to use anything besides Java to extract it. I haven't been able to find anything that can deflate it using the same algorithm, even though all that I have found (for like C#) are supposed to follow the "SPEC".
If you are not sure how to really use that (which is beyond the scope of this answer) [Droid Explorer](https://github.com/camalot/droidexplorer) since v0.8.8.7 ([available here](https://github.com/camalot/droidexplorer/releases)) allows you to do exactly this, and more, right from Explorer. You can read more about the features on [my blog](http://blog.twimager.com/2012/08/droid-explorer-0887-backup-feature.html) (yes, i know, shameless plug. I do that when it fits the question)

Upvotes: 8 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Another option is using the Perl AdbBackupRoutines from [this XDA thread](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=27840175#post27840175). They have a few requirements, though: Perl obviously, plus `libterm-readkey-perl`, `libcrypt-cbc-perl`, and `libcrypt-pbkdf2-perl` (if your backups are unencrypted, you can skip the last dependency by simply commenting out line 103 of `backupdecrypt.pl` where it's included -- worked fine for me).
Usage is quite easy:
```
./backupdecrypt.pl [options]
```
The resulting `.tar` file then can be investigated like any other tarball. Its structure is quite interesting in at least one aspect: it does not reflect the real paths where the files have been taken from (e.g. not `/data/data/com.app.name/databases/whatever.db`, but instead `apps/com.app.name/db/whatever.db`) -- which indicates an app backed-up on one device/ROM *might* be restored to any other device/ROM without trouble, as `adb restore` must figure out the real paths itself.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: One more option is to use `bash`, `cat` and `gunzip` (`gzip`).
The full process could be this (**with an unencrypted backup**):
1. backup one app's data (for example "[Override DNS for KitKat](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.mx17.overridedns)"):
```
$ adb backup -f net.mx17.overridedns.ab -noapk net.mx17.overridedns
Now unlock your device and confirm the backup operation.
```
2. extract the compressed data
```
$ dd if=net.mx17.overridedns.ab bs=1 skip=24 > compressed-data
1285+0 records in
1285+0 records out
1285 bytes (1,3 kB) copied, 0,00745877 s, 172 kB/s
```
3. decompress the compressed data
```
$ printf "\x1f\x8b\x08\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00" \
| cat - compressed-data | gunzip -c > decompressed-data.tar
gzip: stdin: unexpected end of file
```
4. "untar" the tar file
```
$ tar xf decompressed-data.tar
```
Upvotes: 5 <issue_comment>username_4: Or with a one-liner:
```
( printf "\x1f\x8b\x08\x00\x00\x00\x00\x00" ; tail -c +25 backup.ab ) | tar xfvz -
```
Upvotes: 7 <issue_comment>username_5: Based on the information by others, now I know that the backup file is just a prefixed Deflated (GZip) stream, based on this information this simple program can unpack it for you:
```
import java.io.*;
import java.util.zip.*;
/** Run: javac unab.java && java unab backupfile.ab */
public class unab {
private static final int BACKUP_HEADER_LENGTH = 24;
public static void main(String[] args) throws IOException {
InputStream in = new FileInputStream(args[0]);
try {
OutputStream out = new FileOutputStream(args[0] + ".tar");
try {
if (in.skip(BACKUP_HEADER_LENGTH) != BACKUP_HEADER_LENGTH) {
throw new IOException("Unexpected end of file while skipping backup header.");
}
byte[] buffer = new byte[100 * 1024];
int count;
InputStream zip = new InflaterInputStream(in);
while ((count = zip.read(buffer)) > 0) {
out.write(buffer, 0, count);
}
} finally {
out.close();
}
} finally {
in.close();
}
}
}
```
I wrote this because I don't have any of the Unix tools mentioned above, and it was easier than installing Cygwin or other tools.
**Advantages**:
* cross-platform
* simple (no esoteric parameters)
* no need for piping tools
**Disadvantages**:
* need a JDK (which you likely already have because you're messing with Android SDK)
* no support for encrypted backups
* need something to extract the resulting tar file (I use Total Commander)
To make it a command line tool create `unab.bat` with contents: `java -cp "%~dp0." unab %*` and the directory to `PATH`.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_6: As the implicit question is also, "how to restore a single apps data", I would like to mention [this nifty script](https://sourceforge.net/projects/adb-split/), that splits a given full-backup.ab in single-app.ab files.
It requires these jar files: [abe.jar](https://sourceforge.net/projects/adbextractor/files/) and [tar-bin-split.jar](https://sourceforge.net/projects/tar-binary-splitter/files/).
At least for my testcase, it worked using the referenced resources.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_7: Just to add to other answers, I *finally* got it using [nelenkov's app](https://github.com/nelenkov/android-backup-extractor) and [the instructions from here](https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2011811). I was trying to avoid the extra 800mb disk space for Java. Most phones are moving toward encrypted by default, and I think nelenkov's app is the only solution that works well with encrypted.
[Here is a direct link to nelenkov's compiled jar release](https://github.com/nelenkov/android-backup-extractor/releases/tag/20181012025725-d750899). Please check if its the latest, then follow the instructions from the link above. It has more info about Helium and Splitting an ab file up in to individual app files. And also a way to change apps not set to use adb backup without root. Substitute `abe-all.jar` if using this release file.
>
> 1. Convert the original adb backup to tar format:
>
>
> `java -jar abe.jar unpack nexus7.ab nexus7.tar`
>
>
> 2. Extract the contents of the tar archive. This should be done on a
> filesystem where the permissions of the files inside the tar are
> preserved, for example using linux, mac or bsd. Up to two folders may
> appear, apps and shared:
>
>
> `tar -xvf nexus7.tar`
>
>
>
Now you should have new folders to look in. Now you can see which apps are backed up and which arent.
BTW, [Izzy's answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/42224/95893) is good, but his script requires several perl modules to be installed, the 3rd of which I couldnt find easily. His app is full featured, but find `adb2tar` in `Adebar-master/tools/`. Again, it doesnt work with encrypted ab files though.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_8: To add another option here's a Windows PowerShell version of the header manipulation:
```
$file_in = (Get-Location).Path + "\backup.ab"
$file_temp = (Get-Location).Path + "\temp.tgz"
[int32[]]$header = 0x1f, 0x8b, 0x08, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00, 0x00
$bytes = [System.IO.File]::ReadAllBytes($file_in)
$bytesout = $header + $bytes[24..($bytes.Length - 1)]
[System.IO.File]::WriteAllBytes($file_temp, $bytesout)
```
You can try to use the tar executable in current Windows 10 versions 17063 or later to extract the file, however it seems that it currently doesn't handle the misformed file produced in this process as well as the linux version. YMMV:
```
tar -xvzf $file_temp
```
To get the full contents you can manually extract with 7zip or similar.
Or could combine with one of the answers from [Native .tar extraction in Powershell](https://stackoverflow.com/questions/38776137/native-tar-extraction-in-powershell).
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_9: This worked for me in Linux environment:
```
dd if=backup.adb skip=1 bs=24 | zlib-flate -uncompress | cat > somewhere.tar
tar xvf somewhere.tar
```
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_10: You can download the latest binary of the [Android Backup Processor](https://sourceforge.net/projects/android-backup-processor/files/android-backup-processor-20210728-bin.zip/download). Once downloaded, extract the zip file and run:
`java -jar abp.jar unpack`
###### Commands
```
Usage:
info: java -jar abp.jar [-debug] [-useenv=yourenv] info [password]
unpack: java -jar abp.jar [-debug] [-useenv=yourenv] unpack [password]
pack: java -jar abp.jar [-debug] [-useenv=yourenv] pack [password]
pack-kk: java -jar abp.jar [-debug] [-useenv=yourenv] pack-kk [password]
```
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/30 | 260 | 963 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Samsung Galaxy Tab 10.1 and I'm looking for a cable that will allow me to output audio and video to a TV. I found this on a website and I was wondering if anyone has tried it or knows if it will work?
<issue_comment>username_1: A source link could give us more information, but I see no reason this wouldn't work, since it uses the correct port and that port also supports HDMI, which means that video output is supported.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: As I had commented to @username_1's answer: If this cable does not have a DAC (Digital to Analogue Converter), this cable will not work.
I also found a search result about a [scam](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6Vu2gGhzVo) related to this kind of cable, which again confirms this. Since I am unable to view the video (restriction at my work) I am unable to see to comment more on it.
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/08/30 | 362 | 1,327 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Galaxy Nexus with Android 4.0.1
I tried to install Jelly Bean, and followed all instructions I found on a website (forgot which one). I installed cwh and twh first.
Then I installed Jelly Bean. After the installation I rebooted my phone and it got stuck on a cross with the four colors for more than one hour.
So I tried to remove all of this (Jelly Bean, twh).
But now it's stuck on Google logo.
I tried everything.
I don't know what to do to make my phone work. I flashed it but it's not working.
Can you help me? (A stressed student who cannot pay for the repairs)
Thank you , I really need an answer
By the way, I have a mac.<issue_comment>username_1: A source link could give us more information, but I see no reason this wouldn't work, since it uses the correct port and that port also supports HDMI, which means that video output is supported.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: As I had commented to @username_1's answer: If this cable does not have a DAC (Digital to Analogue Converter), this cable will not work.
I also found a search result about a [scam](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w6Vu2gGhzVo) related to this kind of cable, which again confirms this. Since I am unable to view the video (restriction at my work) I am unable to see to comment more on it.
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/08/30 | 1,100 | 4,206 | <issue_start>username_0: I've inherited my wife's Android phone (GT540) when she got a newer, shining one :-)
We think to have **factory** reset it (via the privacy option), and in fact it has finally stopped to refer to her account and all the pics are gone. But I keep getting a warning message, about inconsistent UIDs and the need of wiping the data partition to be sure.
I can click on the only button "I am feeling lucky" to continue, without noticing particular issues.
Obviously, as per Murphy, the message is not popping up right now, so I can't copy it verbatim :-) Will edit the question when it comes out again.
---
EDIT
====
The precise message is:
>
> System UIDs inconsistent
>
>
> UIDs on the system are inconsistent, you need to wipe your data partition or your device will be unstable.
>
>
>
And it is followed by the unexpected crash of the Market application (processocom.android.vending).
So:
1. what is happening? what data partition is actually worrying it? Wasn't the reset "hard enough"?
2. what could happen, what UIDs is it referring to?
3. how can I fix it?
I have a new SD card, which is as far as I can tell empty. I would have liked to format it before using it, but the option is not available: I can only unmount it. Is this (missed) formatting the required wiping to reset the UIDs? Or is it a completely different thing, which I will search/ask in a later question?
Being new to the Android system I don't know if any other info are missing. The kernel is 2.6.29 (but I would be surprised if such basic matters were strongly dependent on the precise kernel version....). Just in case the firmware of the phone is 2.1-update1.
---
UPDATE
======
I have asked my wife and she actually did the factory reset suggested. Just in case I did it again, and we still get the error. What now?<issue_comment>username_1: 1. Usually a hard-reset should be sufficient. But as I don't know how you performed it: It cannot hurt to repeat it. There's a "factory reset" option in your menus (usually in the "privacy" section). What this does is rawly explained by its name: Reset everything to the state of delivery. It purges the `/data` partition -- which is, all user data: Installed apps (except those "in the ROM", which came pre-installed) along with *all* apps data and settings, plus wipe the cache -- then reboot. The next startup will take a bit longer, as Android needs to rebuild the *Dalvik Cache* (which basically contains device-optimized versions of your apps, simply spoken). So after that, everything should be clean -- and you need to configure everything as if you just got a fresh phone.
2. I don't know which UUIDs it's referring to -- without the exact error message this is hard to tell. But as said, the factory reset should fix this.
3. By 1. plus, to be absolutely sure, a clean and empty sd card. To make sure the latter is really clean and empty, you can use a card reader to attach it directly to your computer, and check its contents there. Formatting should not really be necessary -- just make sure there are no files left, especially also no "hidden ones".
Following methods are available to initiate a "factory reset" aka "factory wipe":
* the corresponding item in *setup -> privacy*
* a "call to the magic number `*2767*3855#`"
* Turn ON your phone. Press both VOLUME UP + HOME + SEARCH buttons for 5 sec. (this last item is taken from [hard-reset.com](http://www.hard-reset.com/lg-optimus-gt540-hard-reset.html))
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I found another solution:
Have a look at `/data/system/uiderrors.txt`. There you will find the apps that are responsible for the trouble. You can delete them (manualy if necessary) to fix the issue. Reinstalling the apps brings the error back, though.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: **Titanium Backup** users can also go to the `batch actions` and select `manipulate data > remove orphaned files`.
As *username_2* mentioned, you can also find the apps in `/data/system/uiderrors.txt` using a root-capable file explorer, but basically Titanium will do this for you, if you select the action I wrote above.
Just fixed it this way on my OnePlus One (Bacon).
Upvotes: 3 |
2012/08/30 | 1,275 | 4,850 | <issue_start>username_0: I did it using **Gingerbread** (Samsung Galaxy Ace 2), but with **Ice Cream Sandwich** (LG L5) I don't see appropriate action for that.
Previously I entered Contacts (ok), then selected Settings (ok), executed Google Merge (no such option), and Sync Data (disabled all the time).
I see only one available (not disabled) item that is relevant -- configuring sync option for my account, but I understand it will work non-stop, and I want action on demand, just from time to time, when I explicitly select it, not enabling a background sync process.
*What also worries me, that in GB I could choose where to store contacts (phone, SIM, google), in ICS after initial import from SIM card to phone, I cannot choose anything.*
UPDATE -- (hardcore) WORKAROUND
===============================
I found that for given single contact I can switch its type from phone to google, nice, but it does not solve the problem due to the amount of contacts.
UPDATE -- DON'T DO THIS
=======================
I tried to somehow do it automatically, so I did (but you don't):
1. change the mode of sending vcard to single file
2. share contacts
3. select all
4. type: gmail
5. recipient -- yourself
6. send
7. OK, switch to gmail app
8. open the attachment with contacts
9. choose target as google account
10. all contacts will be merged with existing ones, but now as google ones
And the last step is killing this workaround. Why? Because some contacts will be added (so when you had "A" you will have "A" for phone and "A" for google), the others will be joined (so when you had "A" you will have "A" as before, but now with double type -- phone and google). In short -- the result is mess. Now I have more work to do than manually switching one by one type of the contacts. Geee, progress, right? ;-/<issue_comment>username_1: If you want to "sync on demand only": Just enable sync at the time of demand for, say, 10 minutes while connected to your local Wifi -- and then disable it again. Enough time for the service to get its job done. You can do so in "Accounts & Sync"[1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Ubut.jpg), after chosing your Google account:
 
If next to "Sync contacts" you see the same circular symbol as the screenshot[2](https://i.stack.imgur.com/g4bh5.jpg) shows next to *Sync Google Reader*, you probably do not even need to activate the permanent sync, but simply hit it for a one-time "sync on demand".
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_1: Another approach summarized from macias' experiments plus all the comments accumulated so far, is to follow these steps:
***BE AWARE THAT THIS HAS YET TO BE APPROVED OF, AS IT WAS NOT TESTED!***
I still chose to already add this here, as otherwise it would be hard to follow through all the comments to figure this out. Compared with what macias already did, steps 7-9 have been added/inserted to (hopefully) prevent the mess it caused for him.
1. change the mode of sending vcard to single file
2. share contacts
3. select all
4. type: gmail
5. recipient -- yourself
6. send
7. open the GMail web site with your account
8. optional: export/backup all contacts again from here (unless you use a new/empty separate GMail account, as ***the following was not yet tested***)
9. purge all contact data from the webapp and your devices
10. OK, switch to gmail app
11. open the attachment with contacts
12. choose target as google account
13. all contacts will be added, but now as google ones
Compare with the steps described in the question's update to see the difference and what has gone wrong there. It *should* work this way, but that yet has to be approved of. If somebody can verify this, please say so in a comment -- and I will update this accordingly.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I have a **HTC Sensation running ICS**.
I had been looking to do this, read around a little then in playing with my phone, seem to have done it with a selection in the menu in 'People'.
For me there was simply a '*Move Contacts*' in the Main menu in 'People'.
1. A box pops up, "*Move contacts from*" with choice of 'Google (qty of contacts)', and 'Phone (###)'.
2. I touched 'Phone...', it presents a box, "*Move contacts to*" with one choice 'Google (###)'...
3. Touch 'Google', and it asks, '*Confirm moving*' *"Are you sure...?" - Cancel-OK*.
Process begins, and is not particularly fast - visibly one at a time...
Interestingly however, it didn't *'Move'* my contacts but rather *'Copied'* them - they are all still in the Phone, but now all in Google as well.
Not too bad as I can now either filter the list to not display the Phone ones, or delete them all off the phone as they are now all in Google.
...now just a matter of going through and de-duplicating.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/30 | 526 | 2,004 | <issue_start>username_0: Is thee any way to perform a find-and-replace in contacts? I want replace a letter with another one in all contacts texts. (My device is an Xperia Mini Pro Android 4.0)<issue_comment>username_1: You can export the contacts from gmail, than edit in whatever editor you want and than import back to google. Your phone should then update the changes.
How to export from gmail:
<http://support.google.com/mail/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=24911>
and how to edit the CSV files:
<http://support.google.com/mail/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=12119&topic=1669027&ctx=topic>
There are also related links on the left (for import and other questions)
If importing them back to google makes duplicates, remove all google contacts and then import from CSV.
If your phone does not currently use google contacts sync for it's contacts you can try a similar "hack" by exporting contacts to the SD card and then importing them back.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: As username_1 mentions a "similar hack" to process your accounts without Google:
1. open your contacts app
2. open its settings
3. chose to "export to file"
The resulting export file stored on your sdcard is in `.vcf` ([VCard](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vcard)) format, which can be read by many applications. As it is mainly plain-text (except for embedded contact photos), you could do a basic search-and-replace with any plain-text-editor (do not use a word processor like MS Word), if you are careful (a simple "replace `a` with `ae` might mess up things -- so take care to specify something more unique, or let the replace ask your confirmation for each single place). Best make a copy first -- so in the worst case you still have the original.
Having finished that, you can import the resulting `.vcf` file the same way -- maybe after you emptied your contact list:
1. open your contacts app
2. open its settings
3. chose to "import from file"
4. select your new file, and import it
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/08/30 | 237 | 1,066 | <issue_start>username_0: I use "Contact Remover Plus" to merge duplicated contacts. But I want also merge contacts that their names are different just in a letter.
How can I merge these duplicated contacts? I am looking for a automatic solution.<issue_comment>username_1: [Google Contacts](https://www.google.com/contacts/) is your best option. It will merge contacts with different names if things like their email addresses are the same. Also, if for some reason, it doesn't detect the contacts that should be merged, you can select multiple contacts manually and click on `Merge Contacts` from the more actions menu.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: Use latest version of MyPhoneExplorer (www.fjsoft.at). It is compatible with nearly any android phone. connect your phone with Bluetooth or USB to PC. Sync your contacts with the software, then you are able to easily merge your contacts by selecting some of them and right-click -> Merge Contacts.
Note, this requires installation of a client on your Windows desktop (no Mac or Linux available)
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/08/30 | 445 | 1,734 | <issue_start>username_0: I am at home and I would like to be sure that the data connection is always going through the Wi-Fi rather than the (expensive) data connection.
Is it enough to simply turn on Wi-Fi and connect to the (password protected) network? How can I control that the download is happening through the right connection? Can sleep (or other events) disable/change/toggle this setting?<issue_comment>username_1: In Android, AFAIK, when you connect to an active Wi-Fi network, mobile data (GPRS, 3G, etc) will be disabled (even if are turned on) temporary. So it would be OK to just connect to the Wi-Fi network. But, if you want to be sure about disabling mobile data, you should go to Settings -> Wi-Fi and Networks -> Mobile Data and uncheck the option to disable mobile data.
(in ICS it's in Settings -> Wireless and Networks -> More -> Mobile Networks)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: An adition to username_1's anwser:
>
> In Android, AFAIK, when you connect to an active Wi-Fi network, mobile data (GPRS, 3G, etc) will be disabled (even if are turned on) temporary. So it would be OK to just connect to the Wi-Fi network. But, if you want to be sure about disabling mobile data, you should go to Settings -> Wi-Fi and Networks -> Mobile Data and uncheck the option to disable mobile data. (in ICS it's in Settings -> Wireless and Networks -> More -> Mobile Networks)
>
>
>
Sleep might change this if wifi is set to sleep when screen is off - wifi turns off and data comes back on(unless data is force-disabled as per username_1). To keep wifi on during sleep be sure to set: Settings> Wireless & Networks> Wi-Fi settings> MENU button> Advanced> Wifi Sleep policy to Never.
Upvotes: 3 |
2012/08/30 | 2,279 | 6,609 | <issue_start>username_0: Does JellyBean support USB tether?
Is there a way compile the JB source so USB tether is always enabled?
I would like to have the support through the OS and not depend on an App.<issue_comment>username_1: Yes.
On ICS the setting can be found at
`Settings -> Wireless & Networks -> More.. -> Tethering & portable hotspot -> USB tethering`
I think it should be at the same place on Jelly Bean. Note that you need a device with a cellular data chip for this feature. Devices without (e.g. the Nexus 7) won't show this option.
[USB tethering support was added with the 2.2 (Froyo) release](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Android_version_history#Android_2.2.x_Froyo)
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I successfully got native USB tethering working on the Nexus 7 with Jelly Bean.
Modify the device/asus/grouper/overlay/frameworks/base/core/res/res/values/config.xml to be the following:
```
xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?
true
true
false
true
7
94
208
458
2223
10
35
55
70
70
250
255
255
255
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
10
com.android.wallpaper/.nexus.NexusWallpaper
0
1
#ffffffff
9000
com.google.android.location
com.google.android.location
"wifi,1,1,1,-1,true"
"mobile,0,0,0,-1,true"
"mobile\_mms,2,0,2,60000,true"
"mobile\_supl,3,0,2,60000,true"
"mobile\_dun,4,0,4,60000,true"
"mobile\_hipri,5,0,3,60000,true"
"bluetooth,7,7,0,-1,true"
"1,1"
"0,1"
"7,1"
"rndis0"
0
1
5
7
"wlan0"
"bnep\\d"
30
1
true
true
250
false
false
-12
/dev/bus/usb/001
true
```
Modify out/target/product/grouper/root/init.usb.rc to be the following:
```
# Copyright (C) 2012 The Android Open Source Project
#
# USB configuration common for all android devices
#
on post-fs-data
chown system system /sys/class/android_usb/android0/f_mass_storage/lun/file
chmod 0660 /sys/class/android_usb/android0/f_mass_storage/lun/file
chown system system /sys/class/android_usb/android0/f_rndis/ethaddr
chmod 0660 /sys/class/android_usb/android0/f_rndis/ethaddr
# Used to disable USB when switching states
on property:sys.usb.config=none
stop adbd
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/bDeviceClass 0
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# adb only USB configuration
# This should only be used during device bringup
# and as a fallback if the USB manager fails to set a standard configuration
on property:sys.usb.config=adb
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct D002
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
start adbd
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# USB accessory configuration
on property:sys.usb.config=accessory
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 2d00
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# USB accessory configuration, with adb
on property:sys.usb.config=accessory,adb
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 2d01
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
start adbd
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# audio accessory configuration
on property:sys.usb.config=audio_source
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 2d02
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# audio accessory configuration, with adb
on property:sys.usb.config=audio_source,adb
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 2d03
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
start adbd
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# USB and audio accessory configuration
on property:sys.usb.config=accessory,audio_source
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 2d04
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# USB and audio accessory configuration, with adb
on property:sys.usb.config=accessory,audio_source,adb
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 2d05
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
start adbd
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# Used to set USB configuration at boot and to switch the configuration
# when changing the default configuration
on property:persist.sys.usb.config=*
setprop sys.usb.config ${persist.sys.usb.config}
on property:sys.usb.config=rndis
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 4e23
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/bDeviceClass 224
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
on property:sys.usb.config=rndis,adb
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 4e24
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/bDeviceClass 224
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
start adbd
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
```
And use a modified tegra kernel that has RNDIS enabled.
Please reference [this XDA post](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1879660)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2012/08/30 | 2,291 | 6,698 | <issue_start>username_0: I just got my new Nexus 7 and found out that most big Android games download their data over WiFi. This is problematic for me as I don't have a good WiFi connection and most downloads freeze halfway. Can I download the extra data on my wired connection on my computer?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes.
On ICS the setting can be found at
`Settings -> Wireless & Networks -> More.. -> Tethering & portable hotspot -> USB tethering`
I think it should be at the same place on Jelly Bean. Note that you need a device with a cellular data chip for this feature. Devices without (e.g. the Nexus 7) won't show this option.
[USB tethering support was added with the 2.2 (Froyo) release](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Android_version_history#Android_2.2.x_Froyo)
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I successfully got native USB tethering working on the Nexus 7 with Jelly Bean.
Modify the device/asus/grouper/overlay/frameworks/base/core/res/res/values/config.xml to be the following:
```
xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?
true
true
false
true
7
94
208
458
2223
10
35
55
70
70
250
255
255
255
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
0
10
com.android.wallpaper/.nexus.NexusWallpaper
0
1
#ffffffff
9000
com.google.android.location
com.google.android.location
"wifi,1,1,1,-1,true"
"mobile,0,0,0,-1,true"
"mobile\_mms,2,0,2,60000,true"
"mobile\_supl,3,0,2,60000,true"
"mobile\_dun,4,0,4,60000,true"
"mobile\_hipri,5,0,3,60000,true"
"bluetooth,7,7,0,-1,true"
"1,1"
"0,1"
"7,1"
"rndis0"
0
1
5
7
"wlan0"
"bnep\\d"
30
1
true
true
250
false
false
-12
/dev/bus/usb/001
true
```
Modify out/target/product/grouper/root/init.usb.rc to be the following:
```
# Copyright (C) 2012 The Android Open Source Project
#
# USB configuration common for all android devices
#
on post-fs-data
chown system system /sys/class/android_usb/android0/f_mass_storage/lun/file
chmod 0660 /sys/class/android_usb/android0/f_mass_storage/lun/file
chown system system /sys/class/android_usb/android0/f_rndis/ethaddr
chmod 0660 /sys/class/android_usb/android0/f_rndis/ethaddr
# Used to disable USB when switching states
on property:sys.usb.config=none
stop adbd
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/bDeviceClass 0
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# adb only USB configuration
# This should only be used during device bringup
# and as a fallback if the USB manager fails to set a standard configuration
on property:sys.usb.config=adb
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct D002
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
start adbd
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# USB accessory configuration
on property:sys.usb.config=accessory
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 2d00
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# USB accessory configuration, with adb
on property:sys.usb.config=accessory,adb
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 2d01
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
start adbd
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# audio accessory configuration
on property:sys.usb.config=audio_source
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 2d02
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# audio accessory configuration, with adb
on property:sys.usb.config=audio_source,adb
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 2d03
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
start adbd
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# USB and audio accessory configuration
on property:sys.usb.config=accessory,audio_source
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 2d04
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# USB and audio accessory configuration, with adb
on property:sys.usb.config=accessory,audio_source,adb
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 2d05
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
start adbd
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
# Used to set USB configuration at boot and to switch the configuration
# when changing the default configuration
on property:persist.sys.usb.config=*
setprop sys.usb.config ${persist.sys.usb.config}
on property:sys.usb.config=rndis
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 4e23
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/bDeviceClass 224
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
on property:sys.usb.config=rndis,adb
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 0
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idVendor 18d1
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/idProduct 4e24
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/functions ${sys.usb.config}
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/bDeviceClass 224
write /sys/class/android_usb/android0/enable 1
start adbd
setprop sys.usb.state ${sys.usb.config}
```
And use a modified tegra kernel that has RNDIS enabled.
Please reference [this XDA post](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1879660)
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2012/08/31 | 925 | 3,472 | <issue_start>username_0: I have **Samsung Galaxy S II** with **Android 4**.
If I configure my phone to **GSM/WCDMA (automatic)** mode, I have problems when I receive or make a call. Usually I lost the call or the other person cannot hear me.
In my city 3G network is not very good.
I solve this problem changing the mode to **GSM only** (manually) and then make the call.
Is there a way to configure my phone to change from WCDMA to GSM automatically when I make or receive a call?
I've installed **2G/3G OFF** application, but it is still manual.<issue_comment>username_1: If you constantly get a poor 3G signal, you may want to switch the signal preference to favor 2G instead of 3G. Here's a way to do it on ICS:
1. In dialer, press `*#*#4636#*#*`
2. Go to 'Phone Information'
3. Swipe to this 'Set preferred network type'
4. Assuming it is 'WCDMA preferred', change it to 'GSM Auto (PRL)'
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ydhte.png)
Screenshot (click to enlarge)
This setting will change its signal quality threshold, allowing it to switch from 3G to 2G 'earlier'. Use at your own risk though...
To address your question of automatically switching signal *when you make a call*, you might be able to hammer something out on [Tasker](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.dinglisch.android.taskerm&hl=en) if you are so inclined (I may give it a try later to satisfy my own curiosity xD).
One problem is forsee though, is that I believe it takes a bit of time to switch signals, so it might affect your call (or its quality).
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I would say that the practical anwser is no. Although you could theoreticaly make an appliction/script that would swith to 2g before a cal, the script would have to wait a few seconds before making a call while the phone switches signals. This will make it no faster than manualy changing it before calling.
I suggest you put the 2g/3g widget near your dialer and press it before you enter the dialer, by the time you choose a contact the phone should be ready to call.
Another option has to do with rooting and voiding your warranty: flashing different modems(radio images) from xda. Some modems hold to signals much more aggresively (but use more battery).
The last and most obvious option (the one that I would choose in your place) is to just stay in 2g mode when in the city. Since the signal is so bad you drop calls I would guess that data speeds are slow and dropping too. You will also gain in battery life beacuse the phone won't be constantly searching and droping signals.
In any case I would consider changing the carrier if there is a better option where you live.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I think I've got the solution to your problem, rather our problem. I've been facing this issue for a couple of weeks now, during which I was not able to make any calls when my network mode is set as WCDMA or GSM/WCDMA auto.
I called up my network operator, and they were able to provide me a solution. In the call settings menu, inside Additional Settings, there is a setting for displaying the Caller ID in outgoing calls. I had changed this setting to 'Hide number', and that was the reason I wasn't able to make any calls in the WCDMA mode. After I changed it to 'Network default' or 'Show number', I was able to make calls even in the WCDMA mode. :)
Hope this helps you too.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/31 | 540 | 2,024 | <issue_start>username_0: Somehow Wi-Fi stopped connecting on my phone. It is not a hardware issue, as it does work when I perform a reset.
What files do I need to delete to get Wi-Fi back working? I don’t want to reset my phone.
If relevant, model is Sony Arc S, using CM9.<issue_comment>username_1: I removed `/data/etc/wifi`, `/data/misc/dhcp` and `/data/misc/wifi` and it worked.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: This has happened to me on several occasions, mostly when backing up/restoring Wifi settings using an app such as TitaniumBackup. Here's what I recommend, starting with the safest solutions:
1. First try going into the wifi settings and removing the problematic network. While you're there you might as well remove any other unused networks:
<https://support.google.com/android-one/answer/2819519> > *Change, add, or remove saved networks* > *Remove*
2. If that doesn't work, the only remaining option that doesn't require root access is to delete all of your saved networks.
3. If you don't want to delete all of your saved networks and you have root access, the wifi network settings are kept in a text file (`/data/misc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf`), which can become corrupted. I've been able to fix problems by manually editing the file:
1. Turn off wifi (if you leave it on, the corrupted wifi settings may get rewritten)
2. Back up `/data/misc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf`
3. Edit `/data/misc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf` and remove any problematic networks.
4. If you've made it this far and you're still having problems, turn off your wifi and delete `/data/misc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf`. Of course this will delete all of your saved networks. The file will be recreated the next time you turn on your wifi.
5. As a last resort, you can delete `/data/misc/wifi`, but I don't recommend it. If you do decide to do this, make sure you back it up first. The folder *should* be recreated on reboot with default settings, then you'll need to set your networks up again.
Upvotes: 4 |
2012/08/31 | 1,086 | 4,067 | <issue_start>username_0: Since I've upgraded to 4.0.3 my rooted Samsung Galaxy S2, Wi-Fi and/or 3G connections auto enable/disable.
I've found a similar question asked here: [Wi-fi is auto-enabling](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/2803/wi-fi-is-auto-enabling)
I'd be grateful if someone could find which of my apps is handling the connection:
<http://www.appbrain.com/user/jasmines77/phone><issue_comment>username_1: You've got quite a few apps in that list which can turn your connections on and off, and make other changes to your network settings.
If you have a look at the permissions the app has (either in the apps list on your phone, or by looking it up in the Play Store), you can see these permissions listed, for example if you go to the [Battery Defender-Battery Saver apps Play Store Page](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=primiprog.waw), you can click the **Permissions** tab at the top of the description and amongst its permissions list you can see these:
>
> **change/intercept network settings and traffic**
> Allows the app to change
> network settings and to intercept and inspect all network traffic, for
> example to change the proxy and port of any APN. Malicious apps may
> monitor, redirect, or modify network packets without your knowledge.
>
> **change Wi-Fi state**
> Allows the app to connect to and disconnect from
> Wi-Fi access points, and to make changes to configured Wi-Fi networks.
>
> **change network connectivity**
> Allows the app to change the state of
> network connectivity.
> **Bluetooth administration**
> Allows the app to
> configure the local Bluetooth tablet, and to discover and pair with
> remote devices. Allows the app to configure the local Bluetooth phone,
> and to discover and pair with remote devices.
>
>
>
The easiest way to find the culprit would be to uninstall one of these apps, use your phone for a day or two and see if the problem happens. If your phone works ok without the app installed, then you've found the problem app. Whereas if your phone still has the problem, you can re-install the app you've removed and uninstall another one for a day or two.
It could also be that two or more apps are interacting or interfering with each other and causing the problem (one app may be trying to switch your wifi off to save power while another switches it on to do something else). If this is happening then the best way to work out which app is causing the problem would be to uninstall all of the apps that could possibly be causing the problem, then re-install them one at a time over a period of a few days, and watch to see when the problem starts happening again.
The easiest place for you to see all of the apps on your phone and click throught to see their permission is probably by going to your [My Apps page in the Play Store](https://play.google.com/apps) where it shows all of your installed apps and you can quickly click through to the app's description and permissions pages.
Out of your apps list, the apps that look most likely to be causing the problem are these, but I haven't been through the permissions your apps are using one by one so it could be another that is causing the problems:
* [Battery Defender-Battery Saver](http://www.appbrain.com/app/battery-defender-battery-saver/mobi.infolife.batterysaver)
* [Fastweb.Alice.WiFi.Recovery](http://www.appbrain.com/app/fastweb-alice-wifi-recovery/primiprog.waw)
* [Fastweb Wi-Fi Decripter](http://www.appbrain.com/app/fastweb-wi-fi-decripter/org.noblogs.packz.android)
* [Phono](http://www.appbrain.com/app/phono/com.infonetservice.phono)
* [APN-Switch](http://www.appbrain.com/app/apn-switch/ch.blinkenlights.android.apnswitch)
* [Wpa Tester](http://www.appbrain.com/app/wpa-tester/tester.wpa)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Sprint added a new `Connections Optimizer` in the latest release. To disable this feature, go to: `Settings > More > Mobile Networks > Connections optimizer > uncheck the box`; mine says `Sprint Connections Optimizer`.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/31 | 505 | 1,853 | <issue_start>username_0: >
> **Possible Duplicate:**
>
> [An app to locate my Android device around the house?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/2603/an-app-to-locate-my-android-device-around-the-house)
>
>
>
I'm looking for a "find my phone" app that can be activated from another app instead of a webpage.
The scenario is simple, my wife misplaces her android phone frequently. I'd like to be able to quickly launch an app from my android phone or tablet and activate a find me siren on her device. So far all of the apps I've found require you to long into a bloated webpage first.
Edit: It should work in reverse too, so I can find my tablet (which does not have a phone number of course) from her phone.<issue_comment>username_1: If that's your scenario ... just call her on her android phone? Maybe she can put you a siren as your personal ringtone.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: [Phoning Pigeon](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lionebra.phoningpigeon)
You don't need to install it, but she does. Set your phone number to be one of the activating phone numbers. When you call her phone two consecutive times it takes the phone out of silent mode, making it then easy to call it a third time so it can be found.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: [Prey](http://preyproject.com) is another possibility. It goes beyond the world of Android, even.
You can use the Prey app on your device to monitor your other devices. Technically, though, this will fail one of your criteria as it really just launches the Prey website. (It's not, however, "bloated".)
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: "Find My Phone Siren" does what I was looking for (app to app siren). It also uses google to sign in so you don't need yet another account. Only drawback is that it costs $1.97.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2012/08/31 | 959 | 3,883 | <issue_start>username_0: I am trying to send an email marketing campaign and my email file size is 32K (HTML markup only).
When I open it in the native email client on my Android device (Sprint HTC running Gingerbread 2.3.5) it gets truncated with a message that says "Download Remaining 12K". The button is way below the fold so it's easily missed and 1/2 of my email doesn't even show up in the reader.
I found a setting in my (POP) email account under:
```
menu → more → settings → Send & Receive → Mail size limit
```
But the default was set to 25K. That seems EXTREMELY low. I assume this is to keep the total downloads to a minimum since most people don't clean out their inboxes very often.
However, is this the new standard? That emails need to be kept at a minimum of 25K? I am wondering how many other devices running the Android OS are configured this way by default and if I should re-think all of my email marketing campaigns moving forward.
I checked my Kindle Fire and I don't see an option to change the incoming file size and my email does not get truncated on that device.
**I am hoping to learn:**
1. Is this an Android version specific? (ie Gingerbread)
2. Is this a configuration one makes when setting up a device with the Android OS regardless of the version? Meaning every device is different?
3. How many devices are set with a max file size this low, what's the standard setting out of the box?<issue_comment>username_1: This is done to conserve battery life. Downloaded data means active radios, which means electricity drawn, which means battery drained.
Your one email, might be fine. But people often get hundreds of messages per day. If every message I got were that size and my phone downloaded the full content of each one the battery would be dead very quickly.
If it's an email that is important that I *need* to read it's probably going to be only a few lines. Messages that are large are usually things I don't need while I'm at the grocery store or interrupting me while I get a haircut. It can wait until I get back to my desk.
Conversely, without a reasonably small limit you could DoS someone by sending them several large messages, forcing their phone to download all of that data. You can both chew up their data limit *and* drain their battery.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: >
> Is this an Android version specific? (ie Gingerbread)
>
>
>
No, this has nothing to do with the Android version, I have several close to me and none have such option. It's probably a carrier-specific setting on the stock app.
[username_1 answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/28590/16265) easily justifies the reason as to why carriers would prefer such low limitations and how this benefits users.
>
> Is this a configuration one makes when setting up a device with the Android OS regardless of the version? Meaning every device is different?
>
>
>
It may vary depending on the device and carrier, but what usual happens with settings like this is that they are silently applied, but as you've found out, the user can update the value to a more desired one.
>
> How many devices are set with a max file size this low, what's the standard setting out of the box?
>
>
>
There's no standard about the size for an email that goes this low. What actually exists is a general conception regarding the emails maximum size that accounts for the sum of the message's body and the encoded attachment.
Since a message will often pass through several mail transfer agents to reach the recipient, and since most of them have to cache messages for a certain period of time, this brings storage issues that need to be addressed. Since the early days, 10Mb was considered to be more than acceptable for an email.
You can read all about this at [Wikipedia](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Email_attachment#Size_limits).
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/08/31 | 914 | 3,785 | <issue_start>username_0: Having spent some time researching what actually goes behind rooting an Android phone, the main reason that leads to the ability root is an inherent vulnerability on the Linux kernel that leads to the exploit and getting the 'su' binary to be installed.
My question is: How come the OS is not hardened yet? Who is responsible? This is a Linux OS we're talking about, which is considered "secure". Yet, people always find a way to get in and root devices.<issue_comment>username_1: it's not really the "linux OS", it is the linux kernel. The vulnerability is not necessarily in the OS, or the kernel. There are different exploits that are used. I remember some device being able to load any zip file in the recovery if it was "pre-pended" by a signed zip file. So they used a signed zip and added an unsigned zip to the end of the file. I think this exploit was for the Original Droid.
No software is 100% bug free. if it was, then even a mature product like Windows would not have to do security patch releases every month.
No matter how smart the developer is, or thinks he is, more likely than not, there is probably someone smarter (or at least they may know more about exploiting code).
When exploits are discovered, Google (or the manufacturer) has (usually) patched them. But since a lot of the devices don't receive updates very often, the exploit remains available.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Rooting is always possible because rooting, a.k.a. user switching, a.k.a. [setuid](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Setuid), is one of the most fundamental feature of Unix and Linux.
For many devices, rooting does not actually involve any security exploits; rooting methods that requires flashing a file through the bootloader and/or ROM updater utility (e.g. Samsung's Odin, HTC's RUU, etc) are not a security breach, as they are legitimate features specifically designed for flashing ROMs. A large number of devices are rooted in this way.
On those devices, rooting are possible because the manufacturers actually provides the facility for it. They certainly do not make rooting an easy one-click process (for good reasons; most people who wanted to root do not actually need root), but they do provide an officially sanctioned method to root under the condition that your warranty voids (official rooting method often leaves a permanent mark to let authorized technicians know if a phone had been rooted).
There are not that many quite a few rooting methods that actually uses a security exploits (e.g. [rageagainstthecage](https://thesnkchrmr.wordpress.com/2011/03/24/rageagainstthecage/), [zergRush](https://github.com/revolutionary/zergRush/blob/master/zergRush.c), [gingerbreak](http://c-skills.blogspot.com.au/2011/04/yummy-yummy-gingerbreak.html), etc), and these exploits are often repackaged into a form that are much easier to use for the masses (e.g. SuperOneClick). Rooting through exploits are often hit and miss since they get patched fairly quickly for devices that are still within update period; but sometimes they provide advantages such as avoiding triggering the warranty marking.
The issue becomes a little complicated when the tech news and blogs reported when a developer wrote tutorials or tools to ease up legitimate rooting process. They often do not understand the nature of the rooting method, and certainly I have never seen them distinguish between legitimate rooting methods and rooting through security exploits, worse they also often report the repackaging of existing exploit and the porting of an existing exploit to a new device as if they're a totally different exploits. Thus the confusion that makes it appear that Android seems to have more exploits than it really does.
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/08/31 | 196 | 701 | <issue_start>username_0: I've an Xperia Mini/Pro. I would like to add another home screen. At the moment there are 5 different home screen. Is it possible to add more to the Xperia launcher ?
I don't want to change launcher, i find Xperia stock launcher very ..comfortable with the function 'corners' .
Thanks<issue_comment>username_1: this might help:
<http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1138791>
you would need to have your phone rooted for this hack. It is for Xperia Play, but would work on other Xperias, as I've done this before on my Xperia Arc S successfully.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Just swap your launcher.
You can use go launcher
Upvotes: -1 |
2012/08/31 | 677 | 2,315 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a bluetooth keyboard connected and working with my Android phone, but with one annoyance: the escape key does not appear to do anything. This is particularly problematic for a *vi* user like me.
Is there a way to fix it so the escape key works, at least in the terminal application? Is [/system/usr/keylayout/qwerty.kl](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/23953/2380) a potential approach or is this something [harder](https://code.google.com/p/connectbot/issues/detail?id=369)?
Hardware specifics:
* SMK-LINK Bluetooth compact keyboard, Model VP6630
* Android Dev Phone 1 with Cyanogenmod 6.1<issue_comment>username_1: Try this, it worked for me: `Ctrl` + `[`
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: The solution that has worked for me is:
Upgrade to a Nexus S running Cyanogenmod 10.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I use a zagg BT kbd. I have used others, but not with this app.
I use the External Keyboard Pro app from the Play Store to reassign keys. My one kvetch, and it is a serious one, is that I cannot reassign the 'Home' key that takes me back to the 'home screen' with it. And I hate that. I don't want any sort of magical keys on my kbd. That's why I'm using a kbd. And I don't think there are that many people using an external kbd with an android device who are not professional typists to some degree. Users who hunt & peck are going to be fine with the OSK. And the rest of us are going to hate life everytime we hit the 'Home' key and exit our apps. That being said, I have the 'Return' key and the F2/Mic-ON key mapped to ESC on my ASUS 10.1 tab.
It's sufficient to keep me from plucking out my eyes and warning kings of dire times ahead, or wandering around in the day time shining a lantern in poeple's faces. This is a good thing, but there must be a way to make things 'better'. The app isn't awesome, but it works and it'll get you close to what you want. I am 85% happy. I found it via:
<http://www.howtogeek.com/175267/the-htg-guide-to-using-a-bluetooth-keyboard-with-your-android-device/>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Switch on keybaord and before typing press Fn + Q at same time to set keyboard in iOS mode. ( Fn + E = Windows mode ) ( Fn + W = Android mode ) ( Above works on my Arteck HB030B keyboard )
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/08/31 | 447 | 1,912 | <issue_start>username_0: I have bought my 8 year old a Nexus 7 (lucky boy!). As some of you may know Flash is not available for Jelly Bean so I had to do a bit of a hack using Dolphin browser so he can go to certain Flash powered websites (moshimonsters.com). I want the default browser to still be Chrome so I can use Funamo Parental Control to monitor his web use. Is it possible to create a shortcut/widget/bookmark to the site in question but specifying Dolphin as the browser?
Thanks in advance.<issue_comment>username_1: It is doable, but you cannot do this without 3rd party application, because by default shortcuts or bookmarks (as available in the system features) do not hold such information. I am not able to name any app that would do this, as I never personally needed this, but I am certain they do exist as it is not technically complicated, as most likely you are not the only one with such needs. All it needs to be done is to create a shortcut, which would launch this 3rd party app being a "proxy" and said app would then call explicitly specified application handing your URL to it.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: I am not sure about a shortcut but a simple widget should be good enough for your needs. While I have not tried this myself here is how I would start:
1. Write a simple widget to put on the home screen. Be prepared to send in a new intent as soon as the widget is started up
2. Open the Dolphin browser while having your device connected to ADB. Notice the intent that is being sent by the ActivityManager when starting the browser.
3. In your app create a new Intent() and fill it up with the specific component/class name of Dolphin browser and pass in the URL of the site you want to open as data.
I think the tricky part will be detecting the exact class and component name used by Dolphin browser. The rest of it should be straight forward (I think).
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/09/01 | 529 | 1,934 | <issue_start>username_0: I just got a Nexus One (Gingerbread), and when I put in my 32GB Micro SDHC it will crash when it tries to read it (copying apps, opening storage settings, etc) and after you have locked the screen it will not come back on (the menu buttons light up, but not the screen)
I re-formatted it on my computer, but when I used it in my phone it would fail again.
The card however works on my old Huawei Ideos u8150 (Froyo) with no problems.
The Nexus one reads the 8GB card that came with it fine.
I would like to know why the Nexus would do this, given that they are spec'd to read a 32GB card. And how to fix it, obviously.
I have now tried formatting it with another phone (along with formatting it with GParted) and it works until you plug it into the computer and copy files onto it. It will then either not mount it or act the same as above.<issue_comment>username_1: It may just be a software bug.
Have you tried formatting it with the phone itself yet?
Else: The Nexus One is now unsupported by Google, so if this is the case you can only fix it by installing some aftermarket firmware like CyanogenMod and see if this solves your problem.
CyanogenMod has a [device page for the N1](http://www.cyanogenmod.com/devices/nexus-one) and a [full update guide](http://wiki.cyanogenmod.com/wiki/Nexus_One%3a_Full_Update_Guide). If you want to try even more, there are also unsupported beta firmwares for Ice-Cream-Sandwich and Jelly-Bean available on [XDA's Nexus One development forum](http://forum.xda-developers.com/forumdisplay.php?f=559) from other developers.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: 32 Gb cards work just perfectly on my Nexus One. I have original ROM which was updated once OTA. The phone reports OS version as 2.3.6. I use SD card preformatted as FAT 32. You can try to format your card using phone itself, go in storage settings and erase the card. It should work after.
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/09/01 | 692 | 2,899 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm using a custom ROM of CyanogenMod 7 (Android 2.3.5) on ZTE Racer. The ROM came with some default system apps like Gmail, Google Translate, Youtube and Adobe Reader. The old version of these apps are kept in internal storage even if you update them, so to save space I uninstalled the updates and them removed them using [Root Manager](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.koushikdutta.rommanager).
The problem is that when I installed the updated versions from Market, they force close during opening (I found out later that Google Translate force close only when trying to translate something).
I had backed up everything before uninstall, and I noticed that if I install the backed up version manually and then update it through Google Play, they work fine. Checking the storage space left, I can say that the old versions were this way deleted, so I suppose the result should be the same.
Since I did not notice that Google Translate wasn't working, I deleted the backed up apk file, so I can't put it to work again.
My question is: anyone knows why does this happen? And if so, how could I make the updated version of Google Translate to work now that I do not have the old default apk anymore?
**Edit:** I tried installed again to trace the exact error message and it is now working, though I have done anything explicitly.<issue_comment>username_1: Instead of doing this manually, use [Titanium Backup Pro](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.keramidas.TitaniumBackup).
It allows you to integrate updates to ROM for all system apps.
So after installing this, long press your desired app and choose the option integrate update.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I cannot say for all apps you listed -- but for some, the following applies:
Some system apps (as e.g. the market/playstore app) have to be present in `/system` in order to work. For the Playstore app, the reason is: The permission to install other "packages" is only granted if one of the following two conditions is met:
* it is signed with the same certificate as the system (ROM) itself -- which does NOT apply in your case, due to the custom ROM used
* it is installed as "system app" (i.e. below `/system`) -- which did no longer apply in your case, since you uninstalled the app from there
Expecting the pre-conditions given, developers might have forgotten to include a check and implement appropriate exception handling -- which then may lead to the described force-close.
Similar constellations *might* apply to other apps/packages as well -- though I'm not sure what should make the Google Translate app so special (maybe it has some special hooks I missed).
You could try to find out by following Roxan's advice, to integrate the app as "system app" again using e.g. *Titanium backup*, and see if it still force-closes.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2012/09/01 | 289 | 1,280 | <issue_start>username_0: Every day I get a notification on my Inc2 that there are app updates available in the market. Is there a way to change the frequency of these update checks? I see no reason to be prompted to update my apps on a daily basis and this is a little annoying. I would like to be able to only have it check for updates weekly.<issue_comment>username_1: You can turn off automatic update checking by pressing menu and than settings in the play store. You can then manually go to my apps to update them. This will not greatly increase the work you have to do, because even if there is a notification once a week it would still require you to confirm the updates. There is no option however to change the frequency of the automatic updates.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If you go into Settings and check "Auto-update apps" it will download and install the updates without prompting you. If you're worried about data usage, also check "Update over Wi-FI only". I've had my phone set this way for a while now, as I too got tired of constantly having updates to accept.
As <NAME> pointed out, if an apps update changes its permissions, you will still be prompted to update it manually, although this doesn't occur very often.
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/02 | 622 | 2,231 | <issue_start>username_0: >
> **Possible Duplicate:**
>
> [Is it possible to block ads in Android applications?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/14249/is-it-possible-to-block-ads-in-android-applications)
>
>
>
I've read ways but they don't block/disable ads.<issue_comment>username_1: You must be rooted for this. If you are rooted, use either of ways:
* Point ad servers to localhost using [Host file](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hosts_%28file%29) manually. Sniffing ad servers & adding them to Host file is tedious task.
* Use Ad Blocker apps. There are many Ad Blocker apps available in Play Store viz. [AdFree Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bigtincan.android.adfree), [AdAway](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.adaway) etc. Its easiest, fastest and most effective way.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Free applications usually come with ads, since they are used by the developer to [monetize its work](http://developer.android.com/training/monetization/ads-and-ux.html):
>
> Advertising is one of the means to monetize (make money with) mobile applications.
>
>
>
Two methods to disable ads:
===========================
1. Unrooted device:
Buy the donate version
It's getting common among developers to have two versions of their application, one free filled with ads, and one "donate" version where you pay a extra-small-amount and get rid of the ads while helping the developer.
Additionally, there are other forms of donate to help the developer and get rid of the ads, since they vary alot, best is to read the application summary.
2. Rooted phones:
There are several applications available from Google Play Store with the sole purpose of blocking ads from the device and applications.
Essentially, they nullifying requests to known host names in the system hosts file.
[AdFree Android](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bigtincan.android.adfree) by BigTinCan.com is amazing for this end.

Personally I don't like the idea of blocking ads since we are essentially preventing developers from earning their day-to-day bread.
Upvotes: 2 [selected_answer] |
2012/09/02 | 594 | 2,351 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Samsung Galaxy player that has been giving me the message "Charging paused. Battery temperature too high or too low". I left it unplugged and powered down all night, and it still gave me the message as soon as I turned it on. The battery should be at room temperature. I've turned it off and on several times. I've tried removing the battery and putting it back. I have no idea what's wrong. It's been working fine for the past 9 months. Can anyone help?<issue_comment>username_1: AFAIK the temperature sensor that measures the battery is built-in (in the battery). In your case either the battery is defective, because it get's to hot immediately when charging *or* the sensor is defective. Either way, I think you have to replace the battery with a new one.
Before you replace the battery you should rule out a software error by doing a factory reset to see if the problem persists.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: I know this is an old post but, I just had this problem and found a good solution so thought I'd post the answer here in case someone else is looking for the same help.
Power down the phone.
Take the battery out for 20+ seconds.
Plug in the charger.
Put the battery back in.
Turn the phone back on.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I left my phone in the car on a cold night, and it said it couldn't charge because the temperature was too high or too low. All I did was let it warm up in my house for 15 minutes. Then, I plugged it in, and everything was fine.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: **For those who have tried multiple batteries,**
I have multiple Samsung phones, **I use the wall charger to avoid charging my phone. It was $15** on ebay, and it may be a viable workaround and/or solution outside of replacing the motherboard.
These wall chargers will charge your battery no matter what, you can confirm this by looking at the pins on the image below. **If the third pin not present**, the charger does not check battery stats before charging.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nLnsZ.jpg)
(I consider this a solution, because it takes advantage of the removable battery feature, and the chargers come in packs of three batteries so you'll never be stuck to an outlet again.)
Hope this helps.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/09/02 | 917 | 3,480 | <issue_start>username_0: To get a privileged shell you need to modify the following lines to the given values in the default.prop file
**ro.secure=0**
**ro.debuggable=1**
**persist.service.adb.enable=1**
I have the extracted the recovery image of my phone model :
So is it possible to modify the following values in the default.prop file, repack the image and flash it using fastboot(bootloader is unlocked) to get a privileged shell, and then copy the su binary after remounting system as read/write?
Do I need to change any other values in any of the files? And will it work, theoretically at least?<issue_comment>username_1: The above approach did not seem to work.
Either because the stock recovery put up wasn't meant for the device or the method isn't this easy and may involve making other changes. The phone wouldn't go into recovery mode, which is the only mode in which you would get a privileged shell to perform the necessary operations to obtain permanent root.
Another method would be to modify the build.prop in the boot image itself, repack and then flash it and **adb** to get a privileged shell in normal operating mode.
Better to follow someone else's procedure when you're not too sure about your own.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: This approach *will* work (provided there are no proprietary funny locks in place anywhere), but the recovery partition is no party to it from the very beginning. The default.prop is overwritten on bootup, copied from the boot partition, which is not a directly accessible file system. You need an image of the boot partition, which you will then unpack, make the change, and repack.
Assuming you know how to go about doing all that (since you say you tried it with the recovery), I must warn ahead that often times it is necessary to include the base address when making the image with mkbootimg. There is no way to know when it is required, so it is safe to always include a base address. You can follow a tutorial here:
[www.freeyourandroid.com/guide/extract-edit-repack-boot-img-windows](http://www.freeyourandroid.com/guide/extract-edit-repack-boot-img-windows)
The script includes the od command with which you can get the base address, in case you want to make your own script. For more on the manual steps (for reproducing on GNU/Linux):
[android-dls.com/wiki/index.php?title=HOWTO:\_Unpack%2C\_Edit%2C\_and\_Re-Pack\_Boot\_Images](http://android-dls.com/wiki/index.php?title=HOWTO%3a_Unpack,_Edit,_and_Re-Pack_Boot_Images)
I do not recommend use of the unpack/repack scripts, as they have hardcoded lines not portable across cases. Use split\_bootimg.pl, then gunzip and cpio extract it, after which you will again use cpio and gzip it, followed by the mkbootimg command. The only exception is for MTK65xx devices, where you will need the relevant unpack/repack tools (because they have very different offsets; you will also skip the mkbootimg as the repack script does it for you):
[github.com/bgcngm/mtk-tools](http://github.com/bgcngm/mtk-tools)
And here is an on-going example of a Chinese rebranded phone going through the same thing to finally get root:
[forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1818146&page=5](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1818146&page=5)
I'm sorry I have to strip off proper links, but I am apparently considered potential spam. Also, I've not been rather thorough because I'm not really sure you'd want more verbosity.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer] |
2012/09/02 | 555 | 2,007 | <issue_start>username_0: I got a very long list of free hotspots and friends/family networks on my phone.
Recently I bought a tablet and I'm trying to find a way to copy the wireless manager list to this new device. Any idea how to do that? Both devices are rooted and running ICS.<issue_comment>username_1: As you are rooted: Wireless network data are stored in `data/misc/wifi/wpa_supplicant.conf` -- so you could basically copy all its `network` entries from one device and insert them on the other. The entries look like
```
network={
ssid="Telekom"
key_mgmt=NONE
priority=42
}
```
An easier way would be using the App [Wlan Backup & Recovery (root)](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.snertlab.wlanconfigsaver): Backup all entries on one device, and restore them on the other. As you can see in below screenshot, the tool can even send the backup by mail -- so transfer to the other device should be easy:
 
But reading the comments on this app suggests it does not always work as expected: Users even recommend to use the manual way I described above.
Another option is using [Titanium Backup](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.keramidas.TitaniumBackup), and restore the Wifi data on the other device. I did that successfully a couple of times, also cross-device and cross-ROM.
Third option is offered by the app [Wifi Passwords](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.nevercertain.wifipasswords.pro) (about USD 1), which allows you to share networks.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You can do this **without root** permissions as its built into Android ICS. Just go to:
**Settings -> Backup & Reset**

Then when you setup the tablet you can restore all the Wi-Fi data from your phone when you sync from the same Google account.
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/02 | 1,268 | 4,522 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a lot of music encoded in [Apple Lossless](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_Lossless) (ALAC), but Google Play Music doesn’t seem to support it. Instead Google Play Music supports [FLAC](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FLAC), but iTunes doesn’t support it.
I don’t care how encoded my music are, but want to encode these without any loss. How do you guys manage your lossless music using iTunes + Google Play Music? I believe it’s not only my problem.
**Edit**: Okay, I finally gave up, and encoded my all files encoded in ALAC/FLAC to normal AAC. There seems no way to use both at a time as of now.<issue_comment>username_1: First are you talking about storing the music on your Android device or on the Google servers?
If you are planning on streaming music to your device from the Google Music Play servers then you can't store your music in a lossless format see this [page about formats on Google Play Music](http://support.google.com/googleplay/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=1100462&rd=1), and notice this line:
>
> FLAC, ogg, and aac files are transcoded to 320kbps mp3
>
>
>
However, if you want to store the music locally on your device then your question makes more sense.
There are a few ways to put ALAC music on your Android device in FLAC
1. Keep your library in ALAC and convert songs to FLAC as you want them. Then move the new FLAC files to your device. A program like [Max](http://sbooth.org/Max/) should be able to handle the conversion for you.
2. Convert all of your ALAC files to FLAC in place and then use [fluke](http://code.google.com/p/flukeformac/) to enable FLAC playback support in itunes.
What option you select depends on how much you like to keep your OS free of plugins like fluke and how ofter you are moving music to and from your device.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Where do you got your music files? If you rip them from a CD you can rip again to [WAV](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WAV). I think both iTunes and Android Player support it
and [WAV](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WAV) is better than FLAC or ALAC, though is bigger size.
If you insist keeping your current format, you can always try another player
like [FLAC Player](http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/flac-player/id390532592) or [Golden Ears](http://itunes.apple.com/br/app/golden-ear/id407945101) for iPod/iPhone/iPad, or [Poweramp for Android](http://powerampapp.com/buy-poweramp/).
I personally use [FLAC Player](http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/flac-player/id390532592) in my iPod and [Poweramp](http://powerampapp.com/buy-poweramp/) in a Sony NWZ-Z1060 (Android walkman).
My current format for portable is FLAC and for Desktop is [WAV](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WAV). I'm an audiophile, so I'm very sensitive about file format. I still prefer FLAC for portable because the size difference between FLAC/ALAC and [WAV](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WAV) is very huge.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: As has been established in other answers, Google's Play Music program does not support files in ALAC. However, the M4A extension is used by several supported formats so Play Music will attempt to add these files to its library. Unfortunately, when Play Music actually tries to play these files, it causes errors. One solution (mentioned above) is to re-encode the files into a supported format.
If you want to keep ALAC files on your device for use by other players, you will need to prevent Google Play from seeing your ALAC/M4A files. After considerable research (and a fruitless exchange with Google Support), I discovered that Play Music will respect ".nomedia" files. When a .nomedia file is placed in a folder, the media scanner will ignore (recursively) that folder. While there are several techniques for putting .nomedia files in place (e.g. this list), StudioKUMA's [.nomedia Manager](http://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.studiokuma.nomedia&hl=en) is by far the easiest.
WARNING: While this approach is able to hide the ALAC files from Play Music, it may hide your ALAC files from the player you want to use. In my case, [Rocket Music Player](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jrtstudio.AnotherMusicPlayer&hl=en) provides the option (1) to limit the library to specific music folders and (2) to ignore .nomedia files in those folders. This combination (for me at least) allowed me to keep and use my ALAC files without breaking Play Music (which I use to access older MP3s synced to the cloud).
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/09/02 | 787 | 2,704 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a "handset" with Android 2.3.4, and the "flip" feature works for every app and screen, except the desktop. That is, if I flip my phone any screen or app will flip too, yet the desktop remains fixed. There was an exception when I was playing a game and I pressed the home button: there the desktop was flipped, but it seems it was "forced" to flip by the game. How can I make it flip like any other app or screen?<issue_comment>username_1: If it doesn't work out of the box, which is the case with many Android phones, then you have a few different options:
* A launcher replacement which adds this feature (may not work with all ROMs)
* [A custom ROM like cyanogen mod, which has this feature built in.](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/17152/where-can-i-find-stock-or-custom-roms-for-my-android-device) You can read more about custom ROMs [here](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/2885/what-is-the-difference-between-rooting-jailbreak-rom-mod-etc)
* Wait for an official update which adds this feature. (may never happen)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: *Old question, but this answer is relevant for other Android versions.*
---
I suffer from the similar problem in my Android 4.2.1 where all apps would follow auto-rotation except the home screen (default Launcher app). I found a solution mentioned [here](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/54167/96277) and [here](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/110942/96277).
The device needs to be rooted and [Xposed Framework](http://repo.xposed.info/module/de.robv.android.xposed.installer) installed. [App Settings](http://repo.xposed.info/module/de.robv.android.xposed.mods.appsettings) is the app that did the job in my device.
Instructions
------------
1. Install, activate and launch **App Settings**.
2. Locate and select your default launcher app → slide to **ON**.
3. Change **Orientation** to `Normal rotation` if you want orientation to be synced with auto-rotation, or choose other ones based on your needs.
4. Tap "[save](https://cdn2.iconfinder.com/data/icons/crystalproject/crystal_project_256x256/devices/3floppy_unmount.png)" icon next to **ON** to save settings.
5. Go back to Launcher, and as per your settings you will notice the orientation in it.
[Default Launcher in landscape mode with auto-rotation](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JEyPY.png)

[App drawer in landscape mode with auto-rotation](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bb2TM.png)

---
We're good to go!
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/09/02 | 741 | 2,871 | <issue_start>username_0: Everyone knows that start Android camera sometimes is a pain, specially if you wish to take a picture of something that lasts only some seconds. What I want to know is: is there a way or an app that makes the camera start faster?
**Note** that I'm not asking about picture shot, though this is important too. I think that as soon as the camera is started, this is not a big deal.<issue_comment>username_1: If any app takes significant time to open, it means that app is heavy on resources and/or there's high load on system. Before bringing any app in memory, Android first makes room for it in memory (technically, it happens based on [minfree](http://publib.boulder.ibm.com/infocenter/pseries/v5r3/index.jsp?topic=/com.ibm.aix.prftungd/doc/prftungd/values_minfree_maxfree_param.htm) value even if there's room for that app).
So, to solve the issue, do these things:
* Reduce load from system. Less running apps in memory means less probability of minfree based ju-ju.
* Use a lightweight camera app. Lightweight apps are loaded in memory faster and again there's less probability of minfree based ju-ju.
There are many lightweight camera apps in Play Store. Just, search "Fast Camera".
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Try [InstaCamera Pro](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=longwell.instant.camera.pro) from Google Play Store. It starts very fast and has preferences to start camera and takes photo just by a single touch from home screen of your phone:
>
> InstaCamera is the quickest way to take a photo with your phone.
>
>
> There's no long process: just press the widget and it takes a photo, then closes just as quickly.
>
>
>
The [paid PRO version](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=longwell.instant.camera.pro) is supposed to be faster than the [free version](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=longwell.instant.camera).
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: I have done a serious research on this topic and i found that **all device has an opening lag** and it is independent of your camera applications i.e, it is hardware dependent. It(the lag) will be keep varying depending on the memory and processor state. Some smartphones are successful in covering it with their high end hardware resources.
**Consider a scenario** : if we have a bundle of apps opened in memory and you opened camera with any of your camera application then you feel lagging more than before. Now you can understand easily that this lagging time is a varying factor.
i have even created an application for this called "camera opening lag checker" it calculates your camera lag time and allows you to compare it with world's top devices real time.
Meizu PRO 5's camera opened in .17ms where Samsung s6,s7 are also performing great with .25ms, .26 respectively
Thank You
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/02 | 282 | 1,179 | <issue_start>username_0: I installed [Apex Launcher](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.anddoes.launcher) on my S3. It takes some configuring before it is useful, so I didn't assign it to the default action of my home key. I then did accidently set the default action to use the standard launcher.
I can't find any way to now set the Apex shell/launcher/what ever it is to be the default when you press home.
Any ideas how to change my home button function?<issue_comment>username_1: Go to Settings > Apps > Click on the "All" tab then find your current launcher (the one that is default now) in the list. In the App Info page you should have the option to "clear defaults". Click this and the next time you hit the home button you will have the option to select a different launcher.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You can also run Apex Launcher from the app drawer of your default "stock" launcher. Navigate to Apex settings > ADVANCED > SET DEFAULT LAUNCHER which will do the same thing - clear the default action and display the popup menu allowing you to choose from the launcher apps currently installed on your device.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2012/09/03 | 2,918 | 10,690 | <issue_start>username_0: What is the fastest way to transfer huge files (e.g. 500MB) between two android powered devices? Bluetooth? WiFi direct? Beam? or maybe USB on-the-go?<issue_comment>username_1: There are many variables that affect the performance of each method you've mentioned.
Additionally there's also the necessary configuration and requirements that each device must have in order to have solutions like this working.
As requested, lets summarize and compare possible performances between USB; Wi-Fi and Bluetooth:
USB:
====
USB performance can be extremely low or very high, depending on the available USB version, which in turn, combined with the SDcard reading/writing speed on each device allows us to accurately measure and ascertain the transfer speed.
There's also the physical limitation of the USB cable length that for some scenarios becomes a limitation.
>
> [USB 1.0](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus#USB_1.0): 1.5 Mbit/s (Low-Bandwidth) and 12 Mbit/s (Full-Bandwidth)
>
>
> [USB 2.0](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus#USB_2.0): 480 Mbit/s (effective throughput up to 35 MB/s)
>
>
> [USB 3.0](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_Serial_Bus#USB_3.0): 5 Gbit/s (625 MB/s) which is more than 10 times as fast as USB 2
>
>
>
Wi-Fi
=====
Wi-Fi loses limitations like cable length, but then again we need to account for the 802.11 protocol being used, the signal strength and range to accurately measure results:
```
┌────────────┬─────────────────────────────────┬──────────────────────────┐
│ Protocol │ Data rate per stream (Mbit/s) │ Approximate range (m) │
│ | ├────────────┬─────────────┤
│ | Bandwidth of 20 MHz | indoor | outdoor │
├────────────┼─────────────────────────────────┼────────────┼─────────────┤
│ 802.11a │ 6, 9, 12, 18, 24, 36, 48, 54 │ 35 │ 120 │
├────────────┼─────────────────────────────────┼────────────┼─────────────┤
│ 802.11b │ 1, 2, 5.5, 11 │ 35 │ 140 │
├────────────┼─────────────────────────────────┼────────────┼─────────────┤
│ 802.11g │ 6, 9, 12, 18, 24, 36, 48, 54 │ 38 │ 140 │
├────────────┼─────────────────────────────────┼────────────┼─────────────┤
│ 802.11n │ 7.2, 14.4, 21.7, 28.9, 43.3, │ 70 │ 250 │
│ │ 57.8, 65, 72.2, │ │ │
│ │ │ │ │
│ │ With Bandwidth of 40 MHz: │ │ │
│ │ 15, 30, 45, 60, 90, 120, │ │ │
│ │ 135, 150 │ │ │
└────────────┴─────────────────────────────────┴────────────┴─────────────┘
```
More about Wi-Fi protocols from [Wikipedia](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IEEE_802.11#Protocols).
Wi-Fi Direct
============
Wi-Fi Direct, initially called Wi-Fi P2P, is a Wi-Fi standard that enables devices to connect easily with each other without requiring a wireless access point.
Here the communication is performed at [typical Wi-Fi speeds](http://www.wi-fi.org/knowledge-center/faq/how-fast-wi-fi-direct) for everything from file transfer to Internet connectivity. Essentially, Wi-Fi Direct falls under the same values presented at the Wi-Fi table (yet again keeping in mind that signal strength and range are the key factors for a good performance).
More about Wi-Fi Direct from [Wikipedia](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wi-Fi_Direct).
Bluetooth
=========
While we need to ascertain several influencing factors to determine if Wi-Fi is faster than USB, Bluetooth is with no doubt in last place when we speak about transfer speed. Designed as a proprietary open wireless technology standard for exchanging data over short distances, the maximum speeds are below the two concurrent options:
```
┌─────────────┬─────────────┬─────────────────────────────────────────┐
│ Version │ Data rate │ Maximum application throughput │
├─────────────┼─────────────┼─────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ 1.2 │ 1 Mbit/s │ 0.7 Mbit/s │
├─────────────┼─────────────┼─────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ 2.0 + EDR │ 3 Mbit/s │ 2.1 Mbit/s │
├─────────────┼─────────────┴─────────────────────────────────────────┤
│ 3.0 + HS │ │
├─────────────┤ theoretical data transfer speeds of up to 24 Mbit/s │
│ 4.0 │ │
└─────────────┴───────────────────────────────────────────────────────┘
```
More about Bluetooth from [Wikipedia](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth).
Android Beam
============
Being a fairly recent technology, [Android Beam](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Android_Beam) allows users to transfer data between devices with Near Field Communication (NFC) capabilities.
NFC is even slower than Bluetooth (both short-range communication technologies) and is limited to about 20cm of range getting up to 424 kbit/s.
On a positive note, NFC sets up more quickly than standard Bluetooth and the connection between two NFC devices is automatically established:
### Technical comparison:
```
┌──────────────┬────────────────┬────────────────┬──────────────────────┐
│ Aspect │ NFC │ Bluetooth │ Bluetooth Low Energy │
├──────────────┼────────────────┼────────────────┼──────────────────────┤
│ Network Type │ Point-to-point │ WPAN │ WPAN |
├──────────────┼────────────────┼────────────────┼──────────────────────┤
│ Range │ < 0.2 m │ ~100m (class1) │ ~50 m │
├──────────────┼────────────────┼────────────────┼──────────────────────┤
│ Bit rate │ 424 kbit/s │ 2.1 Mbit/s │ ~1.0 Mbit/s │
├──────────────┼────────────────┼────────────────┼──────────────────────┤
│ Set-up time │ < 0.1 s │ < 6 s │ < 0.006 s │
└──────────────┴────────────────┴────────────────┴──────────────────────┘
```
Only relevant aspects to this answer, for full table see [Wikipedia](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Near_field_communication#Comparison_with_Bluetooth).
---
Summary
=======
Based on the specifications for each method and their respective version, my classification ordered by fastest-to-lowest would be:
1. USB *assuming version 2.0, since 1.0 is way slow and outdated*
2. Wi-Fi / Wi-Fi Direct
3. Bluetooth
4. Android Beam
Upvotes: 6 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: If your android devices have removable SD card slot, the fastest way to transfer big files is to physically move the SD card from one device to another.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: After some experiences, it appears the Samsung Galaxy S4 software must recognize the file format first, before and during transfer from pc to the smartphone main memory. When moving the file to the SD Card memory, again the software needs to recognize the file, so this is done from either the (a) Move File option in the folder or, (b) Application option to Move to SD Card Memory.
{ for those smartphone users who need to save main memory space on their Samsung S4 }
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: For this Task I use an app called [shoutr](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.shoutr.shoutr). As I could see it is using the built in WiFi and so you get the full WiFi speed.
I like the interface; it's very easy to share music, videos and photos with friends on the way.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: I use android app called [Superbeam](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.majedev.superbeam) which enables wifi direct and enables you to get full wifi speed.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_6: The method I've used with great success is WiFi, using ES File Explorer on both devices ( sender and receiver). I simply turn on the WiFi, on both units, to access my home WAN, start ES File Explorer on both devices, select the files/folders I want to send, choose the 'Send' option, and on the receiving device - accept, select save location, press 'OK' to start receiving. I sent a 200 MB file from my 4 year old Huawei Ascend to my Samsung Galaxy S4, in about 6 minutes @ ~540 KB/s, this way.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_7: If you don't have micro SD slot in both device, the alternate solution is to use any free cloud services. You can try Google drive or Dropbox to install in both devices under same user name and try to sync/transfer files in between.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_8: I'm using hike messenger this messenger come with hike direct feature this feature allow share huge files. I'm sharing 1.2GB file within 4 minutes but this feature only available for Android device coming soon for windows phone and ios
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_9: [Swift File Transfer](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sft.fileshare) is 10x faster than Bluetooth, free and no hassle set up! From the app's description:
>
> Swift File Transfer is World’s fastest app to share installed apps, photos, files, folders and videos at with high speed of upto 8mbps with your friends and family without using intenet, data cable, mobile data, Wi-Fi, nfc etc. Now transfer GB's of data in the blink of an eye.
>
>
>
Both, sender and receiver, need to have the app installed. Transfer then is easy:
* Sender: Launch SFT app › Tap on “Send Button” › Select data to share › Tap on send
* Receiver: Launch SFT app › Tap on “Receive Button” › Tap on “Senders” image/name
Checking the playstore ratings, it seems to do well with bigger files (one user reports having transferred an entire video collection), but there seem to be issues with Marshmallow (most likely with the new permission system; two user report issues accessing the SD card, which might be worked around by manually granting the permission).
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_10: I use cross-platform [Liwi App](http://liwi.io/download.html) on my Mac and Android phone. It also works on Windows. It connects devices over WiFi automatically without any create and join process.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_11: Depending on your circumstances, the quickest way is either over Bluetooth file transfer, or directly through a cable. Bluetooth is nice because it is wireless and relatively quick for word documents and smaller files. Through the cable is better for large files such as video. However you have to carry a cable.
Really depends on circumstances.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/09/03 | 1,684 | 6,067 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Nexus 7 (Android 4.1.1) and I want to add a CA (Certificate Authority) to my device to use it for the ssl-connection to my mail server. The CA is self-signed. The Certificate does only contain the public key of the CA (of course!).
I also want to keep my screenlock disabled because on a tablet not leaving my house it does not make sense to have a screen lock.
Now the problem arises: Whenever I want to import the CA, Android wants me to change my screenlock to digits/password which I want to avoid.
Can this behaviour somehow be prevented? There is nothing security critical at a public key of a CA.
I know that when the phone is rooted one can add a CA, but I want to avoid rooting my phone.<issue_comment>username_1: There is no way I know of which will achieve this. I've been looking for a way of doing the same thing for a while now, as my work requires me to use a CA, but have found nothing after a lot of looking. If you were rooted then it might be possible, but without root I'm afraid you're going to have to just deal with it.
Sorry!
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: In case you decide to root the phone (you can only root it temporarily to install the certificates, it doesn't need to remain rooted), you can upload the certificates into a directory and the next reboot they will be validated:
```
adb shell mount -o remount,rw /system
adb push 1dbdda5d.0 /system/etc/security/cacerts/
```
where `1dbdda5d.0` is your certificate to be trusted.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: There is a way. Just install your certificate the usual way and set "Patterns" as lock screen to do so. Lock the screen. Fail on the patterns 5 times, then click on "forgot pattern" in the lower right corner, login with your Google account and voilà ... the lock screen is reset to "none" and certificates are still there.
Just tested it on Galaxy Note N7000 with 4.1.2
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: I've written an article on creating & installing CAcert certificates as Android System Certificates (Android >=4.2), thus allowing you to use your device without lockscreen:
<http://wiki.pcprobleemloos.nl/android/cacert>
Main part of my article:
```
cat root.crt > 5ed36f99.0
openssl x509 -inform PEM -text -in root.crt -out /dev/null >> 5ed36f99.0
cat class3.crt > e5662767.0
openssl x509 -inform PEM -text -in class3.crt -out /dev/null >> e5662767.0
```
Copy the files `5ed36f99.0` and `e5662767.0` to `/system/etc/security/cacerts/` (and `chmod 644` them), `reboot` and it should work. Check Settings -> Security -> Certificates, it should list both "CAcert Inc." and "Root CA". Note that some browsers might use their own certificate store instead of the Android one.
The Android security model explicitly forces you to have a lockscreen whenever a non-system (user) certificate is installed. There is no configuration option around this.
You can either replace your stock Android version with one which has removed this requirement (I do not think that any exist, but you could theoretically create your own).
The other option is using (temporary) root access for installing this certificate, and then 'unrooting' it, although that sounds a bit silly.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: Sorry, root access is require AFAIK. For everybody who has root access and Android 4+, here a detailed description how to add it to Android's system certificate folder:
Assuming your certificate file - let's call it `root.cer` - looks like this:
```
-----BEGIN CERTIFICATE-----
MIIDgzCCAmugAw[...]
[...]
-----END CERTIFICATE-----
```
Obtain the name Android needs for it (".0" is appended) and store in variable `$name`:
```
name=$(openssl x509 -inform PEM -subject_hash_old -in root.cer | head -1).0
```
Sample output for: `echo $name`
```
00673baa.0
```
Create the certificate file for Android:
```
cat root.cer > $name
openssl x509 -inform PEM -text -in root.cer -out /dev/null >> $name
```
Copy certificate file to SD card:
```
adb push $name /sdcard
```
Open Android shell:
```
adb shell
```
Become root and copy certificate to Android's system certificate folder:
```
su
mount -o remount,rw /system
cp /sdcard/00673baa.0 /system/etc/security/cacerts/
```
**Note: For the last command you need to replace the certificate file name!**
Now reboot. Make sure that the certificate was correctly installed:
Goto `Settings` -> `Security` -> `Show trusted certificates`. Here in the system list you should find the name of the issuer of your self-signed certificate (which is equal to the subject). You can print it using:
```
openssl x509 -inform PEM -issuer -in root.cer -out /dev/null
```
Now you can delete all certificates (system certificates are not touched) and remove the lock screen.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: I found a way to solve the problem, but it requires root and may only work with root, self-signed, or intermediate CAs.
If you have a certificate that is not trusted by Android, when you add it, it goes in the personal cert store. When you add a cert in this personal cert store, the system requires a higher security level to unlock the device. But if you manage to add your cert to the system store then you don't have this requirement. Obviously, root is required to add a certificate to the system store, but it is quiet easy.
Here is how to do it :
1 - Add your cert normally. For example, my cert was called `some.crt`. It will be stored in your personal store and android will ask you a pin/password... Proceed.
2 - With a file manager with root capabilities, browse files in `/data/misc/keychain/cacerts-added` or `/data/misc/keystore`. You should see a file here called `1000_USRCERT_some` it's the certificate you have added in step 1.
3 - Move this file to `system/etc/security/cacerts` **(you will need to mount
the system partition r/w)**
4 - Reboot the phone
5 - You are now able to clear the pin/password you have set to unlock the
device.
Worked for me with a self-signed cert on Android 4.4.2. Hope it helps!
Upvotes: -1 |
2012/09/03 | 301 | 1,142 | <issue_start>username_0: I just bought an Alcatel One Touch 995 with Gingerbread 2.3, when I display the notification the notification pane I have some icons I can click to activate GPS, wifi, bluetooth, rotation...
I know there are some power control tools but I'd like to know if there is a way to cutomize the icons already displayed in my notification pane?<issue_comment>username_1: Not by default. Certain ROMs like CyanogenMod do allow you to customise the toggles and the order in which they're displayed.
A possible workaround could be this app - [Notification Toggle](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.j4velin.notificationToggle)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Not on a stock rom, sorry.
On certain custom/aftermarket ROM's, such as [CyanogenMod](http://cyanogenmod.com "CyanogenMod Website"), have the ability to customize these icons, by letting you add, remove and reorder the icons.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Stock ROMs often don't allow to customize notification toggles. Either you'll have to flash a custom ROM (e.g. CyanogenMod) or install a third-party app (e.g. Widgetsoid).
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/09/03 | 318 | 1,201 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Nexus 7 running Jelly Bean. I was downloading a file and somehow I managed to remove a tick mark some were. Now I can not download anything from the net without Chrome stops working. Then I tried to download a backup program from Play Store, that mad Play store stop.
How and where do I add the tickmark again? Will I have to reset my Nexus 7? If so are all the app I bought then lost?<issue_comment>username_1: Not by default. Certain ROMs like CyanogenMod do allow you to customise the toggles and the order in which they're displayed.
A possible workaround could be this app - [Notification Toggle](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.j4velin.notificationToggle)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Not on a stock rom, sorry.
On certain custom/aftermarket ROM's, such as [CyanogenMod](http://cyanogenmod.com "CyanogenMod Website"), have the ability to customize these icons, by letting you add, remove and reorder the icons.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Stock ROMs often don't allow to customize notification toggles. Either you'll have to flash a custom ROM (e.g. CyanogenMod) or install a third-party app (e.g. Widgetsoid).
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/09/04 | 957 | 3,882 | <issue_start>username_0: **Synopsis:** Trying to access local web development server connected by WiFi to Android tether. Everything seems to be connected and operating correctly, but phone's web browser times out when accessing local server.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Context:** I've got an Android device running [android-wifi-tether](http://code.google.com/p/android-wifi-tether/). It works as advertised. I connect to it from my Ubuntu 12.04 laptop running Apache 2.2.22. The laptop is manually configured to IP 192.168.2.100 in the hosts file. It can ping itself and access it's own web server through that address.
The WiFi tether hotspot gives the laptop the same 192.168.2.100 address(Laptop was configured to match the hotspot address as a troubleshooting step, and could be wrong.) Using [ping](http://www.androidzoom.com/android_applications/tools/ping_nhv.html) I can ping the laptop from the phone using the 192.168.2.100 address. Using [portscan](http://www.androidzoom.com/android_applications/tools/port-scanner-donate_mbpw.html) the phone shows port 80 open on the 192.168.2.100 address.
So, everything looks like it's in place, but any attempt to browse to `http://192.168.2.100` fails after a few moments with a 504(Gateway time out)
Any help would certainly be help.
**Update:**
I've install SSH and migrated to Nginx on the server. Portscan now shows ports 22 and 80 open. Using [ConnectBot](http://code.google.com/p/connectbot/) I can login and get my own shell on the server machine by IP address. This should indicate that the network is functioning properly.
I've also install the Dolphin browser on the phone to help verify that it's not an issue with the browser. Still I am curious if the browser is actually looking for the address first within the hotspot's IP space, or if it's looking to the internet, where that address will always time out.
I am very new to the Android scene. I would really appreciate some feedback as to how to get my phone browsing a tethered server. The workflow I'm looking for makes connection to a local server critical.
Thanks again.
**Solution** As I assumed, due to HTTP Proxy settings the web request was bypassing local addresses. I found that if I changed the tether network to 10.\* IP range my provider responded with "access to this url has been blocked." That made it evident that something was blocking some requests, and more than likely also leaving the others to die out in the unroutable nether-net. Used [HTTP Proxy Settings](http://www.androidzoom.com/android_applications/communication/http-proxy-settings_lypw.html) to clear out HTTP Proxy address.<issue_comment>username_1: You need to set android-wifi-tether to give out IP addresses in a different subnet than the other networks your laptop connects to (e.g. home, work). You can do this within its Settings.
You also need to set up your web server to listen on the given address. Based on your description you are most likely using nginx; in that case add `listen 192.168.2.100:80;` to the appropriate `server` block.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Problem may be caused by HTTP Proxy server. Proxies help to manage web traffic on the providers end, but can and probably will disrupt access to local addresses. Proxy options may be available in your network settings, but on many phones these options are hidden. An app such as [HTTP Proxy Settings](http://www.androidzoom.com/android_applications/communication/http-proxy-settings_lypw.html) will give access to the hidden settings. Simply clear out the hostname and port for un-proxied access. Make sure to write down original values so changes can be undone.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2012/09/04 | 390 | 1,424 | <issue_start>username_0: **The General Question**: Is it possible to install custom kernels on a Rooted Stock ROM?
**The Example**: I have a Nexus 7 which I have rooted running 4.1.1 (Jelly Bean JRO03D) would it be possible to just flash a custom kernel,
say this one <http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1831780>,
on my stock ROM using Clockwork Recovery?
Sorry if this is obvious, but I've only really done it on custom roms, and I couldn't find a definite answer on the interwebs<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, it is possible to install custom kernels on stock roms. The kernel developer will usually say which roms (or types of roms) the kernel supports. If you are not sure you can try reading the kernel thread, and there will always be poeple saying things like "working great on [firmware version here]". This way you can also make sure that it will work ok on your version of the stock rom.
As for your example, yes you can flash this on your stock rom:
[xda-developers](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=30753872&postcount=280)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Yes. You can flash a custom kernel on your stock ROM, but it has to be the appropriate kernel i.e. it has to be the version the kernel supports. In this case you will be limited to overclocking only. However, you can download setcpu, nofrills, voltage control, cpu contol, etc to enjoy max.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/09/04 | 500 | 1,981 | <issue_start>username_0: Is there any default support on Android basic apps (phone, browser, contacts...) for NFC?
Because if I want to develop for NFC, the user will need to install my NFC app. But for simple tasks that use default apps like phone, is there any default support? For example if I want to make a NFC tag to call my phone number. Or would I need to create an app even for this?<issue_comment>username_1: Essentially the individual apps don't need to have any understanding of NFC at all, they just respond to one of their standard intents that's been pushed to them by Android's central NFC Service. By default, that NFC Service handles reading the NFC tag and triggering the relevant intent to pass info on to another app on the device, like the Dialler.
One very easy way to play around with triggering actions by NFC is using Microsoft's [ON{X} app](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.microsoft.onx.app) (yes, bizarrely this is a Microsoft app that's only available on Android). As long as you've already got the hardware support, this lets you trigger a whole lot of actions with an NFC tag, with an absolutely minimal amount of simple scripting. See [their recent blog entry on NFC](https://dev.onx.ms/2012/08/23/nfc/) for some of what you can do.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Since the introduction of NFC in Android 2.3 Gingerbread there has been some basic support for NFC included, such as opening the browser when scanning an NFC tag with an http:// URL, opening the phone app with an tel: URI, messaging with an SMS: URI, email with an mailto: URI, adding a contact with a vCard tag, etc.
Since Android 4.0 ICS, some standard apps and many Google apps have been extended with the function to share data via Android Beam, too. E.g. the current browser URL, a displayed contact, the clip URL in the Youtube app, displayed location in Maps, etc. By default also non-NFC apps share their Play Store URL via Android Beam.
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/04 | 856 | 2,777 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to double check that my HTC One XL is evita model.
I am almost sure I saw it in a menu somewhere but I cannot find it anymore.
Could somebody guide me where I can find such info?<issue_comment>username_1: According to the [Wikipedia article](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HTC_One_X#Model_comparison_table), all the HTC One XL devices fall under the Evita model. Evita is just the code name for the device. Just about every device is initially manufactured with a "codename". This is more just like an internal name for the device. This could be because they have not decided on a "public brand" for the device yet, or just because they want to call it something else internally.
Sometimes the codename resides in the model name in the Settings -> About Phone. But if you have `adb` access to your device, you can do something like:
```
> adb shell
$ getprop
```
this will dump out all the properties that are configured during the boot process. one of them, probably something like `ro.product.device` will contain the value `evita`.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Codename: Evita
===============
AFAIK, the HTC One XL has the codename of Evita, and no other was attributed to this model.
The XL was introduced into the market just like the HTC One X, but with a significant improvement in communications:
>
> HTC One XL(TE) 4G Network (**LTE** 1800 / 2600)
>
>
>
PC World Australia article: [HTC One XL review: HTC's One X gets the superfast 4G treatment. Is the extra speed worth it?](http://www.pcworld.idg.com.au/review/mobile_phones/htc/one_xl/416591)
Phone Information
=================
1. About the Phone:
To check you device's information, you can go to "Settings" and select "About Phone":

If the codename is presented, you should find it on the information provided there.
2. Accessing the configuration file:
You can use a file manager and navigate to `/system/` and open the `build.prop` file, that contains all the details about your system.
Locate the lines that start by `ro.product` to know your device's model; brand; codename; CPU and manufacturer (among others).
---
References:
===========
* [PDADB.net Search results for "HTC One" that include the devide codename](http://pdadb.net/index.php?m=pdamaster&posted=1&model=HTC%20ONE&num_rows_max=0)
* [GSM Arena - HTC One XL: Full phone specifications](http://www.gsmarena.com/htc_one_xl-4572.php)
* [geekaphone.com - HTC One XL Specifications](http://geekaphone.com/phones/HTC-One-XL-specs)
* [HTC Smartphones: HTC One XL](http://www.htc.com/asia/smartphones/htc-one-xl/)
* [Wikipedia: HTC One XL](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HTC_One_X#One_XL)
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/04 | 687 | 2,744 | <issue_start>username_0: My Galaxy Mini powers on, but then hangs on the "Samsung Galaxy Mini" splash screen.
How can I re-install Android, or get it booting again?<issue_comment>username_1: Just found that solution and it worked for me! <http://howtorootmobile.com/stuck-in-android-boot-loop-tips-to-fix-recover-from-boot-loop/>
FYI my phone is not rooted, so I followed the first solution.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: You can fix it manly two ways. Performing a factory reset via stock recovery or flash stock firmware. Resetting is the easiest method. Press and hold power button, home and volume up keys until you see the Android robot logo. Stock recovery doesn't work touch screen you can use volume keys for navigation and power button /home key for selection.
Once you're in the recovery go to the "wipe user data" option via volume key and select that option via power key. Next choose "Yes" option.
Once it's complete you can reboot the phone via stock recovery. In recovery main menu choose "reboot" and select "yes".
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Just had the same problem with ***Samsung Galaxy S III mini***:
Steps I have tried:
1. Do a "hard reboot" with long press of the Power button.
2. Connect phone to the charger, then try to turn it on (that was the original problem: phone showed its logo, then turned black. Unfortunately after charging it it now hangs at the first boot-up screen (once it went as far as to the screen with "SAMSUNG" in it, i.e. the second screen; the third is usually operator logo).
3. Remove the battery, press the Power button (with battery outside) to get rid of residual charge, then try to turn it on. Didn't work for me.
4. Try to boot phone into "Safe Mode": press Power and Volume Down together for a while to do a hard reboot, then stop holding Power as soon as the phone turns on (vibrates). Didn't work for me, but it can supposedly cure the situation where last installed app was responsible for the hang-up.
5. Go to "Recovery Mode" by holding Power + Home + Volume Up buttons together (you can stop holding Power button when phone vibrates) until you see the swirly Android logo. You should get a recovery mode menu, where you navigate with volume keys, and choose option with the power button.
Here you can delete the `/cache` partition, then reboot phone. It did work, but it didn't helped me. It can supposedly cure the situation where the lack of disk space on this partition was responsible for the hang-up.
I have tried steps 2-4 again.
6. Reset phone to factory defaults from the same "Recovery Mode". This I have not tried yet (I'll try to recover data somehow... though most of my data is on microSD, and I have copied that already).
HTH.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/09/04 | 1,269 | 4,534 | <issue_start>username_0: I am using Android 4.0.3 and I can no longer find package name for some app. If I recall, I used to go to Applications and has been able to see it there.
So, how can I see full package name of some app? Like, the app's name is "Test" and I need to see its package `com.test.mytest`.<issue_comment>username_1: You can look into the LogCat.
1. Open the LogCat.
* Either in Eclipse or on the cmd line if the device is connected to your PC.
* Or on your mobile itself, using any app which allows you to view LogCat.
2. Once LogCat is available, launch the app.
The log corresponding to **"ActivityManager"** will display the activity started. It will usually be in the format: `"Starting activity: Intent { act=android.intent.action.MAIN cat=[android.intent.category.LAUNCHER]..."`.
However technical this approach might be, this is - IMHO - the best way to achieve knowledge about the launching activity for any of the installed apps.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: If you are proficient at using `adb` and Linux you can find it pretty quick using the linux command `grep`.
Just do:
```
adb shell
ls -al /data/data/ | grep 'yourAppName'
```
You need root of course to be able to search in `/data/data/`
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: **Edit:** I like [ofir\_aghai's answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/199965/5132) better, although my answer may still be helpful for apps that aren't on the Google Play Store.
If you're comfortable using the command line, a solution I like is Android's pm command. It can easily be called using [adb](http://developer.android.com/tools/help/adb.html) like so:
```
$ adb shell "pm list packages -f test"
package:/system/app/AutomationTest_JBUP.apk=com.sec.android.app.DataCreate
package:/system/app/BluetoothTest.apk=com.sec.android.app.bluetoothtest
```
Replace `test` with whatever package you're looking for.
pm has a variety of options that may be useful depending what you want to do:
```
usage: pm list packages [-f] [-d] [-e] [-s] [-3] [-i] [-u] [FILTER]
pm list packages: prints all packages, optionally only
those whose package name contains the text in FILTER. Options:
-f: see their associated file.
-d: filter to only show disbled packages.
-e: filter to only show enabled packages.
-s: filter to only show system packages.
-3: filter to only show third party packages.
-i: see the installer for the packages.
-u: also include uninstalled packages.
```
Upvotes: 6 <issue_comment>username_4: Many apps can show the package name of the installed apps. I'm suggesting [App Manager](https://f-droid.org/en/packages/io.github.muntashirakon.AppManager/) (available on F-Droid) which I currently use. Search the app name or the package name, and the the relevant entries would start showing up.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q4DBal.jpg)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: Just share the app from Google Play Store to somewhere, (by clicking on the share button in the app's page)
and see the shared value.
You will see something like:
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.my.packagename>
(If you cant find it in Google Play:
You can long press on app icon and press on "Application info"
Go to the bottom of the Android page, and then click on "App details in store")
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_6: Use [Link2SD](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.buak.Link2SD). It can list apps by name and show package names and other useful info.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_7: Use [App Manager](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lb.app_manager) app. It has plenty of features: sorting, filtering, finding, managing APK files, showing removed apps (since the time you've installed the app), root operations, and handling various split-APK files (APKS, APKM, XAPK) right from file manager apps.
Disclosure: I made the app.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_8: * You can search for the app's name in the Play Store and open that app. Now look into the URL. The last part of the URL is the package name, like `id=com.google`.
* You can use `adb shell` and execute `pm list packages -f`. There are many operators, look into it. If you do not find all packages, then use `dumpsys package` command.
On Oppo mobile, `pm list packages` provide me with 150 entries while `dumpsys package` provide me with 163 entries.
* You can use an Android package name viewer application.
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/09/04 | 1,471 | 5,273 | <issue_start>username_0: Answers to the following question list a number of Android apps that can be used to backup SMS messages:
* [How do I backup and restore SMS Messages?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/2466/how-do-i-backup-and-restore-sms-messages)
However, all of the applications mentioned in the answers seem to require lots of permissions that are not strictly necessary; examples include "receive SMS", "edit SMS or MMS", "full Internet access", "read contact data", "write contact data", "write contact data", "read phone state and identity", etc.
Is there any tool that
1. simply copies all SMS messages to a local file on the SD card,
2. does not require any irrelevant permissions – as far as I can see, permissions "read SMS or MMS" and "modify/delete SD card contents" should be enough.
---
**Edit:** Based on the answers, I had a closer look at *[SMS Backup & Restore Pro](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.riteshsahu.SMSBackupRestorePro)*. It is better than nothing – at least it does not require any kind of Internet access. However:
* It cannot copy messages stored on the SIM card, only messages stored in the inbox.
* It does not work on **Android 3.2 tablets**.
* It still requires far too many permissions for my needs.
TxtArchive does not seem to work on Android 3.2, either.<issue_comment>username_1: As you don't ask to restore them (just to backup): Did you take a look at [TxtArchive SMS Backup](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.zillce.android.txtarchive2)? Yupp, costs a few bucks. But hence it needs no ads, and no internet: Read SMS/MMS, Read Contactdata (both are connected -- you surely want to know who wrote the SMS ;), and store to SD.
Similarly [SMS Backup & Restore Pro](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.riteshsahu.SMSBackupRestorePro) for about the same price (2 Euro), which also wants to write SMS/MMS (to restore them), and keep the phone from sleeping while it does the work.
Oh, plus the requirement mentioned by Flow: ["read phone state and identity" is also required.](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/3368/440) -- though the app states Android minversion 1.6 (this requirement was removed with Android 2.0 AFAIK -- for all previous versions it was a "must").
Simple search for [SMS Backup](https://play.google.com/store/search?q=sms+backup&c=apps) on the playstore, both on page 1 -- not too hard to find. Hope you like them ;)
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_2: **Have a look at SlightBackup or (again) at LifeSaver2:**
* SlightBackup on [f-droid.org](http://f-droid.org/repository/browse/?fdfilter=sms&fdid=de.shandschuh.slightbackup&fdpage=1)
* LifeSaver2 on [f-droid.org](http://f-droid.org/repository/browse/?fdfilter=life&fdid=com.textuality.lifesaver2&fdpage=1)
**Some notes on LifeSaver2:**
Not the one in Google Play but the old version!
An older version of LifeSaver2 is available on the purely open source [f-droid.org](http://f-droid.org/repository/browse/?fdfilter=life&fdid=com.textuality.lifesaver2&fdpage=1) repository.
Permissions for the old version:
Used to read SMS:
⚠ Read SMS or MMS [READ\_SMS]
⚠ Receive SMS [RECEIVE\_SMS]
⚠ Modify/delete USB storage contents [WRITE\_EXTERNAL\_STORAGE]
Used to read call logs:
⚠ Read contact data [READ\_CONTACTS]
Used to restore call logs and SMS:
⚠ Write contact data [WRITE\_CONTACTS]
⚠ Edit SMS or MMS [WRITE\_SMS]
If you are still super paranoid you can use [apktool](http://code.google.com/p/android-apktool/) (an android .apk reverse engineering tool) to remove the latter two or three permissions listed above from the given .apk. You can also inspect the old code snapshot and build a modified version of it yourself if you want to further suit your needs.
Some background on *why* LifeSaver2 changed:
LifeSaver2 is in fact a *migration* tool that you use to move your call-log/SMS'es from the old to a new Android phone. You did that by backing stuff on the old up, insert the external SD card into the new phone and use the app again to restore there.
Newer Android devices don't necessarily have an external SD card anymore. It's cumbersome for a big majority of LifeSaver2's users to manually transfer the backup data files, so the author (which works at Google) decided to backup to the cloud (Google AppEngine atm.) instead of the SD card at some point.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: If the reason that you're worried about permissions is because you are worried that an app might do something nefarious, why not try an open-source solution? That way if the program was doing anything bad, developers would know from looking at its source code.
[SMS Backup +](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.zegoggles.smssync&hl=en) is an open-source tool. The source is available at <https://github.com/jberkel/sms-backup-plus> .
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: "Backup to Gmail " is an app am using on my S3 (don't have any other Android device to try it on)
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_5: Questions.
* Are you using the stock app?
* Will you consider using a replacement app for SMS?
If yes, consider GoSMS Pro. Contrary to what the name suggests, it's free and backups messages to the SD card.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/09/04 | 916 | 3,809 | <issue_start>username_0: Why does the stock Galaxy / Android app only keep the latest 25 emails?
Its pretty annoying and lame for me who receive well over 50 emails per day in my work email. That means I cant even see a whole day's email without "loading more" and I don't always have Internet connection where I am.
Is there any way to work around this issue?
Edit: I am on ICS<issue_comment>username_1: The stock email application and many other I've tested present a list of 25 emails per page.
The user can however load older emails on demand. This is done due to two main reasons:
* to prevent large transfers of data that end up using the device communication thus leading to a faster battery drain;
* to preserve memory consumption that in turn would leave your device slow and inefficient.
I haven't found any option on all the applications I've tested that allows the user to define how much emails should be presented each time.
I did find that the Gmail app auto-loads a new emails list when we reach the scroll limit, thus kinda facilitating the users trouble, but even with this scenario, the user needs to scroll all the way down to get the new list, and yet again, the Gmail app like the others, doesn't have a setting to define the number of emails to be loaded each time.
Essentially, this is a status-by-design conception used by Android and app developers. You may come across with an app that allows you to go around this issue, unlikely it may be, but for the stock app, the reason as to why it loads only 25 emails at a time are the ones explained that sum up as performance issues.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: There is no option to save more messages locally, and there's no good excuse for why you can't. The user can only load older emails on demand. This is done for one reason:
* to make you more dependent on online connectivity, so that more people will need to subscribe to mobile data. This supports Google's goal of having everyone connected to the "cloud" and using their services.
It is not done to save battery; in fact less battery would be consumed if the messages were only transfered once over the radio and stored on the huge SD card that all Android phones have. Also, the faster access would reduce the screen-on time since you would see your older messages right away. It's also not done to save CPU or memory, since storage to the SD card would be easier on both.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_3: If radio waves use battery and not saving the mails on the device causes the devices to download them again and again, at what time does downloading them 15 times use less battery than downloading them once ? Now, think of the poor souls who have no good dataplan, fun, don't you think ?
Excatly.
So, while I do not like conspiracy theories, this is just plain silly, sorry, there is absolutely no valid excuse I can think of to keep it this way. I can save 1000's of emails on other non-Android ARM devices and get pretty good performance (BB10, iPhone) .
The other thing is, when I delete a mail on blackberry/iPhone, it deletes it on the server (well, it is a setting) wheras on Android, it deletes it on the device only - I guess this has to do with this limitation as well - guess what, this is bad, too.
And, finally, this k-9 alternative is not doing it for me. I cannot get it to connect to the IMAP server, it validates the password, but says 'cannot connect' (in French). Now, I've set up IMAP mail servers on UNIX so I know what I am talking about, it appears to have some problem with the encryption, from what I could see - the same settings work in the stock Android app.
Anyway, if you like to use email on a mobile device, bb10 is what you need, imho - android's not even in the same league.
Upvotes: -1 |
2012/09/05 | 544 | 2,266 | <issue_start>username_0: I recently acquired an Android-based tablet which is now running a rooted version 2.2; however, the manufacturer no longer supports or sells this particular tablet.
I'm interested in seeing if I can install Android 4.0 onto it by keeping the Linux kernel from 2.2 and just replacing everything else. Despite the GPL, the manufacturer never released any source code for their custom modifications so I can't, for example, compile a new kernel. So my basic plan is to replace the software stack with the stock Android 4.0, copy any custom applications over from 2.2 that came with the device, and see what happens.
Has anyone here tried anything like this before and can advise on any potential pitfalls before I go ahead and inadvertently brick my device? Thanks in advance!<issue_comment>username_1: You might want to look for a "Custom ROM". For many devices, the community provides custom-built ROMs which bring newer Android versions to their devices -- often even improved over the manufacturers version (better optimized, no bloatware), and even covering newer versions where the manufacturer stopped.
A good source to find out if there are any custom ROMs available for your device and which is [TheUnlockr](http://theunlockr.com/downloads/android-downloads/android-roms/), where everything is nicely grouped by manufacturer and device. Also, it seems to be the most complete source. Alternatively, there also is [CommunityRelease](http://db.communityrelease.com/androidspin_release_matrix.asp) (you can filter by device, Android version and developer) plus [PDADB](http://pdadb.net/index.php?m=repository&list=rom_update) (no filters at all: over 800 pages to check, and not restricted to Android devices -- so it will be hard to find things here. Though, it may serve as a kind of "last ressort").
As you report your device to be rooted, the most important pre-condition to install a custom ROM is already met ;)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: While there doesn't appear to be much activity on the development front, I have found one nice little enhancement for the PE.
[This mod](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=18128957) will enable the Google Play Store, as well as the other Google apps.
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/05 | 406 | 1,410 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to sync my Thunderbird Lightning calendar on my office laptop with my Samsung S III calendar. How can I do that?<issue_comment>username_1: As you don't specify, I assume your office laptop is running Windows. In this case you might want to take a look at the [MyPhoneExplorer Client](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.fjsoft.myphoneexplorer.client) App for your SGS, and its desktop pendant for your laptop. As far as I know (I'm not a Windows user), this should be the best and complete solution -- not only caring for your calendar with Thunderbird and others, but doing a lot more useful things to manage your device.
If you do not care for those extras, you might rather take a look at [BirdieSync for Thunderbird](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.callicia.birdiesync) (or simply [search the playstore for thunderbird](https://play.google.com/store/search?q=thunderbird&c=apps)).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: Have you considered using the Google calendar?
As far as I know you can sync the Samsung S III and the Thunderbird Lightning calendar with the Google calendar.
Samsung SIII:
<http://www.samsunggalaxys3forum.com/forum/samsung-galaxy-s3-help/1278-samsung-s3-s-calendar-not-syncing-google-calendar.html>
Lightning:
<http://www.vikitech.com/7955/sync-google-yahoo-windows-live-calendars-thunderbirds-lightning>
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/05 | 1,368 | 5,431 | <issue_start>username_0: I just got my Nexus 7 tablet and I was trying to load some music/videos to it. I have about 10 gigs worth of .mp3 files with no DRM in my computer. Since this is Android, I figured I would not be subject to the pain that is iTunes and I would simply be able to drag the music into a "Music" folder if I plugged in the tablet to my computer. Sure enough, I saw a folder named "Music" and tried dragging a couple of files to it. When I go to my Nexus, however, I don't see the files. I started reading up on this and it seems that the way to do things on Android is to use the Google Music Manager which would then put my songs in "the cloud" and make them playable from any device. That's all nice and everything, but is there any way to simply put a couple songs into my device locally without any of that funny business?
TL;DR: I don't want to use Music Manager, how do I locally upload a song/video to my Nexus 7?<issue_comment>username_1: Copy the files as before but use a music player from the play store. I would suggest a player that supports folder based play so it doesn't force you to sort your music by album/artist, which can be a pain if your music isn't tagged properly. I will not suggest you a particular music player because I don't want to turn this question in to a favorite music player discussion.
If you really have trouble finding one, post a comment here for a suggestion.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Android uses a so-called *Media Scanner* to index your media files (this also applies to your images and videos). This *Media Scanner* ships with the system, and fires automatically on certain system events -- such as after boot, or when you insert your SD-Card. It does, however, not react on a simple "file-drop" via network. For such cases, it might need a little help to get to know it has to act:
* [Rescan Media](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.addz.mediascanner)
* [Rescan SD Card!](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.uberullu.rescansd)
Are two free example apps from the playstore which do exactly that: trigger the *Media Scanner*. Once the *Media Scanner* has indexed your new files, they will immediately show up in the corresponding apps such as the gallery (for images/videos) or your music player.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: i usually put all my songs into a folder and zip it into a smaller archive with an easy short name. something like mp3files.zip
move that folder( or a copy of it) to /android-sdk/platform-tools/
plug the nexus in with a good usb cable and go to settings/developer options set to "usb debug enabled"
next i use # ./adb push home/android-sdk/platform-tools/mp3files.zip /sdcard/Music
important to notice one space between path to file and path to destination also make sure your capitalization is correct
while ./adb is moving your files you wont get any feedback that anything is happening until its finished so be calm and find something else to do
i also use the vlc for android beta media player availible from the vlc developers forum--it works PERFECTLY its still a beta .but its not so much a hiccuped EVER for me and plays whatever i throw at it(im not associated with the project in any way i just am passing along some info i have found)
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: My main use of Android MP3 files is to listen to podcasts. My workflow is as follows:
1. Use Google Reader to subscribe to and browse podcast feeds. The MP3 files are linked in each feed, so the ones I decide to listen to get downloaded to my computer. I use DownThemAll for downloading, because it's good at this kind of download and because it preserves modification times on files it downloads. However, I'm moving away from Firefox, so I'm now looking for a similar plugin for Chrome.
2. Periodically plug my phone into a USB port on my computer (use USB3 if you have it, absurdly fast), causing the SD card to be mounted as a removable disk. There's a directory, `listen` that contains all my podcasts.
3. Since I listen to them in the order of the modification times, I sort the directory listing by mod times and delete all the ones I've listened to.
4. I move all of my new downloaded files into the `listen` directory on my phone.
5. I tell Windows Explorer to "eject" the removable drive (this ensures that all file writes are completed) and unplug the phone.
6. I plug in my headphones and run [MortPlayer Audio Books](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.stohelit.audiobookplayer&feature=more_from_developer#?t=W251bGwsMSwxLDEwMiwiZGUuc3RvaGVsaXQuYXVkaW9ib29rcGxheWVyIl0.). Although not specifically designed for my use case, it has some features I need:
* The ability to be pointed at any directory I want.
* The ability to automatically sort my files by modification time.
* The ability to automatically remember where I left off.
Obviously, the way I listen to MP3 files is different from the way most other people do, so you'll need to figure out your own workflow. In particular, you'll probably want a different audio player program. But judging from your prescribed needs, you want one that lets you just copy files directly into an SDCARD directory. Most do.
Ideally, one could use Bluetooth to copy files. I've tried that, but have found that Bluetooth copying software is slow, a pain to use, and doesn't preserve file mod times.
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/09/05 | 1,385 | 5,443 | <issue_start>username_0: Naive question, but when I check the specs of a phone, one website says phone has feature X, the other says it does not have this feature. Here I am interested in the ambient light sensor.
What does it look like, and where it is usually placed?
**For example**, [GSM Arena review says](http://www.gsmarena.com/htc_one_v-review-750p2.php) the HTC One V has an ambient light sensor: "Above the display is the earpiece alongside some hidden proximity and ambient light sensors." The photo:

For comparison the text says I should see the proximity sensor too. On my Galaxy Ace 2 it looks like 2 mini cameras, it is hard to miss, and on that picture I don't see anything like that. Of course maybe HTC hid that all so well.
Anyway, I would like to know what I am looking for, thus the question -- **What does the ambient light sensor look like?**<issue_comment>username_1: Copy the files as before but use a music player from the play store. I would suggest a player that supports folder based play so it doesn't force you to sort your music by album/artist, which can be a pain if your music isn't tagged properly. I will not suggest you a particular music player because I don't want to turn this question in to a favorite music player discussion.
If you really have trouble finding one, post a comment here for a suggestion.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: Android uses a so-called *Media Scanner* to index your media files (this also applies to your images and videos). This *Media Scanner* ships with the system, and fires automatically on certain system events -- such as after boot, or when you insert your SD-Card. It does, however, not react on a simple "file-drop" via network. For such cases, it might need a little help to get to know it has to act:
* [Rescan Media](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.addz.mediascanner)
* [Rescan SD Card!](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.uberullu.rescansd)
Are two free example apps from the playstore which do exactly that: trigger the *Media Scanner*. Once the *Media Scanner* has indexed your new files, they will immediately show up in the corresponding apps such as the gallery (for images/videos) or your music player.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: i usually put all my songs into a folder and zip it into a smaller archive with an easy short name. something like mp3files.zip
move that folder( or a copy of it) to /android-sdk/platform-tools/
plug the nexus in with a good usb cable and go to settings/developer options set to "usb debug enabled"
next i use # ./adb push home/android-sdk/platform-tools/mp3files.zip /sdcard/Music
important to notice one space between path to file and path to destination also make sure your capitalization is correct
while ./adb is moving your files you wont get any feedback that anything is happening until its finished so be calm and find something else to do
i also use the vlc for android beta media player availible from the vlc developers forum--it works PERFECTLY its still a beta .but its not so much a hiccuped EVER for me and plays whatever i throw at it(im not associated with the project in any way i just am passing along some info i have found)
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_4: My main use of Android MP3 files is to listen to podcasts. My workflow is as follows:
1. Use Google Reader to subscribe to and browse podcast feeds. The MP3 files are linked in each feed, so the ones I decide to listen to get downloaded to my computer. I use DownThemAll for downloading, because it's good at this kind of download and because it preserves modification times on files it downloads. However, I'm moving away from Firefox, so I'm now looking for a similar plugin for Chrome.
2. Periodically plug my phone into a USB port on my computer (use USB3 if you have it, absurdly fast), causing the SD card to be mounted as a removable disk. There's a directory, `listen` that contains all my podcasts.
3. Since I listen to them in the order of the modification times, I sort the directory listing by mod times and delete all the ones I've listened to.
4. I move all of my new downloaded files into the `listen` directory on my phone.
5. I tell Windows Explorer to "eject" the removable drive (this ensures that all file writes are completed) and unplug the phone.
6. I plug in my headphones and run [MortPlayer Audio Books](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.stohelit.audiobookplayer&feature=more_from_developer#?t=W251bGwsMSwxLDEwMiwiZGUuc3RvaGVsaXQuYXVkaW9ib29rcGxheWVyIl0.). Although not specifically designed for my use case, it has some features I need:
* The ability to be pointed at any directory I want.
* The ability to automatically sort my files by modification time.
* The ability to automatically remember where I left off.
Obviously, the way I listen to MP3 files is different from the way most other people do, so you'll need to figure out your own workflow. In particular, you'll probably want a different audio player program. But judging from your prescribed needs, you want one that lets you just copy files directly into an SDCARD directory. Most do.
Ideally, one could use Bluetooth to copy files. I've tried that, but have found that Bluetooth copying software is slow, a pain to use, and doesn't preserve file mod times.
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/09/05 | 514 | 2,076 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Droid RAZR MAXX, and there are a few shortcuts to web pages on the screen. They have been there since before the phone got ICS.
Under GB one could long tap the screen, add a shortcut, and choose a web site rather than an app. This created a shortcut with the name of the site, and the icon looked like a screen capture of the URL that the shortcut targets (like the chrome new tab page).
However in ICS I can't see way to do it, I can add a bookmark to the home screen through the browser, but the icon is different. I tried adding a bookmark through each browser, chrome, default, firefox, opera, dolphin. None of them produce this icon.
Anyone know how to do it? Or is this something that Moto threw in to the software, but didn't keep in ICS? (Though in that case why do the old icons still work?).<issue_comment>username_1: Can't see how to get an individual bookmark with a thumbnail screenshot of the webpage, but there are a couple of similar things you can do with the default browser in ICS.

In the screenshot above the top row are bookmarks added to the home screen by going into the browser, opening the bookmarks list, long pressing on a bookmark and selecting "Add to Home Screen". These appear to be the using the site's "Favicon".
The next two rows are the "3x2 Bookmarks" widget, that just lists the contents of my browser's bookmarks folder. Add that by opening your apps list, selecting the Widgets tab at the top and then long pressing to drag the "3x2 Bookmarks" widget to a home screen. It then gives you a chance to pick a folder in your Bookmarks to show (you could create a new folder in bookmarks beforehand and fill that folder with only web pages that you want to show on your home screen).
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You could also try [Visual Bookmarks](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=kent.android.imgbookmarks), although some users have found that it no longer works for them. YMMV.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/09/05 | 579 | 1,934 | <issue_start>username_0: Where are the official release notes for Cyanogenmod, in particular the 9.1 release? I wasn't able to find them.<issue_comment>username_1: Did you check with the [official changelog site](http://changelog.bbqdroid.org/)? Or the [XDA thread on 9.1](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1858815)? The latter mentions <http://cm-kang.appspot.com/anzu/ics> for the changelog. And then there's [this page](http://cm9log.appspot.com/?device=galaxysmtd) where you even can filter changes by devices (probably the best source to check).
If you need more details: All that from page 1 of a simple Google search for [cyanogenmod changelog "9.1"](http://www.google.de/search?q=cyanogenmod+changelog+%229.1%22) (<- hint! ;) )
To the first (and explicit) question: If there were any new features? That probably very much depends on your device. So using the last changelog source I mentioned, filtering by the device you want to know this about, you will be able to answer your question. As I don't know your device, I can't ;)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Edit: OP has rephrased his Question
A good start is also the [CyanogenMod blog](http://www.cyanogenmod.com/blog)
For CM9.1 it's:
A new NFC payment system, SimplyTapp has been added:
>
> **Let’s try something new: CM9.1 and SimplyTapp:**
>
>
> Welcome to Tapp! A near field communication (NFC) payment platform for the CyanogenMod community and powered by SimplyTapp. Founded by two CM enthusiasts, Doug and Ted, Simplytapp provides a method for evolving, securing and expanding NFC payments.
>
>
>
See CyanogenMod's [blog post](http://www.cyanogenmod.com/blog/cyanogenmod9-1-and-simplytapp) for more info.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: A condensed changelog containing only "notable new features" can be accessed from within Cyanogenmod via the settings menu -> about phone -> view changelog.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/09/05 | 513 | 1,990 | <issue_start>username_0: >
> **Possible Duplicate:**
>
> [How do I switch my Android device's SD card without causing problems?](https://android.stackexchange.com/questions/17402/how-do-i-switch-my-android-devices-sd-card-without-causing-problems)
>
>
>
I just moved to Android from iOS. My new droid is <NAME> Xperia Neo V which came with a 2GB SD card. This card is almost full so I want to get a bigger and faster SD card. I have installed many apps on this SD card so I'm wondering how I can move all the content of the old card to the new one when I finally purchase it. How do I do this?<issue_comment>username_1: It's very simple, just connect your phone via USB to your PC and copy all folders from your old SD card to a temporary folder on your PC. Then disconnect and eject your old card and insert your new SD card into phone and again connect phone to PC and Copy-Paste all contents back from the temporary folder to your new SD card, and disconnect phone when finished.
P.S: if you refer to potential duplicates below your answer, there is more perfect and better answers!!!
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: As the solution described by *username_1* basically works, it might miss some data -- e.g. if you have moved some apps to SD card using *App2SD*, you might miss them afterwards. So a much safer approach is:
1. shut down your device
2. take out the SDCard
3. put the SDCard into a card reader, and attach this card reader to your PC
4. make sure all files are visible in your "copy GUI" (which ever you use)
5. copy all files and directories, including hidden ones, into an empty folder on your computer
6. safely unmount the card, and replace it by the new one
7. same way, copy all data (including hidden files/directories) to the new card
8. safely unmount that card, and place it back into your device
9. power up the device, you are done
This way you can make sure no files/directories have been hidden from you.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2012/09/06 | 1,091 | 4,148 | <issue_start>username_0: The vibrate strength of my Galaxy Nexus is incredibly weak. When I have the phone in my pocket I simply don’t feel the vibrate for incoming calls at all, which defeats its purpose. I’ve missed more than one important phone call due to that.
Is there a way to increase the strength? I haven’t found anything relevant in the settings.<issue_comment>username_1: No easy way - you'll need to install a custom kernel like GLaDOS or Trinity kernel and the relevant apps for each kernel from the Play Store to adjust settings - one of which will be the vibration intensity.
Check out the relevant threads at XDA.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: AFAIK, the vibrator motor that are used in the phones are called Q-Coin motor as they are in a shape of a coin. They are of permanent magnet type accepting two leads for positive and negative DC voltages. The circuitry that operate this motor just can switch on the motor for a specific period of time and can change its rotation direction. All other parameters of vibration are set by motor's design.
Hence, for your need the amplitude of the vibrator motor has to be increased to make you aware. And unless the motor itself is replaced, this can't be done in my opinion.
This is a [specification](http://www.vibratormotor.com/acrobat/c0834b011f.pdf) of such a motor and you can see it's details.
**UPDATE:**
After searching Google, I stumbled on more info about these motors. With that information, it seems that there are two types of such motors. One being fitted with an eccentric [rotating mass](http://www.precisionmicrodrives.com/application-notes-technical-guides/application-bulletins/ab-004-understanding-erm-characteristics-for-vibration-applications) and another being a [linear actuator](http://www.precisionmicrodrives.com/application-notes-technical-guides/application-bulletins/ab-020-understanding-linear-resonant-actuator-characteristics) (working more like a speaker). The article about linear actuator says that this is the present trend and beautifully explains how the motor works.
If the Nexus device that is in question is vibrating at its maximum amplitude, then there is no way any software component to increase its amplitude. Other way, if device is NOT vibrating at its maximum, then by increasing the applied voltage there is a possibility to increase the amplitude.
Thanks to @username_4 who made me to know more about this motor.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: Just install - [Contact Vibrate](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=ac.vibration)
From the description:
>
> Set a different vibration for each of your contacts and know who is it.
>
>
> *Set a different a vibration for each of your contacts*
>
>
> Know who is calling or texting you, just feeling it !
>
> When you receive a phone call or a text message (SMS or MMS) Contact Vibrate will respond vibrating differently for every contact you have defined. If this particular number or contact has no vibration set a master vibration will be called by default.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_4: This seems to be fixed in more recent versions of the Android operating system – it’s hard to quantify but it appears that with the update to 4.2.1 the Galaxy Nexus saw a substantial increase in vibrate strength.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: On my Samsung S6 there is "*Settings >> Sound and Vibration >> Vibration intensity*" section. Where one can change vibration intensity for calls, notifications, and feedback individually.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rsBob.jpg)
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_6: AFAIK, It's not easy to change the vibration motor in the phone. The vibration motor used in your phone called coin type vibration motor. The G force for this motor is very low. If you want to enlarge the vibration, you can use an [LRA](https://www.vibrationmotors.com/linear-vibration-motor-introduction/) for replacement,which is also called [linear vibration motor](https://www.vibrationmotors.com/product-catalogue/linear-resonant-actuators/)
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/09/06 | 1,162 | 3,845 | <issue_start>username_0: Since [aLogcat](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.jtb.alogcat) now [no longer works with Jelly Bean](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/28848/4229), how can I access the system log files on my device without either root access or attaching it to a computer?
I [have tried](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/28853/4229) using `adb logcat` from my PC and that worked fine, so I know that plenty of messages are being logged.
Using `logcat` from [Android Terminal Emulator](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=jackpal.androidterm&hl=en) on my Nexus 7 shows almost no output though and `adb logcat` from *Android Terminal Emulator*, starts the daemon but then just says `- waiting for device -` and nothing more appears.
So, is it possible to access android log files on my Nexus 7 **without root access**?<issue_comment>username_1: No, for security reasons it is not possible to access android log files on the Nexus 7 (or any other device running Jelly Bean or higher) without root access. Google changed that with Jelly Bean.
I'd suggest you wait until logcat readers like aLogCat and such get fixed (i.e. they will require root access to show all logs then).
From [AISEC-TR-2012-001-Android-OS-Security.pdf - 3.3 Android Permission Model](http://www.aisec.fraunhofer.de/content/dam/aisec/Dokumente/Publikationen/Studien_TechReports/deutsch/AISEC-TR-2012-001-Android-OS-Security.pdf):
>
> The READ\_LOGS permission can substitute the following on many devices,
> depending on the Android version and thus the standard apps’ versions
> installed:
>
>
> * READ\_CONTACTS
> * GET\_TASKS – every started Activity is listed in the system’s logs
> * READ\_HISTORY\_BOOKMARKS – opening new web pages is a browser Activity and thus logged
> * READ\_SMS
>
>
>
**All solutions below require root access**:
You need to either run logcat as root in a shell or manually grant it via the shell pm command (root required) works also (see [XDA](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1793465%EF%BB%BF), exchange *org.jtb.alogcat.donate* with the app's pkg name):
`pm grant org.jtb.alogcat.donate android.permission.READ_LOGS`
This is for the lazy ones and **not** suggested:
If you're desperate, careless and lazy, you can fix it by giving every app the READ\_LOGS permission by applying this ugly and **insecure** hack ([Chainfire via twitter](https://twitter.com/ChainfireXDA/status/237078791804051456)):
`chmod 04755 /system/bin/logcat`
To quote CyanogenMod developer <NAME>'s G+ [post](https://plus.google.com/103583939320326217147/posts/2Yb5wgrx5ib):
>
> Did the Android Log permissions/behavior change in JellyBean?
>
>
> It seems that if an application runs "logcat" now, it can see only the log entries created by its UID. Log lines from other UIDs are not shown. Basically, it seems to be filtered now.
>
>
> I have the same permissions as usual. Also confirmed the same thing is happening in other log collector apps.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I'm confused by this though it would explain some things.
Running the same app on my nexus7 and my galaxy nexus, both on jellybean, the phone sees log output from all apps, the tablet doesn't. This would say that it's not jellybean its the nexus7. Backing this up, I've just checked and they both have different kernels. The tablet, with a newer one.
Maybe its the updated kernel that, means logs don't appear.
Guess I'll have to root after all: (
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I have developed [a Logcat app](https://github.com/tananaev/rootless-logcat) that uses alternative approach. It utilizes remote debugging feature. You need to enable it on the phone first, but it has to be done only once and then you can use the app to retrieve all logs.
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/09/06 | 1,222 | 3,925 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a rooted HTC Hero, and what I want to do is to enable the adbd
to listen to a port at boot time.
I tried some code found [here](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=635102):
```
setprop service.adb.tcp.port 5555
stop adbd
start adbd
```
in an Android shell and it works great.
I tried to change the **init.rc** file. I added the above code in init.rc
and I replaced it with the original file, through these commands:
```
adb push init.rc sdcard
adb shell
adb su
mount -o rw,remount -t yaffs2 /dev/block/mtdblock3 /
adb cp sdcard/init.rc /
```
The file is replaced successfully, but when I reboot my phone and try to connect
through:
```
adb connect :5555
```
the connection is not being established.
Any ideas?
(PS. I don't want to use the [remoteADB](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jaja.remoteadb&hl=en) application and a shell command like
`am start -n ...`
)<issue_comment>username_1: No, for security reasons it is not possible to access android log files on the Nexus 7 (or any other device running Jelly Bean or higher) without root access. Google changed that with Jelly Bean.
I'd suggest you wait until logcat readers like aLogCat and such get fixed (i.e. they will require root access to show all logs then).
From [AISEC-TR-2012-001-Android-OS-Security.pdf - 3.3 Android Permission Model](http://www.aisec.fraunhofer.de/content/dam/aisec/Dokumente/Publikationen/Studien_TechReports/deutsch/AISEC-TR-2012-001-Android-OS-Security.pdf):
>
> The READ\_LOGS permission can substitute the following on many devices,
> depending on the Android version and thus the standard apps’ versions
> installed:
>
>
> * READ\_CONTACTS
> * GET\_TASKS – every started Activity is listed in the system’s logs
> * READ\_HISTORY\_BOOKMARKS – opening new web pages is a browser Activity and thus logged
> * READ\_SMS
>
>
>
**All solutions below require root access**:
You need to either run logcat as root in a shell or manually grant it via the shell pm command (root required) works also (see [XDA](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1793465%EF%BB%BF), exchange *org.jtb.alogcat.donate* with the app's pkg name):
`pm grant org.jtb.alogcat.donate android.permission.READ_LOGS`
This is for the lazy ones and **not** suggested:
If you're desperate, careless and lazy, you can fix it by giving every app the READ\_LOGS permission by applying this ugly and **insecure** hack ([Chainfire via twitter](https://twitter.com/ChainfireXDA/status/237078791804051456)):
`chmod 04755 /system/bin/logcat`
To quote CyanogenMod developer <NAME>'s G+ [post](https://plus.google.com/103583939320326217147/posts/2Yb5wgrx5ib):
>
> Did the Android Log permissions/behavior change in JellyBean?
>
>
> It seems that if an application runs "logcat" now, it can see only the log entries created by its UID. Log lines from other UIDs are not shown. Basically, it seems to be filtered now.
>
>
> I have the same permissions as usual. Also confirmed the same thing is happening in other log collector apps.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I'm confused by this though it would explain some things.
Running the same app on my nexus7 and my galaxy nexus, both on jellybean, the phone sees log output from all apps, the tablet doesn't. This would say that it's not jellybean its the nexus7. Backing this up, I've just checked and they both have different kernels. The tablet, with a newer one.
Maybe its the updated kernel that, means logs don't appear.
Guess I'll have to root after all: (
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I have developed [a Logcat app](https://github.com/tananaev/rootless-logcat) that uses alternative approach. It utilizes remote debugging feature. You need to enable it on the phone first, but it has to be done only once and then you can use the app to retrieve all logs.
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/09/06 | 1,111 | 3,726 | <issue_start>username_0: There is AirDroid, but it is
1. Focused on contacts/messages/files, not on settings
2. Too Web 2.0-ish, not easy to script
I want a simple tool to build my own solution with instead of mis-using some user-oriented application. It should listen some HTTP port and allow
* to turn on/off wifi,
* take photos,
* pause/resume music,
* adjust volume
* adjust brightness
* (and so on)
without any bells and whistles, so I can control the device using simple requests like `curl http://localhost:8080/wifi/on` or `curl http://localhost:8080/music/pause`.
/\* Actually I want good and easy android control from Linux command line tools, but remote HTTP control tools seem more likely to exist, so asking about them \*/<issue_comment>username_1: No, for security reasons it is not possible to access android log files on the Nexus 7 (or any other device running Jelly Bean or higher) without root access. Google changed that with Jelly Bean.
I'd suggest you wait until logcat readers like aLogCat and such get fixed (i.e. they will require root access to show all logs then).
From [AISEC-TR-2012-001-Android-OS-Security.pdf - 3.3 Android Permission Model](http://www.aisec.fraunhofer.de/content/dam/aisec/Dokumente/Publikationen/Studien_TechReports/deutsch/AISEC-TR-2012-001-Android-OS-Security.pdf):
>
> The READ\_LOGS permission can substitute the following on many devices,
> depending on the Android version and thus the standard apps’ versions
> installed:
>
>
> * READ\_CONTACTS
> * GET\_TASKS – every started Activity is listed in the system’s logs
> * READ\_HISTORY\_BOOKMARKS – opening new web pages is a browser Activity and thus logged
> * READ\_SMS
>
>
>
**All solutions below require root access**:
You need to either run logcat as root in a shell or manually grant it via the shell pm command (root required) works also (see [XDA](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1793465%EF%BB%BF), exchange *org.jtb.alogcat.donate* with the app's pkg name):
`pm grant org.jtb.alogcat.donate android.permission.READ_LOGS`
This is for the lazy ones and **not** suggested:
If you're desperate, careless and lazy, you can fix it by giving every app the READ\_LOGS permission by applying this ugly and **insecure** hack ([Chainfire via twitter](https://twitter.com/ChainfireXDA/status/237078791804051456)):
`chmod 04755 /system/bin/logcat`
To quote CyanogenMod developer <NAME>'s G+ [post](https://plus.google.com/103583939320326217147/posts/2Yb5wgrx5ib):
>
> Did the Android Log permissions/behavior change in JellyBean?
>
>
> It seems that if an application runs "logcat" now, it can see only the log entries created by its UID. Log lines from other UIDs are not shown. Basically, it seems to be filtered now.
>
>
> I have the same permissions as usual. Also confirmed the same thing is happening in other log collector apps.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I'm confused by this though it would explain some things.
Running the same app on my nexus7 and my galaxy nexus, both on jellybean, the phone sees log output from all apps, the tablet doesn't. This would say that it's not jellybean its the nexus7. Backing this up, I've just checked and they both have different kernels. The tablet, with a newer one.
Maybe its the updated kernel that, means logs don't appear.
Guess I'll have to root after all: (
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: I have developed [a Logcat app](https://github.com/tananaev/rootless-logcat) that uses alternative approach. It utilizes remote debugging feature. You need to enable it on the phone first, but it has to be done only once and then you can use the app to retrieve all logs.
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/09/06 | 601 | 2,437 | <issue_start>username_0: I deleted my only launcher and now I cannot open settings to set to debug mode in order to use ADB or similar to install a new launcher. I can't open the Play store, can't open anything except those that use voice commands: e-mail, text, phone, maps, navigation, and note to self.
Oh, and it only boots in safe mode.
It's an LG Optimus T.
How do I put a launcher back on this phone?<issue_comment>username_1: I figured this out only after months of being without most of my phone's functionality and taking it to a 3rd-party repair place that declared it "unrepairable".
It is stupidly easy:
1. Download an apk of your home launcher (I got one from here: <http://forum.xda-developers.com/archive/index.php/t-1125331.html> )
2. E-mail it to yourself
3. Use voice commands to send yourself a test e-mail. If you don't have gmail set up, then it will give you the screens you need for configuration.
4. E-mail the apk to yourself. When you check your gmail on your phone you should see an "install" button next to the attachment name. Install it and enjoy your new old phone.
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Go into Recovery Mode (try turning off the phone and do not turn it on but press and hold the home button the volume up button and then hold the power button along with it). You need to do a Factory Reset from there and then reboot the phone.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: Push and install a launcher app to your Android device from <http://play.google.com> (PC).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: Download the Launcher .apk file (just Google your "demand launcher name" and plus "apk"), save it to your friend's phone, and send it to your phone via Bluetooth. After you recieve the .apk file just click whatever option that directs you to INSTALL the file. If Bluetooth is off, ask your friend to call your phone; when the dialer window pops up you can see a "make another call" button. Click it and you will see the shortcut bar for Bluetooth appear.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: if your android has search button then you are lucky first hard reset your android(learn how to hard reset your mobile) after the mobile started running hit search button and search the app 'settings' then turn bluetooth on and select discoverable or visible then share any launcher (like smart launcher) from other android to your mobile then install it and enjoy
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/06 | 1,013 | 3,810 | <issue_start>username_0: I have three devices:
1. Tablet running Android 2.2; (WPAD)
2. Tablet running Android ICS; (Samsung Tab 2)
3. A laptop. (Dell Studio 1558)
4. Wirelss Router: WRT120N (Linksys)
Wireless Router access is protected with WPA/WPA2 PSK. I can confirm that password given is correct.
My laptop (3) and Android ICS tablet (2), both connect fine to the wireless router.
But my other tablet (1) doesn't connect, it keeps "Scanning" and then disconnects. This tablet used to connect to router earlier, but now it does not. I have also observed that after a few seconds the wirless network is shown as "Not in Range, secured with WPA/WPA2 PSK" and then comes back with message "Remembered, secured with WPA/WPA2 PSK". So I am also not sure whether it is the problem with the tab!
Android ICS (2) is my new Samsung tab 2 tablet, so I have no idea whether this is caused due to new connection or not? To ascertain this, I have tried connecting only the first tablet (1), but still not working :(
The wireless router is connected to ADSL router provided by service provider. The ADSL router settings are password protected, i.e I cannot view ADSL router settings through web browswer.
Any thoughts on what could be causing the tablet to be losing the connection?<issue_comment>username_1: many Android 2.2 users report the same issue1. I'd recommend trying:
* Delete the network from known list and then reconnect
AND/OR
* Set a static IP address for your 2.2 device: wifi settings -> menu -> advanced -> use static IP (depending on your network config, submask to use: 255.255.255.0, default gateway (router IP): 192.168.1.1) to something like 192.168.1.200
--
1See the original authors:
<http://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/mobile/bbo7Y3CPOn8%5B1-25%5D>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I have resolved this issue myself. Here is what I did to resolve it:
1. Accessed wireless router's settings. Please remember I do not have access to ADSL router which is connected to the internet.
2. The linksys wireless router setting has "Wireless" menu. Under this menu, click on "Wireless MAC Filter".
3. Click on "Enabled" radio button.
4. Click on "Prevent listed computers from accessing the wireless network" radio button. I saw a list of MAC addressed in this list. One of the MAC addresses was that of the tablet which was not connecting. I removed this from this list and VOILA!!!! my tab was happy :)
(I still don't know how it got into this list!!)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Someone with access to that router may have accessed it through the internet just as you did and set up the MAC filtering. You have to manually enter every MAC address of every device that is running on your network in order to block just one MAC address or multiple addresses. Then you have to set what MAC address to block and save those settings just as you did to unblock your MAC address on that specific device.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I have encountered this problem twice, once with my HTC Flyer, originally with Android OS 2.3, but somehow after I updated OS to Gingerbread the problem's gone.
Second happened with my Google Nexus i515, running OS 4.04. Tried everything until i clicked Settings -> System -> Change wifi regulatory domain, and chose EMEA and Rest of World (the other options were US & Japan which weren't where I'm located) wifi settings resetted & problem's solved.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: My Nexus 10 recently stopped connecting to the internet via WiFi after it had been connecting for 3 months. I simply rebooted off my wireless router by removing the power for 30-60 seconds and then powering up. Once the router rebooted, presto, my Nexus 10 was once again connected to the wireless network and the Internet.
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/09/06 | 762 | 2,862 | <issue_start>username_0: I want to root my new Teac TC-7120 device, but couldn't find any rooting guide targeting it.
What should I do?
I used the following Guide:
<http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/root-android-phone-superoneclick-2/>
But even though my device is connected and in Debugging mode, I can't get the ADB to recognize it.<issue_comment>username_1: many Android 2.2 users report the same issue1. I'd recommend trying:
* Delete the network from known list and then reconnect
AND/OR
* Set a static IP address for your 2.2 device: wifi settings -> menu -> advanced -> use static IP (depending on your network config, submask to use: 255.255.255.0, default gateway (router IP): 192.168.1.1) to something like 192.168.1.200
--
1See the original authors:
<http://productforums.google.com/forum/#!topic/mobile/bbo7Y3CPOn8%5B1-25%5D>
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I have resolved this issue myself. Here is what I did to resolve it:
1. Accessed wireless router's settings. Please remember I do not have access to ADSL router which is connected to the internet.
2. The linksys wireless router setting has "Wireless" menu. Under this menu, click on "Wireless MAC Filter".
3. Click on "Enabled" radio button.
4. Click on "Prevent listed computers from accessing the wireless network" radio button. I saw a list of MAC addressed in this list. One of the MAC addresses was that of the tablet which was not connecting. I removed this from this list and VOILA!!!! my tab was happy :)
(I still don't know how it got into this list!!)
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Someone with access to that router may have accessed it through the internet just as you did and set up the MAC filtering. You have to manually enter every MAC address of every device that is running on your network in order to block just one MAC address or multiple addresses. Then you have to set what MAC address to block and save those settings just as you did to unblock your MAC address on that specific device.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: I have encountered this problem twice, once with my HTC Flyer, originally with Android OS 2.3, but somehow after I updated OS to Gingerbread the problem's gone.
Second happened with my Google Nexus i515, running OS 4.04. Tried everything until i clicked Settings -> System -> Change wifi regulatory domain, and chose EMEA and Rest of World (the other options were US & Japan which weren't where I'm located) wifi settings resetted & problem's solved.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_5: My Nexus 10 recently stopped connecting to the internet via WiFi after it had been connecting for 3 months. I simply rebooted off my wireless router by removing the power for 30-60 seconds and then powering up. Once the router rebooted, presto, my Nexus 10 was once again connected to the wireless network and the Internet.
Upvotes: 1 |
2012/09/06 | 725 | 2,845 | <issue_start>username_0: Splitting this question from the comments to [my answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/28875/14080) to [How to install ClockworkMOD Recovery on Sony Xperia Neo V (MT11a)?](https://android.stackexchange.com/q/28664/14080)
>
> Erik, one last thing. I accidentally made an extra backup which didn't even complete because my SD is full, how do I delete that backup, or any other previously done backup using CWR?
>
>
><issue_comment>username_1: Clockworkmod stores Nandroid backups in `/clockworkmod/backup` on the SD card. Each subfolder contains one backup and is named with the date and time you created it. This is the same information that you see in CWM's restore menu. You can remove them from within Android with any file manager or from your PC while you have your phone attached via USB.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: Clockworkmod stores its backups in `/sdcard/clockworkmod/backup` (replace `/sdcard` with the path for your external card if you're looking for backups to external memory). With versions prior to 6.0, you can move off (or delete) the entire directory to clear space. The entire backup is self-contained.
If you're using a 6.0 or greater version of Clockworkmod, this is no longer the case. The information about the backup is still in `/sdcard/clockworkmod/backup`, but the actual data is now stored in `/sdcard/clockworkmod/blobs` and is deduplicated between backups. The upside is that this should save some space between multiple backups. The downside is you can't just move off or delete a backup directory. With 6.0+, you now have to delete that folder, and then run the "free space" option. Initiating a new backup will automatically free space.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: If you are using a version newer than 6.0 I'd recommend you use the delete backup function in CWM.
It's in backup and restore -> delete (and delete from external SD).
Doing this will ensure that you don't delete a blob that is being used in another backup, as all backups now share the same blob directory.
After deleting from either place use the function recover free space from that same menú to delete the unused blobs
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: you can't remove them with your pc -- they are write-protected. it only works if they're on the external SD.
Upvotes: -1 <issue_comment>username_5: I had this idea: If you have CWM installed, you can delete (and make) the backup through the recovery mode. Go into recovery mode and select
- backup and restore
- delete from /sdcard
then select the backup to delete
done!
You also can do the backup through the recovery mode and ...
there is an option backup to /storage/sdcard1 - I bet this will do the backup into the external SD Card. I haven't tried it, but i'm pretty sure it will do it.
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/09/06 | 477 | 1,863 | <issue_start>username_0: I know it's been asked here how to prevent applications from using data connections. But that is not my intent. I have a Galaxy Nexus running Jelly Bean 4.1.1 and I would like to restrict most of applications to use my data connection. But would allow some to use it.
For instance I would like to restrict Currents, Google+, Facebook, Maps and Google Now from using my data connection. But I would like GMail and Talk to use it.
How can I do this? And is it also possible to set sync frequency when wither on Wifi or Data connection?<issue_comment>username_1: Go into `Settings | Data usage`. Then in the `Mobile` tab, you'll find a list of the applications that have recently used data.
Click on any of these applications and there will be a checkbox to **restrict background data** while the phone is using a mobile connection (as opposed to wifi).
I'm not aware of a way to control the sync frequency.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Im also looking for a similar app.
I will try [Root Firewall](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.rootuninstaller.firewall).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: To sync frequency go to Settings - under Applications - email - manage accounts - tap on the account you want to sync - sync settings - sync schedule - set sync schedule. This works on my Galaxy S5
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_4: NetGuard is an app that does what you're looking for. It allows you to selectively block everything/anything from data/wifi. It's also 100% free and open-source, so you don't have to worry about ads/malware.
The [F-Droid version](https://f-droid.org/repository/browse/?fdid=eu.faircode.netguard) has significantly more features than the less-powerful [Google Play variant.](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=eu.faircode.netguard&hl=en)
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/09/06 | 1,443 | 6,103 | <issue_start>username_0: I guess this has to do with our habit on desktop computers where we
1. open an application
2. use it
3. close the application
AFAIK there's no direct way from within the application to close it. And by pressing the Home button app just gets into the background. Still running.
I got a habit of pressing Home, then Recent apps and flicking all open apps out.
Is this a bad habit? Should I leave applications like GMail, FB, Currents, GNow, etc. running or is it better to close them and have as less apps as possible running?<issue_comment>username_1: As far as I understand, Android is supposed to look after this itself. Many apps have services that run almost separately from the visible part as well and part of the lifecycle of Android apps is that the OS can indeed choose to close threads down as it sees fit.
But buried in the docs so well I don't remember quite where it is is the information that "Back"ing out of an app will tend to shut it down rather than if you just go "Home". Graphics-intensive apps like 'Angry Birds' should be closed like this, in fact, because the app gets the opportunity to shutdown processor-intensive threads properly.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: From a developers point of view (my point of view):
Application's on Android work a specific way, they all have their own life cycle, the main ones we are talking about here is when the application is paused, or stopped (onPause, onStop) and when the application is destroyed (onDestroy), these two states are brought to light in different ways, onPause is when the user can no longer see the application, or screen, this is when the user presses home or clicks something on the screen that takes them to another screen, like pressing a link for example, there is still a possibility of you needing this screen, for example when you press the back button to get back to the screen, you still want it in the same state, so the application is still open and waiting for you to return.
The other state, when the application is destroyed, can happen three ways, firstly the developer might of added something in to close the application automatically, for example the Endomondo application you can press menu > exit, this will "close" the application and it will no longer be in memory. The next way is the user pressing back on it, as in there is no way to get back to the exact screen (for example you can't press forward to get to it) so the application is no longer needed so it is closed.
The third way that an application is destroyed, or closed, is when Android needs more memory, when this happens it clears the applications that haven't had interaction the longest. Android does this itself, if it needs more memory it will get it.
So in all leaving applications open isn't a bad happen, however some applications can still use a lot of CPU power and not memory when its in the background, if you think this is going to happen you should close it yourself, android should be able to pick up on this however
Have a look here at the states of a activity, or a screen:

---
EDIT:
* Pressing back on a screen: Activity destroyed (`onPause > onStop >
onDestroy`)
* Swiping application away on recent apps: Activity
destroyed (`onPause > onStop > onDestroy`)
* Pressing home: Application
kept in memory, only if the developer hasn't added a self close
feature (`onPause > onStop`)
* Navigating away from app, link etc:
Application kept in memory, as above (`onPause > onStop`)
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: This is not technically *better*. One of the main characteristics of Android is to simulate [multitasking](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multitasking). When you switches the application to another (yeah, even the Home launcher is an application), Android *pauses* the current [activity](http://developer.android.com/reference/android/app/Activity.html) and tries to load the data of the next into memory. So, two things can happen here:
* If there's enough free memory, the data is loaded and the new activity is started. In this scenario, there's no trouble to switch back to the last application, since it's already running;
* If there's a lack of memory, Android have to "backup" the data of the current activity into internal storage. This has a cost and a delay; after doing that, Android can finally load the new activity into memory.
From a performance point of view, keeping as much data as you can on RAM memory is benefic. The fact that an app data is still on memory *doesn't mean* it's consumming battery resources, unless there's a [service](http://developer.android.com/reference/android/app/Service.html) running, which is not always the case.
So, pressing `Home` or `Back` buttons has in practice the same effect on memory usage. Android is designed to manage RAM itself, and it's not a good idea to kill apps unless you really know what you're doing.
Many people start having problems when use many apps that run services in background. Some services tend to stay always in memory performing some task (like keeping you online, checking for new messages etc.). This costs more resources (memory and battery), and if your phone is slow everytime, it's a good idea to check which services are running and maybe uninstall some of them (you can see them in `Configurations/Applications/Running services`).
If you want to learn more things about that, you should take a look at this post: <http://android-developers.blogspot.com.br/2010/04/multitasking-android-way.html>
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_4: The answer is simple: Do not close apps when possible!
[Android takes care of app managemnt](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/22/440) by leaving them stick around (which is not necessary in memory) when possibile allowing faster startup times and resumption where you left. [Swiping out a app of the recent app list is similar too closing it, but not the same.](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/20663/440)
Upvotes: 3 |
2012/09/06 | 1,482 | 5,615 | <issue_start>username_0: In the area where I live I sometimes have trouble with reception. The Internet stops working for me or it takes time to load pages. The phone tries and tries to connect.
It seems to me that when this is happening it depletes the battery much more quickly. Is my observation correct?<issue_comment>username_1: Yes, it does cost you more power.
The transceiver circuit is engineered with power saving in mind and will reduce sending power as much as possible if the reception is good. This also reduces the SAR value which is a measurement for exposure of the human body to radiation.
If the reception is bad sending signal strength has to be adjusted accordingly.
Additionally:
The underlying protocols are also designed to retransmit packages in case of a corrupted transmission. This might have an extra impact on your battery too.
Upvotes: 4 <issue_comment>username_2: Cell signal
-----------
To add to username_1's answer: You can check that for yourself. If you take a look at your battery stats (they are always at a little different place in the system menu: Sometimes in the main menu, other times under *phone info*), it lists the apps which used most of your battery. One of the highest consumers in there is most likely your display -- and close to it you'll find an item *cell standby* (sometimes called *phone standby*). This describes how much battery was used to "keep the signal". Check that in times of good reception versus those of bad reception and see how much it differs.
Network stuff
-------------
This can even be "multiplied" if you have many apps running services to poll information from the net permanently -- like email apps using [IMAP idle](http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IMAP_IDLE), or some social chat app keeping a push connection. It looks like the same is happening here: it tries hard to keep the connection, and thus pushes the cell radio further. Due to the bad reception, the connection gets slow, and those services keep longer "wake locks" (keeping the CPU alive to complete their task), which again eats battery.
How to find out if your reception was good?
-------------------------------------------
The system does in fact provide this information (at least from Android 2.3/Gingerbread on), in the very same battery statistics mentioned before. On top of the first page you find a small graph[1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RMV5d.png): tap on it, it brings up a bigger one[2](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFsMX.png).
 
The screenshots are in German, but you still can tell the details: In the first[1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RMV5d.png), you see the *cell standby* titled "Mobilfunk-Standby" right next to the Display, as said before. On top of that is mentioned "mini-graph". That tapped brings you to the page where you find the second image[2](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TFsMX.png) at the bottom. Here take a look at the first graph, titled *Telefonsignal* (*phone signal*). "The greener the cleaner": A bright green means "good reception" (the screenshot shows this at the begin and end, that is here: morning and evening -- so at home I have good reception). Getting yellowish: "Moderate reception". This uses more energy: compare it with the graph on top of it (not in the screenshot -- but the same as in the first screenshot), and you see the bar is almost flat where the *cell signal* is good -- but falls faster where it's not. See the little red spots: "no reception". And phone will power-up like crazy to find a new cell tower...
How to find out ***where*** the dead spots are?
-----------------------------------------------
Here we need to use 3rd party tools. I will mention two of them here: [No Signal Alert](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.smartandroidapps.missedcall)[3](https://i.stack.imgur.com/y3FLy.jpg) and [OpenSignalMaps](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.staircase3.opensignal)[4](https://i.stack.imgur.com/p19LC.jpg). Both can alert you when entering a "dead zone":
 
*No Signal Alert* lets you view a log of cell state changes, plus can show you a map of where the dead zones were[3](https://i.stack.imgur.com/y3FLy.jpg). *OpenSignalMaps* has the plus of showing you all cell towers in reach[4](https://i.stack.imgur.com/p19LC.jpg), pointing out which you are connected to. It also offers you a "compass" giving the direction to the strongest signal.
How to automatically deal with those *dead zones*?
--------------------------------------------------
There are some little helpers available which watch your signal. If it drops or gets lost, they simply switch the radio off (so it cannot further power up searching a non-existing signal) -- and periodically activate it again to check whether the situation has improved. One of them is [Battery Saver](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=androidcap.batterysaver)[5](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pGPGa.jpg), which also lets you define profiles so you can easily switch other things like Wifi. Then there are more powerful "automaters" like e.g. [GreenPower free battery saver](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.gpo.greenpower)[6](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Vb6p.jpg), which even manage a lot more. And these two are not the only ones...
 
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer] |
2012/09/07 | 871 | 2,750 | <issue_start>username_0: Do any good file servers exist for Android that do not require root? Ideally, it'd be nice to just be able to have an SMB share, but the only app I was able to find for this ([Samba Filesharing](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.funkyfresh.samba&hl=en)) requires root.
I'm currently using FTPDroid, but it's pretty slow (I'm getting about 200 KB/s downloads on my n600 wifi). Are there any better options?
I'm using a Verizon Galaxy S3.<issue_comment>username_1: There are tons of alternatives. Find a list of FTPServers in [this German thread](http://www.androidpit.de/de/android/forum/thread/438381/) ([Google Translate version](http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.androidpit.de%2Fde%2Fandroid%2Fforum%2Fthread%2F438381%2F)), others like WebDAV and Samba can be found [here](http://www.androidpit.de/de/android/forum/thread/438399/) (again: [Google Translate version](http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.androidpit.de%2Fde%2Fandroid%2Fforum%2Fthread%2F438399%2F)).
I'd say you could give [FTPServer](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=lutey.FTPServer) a try, sounds promising. No root mentiones, highly rated.
Alternatively, you might want to try [DoMobile FTP share](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.domobile.ftpshare) (very small: less than 30 kB!) or their new app [eShare](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.domobile.eshare). Meanwhile I even managed to locate [SwiFTP](http://ppareit.github.com/swiftp/) again (somebody continues the project, finally!), which should be fast and lightweight.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: I use [SSHDroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=berserker.android.apps.sshdroid), which doesn't require root (although if you have root, it will take advantage of it). This has the dual advantage that it can not only be used for file transfers (using SFTP), but since it's an SSH server, it also allows you to open a remote shell on your phone. I usually get ~1Mbps via WiFi.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: I suggest you to try [Servers Ultimate](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.icecoldapps.serversultimate).
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_4: If all you want to do is access your device from a Computer, my favourite app is [AirDroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sand.airdroid). Allows you to browse files file a lot more. Doesn't require root. I've found that I can get 1.5 / 2mb/s on a busy network
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_5: I created [WiFi FTP Server](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.medhaapps.wififtpserver) for this purpose.
Upvotes: -1 |
2012/09/07 | 191 | 799 | <issue_start>username_0: Is there away to make my phone stop beeping when I get a Facebook message if I'm already on Facebook on a different computer?<issue_comment>username_1: In my experience, if you reply on a PC to the person who is sending you the messages, the notifications will be silent on your phone. Other than that, it doesn't seem to be currently possible.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: >
> Is there away to make my phone stop beeping when I get a Facebook message *if I'm already on Facebook on a different computer?*
>
>
>
Emphasis mine. No, there is currently no way for the Facebook app to only send you messages when the phone is the only device connected. The only option you have is shutting of certain kinds of notifications completely.
Upvotes: 1 [selected_answer] |
2012/09/07 | 478 | 1,263 | <issue_start>username_0: Which version of Android is running on the recently announced Kindle Fire HD, Amazon seems to fail to mention that detail in the specifications they list for [Kindle Fire HD](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B0083PWAPW)<issue_comment>username_1: [Amazon confirms Kindle Fire HD models use Android 4.0 under the hood](http://www.engadget.com/2012/09/06/amazon-confirms-kindle-fire-hd-models-use-android-4-0/).
Upvotes: 5 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: By [this comparison](http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-19736_7-57507776-251/kindle-fire-hd-vs-nexus-7-which-one-is-right-for-you/) between Kindle Fire HD 7" and Nexus 7 done by CNET, it uses a **custom Android 4.0 version**.
Scroll down to the comparison table to see it
From the [official product page](http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0083PWAWU/ref=amb_link_1?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=gateway-center-column&pf_rd_r=0ZR13K3QGGTBSJH0X7V6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=324600507&pf_rd_i=468294), there's no corroborating information about it.
Upvotes: 3 <issue_comment>username_3: Amazon confirms ICS is running the Kindle Fire HD. For more infos follow this
[blogpost](http://androidcommunity.com/amazon-confirms-ics-is-running-the-kindle-fire-hd-20120906/)
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/07 | 729 | 2,707 | <issue_start>username_0: I bought one of these simple cheap Chinese no-name tablets: HDMI, Bluetooth, HD display, dual-core CPU. Unfortunately, it came without official Google apps such as Market and Gmail. I tried different ways to install these apps. Every time I got a Force Close error.
I'm using Ubuntu as my workstation and looked with adb for the device. Found one, good! The command `lsusb` gives me
```
Bus 001 Device 031: ID 18d1:4e22 Google Inc. Nexus S (debug)
```
I've tried obtaining root access on this device, without any success. Information about the hardware is attached as a screenshot, made with Quadrant Benchmark.

I have tried these tools:
* SuperOneClick
* UniversalAndroot
* EasyRootICS
BusyBox is installed but without su. Cannot remount /system, because its not permitted.
Cannot login with adb root, it fails with the following message
```
> adbd cannot run as root in production builds
```<issue_comment>username_1: If you don't know what device you have, it's hard to get any assistance.
Without any warranties of success, and without assuming any responsability by what may happen to your device, I can suggest that you visit [UnlockRoot](http://unlockroot.com/), known to work with tons of devices, may became a solution for yours.
The process is done with [three steps](http://unlockroot.com/guide.html):
>
> 1. Your device must be in USB Debugging mode. Turn it on, go to Settings-> Applications-> Development and check the box.([Look Here](http://www.unlockroot.com/guide/guide.htm))
> 2. Connect your device to your PC, Run UnlockRoot.exe.
> 3. Click "Unlock Root", enjoy!
>
>
>
And it's [reported](http://unlockroot.com/help.html) to work quiet well, see last entry labeled "What are the Risks of Rooting?".
The [FAQ](http://unlockroot.com/faq.html) section is also quiet useful.
Read the documentation from the website and proceed at your own risk.
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_2: You will really struggle finding a way to root a tablet running ICS, especially a 'no brand' one.
I have had the same issue with an Arnova Gbook.
Unfortunately, the answer to your question is that it would be very difficult, and maybe even impossible, unless a *new* ICS root exploit comes out, as Google patched the main one in Android 4.0.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_3: try using VROOT, i've purchased a unbanded phone, (actually locally branded). Using VROOT i was able to get it rooted, now i am looking for a method to install CWM Recovery, and you just gave me a idea.. Thanks and i hope it works for you too !!
Upvotes: 0 |
2012/09/07 | 578 | 2,127 | <issue_start>username_0: My daughter loves to share videos on YouTube with her friends. As a result she's blown through her monthly 2GB data allotment on multiple occasions.
While I've educated her on the difference between 3G and Wi-Fi, and she's a smart kid, it would simply be easier if I could limit her YouTube app to only allow streaming while on Wi-Fi.
I looked in the app settings but unless it's in some weird location there is no such setting. How can I prevent YouTube streaming to be only allowed on Wi-Fi?
(If it matters: Droid Incredible 2, Gingerbread)<issue_comment>username_1: Don't know of any YouTube option for that end, but if you are open to use an app to limit other apps, you can give a go to [Onavo Count | Monitor Data](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.onavo.android.onavoid "Google Play Store app page") that has an option to limit the app to Wi-Fi only:
>
> Save money on your mobile bill - avoid costly overage fees! Onavo Count puts you in control of your 3G data plan. Easy setup, three brand new widgets, tailored alerts and automatic blocking tools will keep you safe from bloated data bills.
>
>
>
**Update September 2016**:
It looks like Onavo Count is no longer compatible with some modern Android devices including devices like Nexus 6P. Onavo has a new "Protect Free VPN+Data Manager", which still has the above functionality in addition to some cool VPN features.

Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: [avast! Mobile Security](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.avast.android.mobilesecurity) has, in addition to multiple layers of protection, a firewall module that allows individual control of each application with toggling of Wi-Fi/data/roaming access.
Onavo also works great as mentioned but doesn't have the other features that Avast has.
Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: No Root Firewall can restrict cellular access on per app basis
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=app.greyshirts.firewall>
Upvotes: -1 |
2012/09/07 | 1,151 | 3,693 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm looking for an Android e-mail client that connects to a hosted Exchange 2010 server via [Exchange Web Services](http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/exchange/dd877045%28v=exchg.140%29.aspx) (EWS). I know there are several mail apps (including the stock mail client) that can work with Exchange through ActiveSync and/or WebDAV, but my server supports neither of these.<issue_comment>username_1: [JWebServices for Exchange](http://www.independentsoft.de/jwebservices) is Java API for Microsoft Exchange 2007/2010/2013 and Office 365. The API offers complete Exchange Web Services functionality including the ability to create/update/move/copy items and folders, search items and folders, send messages, send meetings requests and more. Supports JDK 1.5+ and Android 1.6+.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: You can use Microsoft's EWS API which is Open Source for Android by doing the following steps:
1. download the source code available in the URL: <http://archive.msdn.microsoft.com/ewsjavaapi>
**EWSJavaAPI\_1.1.5.zip**
2. Make the changes to above API to work for JDK 1.4 in Eclipse like remove override annotations, etc.
3. Download source code of javax.\* package available in below URL
<http://www.java2s.com/Code/Jar/j/Downloadjsr17310srcjar.htm>
**jsr173\_1.0\_src.jar.zip**
4. Download source code of stax API available in below URL,
<http://dist.codehaus.org/stax/distributions>
**stax-src-1.2.0.zip**
5. Keep all the sources under the single Java project in Eclipse
6. Open the project explorer and select the package which are starts with "**javax**" and rename to your company name (e.g., **com**). *Note:* Eclipse will ask for all the naming contexts will change then click OK.
7. Export all the Java sources to one single jar file.
8. Then You good to go to use the jar in Android application with out any problems.
I used the same way explained above and it worked in Android application 100% perfectly.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_3: Here's what I've found:
* [AquaMail](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.kman.AquaMail)
+ "Support for standard Internet email protocols: IMAP, POP3, SMTP; Exchange: **EWS**" ([reference](http://www1.mobisystems.com/aqua-mail/))
* [Blue Mail](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=me.bluemail.mail)
+ "Support for … Exchange (ActiveSync, **EWS**, 365)"
+ cloud-involved
* [Email TypeApp](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.trtf.blue)
+ "Supporting … all Exchange protocols including **Exchange Web Services (EWS)**"
+ probably cloud-involved
* [MailCal for Exchange](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.devsite.mailcal)
+ "email and calendar client that uses **EWS**/OWA/Webmail"
* [MailDroid](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.maildroid)
+ various forum postings discuss EWS support
* [MobiMail](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=app.Appstervan.MobiMail)
+ "**Exchange Web Services (EWS)** is required on the Exchange server"
* [Newton Mail](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.cloudmagic.mail)
+ "Supports Calendar for Gmail, Google Apps, and Exchange (**EWS**)"
+ cloud-involved
* [Stack Mail](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.squash.mail), a.k.a. Ginger Mail, a.k.a. Squash Mail
+ "Please make sure that **EWS (Exchange Web Services)** is enabled on your Exchange server"
+ [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/Android/comments/4e25bm/looks_like_google_is_refunding_purchases_of_stack/) says Google was refunding purchases
Honorable mention:
* AOL Alto - [discontinued November 9, 2017](https://www.androidauthority.com/aol-alto-email-app-discontinued-809867/)
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/08 | 375 | 1,487 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a Samsung Galaxy Ace GTS 5830i.
I somehow messed up the power button of my phone and now after the battery drained completely, It will not start.
I tried looking up online for going into recovery mode (without using the power button) i.e keeping home key pressed while inserting the charging but nothing works. Finally, I thought I must have an option to boot up my phone through Eclipse DDMS but I cant find any option there either ([See screenshot](http://screencast.com/t/Sb7AkoAN))
Please help.
---
EDIT : Thanks to the answer by Sparx, I have solved this problem. Connect the phone via USB to your computer. If you have installed the Android SDK, go in the android-tools folder and execute adb devices (if on a mac, run ./adb devices)
If your devices shows up in the list run ./adb reboot<issue_comment>username_1: Have you tried plugging in the charger? or else plugging in the charger and while plugged in, remove and then re-insert battery. Some phones tend to start up in that manner.
Also if you can connect via adb (even if your phone is powered down), the `adb devices` followed by `adb reboot` ought to start your phone. If you're rooted, there are apps like Quick Reboot that allow you to reboot to Recovery or Download mode with a tap, provided you have CWM.
Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: You need to first plug your phone then insert the battery. I have followed this on my HTC Desire phone.
Upvotes: -1 |
2012/09/08 | 899 | 2,922 | <issue_start>username_0: I installed CyanogenMod 10 Nightlies on my Galaxy S1, coming from CyanogenMod 9.
On every reboot I get the message:
>
> **Warning!** A problem was detected with your device. Your device IMEI number is invalid. And invalid IMEI number could cause network issues including the inability to call emergency numbers.
>
>
>
Sometimes I have network issues and my handy just won't connect to the Internet(even though it shows E/H Connection)
I once made a backup of my `/efs/` partition, I already restored it but the message still appears.<issue_comment>username_1: Just flash your device with official firmware. It may be a problem with the CyanogenMod 10 nightly builds, not your device.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: FYI
===

The CyanogenMod 10 is the first update with the code to detect an invalid IMEI.
You could already have an invalid IMEI and don't know about it.
The issue with an invalid IMEI is that you may have emergency calling problems (inability to do emergency calls).
Confirm IMEI
============
Does the IMEI reported match the number under your battery?
Dial `*#06#` and the IMEI will be presented on your screen.
Possible Solution
=================
From [this code.google.com](http://code.google.com/p/sgscm10/issues/detail?id=135 "link to thread") thread, the user at [comment 5](http://code.google.com/p/sgscm10/issues/detail?id=135#c5 "link to comment #5") managed to solve the issue:
>
> Steps I took to solve the problem:
>
>
> 1. Flash my phone by Odin to version 2.2.1
> 2. Update to CM9 using Recovery with stabile version od CM9
> <http://download.cyanogenmod.com/get/jenkins/5805/cm-9.0.0-galaxysmtd.zip>
> 3. Update to CM10 using last version of kernel.
>
> I used cm-10-20120822-NIGHTLY-galaxysmtd.
>
>
> Between steps I did wipe data/factory reset and wipe cache partition. Now my IMEI is correct.
>
>
> After cleaning the phone and updates do CM10 I recommend installing gapps-jb-20120726-signed, because your phone will be clean as a baby after birth.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: This is usually caused by a wrong/corrupted/replaced `/efs/nv_data.bin`.
If you have a backup of /efs
============================
It is likely, that some ROM installer created one for you.
If you have a backup of the `/efs` folder on your SD-Card then it's safe to simply copy the files from the backup to `/efs`:
```
adb shell # open a shell
su # become root
cd /sdcard/backup/efs # change directory to the backup
cp -r * /efs # copy the backup to /efs
```
This should restore your IMEI back to the factory value.
If you don't have a backup of /efs
==================================
Then you have to go with [Zuul's answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/28969/440).
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/08 | 849 | 2,742 | <issue_start>username_0: I have a phone with a touch-screen malfunction, I want to run applications on it from my computer, connected by USB. Is that possible?
I've tried applications like <http://mymobiler.com>, but that has failed me (I can see the screen, it's not responsive).
Sadly, I have ADB turned off, so I cannot use applications like the android screencast, or DroidExplorer.<issue_comment>username_1: Just flash your device with official firmware. It may be a problem with the CyanogenMod 10 nightly builds, not your device.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: FYI
===

The CyanogenMod 10 is the first update with the code to detect an invalid IMEI.
You could already have an invalid IMEI and don't know about it.
The issue with an invalid IMEI is that you may have emergency calling problems (inability to do emergency calls).
Confirm IMEI
============
Does the IMEI reported match the number under your battery?
Dial `*#06#` and the IMEI will be presented on your screen.
Possible Solution
=================
From [this code.google.com](http://code.google.com/p/sgscm10/issues/detail?id=135 "link to thread") thread, the user at [comment 5](http://code.google.com/p/sgscm10/issues/detail?id=135#c5 "link to comment #5") managed to solve the issue:
>
> Steps I took to solve the problem:
>
>
> 1. Flash my phone by Odin to version 2.2.1
> 2. Update to CM9 using Recovery with stabile version od CM9
> <http://download.cyanogenmod.com/get/jenkins/5805/cm-9.0.0-galaxysmtd.zip>
> 3. Update to CM10 using last version of kernel.
>
> I used cm-10-20120822-NIGHTLY-galaxysmtd.
>
>
> Between steps I did wipe data/factory reset and wipe cache partition. Now my IMEI is correct.
>
>
> After cleaning the phone and updates do CM10 I recommend installing gapps-jb-20120726-signed, because your phone will be clean as a baby after birth.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: This is usually caused by a wrong/corrupted/replaced `/efs/nv_data.bin`.
If you have a backup of /efs
============================
It is likely, that some ROM installer created one for you.
If you have a backup of the `/efs` folder on your SD-Card then it's safe to simply copy the files from the backup to `/efs`:
```
adb shell # open a shell
su # become root
cd /sdcard/backup/efs # change directory to the backup
cp -r * /efs # copy the backup to /efs
```
This should restore your IMEI back to the factory value.
If you don't have a backup of /efs
==================================
Then you have to go with [Zuul's answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/28969/440).
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/08 | 948 | 3,149 | <issue_start>username_0: My HTC Incredible (Verizon) has tried to update to either Ice Cream Sandwich (android 4.0.x) or just build # 4.x (I'm not sure which) for the past two weeks or so. Either way, it has not been succesful.
Sometimes I'll get a notification telling me that the update has been downloaded, and asks me whether I wan't to reboot to install. I tried that a bunch of times, but neither time did it even shut down after the ten second delay/grace period. Once I tried going to Settings > About Phone > System updates, and downloaded the update and tried to install, but the same thing happened: ten second countdown, then nothing.
Now, the notification never pops up, and Settings > About Phone > System updates indicates that no new updates are out. What's happening?
Thanks!<issue_comment>username_1: Just flash your device with official firmware. It may be a problem with the CyanogenMod 10 nightly builds, not your device.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: FYI
===

The CyanogenMod 10 is the first update with the code to detect an invalid IMEI.
You could already have an invalid IMEI and don't know about it.
The issue with an invalid IMEI is that you may have emergency calling problems (inability to do emergency calls).
Confirm IMEI
============
Does the IMEI reported match the number under your battery?
Dial `*#06#` and the IMEI will be presented on your screen.
Possible Solution
=================
From [this code.google.com](http://code.google.com/p/sgscm10/issues/detail?id=135 "link to thread") thread, the user at [comment 5](http://code.google.com/p/sgscm10/issues/detail?id=135#c5 "link to comment #5") managed to solve the issue:
>
> Steps I took to solve the problem:
>
>
> 1. Flash my phone by Odin to version 2.2.1
> 2. Update to CM9 using Recovery with stabile version od CM9
> <http://download.cyanogenmod.com/get/jenkins/5805/cm-9.0.0-galaxysmtd.zip>
> 3. Update to CM10 using last version of kernel.
>
> I used cm-10-20120822-NIGHTLY-galaxysmtd.
>
>
> Between steps I did wipe data/factory reset and wipe cache partition. Now my IMEI is correct.
>
>
> After cleaning the phone and updates do CM10 I recommend installing gapps-jb-20120726-signed, because your phone will be clean as a baby after birth.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_3: This is usually caused by a wrong/corrupted/replaced `/efs/nv_data.bin`.
If you have a backup of /efs
============================
It is likely, that some ROM installer created one for you.
If you have a backup of the `/efs` folder on your SD-Card then it's safe to simply copy the files from the backup to `/efs`:
```
adb shell # open a shell
su # become root
cd /sdcard/backup/efs # change directory to the backup
cp -r * /efs # copy the backup to /efs
```
This should restore your IMEI back to the factory value.
If you don't have a backup of /efs
==================================
Then you have to go with [Zuul's answer](https://android.stackexchange.com/a/28969/440).
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/08 | 319 | 1,378 | <issue_start>username_0: I have an AT&T Samsung Galaxy 2 and have had a sporadic problem: A person calls me, my phone doesn't ring, kicks them over to voice mail, doesn't show as a missed call, and then the voice mail shows up on my phone as much as an hour later. I have tested this from my land line and sometimes the phone does everything it's supposed to and other times doesn't ring and doesn't log a missed call but records a voice mail.<issue_comment>username_1: This is probably because you do not have a good reception when the phone call happens. If you have a good reception but is still not getting the call, contact your operator; standard voice mail is managed by your operator not the phone (that's why you can still get a voice mail even when the phone is turned-off/out-of-service-area, but it won't show in missed calls, which is managed by the phone itself).
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: I had the same issue. You will have to change your phone notification settings. Go to "settings," then "call", then "phone settings" under "other call settings." Scroll all the way to the bottom of the call setting screen and select "phone notification preview" (To show caller ID for missed calls and voicemails on locked screen and status bar).
Most likely, you downloaded an app on your phone that adjusted your phone settings. I hope this helps.
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/08 | 730 | 2,598 | <issue_start>username_0: I have Galaxy Nexus with JB. I got stock browser on it and Chrome and I also installed Firefox just to keep it there since I'm a developer and I can test stuff on all three.
But the question I'm having is, what happens if I set a particular browser as "always" when it asks me which one I'd like to use? I keep pressing "just once" because I don't know hot would I change it later if I desire to do so?
1. Is it possible to change/reset this later? How?
2. Does "always" set it as default just for that particular app that's redirecting to browser or does it set OS-wide?<issue_comment>username_1: On the Kindle Fire (Gingerbread), I go into Settings > Applications > Third Party Applications and select Dolphin Browser, my usual default browser. There is a Clear Defaults button on Dolphin's page. That button un-defaults my browser and restores the question.
I would expect you'd have to do something similar - use system-settings for a given application - to undo it's default-ness.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: If you can not find an appropriate setting on your device, you may have another app take care for that. There are some on the playstore addressing exactly your problem, e.g.: [DefaultApp Reset](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=pxlib.android.defaultappset)[1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZsIc4.jpg) explicitly states *This will work on android 1.5-2.3.3+ & 3.0-3.2+ & 4.0-4.0.3+ & 4.1+*, [Default App Manager](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.appiator.defaultappmanager)[2](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zN2h.jpg) does not explicitly state (but is free, so you could check).
 
To your second question: It's rather system-wide for the same action. For example, if you open an audio file from the file manager, and select the player for "always" -- this will also be used if you select an audio file from, say, the browser. A second screenshot[3](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hVh6y.jpg) from the *Default App Manager* app may be helpful to understand this part:

Upvotes: 2 <issue_comment>username_3: Disabling the default action for an intent is easy enough to do on ICS.
1. From the launcher, press the menu button, and choose `Manage apps`.
2. Select the app that you chose as the default for the action.
3. Scroll down and touch `Clear defaults`.

Upvotes: 3 [selected_answer] |
2012/09/09 | 264 | 1,141 | <issue_start>username_0: I have the SyncMe app, and I would like to have a widget activating a fuction in the app.
Now I have to open the app -> Click on a button -> Click on another button.
Can I have a widget doing this by just clicking it?<issue_comment>username_1: **In short**, you can't.
Only the application can interact with itself internally, unless an API was created for that end. External applications aren't able to know what to do in order to follow your desired "path".
The best you could achieve is opening the application, but you still needed to manually tap the buttons.
**My recommendation:**
I believe you are trying to have some sort of "Sync Now" functionality without having to open the application and clicking some buttons to achieve that. Either case, Email the developer and request such widget, I'm sure it's useful enough and interest will arise.
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer]<issue_comment>username_2: Working on it, you will have a shortcut in the next release of Syncme. Not a widget, gone through all the source code of the Android music app widget to figure out that will be an overkill :)
Upvotes: 2 |
2012/09/09 | 1,237 | 4,133 | <issue_start>username_0: I'm getting the alert "Phone storage space is getting low". Here is my Samsung Galaxy S running Cyanogenmod 9's space status:
```
Name: Cache
Path: /cache
SIZE: 17.50MB
USED: 2.47MB
FREE: 15.02MB
Name: Data
Path: /data
SIZE: 1889.83MB
USED: 576.64MB
FREE: 1313.19MB
Name: SD-card
Path: /sdcard
SIZE: 5654.56MB
USED: 2011.00MB
FREE: 3643.56MB
Name: System
Path: /system
SIZE: 250.00MB
USED: 240.23MB
FREE: 9.76MB
```
You'd think it's /system, but /system has been like that forever. In fact, after installing cyanogen it only had 1mb free. I actually deleted some system apps (wallpaper crap mostly) to free up a little more.
I am not asking how to get rid of the alert. I want to know **which specific storage space does the alert refer to?**<issue_comment>username_1: You can eliminate `/system` from your list: It is mounted read-only, and (usually) never changes (except when flashin a ROM or applying an OTA).
We can also eliminate `/sdcard` as possible candidate, for multiple reasons: First, it still has 2 GB free space available. Second, Android devices should also work without an SD card inserted. And third, plus most directly clear: The error message says "**Phone** storage", not "External storage" or simply "Storage".
Which leaves us with the other two candidates (if your above list is complete).
Usually, this alert refers to `/data` (or `/data/data`, if that's a separate partition). Reason: `/data` is where your apps store their data, and also where apps are installed -- so here the activities take place: Installing and using apps. Don't be confused by the "relative value" (about 30% free space). It's rather the absolute value which counts (here: 1,313 MB). Considering that some devices ship with less than this available altogether (e.g. HTC Buzz), this should be sufficient free space, and thus not trigger such an alert.
Which would leave us with `/cache` as the most likely candidate here.
You can ensure this by deleting some caches (you can do so from *Applications → Manage Applications* and walking through the apps, hitting "clear cache" for each one that has caches -- or use some helper app which does this for you, like e.g. [App Cache Cleaner](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mobi.infolife.cache) or [Easy Cache Cleaner](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.bazinga.cacheclean). If this makes the error disappear, it was `/cache` triggering it -- otherwise it could only be `/data`.
Upvotes: 1 <issue_comment>username_2: It is usually `/datadata` that gets full on the Galaxy S. Interestingly this partition is not displayed in the `Storage` Setting Menu. The quirk is that /datadata is mounted on a special very fast flash chip that only provides 170MiB of storage space.
While this was enough in the "early days" of Android when the Galaxy S was released, it can easly become tight with modern Apps. `/datadata` is used to store application *user* data, and while many apps only place a few KiB there, some apps require to store more. Typical candidates that store around 20MiB in `/datadata` are Google Chrome and Google Currents.
[ATM the best practice is a fix that lets you control which apps can store data on the fast chip and which are outsourced to the slower RAM.](http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1665742) This script can also be installed with an app called [datafix](https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=by.zatta.datafix).
To find the apps that consume the most space use `su && du -s /datadata/* |sort -gr |head`. For example on my device:
```
shell@android:/datadata # su && du -s /datadata/* |sort -gr |head
39180 /datadata/com.android.chrome
20809 /datadata/com.google.android.apps.currents
16763 /datadata/com.google.earth
9431 /datadata/com.google.android.apps.plus
8938 /datadata/com.inisoft.mediaplayer.a
8270 /datadata/com.google.android.apps.maps
3015 /datadata/com.google.android.apps.docs
2160 /datadata/udk.android.reader
2096 /datadata/com.android.providers.contacts
1597 /datadata/com.fsck.k9
```
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |
2012/09/09 | 802 | 3,280 | <issue_start>username_0: When I move my applications to the the sd card using the "Move To SD Card" feature in ICS the widgets for particular application stop working it says "Problem loading widget".Does anyone know a solution to this? or do I just have to keep the application in the internal memory for the widgets to work?,<issue_comment>username_1: As you've guessed, your widgets, live wallpaper etc won't work once you move them to SD card. If you're rooted you can use solutions like link2sd and data2sd which creates an extra partition in your SD card to move your app or part of the app.
Upvotes: 0 <issue_comment>username_2: There are some technical reasons explained on the [Android developers website](http://developer.android.com/guide/topics/data/install-location.html#ShouldNot) that justify why the widget may have stopped working:
Any of this ones aren't recommended to move to an External Storage due to possible failure:
* **Services**
>
> Your running Service will be killed and will not be restarted when external storage is remounted. You can, however, register for the ACTION\_EXTERNAL\_APPLICATIONS\_AVAILABLE broadcast Intent, which will notify your application when applications installed on external storage have become available to the system again. At which time, you can restart your Service.
>
>
>
* **Alarm Services**
>
> Your alarms registered with AlarmManager will be cancelled. You must manually re-register any alarms when external storage is remounted.
>
>
>
* **Input Method Engines**
>
> Your IME will be replaced by the default IME. When external storage is remounted, the user can open system settings to enable your IME again.
>
>
>
* **Live Wallpapers**
>
> Your running Live Wallpaper will be replaced by the default Live Wallpaper. When external storage is remounted, the user can select your Live Wallpaper again.
>
>
>
* **App Widgets**
>
> Your App Widget will be removed from the home screen. When external storage is remounted, your App Widget will not be available for the user to select until the system resets the home application (usually not until a system reboot).
>
>
>
* **Account Managers**
>
> Your accounts created with AccountManager will disappear until external storage is remounted.
>
>
>
* **Sync Adapters**
>
> Your AbstractThreadedSyncAdapter and all its sync functionality will not work until external storage is remounted.
>
>
>
* **Device Administrators**
>
> Your DeviceAdminReceiver and all its admin capabilities will be disabled, which can have unforeseeable consequences for the device functionality, which may persist after external storage is remounted.
>
>
>
* **Broadcast Receivers listening for "boot completed"**
>
> The system delivers the ACTION\_BOOT\_COMPLETED broadcast before the external storage is mounted to the device. If your application is installed on the external storage, it can never receive this broadcast.
>
>
>
* **Copy Protection**
>
> Your application cannot be installed to a device's SD card if it uses Google Play's Copy Protection feature. However, if you use Google Play's Application Licensing instead, your application can be installed to internal or external storage, including SD cards.
>
>
>
Upvotes: 4 [selected_answer] |